10/2011 Leather trench coat
By: burda style magazine
http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/102011-leather-trench-coat
Leather trench coat burda style magazine patterns FAQ
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Materials
Imitation leather
Step 1 — Preparation
Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:
This pattern is printed on 8.5″ × 11″ sheets of plain paper. Do not scale or center pages before printing. Wait
until all sheets are printed out before beginning to tape them together. Do not cut out pattern pieces yet—
Arrange the sheets on a large, hard, flat surface so that they fit together, matching up like numbers and letters
(i.e. 6A to 6A). To tape pattern together, fold under the margin of one piece (6A) and tape right against the
line of it’s matching number/letter (6A).
burda style magazine pattern do not have seam allowance included.
Seam and hem allowances to be added: Seams and edges 1.5 cm (5/8 in).
Step 2 — Cutting out
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Imitation leather:
â—’1â—¯centre front 2x
â—’2â—¯side front 2x
â—’3â—¯centre back 2x
â—’4â—¯side back 2x
â—’5â—¯upper sleeve 2x
â—’6â—¯under sleeve 2x
â—’7â—¯under collar, on a fold 1x
â—’8â—¯outer collar band, on a fold 1x
12â—¯pocket 2x
a) tie belt, 145 â— 150 â— 150 â— 155 â— 160 cm (57 â— 59 â— 59 â— 61 â— 63 ins) long,
5 cm (2 ins) wide.
Note: Cut pieces 1 to 4 widthwise â— the border runs approx. 3 cm (11/4 ins) above the undercollar hem
line.
Flannel (lining):
â—’1â—¯centre front 2x
â—’2â—¯side front 2x
â—’3â—¯centre back 2x
â—’4â—¯side back 2x
â—’5â—¯upper sleeve 2x
â—’6â—¯under sleeve 2x
â—’7â—¯top collar, on a fold 1x
â—’8â—¯inside collar band, on a fold 1x
12â—¯pocket 2x
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a) tie belt, 145 â— 150 â— 150 â— 155 â— 160 cm (57 â— 59 â— 59 â— 61 â— 63 ins) long,
5 cm (2 ins) wide.
Interfacing: See pattern layout.
Step 3 — Darts
Stitch darts in centre fronts. Cut the darts along the centre and press open, pressing points of darts flat. Stitch
the centre back seam, front and back section seams, side seams and shoulder seams. Press the seam
allowances open.
Step 4 — Patch pockets
Stitch the pocket pieces of outer fabric and lining right sides together around all edges, leaving a section of
seam open, for turning. Turn the pockets right side facing out. Sew seam opening closed. Edgestitch pockets
to coat, at marked abutting lines.
nâ—’Stitch the outer collar band to the under collar (seam number 4). Trim the seam allowances and press
open. Topstitch close to each side of the seam.
Step 5 — Collar
Stitch the under collar with collar band to the neck edge of the coat, beginning and ending on the lapel,
exactly at the marking and clipping the seam allowance into front corners of neck edge. Clip the seam
allowance of the fronts at the marking. Press the allowances of the collar joining seam open.
Step 6 — Sleeves
Stitch sleeve seams.
Step 7 — Sleeve caps
Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.
Step 8 — Loops
At waist level, make thread loops, approx. 8 cm (31/4 ins) long, over side seams. To do this, stretch 3â— 4
threads and cover with buttonhole stitches.
Step 9 — Darts and lining
Stitch darts and seams of the lining, leaving approx. 30 â— 40 cm (12 â— 16 ins) open in centre of one
side seam, for turning.
Step 10 — Collar
Stitch the inside collar band to the top collar (seam number 4). Trim the seam allowances and press open.
Topstitch close to each side of the seam.
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Step 11 — Neck
Stitch the top collar with collar band to neck edge of lining, clipping the seam allowance of the lining into the
corners and at ends of seams. Press seam allowances open.
Step 12 — Face coat
Pin lining right sides together with coat. Pin the lapel fold lines together. Lay the top collar on the under
collar. Pin the collar joining seams together. Roll the collar and lapels and pin the outer edges together. Stitch
along hem edges, front edges, and edges of lapels, up to marking, not catching allowances of collar. Then
stitch along edges of collar, not catching allowances of lapel edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn coat right
side out through opening in side seam of lining. Press edges. Pin collar joining seams together exactly, from
corner to corner. Reach into coat through opening in side seam, grasp seam allowances of collar joining
seam, and pull them out. Stitch allowances together, close to collar joining seam. Push collar joining seam in
place again. Pull sleeve linings into sleeves of coat. Turn in lower edges of each sleeve and lining, at one
seam, and hold with a single straight pin. Reach between coat and lining and first pull out one sleeve.
Remove the straight pin but keep hold of the edges. Stitch sleeve and lining edges together, right sides
facing. Then, from right side of coat, pull out the sleeve and the sleeve lining will be pulled into the coat
sleeve. Sew lower edge of second sleeve in same manner. Sew opening in seam of lining closed.
Step 13 — Topstitch
Topstitch 7 mm (1/4 in) from front edges and from edges of lapels and collar. Topstitch lower sleeve edges.
Step 14 — Tie belt
Lay both belt pieces right sides facing. Trim ends at an angle. Stitch edges together, leaving a section of seam
open for turning. Turn belt right side out and sew opening closed. Topstitch close to edges of belt.
Step 15 — Tie belt
Lay both belt pieces right sides facing. Trim ends at an angle. Stitch edges together, leaving a section of seam
open for turning. Turn belt right side out and sew opening closed. Topstitch close to edges of belt.
10/2011 Leather trench coat
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