1
Chapter 2
Chapter 4
Chapter 6
Chapter 17
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
notch
Front Bodice #1
cut 1 fabric on fold
cut 2 with facing
1/2”
extension
facing
use for:
grainline
layout
cutting fabric
pattern markings
darts
seams
collars
closures
center front fold
cut 2
interfacing
Front Bodice #2
stitch to matchpoints
for dart tuck
to complete the pattern join
bodice #1 to #2 at circle
stitch to matchpoints
for dart tucks
front bodice #2
notch
2
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 2
Chapter 4
Chapter 6
Chapter 17
3
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 2
Chapter 4
Chapter 6
Back Bodice #1
center back fold
cut here for center back seam
cut 2 fabric
use for:
grainline
layout
cutting fabric
pattern markings
darts
seams
collars
4
stitch to matchpoints
for dart tuck
front bodice #2
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 2
Chapter 4
notch
Chapter 6
Chapter 17
stitch to matchpoints
for dart tucks
Back Bodice #2
5
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
French Curved Dart
front bodice #1
cut 1
center front place on fold
Chapter 4
6
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
French Curved Dart
Chapter 4
7
Chapter 4
Fisheye/Contoured
Dart
fisheye/contoured
c.f. fold
dart cut 1 in fabric
8
Chapter 4
notch
notch
this is not the stitching
line – it is a guide to show
the difference between the
curved stitching and straight
dart line
Curved Waist Dart
cut 1 in fabric
center front – place on fold
stitching line
9
Chapter 5
facing
cut 1 interfacing
fold line
notch
notch
Square/Round Patch Pocket
cut 1
10
Chapter 5
opening
welt pocket lining cut 1 here
Square/
Round Patch
Pocket Lining
cut 1
use for:
welt pocket
cut 1 in fabric
cut 1 lining
(as above)
11
Chapter 5
width
cut 2 fabric
cut 1 interfacing
Pocket Flap
12
center front
Chapter 5
cut 2
Shorts Front with Angled Side Pocket
13
Chapter 5
Angled Side Pocket
Lining
cut 2
14
Chapter 5
ent
em
lac
tp
cke
po
Angled Side Pocket
cut 2
cut on fold
cut 1 on fold for gathered seam
cut 1 on fold for faced ruffle
cut 1 on fold for single ruffle
cut 1 on fold for straight narrow rolled hem
Straight Fabric Section
cut 1 fabric here on fold for eased seam
cut here for single ruffle
Chapter 6
Chapter 10
Chapter 15
notch
when cut on fold
15
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6
Chapter 11
matchpoint
princess
seam Bodice #1
Princess Seam
Front
front bodice #1
notched/lapel collar
cut 2 fabric
center front
16
to complete the pattern
join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
17
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6
Chapter 11
Princess Seam
front bodice
notched/lapel
collar #2
18
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6
Chapter 11
Princess Seam Side
Front Bodice
cut 2 fabric
front bod
notched/l
collar #2
cut 1 fabric
Concave Curve
19
Chapter 6
cut 1 fabric
Convex Curve
20
Chapter 6
21
Chapter 6
Chapter 9
Chapter 12
Chapter 15
matchpoint
Front Skirt
use for: v shaped seam
waistband
waist facing
bias waist finish
curved a line hem
bias false hem
c. f. fold
cut 1 fabric
22
Chapter 6
Chapter 9
Chapter 12
Front Yoke
use for: v shape seam
waistband
waist facing
bias waist finish
ma
tch
poi
nt
c. f. fold
cut 1 fabric
cut 1 interfacing
23
Chapter 6
Chapter 8
Chapter 9
Chapter 12
Chapter 15
mark dart point here
Back Skirt
cut 2 fabric
use for:
seams
zippers
waistband
waist facing
bias waist finish
curved a-line hem
bias false hem
24
Chapter 6
matchpoint
Godet
cut 1
25
Chapter 6
Princess Seam
Strapless Front Bodice
c. f. fold
cut 1 fabric
cut 2 underlining
notch
26
Chapter 6
cut 2 fabric
cut 2 underlining
Princess Seam
Strapless Side
Front Bodice
box inverted
notch
knife
inverted
knife pleat
notch all pleats (top and bottom)
notch
notch
notch
notch
box inverted
knife pleat
Pleats #1
cut 1,
use for:
inverted
box knife
notch
To complete
the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle
to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle
27
notch all pleats (top and bottom)
notch
notch
box inverted
knife pleat
box inverted
notch
notch
knife pleat
notch
box
pleat
Pleats #2
cut 1,
use for:
inverted
box knife
notch
To complete
the pattern
patternjoinjoin
pleats
#1atto
#2 at circle
to complete
pleats
#1 to #2
circle
28
29
notch
Chapter 7
Chapter 16
matchpoint
matchpoint
Kick Pleat
use for:
kickpleat (cut 2 fabric)
hem split (cut 2 fabric)
vent cut (1 fabric w.s.u)
cut 1 for vent
fold line
cut 2
interfacing
for hemsplit
notch
30
Chapter 7
matchpoint
Kick Pleat
Underlay
cut 1 fabric
31
Chapter 8
matchpoint
here
cut 1 side to
5” zipper length
fly Front
front
Fly
32
Chapter 8
Fly Front
Extension
cut 1 fabric
cut 1 interfacing
To complete the pattern, join waistband #1 to #2 at circle
cut 1/2
interfacing
extension
to complete the pattern, join
waistband #1 to #2 at circle.
cut 1 fabric
Straight
Waistband
straight
waistband #2 #2
cut in fabric
Straight
Waistband
straight waistband
#1 #1
side seam
Chapter 9
cb
33
cut 1/2
interfacing
Chapter 10
Chapter 15
stitch
here
for
nar
ro
w
use for:
single flounce (cut 1)
gathered flounce (cut 2)
overlaping flounce (cut 2)
mock seam (cut 1)
edgestitch (cut 1)
circular narrow
rolled hem (cut 7)
g
s
in
s
” a eam
u
allowance for flo
llo
wan
ed
ce for gather
4”
1/ 2
1/
cutting line
ro
ll
e
d
h
em
grainline
Flounce
flounce
l
n e fl
c
e ounce
34
35
Chapter 11
c.b. fold
Mandarin Collar
cut 2
cut 1 interfacing
36
Chapter 11
cut 2
cut 1 interfacing
c.b. fold
Shirt Collar
37
c.b. fold
Chapter 11
Notched/Lapel
Upper Collar
cut 1
cut 1 interfacing
matchpoint
38
Chapter 11
Notched/Lapel
Under Collar
cut 2 on bias
matchpoint
39
To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle
matchpoint
Notched Lapel
Collar Facing #1
cut 2
cut 2 interfacing
1
ed/lapel
facing #2
to complete the pattern
join facing #1 and #2 at circle
40
cb fold
To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle
cut 1
notched/lapel
collar facing #2
to complete the p
join facing #1 an
cb fold
41
Back Neck
Facing
cut 1
front cut 1 on fold fabric
cut 1 on fold interfacing
Front Neck
Facing
42
Chapter 12
c.f. fold
43
Chapter 12
Back Square
Neck Facing
cut 2 fabric
cut 2 interfacing
44
Chapter 12
Back Waist
Facing
cut 2 fabric
cut 2 interfacing
45
Chapter 13
cut 2 fabric
shirt sleeve placket cut this length
notches
notches
Continuous Placket
46
Chapter 13
cut 2 fabric
fold line
Shirt
Sleeve
Placket
47
Chapter 13
notch
tuck
tuck
Tucked Shirt Sleeve
cut 2 fabric
notch
cut
cuff length to here
continuous placket
cuff length shirt sleeve placket
48
Chapter 13
cut 1/2 interfacing
cut 2
Cuff
49
Chapter 14
Full Size Front Armhole
Eased Set-in Sleeve
cut 2
50
To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 12
Chapter 14
Full Size Back Armhole #1
Eased Set-in Sleeve
cut 2
51
To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle
cut 2
Full Size Back Armhole #2
Eased Set-in Sleeve
Chapter 12
Chapter 14
52
match notch
to shoulder seam
Front Set-in Sleeve
cut 2
Chapter 14
53
Chapter 14
Back Set-in Sleeve
cut 2
54
notch
Chapter 15
matchpoint
notch
Vent
vent
cut 1 fabric
w.s.u.
foldline
interfacing
cut 1
notch
55
notch
Hem Split Lining
hem split lining
use for:
hem split (cut 2 in lining)
vent (cut 1 lining w.s.u.)
matchpoints
notch
Chapter 16
56
notch
Chapter 16
Vent
vent Lining
lining
cut 1 w.s.u.
matchpoint
notch
right front
center front
Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet
Shirt with Front Band and Mandarin Collar
center front
57
left front
Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet
Shirt with No Band or Collar
right front
center front
neckline
center front
58
left front