Dresses By Erin Hardin
Top By Amelia Johanson
28
(C)
IN THE ARTICLE
Drafting Instructions
General Assembly Instructions
Garment Information
ON THE CENTERFOLD
Fabric Flower Pattern
Design
Pullout
Section
GARMENT INFORMATION
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Child’s Ruffle Dress shown is made from
Fabric Finders’ cotton plaid. A 5-inch wide
ruffle is gathered to the bottom edge of the
dress with a 2-to-1 ratio. Yellow scalloped
edging is sewn into the ruffle seam, and four
multi-colored plaid flowers with yellow daisy
button centers are tacked evenly spaced
around the seam (pattern and instructions
for fabric flowers are on the pullout
centerfold). Two 1-inch-wide silk satin ribbon
straps run through casings in front and back
and tie on each shoulder.
Suggested patterns: “Dainty Designs”
(View 2) from the Sew Beautiful Pattern
Collection, or the “A-line Jumper” from the
book, Appliqué, Martha’s Favorites by
Martha Pullen.
(E)
Width of
Casing +
1/4-inch
(B)
(D)
(A)
2-inch
optional
CF Pattern
CONSTRUCTION:
Simple Pattern Drafting
Did you know that you can turn
an A-line pattern into a halter-style
sundress that sews up in less time than
it might take you to read through the
directions. You can make it and wear it
the same day.
You probably already have a basic
A-line pattern in your stash; if not,
the silhouette is everywhere in retail,
so the pattern companies are sure to
have several options in their catalogs.
Some patterns will have more flare and
swing; others are cut more closely to the
body. The one you choose is a matter
of personal preference. (Visit www.
sewingpatterns.com to view and order
patterns from a long list of commercial
sources.) We’ve also referenced several
Martha Pullen/Sew Beautiful A-line
patterns from baby size 6m to women’s
size 4XL, so you can check to see if you
have any of those as well.
The samples featured here are a
few of our favorite variations – a little
girl’s swing dress, an older girl’s trendy,
cinched-waist dress, and a woman’s
bias-cut, silk top – along with several
illustrated looks for inspiration. Make a
top with matching shorts or bloomers,
or whip up a knee-length beach coverup – great pieces for kids all summer
long. If you don’t have time to embellish, grab a couple of embroidered linen
tea-towels, bath towels or pillowcases;
cut them out and stitch away. Don’t
underestimate the fashion magic that
decorative trims, ribbons and beads can
add quickly and easily to any style. Once
you draft the pattern, there will be no
stopping you.
Here’s your chance to get those
youngsters sewing too! Projects don’t
get any easier or more fun to finish
than this one. Plan a party and invite
your daughter’s friends to a spend-thenight sewing-spree spectacular. Have
some embellished linens on hand and
let the fun begin. The girls will be proud
of themselves when they finish, and
you may just inspire a future fashion
designer.
Figure 1
PATTERN DRAFTING
(Refer to figure 1 above)
1. Trace Front A-line pattern piece to
tissue or pattern paper.
2. For the girls’ dresses, 2-inches was
added to center front edge for gathering and fullness; refer to figure 1.
Because the pattern is cut on the fold,
this will add 4-inches of fullness to
garment center. NOTE: This amount
will vary according to size and age; use
your best judgment and add more or less
as necessary. For women’s garments, extra
fullness in front is optional depending on
finished style.
3. Draw a straight line from underarm across pattern, perpendicular
to center front, line A. From this
point, measure up to where you want
garment to finish at center front and
draw a parallel line above line A; this
is line B.
4. Mark straight down from original
pattern’s neck seam and make a vertical mark to line B; this is line C.
5. Draw a curved line that smoothly
transitions from underarm curve to
line C.
6. Measure up the width of desired
casing plus 1/4-inch above line B and
draw line E; this will be the cutting
line. NOTE: Casings can be anywhere
from 3/8-inch- to 1-inch-wide depending on material used for straps and style
preference. A 2-inch wide silk satin
ribbon fits well through a 1/2-, 3/4- or
1-inch-wide casing. (See page 31)
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29
Girl’s Dress is made from Fabric Finders’
watercolor cotton print. Gathering at the
hips is covered with a 1-1/2-inch-wide silk/
satin ribbon that ties into a bow on the
side (can also use grosgrain ribbon). This
style requires an invisible zipper in one
side seam. Two 5/8-inch-wide silk/satin
ribbons run through casings in front
and back and tie on each shoulder.
Suggested patterns: A-line dress from
Contemporary Heirlooms for the Older
Girl by Martha Pullen (sizes 6-16), or
Simplicity’s Easy-to-Sew A-line
dress #4839SIM (sizes 7-16).
Use a
tea towel or
pre-embroidered
linen.
Draw A Curve
Fold (B)
Dart
Front and
Back
Figure 2
Figure 3
CF
CF
1/2-inch
Seam
Allowance
2-inch
optional
Bias
Seam
(RS)
Figure 4
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Sew Beautiful July/August 2008
7. Use this pattern for front and back.
NOTE: For women and teens, test
pattern to be sure front fits properly in
bust with no pulling. For a better fit,
transfer darts from existing pattern, but
generally, the amount added to the center
front is sufficient (fig. 2). If you plan
to cut out on bias grain, darts may
not be needed. We suggest sewing
up a garment using inexpensive fabric
to test fit before cutting into more
expensive yardage.
8. If you feel there is too much bulk in
the chest area, consider curving the
top line downward toward center
front (fig. 3). This will require a separate bias-cut casing to be sewn to top
edge (fig. 4). All samples shown were
cut straight across.
Front Top
Foldline
Ribbon Ends
Here
Arm Curve
Figure 5
GENERAL
CONSTRUCTION
1. Sew side seams.
2. Cut out 1-1/2-inch-wide bias strips
for facings. Fold in half lengthwise
and sew to arm curves like a facing
or a binding from top front edge to
top back edge (fig. 5). Finish facing by
hand or straight stitch by machine.
3. Fold top edge under 1/4-inch then on
designated foldline (width of casing)
and stitch top neck casings in front
and back.
4. Hem, or add trim or a ruffle to bottom
edge of garment. NOTE: Ruffle shown
on child’s dress sample is 5-inches wide
with a narrow, machine-rolled hem
finish. It is gathered to skirt bottom edge
with trim in the seam and adorned with
fabric flowers (flower instructions are on
the pullout centerfold).
5. Run ribbon through casings and tie
to fit shoulders.
6. For a waistband or hip band, you
will need to apply a zipper in one
side seam for getting in and out of
the garment. Mark a reference line
on pattern where you want band to
be centered. Mark lines above and
below reference line to equal width of
ribbon or waistband material (ribbon
is centered over reference line). Run
gathering threads above and below
both the top and bottom lines, leaving
a 1/4- to 3/8-inch space between
stitching. Leave a 1-1/2-inch flat
space at zipper/side seam opening and
tie off gathering on either side; refer
to figure 6.
7. Gather to fit waist or hip. Apply
ribbon or waistband material on top of
gathered area on right side of garment.
Topstitch along edge of ribbon
Side Seam/Zipper
Bias Facing
Back Top
Ribbon
Ribbon
Skirt
1-1/2” space
Skirt
Figure 6
(this should be between rows of gathering threads (fig. 6). Backstitch when
you reach each side of the 1-1/2-inch
flat space and leave tails for tying a
bow over zipper opening.
8. Remove gathering threads.
BIAS CONSTRUCTION
1. Sew side seams and finish arm curves
with bias binding or facing.
2. Since bias is stretchy, folding and
stitching a casing on a bias grain will
not work across the top edge. Instead,
cut front and back top edges 1/2-inch
above Line B to allow for a seam
allowance and add a separate casing
strip to the top for the strap carrier:
a. Stay-stitch seam allowance along top
edge of back and front.
b. Cut two strips of fabric on grain.
Measure width across top edge of
pattern and include 1-inch for finishing each end with a 1/2-inch hem.
Decide how wide you want the casing
to finish, double and add 1-inch for
seam allowance (i.e. 1-inch-wide finished casing x 2 = 2-inches + 1-inch
seam allowances = 3-inches total).
Cut two of these strips.
c. For a shoulder-tied dress, skip to D.
If a center front or back tie is desired,
fold casing in half to mark center.
Mark casing at top edge foldline and
at bottom seam line. Stitch a vertical
buttonhole at center of casing making
sure to stop at least 1/4-inch before top
edge foldline and bottom seam line (fig.
7). (Width of casing can be determined
by width of ribbon.) Carefully open
buttonhole using seam ripper.
d. Fold under strip ends 1/2-inch or
twice 1/4-inch and hem. Place one
strip right sides together on staystitched bias neck edge and stitch a
1/2-inch seam. Press strip and seam
up. Press under remaining long edge
of strip 3/8-inch and pin just a scant
1/8-inch past seam on wrong side.
Press folded edge of strip. Topstitch
a scant 1/16-inch from seam edge
on right side catching fold edge on
backside like a waistband. Repeat for
other side (fig. 8).
Center
Foldline
Buttonhole
Seam or Stitching Line
Figure 7
3. Finish bottom edge with 1/2-inch
bias binding for best results. TIP:
For more control, fuse super lightweight
Floriani® Dream Weave stabilizer to
silk charmeuse fabric before cutting bias
for strips for hem.
4. Run ribbon through casings and tie.
TIP: Tack stitch ends of casings to ribbon
if you want to secure them from slipping.
Fold a tuck in the ribbon if it is wider
than casing width. —SB
Separate Casing Strip
Bias Top
Straight Grain
Strip
Figure 8
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31
Lady’s Top is made of chocolate silk charmeuse cut on the bias, which
eliminates the need for bust darts, and creates a sleek fit to the waist
and hips. Cutting on the bias grain is optional; however, you may need
bust darts if garment is cut on straight grain. Two-inch-wide silk/satin
ribbon in moss green runs through both casings and emerges through a
center buttonhole. Casing ends can be permanently tacked to ribbon if
a sliding casing is not preferred (as shown in bottom sample photo).
Bow can be worn in front or back (casings are not tacked to ribbon in
photo of plain front at right). Ribbon strap can also run through both
casings and tie on one side, or two ribbons can tie on each shoulder.
Switch ribbon colors anytime you want a change. The adult top casings
were cut a little lower in the sample for a more scooped neckline effect,
but can be placed as high or low as you desire.
Suggested patterns: A-line dress from Fabulous Fashions by Martha
Pullen sizes XS (4-6) to 4XL (30-32), or Textiles Studio #1405 or #1403
with side vents.
About the Designers
Erin Hardin is a recent graduate from
Auburn University’s school of design. She
joined the staff of Martha Pullen Company
from Land’s End catalog company. She is a
technical writer and project designer, and
assists with the production of Martha’s
Sewing Room PBS television show, and
serves as a teacher’s assistant at Martha
Pullen’s School of Art Fashion. She also
models for Sew Beautiful and is shown in this
article wearing the green silk top.
Amelia Johanson is associate editor of
Sew Beautiful.
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Sew Beautiful July/August 2008