Sew Be It.com Newsletter Volume 1, Issue 1 THE PRICING PROCESS INSIDE THIS ISSUE 1 THE PRICING PROCESS 2 SOLE PROPRIETORSHIP 3 PATTERN MAKING I receive numerous requests on how to price for custom work. Should it be by the hour or by the project? I have tried many different systems but the one I have used since 1993 is Karen Howland’s pricing method. A lot of thought went into this, as you will see when you order the Unit Pricing book – see Order Form. 3 THE RIGHT STYLE 1. The base pricing is related to pattern pieces. 3 MASTER PANTS SLOPER 2. The detail side is related to time and materials. 4 DRAFTING PANTS 4 TIPS FOR PANTS WITH PLEATS 3. When I finish a project, I review my hours spent to determine where my hourly rate falls and where I need improvement. 4 ORDER OF CONSTRUCTION 4 PERFECTING THE FIT 5 TIPS & TECHNIQUES 5 NANC’S CORNER 6 NEXT ISSUE 6 SIZING SCALE EXT. TAPE Nancy Kanaval LaCourse Couture Suite A 112 Robert Road, Nicholasville, KY 40356 859.885.9250 Email: [email protected] 4. I created a master spreadsheet in Excel (updated annually) that will calculate my columns for me. It not only saves a lot of time but it is more valid in writing when printed and reviewed with the customer. 5. Until we mutually agree on a bottom line price, the price is an ESTIMATE and for LABOR only. The Customer provides all materials. 6. Consultation Fee: $25.00. Paid up front and credited if I accept the project. I make notes on worksheet based on dates, pattern preference, style, fabric, color etc. number of attendees intown/out-of-town and approx ready-to wear sizes so that I can prepare an estimate within 24 hours. 7. I provide the customer with list of materials required to do the project. 8. I review the Estimate and add or delete any items. I may decide to give preferred customer discounts (10% or 20%). 9. I call the customer to let them know I have the material list and pricing ready. 10. We mutually agree on bottom line price. 11. The customer shops for and orders the fabric. 12. Fitting dates and final target dates are agreed upon. 13. While the fabric is on order, I can schedule fittings and use pattern pieces to fit or make up muslin to fit. 14. Write any changes that need to be made on individual worksheet. 15. At this time, the worksheet is signed (by the person paying for it.) 16. 50% down is required. 17. Customer initials worksheet at each fitting. 18. Balance paid at final fitting. 1 Volume 1, Issue 1 Sew Be It.com Newsletter SOLE PROPRIETORSHIP – BACK-UP PLAN What do you do if you get sick or family member passes away and you are unable to complete the project by the target due date? If you are a sole proprietor of a home-based business, do you have a back up plan? I came up with a backup plan based on a situation that happened to me. ! This works better if you have a friend that also has a sewing business or is interested in starting one. ! If your sewing business includes alterations and custom, then find two backups. ! ! Let them know that you are updating your Business Plan and adding an Emergency Backup Plan and would like to meet with them to see if they would be interested in sewing direct for your customers if an emergency arises. Meet with them so they can sign or initial your Emergency Backup Plan giving you permission to use their name and phone number on your work orders. I currently have a project that I gave the bridesmaids dresses to my backup person to handle on her own from beginning to end. When the fabric came in, I took it to her along with the worksheets that I had already made up with an agreed price signed by the customer. She accepted the project and the price quoted. Bridal party will work with her and pay her direct. I will concentrate on the bride, flower girl and mother of the bride and mother of the groom. Your customer will appreciate the fact that you have a backup plan. Next Issue – Cancellation Process ! There may be a situation where you are consulting with a customer and know you cannot meet the deadline for the entire job. However you can commit to taking some of it and you have a backup person that may be interested in working with them direct. ! You can offer to do the worksheet for pricing purposes. However, They actually become her customer and will be paid direct from them. ! It really becomes critical to have good notes and records. ! Treat all your projects as if someone else had to finish them. ! Tag everything. ! Have a place for work to be done and a place for work that is completed. 2 Sew Be It.com Newsletter Volume 1, Issue 1 PATTERN MAKING HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS # You need only two measurements to enlarge the Lutterloh patterns. BUST MEASUREMENT Is used to enlarge all pattern parts above and including the waist. # Lift the tape over the shoulder blades, under the arms and over the fullest part of the bust. CHOOSING THE RIGHT STYLE: I learned this in a tailoring class. # Darts eliminate fullness. # Inverted pleats hide the tummy. # Gathers appear softer looking than pleats. # Pockets draw attention to the hips. FIGURE TYPES HIP MEASUREMENT: Is used to enlarge all pattern parts below the waist. # Measure over fullest part of the hip and just below the stomach. MATERNITY WEAR: All patterns can be used for maternity wear. Choose a straight through cut no waist- line. # Take the Bust measurement as usual. For the Hip Measurement, measure over the fullest part of the hip and lift the tape to the fullest part of the stomach. All Lutterloh patterns have the wearing ease included. Take the measurement according to how the garment is worn. BATHING SUITS/ LINGERIE: # Measure over bare skin. DRESSES, BLOUSES, TOPS, SKIRTS AND PANTS: # Measure over undergarments. VESTS, JACKETS, AND COATS # Measure over blouse, pullover or dress. The following I learned from an insert that was purchased with my 15-year old Lutterloh System that is currently out of print. Type A Figure: Smaller upper body, heavier hips and thigh area. $ Try detail at waist – wide waistband and two or more darts or pleats. Fuller pant leg is more flattering and hides larger hips and thighs. Type B Figure: Larger upper body, smaller hips and thighs. $ Minimize detail at waist $ No attached waistband. $ One or no pleat. $ Straight pant leg. MASTER PANTS PATTERN SLOPER Before you get into pleats and darts and zippers – pick a pants pattern for elastic waist that does not have a separate band. Omit pockets. Read Tips and Techniques before you start drafting your pants. DRAFTING PANTS – I use Pattern Ease™. Draft without seam allowance. Use masking tape to butt seams together for fittings. Add seem and hem allowance on fashion fabric. Note: If you chalk mark your pattern on to your fashion fabric and then add seam and hem allowance your chalk mark becomes your stitching line. $ $ $ Bust measurement for all waist points. Hip measurement for all points below the waist. Length: Measure from actual waist to floor - no shoes. Note: I suggest you try this both ways – make a muslin doing it the way I suggest using bust and hip measurements accordingly and also make a muslin using your hip measurement only. The one that Fits you the best, you would use that method for all Lutterloh pants patterns. 3 Sew Be It.com Newsletter Continuing on Drafting Pants: $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Connect all dots. Mark all symbols. Mark straight of grain arrow from the center of the leg hem through cross point. Remove diagram. Mark your center cross reference mark Adjust side seams by taking the difference plus or minus your waist measurement compared to the pattern you just drafted. Divide by 4 and add or subtract that amount on the side seams. Redraw the side seam waist to hip See (A). Compare length Adjust length measurement at Center Cross Point. To Shorten: fold up and tape. To Lengthen: cut at Center Cross Pont and add piece of Pattern Ease accordingly. Redraw lines Add hem allowance Add seam allowance Cut out your pattern If you want a crease, then press in before sewing pant legs together. The same line that is your straight of grain line is your crease line. TIP FOR PANTS WITH PLEATS: $ Fold pleats toward the center front (gives a slimmer look and hides tummy). $ Redraw the straight of grain from the center of the front leg hem to the first pleat on the waist. This becomes your crease line. Press crease in before sewing the pant legs together. Volume 1, Issue 1 ORDER OF CONSTRUCTION: Note: everything in brackets is optional) $ (Sew darts and close pleats). $ (Make side pockets, leave left pocket open, for pocket opening) $ Sew side seams $ Sew inseam $ Sew Crotch seam $ (Zipper) $ (Attach waistband) $ See tips and techniques for elastic waist band $ Finish hem $ (Pocket opening is only possible on pants with front gathers or front pleats) PERFECTING THE FIT $ Have someone help you. $ I prefer to pinch out swayback while trying on instead of guessing. Pinch out the exact excess from center back to adjust for swayback. See (1) $ For larger tummy area make a note on Pattern Ease to add 5cm (2”) to center front waist, tapering back to nothing at side seam. See (2). Do not adjust front crotch length. $ For small behind, mark on Pattern Ease to raise and flatten the back crotch curve area by 2 cm (¾”). See (3). Do not adjust back crotch length. $ Note: To reshape the crotch line – up to 2cm (3/4” can be lowered at the back crotch. See (4). In order not to change the crotch length, lower the same amount at the CB waist. See (5). Note: this is plus what you took out for the swayback. Note: When you are working with your fashion fabric, shorten your stitch length at crotch area and hold taught as you sew. OR, prior to sewing you can stretch and steam this area first so that when you sew this it will be smooth. 4 Sew Be It.com Newsletter Volume 1, Issue 1 TIPS AND TECHNIQUES Nanc’s CORNER Here is a neat pants waistband technique. Keep in mind that the Lutterloh pants use ¼” elastic – too thin for me so I extend my waistband to the size I want. I started using 2” wide and follow these next steps. You can use this tip for any width you prefer. I am excited about the web site up and running well! I put some thought into the four issues of the newsletter to help you become successful in pattern making and starting a home-based sewing business. # Draft out the pants as normal. Use a Lutterloh pants pattern that is designed for elastic finish (Does not have separate band). # Extend the garment waist up to include the 2” elastic and to fold down 2 inches. # After you sew the pants together, serge the waistband top if the fabric ravels - so you have a finished edge. # Cut piece of 2” elastic to your waist measurement. Sew you do not have bulk – take a piece of fabric 2-1/4” square (batiste or cotton fabric or lining fabric and place it under the elastic and butt the two ends of elastic together and sew each side down with a zigzag keeping the ends butted. OPEN FORUM: Send me your feedback on the Web to: [email protected] regarding the Web page and the information provided in the complimentary issue of the newsletter. I will edit and share your thoughts and suggestions. Again, the newsletter is a source of support. Other distributors are promoting this newsletter as well. I am here for you via email, the Web Site, U.S. mail and by phone. # Then fold the piece of fabric down over the top and zigzag a square. Your elastic is butted and the fabric piece wrapped over it keeps it together. # Interface top of band if needed. # Quarter the elastic and the top of the pants. # Pin elastic to top band matching up your quarter marks - and zigzag stretching as you sew. # Fold down the band and pin at all seam areas – stitch in the ditch (smack middle of each seam about two inches down from the top of the band) from the right side. This will hold the facing down and keep it from rolling. OR, bar tack to the seams inside. The point is you do not have to stitch down the entire band. You will love the fit and it is great for swayback. 5 Sew Be It.com Newsletter Volume 1, Issue 1 USING THE EXTENSION SCALE: I believe that Lutterloh is working on a specific pattern making system for the Big and Beautiful including a special Sizing Scale. In the meantime, you can use the one I am providing: • • • • Cut out the paper sizing extension. Place under your Lutterloh Sizing Scale included in the tool box with your manual and line up so that the 142 hits in the right place. Scotch Tape to secure your sizing scale and Laminate to reinforce. You now can create patterns for any size. Note: If you are using the paper template provided with your Free Pattern designs – then make sure you use a metric tape measure and not inches. JoAnn Fabrics has a quilting tape measure that is perfect – Inches on one side centimeters on the other. Have fun! Contact me if you need further instructions SEW BE IT - Nanc SEW BE IT.com Newsletter Volume 1 Issue 2 CONTINUOUS EDUCATION • Reference Books HOME-BASED BUSINESS • Cancellation Process • Profit Margins PATTERN MAKING • Facings/Interfacing & Linings TIPS & TECHNIQUES • French Bias Facing • Blouse with Shoulder Pleats And much more! Nancy Kanaval LaCourse Couture 112 Robert Road, Suite A Nicholasville, KY 40356 859.885.9250 Email: [email protected] 6