Fitting Commercial Patterns: Pants & Skirts My Label Overlay Debbi Lashbrook [email protected] New to My Label??? OVERLAY: Steps Involved • • • • • • • • Press all pattern pieces What happened to the dart? What type of ease does the pattern have? Decide what My Label pattern to use to check the fit. Pin pattern pieces together if needed. Overlay and align the patterns. Analyze differences. Alter the commercial pattern. Ease Allowances Hip ease for style: Close fitting Fitted Semi-fitted Loose fit Very loose fit 0-2” 2 1/8-3” 3 1/8-4” 4 1/8-6” Over 6” Checking Ease: Printed on Patterns • Actual Hip Measurement My Label Patterns: Skirts • Use basic skirt pattern for straight or slightly flared skirts • Can convert dart of straight skirt to flare to check with A-line skirt designs • Use gored pattern for skirts with panels or with fullness Critical Areas of Fit: Skirt • • • • Waist circumference High hip circumference Hip circumference Pitch of waist Skirts: Fitted Skirts • Inset pockets • Some views have gathers rather than darts Pattern Diagram • Always look at pattern guide Align CF + Waist at CF • Check waist, high hip, and hip Align CB and Waist • Check waist, high hip, and hip Waist Fit: Compare Dart Take-Up Skirts: Fitted Skirt • A-line skirt • Elastic waist • Seam details Pattern Diagram Converting Straight Skirt to Flared • Draw slash line from bottom of dart • Match dart legs; flare opens from bottom of dart Balance Side Seams • Place front & back pattern pieces rst • Redraw side seam • Divide difference between front + back • Add to front; subtract from back Align CF and Waistline at CF Front + Back • Front + back are the same in commercial pattern Gored Skirt • High-waisted skirt • Flared hem/gored Pattern Guide • CF/CB panel is same • Side panels—cut 4 • Faced waist My Label Gored Skirt • Align waist mark of pattern with waist of ML; align CF fold line of pattern with stitching line at CF of ML pattern • Check for 5/8” seam allowance overlap Waist Shaping Comparison of Back Pieces • Commercial pattern uses same pieces as for front Straight Gore Skirt • Two options to compare: – Print ML straight gore – Use ML straight skirt For Straight ML Gore • Make hem opening = hip Compare Fronts • Overlap of seam allowance down front panel Compare Back • Place pieces together • CB on fold of commercial pattern; seam line of ML pattern • Measure waistline Skirt with Yoke • Use ML Pleated Skirt Compare Front • Align CF and waistline seam • Must slash yoke from end of dart to side so pattern will be flat • Check for fit along side seam Compare Back • Align CB and waistline seam • Slash to side seam at end of dart for flat pattern Which ML Pattern? • Compare to full front pattern Which ML Pattern? Pants • Draw crotch line on pattern • Decide which ML pattern to use for comparison • Align CF seam + drawn crotch line • Alter the commercial pattern as needed Preparing Patterns • Draw crotch line on pattern • Perpendicular to grain • At intersection of CF/CB & inseam stitching lines Draw Crotch Line • Mark intersection of inner leg seam and crotch seamline • Draw line from this point perpendicular to grain line Alignment • Align at drawn crotch line & CF/CB seam Pant Waistband Styles • Pleated pant: One or two pleats in front; darts or elasticized in back; Straight waistband • Pull-on pant: Elasticized waist; varies in amount of ease added; may have attached straight waistband or turn down band • Flat front pant: Darts in front + back, faced waist or straight waist band • Contoured waist pant: Curved waistband, darts in back, not often in front, lower rise • High-waisted pant: Waistline extends above natural waistline; uses fish-eye dart; faced Pant Fit Styles • • • • • • Trouser Slack Culotte Jeans Relaxed jeans Leggings Leg Definitions: Style Properties • Straight Leg: Fit to the hip and fall straight down from the hip • Tapered Leg: Fit snug to the knee; then taper to the hem • Boot Cut Leg: Fit snug to the knee; then flare out below the knee • Flares/Bell Bottoms: Exaggerated flare from the knee to hem Leg Width • • • • Tapered: 14.5” Straight leg: 19.5” Boot Cut: 16.5” Wide Leg: 22.5” Rise of Pant: Distance between the crotch and the waist • High rise: Above the narrowest part of waist • Regular rise: About 12”; positions the band at your natural waist • Just below waist: Sit just below natural waist or just below belly button (10-11”) • Low rise: 8”, but may measure as little as 3-4” “Body Type” Pants • Levi’s Curve ID: – Slight Curve – Demi Curve – Bold Curve There are patterns made like this as well. Side seam shape • Slim, average, and curvy fit • Hip measurements have 1/2” difference between each type • Contoured waistband Body Curve Patterns Front Back Body Curve Patterns Average Compared to Curvy Slim Compared to Average Body Curve Patterns • Extra in crotch extensions Fitting Challenges • Hip Curves—shape of side seam – Waist to Hip important measurement Adjusting Style Properties Pant Fit • • • • • Crotch depth Crotch length Pitch of pant Length of pant Waist/hip circumference • Side seam shape (waist/high hip/hip ratio) • Hang of pant leg • Shape of crotch seam Pitch • Relationship between front waist position and back waist position Measurements for Pants • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Height Waist Height Crotch Height Hip Height High Hip Height Knee Height Pitch Total Crotch Length + front and back Waist to Hip True Rise Waist Hip at Crotch Hip High hip Which pattern to use???? • For elastic-banded pants, use pull-on pants • For fitted pants, use flared pant • For pleated pants, use pleated trouser • For jeans, use jean pattern Pant: Elastic • • • • Straight leg Inner leg seam only Flat waistband in front Elastic in sides and back Pattern Diagram Valencia Pant • Align at crotch depth line Overlay Pant: Fitted • Straight legged pant • Contoured waist + facing • Front + back darts • Side zipper Pattern diagram Using My Label as Overlay • Use the flared pant to check the fit of fitted pants patterns • Pin the waistband to the top of the pant patterns in front and back Alignment of Patterns • CF seam • Crotch line Front pant: Fit Check Points • • • • Crotch depth Pitch of pant Crotch length Circumference Size of Dart/Curve of Seam Back Pant Side Seam Check • Pin dart in Mimosa • Align seamlines of ML band with pant • Compare to ML pattern Pleated Pant • Fly front zipper • Side slash pocket • Buttoned waistband sets above the waist Pattern Diagram • Pieces C, G, H Front Front Back Back Dart Flat Front • Slightly below waistline • Rise measures 10 5/8” for size 14 Front Back Low Rise Pants • Upper edge of waistband 1 ½” below waist Pattern Guide Sheet • Straight band; not contoured Front + Back High-waisted pant • • • • Straight-legged Raised waist Front tucks Elastic back w/ zipper Pattern Diagram Front Front Waistline Back Back Waistline Knit Pants • Pull on pants • Knits only Alignment Leggings • Two-way stretch • No ML equivalent • Pull on pant Leggings Leggings + Pull On Pant Jeans • • • • Read description: Fit Waistband Leg width Front Jean Back Jean Pant Alterations Crotch Depth • Slash across pattern • Spread/tuck an even amount Pant Alterations Crotch Length • Change according to measurements; front and back crotch length • Slash from CB/CF to side seam • Forms wedge to add more length to crotch Pant Alterations Crotch extensions • Adds to crotch length • Also to thighs Crotch Extension Pant Alterations Pitch of Pant • Upward pulls toward upper hip side seam Shape of Crotch Seam • American vs. European Fit in crotch curve Bagginess below seat • “Dart” from inner leg to outer
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