A Midsummer Dress
This customizable tutorial will walk you through sewing a mid-summer maxi dress for girls evoking
idyllic innocence.
The back closure can be completed with a long sash, buttons, or ribbon ties. The length can be modified
to create a shirt, mini or maxi dress.
For a floaty look, ideal fabrics include lightweight cotton substrates, particularly voile and lawn. Quilting
cottons would produce a more structured gown.
Materials:
Bodice: ¼ yard for just the bodice, up to ½ yard if you are making a long sash.
Body: ½ yard to ¾ yard
Other: thread, scissors, cutting mat, ruler, rotary cutter, water soluble pen or chalk, safety pin, chopstick,
fusible interfacing scrap (about 1 x 4 inches) buttons or button making kit, fabric scraps or ready-made bias trim
for making spaghetti straps, ribbon ties, button fasteners, etc.
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 1 Preparation, Sizing and Fabric Estimating Tips (this section includes directions for
pre-cutting your fabric):
Bodice: Measure the chest of the child you will be sewing for, the area just under the armpits is ideal.
Add 1.5 inches to this number. __
+ 1.5 = (X)
. From selvedge to selvedge, cut two strips of
fabric to the length of “B” and exactly 4.5 inches high.
For example, Two 4.5 inch high strips measuring the girth of your child’s chest plus 1.5 inches (for
my four year old that was 20.5 inches + 1.5 = 23 inches long; my 21 month old is 18.5” around + 1.5” =
20 inches)
Back Closure:
If using buttons (Version A), use a scrap of fabric to make bias button loop - cut on the bias a single
one inch wide 6-7 inches long fabric strip (additional scrap fabric needed for fabric covered buttons –
tutorial on Charm Stitch, we used ¾ inch buttons)
If using spaghetti strap ties (B) you will need to cut four 12 inch long x 1 inch wide ties from your
fabrics, we coordinated with the bodice print. You may also use pre-made bias trim of any convenient
width and color.
If making wide long sash ties (C) for the back closure please cut two more strips of 4.5 inches tall from
selvedge to selvedge (the entire width of your fabric). * these strips may be cut thinner and centered when the
time comes (step 11), if a more narrow sash is preferred.
Body (skirt): as long as you like, but something between 16 – 25 inches plus 1.5 inches for seam
allowance. I used 16 inches on the 21 month old and 25 inches for the 4 year old because she likes her
dresses princess length. This piece should be as wide as your fabric is from selvedge to selvedge.
Hopefully this is close to at least two times the girth of the wearer (20.5 inches wide x 2 – 41 inches
wide or more). Voile, for example is about 54 inches wide and worked well here even though it was
much wider than 41 inches. Note: on children over 5, the skirt will not be as full and floaty. Modifications can be
made by adding a panel(s) to the dress body fabric.
Arm Straps: Cut two 11 inch long x 2 inches wide strips for the arm/spaghetti straps (the straps could
be anywhere from 1.5 – 2.5 inches wide); if sewing for a child older than 7 please cut to 12-13 inches
long. Prepare these according to the directions found at “Button Loop and Ribbon Closure
Preparation”, direction #5 B.
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 2 Instructions:
Prepare the Dress Body
1. Decide if you would like to keep or trim your selvedges
for the inside seam. If keeping, proceed to step 2. Finish
raw edges with your preferred method. For example, if
you would like to trim your selvedges, cut them off with
a ruler and rotary cutter and zig zag stitch/or cut with
pinking sheers the edge to prevent fraying. If you have
a serger you may serge the edges now, you may also
decide to serge (or overlock) the bottom edge of the
dress at this time. Using your iron create a crease at the
top center of the fabric so you can easily locate the
center point in future steps.
Assemble the Dress Body
2. With the right sides of the dress body fabric together and with a ½ inch seam allowance using
a backstitch to start, begin sewing about 2.5 inches from the top of the dress (1 inch is more
appropriate for kids aged 2 and under). Continue sewing this seam to the bottom of the dress.
Press the un-sewn area at the top back seam flat and edge stitch around it as pictured. Pivot,
when sewing, as necessary.
Assemble the Arm Straps
3. Gather the arm strap pieces and fold in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Press. Sew
the long open end shut creating a tube with a ½ inch seam allowance. Fasten a safety pin to
one short end and fish through to the other end of the tube bunching the fabric to turn the
tube right side out. Use a chopstick or knitting needle to flatten the tube. Finger press, press
with iron. If you like, sew this flat using two edge stitches or one center stitch. This will ensure
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 3 that the straps do not get too rumpled in the wash.
Prepare the Bodice
4. Gather bodice materials. Lay one piece right side up, mark center with chalk or a water
soluble pen. Measure and mark 2.5 – 3.5 inches to the left and right of the center (more narrow
measurement for smaller child, wider for larger; *2.5 inches is about right for an 18-24 month old, 2.75-3
inches is appropriate for a four year old, and 3.5 inches for an 8 year old.). Do the same for the outside
edges: measure 2.5 -3.5 inches from the outer edges and mark. Gather finished straps and
place each piece on the forming a “U” on the outer and middle markings (nothing is on your
center mark). Take care to make sure this is not twisted and that the “U” hangs down the front
right side of your fabric. Anchor the straps by sewing them as marked to the bodice fabric
about ¼ inch down. Find child, drape piece over her arms and make sure the fit is appropriate.
Adjust if necessary. If making a wide long sash closure (Version C) please skip to 7 C.
Button Loop and Ribbon Tie Closure Preparation
5. (Version A) To sew button loops gather the bias strip now. Fold in half with wrong sides
facing, press. Fold outer edges in, press. Fold both pieces toward middle, press. Sew along the
open edge encasing the folded bits inside. Cut off the weird ends, and fold the remaining piece
in half. Cut in the middle – resulting in two equal pieces. (Version B) If you are using ribbon
ties, be sure to prepare them in a similar manner only they do not need to be cut on the bias –
continue to 6 B.
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 4 Attaching Button Loops and Ribbon Tie Closures
6. (Versions A & B) Lay the bodice piece with the straps attached right side up (meaning, straps
on top), secure buttons to one of the 4.5 tall sides (we’re free-wheeling it so pick a side, any
side). Figure out the width of your button and test it to see if it will freely pass through the
button strap opening. Once you are satisfied, tack them with a straight stitch to the side of the
bodice about 1 inch from the top, and place the other one about 3 inches from the top (or
whatever you prefer) The loop should be inside the dress and the scraggly ends should hang
off the edge of the fabric. You would not be crazy to iron on some interfacing scraps on the
other side of the bodice (wrong sides) where you will be sewing buttons, I didn’t do the best
job here. (Version B) Lay out the ribbon at the same 1” and 3” locations on either side of the
bodice. Tack with stitches keeping ribbon inside and on top of the bodice. *pre-made bias trim is
a fine substitute, simply stitch over the open edge to fully encase the ribbon. Continue to follow the
directions at 7 C.
Constructing the Bodice and Working with a Long Sash
7. (Versions A, B) Beginning on the left side of the bodice and with right sides together, at the
bottom edge (close to the side with no straps attached) sew with a ½ inch seam allowance
around the perimeter of the dress. Take care to make sure that your straps and button loop
closures are inside the stitches and not getting caught up in all the activity). Stop when you get
to the other edge – you have sewn three sides. Continue to item 8.
(Version C) Sew ONLY the top edge of the dress shut with the right sides together. Take care
to keep the arm straps outside of your stitches. Do not trim corners. Turn Bodice right side
out. Press both of the bodice’s (short) sides ½ an inch to the fabric’s wrong side.
Prepare sashes: Gather two long sashes - 4.5 inches tall by at least 40 inches long. Fold in half
with right sides together, iron out the wrinkles, trim off the selvedges. With a ½ inch seam
allowance sew down the two longest edges (20 inch long seams) from beginning to end (don’t
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 5 do anything to the folded or open short ends). Turn the piece right side out (pictured). Finger
press the edges evenly, iron when you are satisfied with the results. Continue to step 9.
8. Clip the two upper corners (not too close to the seam). Turn the bodice right side out and press (use
chopstick to press corners out).
Preparing the Bodice Enclosure
9. (All Versions) Fold the open (lower) edge of the bodice in ½ an inch on both sides; take care to make
sure these edges are equal as the gathered dress will be inserted into this in the following steps and it
is preferable to have this professionally encased. Set bodice aside.
Gathering the Dress Fabric
10. Adjust your stitch length to the longest setting (5.0). I altered tension to the highest setting (8.2),
which gathered the thread as I sewed. On the dress body fabric sew about 3/8 from the top edge of the
dress all the way around. If you will be gathering the fabric without using tension, I suggest simply
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 6 using the longest stitch setting and leaving about 5 inches of thread length at either side to manually
gather the fabric. *My settings are pictured and noted, yours may be different.
Attaching the Dress to the Bodice (and Securing the Long Sashes, Version C)
11. Take bodice, find middle section and line it up with the middle of the dress body. Turn the dress right
side out and begin pinning the wrong side of the dress to the right side of the bodice edge (you’re
working freely here, the bodice is the same on both sides it doesn’t matter how you get it attached, it
will be encased on both sides). Take care to distribute the gathers fully within the bodice area.
Carefully pin in place and sew along the ½ inch pressed edge. I serged the gathered fabric to the edge
of the bodice after I was certain everything was perfect.
(Version C) Secure the sashes: Unfold open side bodice area of either side of the bodice, pin
the open end of the sash to one of the raw bodice edges so that both raw edges are lined up.
Sew along the bodice’s creased guide from when you pressed it at step 8 B.
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 7 Fold this area into itself (as pictured, so that the raw edges become encased in the bodice).
Edge stitch along the bodice edge – this anchors the sash. You can finish edgestitching the
bodice as described in item 12, and also edgestitch the sash, if desired.
Sew the Bodice Together
12. Examine dress from the right side out and make sure that the gathers are encased and that none have
slipped out. If everything looks good fold the un-sewn side of the bodice over the other gathered side
of the dress. Pin along the just sewn seam line. Sew the bodice and dress together along this freshly
pinned edge taking care to create a smooth, finished piece.
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 8 Check Fit
13. Check fit on child. If it looks good, you can edge stitch the other sides of the bodice.
Finish Hem
14. Fold the bottom of the dress up ½ an inch to the wrong side. Press. Fold inside once more and press
again. Edge stitch (from the inside of the dress so you can make sure you’re catching the hem) and be
done! Unless of course you are sewing the buttons in Version A… In that case just one more thing
follows.
15. (Version A) Sew buttons on back bodice.
a Midsummer Dress © Charm Stitch 2011, all rights reserved 9