3954 McCALL'S
®
Page 1 of 4
PATTERN MARKINGS
ADJUST IF NECESSARY
CUTTING AND MARKING
GRAINLINE: Place on straight grain of fabric, an even distance
from selvage or fold
A pattern is made to fit body measurements, with extra ease for comfort and
style. Adjust pieces before placing on fabric. Adjust back waist, sleeve and finished
garment lengths using McCALL’s EasyRule Guide.
SHRINK FABRIC not labeled pre-shrunk. Press.
CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width.
Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface
shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used.
For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD) - fold fabric with Right Sides Together.
TO SHORTEN:
Crease on Easy-Rule
Guide. Fold necessary amount. Tape in
place.
DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD) - For fabrics with nap, fold fabric crosswise, RIGHT SIDES
TOGETHER. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold
of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same
direction and place over lower layer, RIGHT SIDES
TOGETHER (B).
TO LENGTHEN: Cut
on dotted lines of
Easy-Rule
Guide.
Spread
necessary
amount. Tape over
paper.
For SINGLE THICKNESS - place fabric Right Side Up.
Before CUTTING place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Overlap margins. Pin.
Cut ACCURATELY through fabric and pattern on cutting line. Cut notches outward.
When Easy-Rule Guide is not on tissue,
lengthen or shorten at lower edge.
BEFORE REMOVING PATTERN, transfer markings to Wrong Side of fabric.
Two ways which may be used quickly are the Pin and Chalk Pencil method or
Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel.
FOLD LINE: Place on fold of fabric.
Place on fold
CUTTING LINE: For cutting.
SEAM LINE: For stitching.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: Distance between cutting and seam lines,
usually 5/8” (1.5cm). On multi-sized patterns seam allowance is
included, but not printed on tissue.
NOTCHES AND SYMBOLS: For matching pattern pieces.
46” (117cm)
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT SYMBOL: The finished
garment measurements at bust and/or hip are printed on your
Front pattern pieces. The measurement includes Body Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease. The measurement
excludes pleats, tucks, darts and seam allowances. Measurements
are also printed on the back of the pattern envelope when space is
available.
LAYOUT NOTES
A
Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for smaller
sizes.
This McCall pattern may have cutting lines for several
sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for
your size.
If pattern is petite-able, layouts illustrated are suitable for
corresponding Petite sizes.
B
★ Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this
piece. Open fabric. For “Cut 1” pieces, cut piece once on
single layer of fabric with piece face up on right side of fabric. For “Cut 2” pieces, cut piece twice on single layer of
fabric, once with piece face up and once with piece face
down on right side of fabric.
CUTTING LAYOUTS
DRESS D
CONTRAST B
DRESS A
use pieces: 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5
use pieces: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10
45" (115cm)
sheer fabric
all sizes
45" (115cm)
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
use pieces: 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5
45" (115cm) with nap or without nap
all sizes
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
9 9
7
8 8
4
5
7
6
10
FOLD
SELVAGES
2
SELVAGES
2
3
1
11 PATTERN PIECES
DRESS A THRU D
8
CD
2
AB
1
AB
7 CD
1
6 CD
60" (150cm)
with nap
all sizes
4
5
FOLD
9 CD
3
4
5
1
SELVAGES
FOLD
2
4
2
SELVAGES
1
2
2
5
45" (115cm)
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
use pieces: 1, 2, 4 & 5
SELVAGES
2
1
FOLD
7 Bodice Back C,D
2 Bodice Back A,B
8 Front Strap C,D
3 Sleeve A,B
9 Back Strap C,D
4 Skirt Back
10 Bodice Front Lining C,D
5 Skirt Front
11 Overskirt Front D
6 Bodice Front C,D
1
SELVAGES
9
8
9 9
7
8 8
4
5
FOLD
10
6
9
7
6
7
SELVAGES
9
45" */**
3954 CONTRAST [D]
SELVAGES
60" (150cm)
sheer fabric
all sizes
9
4
4
2
7
4
7
8
2
7
11
4
FOLD
60" (150cm)
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
2
4
DRESS A,B,C,D
60" (150cm)
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
45" (115cm)
sheer fabric
all sizes
use pieces: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10
DRESS B
1 Bodice Front A,B
use pieces: 4, 6, 7, 8, 9 & 11
DRESS C
1
FOLD
5
8 8
CONTRAST D
60" **
11 D
45" (115cm)
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
10
60" *
3954 DRESS [C]
1
4
1
6
5
FOLD
3
5
4
7
FOLD
SELVAGES
2
7
9
3
FOLD
60" (150cm)
without nap
all sizes
9
4
1
10 CD
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
60" (150cm)
sheer fabric
all sizes
3
5
5
60" (150cm)
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
SELVAGES
3
AB
4
45" *
3954 DRESS [C]
Size 18
Plot 1123
2
5
6
10
11
6
FOLD
8 8
FOLD
5
1
60" **
3954 CONTRAST [D]
Size 18
1
FOLD
© The McCall Pattern Co., 2003 All Rights Reserved.
Printed in U.S.A.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 2
SEWING DIRECTIONS
3954 - Page 2 of 4
SEWING INFORMATION
VIEW A or B
Stitch bodice back sections and front together at
shoulders and
sides.
DRESS A or B
For View B, stitch sleeve in a
DOUBLE-STITCHED seam. Press
seam toward sleeve back.
FABRIC KEY
1.
BODICE
For lining, prepare remaining bodice
front and bodice back sections in the
same manner, omitting contrast for
View B. Turn up 5/8”(1.5cm) seam
allowance on lower edge; press. Trim
pressed seam allowance to 3/8”(1cm).
VIEW A
Stitch darts in one BODICE FRONT (1) section.
Press toward center. (Remaining bodice front section will be used for lining.)
SEAM ALLOWANCES
1
Use 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated.
Trim enclosed seam
allowances into layers.
VIEW A or B
To form casing for elastic, turn in
5/8”(1.5cm) seam allowance on lower
edge, turning in 1/4”(6mm) on raw
edge; press. Stitch, as shown, leaving
an opening.
Trim corners.
Pin lining to bodice. Stitch neck edge.
Trim. UNDERSTITCH lining as far as
possible.
Stitch dart in two BODICE BACK (2) sections. Press toward center.
(Remaining bodice back section will be used for lining.)
2
Notch outer curves.
Clip inner curves.
VIEW B
PIN AND FIT
Pin or baste seams, RIGHT SIDE TOGETHER, matching notches. Fit garment
before stitching major seams.
Pin wrong side of CONTRAST BODICE FRONT (1) and CONTRAST BODICE BACK (2)
sections to right side of one BODICE FRONT(1) and two BODICE BACK (2) sections.
Baste through all symbols and all lines of construction, as shown, leaving both ends of
thread free for easy removal. (Remaining bodice sections will be used for lining.)
Turn lining to inside; press. Baste raw
edges together at armhole.
Cut two pieces of elastic, each the measurement of
upper arm plus 1”(2.5mm). Insert elastic through
opening. Lap ends; hold with safety pin. Try on and
adjust if necessary. Stitch ends of elastic securely.
PRESS
Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat.
2
2.
1
1
2
GLOSSARY
Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions are explained below.
SLEEVE
NOTE: Contrast texture will not be shown in the following illustrations.
GATHER upper edge of SLEEVE (3) between
small circles.
3
Stitch opening, stretching elastic while stitching.
DOUBLE-STITCH-Stitch seam along seamline; stitch again 1/4” (6mm) away in seam
allowance using a straight stitch OR zigzag stitch; trim close to second stitching OR
overlock seam.
For View A, stitch sleeve seam.
GATHER-Stitch along seamline and again 1/4” (6mm) away In seam allowance, using
long machine stitches. Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit.
Stitch darts in bodice front. Press towards
center.
With right sides together, pin sleeve into armhole,
placing large circle at shoulder seam. Adjust
gathers; baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4”(6mm)
away in seam allowance. Trim close to stitching.
Press seam allowances flat. Turn seam toward
sleeve.
SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of underneath
fabric.
UNDERSTITCH-Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch to seam allowance
close to seam.
Stitch dart in bodice back. Press towards center.
2
CONTINUED ON PAGE 3
3954 - Page 3 of 4
3.
VIEW A or B
SKIRT
VIEW A
Pin skirt to bodice, matching side seams and
centers. Stitch, keeping bodice lining free. Stitch
again 1/4”(6mm) away in seam allowance. Trim
close to stitching. Press seam toward bodice.
5
Stitch SKIRT BACK
(4) sections together
at center back, leaving open above large
circle.
VIEW D
Pin velvet ribbon trim to lower edge of bodice,
having one edge along seam, turning under
ends at back edges. Hand-sew or machinestitch long edges and ends in place, starting
and stopping at zipper stitching.
Pin wrong side of CONTRAST
BODICE FRONT (6) to right side of
BODICE FRONT (6) section. Baste
through all symbols and all lines of
construction, as shown, leaving
both ends of thread free for easy
removal.
Turn up lining. Baste opening
edges together along seamline
above large
4
Stitch SKIRT FRONT
(5) and skirt back
together at sides.
4
Open zipper; place face down on
extended seam allowance, placing zipper stop at large circle and
zipper teeth on seamline. Baste in
center of zipper tape, keeping
garment free.
6
6
Pin wrong side of two CONTRAST BODICE BACK (7)
to right side of BODICE BACK (7) sections. Baste
through all symbols and all lines of construction, as
shown, leaving both ends of thread free for easy
removal. (Remaining bodice back sections will be used
for lining).
For bow, cut one piece of ribbon 15”(38cm) long.
Make bow. Tack to lower edge of bodice center front.
7
7
NOTE: Contrast texture will not be shown in the following illustrations.
Close zipper; turn pull tab up.
Spread garment flat. Baste a
scant 1/4”(6mm) from zipper teeth
and across lower edge.
On outside, stitch along basting
through all thicknesses, using a
zipper foot. Remove basting.
VIEW B
Stitch CONTRAST SKIRT BACK (4) sections together at center back, leaving open
above large circle. Clip one seam allowances 1/4”(6mm) below large circle. Stitch again
1/4”(6mm) away in seam allowance to clip. Trim close to second stitching. Press seam to
one side.
Turn down lining, turning in opening
edges to clear zipper teeth; press.
SLIPSTITCH pressed edge to zipper
tape and over seam.
For View B, pin lip of fringe to bodice, having
lower edge along seam, turning under ends at
back edges. Hand-sew or machine-stitch long
edges and ends in place, starting and stopping at zipperstitching.
GATHER upper edge of bodice front
between squares and lower edge
between small circles.
Stitch dart in each
bodice back section.
Press toward center.
Stitch CONTRAST SKIRT FRONT (5) and contrast skirt back together at sides in DOUBLE-STITCHED seams. Press seams toward back.
5
1.
4
4
4.
FINISHING
Stitch two bodice back
sections to bodice front
at sides.(Remaining
bodice back sections
will be used for lining.)
DRESS C or D
Sew hook and thread eye to back opening edges above
zipper, as shown.
2.
BODICE
Turn up 1 1/4”(3.2cm) hem on lower edge, keeping overskirt free for View B. Baste close to fold.
FINISH raw edge. Sew hem in place, easing in
fullness, if necessary. Press.
STRAP AND BODICE LINING
VIEW C
VIEW C
GATHER upper edge of BODICE FRONT
(6) between squares and lower edge
between small circles.
7
7
Stitch one FRONT STRAP (8) to one BACK STRAP (9) at
notched edge.
9
8
6
VIEW D
8
Pin wrong side of CONTRAST (8) to right side of two FRONT
STRAP (8). Baste.(Remaining front strap will be used for lining.)
8
Stitch dart in each BODICE BACK (7) section. Press toward center.
Stitch two bodice back sections to bodice front at sides. (Remaining bodice back sections will
be used for lining.)
Pin wrong side of contrast skirt section over
skirt, having upper and opening edges even.
Baste raw edges.
Pin wrong side of CONTRAST (9) to right side of two BACK STRAP
(9). Baste. (Remaining back strap will be used for lining.)
VIEW B
Finish lower edge of overskirt with a 5/8”(1.5cm) hem or
very narrow hem.
To make a very narrow hem, stitch 1/2”(13mm) from raw
edge.
7
NOTE: Contrast texture will not be shown in the following illustrations.
9
7
Stitch front and back strap together at notched edge.
Turn in and press edge alongside stitching, as shown.
Trim very close to stitching.
Turn in again along trimmed edge. Stitch in place.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 4
3954 - Page 4 of 4
3.
VIEWS C,D
Stitch overskirt front and contrast skirt back together at sides in DOUBLE-STITCHED seams.
Press seams toward back.
SKIRT
VIEW C or D
Stitch front and back strap lining sections together at
notched edge.
Turn lining down, turning in opening edges to clear
zipper teeth; press. SLIPSTITCH pressed edge to zipper tape and over seam.
Stitch SKIRT BACK (4) sections together at center back, leaving open above large circle.
Stitch SKIRT FRONT (5) and skirt back together at sides.
5
With right sides together, pin strap and strap lining
together. Stitch, leaving ends open.
4
Sew hook and thread eye to back opening
edges above zipper, as shown.
4
Turn; press. Baste raw edges together.
Pin wrong side of contrast skirt section over
skirt, matching large circles on front and having upper and opening edges even. Baste
raw edges.
VIEW D
Stitch CONTRAST SKIRT BACK (4) sections together at center back, leaving open
above large circle. Clip seam allowances 1/4”(6mm) below large circle. Stitch again
1/4”(6mm) away in seam allowance to clip. Trim close to second stitching. Press seam
to one side, as shown.
Pin shoulder strap to bodice front, lining
side up, matching squares and small circles
and bodice back matching large and small
circles. Baste.
4.
HEM AND FINISHING
Turn up 1-1/4”(3.2cm) hem on lower edge, keeping
overskirt free for View D. Baste close to fold. Finish
raw edge. Sew hem in place, easing in fullness, if
necessary. Press.
For View D, finish lower edge of overskirt with a
5/8”(1.5cm) hem or very narrow hem in the same
manner as front edges.
Pin skirt to bodice, matching side seams and centers.
Stitch, keeping bodice lining free. Stitch again
1/4”(6mm) away in seam allowance. Trim close to
stitching. Press seam toward bodice.
4
¯
To make a very narrow hem, stitch 1/2”(13mm) from
raw edge.
Turn in and press edge alongside stitching, as shown.
Trim very close to stitching.
Turn in again along trimmed edge. Stitch in place.
4
Stitch dart in BODICE FRONT LINING (10). Press toward center.
Turn lining up. Baste opening edges together along seamline above large circle. Press.
Stitch remaining bodice back sections to bodice front lining at sides. Turn in 5/8”(1.5cm)
seam allowance on lower edge; press. Trim pressed seam allowance to 3/8”(1cm).
Open zipper; place face down on extended seam allowance, placing zipper stop at large circle and zipper teeth on seamline. Baste in center of zipper tape, keeping garment free.
Close zipper; turn pull tab up. Spread garment flat. Baste a scant 1/4”(6mm) from zipper
teeth and across lower edge.
10
On outside, stitch along basting through all thicknesses, using a zipper foot. Remove basting.
VIEW C
Pin trim to upper edge of skirt, having one edge along
bodice seam, turning under ends at back edges.
Hand-sew or machine-stitch long edges and ends in
place, starting and stopping at zipper stitching.
Apply a second row of trim 1”(2.5cm) below first row in
the same manner.
Apply a third row of trim 1”(2.5cm) below second row
in the same manner.
Finish front edge of OVERSKIRT
FRONT (11) with a 5/8”(1.5cm) narrow hem or very narrow hem.
To make a very narrow hem, stitch
1/2”(13mm) from raw edge.
With right sides together, pin lining to
bodice over straps. Adjust gathers;
baste. Stitch upper and armhole edges.
Trim. UNDERSTITCH lining, as far as
possible.
Turn in and press edge alongside
stitching, as shown. Trim very close
to stitching.
Turn in again along trimmed edge.
Stitch in place.
11
For View D, pin applique to overskirt centering over
front opening, having upper edge along bodice seam.
Hand-sew in place.