1914, The End of the Edwardian Era The Edwardian Era The Edwardian era starts with the death of Queen Victoria in 1901 and ends most technically with the death of her son King Edward the 7th in 1910 but is considered by some to end with the sinking of the Titanic in 1912 and by most with the outbreak of WW I in 1914. In France the corresponding Belle Epoch also ends with war in 1914. For the purpose of our centennial we should consider our clothing period to be very late Edwardian. By 1914, women's clothing had lost the rigid, tailored lines of the Edwardian period, and the styles of fashion's first great design genius, Paul Poiret, obliterated the need for wearing tight fitting corsets. Shortly before the outbreak of World War I, fashion had taken on a whole new look based on Orientalism with its soft drapery, and bold prints. The lines of Russian peasant costume appeared in hip length tunics, a style that lasted throughout the war years. During the Great War, higher hemlines exposed a gap between the tip of the boot and a skirt hem. The look distracted from the overall appearance of an outfit, so the high button boots of the past were abandoned. Women wore shoes with heels that featured a slight curve. Tango shoes" had criss-crossing straps at the ankles that peeked out from draped and wrapped evening skirts. During the war years, working women wore sensible laced shoes with round toes and lower wedge heels. During the war, as men went off to fight, women took on jobs formerly filled by men. Women and girls who previously worked as domestic servants took on jobs in munitions factories, performed administrative work, took work as drivers, nurses, and farm workers. They volunteered for organizations like the Red Cross, and joined the military. Many of the occupations demanded the wearing of uniforms, including trousers. A military look crept into fashion designs as well with military style tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets. A new image of freedom and self respect led women away from traditional gender roles. They drove cars and demanded the right to vote. Before the war, Paris led the world of fashion. But due to the privations of war, and loss of communication between the US and Europe, New York emerged as a fashion leader with new designs based on a combination or femininity and practicality. During World War I, people took to a plainer lifestyle. Women stopped wearing jewelry, and the lavish clothing of the Edwardian period fell by the wayside. As women dressed for new roles, gender dictated dress codes relaxed. Skirts became shorter, as they often do during wartime and colors became sober and muted. Below: 1914, French “By 1914, skirts were widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankle. These hobble skirts made long strides impossible. “ The Day Dress Top left: 1914 day dress. Above left: summer day dress, 1914. Top right: tea dress, 1910 to 1915. Above right: mid decade with large hat. Bottom right: day dress, 1916-1918. Bottom left: hem lines up with War. Bottom Centre: 1910’s. The Suit Left: tailored travelling suit, 1914. Pre war opulence is gone. Below: Fur hats and wraps are in. Far right: blue wool suit, 1914/15. Near right: cotton summer suit, 1915/16. Casual Wear Le crevat used by women in this period as was the sailor suit. Dress & Evening 1914-1917 1915-1918 1914-1915 Bobbed hair of Irene Castle becoming more popular. Pre war evening gown 1914-1920 1914 - 1916 More Dress & Evening 1910-1914 1914 1914 left 1914-1917 1914 Oriental Influence 1915 1914 1915/16 1914 What Lies Beneath Long line corset, 1910. The war brings relief with the corset easing up. Full underwear for men. To the Beach Formal dress shirt collars were turned over or pressed into "wings". Collars were overall very tall and stiffened, with rounded corners. The usual necktie was a narrow four-in-hand. Ascot ties were worn with formal day dress and white bow ties with evening dress. 1915 1912 working man 1914 traveller 1914 1913 1913 note the white bow tie. 1914 Fashion for children in the 1910s evolved in two different directions, day-to-day and formal dress. Boys were dressed in suits with trousers that extended to the knee and girls' apparel began to become less "adult" as skirt lengths were shortened and features became more child-focused (Villa 28). The war affected the trends in general, as well (Villa 36). Military influences in apparel for little boys was typical and the lengths of skirts for girls were cut shorter yet because of material rationing (Villa 37). The boys even wear shorts in the winter. Children 1914 1916 Hats for Women Hats for Men Silk top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; soft felt Homburgs or stiff bowler hats were worn with lounge or sack suits. Flat straw boaters and fedora hats were acceptable for a wider range of activities than previously, and Panama hats were worn for travel. Gentlemen of all classes, especially the middle and working class often wore the newsboy cap and flat cap. The Great War created a leather shortage and saw the introduction of cloth topped shoes and boots, functional footwear that appeared mostly in black. Shoes Downton Abbey – post Edwardian (1903) through major events of the early 20th century including the sinking of the Titanic and WWI. New Images of Early Pitt Meadows Fashion (Blaney Album) Some Sources to Investigate http://www.nataya.com/ http://www.Recollections.biz http://www.premierclothing.com/Shop/c/3-victorian-edwardian-ensembles/ http://www.lavendersgreen.com vintagedancer.com http://www.antiquedress.com/gallery.htm http://www.polyvore.com/titanic_era/collection?id=2164118 http://www.florencecostumes.com/costume.php?id=15 http://www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1912.html Past Patterns (http://www.pastpatterns.com) http://reenactingtoremember.wordpress.com/patterns/1912-womens-patterns/ http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/articles/1912frocksxmas.html http://www.thefind.com http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/restored.htm http://www.forestcreekrenaissance.com/Edwardian-Gowns-Dresses-s/353.htm?gclid=CJLJrZ38lLgCFQ1xQgodM38A0w http://www.ladiesemporium.com/store/ladies_victorian_dresses.php?gclid=CK-r5sX8lLgCFcR_Qgodzk8AkA http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/mens_victorian_outfits.php www.waistedefforts.com/titanic http://www.squidoo.com/titanic-dresses http://www.amasquerade.com/costumes_1901_1918_edwardian.asp http://www.vintagedancer.com/edwardian/edwardian-womens-clothing/ esty ebay amazon Make your own – mccalls 5523 skirt and lengthen to ankle; shirt 6513 and shorten to waist and arms to below elbow; add waist sash or simplicity 2058 or new look 6079/6433/6463 or 6072 kimono, 6186 top, 6945 top or burda skirt 7124/b7196 (lengthened)/7215(lengthened)/7216 (hobbled)/b8973 or vogue skirt 8499, jacket v8756/v8654/v8519/v8333/v8676/v8621 simplicity 5974 – empire waist or 9716 or 5943 or 1772 or 8399 butterick b4212 or 5405 or 4954 b5662 b5696 b4093 mccalls 7426 Check out Fabricana on United for period patterns and for fabric.
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