6 5 This super fast and simple pattern can be made in about 15 minutes with very little fabric. This is a great pattern for beginners and will be used often to complete your outfits! 4 Fabric Requirements (in yards) Size 3 Sizes 1 2 3 4 5 5/8 2/3 3/4 7/8 1 6 7 8 10 12 1 1 1/8 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8 2 *Fabric requirements based on 60” wide fabric. 1 Suggested fabrics: Designed for stretch knits only with 25% stretch across the grain such as jersey, interlock, matte jersey, double knit. Notions: Universal or Ball-point needle, Polyester thread, 1 package 1/4” elastic. Quick Measure OPTIONAL: Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch Thread Leggings Web: www.ellieinspired.com [email protected] Sizes 1-12 Designed by Laura Johnson © February 2013 1 CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Leggings • Cut out TWO pants pieces on the fold. (See last pattern page). by Laura Johnson Please read through all directions before beginning. GLOSSARY Finishing seam edges – Knits do not fray or ravel so a finished seam is not necessary. However, there are two ways to achieve a professional seam inside your garment with this pattern: 1. Use a serger when stitching the seams. 2. Use an overlock stitch or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine when stitching the seam. IMPORTANT: All seams, unless otherwise marked are ¼”. FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Size Size 1 Size 2 Size 3 Size 4 Size 5 Inseam 10” 12” 14” 16” 18” Shaded areas in diagram – In all of the diagrams in this pattern, the shaded areas are the wrong side of the garment. Waist 17” 18” 19” 20” 21” Size 6 Size 7 Size 8 Size 10 Size 12 Stretch Ratio – Stretch ratio is the maximum percentage a fabric will stretch. Most knits range from 18-100%. Inseam 20” 22” 24” 26” 28” Waist 22” 23” 24” 25” 26” Stretch Memory – The amount a knit will return to its original shape after being fully stretched. © February 2013 Laura Johnson 2 Ellie Inspired Pressing Knits: It is not necessary to press knits while TIPS FOR SEWING WITH KNITS constructing the garment since they do not take a sharp crease. However, the garment can be blocked when Types of Knits: finished to shape it, make the hems lie flat, and relax 1. Stable Knits – Knits with 18-25% stretch ratio. Example: stitching and elastic. polar fleece and sweat fabrics. 2. Moderate Knits - Knits with 26-50% stretch ratio. Example: T-shirt fabric, interlocks, jerseys, double-knits. 3. Stretchy Knits - Knits with 51-75% stretch ratio. Example: velour, stretch terry, some T-shirt fabrics. 4. Super-Stretch Knits - Knits with 76-100% stretch ratio. Interfacing: Interfacing should be used very sparingly with knits because it will prevent the knit from stretching. If interfacing must be used, use tricot interfacing which has a cross-wise stretch. It will not bubble or pucker like Pellon or woven fusing. Stabilizers such as twill tape, seam binding, Example: spandex, nylon spandex, cotton spandex, or a piece of woven selvage can be used to reinforce jumbo spandex. shoulder seams and prevent the garment from stretching 5. Rib Knits - Knits with up to 100% stretch ratio. Rib knits out of shape. are created by alternating vertical stripes of stockinette stitch with vertical stripes of reverse stockinette stitch. Machine Stitches: 1x1 Ribs stretch more than 2x2 or 3x3 ribs. Example: cuff 1. Stretch Stitch – The stretch stitch looks like a lightning ribbing, waistband ribbing, crew neck collars. 6. Sweater Knits - Knits with 18-50% stretch ratio. Example: sweaters and sweater dresses. 7. Stretch Wovens - Knits with less than 18% stretch ratio. Stretch wovens are created by weaving lycra within bolt on the sewing machine. It is a great choice to cut down on skipped and broken stitches. 2. Zig-Zag Stitch: A stitch that goes one way (zig), then the other (zag), which gives the fabric more room to stretch. fabric. © February 2013 Laura Johnson 3 Ellie Inspired 3. Three-Step Zig-Zag Stitch: A variation of the traditional 4. Walking Foot - A walking foot is optional but it will help zig-zag stitch which works better with tightly knitted greatly in diminishing puckering in the seams. It helps to fabrics to prevent skipped stitches and bunching under grip the top of fabric so that the top and bottom pass the needle. through under the needle evenly. 4. Twin-Needle Stitching - A twin needle will sew two parallel lines of stitches on the top of a piece of fabric, and a single zig-zag stitch underneath, making the seam decorative and stretchy Fold-Over Elastic, Bindings, and Ribbed Finishes: 1. Fold-Over Elastic: This can be used to bind edges. It is a stretchy trim with a knitted-in foldline. It stretches, comes in different widths, shiny, matte, or picot-edged. Notions: 2. Self-Fabric Bindings: Use a knit with a high stretch ratio. 1. Ball-point needles – Sharp needles pierce the fabric and 3. Ribbed Finishes: When cutting rib knit for cuffs or cut the fibers. Ballpoint needles have rounded tips and neckline, stretch the fabric when cutting. are designed to glide through the loops instead so that the fabric is not harmed. 2. Polyester thread - Polyester thread has more elasticity and can stretch a little with the fabric. Use polyester thread in the needle to create stable seams. 3. Wooly Nylon or Maxilock Stretch thread – These threads create seams that recover after being stretched, which is a great benefit when sewing knit fabrics. Use this thread in the upper looper of the serger and in the bobbin of the sewing machine. It also offers great coverage when stitching rolled hems. © February 2013 Laura Johnson 4 Ellie Inspired SEWING THE LEGGINGS Stitching the Front to the Back: 1. Place the two pants pattern pieces right sides together. Stitch the curved center back and center front 3. Open out the pants and place them right sides together so that the center back and center front seams that were just stitched are now in the centers and match at the crotch. Stitch the front to the back along the inseam. sections only. Finishing the Waist: 1. If possible, measure the waist of the child and subtract 1”. If child is not available for measuring, use the 2. Hem the bottom of each leg by turning it to the inside following chart as a guideline for average 1/2“ twice, enclosing the raw edges. Stitch close to the measurements. Cut a length of elastic the correct folded edge. length. Size Elastic Elastic © February 2013 Laura Johnson Size 1 Size 2 Size 3 Size 4 Size 5 17” 18” 19” 20” 21” Size 6 Size 7 Size 8 Size 10 Size 12 22” 23” 24” 25” 26” 5 Ellie Inspired 2. Join the elastic in a circle by overlapping ½” and stitch the ends together. This seam will be the center back. Leggings 3. Find the center front and the ¼ marks around the elastic for the two sides. Mark these four spots or place a pin in them. Place over the top of the WRONG side of the leggings, matching up all the ¼ points. By Laura Johnson. For personal use only. All rights reserved. Copyright © February 2013. No part of this pattern may be reproduced or copied without permission in writing from the author. To see more patterns by Laura Johnson go to www.ellieinspired.com. Special thanks to my wonderful pattern testers and wonderful customers. I hope you enjoy this gift from me to you! Fair use of this pattern are subject to the following conditions: 4. Stitch with a ¼” seam, s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g the elastic to fit the top of the leggings. 5. Fold the elastic down on the inside of the leggings. “Leggings” is a special thank-you gift for my amazing customers and is available for FREE! It is only available on my website: www.ellieinspired.com. Please do NOT re-post this pattern in its entirety. A link may be provided back to my site. If you sell garments made using this pattern, in consideration of the many hours spent on the design, please always give credit to Ellie Inspired as the designer (i.e. “Leggings” pattern by Ellie Inspired, www.ellieinspired.com). No mass production is permitted using this pattern. Stitch in place , close to the raw edge, s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g again to fit and using a zig-zag stitch to finish the edges. © February 2013 Laura Johnson For questions on sewing patterns by Ellie Inspired, visit the discussion forums on our website: www.ellieinspired.com 6 Ellie Inspired Instructions for cutting out pattern: The pattern pieces for the leggings are on pages 9-13 and should be taped together as seen below. (Page 13 is only for sizes 8-12). Use the black rectangles to match up the pieces of paper and check 1” square to make sure the pieces printed at 100% © February 2013 Laura Johnson 8 Ellie Inspired Place on Fold Stretch ELLIE INSPIRED Pants Cut 2 on Fold of Fabric “Leggings” A Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright © February 2013 www.ellieinspired.com 8 10 12 6 7 5 4 2 3 1 1” B Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright © February 2013 www.ellieinspired.com 1” 1” 4 3 2 1 C Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright © February 2013 www.ellieinspired.com 1” Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright © February 2013 www.ellieinspired.com 12 10 8 7 6 5 D E 1” Designed by Laura Johnson Copyright © February 2013 www.ellieinspired.com