1914, The End of the Edwardian Era

1914, The End of the Edwardian Era
The Edwardian Era
The Edwardian era starts with the death of Queen Victoria in 1901 and ends most technically with the
death of her son King Edward the 7th in 1910 but is considered by some to end with the sinking of the
Titanic in 1912 and by most with the outbreak of WW I in 1914. In France the corresponding Belle Epoch
also ends with war in 1914. For the purpose of our centennial we should consider our clothing period to
be very late Edwardian.
By 1914, women's clothing had lost the rigid, tailored lines of the Edwardian period, and the styles of fashion's first great design genius, Paul Poiret,
obliterated the need for wearing tight fitting corsets. Shortly before the outbreak of World War I, fashion had taken on a whole new look based on
Orientalism with its soft drapery, and bold prints. The lines of Russian peasant costume appeared in hip length tunics, a style that lasted throughout the
war years. During the Great War, higher hemlines exposed a gap between the tip of the boot and a skirt hem. The look distracted from the overall
appearance of an outfit, so the high button boots of the past were abandoned. Women wore shoes with heels that featured a slight curve. Tango shoes"
had criss-crossing straps at the ankles that peeked out from draped and wrapped evening skirts. During the war years, working women wore sensible
laced shoes with round toes and lower wedge heels.
During the war, as men went off to fight, women took on jobs formerly filled by men. Women and girls who previously worked as domestic servants took
on jobs in munitions factories, performed administrative work, took work as drivers, nurses, and farm workers. They volunteered for organizations like the
Red Cross, and joined the military. Many of the occupations demanded the wearing of uniforms, including trousers. A military look crept into fashion
designs as well with military style tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets.
A new image of freedom and self respect led women away from traditional gender roles. They drove cars and demanded the right to vote.
Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the privations of war, and loss of communication between the US and Europe, New York
emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination or femininity and practicality.
During World War I, people took to a plainer lifestyle. Women stopped wearing jewelry, and the lavish clothing of the Edwardian period fell by the wayside.
As women dressed for new roles, gender dictated dress codes relaxed. Skirts became shorter, as they often do during wartime and colors became sober
and muted.
Below: 1914, French
“By 1914, skirts were widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankle.
These hobble skirts made long strides impossible. “
The Day Dress
Top left: 1914 day dress.
Above left: summer day dress, 1914.
Top right: tea dress, 1910 to 1915.
Above right: mid decade with large hat.
Bottom right: day dress, 1916-1918.
Bottom left: hem lines up with War.
Bottom Centre: 1910’s.
The Suit
Left: tailored travelling suit,
1914. Pre war opulence is gone.
Below: Fur hats and wraps are
in.
Far right: blue wool suit,
1914/15.
Near right: cotton summer suit,
1915/16.
Casual Wear
Le crevat used by women in this period as
was the sailor suit.
Dress &
Evening
1914-1917
1915-1918
1914-1915
Bobbed hair of Irene
Castle becoming more
popular.
Pre war evening gown
1914-1920
1914 - 1916
More Dress & Evening
1910-1914
1914
1914 left
1914-1917
1914
Oriental
Influence
1915
1914
1915/16
1914
What Lies Beneath
Long line corset, 1910.
The war brings relief
with the corset easing
up. Full underwear for
men.
To the Beach
Formal dress shirt collars
were turned over or pressed
into "wings". Collars were
overall very tall and stiffened,
with rounded corners. The
usual necktie was a narrow
four-in-hand. Ascot ties were
worn with formal day dress
and white bow ties with
evening dress.
1915
1912 working man
1914
traveller
1914
1913
1913
note the white bow tie.
1914
Fashion for children in the 1910s
evolved in two different
directions, day-to-day and
formal dress. Boys were
dressed in suits with trousers
that extended to the knee and
girls' apparel began to become
less "adult" as skirt lengths
were shortened and features
became more child-focused
(Villa 28). The war affected the
trends in general, as well (Villa
36). Military influences in
apparel for little boys was
typical and the lengths of skirts
for girls were cut shorter yet
because of material rationing
(Villa 37). The boys even wear
shorts in the winter.
Children
1914 1916
Hats for Women
Hats for
Men
Silk top hats remained a
requirement for upper class
formal wear; soft felt
Homburgs or stiff bowler hats
were worn with lounge or
sack suits. Flat straw boaters
and fedora hats were
acceptable for a wider range
of activities than previously,
and Panama hats were worn
for travel. Gentlemen of all
classes, especially the
middle and working class
often wore the newsboy cap
and flat cap.
The Great War created a
leather shortage and saw the
introduction of cloth topped
shoes and boots, functional
footwear that appeared mostly
in black.
Shoes
Downton Abbey – post Edwardian
(1903) through major events of
the early 20th century including
the sinking of the Titanic and
WWI.
New Images of Early Pitt Meadows Fashion (Blaney
Album)
Some Sources to Investigate
http://www.nataya.com/
http://www.Recollections.biz
http://www.premierclothing.com/Shop/c/3-victorian-edwardian-ensembles/
http://www.lavendersgreen.com
vintagedancer.com
http://www.antiquedress.com/gallery.htm
http://www.polyvore.com/titanic_era/collection?id=2164118
http://www.florencecostumes.com/costume.php?id=15
http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1912.html
Past Patterns (http://www.pastpatterns.com)
http://reenactingtoremember.wordpress.com/patterns/1912-womens-patterns/
http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/articles/1912frocksxmas.html
http://www.thefind.com
http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/restored.htm
http://www.forestcreekrenaissance.com/Edwardian-Gowns-Dresses-s/353.htm?gclid=CJLJrZ38lLgCFQ1xQgodM38A0w
http://www.ladiesemporium.com/store/ladies_victorian_dresses.php?gclid=CK-r5sX8lLgCFcR_Qgodzk8AkA
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/mens_victorian_outfits.php
www.waistedefforts.com/titanic
http://www.squidoo.com/titanic-dresses
http://www.amasquerade.com/costumes_1901_1918_edwardian.asp
http://www.vintagedancer.com/edwardian/edwardian-womens-clothing/
esty
ebay
amazon
Make your own – mccalls 5523 skirt and lengthen to ankle; shirt 6513 and shorten to waist and arms to
below elbow; add waist sash or simplicity 2058 or new look 6079/6433/6463 or 6072 kimono, 6186 top, 6945 top or
burda skirt 7124/b7196 (lengthened)/7215(lengthened)/7216 (hobbled)/b8973 or vogue skirt 8499, jacket
v8756/v8654/v8519/v8333/v8676/v8621
simplicity 5974 – empire waist or 9716 or 5943 or 1772 or 8399
butterick b4212 or 5405 or 4954 b5662 b5696 b4093 mccalls 7426
Check out Fabricana on United for
period patterns and for fabric.