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Corset
Making
for beginners to
intermediate
Julia Bremble
of Sew Curvy
ebook with video
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A RAINBOW DISKS EBOOK
Copyright © Rainbow Disks Limited 2012
Rainbow Disks Ltd
www.rainbowdisks.com
5 Linden Vale
Howell Road
Exeter EX4 4LF
UK
First published in the UK in 2012
Text and illustrations © Julia Bremble
Video © Rainbow Disks and Julia Bremble
Video by Trevor Wiggins
Editor: Vivienne Wells
ISBN 978-1-906314-23-1
Julia Bremble has asserted her right to be identified as author of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, by
photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from
the publisher.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN 978-1-906314-23-1
RAINBOW DISKS LTD
www.rainbowdisks.com
!
Contents
Contents
3
Using this ebook: tips
4
Introduction
5
why make a corset?
6
Brief History
8
How a Corset Works
XMTWJSV½XXMRKEGSVWIX 11
Essential Tools
14
QIEWYVMRKXSSPW
TETIVERHQEVOMRKXSSPW
JEFVMGGYXXMRKXSSPW
QIXEP[SVOXSSPW
WI[MRKXSSPW Essential Hardware
the busk
FSRMRK I]IPIXW Vital Underpinnings
60
taking measurements
making a toile
TYXXMRKSR]SYVGSVWIXXSMPI
½XXMRK]SYVGSVWIXXSMPI ½REPTEXXIVREHNYWXQIRXW
60
62
69
making a single layer corset:
XLIVIHWMPOGSVWIX worksheet : single layer corset
[MXLSYXJEWLMSRJEFVMG
worksheet 2: single layer corset
[MXLJEWLMSRJEFVMG making a double layer corset:
XLI[LMXIGSYXMPGSVWIX
worksheet : double layer corset
90
End Notes
92
books for techniques and inspiration
SRPMRIVIWSYVGIW
7YTTPMIVW
92
Glossary
94
Julia Bremble
96
More Rainbow Disks
97
20
Building a Framework
25
[SVOMRK[MXLFSRIW
inserting the busk
ZMHISMRWIVXMRKEFYWOPSSTWMHI
ZMHISMRWIVXMRKEFYWOWXYHWMHI
inserting the eyelets ZMHISMRWIVXMRKI]IPIXW Fabrication
46
WIEQW ZMHISQEOMRKE[IPXWIEQ
video: making a lapped seam/inserting
EKYWWIX
FSRIGEWMRKWERHGLERRIPW
MRWIVXMRKE[EMWXWXE] QEOMRKEFEGOQSHIWX]TERIP ½RMWLMRK
Making a Corset
20
Sewing Techniques
36
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WYTTSVXMRKWXVYGXYVI ZMHISVSPPTMRRMRK
"
To go to chapters or projects, click on the
headings here, use the Bookmark links
(click on the icon at the top left of the
Adobe Reader window) or scroll through
the page Thumbnails (click on the icon
next to the Bookmarks).
Using this eb ook: tips
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an interactive contents list) and page Thumbnails - they will take you
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XLEXTEKISVTVSNIGXMRXLIPMWX8LIWI&SSOQEVOWERH8LYQFREMPWEVI
activated by clicking on their icons (looking like tiny pages) at the top
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#
Introduction
The archetypal corset shape, the one everybody
thinks of when the word ‘corset’ is mentioned, is the
:MGXSVMER GSVWIX -X WPMQW XLI [EMWX [LMPI IRLERGMRK
the roundness of the bosom and the hips, creating
the classic hourglass shape to any figure, regardless
SJWM^I8LMWIFSSOMWERMPPYWXVEXIHKYMHIXSQEOMRK
E:MGXSVMERWX]PIGSVWIXJSVJEWLMSRSVGSWXYQI8LI
methods and materials are not exclusive to the period and can apply to other styles of corset, although
there are probably as many methods as there are
GSVWIXW8LMWMWNYWXXLIFIKMRRMRK
=SYHSRSXLEZIXSFIERI\TIVMIRGIHWIEQWXVIWW-J
you are comfortable behind a sewing machine, have a
good working knowledge of basic sewing techniques
ERHGERWI[EWXVEMKLXPMRI]SYGERFYMPHEGSVWIX-
WE]FYMPHFIGEYWIWI[MRKMWNYWXTEVXSJXLITVSGIWW
There are pieces of hardware to be manipulated using tools that may be more at home in the garden
WLIHXLERXLIWI[MRKVSSQ&YX[LIREPPXLITEVXW
are assembled in the right order, the result will be
a stunning piece of wearable architecture that, with
care, will last and be admired for many years, perhaps
even generations!
Julia Bremble in her studio.
See overleaf for a video introduction by Julia
'SVWIXV] [MPP HIZIPST ]SYV WI[MRK EFMPMXMIW ZIV]
quickly, and teach you to be patient, dextrous, organMWIHERHTVEGXMGEP-XWSYRHWEFMXPMOIENSFMRXIVZMI[
1] EMQ MR [VMXMRK XLMW IFSSO HS VIEH XLI LIPTJYP
9WMRKXLMWIFSSOXMTW!) is to pass on the most practical methods of corset building knowledge, built up
through years of making corsets and researching the
WYFNIGXMRQER]HMJJIVIRXERHWSQIXMQIWLEVHXSJMRH
TPEGIW - LSTI ]SY [MPP JMRH XLMW E KSSH FIKMRRIVW
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SJ MRWTMVEXMSR *VSQ LIVI ]SY GER I\TPSVI JYVXLIV
MRXSQSVIEHZERGIHXIVVMXSV]
Julia Bremble
The archetypal corset shape is Victorian. It creates an
hourglass shape by compressing the waist while enhancing
the roundness of bosom and hip
$
INTRODUCTION
video: introduction by julia bremble
why make a corset?
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]SY8LI]EVIRSXTEMRJYPSVYRGSQJSVXEFPIXS[IEV
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RSGEYWIJSVGSRGIVR8LMROSJEGSVWIXMRXLIWEQI
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heels hurt if you wear them for too long, and a corset
hurts if you lace it too tight, but both make you feel
+6)%8F]IRLERGMRK]SYVWLETIERHTSWXYVI8LI]
QEOI]SYWXERHWXVEMKLXERHXLIVIJSVIXEPP
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fitting challenge, and patterns that go right over the
FYWXEVIWGEVGI8LIVIMWRSXLMRKPMOIE[EMWXGMRGLIV
or ‘waspie’ (a shorter version of the underbust), for
achieving a flawless hourglass shape underneath a
Corsetry will quickly develop your sewing abilities
%
INTRODUCTION
The only limit is your
imagination. This
multi layer corset has
silver rubber fabric
over coutil
HVIWW;LMGLIZIVWX]PI]SYGLSSWIETVSTIVP]JMXXIH
GSVWIX MW XSXEPP] WQSSXL FIX[IIR GSVWIX ERH JPIWL
8LMWMW[L]XVEHMXMSREPGSVWIXV]MWTVIJIVVIHF]JEWLMSRHIWMKRIVWGIPIFVMXMIWERHFVMHIW
1EOMRKEGSVWIXMWJYR0IX]SYVMQEKMREXMSRVYR[MPH
F]EHHMRKJIEXLIVWSVFS[WFIEHWSVWTEVOPI1EOI
your corset as plain or as fabulous as you like, and
XEMPSVMXXSEWTIGMJMGSYXJMXSVSGGEWMSR;IEVMX[MXL
NIERW E WOMVX HVIWW SV XVSYWIVW 9WI SRI EW YRHIV,S[IZIVXLIVIMWEGEXGL8LISRP][E]XSKYEVERXII [IEVSVOIITMXWXVMGXP]MRXLIFIHVSSQ
a comfortable and professional fit is to wear a corset
that has been hand made to your own measurements In short, a corset is sexy, versatile, funky, fun and timeusing high quality components; in other words, a be- PIWW-GEREPQSWXKYEVERXIIXLEXSRGI]SYKIXWXEVXIH
WTSOIGSVWIX[LMGLMWZIV]I\TIRWMZI'IVXEMRP]EFI- ]SY[MPPWSSRFIGSQIEHHMGXIH-J]SYLEZIER]HMJspoke corset is beyond the pocket of many people so JMGYPX]JMRHMRKQEXIVMEPWSVWYTTPMIWNYWXGSRXEGXQIEX
the only way to achieve the fit and comfort of such a 7I['YVZ]'SVWIXV]
KEVQIRXMWXSQEOISRI]SYVWIPJ,ETTMP]YRPMOIQER]
[[[WI[GYVZ]GSQ
items of couture clothing, making a corset isn’t as difficult as first it may seem!
&
BRIEF HISTORY
;MXL XLI MRZIRXMSR SJ IPEWXMG XLI W
saw stiff boned corsets replaced by softer girdles and bras, which were strategiGEPP]FSRIH[MXL XLMR WTMVEP[MVIW -R XLI
W ERH W XLI RSRIPEWXMGEXIH GSVWIX
made a brief comeback in the form of the
[EWTMIYWIHXSGVIEXIXLIXMR][EMWXJSV
(MSV´W³2I[0SSO´JEWLMSRWSJXLIXMQI
Our attachment to corset technology reQEMRW WXVSRK XSHE] -X MW JVIUYIRXP] YWIH
in the world of haute couture and on the
GEX[EPO%RHXLIGSVWIXLEWFIGSQIJEWLionable as outerwear once again in subcultures such as fetish, goth, steampunk,
ERHFYVPIWUYI
Corsetry has become fashionable
as outerwear
By the 1950s, stays were made from elasticated net
'(
How a Corset Works
To make a successful corset, it helps
to know how the corset works, both
in relation to the body, and as a patXIVR-RQSWXHVIWWQEOMRKERHXEMPSVMRKTVSNIGXWE[IEVMRKIEWIMWEHHIH
to the pattern to give space between
XLIFSH]ERHXLIKEVQIRX%WEVIWYPX
the wearer can move comfortably
without feeling restricted, and there
MWRSWXVEMRMRKSRXLIJEFVMG
In contrast, a corset shapes by comTVIWWMSR -X LEW³RIKEXMZI IEWI´ MI MX
MW WQEPPIV XLER XLI [IEVIVW FSH] MR
SVHIV XS VIWXVMGX;LIR QEHI TVSTerly, a corset actually gains strength
from the even and constant pressure
I\IVXIHF]XLIVIWXVMGXIHFSH]MRWMHI
In spite of this restriction, a corset
should not cause pain by pinching or
putting strain on the wrong parts of
XLI FSH]8LI WOMPPIH GSVWIXMrVI YRderstands the pressure points of the
body, and how these and the corset
will interact for the best looking and
most comfortable result, bearing fully
in mind the particular physical atXVMFYXIWSJIEGL[IEVIV)ZIREWQEPP
amount of knowledge of traditional
flat pattern cutting will help when
QEOMRKERHJMXXMRKEGSVWIX
&IGEYWIEGSVWIXMW[SVRMQQIHMEXIP]
next to the skin, your choice of fab- A well made corset should be smooth, without any wrinkles and should not
VMGMWZIV]MQTSVXERX7]RXLIXMGJMFVIW cause pain by pinching or putting strain on the wrong part of the body
clasped around your torso will soon
FIGSQIW[IEX]YRGSQJSVXEFPIHMVX]ERHWQIPP]2EX- EXXIQTXEVIHYGXMSRSJQSVIXLER¯GQ¯MR
ural fibres are best because they ‘breathe’ and, pref- YRXMP]SYVFSH]MWEGGYWXSQIHXSVIKYPEVGSVWIXXMRK
IVEFP][MGOXLIQSMWXYVIE[E]JVSQXLIFSH]
;LIR GSRWXVYGXMRK E GSVWIX JVSQ ]SYV S[R SV E
0MOIQER]XLMRKWXLIPSSOERHJIIPSJEGSVWIXMWE commercial pattern, the most important, compliTIVWSREPTVIJIVIRGI7SQITISTPIPMOIEPMKLXGSRXVSP GEXIHERHHMJJMGYPXTVSGIHYVIMWJMXXMRK=SYQYWXHISXLIVWPMOIEZIV]GSRWXVMGXIHXMKLXPEGIHIJJIGX2SXI XIVQMRIXLILSVM^SRXEPGMVGYQJIVIRGISJGIVXEMROI]
that it takes years of training by a corset wearer to points on the torso, the precise vertical measureEGLMIZI WIVMSYW XMKLXPEGMRK [LIVI QSVI XLER ¯ QIRXWERH[LIVIXLI]EVIXLIHIWMVIH[EMWXWM^IERH
GQ¯MRMWXEOIRSJJXLIREXYVEP[EMWXWM^I(SRX XLIJMRMWLIH³PSSO´8LIVIMWRSQEKMGJSVQYPEJSVXLMW
''
Essential Tools
&IJSVIWXEVXMRKQEOIWYVI]SYLEZIEPPXLIVIUYMVIHXSSPWXSLERH8LIVI
are some quite challenging aspects to corsetry, which are difficult, if
RSXMQTSWWMFPI[MXLSYXXLIVMKLXMQTPIQIRXW,IVIMWEPMWXSJXLIFEWMG
XSSPW]SYRIIH(IXEMPIHMRWXVYGXMSRWSRLS[XSYWIXLIQETTIEVMRXLI
JSPPS[MRKGLETXIVW
Measuring tools: tape measure,
French curve/ruler, seam gauge tools
measuring tools
Good measuring tools are a must There are no half measures in corWIXV])ZIV]XLMRKQYWXFIEFWSPYXIP]TVIGMWI.YWXEJI[QMPPMQIXVIW³SYX´
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distances on your pattern if you need to, such as when making alteraXMSRWSVEHNYWXQIRXW%PWSJSVGYXXMRKEGGYVEXIFMEWWXVMTWJVSQJEFVMGMJ
]SY[MWLXS³WIPJFMRH´]SYVGSVWIXSVQEOI]SYVS[RFSRMRKXETI
ˆ 7IEQKEYKIJSVQIEWYVMRKWQEPPTVIGMWIHMWXERGIW
Suitable hand and machine needles
'#
Fabr i c at i on
1EOI]SYVGSVWIXEWJPMVX]EVX]GSQTPMGEXIHTPEMRSVWMQTP]IPIKERXEW]SY[MWL2SX[SGSVWIXWXLEX]SYQEOI
for yourself will be the same because you will build your
skills as you make each one, and as you work
you will have a thousand different ideas for your
RI\XGVIEXMSR8LIQER]HMJJIVIRXJEFVMGWGSPSYVW
and textures to choose from does allow the imagination to run riot – there really are no limits!
1IHMYQ [IMKLX WMPOW XEJJIXE ERH WYMXMRK JEFVMGW
EVITEVXMGYPEVP]KSVKISYWSTXMSRW
However, because corsets have metal components and are designed to be placed under a
considerable amount of strain, we need to think
carefully about the fabrics we use and how we
XVIEX XLIQ ;MXL XLI I\GITXMSR SJ ZIV] WSJX
floaty and sheer fabrics, such as chiffon and some
X]TIWSJSVKER^EXLIVIEVIJI[JEFVMGWXLEXEVI
entirely unsuitable because most fabrics can be
WXVIRKXLIRIHEWHIWGVMFIHMRXLMWGLETXIV
"%
Medium weight silk dupion and taffeta and
(below) suiting fabric, often used in corsetry
FABRICATION
Linings
A corset does not have to be lined, but a lining serves
ERYQFIVSJTYVTSWIW-XQEOIWXLIMRWMHISJXLIGSVWIX PSSO RMGI ERH WQSSXL%PWS HITIRHMRK SR XLI
fabric used, it can wick away moisture from the skin,
making the corset much more comfortable to wear,
IWTIGMEPP]MR[EVQGSRHMXMSRW
'SVWIXPMRMRKWGERFITEVXSJXLIGSVWIXMXWIPJNSMRIH
SRXSXLIGSVWIXEXEPPWIEQW3VXLI]GERFI³JPSEXMRK´ [LMGL QIERW XLEX XLI] SRP] NSMR XLI GSVWIX EX
the edges, giving a lovely smooth finish on the inside (preferable when wearing the corset next to the
WOMR%R]PMKLXQIHMYQJEFVMGGERFIYWIHEWEJEFric lining, the most popular being soft quilting-weight
GSXXSRSVPMRIR
Fashion fabric, turn of cloth and roll pinning
;LIRJEWLMSRJEFVMGMWYWIHEWXLISYXIVPE]IVSJXLI
corset in partnership with coutil or another strong,
close woven fabric, it must be attached to the strength
layer either by bonding or by a process called ‘roll
TMRRMRK´FIGEYWISJERMWWYIGEPPIHXYVRSJGPSXL
1SWXGSVWIXMRWXVYGXMSRFSSOWERHTEXXIVRWHSRSX
mention roll pinning or turn of cloth, but it is of the
upmost importance if you want to achieve a smooth
ERH PSRK PEWXMRK JMRMWL -R GSVWIXV] XYVR SJ GPSXL MW
built in after all of the fabric pieces are cut and before
XLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH
To demonstrate turn of cloth and the reason for roll
TMRRMRKXEOIX[SVIGXERKPIWSJJEFVMGEFSYXðGQ Although this corset is beautiful it has not had a turn of
cloth allowance built in. You can clearly see puckering
ðMR3RIWLSYPHFIEWXMJJJEFVMGGSYXMPSVHVMPP
XLISXLIVEWSJXIVJEFVMGWMPOSVPMKLXGSXXSR4PEGI underneath the silk over the hip, where the coutil strength
layer is straining against the silk outer layer
these rectangles together with the light fabric on top
SRXSTERHWI[EPSRKFSXLPSRKIHKIW2S[JSPHXLI
WXMXGLIH IHKIW YRHIV F] GQ ôMR WXMXGL HS[R top fabric has become smaller than the bottom fabric
EKEMRERHTVIWWXLITMIGIJPEX
[LIVI]SYLEZIJSPHIHSZIVXLIIHKIW-RXLIJMRMWLIH
GSVWIXXLMWGEYWIWYRWMKLXP]VMHKIWMRXLIGSYXMP
=SY[MPPRSXMGIXLEXMX[MPPRSXTVIWWJPEX2SEQSYRX
of smoothing or ironing will persuade your little To prevent this happening, we incorporate turn of
rectangle to lie flat, and, if you get the outside (soft GPSXLYWMRKXLIVSPPTMRRMRKXIGLRMUYI3RXLIRI\X
fabric) to look smooth, you will notice that the stiff TEKIWMWEWXITF]WXITKYMHIXSLSVM^SRXEPVSPPTMRRMRK
JEFVMGSRXLIYRHIVWMHITYGOIVW8LMWMWFIGEYWIXLI ]SYVGSVWIXTMIGIWFIJSVIXLI]EVIWI[RXSKIXLIV
#"
SEWING TECHNIQUES
bone casings and channels
The minimum requirement of a corset is to have
FSRMRKGLERRIPWEXIZIV]WIEQ8LIGLERRIPWGERFI
JSVQIHMRHMJJIVIRX[E]W8LIQSWXTSTYPEVQIXLSHW
are: using the seam allowances to make channels, adding boning tape casings on the inside, adding decorative boning casings on the outside, or ‘sandwiching’
the channels through all layers of a corset (when the
GSVWIX LEW SV QSVI PE]IVW;LIR WXMXGLMRK FSRI
GEWMRKW]SYQYWXEP[E]W[SVOMRSRP]SRIHMVIGXMSR
If you sew from opposite ends you may end up with
YRWMKLXP]VYGLMRKERH[VMROPMRK
See: &SRMRK, ;SVOMRK [MXL FSRIW, 'LERRIPW XETIW
ribbon, binding and laces, Seams
Sandwiched bone channels
This is the easiest way to sew boning channels into
your corset, but it cannot be used on a single layer
GSVWIX 5YMXI WMQTP] ]SY WXMXGL ETTVSTVMEXIP] WM^IH
channels through two or more layers of your corset
JEFVMGSRGIXLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH-XLIPTWXSORS[
the exact dimensions of your presser feet or employ
XLILIPTSJEUYMPXMRKFEV
These external boning channels are made of a shiny version of the
matt fabric used for the corset panels
$!
SEWING TECHNIQUES
Embellishments
The green corset has black lace appliqué motif and black
flossing at the bottom of the bone channels. The white
Once your corset is bound at the top and bottom corset has a lace trim attached to the binding, plus gold
edges, you can then decorate it further with lace, flossing with rhinestones. On the black panels are samples
JIEXLIVWVLMRIWXSRIWSV[LEXIZIVXEOIW]SYVJERG] of flossing stitches in different colours. Also shown are some
3V]SYGERPIEZIMXTPEMR8LIVIEVIRSVYPIW7SQI- gold ribbon and a matching bow
times a particular trim requires insertion before sewing down the binding, but that is an individual case for ment depends on the type of trim chosen and the
EWWIWWQIRXEWETTVSTVMEXI-RQSWXGEWIWIQFIPPMWL- HIWMVIHPSSOERHJIIPSJXLIKEVQIRX,S[IZIVMXMW
ing your corset offers the opportunity for ‘hand fin- EPQSWXEP[E]WRIGIWWEV]XSWI[XLMWTEVXF]LERH
ishing’, one of the features that will set it apart from
EKEVQIRXXLEXMW³SJJXLITIK´SV³VIEH]XS[IEV´
Lace overlays and motifs
A lace overlay can be sewn over all or some of your
JEWLMSRJEFVMGTMIGIWFIJSVIXLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH
If the binding is not a particular feature of your cor- Or you can use lace ‘motifs’ or edging attached to
set, you may wish to sew a braid, ribbon, feathers or your corset as a binding trim or an applique, whatFIEHIHXVMQXSXLIVIKYPEVFMRHMRK%KEMRXLMWMWZIV] IZIVWYMXW]SYVPEGI8LMWMWYWYEPP]WI[RSRYWMRKE
much a personal choice and the method of attach- XMR]WXEFSVJIPPWXMXGLIZIV]JI[QMPPMQIXVIW
Braid, ribbon and beaded trims
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Making a Corset
In this chapter we go through the process of making
three actual corsets from start to finish, using some
of the techniques, tool and materials outlined in preZMSYWGLETXIVW-I\TPEMRLS[XSTYXEPPXLIGSQTSnents together in the right order, and how keep your
work organised so the whole process is as easy as
TSWWMFPIJSVFIKMRRIVW8LIVIEVIPMROWXSVIPIZERXMRJSVQEXMSRMRIEVPMIVWIGXMSRWSJXLMWIFSSO
SVMKMREPWX]PIERHTVSTSVXMSRW-XLEWEFYMPXMR[EMWX
VIHYGXMSRSJGQ MR8SFY] XLI TEXXIVR KS XS
LXXT[[[XVYP]ZMGXSVMERGSQ
- LEZI FEWIH XLIWI GSVWIXW SR XLI TSTYPEV³8:´
corset pattern which is made by 8VYP]:MGXSVMER but
XLIXIGLRMUYIWERHQIXLSHWEVIKSSHJSVER]:MGXSVMERWX]PIGSVWIXTEXXIVR
8:LEWTEXXIVRTMIGIWJEMVP]WXERHEVHMR:MGXSVMERGSVWIXV]8LIMRWXVYGXMSRWKMZIRMRXLITEXXIVRIRvelope make a double layered corset (like the ;LMXI
'SYXMP 'SVWIX ,S[IZIV JSV XLI 6IH 7MPO 'SVWIX I
have converted the instructions to make a single layer
GSVWIXF]EHHMRKJEGMRKWEXXLIFEGOERHJVSRX-LEZI
EPWSEHHIHEJVSRXQSHIWX]TERIPXSFSXLZIVWMSRW
A quick reference ‘worksheet’ is included for each
TVSNIGX 9WI XLMW [LMPI ]SY [SVO XS OIIT ]SYVWIPJ
SVKERMWIH ERH JSGYWWIH8LI WLIIXW GER FI TVMRXIH
SJJERHSVGSTMIHERHGYWXSQMWIHJSVSXLIVTVSNIGXW
8LI8:TEXXIVRMWJVSQERSVMKMREPTEXXIVRTYFPMWLIHMRPEHMIWQEKE^MRIWEVSYRHXLI]IEV8VYP]:MGXSVMERLEZIQSHMJMIHMXXSMRGSVTSVEXIQSHIVR
JMKYVIGLEVEGXIVMWXMGWERHGYTWM^IWFYXMXVIXEMRWMXW See over for an image of the TV110 pattern.
The TV110 corset from Truly Victorian
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MAKING A CORSET
making a single layer corset:
the red silk corset
Here we are making a single layer corset using fashion fabric (silk) flatlined to a coutilPE]IV8LMWMWEFEWMGQIXLSHSJGSVWIXGSRWXVYGXMSR*SVEQSVIFEWMGGSRWXVYGXMSR]SYGSYPHYWINYWXGSYXMP[MXLSYXE
fashion fabric, in which case simply ignore the parts
of these instructions that deal with the silk, and follow ;SVOWLIIX
*EGMRKWEVIEHHIHXSXLITEXXIVRFIGEYWIXLMWMWIWWIRXMEPP]EWMRKPIPE]IVQIXLSHWSXLIVIMWRSPMRMRK
&SRI GEWMRKW are sewn to the inside of the corset
over the seams and stitched through all layers (the
silk is too delicate to take bones sandwiched beX[IIRMXERHXLIGSYXMP
The instructions here assume that you have made a
toile of the corset beforehand, to ascertain fit and
EPXIVXLITEXXIVRMJRIGIWWEV]
Print out ;SVOWLIIX. Use it to organise your work.
Tracing and altering the pattern
%WGIVXEMR]SYVWM^IJVSQXLIpattern envelope, trace
the pattern pieces accordingly then add the extra
pieces (facings and front modesty panel) required to
QEOIXLIGSVWIXMRXSEWMRKPIPE]IVGSRWXVYGXMSR
8SQEOIXLIJVSRXERHFEGOJEGMRKWGYXVIGXERKYPEV
TMIGIWSJJEWLMSRJEFVMGERHGSYXMPTMIGIWMRXSXEP
SR XLI WXVEMKLX KVEMR8LI VIGXERKPIW WLSYPH FI XLI
same length as the centre front/centre back edges
SJXLIGSVWIXERHGQôMR[MHI8LMWMRGPYHIW
WIEQEPPS[ERGIW*SVXLIJVSRXQSHIWX]TERIPGYXE The single layer corset, made of red silk flatlined to coutil
TMIGIGQETTVS\ôMR[MHIERHXLIWEQIPIRKXL
as the centre front/centre back edges of the corset 1EOIEtoile from calico or other cheap but sturdy
(see instructions on busk insertion)
JEFVMG*MX]SYVXSMPIERHRSXIER]JMXXMRKMWWYIW'SRfirm that any extra bone channels are in the right
-J ]SY EVI QEOMRK SRI SJ XLI PEVKIV WM^IW ]SY QE] TPEGIW 1EVO ER] EPXIVEXMSRW SR FSXL ]SYV QEWXIV
need extra bone channels running down the centre TEXXIVRERH]SYVXVEGIHTEXXIVR;LIR]SYEVIEFWSSJTMIGIWERHXLI[MHIWXTMIGIW1EVOXLIQ PYXIP]LETT][MXLXLIJMXERHLEZIQEHIEHNYWXQIRXW
SRXLITEXXIVRTIVTIRHMGYPEVXSXLI[EMWXPMRI
MJRIGIWWEV]MXMWXMQIXSGYXERHQEVOXLIJEFVMG
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End Notes
If I could convey only one piece of knowledge
about the art of corsetry, it would be that corWIXQEOMRKMWZIV]QYGLERMRHMZMHYEPWNSYVRI]
All corset makers – professional or otherwise
– have their own ways of doing things, developed through their particular experience and
ORS[PIHKI
2SX[SGSVWIXQEOIVW[SVOMRXLIWEQI[E]
SVYWIEPPXLIWEQIXIGLRMUYIW-XMWR´XEFSYX
‘competition’; it’s simply about what works
FIWXJSVXLIQEOIVWERHXLIMVTVSHYGXW8LIVI
EVIRSVYPIWSRP]KYMHIW
&IMRWTMVIHF]SXLIVWFYXRIZIVFIEJVEMHXS
I\TPSVIERHI\TIVMQIRX9WIQ]JEZSYVMXIVIWSYVGIWKMZIRLIVIXSI\TERH]SYVLSVM^SRW
books for techniques and inspiration
Corsets and Crinolines,2SVEL;EYKL6SYXPIHKI
Waisted Efforts: An Illustrated Guide to Corset Making,6SFIVX(S]PI7EVXSVMEP4VIWW
Corsets: A Cultural History, :EPIVMI7XIIPI=EPI9RMZIVWMX]TVIWW
Corsets: Historic Patterns & Techniques,.MPP7EPIR&EXWJSVH
Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear,%RR,EKEV.SLR;MPI]
Corsets: A Modern Girl’s Guide, :IPHE0EYHIV%
'&PEGO
Underwear Fashion in Detail,)PIVM0]RR:
%
Foundations of Fashion,The Symington Corsetry Collection, 1860–1990, 4LMPPMT;EVVIR0IMGIWXIVWLMVI1YWIYQW
The Fashionable Lady in the 19th Century, 'LEVPIW,+MFFW7QMXL:
%
Forties Fashion and the New Look,'SPMR1G(S[IPP&PSSQWFYV]
Bound to Please: A history of the Victorian Corset,0IMKL7YQQIVW&IVK
)!
Julia Bremble
Julia owns and runs the popular online shop
7I['YVZ]'SVWIXV],IVIWLIWIPPWGSVWIX
making and sewing supplies for the home
corsetiere and crafter and provides free
EHZMGISRLS[XSQEOIEGSVWIX
.YPME&VIQFPIMWEPWSXLIHIWMKRIV
behind 1EVQEPEHI/MWWthe beWTSOIGSVWIXV]WIVZMGI
Trained in pattern cutting for
fashion, Julia is a self taught corsetiere who has applied a study
of anthropometrics to her unique
brand of corsetry in order to
create exceptionally well fitted
and comfortable corsets for the
QSHIVR[SQER
Specialising in, but not limited to
corsetry, Julia works alone from
her home studio in Oxfordshire,
9/&]REXYVIETIVJIGXMSRMWXWLI
works locally and further afield,
creating corsets or outfits for any
SGGEWMSR
Julia teaches corsetry and dressQEOMRKMR3\JSVHWLMVI9/ERH
writes a sewing blog recording
her professional and recreational
sewing pursuits, including pattern
GYXXMRKERHHVIWWQEOMRK
Read all about it at The House of
1EVQEPEHI
)%