Download Report

INTERVIEW:
JOERN KLUGE, CEO
MT.DERM GMBH
(GERMANY)
JOERN KLUGE, CEO MT.DERM
GMBH (GERMANY)
For how many brands in the
world do you provide your
products (except AMIEA)?
It is true that we supply many
different products as private label
through our partners. We do
keep the names and numbers
for ourselves but we can confirm
that as of today we are providing
products for more than 40
countries.
Which of your business
directions do you consider
the most promising and fast
growing?
There are several market
segments that we have invested
into. This relates to the permanent
make-up market, the tattoo
industry, the medical market,
drug delivery market as well as
permanent make-up franchise
systems in Asia. All of these
markets have their fascinations
and promises.
What market in your opinion is
the most promising from the
business point of view – tattoo
or micropigmentation?
These markets are very different.
Both have their own advantages
and disadvantages. The
micropigmentation market is a
small niche market and we have
obtained our market leadership
through many years of research &
development of products as well
as knowledge about training.
The tattoo market is much larger.
We have been in the body tattoo
market for only five years. It is our
objective to become the #1 com-
PERMANENT MAKE-UP #1
pany in this field. In both markets –
however – market leadership can
only be obtained through the best
products which meet the requirements of the users to the full extent. Relating to quality, precision
and longevity of the products.
Why do you think that the
micropigmentation market is
smaller than the tattoo market? Permanent make-up
for eyebrows and lips may
be required for any woman,
whereas a tattoo is not at all
necessary.
| WWW.PERMANENT-MAGAZINE.COM
I agree that the micropigmentation
market still has a huge potential.
Micropigmentation is for everyone.
However, the numbers show us,
that the tattoo market today is
larger. In Western Europe 12% of
the population have tattoos. In the
US it is 15%. In some age groups
even up to 30%. Including men
and women. While the very large
majority for micropigmentation
procedures is women.
And yet do you suppose that in
the near future, say 10 years,
113
INTERVIEW
| JOERN KLUGE
the micropigmentation market
will exceed the tattoo market?
This will depend on the consumer
and the micropigmenation artists.
There is still a lot of bad work done
which is negatively influencing
the market size. One day training
classes and cheap and unsafe
products are limiting the growth of
the market. Artists need a good
training and precise and safe
products.
Are you dealing with numerous
counterfeits of your products
all around the world? In what
way?
Indeed, in some parts of the
world counterfeit products have
appeared. Especially through
online shops technicians are
sometimes deceived by fraudulent
offers. And also we have seen
some small companies which
started with counterfeit products.
Technicians have to know that
the counterfeit products lack
the precision and quality. On the
needles cartridges, there is an
additional risk. The counterfeit
needle cartridges do not have
a membrane to protect the
handpiece from the backflow
of contaminated liquids. Our
cartridges prevent cross
contamination and, for example,
the transmission of Hepatitis
C which is one of the major
contamination risks.
How many owners there are
for MT.Derm company?
I have 4 partners in the company.
What were you in before you
founded the company in 1998?
I was a student at university. The
opportunity to found MT.DERM
was introduced to me by my father
who owns a needle manufacturing
company.
Your father runs a
micropigmentation needle
manufacturing company?
My father is founder and CEO of
Feuerstein GmbH. Feuerstein
114
WWW.PERMANENT-MAGAZINE.COM
| PERMANENT MAKE-UP #1
JOERN KLUGE
| INTERVIEW
manufactures a large variety
of OEM needles especially for
surgery and sutures. Some of
them for MT.DERM. So our family
has a long history and experience
in needles. This fact has certainly
helped me in the success of the
company.
Do you produce
micropigmentation products
for other brands? If I want
to make pigments under my
brand, will you help me with it?
What are the requirements for
such customers?
In general, yes, we are a private
label manufacturer. However,
we are limiting ourselves since
we have already achieved a
considerable market share. We
decide upon the customer’s
strategy, the customer’s country
and our strategy.
What is your family doing?
Your wife, children? Do they
also work in MT.Derm?
Can you say it’s a family
business?
It is a family business! I’m fully
dedicated to MT.DERM. This
involves a lot of focus and a lot
of time. Thus I rely on my wife to
keep my back free at home. My
two kids are eight and four years
old. I enjoy helping them to be
successful in their lives and – of
course – I’m having a lot of fun
with them.
What are the requirements for
your distributors in different
countries? What is the most
important?
There are different requirements
for the different brands.
Micropigmentation is different
from Tattooing and is different
from the Medical Market. For
Micropigmentation we believe
that a training academy to train
beginners and advanced classes
is of highest importance.
Do you use some know-how
developed at MTDerm in your
micropigmentation products
(equipment, pigments, needles,
etc.)?
PERMANENT MAKE-UP #1
| WWW.PERMANENT-MAGAZINE.COM
115
INTERVIEW
We have filed more than 20
inventions as patents. Many
of them are granted and have
international filings. All of our
devices and disposables have
some patents which cover them.
Can you name top 5 countries
where the micropigmentation
and tattoo market is
developing at the highest
pace?
The fastest growth is certainly in
Asian countries. However, these
markets are not easy to reach for
us. Training is the most essential
as already discussed, and there
are cultural barriers which require
us to change the training and
marketing concept completely.
What makes the access to the
Asian market difficult?
skin and anatomy of the face. Our
trainers need to adapt to these
requirements, which takes a lot of
experience and time.
You have very few
representatives in the USA.
Why?
In the US we had licensed our
two basic patents in 2002 to our
representative. Thus only this
representative is selling there.
The representative has partnered
with us in defending the patents.
We just finished a case with the
international trade commission
where we could prevent
counterfeit products from entering
into the US.
Questions on pigments for
micropigmentation. How
different is the quality of
pigments at different price
levels? What makes this
difference? Let’s say, there
are pigments for $20-$30 per
1 Oz and pigments $100-$150
per 1 Oz. Does the higher price
always guarantee the highest
quality of the pigment?
There are many reasons. Just to
name a few: Micropigmentation
is done – with the exception of
very few stars – by low income
staff. This reduces the prices for
the services and in consequence
the willingness to buy high end
equipment. It will take time
A high price of a bottle is not
for quality awareness to build.
Another topic is the different ethnic necessarily an indication for
116
| JOERN KLUGE
quality. But the other way around it
is true: If the pigment color price is
very low, you can assume a lower
quality. A responsible manufacturer
will – for example – only use
ingredients of pharmaceutical
quality.
(EDITORIAL STAFF OPINION:
Just a note of fact: In the United
States, on the USDA Food,
Pharmaceutical, and Cosmetics
Approved Color Additives Chart
there is NO difference between
the Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic
grades with the exception of an
acid violet and a couple of Pythallo
Blues).
Also, it is a ‘safety plus’ if a
manufacturer is certified according
to ISO 9001 and 13485 (medical
standard). Additionally good
manufacturers invest into product
development and significant
testing before market release.
These safety aspects cannot be
achieved with the lowest cost.
WWW.PERMANENT-MAGAZINE.COM
Exclusively for PERMANENT
MAKE-UP MAGAZINE
| PERMANENT MAKE-UP #1