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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
1
American Girl Handout #2 Knitted Outfits for 18-Inch Girl Dolls
General Instructions
A trick I have learned: After casting on to get started, ALWAYS knit back across the row IN THE BACK
LOOP OF EACH STITCH. For some reason this always makes a nice line of consistently even stitches without all those sloppy loops I used to get when knitting the first row after casting on. Then plan how the
neckline will look: ribbed for a sweater, a nice garter stitch border, or a seed stitch border for the neck, etc.
To knit through the back of the loop: Insert your needle from right to left, with the RH
needle behind the LH needle, lifting and spreading the back of the loop — the side of
the loop on the opposite side of the needle. Then, wrap the yarn around the needle and
pull a new loop through.
To purl through the back of the loop: Insert your needle through the back of the loop
from right to left and purl as normal.
(from: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-knit-through-theback-of-the-loop.html)
HINT: There is always a strand of yarn dangling at the start of your cast on row.
When working across in the back loops (to finish the cast on neatly) you will end up on the wrong side
(where you decide what to do with the neckline). Purl or knit back to the first cast on stitch (with the
dangling yarn). This dangling thread will be the RIGHT SIDE of your work. Then, if you put it down to
answer the phone, the door, or to switch channels - you will always know if you are on the wrong or RIGHT
SIDE of your knitting when you pick it up again.
REMINDER: Always leave an 8-12 inch strand of yarn whenever you cut the yarn to bind off, when you
finish a sleeve, shorts or pant leg. Attach yarn where indicated in pattern and continue to complete the second
sleeve, etc. Bind off and cut another long strand. You will need these long strands of yarn to sew the seams:
up the back, from panties to neck, sleeve seams, pant legs, and from the dress hemline up to the neck. If you
are sewing the seam for a long gown, such as a bathrobe, party dress, or jumpsuit remember to cut about 14-18
inches to sew the seam.
When making a purse, after binding off, always leave a much longer strand - at least 24 inches - to sew the
seams and to crochet a single chain of at least 50-55 sts for the shoulder strap. This strap can be wound
around the doll’s wrist and it will stay on without getting lost.
HINT: Purchase a knitting book filled with hundreds of stitches or a book of patterns for dishcloths/pot
holders: ribbing, feather and fan, Trinity, mock cable, open lacey patterns, popcorn, etc. You can adapt some
of these fancy stitches for skirts or pant legs.
[From Rhyanna. Check out websites like http://www.lionbrand.com/video/ (you’ll have to join-its free) but
they have videos. Also, check your local library chances are they have a book on knitting stitches with
pictures no less.]
HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
2
American Girl Doll Basic Panties
Materials needed
Us #6 Knitting Needles,
yarn used for the dress/skirt,
place markers.
Instructions
Using #6 US knitting needles and whatever yarn you used for the dress or skirt,
cast on 26 stitches. Rib in K1, P1 for 4 rows. Work in stockinette stitch (knit 1
row, purl 1 row) for 12 rows.
DECREASE: Row 1: Knit 2 stitches together on first and last stitches.
Row 2: Purl 2 stitches together on first and last stitches.
Continue to decrease on EACH ROW until you have 10 stitches on needle.
Work in stockinette. stitch for 10 rows.
INCREASE: Row 1: Knit in front and back of first and last stitch - 2 stitches increased.
Row 2: Increase in first st, purl to last stitch, increase on last st.
Continue to increase on EVERY ROW until you have 26 stitches on the needle.
Work in stockinette stitch for 12 rows. Rib in K1, P1 for 4 rows. Bind off in ribbing. Sew side seams.
Weave in ends. Turn right side out.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The basic top ALWAYS starts with “Cast on 46 stitches” - for dresses, sweaters,
and one-piece jumpsuits. I have found this is the best number of stitches for dressing the doll - ALWAYS
FEET FIRST. She will fit very nicely into this neckline for dresses, ribbed sweaters, jumpsuits, etc.
It might require some tugging to get over her padded little “bottom”, and some slight pulling and/or tugging to
get her arms into the sleeves, but the garment will stretch to fit the doll. That is why I always emphasize to
make outfits as childproof as possible, with lots of KNOTS at the stress points when sewing the seams. I
believe a little bit of tugging works better than sewing on snaps, buttons, zippers, making buttonholes, or
knitting extra rows so you can turn up a hem. Advanced knitters enjoy doing all of the extra things without
even thinking about it, but beginners want to finish quickly so they can admire their creation and get busy
completing the outfit with a cute shrug, hat, purse and/or
boots.
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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American Girl Basic Top Pattern
Materials needed
#6 Knitting needles,
Stitch-Place markers and yarn.
Instructions
Using #6 US knitting needles and sport yarn or fingering yarn, cast on 46
stitches.
Knit across row in the back loops of each stitch.
Neckline:
Knit 6 rows - this will give you 3 garter stitch ridges for the neckline.
Purl across row, placing markers as follows:
Purl 7, Place Marker (PM) - P10 - PM - P12 - PM - P10 - PM - P7 = 46 sts.
Row 1: Knit across increasing BEFORE and AFTER each marker (knit in front and back of st) - 8 sts incr.
Row 2: Purl, slipping markers from left needle to the right needle.
Continue to work rows 1 and 2 until you have 110 sts on needle, divided as follows: 15 (right back), Marker,
26 (sleeve), M, 28 (front), M, (26 sleeve), M, and 15 (left back). End with purl row.
Options for Neckline: (Always cast on 46 stitches)
#1 Work in seed stitch for 3 rows: K1, P1 across row, ending with K1. Next row and all rows:
Knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts. This will make a lovely “bumpy” pattern that is very pretty.
#2 Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 4 rows - this is for sweaters and some dresses.
#3 Make an open, lacy look: Knit 1 row. On wrong side: K1, *Yarn Over, K2tog - continue across row
from * to end, K1. Knit 3 rows. Then purl across, placing markers to increase for raglan sleeves.
NOTE: “Yarn Over” means (while knitting) bring strand of yarn to the front, then knit the next 2 stitches
together. This will keep the stitch count even at 26 stitches, even though you knit 2 sts together - the YO will
form the missing stitch.
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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Cap Sleeves:
Row 1: Knit 15, remove marker, BIND OFF next 26 sleeve sts, remove marker,
knit 28, remove marker, BIND OFF 26 sleeve sts, remove marker, knit 15.
Row 2: Purl across row, PURL 2 STITCHES TOGETHER AT UNDERARM,
connecting the back with the front pieces. Approx. 54 sts on needle.
NOTE: (Ignore the first 15 sts on the needle - will be worked later). To “bind off”
while knitting: knit 2 sts, then pull the first stitch over and off the second st on the
needle. You now have one stitch on the right needle. Knit 1 and pull the first st over
and off the stitch just knitted. Keep binding off the required number of stitches,
remove the marker and bind off the 26th stitch. Then knit across the body of the garment to the next sleeve
strap. Remove marker, do this “bind off” technique once again, remove the marker, bind off the 26th stitch.
Then continue to knit across the remaining 15 stitches of the body to the end of the row.
Mid to Long Sleeves:
Knit 15, remove marker, now work ONLY ON THE 26 sleeve sts, knit
26, remove marker, TURN and purl back on only the 26 sleeve sts
(remember to carefully count these stitches for the first few rows). Work
back and forth on only these 26 sts for 12-15 rows for mid length sleeve, or
16-18 rows for long sleeves. Then on either mid or long sleeves, work 6
rows in garter stitch (knit every row) to match the neckline. Bind off in
knit.
(Rhyanna here – I think these are mid-sleeves)
For sweaters with ribbing at neckline: Finish sleeves with 4 rows
of ribbing to match neckline.
Attach yarn at underarm and work across 28 sts of the body, remove marker, work only on the next 26 sleeve
sts, remove marker, TURN and purl back on the 26 sleeve sts - knitting and purling the same as the first
sleeve. Bind off in knit. Attach yarn at underarm and work across the remaining 15 stitches.
Next Row: On wrong side, purl across row, PURL 2 STITCHES TOGETHER AT EACH
UNDERARM, connecting the back with the front pieces. Approx. 52-54 stitches on needle.
IMPORTANT: This 18” doll has hands and fingers wider than her actual arm measurement. Be sure you
have at least 22 stitches on the sleeves when binding off, in order to get it on over her hands. This note is
made in case you plan to widen the sleeves for a “full sleeve blouse” effect - then decrease to a tighter cuff
before binding off.
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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Options for Sleeves:
#1: Long sweater sleeves: On 26 sleeve sts work in stockinette stitch (with
or without a fancy stitch pattern) for 18 rows. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 4 rows
- to match ribbing at neckline.
#2: Open lacy sleeves: Row 1: On 26 sleeve stitches knit 3 rows.
Next Row: On wrong side - K1, *yarn over, K2 tog, continue from * across
row, ending K1.
Repeat these four rows four times. End with Row 1. Bind off in knit.
#3: Wide-open sleeve: When starting to work the 26 sleeve stitches, INCREASE in first and last stitch
ON KNIT SIDE ONLY. Purl back across the row.
Work in stockinette stitch (increasing on knit side only) for 12-15 rows. Knit 2 rows. Bind off.
#4 Full, puffy sleeves: This is for more advanced knitters. After you have placed the markers, when
you work the first increase for the sleeves - INCREASE in every stitch across the row (10 sts to begin - end
with 20). Continue across the row, increasing between markers for second sleeve. Purl back across entire row
for raglan shaping. Next Row: Increase in every other sleeve stitch across the row. (20 = 30 sts). Work
across entire row, increasing at second sleeve. Purl back. Increase in every other stitch across the next row.
(30 = 45 sts). Purl back across entire row. When you have finished the raglan shaping for the entire garment,
you will have 45 sleeve stitches between markers for each sleeve. Work across the first 15 sts, remove
marker, work on ONLY THE 45 SLEEVE STS. Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch. Next Row: K2
together across row = 23 sts. Knit 1 row. Bind off in knit. Attach yarn at underarm, knit across front,
remove marker, work on ONLY THE 45 SLEEVE STS, same as the first sleeve. Attach yarn at underarm
and work across the final 15 sts on the needle. Purl back, PURL 2 STS TOGETHER AT UNDERARMS.
52 sts on needle.
You will be working on BOTH sleeves as you do the raglan shaping - this will put many stitches on the
needle. Try to use a circular needle for making these full, puffy sleeves.
Body: (Should have 52-54 stitches on needle after completing sleeves)
Work in stockinette stitch until body of garment is at doll’s waistline. (Hold up to doll to measure - or knit
for 3-4 inches to get to waist).
Work 6 rows in garter stitch to finish top to match sleeves and neckline. Bind off in knit. Sew sleeve seams
and back seam. Weave in ends.
For long-sleeved sweater with ribbing at neck and sleeves, after working in stockinette. St for 3-4 inches,
work 8 rows in ribbing. Bind off in ribbing. Sew back and sleeve seams. Weave in ends.
Continued on the next page
HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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Attach Panties to Top:
At the waistline of top piece - on the WRONG SIDE - use a larger needle and
KNIT across row. This will put the 52 purl nubs on the RIGHT SIDE of the
garment in order to attach the skirt later
Go back to the regular #6 knitting needle and continue in stockinette stitch. for 8
rows.
Next Row: Increase in first stitch, knit 26 sts, place marker, knit 26 sts and
increase in last st.
Next Row: Increase in first stitch, INCREASE BEFORE and AFTER marker,
knit and increase in last stitch. Continue until there are 68 sts on needle.
Next Row: Knit across 34 sts, remove marker, TURN and work back on the 34
sts of one leg of panties. Work 6 rows. Bind off in knit.
Attach yarn and work across remaining 34 sts for second leg. Work 6 rows. Bind off in knit. Sew seams
for legs and up the back. Do not sew back seam if adding a skirt!
Attaching Skirt to Panties:
If you plan to attach a skirt, with the panties attached, work the following:
When bind off is complete for top and panties, hold it up with the panties at the
top and the bodice at the bottom - RIGHT SIDE towards you. Fold down the
panties toward the back at the waistline. You will now be able to see the little
purl nubs.
Use a smaller knitting needle that will
slip easily through the nubs. Thread this
needle into the first nub, then the
second, third, fourth, etc. until you have
all the nubs on the needle - no knitting,
just use the bare needle to do this - you just want to get all those little
nubs onto a needle. (A double-pointed needle works great!)
Now, whichever is easier for you, with a strand of yarn to be used for
the skirt, either knit or purl across the row, working the nubs off the smaller needle and onto your regular
needle. If you didn’t pick up all 52 nubs while knitting or purling across this row, pick them up on the next
row, or just add stitches by increasing in a few stitches - no problem - the object is to get 54 stitches on the
needle at the waistline so you can work the skirt; either a nicely full dress skirt or a really FULL ballerina or
skating skirt.
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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For a dress skirt: Knit and increase in every other stitch across the row.
For a fuller skirt, knit and increase in every stitch across the row. Work 2830 rows. Knit 2 rows. Bind off in knit.
For a ballerina or skating skirt:
Knit in front, back and front of each stitch, two sts
increased in each st. Some knitters prefer to knit,
purl, and knit in each stitch - your choice. Switch to
#8 or #10 knitting needles (optional) and work in
garter stitch until you reach the bottom of the
panties. Bind off in knit. (It’s cute to see a little bit of the panties showing in this
costume!)
Options for Dress Pattern Designs:
#1: The easiest - for beginners - work entire dress in garter stitch (knit every row). The cap sleeve
works best for beginners. Work bodice 3-4 inches to reach almost to waistline. Use a contrasting color for a
“belt” - drop the yarn used for the bodice, pick up a contrasting color - just hold the strand of yarn behind the
beginning of the row and knit across. Be sure you KNOT the two yarn strands together when dress is
finished - make it childproof! Knit the contrasting color for 6 rows. Drop CC, pick up the main color (MC),
and knit 2 rows. Increase in every stitch - or increase in every other stitch - depending on how full you want
the skirt to be. Knit every row for the next 25-30 rows, depending on how long you want the dress to be.
Bind off.
#2 Slip Stitch skirt: Work in dress pattern of your choice (neckline, sleeves and bodice to waistline).
Increase in every other stitch for nice full skirt.
Row 1: K1, slip 1 as if to purl across row, ending with K1.
Row 2: Purl. Work this pattern for 20 rows. Knit 6 rows for hemline. Bind off in knit.
#3: Basket weave skirt: Work dress to waistline. Increase in every other stitch for full skirt.
Rows 1,2,3,and 4: Knit 4, Purl 4 across rows, ending Purl 4.
Rows 5,6,7, and 8: Purl 4, Knit 4 across rows, ending Knit 4
Repeat Rows 1-4 and Rows 5-8 two more times - approx. 24 rows.
Knit 6 rows. Bind off in knit. Suggestion: This pattern works best with light colors, so you can see the
pattern better.
#4: Checkered skirt: Select two colors for this dress, the main color (MC) for the bodice and skirt and
the contrasting color (CC ).
Suggestion: Dark rose with light pink, beige with chocolate brown, or lavender with dark purple, or yellow
with bright orange, or mint green with deep red.
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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Checkered Skirt continued
Work the neckline in CC, trim the last 2 rows of the sleeves with CC. Work the bodice in MC down to
waistline. Pick up CC and work 6 rows garter stitch at waistline for “belt”. Pick up MC. Increase 8 stitches
evenly spaced across the row = 60- 62 sts. Purl back.
Row 1: Drop MC, pick up CC: Knit 2 CC, slip 2 stitches as if to purl in MC (already on the needle), knit 2
CC, slip 2 sts in MC - across the row.
Row 2: Purl back all stitches with CC.
Row 3: Drop CC, pick up MC: Knit 2 MC, slip 2 sts in CC, K2 MC, slip 2 CC across the row.
Row 4: Purl back all stitches with MC.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until you get to the desired length: mini (above the knees), at the knees, or down to the
floor. (It’s fun to make a very short mini skirt, then add boots in MC to complete the outfit!)
#5: Striped skirt: Select two, three or four colors. Suggestion: gold, sage green, bright orange and
chocolate brown. Pale blue, dark blue, pink and white. Beige, brick (red/brown), bright gold and neon green.
This is also very effective if one of your colors is angora ,furry or sparkly yarn. Work this skirt in
stockinette. stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row), except for the angora, furry or sparkly yarn - work this in rows of
garter stitch (knit every row). Work at least 6 rows in one color, change to another color and work 4 or 6
rows, then work 2 rows of furry yarn. Work until you reach the desired length, 20-24 rows. Work 6 rows in
garter stitch. Bind off in knit.
#6: Seed Stitch skirt (and sleeves): Work the neckline in 6 rows of seed stitch (k1,p1 across row - when
working the next row, knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts). This can be time consuming for a beginning
knitter, but it is really lovely when completed. Nice little bumps all over the sleeves and skirt - really cute!
This is also a good way for beginners to recognize what the stitches look like on the needles: if there is a little
bumpy stitch facing you, it means you purled that stitch on the other side. If the stitch is flat and has a tiny
“v” shape, you knit that stitch. This seed stitch can be done to finish both sleeves (after the raglan shaping,
when you are working on only the 26 sleeve sts).
When you knit the stockinette stitch bodice down to the regular waistline, work across the 52-54 stitches and
increase in every other - or every stitch for the skirt. At this time, you have the option of switching to a larger
needle: #8 or #10 to work the skirt.
Suggestion: Use one color for the dress using the seed stitch - a lighter color will be more effective. Try
pale pink, baby blue, pale yellow, cream or even white for a First Communion Gown or a long
Bridesmaid/Flower Girl dress.
#7: Open Lacy Skirt: This is a very open pattern and looks terrific on bathrobes with matching open
sleeves. If you use it for a full skirted dress (maybe with plain cap sleeves), you must be sure to work the skirt
in a solid knit (either stockinette. st. or garter st) below her panty line - this is too open for the entire skirt on a
little girl’s dress!
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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Open Lacy Skirt Continued
This pattern works with body in both stockinette stitch and garter stitch. However, the skirt stitches pattern is
all knitting:
Rows 1-2-and 3: Knit
Row 4: Wrong Side (WS) - K1 -*yarn over (YO), K2 tog, continue from * across row, end K1.
Repeat these 4 rows until desired length of skirt - either regular dress or long gown.
#8: Patterned Straight Skirt: This pattern works very well with a high empire waistline, just after the
sleeves are completed and the body stitches are all together on one needle. 52-54 sts.
Suggestion: This dress looks good in a solid light to mid color - no dark colors. However, if you want to
be creative, you can select two colors, one color for the top and sleeves (a dark color like Navy Blue,
Chocolate Brown, Emerald Green, Deep Red, etc., and use a lighter color for the patterned skirt - baby blue,
light gold, white or very light green, pink, etc.)
After completing sleeves, at empire waist, increase 8 sts evenly across row. 60-62 sts. Purl back.
You have the option of using a larger needle, #8 instead of the usual #6.
Row 1: RIGHT SIDE - K1-*P1 -KEEP YARN TO FRONT - slip 1 as if to purl, repeat from * to last two
sts, P1 -K1
Row 2: Wrong Side - K1 *P1, K1, repeat from * across row.
Row 3: (RS) - Knit
Row 4: (WS) - K1 - Purl to last stitch - K1.
Repeat these four rows for 5-6 inches - this should be a short tight mini-skirt. End with Knit 2 rows. Bind
off in knit. Sew back seam.
This dress will go nicely with a pair of long boots in the dark color used for the top. A hat and purse in both
colors would look cute, too.
#9: Alternate Rib Pattern: This pattern looks good on a bodice or pant legs. Don’t try it on sleeves or
tiny garments, such as purses or hats. Suggest a light color in order to see the pattern stitches.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K4, P4
Row 4: P4, K4 - repeat these four rows for the pattern to waist. Use cap sleeves. Do the regular raglan
increases and don’t worry if you get “off” from the K4, P4 - it will work out in the end. Easier to do this
pattern on straight pant legs.
Continued on the next page
HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
10
BOOTS
Make 2: Using #6 US knitting needles and yarn to match the outfit you are
working on, cast on 18 stitches. Knit 8 rows in garter stitch for top of boot.
Stock. St. (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for 10 rows. Turn Heel: Knit 2 tog on first
and last two stitches. Purl 2 tog on first and last two stitches. 14 sts. Knit 8 rows
in stockinette st. Knit 2 sts tog on first and last two sts. 12 sts. Purl 1 row. Cut
yarn, leaving a 12-inch strand. Thread this strand onto a darning needle and
thread the needle through the remaining 12 sts. Pull up tightly, KNOT securely
2-3 times. Sew seam to top of boot. Weave in ends. Turn RIGHT SIDE out.
American Girl Basic Hat
Materials needed
Using #6 knitting needles,
stitch-place markers
sport weight yarn or fingering yarn:
Instructions
Cast on 54 stitches.
Rib in K1, P1 for 12 rows. Change to stockinette stitch (K1 row, P1 row) for 12 rows. KNIT 2 ROWS.
Knit 5, *K2 tog, k5, continue from * across row to end.
Purl 4, *P2 tog, P4 across row.
K3, *K2 tog across row.
P2, *P2 tog across row.
K1, *K2 tog across row.
DO NOT BIND OFF. Cut 12-inch strand. Thread this strand onto darning needle and pull darning needle
through stitches on knitting needle. Pull up stitches - TIGHTLY - KNOT SECURELY. Weave in ends.
Sew back seam.
Variations for Basic Hat:
#1: Hat with Narrow Brim: Cast on 108 sts for brim. Knit 10 rows. Next Row: Knit 2 together across
row. 54 sts Purl 1 row. Work in stockinette.st. for 18 rows, KNIT 2 ROWS. Decrease and finish same as
Basic Hat above. Turn up brim on the sides - mold with your hands until it turns up nicely, with part of the
brim dipping down in the front.
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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Variations for Basic Hat continued
#2: Hat with Wide Brim: Cast on 108 sts. Knit 20 rows. Knit 2 tog across row. 54
sts. Purl 1 row. Work in stockinette.st. for 18 rows, KNIT 2 ROWS. Decrease and
finish same as Basic Hat. Turn up brim on the sides - mold with hands to make it look
like a cowboy hat.
#3: Sunbonnet: Work Basic Hat pattern. When hat is complete, make crochet chain
stitches, as follows: Attach to hat, chain 4, single crochet into hat leaving a tiny loop,
chain 4, single crochet into hat. Continue completely around the hat. Then work the
chain 4 into each loop, making at least 6 to 8 rows of chain crochet loops around the hat giving it an open lacy look.
(I don’t know how to crochet, so I’m sure all you knitters who also know how to crochet
will be able to make a spectacular sunbonnet!
#4: Bonnet with Full, Wide Brim: Cast on 162 stitches. Knit 2 rows. Work in stockinette.st. for 20
rows. Knit 3 together across row = 54 sts. Knit 1 row - TIGHTLY to keep all the hat brim stitches together
and not spread out across the needle. This will give you a big “ruffle” effect for the hat brim. Purl 1 row Tightly. Work the Basic Hat instructions.
Note: For these wide brimmed hats, I have found it is almost necessary to make a chain stitch on each side
of the hat (as it fits on the head) about 50-60 chains, in order to tie the two strands under her chin. The hat
won’t fall off and get lost while the little girl plays with her doll.
BASIC SHORTS OR LONG PANTS
Long Pants
Materials Needed
Use #6 US knitting needles,
Place-Stitch Markers
sport weight, baby yarn or fingering yarn
Instructions
Cast on 52 sts. Rib in K1, P1 for 8 rows. Work in stockinette.st. for 8 rows.
Next Row: Increase in FIRST stitch, knit 26 sts, PLACE MARKER, knit 26 stitches, increase in LAST
stitch.
Next Row: Increase in FIRST stitch, increase BEFORE and AFTER marker, increase in LAST st.
Continue until there are 68 sts on needle.
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HANDOUT #2- 18-INCH KNITTED DOLL CLOTHES
created –copyrighted © May 2011 Elaine Baker – a.k.a. Ladyfingers
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Long Pants continued
Knit across 34 sts, remove marker, TURN and purl back on 34 sts for the first leg. Work in Stockinette St.
for 38 rows. Knit 4 rows. Bind off. Leave a long strand to sew up pant seam.
Attach yarn and knit across remaining 34 sts for second pant leg. Stock. St. for 38 rows. Knit 4 rows. Bind
off. Leave another long strand to sew this pant leg and up to waistline.
You will increase in the center of the pants in order to accommodate the doll’s “puffy” cloth body.
Walking Shorts:
Materials needed
Use #6 US knitting needles, sport weight, baby yarn or fingering yarn.
Work in ribbing for 4 rows, then Garter Stitch (knit every row) for the entire pattern.
Work instructions for Long Pants (above) until you have 68 sts on needle.
Knit across 34 sts, remove marker, TURN and knit back on these 34 sts for 18 rows. Bind off. Leave a
strand to sew seam. Attach yarn and knit across remaining 34 sts for second leg. Knit for 18 rows. Bind
off. Leave strand to leg seam and back seam. When garment is complete, turn up a cuff on each pant leg.
***Options for Pants:
#1 Easy - for beginners: Choose two colors: Main color (MC) and Contrasting Color (CC), work ribbing
in MC, drop MC and pick up CC, work in CC for 2 rows, drop CC, pick up MC, work for 2 rows.
Alternating MC and CC, work each stripe in K1 row, P1 row, Ending with 4 rows of MC. This makes it easy
to count the number of rows completed (one stripe = 2 rows). The dropped color will follow you down the
pant leg as you knit the stripes. When it’s time to sew the seams, make sure you KNOT SECURELY the
two colors at the beginning of the garment and when you have bound off and are ready to sew the seams.
#2 Work the pattern until you have 68 sts on the needle and are ready to knit each pant leg:
Knit across 34 sts for first leg, TURN and work back on these same 34 sts. Now you can begin a fancy stitch
pattern (See Options for Dress Patterns above).
#3 If you want to make pants with flared legs: Work stockinette stitch for 19 rows.
Then increase on first and last st on every knit row for 19 rows. Knit 4 rows. Bind off in knit.
#4: Pajama pants look great with the “open lacy” pattern (see Options for Sleeves above), worked on the legs
only.