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Beret, Chef, or Vintage Hat
by: sewingmel
Free Patterns,Ideas and Inspirations
All compliments of SewingMamas.com
You will need:
Fabric
Lightweight interfacing
¾” Elastic
Paper for pattern drafting
Sewing Machine
Serger (optional)
Matching thread
Non-matching thread (optional)
You can use this pattern to make a beret, a chef's hat, or a vintage hat. I made this hat to go with a pair
of 1920's style golfing pants.
Step 1: Make your pattern. Draw a 21” diameter circle for adults, or draw a 14-15” diameter circle for
kids. The easiest way I have found to do this is to fold a large piece of paper into fourths and draw my
radius from there.
Step 2: Cut out 1 circle of fabric. If you are making more than one hat, you can layer the fabric neatly
and cut all layers at once.
Step 3: Pick a side of fabric to be the “right” side and mark with a sewing pin if your fabric does not
have an obvious right or wrong side. Make sure to mark the same side of your band when you cut it
later.
Step 4: Mark four quarter points on circle. If you divided you pattern paper into fourths, this will be
easier to mark.
Step 5: Cut 2 strips of fabric and two strips of interfacing for the band. Measure your head, add 2.5
inches, and divide that number in half.
For a 21” head: Cut 2 pieces of fabric 11.75 inches long by 3 inches tall for the band.
If you would like to have a chef hat, just make your band taller. Use a 5-7” band instead.
Step 6: Fuse interfacing to wrong side of each band piece.
Step 7: Fold each band piece in half with interfacing touching interfacing. Iron, and unfold.
Step 8: Cut a piece of ¾” elastic 1-2 inches shorter than one band piece.
Step 9: Anchor elastic on one side of one band piece. Keep the elastic next to the fold.
Step 10: Anchor other side of elastic.
Step 11: Match pattern if possible.
Step 12: Sew both sides together using 1/4” seam allowance. If you would like to use a larger seam
allowance, make sure to cut your band pieces bigger.
Step 13: (Optional) Serge or zig-zag edges.
Step 14: Fold band along pre-ironed fold line.
Step 15: Baste raw edges with 1/4” seam allowance.
Step 16: Mark quarter points on band.
Step 17: Make 1 row of basting stitches (longest stitch length) at 1/4” on the circle part of the hat. To
make it easier to gather, divide the hat into halves or quarters. Make a new gather line at each point
leaving a long tail of thread. To make your gathering lines easier to see, you could use a contrasting
thread for all gathering/basting stitches.
Step 18: Make another row of basting stitches about 5/8”-1” away from the first. Make sure to divide
the gathering breaks the same as you did for the first row.
Step 19: Match marked quarter points on band and circle part of hat.
Step 20: Pull up gathers to make both pieces match. To gather, pull the pieces that are side by side and
on the same side. Your fabric should gather easily. Do NOT pull all four pieces at once. That will not
gather.
Step 21: Carefully pin gathered side to band.
Step 22: When you get to the elastic casing, pull the elastic so that your fabric is flat. Pin carefully.
Step 23: Work your way around until it is all pinned.
Step 24: Sew between your 2 gathering lines. Use a 3/8” or 1/2” seam allowance.
Step 25: Pull out basting stitches. If you used a contrasting thread, this will be easy to see. If you are
lucky, you will be able to gently pull on the string and have it come out. You may need to use a seam
ripper to help.
Step 26: Finish raw edges by serging, using a zig-zag stitch on a sewing machine, or using bias tape.
Step 27: Iron seam towards top of hat.
All finished!
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