Sewing Pattern — Dress 4206 Recommendations on fabric: natural / mixed silk fabric, tulle You will also need: lining; blind zipper. If the pattern has double contour the seam allowances are included. Seam allowances are NOT included by default and need to be added when laying out and cutting details if your pattern has single contour. Seam allowance: along the edge of the silk skirt – 3 cm, along the edge of the tulle skirt – 0 cm, along the edge of the lining skirt – 0 cm (cut seam allowance off), other seams -1 cm Attention! First of all please print all the paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric you plan to use (usually from 90 to 150 cm) to see how much fabric you will need. Don't forget to count pair parts and symmetrical parts. When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches, they must coincide. CUTTING: Silk: 1. Upper back part – 1 detail 2. Upper front part – 2 details 3. Front part yoke — 1 detail 4. Skirt – 2 details on fold 5. Bow — 2 details 6. Strap – 1 detail Tulle: 1. Upper back part – 1 detail 2. Upper front part – 2 details 3. Front part yoke — 1 detail 4. Skirt – 2 details on fold (use main fabric pattern to cut) 5. Bow — 2 details (use main fabric pattern to cut) 6. Strap – 1 detail (use main fabric pattern to cut) Lining: (use main fabric pattern to cut) 1. Upper back part – 1 detail 2. Upper front part – 2 details 3. Front part yoke — 1 detail 4. Skirt – 2 details on fold Pattern #4206, page 1 of 3 All sewing patterns at www.lekala.co Note: when cutting the tulle skirt you can place detail both along and across the linen INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Sew darts on upper part of the back on main fabric as well as lining details. Press darts towards center of details. Stitch loosely on upper part of the tulle back along shoulder edges, neckline and lower edge. Gather ruffles. Fix main fabric back part and tulle details together along all edges and then sew as one-layer detail. Put details of main fabric back part and lining right sides together and overstitch the neckline and the armhole. Slash seam allowances on rounded parts, turn details out and press. 2. Stitch loosely on lower edge of upper front part between notches and gather ruffles. Stitch loosely on tulle details of upper front part along shoulder and lower edge. Gather ruffles. Fix details of main fabric front part and tulle together along all edges and then sew as one-layer detail. Put details of main fabric front part and lining right sides together and overstitch the neckline and armhole. Slash seam allowances on rounded parts, turn details out and press. Make a free pleat on lower edge of lining between notches, leveling edge to the length of the yoke. 3. Stitch loosely along side edges of the yoke on tulle detail and gather ruffles. Fix main fabric and tulle yoke details together and then sew as one-layer detail. 4. Fold yoke with lining right sides together, insert upper part of the front between them and level edges, aligning notches. Sew details from the corner, leaving 8 cm to side seam. Stop the stitch, slash seam allowances near the end of the stitch. Sew the rest of the seam separately: front part with the yoke on main fabric details and front part with the yoke on details of lining. Turn details out and press onto yoke. 5. Turn back part onto wrong side, level shoulder edges of main fabric and of lining details and insert shoulder edge of front part between them. Sew shoulder edge. Turn details out, seam press. 6. Fold together back part and front part only of main fabric details along right side edge. Sew right side edge on main fabric details, continuing the stitch on details of lining. Watch that main fabric and lining armhole lines coincide. Press seam apart, turn details out. 7. In the same way sew the se3ction of left side seam between notches, leaving a slit for zipper. Press seam apart, pressing the slit for zipper. 8. Sew separately details of the skirt, leaving a slit for zipper in left side seam. Serge seams on silk and lining. Press right seam, press left seam apart. Press seams on tulle apart. Stitch loosely on top edge of skirts and gather ruffles. Fix main fabric and tulle skirts together along top edge and left side seam section. 9. Fix together details of tulle and main fabric strap and then sew as one-layer detail. Fold the strap in half lengthwise right sides together and overstitch along the long side. Turn detail out and press. Fold the strap in half lengthwise and stitch to lower edge of back part, placing it in the center. 10. Fix together bow details of tulle and main fabric and then sew as one-layer detail. Fold the bow in half right sides together and overstitch short sides and a long side, leaving a slit of 6-8 cm long in the center . Turn the bow out and press. Sew the slit. 11. Sew the skirts and bodice: separately lining to lining, main fabric to main fabric. Press the seam upwards. Sew in the zipper. Stitch open edges of lining to zipper tape. 12. Put the stitch along skirt connecting seam, fixing together main garment and lining. 13. Level the hem line. Overstitch lower edge of silk and lining with baby hem. To do that press seam allowance onto wrong side at 3 cm, stitch at 0.1-0.2 cm off the fold. Cut seam allowance close to the stitch. Turn seam allowance inside once again and put the stitch over previous one. Press the seam. Tulle is not edged. When ready it should be: tulle and silk of same length, lining is 3 cm shorter. 14. Put bows together and run through the strap. Regulate the strap location and tack it to back part by hand. Fasten bows to the strap. Pattern #4206, page 2 of 3 All sewing patterns at www.lekala.co TECHNICAL DRAWING: Pattern #4206, page 3 of 3 All sewing patterns at www.lekala.co
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