PATTERN 7880
PATTERN PIECES:
INTERFACING
Cut interfacing as illustrated and iron on the wrong side of the fabric
pieces. Transfer pattern outlines to the interfacing pieces.
Front 2x
Center Front 2x
Side Front 2x
Side Front 2x
Back 2x
Center Back 2x
Side Back 2x
Peplum 1x
Upper Sleeve 2x
Undersleeve 2x
Sleeveband 2x
Stand Collar 2x
OVERSKIRT
B 13 Front Pleat Piece 1x
B 14 Back Pleat Piece 2x
B 15 Back Yoke 2x
B 16 Waistband 1x
SKIRT
C
17 Front Skirt Panel 1x
C
18 Back Skirt Panel 2x
C
19 Waistband 1x
BUSTLE
D 20 Back Yoke 2x
D 21 Bottom 1x
D 22 Upper Back 1x
D 23 Waistband 1x
When sewing, right sides of fabric should be facing.
Transfer all pattern lines to the right side of the fabric with basting thread.
A JACKET (Outside)
Front Panel Seams
1
Lay side fronts (pieces 3 and 4) right sides together. Baste panel
seams (seam number 3). Stitch.
Lay side fronts right sides together with center fronts. Baste panel seams (seam number 2). Stitch. Trim allowances and press to center front (1a). Topstitch
close to seams.
Stitch center back seam. Press allowances open.
Back Panel Seams
SEE PATTERN SHEET FOR CUTTING DIAGRAMS
PREPARING PATTERN PIECES
2 Lay center backs right sides together with back pieces. Baste panel
seams (seam number 4) and stitch. Trim allowances and press to center back.
Topstitch close to seams.
Peplum (Doubled)
Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart on the pattern sheet: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to your bust
measurement, pants and skirts according to your hip measurement. Adjust
the pattern pieces, if necessary, by adding or subtracting the number of inches that your measurements differ from the measurements given in the
Burda chart.
allowances.
Turn peplum. Baste edges, press. Baste open edges together. Topstitch close
to lower edge.
ABCD
4 Side pleats: Work from the right fabric side to fold pleats on peplum along
Cut out the following pattern pieces in the required size from the pattern
sheet:
for the JACKET view A pieces 1 to 12,
for the OVERSKIRT B pieces 13 to 16,
for the SKIRT view C pieces 17 to 19,
and for the BUSTLE view D pieces 20 to 23.
A Sizes 12 to 20 (38 to 48)
Mark the buttonholes on piece 1: top buttonhole the same distance from edge
of neckline as for size 10 (36). The bottom buttonhole is in the
same place for all sizes. Mark the other 19 buttonholes at even intervals in between.
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING PATTERN PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5 feet, 6 inches (168 cm). If your are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your size at the lines marked
"lengthen or shorten here".
= Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the same
amount at the same lines.
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.
To lengthen, slide the two halves of the patten piece as far apart as
necessary.
To shorten, overlap the two halves of the patten piece as far as necessary.
Even out the side edges. Remark buttonholes.
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece but in no case a
cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming
the center line.
Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are
to be placed face down on the fabric.
The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.
ABCD
For a single layer of fabric, the patten pieces are pinned to the right side. For
double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the pattern
pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown in the
cutting diagram extending over the fold of the fabric should be cut last from a
single layer of fabric.
AB Fabric I and Fabric II
A: Cut pieces 2 to 10 and 12 of fabric I (floral print),
cut pieces 1 and 11 as well as pieces 2 to 8 again of fabric II (plain fabric) for
the inside.
B: Cut all pieces for the outside of fabric I and for the inside of fabric II.
= See cutting diagrams on pattern sheet.
SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES must be added to the pattern
pieces:
5
⁄8" (1.5 cm) at all seams and edges.
Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer all pattern lines and markings
(seam and hem lines) to the wrong side of the fabric pieces according to package instructions.
C SKIRT
O Lay undersleeve piece right sides together with upper sleeve piece. Baste
Stitch center back seam. Press allowances open.
Baste pleats on back skirt panel in arrow direction and baste.
Side Seams / Left Slit
Stitch side seams (seam number 17), stitch left side seam from slit mark to lower edges. Secure ends of stitching. Neaten allowances and press open,
press to inside at slit. Topstitch close to edges of slit.
Waistband: Iron WAISTBAND INTERFACING on wrong side of waistband.
and stitch back sleeve seam (seam number 10).
Neaten seam allowances and press open.
SEWING
JACKET
A
1
A
2
A
3
A
4
A
5
A
6
A
7
A
8
A
9
A
10
A
11
A
12
Sleeves
3 Lay peplum right sides facing. Baste and stitch lower edges together. Trim
each center lines. Baste side lines together. Press pleats so that the center of
each meets with the pleat seam. Baste pleats at upper
edge (4a).
Baste and press inverted pleat in center back likewise.
5 Baste peplum right sides together with back (seam number 5) and stitch.
Trim allowances and press up. Topstitch close to seam.
P
To ease tops of sleeves, stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) from . to . .
Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch front sleeve seams (seam
number 11). Neaten seam allowances and press open.
Sleeveband: Join sleeveband piece to a round. Press allowances open. Press
allowance at upper edge to inside. Baste ribbon on upper edge of sleeveband,
turning ends in.
Q Baste sleeveband on lower edge of sleeve with right side facing wrong side (seam number 12). Stitch. Trim allowances.
Turn sleeveband to right side of sleeve, pin in place. Slip lace trim under upper edge of sleeveband, baste in place on sleeves. Edgestitch ribbon in place,
catching sleeveband and lace (17a).
Setting in Sleeves
To ease tops of sleeves, pull bobbin threads slightly.
R Pin sleeve into armhole, right sides facing. When setting in sleeves, 4
points are important for proper fit:
= Match markings 13 on upper sleeve and front. Match marking on undersleeve with side seam. Match marking at top of sleeve with shoulder seam. Distribute fullness evenly between the . to avoid forming tucks. Baste and stitch
sleeve from sleeve side.
Neaten seam allowances together and press toward sleeves.
Work BUTTONHOLES in right front.
Cover BUTTONS with fabric and sew to left front along center front.
Also sew on three more buttons: at each inverted pleat and at peplum
joining seam.
Front Pleat Piece (Floral Print Outside)
S Lay pieces of fabric I and II right sides facing and stitch lower edges to-
6 Baste side backs right sides together with center back and peplum (seam
number 6), matching markings with peplum seam. Stitch. Trim allowances and
press onto side pieces. Topstitch close to seams.
T Fold pleats at side edges in arrow direction, baste.
Baste shoulder seams and side seams (seam number 7/9), easing in back
shoulder edges. Stitch seams. Press allowances open.
Back Yoke (Plain Outside)
Press allowance at lower edge of yoke pieces to inside.
¡ Baste plain yoke pieces right sides together with side edges of front pleat
Jacket (Inside)
Stitch seams as on outer jacket, omit peplum.
“
Fronts
Back Pleat Piece
8 Fold each front (piece 1) in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch neck
edges together up to center front and stitch lower edges together. Secure
ends of stitching. Clip allowances at neck edge in center front
close to each last stitch (arrow). Trim allowances, trim corners diagonally.
Turn fronts. Baste edges, press. Baste open edges together.
{ Lay two pieces each of the same fabric right sides together. Stitch center
back seam from slit mark to lower edges. Secure ends of stitching. Clip allowances at slit mark close to stitching (arrow). Press allowances open.
Double the Jacket
J Pin inside jacket right sides together with jacket, matching seams. Baste
and stitch front and lower edges together up to peplum. Catch fronts in between. Trim allowances, clip curves, trim corners diagonally.
Turn jacket. Baste edges, press.
Baste lace trim and ribbon over panel seams on center fronts,
turning in lower edges. Sititch ribbon close to edge, catching lace.
å Baste waistband on upper edge of skirt (seam number 16). Stitch.
Stand Collar
∫ Fold waistband on fold line, right side facing in. Stitch across ends, turning
allowance at lower edge diagonally in. Trim seam allowances, trim corners diagonally.
Baste waistband to inside on fold line, lay over joining seam and baste in place. Press. Work from right side of skirt to stitch in line of joining seam, catchng
inside half of waistband.
Work BUTTONHOLE in left edge of waistband. Sew on BUTTON.
N Baste collar right sides together with neck edge (seam number 8),matching markings with shoulder seams. Stitch. Trim seam allowances, clip curves and press onto collar. Baste inside half of collar along joining seam and
sew by hand.
S. 1 v. 2
ƒ
Gather upper back, e.g. stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting. Pull bobbin threads to gather to length of back yoke between placement
lines. Knot ends of thread. Distribute gathering evenly.
© Stitch upper back right sides together with a back yoke piece on both siª Pin yoke pieces right sides together. Stitch side and lower edges together. Trim allowances.
Turn piece right side out, press. Baste upper edges together. Stuff upper back
with filling material and baste on upper edge of yoke.
⁄ Stitch waistband on upper edge of yoke, matching centers (seam number
20). Press allowances onto waistband. Press allowance at other long edge of
waistband to inside. Stitch across ends as described and
illustrated in step 30.
Fold waistband in half, wrong side facing in. Stitch together close to
edges. Stitch waistband in place along joining seam. Separate VELCRO FASTENING TAPE and sew onto and under front ends of waistband as marked.
≠ Cut ring tape into 6 pieces and stitch on inside of skirt as marked. Slip a
ring through the loops on each piece of ring tape, gathering the
tape together (25a).
L
collar pieces right sides together, baste and stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, clip curves.
Turn collar. Baste edges, press.
™ Baste bottom piece right sides together with upper back (seam number
18) and stitch. Trim allowances and press up.
} Lay pieces of different fabric right sides together, stitch edges of slit together. Baste and stitch upper edges together from markings and side and lower edges together. Trim allowances, trim corners diagonally. Clip at the top at
markings close to each last stitch (arrows).
Turn piece right side out. Baste edges, press. Baste upper edges together.
Fold pleats in arrow direction, baste.
K Baste inside jacket on edges of peplum and sew by hand.
M Press allowance at lower edge of non-interfaced collar piece to inside. Pin
D BUSTLE
Press yoke pieces over joining seams. Baste lower edges together and
stitch together close to edges.
¿ Pin back pleat piece on back yokes matching centers and ending at marking (15) on front pleat piece (arrow). Baste upper edges together. Turn in back
yoke edges and stitch together close to edges.
Waistband: Iron WAISTBAND INTERFACING on wrong side of waistband.
A
∂ Fold waistband on fold line, right side facing in. Stitch across ends. Trim
seam allowances, trim corners diagonally.
Turn waistband to inside on fold line and baste, baste along joining
seam. Press. Work from right side of skirt to topstitch close to all edges waistband, catching inside half at joining seam.
Work BUTTONHOLE. Sew BUTTON to underlap.
Neaten hem, press to inside and stitch 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide.
Sew rings on outside of waistband at x-markings.
How to gather up the overskirt: Put on skirt and overskirt. Slip the rings of the
overskirt into the rings of the skirt to gather it up.
piece (seam number 14). Baste on floral print pieces from the inside. Stitch
side edges together, catching pleat piece in between.
7 Press allowance at lower edge of back to inside. Stitch back panel seams
just to markings (seam number 6). Press allowances onto side backs, go on to
press allowances to inside.
9 Baste front pieces right sides together with center front pieces of
outer jacket (seam number 1), matching lower edge with each marking.
Baste waistband on upper edge of skirt, leaving underlap overhanging
back skirt panel. Stitch. Secure ends of stitching. Press seam
allowances onto waistband. Press seam allowance at other long edge to inside.
des at placement lines (seam number 19).
Turn piece right side out. Baste bottom on lower edge of yoke.
B OVERSKIRT
gether. Trim allowances.
Turn piece right side out. Baste edges, press. Baste open edges together.
Baste lace along lower edge and baste ribbon over lace. Taper ends of lace at
side edges. Edgestitch ribbon in place, catching lace.
Back Panel Seams
ç
Press
seam allowances onto waistband.
S. 2 v. 2