About The Author
Ken MacDonald was born on the 21st February 1959 in Paisley. He was educated at
Keil Boarding School in Dumbarton before, at the age of 16, joining the family
business Houston Traditional Kiltmakers in Paisley, Scotland. Houston Kiltmakers
are world renowned as a leading authority of all Scottish highland wear and
etiquette.
Wm Houston Gentlemen’s Outfitters was founded in 1909 by Mr William Houston of
Paisley, the grandfather of Ken. The business was originally purchased by the
Houston family in 1924 with only 2 shillings and sixpence in the till. The Shop
operated for over 50 years as a traditional gentlemen’s outfitter, providing gentlemen of the day with pinstripe suits and bowler hats. Since then, the Houston and then
MacDonald families have evolved and grown the business in Paisley, where the
business is located.
Today Ken MacDonald and son Ewan MacDonald run the business, the 3 rd and 4th
generations of the MacDonald family to operate the business. Houston’s handmade
kilts are all produced in Scotland and shipped around the world to the USA, Japan,
© Houston Traditional Kiltmakers 2013
Indian and Australia as well as servicing the domestic market in Scotland, the UK
and Europe.
Ken is a leading authority on Highlandwear, tartans and tailoring. He has over 37
years of experience working directly with all the main Scottish tartan mills, sporran
suppliers and many other expert manufactures. His knowledge in the industry is
unparalleled and many hold Ken as one of the leading authorities. Ken is also Vice
Chairman of the Scottish Tartan Authority which advises all aspects of tartan and
retailers worldwide. He has also held posts as collector of the Incorporation of
Glasgow Weavers and Paisley BIDs.
Ken has designed several tartans most notably for The Glasgow Garden Festival in
1998, the Bute Heather collection in 2001 and the American National Tartan in 2006
presented to President George W. Bush from the people of Scotland to the people of
America.
Ken MacDonald is an active Rotarian and also supports The University of Paisley,
providing students with the opportunity to gain work experience prior to leaving
university. As well as taking on university graduates on internship programmes.
Ken lives in Renfrewshire with wife Louise and family. He is passionate about
Scotland and especially the town of Paisley where his family business has been for
over 100 years. Ken also likes to spend time on the Island of Bute where he gets
inspiration for the new tartans he designs.
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Contents
Page 4 - Foreword
Page 5 - the Kilt Buying Process
Page 6 - Your Kiltmaker
Page 7 - Clans & Septs – Who can wear a Kilt?
Page 11 - Kilt Etiquette
Page 24 - Tips on Wearing a Kilt
Page 29 – Formal Occasions
Page 31 - Tartans
Page 38 - Kilt Packs – The Best Way to Buy
Page 40 – Kilt Finishes
Page 46 - Feileadh Mor
Page 47 - Jackets
Page 55 - Trews
Page 57 - Sporrans
Page 59 - Socks
Page 59 - Shoes
Page 60 - Sgian Dubhs
Page 60 - Belts & Buckles
Page 61 - Clan Crests
Page 61 - Kilt Pins, Flashes and Brooches
Page 62 - Plaids
Page 62 - Modern Kilts
Page 63 - Women’s Kilts & Apparel
Page 64 - Children’s Kilts & Apparel
Page 65 - Quality
Page 67 - Kilt Care
Page 68 - FAQ’s
Page 77 – Further Help and Info
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Foreword
It is essential that you make the right decision when buying a highland outfit as your
kilt (if properly selected from a reputable supplier and made to fit) can last you a
lifetime.
The Book will guide you through the process from an independent perspective. As
author of this book and the owner of Houston Traditional Kiltmakers, we practice
what we preach and only provide the products and services outlined in this guide.
Although, regardless of whether you buy your kilt from Houston’s or another reputable Kiltmakers the same guidance applies. Take your time, ask the right
questions, use this guide to ensure you get the best possible outfit you can afford
and you will get years and years of enjoyment from it.
Buying a Kilt can be a complex process, but we aim to make it an enjoyable one, we
demystify the terminology and explain things in laymen terms to help you make the
right decisions. Our customers are our top priority and we are on hand to assist you
with our knowledge and expertise. Visit www.kiltmakers.com to download our hire
and buy brochures and view our videos online for everything you need to know; from
how to put on your highland wear to our wide range of products and accessories.
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The Kilt Buying Process
Step 1: Research and select your kiltmaker
Step 2: Decide on your tartan
Step 3: Think about where and when you may use you kilt to ensure you get most
appropriate range of use
Step 4: Select you style of Outfit
Step 5: Select you accessories
Step 6: Measure yourself using our guide or get measured at your kiltmaker
Step 7: Before you place your order, ask questions
Step 8: Get fitted
Step 9: Enjoy your kilt
Step 10: Care for your Kilt
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Your Kiltmaker
Ken MacDonald and his son Ewan are the 3rd and fourth generations of the
MacDonald family to operate Houston Kiltmakers, which is considered to be
probably, the best highland wear and kilt specialist in Scotland. Ken boasts over 37
years experience in the tartan industry and one of the leading authorities in
Highlandwear, tartans and tailoring. Working directly with all the main Scottish tartan
mills, and sporran suppliers Ken has an invaluable knowledge of the industry. Ken is
also Vice Chairman of the Scottish Tartan Authority which advises on all aspects of
tartan and retailers worldwide. Houston’s kilts are all produced in Scotland and shipped worldwide to the USA, Japan, Indian and Australia as well as servicing the
domestic market in Scotland and the UK.
Returning customers have commented that they have had a great time at their
events, and all Houston kilt hire looked a million dollars. Ken and the staff at
Houston’s are always eager to hear about customers experiences. Ken has a
treasured collection of cards, letters and photographs from customers around the
world who have expressed their gratitude for the excellent customer care and quality
products provided by Houston’s. Furthermore, customers have described that
owning their own kilt is a fulfilled desire and have spoken of the great feeling of pride
they experience when wearing it.
Ken has designed several tartans most notably for The Glasgow Garden Festival in
1998 and his ‘St. Mirren’, ‘Scottish Heather’ and ‘Bute Heather’ collections in 2001. Ken also designed the American National Tartan in 2006 which was accepted by
President George W. Bush on behalf of the American people. The President was
presented with a kilt and also a sash for the First Lady. Houston’s thereafter received
a letter of thanks and gratitude from the Whitehouse.
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Clans & Septs
MacDonald Ancient Tartan
Clans
Clan is the Gaelic word for family and originally clans only belonged to the
Highlands.
The clan system is closely bound up with Scottish heraldry. The best definition of a
clan provided by a heraldic authority is contained in Nisbet's "System of Heraldry",
published in 1722: ‘A social group consisting of an aggregate of distinct erected families actually descended, or accepting themselves as descendants of a common
ancestor, and which has been received by the Sovereign through its Supreme Officer
of Honour, the Lord Lyon, as an honourable community whereof all of the members
on establishing right to, or receiving fresh grants of, personal hereditary nobility will
be awarded arms as determinate or indeterminate cadets both as may be of the
chief family of the clan.’
A clan is therefore a community which is both distinguished by heraldry and
recognised by the Sovereign. At the head of this honourable community is the chief.
He is the only person entitled to display the undifferenced shield of Arms, i.e. without
any marks of dependency upon any other noble house.
Chiefship is a title of honour and dignity within the nobility of Scotland. Any claimant
to such a title must establish, to the satisfaction of the Lord Lyon representing the
Sovereign, that he or she is entitled to the undifferenced arms of the community over
which they seek to preside. It is the determining of chiefship which is among the
Lyon Court's central work.
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Many of the cases which have come before the Lyon Court in the last 50 years have
related to the chiefships of clans. There are now about 140 clans that have chiefs
recognised by the Lord Lyon.
A clan or family that has a recognised chief or head confers noble status on the clan
or family which gives it a legally recognised status and a corporate identity. A family
or name group which has no recognised chief has no official position under the law
of Scotland. If you have a name of one of the 140 Clans you can wear any of the
tartans under that clan’s name. MacDonald for example has 23 different tartans
under the one name
Sept Tartan
The surname Vance has no clan tartan but is a sept of the Galloway District.
(Galloway District Modern Red pictured above)
In Scotland, a sept is often a family that is absorbed into a larger Scottish clan for
mutual benefit. For example, the Burns family sept was absorbed into the Clan
Campbell. The Burns family being very small and of questionable heritage gained
legitimacy and protection and the Campbell clan absorbed a potential rival for British
affection in Scotland. Each Scottish clan typically has a number of septs, each with
its own surname. Septs have rights to wear clan tartans although they often have
tartans of their own. You can do a search on Kiltmakers.com to find out if you family
name is affiliated to any other clan.
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Irish septs
Irish national tartan
In Ireland, the word sept is used to refer to a group of people with both a common
surname and common origin. In recent times, Irish septs are sometimes called clans,
although Ireland does not have a clan system similar to that of Scotland. Related
Irish septs belong to larger groups, sometimes called tribes, such as the Dál gCais,
Uí Néill, Uí Fiachrach, and Uí Maine.
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Tartans Anyone Can Wear
Bute Tartan Range
Ancient Bute
Modern Bute
Black Bute
Midnight Bute
Glencallum Bute
Straad Bute
Autumn Bute
Midnight Bute
Scottish Heather
Grey Bute
Weathered Bute
St Mirren
If you do not have family or clan tartan to choose from you can choose a tartan that
anyone can wear. You can choose from a range of national tartan such as Scottish
National or American National. Nowadays people tend to choose a tartan to
coordinate with wedding or colours or purely for its aesthetic value. Greys in
particular are currently in vogue and very popular amongst kilt buyers. Pictured
above is Houston’s own Bute Heather Tartan Designs which are predominantly woven in greys, purples and blues. There are only a few hundred tartans that are
privately owned and require permission to be worn.
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Kilt Etiquette Guide
One question we constantly get asked is: who is entitled to wear a kilt? Is it only for
Scots or people with Scottish ancestors?
Answer: Anybody can wear a kilt!
Almost every country in the world has got some sort of tartan link.
In England you have Cornish, Northumberland and Manx (Isle of Man) tartans.
The Irish tartans consist of county tartans such as Ulster, Co. Mayo, Galway and
Kildare and the Irish national tartan. We also have lots of Welsh tartans.
Over the past 400 years Scots have travelled the world reaching every corner of the
globe. They have fulfilled a rich diversity of trades and professions including traders,
missionaries, engineers, doctors, teachers, naturalists and inventors to name only a
few.
Within Europe many French, Spanish, Italian and German families have Celtic roots
and are often of Scottish decent; whilst further afield there is a strong Scottish
connection within America, Canada, New Zealand, Australia and Russia.
We export to every country in the world from the United States to the Falkland Isles.
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Tartan
What tartan can I wear?
Most customers will choose a clan tartan based on a family name. This could be
either a person’s own surname or that of a parent or grandparent. However;; you can wear any tartan for any occasion.
Traditionally hunting, ancient and weathered tartans were worn with tweeds and day
jackets for outdoor functions, hunting and highland games. Dress and modern
tartans were worn with formal functions and black tie dinners.
Variations of MacDonald Tartan
Modern
Ancient
Weathered/muted
Hunting
Dress
Nowadays people tend to choose tartan for its aesthetic value, a family or clan
connection; or to coordinate with wedding colours.
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Bute Tartan Range
Ancient Bute
Modern Bute
Autumn Bute
Grey Bute
Black Bute
Midnight Bute
Midnight Bute
Weathered Bute
Straad Bute
Scottish Heather
Glencallum Bute
St Mirren
If you do not have family or clan tartan to choose from you can choose a tartan that
anyone can wear. You can choose from a range of national tartan such as Scottish
National or American National. Often over the years one has heard people explaining
they have the right or that they are entitled to wear this or that tartan.... in fact no
such right, in any legal sense, exists for them or anyone else ....the only
considerations which govern the wearing of a particular set are usage and good
taste (quote from Scottish Tartans Authority director Brian Wilton). Nowadays people
tend to choose a tartan to coordinate with wedding or colours or purely for its
aesthetic value. Greys in particular are currently in vogue and very popular amongst
kilt buyers. Pictured above is Houston’s own Bute Heather Tartan Designs which are predominantly woven in greys, purples and blues. There are only a few hundred
tartans that are privately owned and require permission to be worn.
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Weights of tartans
19 oz kilts are generally for regimental wear but are available in around six tartans.
16 oz/17oz kilts are the largest range available with a choice of around 14,000
tartans. Heavy weight kilts are the best as the kilt sits and swings better. Heavy
weight tartans can also be Teflon coated making them stain proof. Contrary to
popular belief, heavy weight kilts are not any warmer than medium or lightweight
kilts. It is in fact the top half of your outfit such as your jacket and waistcoat that
generate heat. The majority of jackets are heavy weight however;; Houston’s have perfected their own super light weight jacket which has a great cut and comfortable
fit.
13oz Medium weight kilts are normally produced for Irish and Welsh national tartans.
Medium weight kilts come in a choice of around 1000 tartans
11oz light weight cloth would normally be woven for ladies skirts, gents’ trousers and waistcoats, children’s kilts, children’s trousers and ties. Kilts do not have a hem around the bottom of the garment however;; children’s kilts can be cut for growth. A hem of around 2 to 3 inches will be added, and can then be let down when the child
grows a bit taller.
8 oz fabric is used to make coordinating ties or bow ties and also ladies dresses.
Wool, like the 11oz lightweight cloth can be used for ladies and gents’ trousers and waistcoats.
Silk is available in 80 tartans and can be used to make ties, bow ties, waistcoats and
ladies dresses.
Cotton and Poly Cotton can used to make napkins and shirts.
Poly Viscose is a washable and stained proof fabric generally used for school
uniforms and children’s highland wear.
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Teflon Coating
At Houston’s we were the first to Teflon coat/stain proof all our tartans, which makes our kilts and jackets fully protected from rain and stains. The fabric is even beer
proof! The wool has the same handle and is fully breathable, making them safe to
wear to rugby and football matches.
We calculate that over the life span of your kilt you will save approximately £180 to
£260, not having to get your kilt dry cleaned as often. This also helps the
environment. The Teflon coating lasts a minimum of 18 dry cleans.
Samples and Swatches
If you would like a sample or swatch of tartan we offer these free of charge to
customers. If you live locally there will be no charge for postage. If you live overseas
there will be a charge of £5.00 GBP for postage as we ship thousands overseas. If
you proceed to order from Houston’s this amount will be deducted from your final cost. We would also suggest that if a colour has already been chosen for the theme
of a wedding e.g. if the colour pink has been chosen for the bridesmaids dresses it is
helpful to bring a sample of the fabric into the store when inquiring about hiring or
buying for the event. This allows Houston’s to show you the best coordinating tartans and furthermore, give you the option to have ties made to coordinate with your
chosen colours.
The Reputable Mills
At Houston’s we tailor our kilts from pure wool tartans woven by Scotland’s top quality, reputable mills. We have all mass produced tartans by Lochcarron, House of
Edgar, Strathmore, Bute Mill, Martin Mills, Batley & Dalgleish in 250 swatch book
forms available to view in store.
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Kilt Yardage
The traditional 8 yard kilt is the standard measure of gents’ kilts. The kilt sits high on
the waist, a couple of inches above the hip bone. This would be worn for formal
occasions, and it is recommended that the 8 yard kilt be woven in a 17oz heavy
weight fabric as this sits and swings better when worn. Some men’s kilts are still woven in 6 yards of cloth however 8 yards is the standard measurement for gents. 6
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Jackets
PRINCE CHARLIE
Prince Charlie jackets are worn to dress occasion such as
black tie dinners, balls, graduations and weddings. It is
traditionally worn with a 3 button waistcoat with a black bow
tie and a white standard or wing collar pleat front shirt.
Alternatively it can be worn with a plain black or white front
shirt, with double cuff and cufflinks.
The Prince Charlie jacket traditionally comes with shiny
buttons and the silver wear to match however; antique
buttons and silver wear have of late become more popular.
The jacket is more popularly worn with a spread bat wing shirt
or a standard collar, plain front shirt in white or black with a
plain or tartan ruche cravat. It can be worn with either a 3 or a
5 button waistcoat however; we recommend a 3 button
waistcoat with tartan ruches.
Prince Charlie jackets must be worn with dress sporrans and
black or off white kilt hose or tartan hose. We strongly
recommend you wear a belt and buckle as if you take your
waist coast and jacket off for dancing you will not be
properly dressed without a belt and buckle. Therefore
we offer this as an option.
A ruche tie should NOT be worn with a small wing collar
shirt as the wings are too small.
Please Note: We do have some dark navy jackets with
shiny buttons that look best with modern, dark, navy
tartans to be worn with navy or off white kilt hose.
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ARGYLL OR BRAEMARS
The Argyll or Braemar are general jackets for any occasion,
with shiny, antique or black button options. They are suitable
for weddings, dinners, balls, graduations, christenings, burns
suppers, highland games, ceildhies, garden parties, funerals
and general day wear.
Both can be worn with a plain tie or tartan tie (with or without
a waist coat) or for evening wear with a bow tie (with or
without a waist coat). With a ruche cravat a five button waist
coat must be worn.
Argyll
Argyll or Braemar can be worn with a black or white plain front
shirt with a double cuff and cufflinks, with ruches or long ties. Bow
ties must be worn with a pleat, front wing or standard collar shirt
depending on the occasion. Ruche cravats worn with plain,
standard or spread wing shirts must be worn with a waistcoat.
Dress or semi dress sporrans can be worn or alternatively for a
day event a leather sporran can be worn. Either black, off white,
tartan or coordinating colour hose should be worn with your outfit.
Braemar
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TWEED BRAEMAR
These jackets are for day/casual events, weddings,
highland games, funerals, etc. Jackets should be worn
with plain, tweed or tartan ties or ruche cravats, with
optional five button waistcoat.
For some weddings spread bat wing shirts can be worn
with a ruche cravat. We recommend you wear a semi
dress, day or dress sporran depending on your shirt and
tie option. When choosing your hose you must pick a
colour similar to that of your jacket for example you may
choose grey or black if your shirt and sporran are black.
Off white hose must NEVER be worn with a tweed
jacket.
SHERRIFMUIRS, REGULATION doublets, MONTROSE, KENMORE doublets.
These should be worn for the same occasions as a Prince Charlie jackets and a
jabot shirt and cuffs, or a tunic granddad collar shirt or alternatively a spread bat
wing and ruche cravat.
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JACOBITE
Jacobite jackets and waistcoats can only be worn with Jacobite shirts. These are
considered to be casual outfits.
SPORRANS
Day
Semi Dress
Dress
Specialist Fur
For general dress occasions a semi dress or dress sporran should be worn for day
wear either a day or semi dress sporran.
Your sporran should always be centered on the front of the kilt. The only exception to
this is when dancing with a partner. The sporran should then be worn to the side
upon the hip so not to damage a ladies dress.
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SGIAN DUBH
Sgian dubhs are to be placed in outside of right sock, showing only one inch
of the sgian dubh. When entering company, raise the sgian dubh to about
two inches above the top of the sock. This is to show that you are still partly
armed when everyone sees you. There after you should once again conceal
your sgian dubh so only one inch is visible.
HOSE
When choosing hose you are best to select a colour that complements and
coordinates with the tartan or jacket. Traditional colours are off white, black or navy.
Grey should be worn with a grey tweed jacket.
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GARTER FLASHES
Garter flashes are used to keep your socks up. However; in olden days showing your
tie or flash symbolised a single status letting ladies know you were available.
Flashes that were tucked away were symbolic of married men and men who were
courting.
PLAIDS
Shoulder plaids can be worn with dress jackets for weddings. They can be worn for
photos then removed and put on top of the top table or cake table for decoration.
Piper plaids must only be worn with Montrose or piper doublets.
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DRESS CODE
Suggested dress code by De Bretts should be
included on the bottom of invitations, as both
ladies and gentleman will want to dress in
accordance with your suggested dress code. This
will often be dependent on the wedding venue. It
should be noted on the invitation if you wish ladies
to wear a hat. Below is a description of men’s dress.
Highlandwear: either; day, day/tweed, dress,
black tie/evening wear or white tie.
OR
Morning Wear: We suggest not mixing morning
wear with highland wear. Therefore; if you wear
morning wear you should incorporate a tartan tie,
ruche or hanky to pull together your outfit and
coordinate it with the other guests wearing
highland wear.
OR
Lounge Suits
OR
Black Tie, is either Highland Wear or Black
Evening Suits
OR
Smart Casual
BEST MAN DUTIES
Best man duties include looking after the groom
before, during and after the wedding. Duties also
include organizing the hires of outfits for the
groomsmen. This includes fittings, collection and return of hires, etc.
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TOP TIPS ON WEARING A KILT
Houston Kiltmakers is one of the only hire
companies that personally check and fit your
complete hire outfit. When you come into the
shop to collect you’re outfit, you are more than welcome to use one of our changing rooms to
try it on.
One of our staff members will show you where
everything is assisting you any way we can.
Customers will put on their shirt; socks, shoes
and kilt, then a staff member will put on the
rest for you, showing you where the sporran,
sgian dubh, flashes, kilt pin, and other
accessories should sit. We will make sure you
are 100% satisfied with the look and fit of your
outfit. At Houston’s we carry everything in store so change over’s, are a quick process, compared to many other hire shops that leave
you to it.
Read below for useful hints and tips.
1. Put your socks on first; make sure ribs
on socks are running vertical and not twisted. Top of socks should be parallel
and same length. Put the garter flashes on socks to the outside of your leg,
making sure there is a three to four inch gap between the top of the socks and
bottom of the kilt. About one inch below the knee is an ideal resting point for
the top of your socks.
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2. Put your sgian dubh down the right leg of your sock. If you are left handed it
can be worn down your left leg.
3. Put your ghillie brogue shoes on, twist the laces three to four times and take
round back of the calf. Return them to the front of your shin about 2/3 of the
way up and tie in a normal bow quite firmly and show to the front or side as
preferred. If you find the laces are constantly slipping down and becoming
loose then wrap them lower down your leg or round your ankle a couple of
times.
4. Put on your shirt making sure any creases are ironed out, and put your
cufflinks on.
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5. Make sure the kilt pin is on the front apron only, on the
fringed side of your kilt about two inches from the bottom and
side of the fringe.
6. Put your kilt on making sure it is a good fit and it sits well up (about one and a
half inches above the hip bone). Then look at the front apron and make sure
the centre line is down the middle of the kilt so it is well balanced with pleats
to the back. When looking in the mirror the kilt should be in an A shape with
the sides well balanced.
7. Clip the chain strap onto the sporran, then put the chain
strap through the kilt belt loops and fasten your sporran at
the back of the kilt. Make sure the sporran is centred to front
apron as shown by the arrow positioned in the image (right),
positioned about four to five inches below the top of the kilt.
You can rest the chain strap on top of the kilt buckles if you
wish. This will secure the sporran a bit better.
8. Then put the belt and buckle on covering the chain strap. We recommend
jacket wearing a belt as if you remove your jacket and waistcoat during an
event the outfit will look bare, so we include a belt with all our hires. Check
that the belt buckle is about one to two inches above the sporran.
9. Put on your waistcoat, then jacket. Make sure the jacket is fitting square on,
with the waistcoat buttons, tie, sporran, buckle and kilt centre line all straight
up and down. If driving to a venue, we advise that you hang the jacket up in
the back and put it on when you get out the car. Try not to drive with your
jacket on as it may crease.
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10. If you are wearing a shoulder plaid, fasten under your left
hand jacket lapel and fasten with plaid brooch onto jacket
only.
11. Finally put on your tie, bow, ruche or standard tie.
12. Make sure you have a dram in your sporran flask and have an optional sprig
of heather for your button hole.
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Final Useful Information
On request we can send one of our highly trained staff members to your hotel or
house on the morning of the wedding to help you and your party get dressed. Terms
and conditions apply; hotel or house location must be within forty miles of the shop
and at least two months notice should be given (price available on request). At
Houston’s we provide the highest level of quality service which is well worth it for the most important day of your life.
Opening Hours
We are open Monday to Saturday 9:00am till 5:30pm. Late night appointments are
available Monday and Thursday until 6:00pm by appointment only. Please call for an
appointment on 0141 889 4879. We advise booking appointments for Saturday in
particular as it is our busiest day. We only open Sunday’s pre Christmas by
appointment only.
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Formal Occasions
For formal occasions your Highland wear should be worn with a black tie. Such
formal occasions will include occasions such as black tie dinners, balls, graduations
and weddings. The Prince Charlie jacket traditionally comes with shiny buttons and
the silver wear to match however; antique buttons and silver wear have of late
become more popular and are available as an upgrade.
The jacket is more popularly worn with a spread bat wing shirt or a standard collar,
plain front shirt in white or black with a plain or tartan ruche cravat. It can be worn
with either a 3 or a 5 button waistcoat however; we recommend a 3 button waistcoat
with tartan ruches.
Prince Charlie jackets must be worn with natural seal skin, black/alternative fur or
dress sporrans and black or off white kilt hose or tartan hose. We strongly
recommend you wear a belt and buckle as if you take your waist coast and jacket off
for dancing you will not be properly dressed without a belt and buckle.
Houston's top quality black Prince Charlie Jacket has a fantastic cut and fit with satin
lapels. It is made of super light weight wool.
Casual or Semiformal
Causal occasions in terms of your Highland wear include sporting events such as
football and rugby. For such occasions a pull over can be worn or alternatively a
football or Rugby shirt. For general day wear your kilt can be worn with a pull over.
Length of the Kilt
The length of kilt differs in every country. For example, in Scotland it would be
recommended to wear your kilt at the middle of the knee.
Alternatively in America the kilt is generally worn in the middle or middle to top
quarter of the knee. Therefore length is an individual preference.
Kilts are made without a hem however; when making kilts for children we generally
add a 2 inch hem which can be let down as the child grows.
If you are unsure of your measurements and stay locally it may be beneficial to
contact Houston’s and arrange a fitting as you want your kilt to fit perfectly. Alternatively if you live overseas and are unable to visit us in store we have a helpful
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collection of videos available online at www.kiltmakers.com which provide various
demonstrations of measurements and further more information regarding individual
kilt packs and accessories.
Jacket colours
We have various stock colours of jackets available including navy, French navy, dark
green, mid green and wine. We can also produce made measure tweed jackets in
almost any colour with a choice of 26 stock coloured linings. The colour of tweed is
generally chosen to coordinate with your chosen tartan.
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Tartans
There are over 14,000 tartans available and registered through The Court of the Lord
Lyon, The Scottish Tartan Authority and The World Tartan registry.
Lord Lyon
The Lord Lyon King of Arms, the head of Lyon Court, is the most junior of the Great
Officers of State in Scotland and is the Scottish official with responsibility for
regulating heraldry in that country, issuing new grants of arms, and serving as the
judge of the oldest Heraldic court in the world that is still in daily operation. The post
was formerly held by an important nobleman, whose functions were in practice
carried out by his assistant, the Lyon-Depute. The practice of appointing LyonDeputes, however, ceased in 1866.
The Lord Lyon is responsible for overseeing state ceremonial in Scotland, for the
granting of new arms to persons or organisations, and for confirming given pedigrees
and claims to existing arms.
Scottish Tartan Authority
The Scottish Tartans Authority was formed in 1996 by Scotland's leading weavers
and tartan retailers and enjoys a unique mix of governors from both the private and
commercial sectors. They are a registered Scottish Charity with the major objective
of promoting a deeper knowledge of Scottish Tartans, their origins, manufacture,
use, history and development and we study, record and stimulate research on the
subject. A vitally important objective has also been to compile and maintain the
International Tartan Index to record and document all known historical tartans and to
provide a free, dependable and accountable information resource for the public and
a 'register' for the Recording of all new tartans. This has now been given over to a
government body; the Scottish Tartan Register.
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How to find out what tartan to wear
You can wear any tartan for any occasion. Traditionally hunting, ancient, modern and
weathered tartans were worn with tweeds and day jackets for outdoor functions,
hunting and highland games whilst dress and modern tartans were worn for formal
events and black tie dinners. Nowadays people tend to choose tartan for its aesthetic
value, a family or clan connection or to coordinate with wedding colours.
There are around 14,000 commercially produced tartans all of which are available to
be seen in store at Houston Kiltmaker's or viewed on line via our website
www.kiltmakers.com. Some tartans are privately owned and require permission to be
worn however; this refers to only a few hundred of the 14,000 tartans available to
you.
Many will initially ask to see their family or clan tartan. There can often be variations
of a single tartan as a single clan name may have modern, ancient, weathered and
hunting variations. If your selected name has no individual tartan it may be that your
name is a sept of another. In Scotland, a sept is often a family that is absorbed into a
larger Scottish clan for mutual benefit. You can do a search on www.kiltmakers.com
to find out if your family name is affiliated to any other clan. Similarly in Ireland the
word sept is used to refer to a group of people with both a common surname and
origin. In recent times Irish septs are sometimes called clans, although Ireland does
not have a clan system similar to that of Scotland. If your name is of Irish or Welsh
origin we can trace affiliated names if you contact us by phone with a specific
request.
Whilst many will want to wear their family or clan tartan, others for whatever reason
choose to instead wear a district tartan or national tartan. Alternatively, many will
choose tartans anyone can wear which are more fashionable. There is a large
variety of national tartans including Scottish National, Flower of Scotland,
Braveheart, Spirit of Scotland, Scotland the Brave, Monarch of the Glen, Spirit of
Bannockburn, Millennium Tartan and Isle of Skye. Other national tartans available
from Houston’s include Irish Districts, Irish National, Irish Blood, Welsh National, Cornish National, Canadian and some American such as New York and American
National designed by Houston’s. All of these tartans can be worn by anyone. If you choose a kilt purely for its look, purple, blue and grey are currently in vogue
and amongst the most popular choice of tartans. Houston’s own designs which
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include ‘St. Mirren’, ‘Scottish Heather’ and ‘Bute Heather’ collections are predominantly grey with hints of various other colours including pink, purple, blue,
red and beige and have proved amongst the popular selection for kilt buyers.
Houston’s have also brought kilt design into the new digital age by creating a ‘My Tartan’ free app that can be downloaded via the apple app store. The app allows you to design your very own tartan to buy. Past customers have designed a new tartan
for weddings by incorporating elements such as pattern and colour of both the bride
and grooms family or clan tartan. By combining both names not only can you create
a new family tartan but you can name it appropriately possibly with a combination of
the bride and grooms surnames. This tartan would be one of a kind and can be
made private so permission would have to be granted for anyone else to wear your
tartan. This is the kind of personal touch to make the best day of your life that little bit
extra special.
Special Weave Tartans
Houston's can provide special weave tartans, not usually available to the market.
They are woven in 16oz heavy weight, 13oz medium weight,11oz light weight, or
even silk fabric. If you wish to have a special weave kilt made to order in one of
these tartans you should contact Houston's directly via phone or email.
We can also Teflon coat and stain proof special weave tartans.
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Types of Tartan
Modern
MacDonald of Clan Ranald
Modern tartans are woven in rich, dark colours. The colours are always stronger and
can be worn with navy blue or black jackets.
Ancient
MacDonald of Clan Ranald
Ancient tartans are woven in soft, lighter colours. Ancient tartans can be worn with
black or a range of tweed jackets.
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Weathered or Muted
MacDonald of Clan Ranald
Weathered or muted tartans are woven in faded and muted colours. This gives the
tartan an older appearance. In olden days, these tartans were coloured by natural
pigment dyes.
Hunting
Hunting MacDonald of the Isles Ancient
Hunting tartan tends to be woven in darker colours, more commonly in green for a
camouflage effect.
Dress Tartan
MacDonald Modern
Dress tartans are basically any of the above tartans woven with lots of white through
the design. Dress tartans are generally worn by women.
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Weights of tartans
19 oz kilts are generally for regimental wear but are available in around six tartans.
16 oz/17oz kilts are the largest range available with a choice of around 14,000
tartans. Heavy weight kilts are the best as the kilt sits and swings better. Heavy
weight tartans can also be Teflon coated making them stain proof. Contrary to
popular belief, heavy weight kilts are not any warmer than medium or lightweight
kilts. It is in fact the top half of your outfit such as your jacket and waistcoat that
generate heat. The majority of jackets are heavy weight however;; Houston’s have perfected their own super light weight jacket which has a great cut and comfortable
fit.
13oz Medium weight kilts are normally produced for Irish and Welsh national tartans.
Medium weight kilts come in a choice of around 1000 tartans
11oz light weight cloth would normally be woven for ladies skirts, gents’ trousers and waistcoats, children’s kilts, children’s trousers and ties. Kilts do not have a hem
around the bottom of the garment however;; children’s kilts can be cut for growth. A
hem of around 2 to 3 inches will be added, and can then be let down when the child
grows a bit taller.
8 oz fabric is used to make coordinating ties or bow ties and also ladies dresses.
Wool, like the 11oz lightweight cloth can be used for ladies and gents’ trousers and waistcoats.
Silk is available in 80 tartans and can be used to make ties, bow ties, waistcoats and
ladies dresses.
Cotton and Poly Cotton can used to make napkins and shirts.
Poly Viscose is a washable and stained proof fabric generally used for school
uniforms and children’s highland wear.
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Teflon Coating
At Houston’s we were the first to Teflon coat/stain proof all our tartans, which makes
our kilts and jackets fully protected from rain and stains. The fabric is even beer
proof! The wool has the same handle and is fully breathable, making them safe to
wear to rugby and football matches.
We calculate that over the life span of your kilt you will save approximately £180 to
£260, not having to get your kilt dry cleaned as often. This also helps the
environment. The Teflon coating lasts a minimum of 18 dry cleans.
Samples and Swatches
If you would like a sample or swatch of tartan we offer these free of charge to
customers. If you live locally there will be no charge for postage. If you live overseas
there will be a charge of £5.00 GBP for postage as we ship thousands overseas. If
you proceed to order from Houston’s this amount will be deducted from your final
cost. We would also suggest that if a colour has already been chosen for the theme
of a wedding e.g. if the colour pink has been chosen for the bridesmaids dresses it is
helpful to bring a sample of the fabric into the store when inquiring about hiring or
buying for the event. This allows Houston’s to show you the best coordinating tartans and furthermore, give you the option to have ties made to coordinate with your
chosen colours.
The Reputable Mills
At Houston’s we tailor our kilts from pure wool tartans woven by Scotland’s top quality, reputable mills. We have all mass produced tartans by Lochcarron, House of
Edgar, Strathmore, Bute Mill, Martin Mills, Batley & Dalgleish in 250 swatch book
forms available to view in store.
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Kilt Packs – The Best Way to Buy
Kilt packs are really the best way to buy a kilt outfit. Not only will you probably get a
great saving on the individual price, buying a kilt pack ensures you get absolutely
everything you need.
Check with each individual retailer to find out what their kilt packs include, Houston’s
kilt packs include:

Jacket

Waistcoat

Shirt

Tie

Kilt

Shoes

Socks

Belt and Buckle

Sporran and Chain

Sgian Dubhs

Garter Flashes to match

Kilt Bag and kilt clamp
Kilts
Yardage
The traditional 8 yard kilt is the standard measure of gents’ kilts. The kilt sits high on
the waist, an inch and a half above the hip bone. This would be worn for formal
occasions, and it is recommended that the 8 yard kilt be woven in a 17oz heavy
weight fabric as this sits and swings better when worn. Some men’s kilts are still woven in 6 yards of cloth however 8 yards is the standard measurement for gents. 6
yard kilts are now more commonly made for women’s kilts.
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Utility Kilts
The term ‘Utility Kilt’ is more widely known in America. They are more commonly
referred to in the UK as ‘modern’ or ‘contemporary’ kilts. These kilts have featured in
the clothing markets of Scotland, America and Canada. They are available in a
variety of different fabrics including leather and cotton. They are designed similarly to
a traditional Scottish kilt. Some are fashioned with a traditional knife pleat. The kilts
are designed for casual, sport and recreational wear. Therefore; many are designed
with pockets and so is worn without a sporran. Usual yardage is 4 to 5 yards.
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Kilt Finishes
Basic Hand Finish
These kilts are traditionally hand cut and made. They do not have as much
preparation time spent on the layout. On the back of the kilt you will see some
stitching at the top of the pleats, this gives the kilt an authentic look. With a standard
finish kilt there is always running maintenance through the life of the kilt, like the odd
burst stitch which can be easily repaired. We are finding less and less customers
going for this finish. Delivery time 8 to 10 weeks.
Super Hand Finish
This kilt is 100% traditionally hand cut and made by kilt makers who are passionate
and take a great deal of pride in their trade and spend a lot more time preparing the
cloth, chalking and marking the tartan before cutting out the kilt to the exact
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template. Like any craftsperson the better preparation and time taken, the better the
job. The majority of our 8 yard kilt sales are in super finish. This kilt has 3 buckles
and straps, canvas and lining with 2 belt loops and approximately 23 good knife
pleats. At the back of the top of the kilt pleats there is hardly any stitching to be seen.
This kilt takes longer to make due to the pleats being stitched from inside. The
stitching of the buckles and straps are reinforced for extra strength. These kilt
makers are much older with 25 years experience in the art of kilt making. This is our
Rolls Royce or Savile Row of kilts. Note - it generally takes an extra 4 to 5 hours to
make a super finish kilt and is generally maintenance free. Delivery time is 4 to 8
weeks. We highly recommend super finish kilts. You only buy a kilt once in a lifetime,
they are worth the extra as the whole kilt is far more superior made and will last a
lifetime.
Super Hand Made Deluxe Kilt
This is made to a far higher standard than a super handmade kilt. Preparation time is
doubled and matching and setting is far more accurate. The kilt is 90% hand cut and
made, with reinforcing by machine around buckles, waistband, belt loops and all key
important areas. Finally all checked over and super pressed to keep the pleats nice
and sharp. The very best kilt anyone can buy.
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Basic Machine Finish Kilt
We have introduced this basic kilt due to the success of our casual machine made
kilts. This is a starting price kilt, ideal if you only want to wear a kilt once or twice a
year. These kilts are all hand cut but fully machine made, resulting in quicker
production. On the back of the kilt at the top of the pleats you see a small line of
machine stitching. This is a good value kilt, but not quite The Real McCoy.
Super Machine Finish Kilt
As the basic machine finish kilt but a lot more time preparing the kilt, marking out and
cutting out the scallops so the kilt sits and fits a lot better, it is 50% handmade. This
kilt is £30 more than the Basic Machined kilt and is far better finish. You will see a
row of machine top-stitching down the back of top of pleats of the kilt.
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Superior Super Machined Kilt
superior super machined under stitched kilt, which is 60% handmade, all the
preparation is by hand cutting the scallops to template, then stitched by machine
under the pleats, reinforcing around the buckles, straps & belt loops, finally all
checked and hand finished, and super pressed to keep the pleats nice and sharp.
Kilt Pleating
Normal set
Kilts should have a minimum of 23 pleats. Kilts may be pleated to the set as normal,
or regimental set pleated on the line where a tartan has a predominant stripe. We
also make sure that the stitching at the top of the pleats on the back of the kilt is
done underneath and therefore concealed.
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Regimental Pleat
Pleating of regimental kilts varies. Traditionally regimental kilts were fashioned with
box pleats however, of late have been created using knife pleats. Regimental
pleating can be performed in two fashions the first; pleating to the stripe. It has been
previously suggested that military or regimental pleating was introduced to create a
distinction between regimental and other tartan pleating. With this; creating a defined
aesthetic representative of uniformity. Military pleats will have a prominent single or
multiple lines that run the length of each pleat. Alternatively regimental pleats can be
pleated to the set. This is a variation of the previously mentioned process, where the
prominent single or multiple lines feature in the pattern of each alternate pleat
instead of each individual pleat.
Box Pleat
Box pleats are not very common nowadays but can still be made upon request. A
box pleat is similar to a knife pleat except back to back.
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Tartan Selvage Edge or Tuck in Edge
Small technical note: In the 21st Century most kilt cloth is still being woven on
traditional shuttle looms which gives the proper selvedge edge required in kilt
making. This is the cloth edge at the bottom of the kilt which generally is fairly
straight and even. There are however occasions when the selvedge edge can finish
slightly uneven or wavy, this is your authentic traditional finish and this can be
attributed to several factors. The main cause can more than often be traced to the
dyeing process. When dyeing natural wool fibres, one colour may have to have
longer in the dye-vat at extremely high temperatures to ensure colour fastness.
Correctness which can result in this colour reaction fractionally different when the
woven cloth goes through the washing/drying process, with one colour shrinking ever
so slightly more than another. An excess shrinking of half a percent does not sound
very much but this is all that it takes to give a slightly uneven edge. This is something
we have to accept to a degree when the best of natural wools are processed in the
traditional manufacture of kilt cloth.
More mills are now using powered rapier fast wearing looms for a tuck in edge which
is a straight edge. This creates the same weight of tartan at a better price.
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Feileadh Mor
The Feileadh Mor is a length of thick woollen cloth. The garment is draped round one
shoulder of the wearer and the cloth is then gathered by hand and secured by a wide
belt. The cloth can also be worn over both shoulders or draped over your head to
protect your highland wear from adverse weather.
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Jackets
PRINCE CHARLIE
Prince Charlie jackets are worn to dress occasion
such as black tie dinners, balls, graduations and
weddings. It is traditionally worn with a 3 button
waistcoat with a black bow tie and a white
standard or wing collar pleat front shirt.
Alternatively it can be worn with a plain black or
white front shirt, with double cuff and cufflinks.
The Prince Charlie jacket traditionally comes with
shiny buttons and the silver wear to match
however; antique buttons and silver wear have of
late become more popular.
The jacket is more popularly worn with a spread
bat wing shirt or a standard collar, plain front shirt
in white or black with a plain or tartan ruche cravat. It can be worn with either a 3 or a
5 button waistcoat however; we recommend a 3 button waistcoat with tartan ruches.
Prince Charlie jackets must be worn with natural seal skin, black/alternative fur or
dress sporrans and black or off white kilt hose or tartan hose. We strongly
recommend you wear a belt and buckle as if you take your waist coast and jacket off
for dancing you will not be properly dressed without a belt and buckle. Therefore we
offer this as an option.
A ruche tie should NOT be worn with a wing collar shirt as the wings are too small.
Please Note: We do have some dark navy jackets with shiny buttons that look best
with modern, dark, navy tartans to be worn with navy or off white kilt hose.
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ARGYLL OR BRAEMARS
The Argyll or Braemar are general jackets for any
occasion, with shiny, antique or black button options.
They are suitable for weddings, dinners, balls,
graduations, christenings, burns suppers, highland
games, Ceilidhs, garden parties, funerals and
general day wear.
Both can be worn with a plain tie or tartan tie (with or
without a waist coat) or for evening wear with a bow
tie (with or without a waist coat). With a ruche cravat
a five button waist coat must be worn.
Argyll or Braemar can be worn with a black or white
plain front shirt with a double cuff and cufflinks, with
ruches or long ties. Bow ties must be worn with a
pleat, front wing or standard collar shirt depending on
the occasion. Ruche cravats worn with plain,
standard or spread wing shirts must be worn with a
waistcoat. Dress or semi dress sporrans can be worn or alternatively for a day event
a leather sporran can be worn. Either black, off white, tartan or coordinating colour
hose should be worn with your outfit.
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TWEED BRAEMAR
These jackets are for day/casual events, weddings,
highland games, funerals, etc. Jackets should be
worn with plain, tweed or tartan ruche cravats, with
either a five button waistcoat or no waistcoat. For
some weddings spread bat wing shirts can be worn
with a ruche cravat. We recommend you wear a semi
dress, day or dress sporran depending on your shirt
and tie option. When choosing your hose you must
pick a colour similar to that of your jacket for example
you may choose grey or black if your shirt and
sporran are black. Off white hose must NEVER be
worn with a tweed jacket
STRATHGLASS TUNIC
The Strathglass Tunic is similar to the design of the
Prince Charlie jacket, but with Argyll gauntlet cuffs and
no tails at the back. This garment is made to order and
available in any stock colour. The jacket should be
worn to dress occasion such as black tie dinners,
balls, graduations and weddings. The Strathglass
Tunic traditionally comes with shiny buttons and the
silver wear to match however; antique buttons and
silver wear have of late become more popular.
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TWEED ARGYLL
The Tweed Argyll is a day or casual wear
tweed jacket. It can be made in the Argyll
style with gauntlet cuffs, The Crail style with
one button cuff or the Braemar style with the
Prince Charlie cuff. The jacket is suitable for
highland games, ceilidhs’, parties and general day wear. It can be worn with a day
or semi dress sporran, with a standard
collar shirt and tie. Alternatively a Tweed
Argyll can be worn with a dress sporran,
high button waistcoat and a ruche tie. The
garment can be made in any kind and
colour of tweed and comes with a choice of
26 coloured linings. Made to measure by
our Scottish tailors the jacket comes as
standard with antique, black or imitation
stag horn buttons. Real stag horn buttons
are available as an upgrade.
REGULATION DOUBLETS
Regulation Doublets are similar to the Prince
Charlie but with tash flaps all round the bottom of
the jacket. It is like the back of the Kenmore
Doublet, with gauntlet cuffs and a waistcoat. This
should be worn for same occasions as a Prince
Charlie jacket with a standard or wing-collar pleatfront shirt. Regulation doublets should be worn
with Prince Charlie jackets and a jabot shirt and
cuffs, a tunic granddad collar shirt or alternatively a
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spread bat wing and ruche cravat. The jacket is all
wool available in stock colours black, navy, French
navy, green, or wine. Other colours or velvets are
available for an additional cost.
SHERRIFMUIR
The Sherrifmuir should be worn with a waistcoat
and Jabot shirt or Tunic shirt (granddad style) with
optional Jabot and cuffs or bat wing shirt & ruche
tie. It can have a gauntlet or Prince Charlie cuffs
with tash flaps all round the bottom of the jacket,
similar to back of Kenmore Doublet. It should be
worn for the same occasions as a Prince Charlie.
The Sherrifmuir is all wool and available in stock
colours black, navy, French navy, green, or wine
and made to order. Other colours or velvets are
available for an additional cost.
MONTROSE DOUBLETS
Montrose Doublets are generally worn with a Jabot shirt
or Tunic shirt with optional Jabot and cuffs. The jacket
has a plain straight back and is worn for same occasions
as a Prince Charlie. This made to measure garment is all
wool and available in stock colours black, navy, French
navy, green, or wine. Other colours or velvets are
available for an additional cost.
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KENMORE DOUBLET
Very similar to the above Montrose Doublet except that it
has no flap over the front, it
Instead has a five button front. It can have gauntlet or
Prince Charlie cuffs with tash flaps all round the bottom of
the jacket. The Kenmore Doublet is all wool and available
in stock colours black, navy, French navy, green, wine
and made to order. Other colours or velvets are available
at an additional cost.
MESS JACKETS
A mess Jacket and waistcoat can be worn with plain or
contrasting lapels and cuffs, or even tartan lapels and cuffs
or tartan waistcoat. Best worn with trews or trousers, it can
even be worn with a kilt. Mess jackets can be worn for
same occasions as the Prince Charlie.
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JACOBITE HIGHLANDER
The Jacobite Highlander has a capped shoulder and
split sleeve detail so the shirt sleeves can be seen. This
also allows more movement of the arms. This jacket is
available in black, navy, dark green or moleskin olive.
NOTE Jacobite Highlander Jacket option with full
sleeves, no splits.
CLANSMAN DOUBLET
The Clansman Doublet is similar to frontier jacket but
with full sleeves. The jacket should be worn with a
Jacobite shirt for casual occasions such as Ceilidhs
parties or general day wear. The garment is all wool,
made to measure in Scotland and available in stock
colours black, navy, or dark green.
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PEITEAN
These specialist jackets can be made in any colour of
barathea, wool tweeds or velvets. The Peitean should be
worn for casual occasions, Ceilidhs, parties or day wear.
The jacket is made to order in Scotland and available in
stock colours, black, French navy, navy, green, wine, or
grey tweed with other colours or velvets available for an
additional cost.
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Trews
TARTAN TROUSERS
Tartan Trousers can be worn with blazer, Prince Charlie jacket & waistcoat,
Argyll/Braemar Jacket or casually with a pullover or Jacobite jackets or Peiteans.
Tartan trousers are all wool made in 11oz or 13oz cloth although we recommend
11oz for trousers. Trousers can be made in any tartan, any style plain or pleat front
with 1 optional hip pocket. You can select from plain or turn up bottoms, and trousers
will be made in any fit and finish you desire. Trousers are made to order and further
optional upgrades are available (see below). If you wish, trousers can be made in
poly viscose making them machine washable. Trousers are also available in 80
tartans Stain Proofed.
TARTAN ARGYLL TREWS
The tartan Argyll trews are to be worn for formal functions
such as dinners and weddings. These trews are best
worn with Prince Charlie Jacket, Mess Jacket or Argyll
Jacket. The trews are 100% all wool made in 11oz or
13oz cloth. They are made to measure and available in
any tartan, any style, fit and finish. The difference
between Argyll trews and trousers is that trews have a
high 3 inch waistband with wide belt loops for a kilt belt
and one optional hip pocket, with further upgrades
available (see below).
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TARTAN FISH BACK TREWS
Tartan Fish Back Trews are best worn with a Prince Charlie Jacket & waistcoat,
Mess Jacket or Argyll Jacket. The trews are 100% all wool made to measure by our
Scottish tailors and can be made in 11oz or 13oz cloth in any style, fit and finish your
wish. The trews are high waisted with a fish back tail and one optional hip pocket.
They are best worn with braces as self supporting waist. For one piece leg only
inside seam + £50 extra. Further upgrades are available (see below). For trouser
and trew styling detail please see self measurement form available to download at
www.kiltmakers.com
TREWS OR TROUSERS UPGRADES
If you wish trousers 1/2 lined front or back +£20 • fully lined front or back +£30
Extra Hip Pocket +£10 • Zip Pocket +£10 • Flap Pocket +£10
Self Supporting Waist +£10 • French Bearer +£10 • Button Fly +£10
Brace Buttons +£5 • Button Taped Heels +£10
Front Stitching Crease +£10
Military Trews with Single Seam as extra cloth +£50
Plus 4’s Velcro or strap & buckle +£40
Plus 2’s Velcro or strap & buckle +£40
BESPOKE TROUSERS/TREWS + £50
*Please note prices quoted for 28” to 44” waist.
Sizes 46” to 50” + 15% 52” to 56” + 20% 58” to 66” +40% as more cloth is required.
Special cloths are extra + 13oz Old & Rare
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Sporrans
The word is derived from Gaelic for purse. The sporran is a pouch used as a
decorative part of Highland dress but it was originally used as a practical item for
everyday use.
They are made from leather or fur with metal or silver bands. They are worn on a
chain or belt around the waist, allowing the sporran to lie below the waist. As Kilts do
not have pockets, they serve as a useful place to hold wallets or even a wee dram.
The sporran also protects a person's decency. This was originally because the
ancient Fhèilidh Mor, formed of a one long draped cloth, had a gap at the front.
Day Sporrans
Day Sporrans are generally less ornate, usually simple
brown or black leather pouches with little embellishments.
As the name suggests they are worn in less formal
occasions during the day with a tweed or day jacket.
Alternatively it can be worn with a pullover, shirt or other
casual attire.
Semi Dress Sporran
As the name suggests this a sporran that is more formal and
more ornate than a Day sporran but not quite as intricate for
formal as a Dress Sporran. They can be used either during
the day or at a formal occasion with a tweed or day/ semi
dress jacket.
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Dress Sporrans
Dress Sporrans are usually larger than Day Sporrans and
are significantly more ornate. Victorian examples were
often ostentatious, and very different from the simple
leather pouch of the 17th or 18th centuries. They usually
have chrome or silver cantles trimming the top of the
pouch and a fur covered face with fur or hair tassels.
When dancing the sporran can be moved to the side of
the waist, to hang on the hip in a more casual position
How Much to Pay?
Sporrans vary greatly in price and the difference is usually driven by the quality of
materials and how ornate the designs are. Also Solid Silver Sporrans can be more
expensive. For a Day Sporran you would expect to pay between £40 and £100, for a
Semi Dress sporran you would be paying around £80 and £120 and for a Dress
Sporran between £150 and £250. A solid Silver Sporran would cost more at around
£1000 to £4000.
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Socks
The Socks that are worn with a Kilt are called
Hoes. Kilt Hoes come in a number of colours,
traditional mute colours. When choosing hose
you are best to select a colour that complements
and coordinates with the tartan or jacket.
Traditional colours are off white, black or navy.
Grey socks should be worn with a grey tweed
jacket and tartan hose.
Shoes
The Shoes you wear when wearing your kilt are
called Gillie Brogue Shoes. Gillie Brogues are
traditional soled shoes with no tongues and long
laces. The laces are traditionally wrapped around
and tied above the wearer's ankles so that the
shoes do not get pulled off if being word in the
mud. The shoes lack tongues so the wearer's feet
can dry more quickly in the damp Scottish
weather. The Gillie Brogue is named after the
Gillie, the traditional Scottish gamekeeper and
outdoorsman. A good day brogue or buckle shoe
can also be worn with your highland wear.
How Much to Pay?
Gillie Brogues are available in a variety of quality and colours, mainly brown and
black. You should expect to pay around £70 to £140 for a pair of Gillie Brogues. For
£60 you will get decent quality leather shoes, for £140 you will get softer, better
quality leather.
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Sgian Dubhs
Sgian Dubh is Gaelic for Black Dagger. As the word 'Black' means secret or
hidden this weapon was hidden in socks, only to be used as a last resort. It
would only be exhibited in the presence of a host out of courtesy. The sgian
dubh was placed in the wearers hose in a concealed position. Sgian Dubhs
come in a large range of designs and specifications. Horn handles are
generally used for day wear and for casual wear, dress black and brown
with silver are for dress and semi dress occasions. Some sgian dubhs are
hand crafted in ebony or mahogany and mounted on hallmarked solid silver.
These and are a good investment for the future and can be an ideal
heirloom for years to come. Sgian dubhs are to be placed in outside of right
sock, showing only one inch of the sgian dubh. When entering company,
raise the sgian dubh to about two or three inches above the top of the sock.
This is to show that you are still partly armed when everyone sees you.
There after you should once again conceal your sgian dubh so only one inch
is visible. A day sgian dubh traditionally has a stag or wooden top. Dress
sgian dubh’s will have metal work or stone tops with the option of upgrading to clan crest and solid silver sgian dubh’s will have silver mounts.
Belts & Buckles
These add the finishing touch to any kilt outfit and
are recommended to be worn with all kilts. It is
recommended that you wear a belt and buckle with
your highland wear as if you are attending an
event and remover your jacket and waistcoat later
in the evening your outfit will look unfinished. Most
belts are available in black or brown leather. We
also have a large range of buckles available in
Palladium or silver plated, antique and solid silver.
These come in various designs including our
popular clan crest buckles.
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Clan Crests
Clan crest accessories include kilt pins, cuff links,
sgian dubhs, cap badges, sporrans and belt
buckles. Clan crest accessories and jewellery are
available in most clans. Please state what clan
crest you are looking for when ordering. Clan
crest accessories are available in rhodium plated
or solid silver or alternatively; in an antique finish
but please note an extra cost will be charged for
this. The clan crest range can be viewed online
at www.kiltmakers.com
Kilt Pins, Flashes and Brooches
We have a large range of kilt pins available, in solid
silver or palladium plated. Alternatively kilt pins are
available in an antique finish but please note an extra
cost will be charged for this. We also have a varied
range of beautiful ladies brooches which include
jewels and Celtic designs. All of which are available
to view at www.kiltmakers.com
The purpose of tartan flashes is to keep the
gentleman’s socks up. We have a range of plain
colours which we carry in stock. Alternatively
flashes can be designed in tartan to match your
kilt.
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Plaids
Shoulder plaids can be worn with dress jackets for
weddings. They can be worn for photos then removed
and put on top of the top table or cake table for
decoration. Piper plaids must only be worn with
Montrose or piper doublets.
Basic plaid is the biggest seller of all our plaid based
on the cost. Long Plaid or Pipers' Plaid is a full length
three and a half measure of tartan with fringed edges.
In Scotland this plaid is worn mainly by pipers in Pipe
Bands, whether it is civilian or Regimental.
Centuries ago the plaid was worn on the upper half of
the body to protect the wearer’s head and shoulders in adverse weather conditions. Plaids are gathering and
wrapped around the body across one shoulder.
Drummers will normally wear the fly plaid round their
waist so not to restrict their arms when they are playing.
Modern Kilts
Currently our most fashionable kilts include colours such as grey and purple. It
seems that customer’s overseas wish to purchase their family or Clan tartan, whilst the home market wear colours which are in vogue. Grey and purple tartans, like
national tartans are associated with our online category ‘Tartans for Everyone’. Amongst our most popular grey and purple tartans are Ken MacDonald’s Tartan designs which include ‘St. Mirren’, ‘Scottish Heather’ and ‘Bute Heather’ collections are predominantly grey with hints of various other colours including pink, purple,
blue, red and beige. Houston’s own designs can be Teflon coated which makes them
stain (and beer!) proof and are woven on the Isle of Bute in Scotland. These kilts can
be cut for growth therefore, if through the years your kilt needs to be taken in or let
out through weight gain or loss we can make adjustments to your garment.
Furthermore, we can design your kilt with pockets which are handy and efficient for
day wear.
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Women’s Kilts and Apparel
We have a wide range of ladies garments including dresses, kilts, mini kilts, blouses,
trousers, jackets, and waistcoats. Skirts and kilts are woven in fine wool. 10oz/11oz
wool is best however 8oz is also available. Alternatively we use silk for simple
straight skirts or soft pleated fan skirts. Furthermore, we have a range of ladies
accessories including brooches and kilt pins. In store we have ladies tartan
handbags and can also have other pieces made especially for events such as
weddings. Tartan can be incorporated into your own dress or your bridesmaid’s
dresses, and we can make ring cushions of the same tartan.
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Children’s Kilts and Apparel
Children’s kilts are often worn for school wear, religious ceremony, weddings and various other special occasions. Kilts are made with no hem, but at Houston’s we cut children’s kilts for growth. This means that a hem is added and it can be let down as the child grows therefore ensuring it lasts for as long as possible. We can also cut a
child’s kilt for growth round the waist by 2 to 4 inches. Also available are poly viscose
kilts for children which are machine washable. You also have the option to have the
child’s kilt Teflon coated. All Houston’s own designs are Teflon coated but this is available for other tartans which are not an original Houston’s design. This is ideal
for school uniforms as Teflon coating stain proofs the fabric.
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Quality
Teflon/Stain Proofing
Quality is essential when purchasing your highland wear. A kilt is a garment which
will last you a lifetime, and should be treated as such. It is in your best interest to buy
the best quality fabric and finish. Houston’s suggest you buy a 16oz heavy weight kilt
as it sits and swings better than a medium or lightweight kilt. Many of our customers
overseas believe they should purchase a lightweight kilt as they live in a warmer
climate. However; it should be noted Heavy weight 16oz kilts are NOT any warmer
than a lightweight or medium weight kilt. It is the upper half of your outfit such as
your jacket which generates heat. This is why Houston’s recommend our customers buy a lightweight jacket. Houston’s own top quality Prince Charlie has taken 20 years to perfect. It is a super lightweight all wool jacket, with a fantastic block, cut and fit. It
is made of 100% lightweight all barathea wool and the jacket is also stain proof.
It is important that you buy from a reputable kiltmaker who will offer you a high level
of customer care, including aftercare for your garment. You should always ask your
kiltmaker before purchasing what they offer in terms of an aftercare service you’re your bespoke item. Like any other bespoke item your kilt through the years may
need some minor adjustments.
Houston’s advise that you have your kilt cut for growth. This means that your kilt can
be let out if you gain weight or similarly, taken in if you lose weight. It is also
suggested that you have your kilt Teflon coated which will help protect your garment
from stains and keep it in mint condition for as long as possible.
At Houston’s we were the first to Teflon coat/stain proof all our tartans, which makes our kilts and jackets fully protected from rain and stains (ideal for spillages!). The
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wool has the same handle and is fully breathable, making them safe to wear to rugby
and football matches.
We calculate that over the life span of your kilt you will save approximately £180 to
£260, not having to get your kilt dry cleaned as often. This also helps the
environment. The Teflon coating lasts a minimum of 18 dry cleans.
If your kilt becomes creased in storage you can lightly steam it. If you are
considering having your kilt professionally cleaned it is recommended to give your
cleaner a small sample of tartan to practise first. This will rule out any potential
damage, as cleaners worldwide might not have cleaned a kilt at all before. As a
made to measure garment you want to eliminate any risk of damage.
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Kilt Care
If your kilt becomes creased in storage you can lightly
steam it. If you are considering having your kilt
professionally cleaned it is recommended to give your
cleaner a small sample of tartan to practise first. This will
rule out any potential damage, as cleaners worldwide might
not have cleaned a kilt at all before. As a made to measure
garment you want to eliminate any risk of damage.
There are various ways to store and transport your kilt and
highland wear. Our deluxe carry carries your kilt, jacket and
all accessories and is available in Grey or Navy. The deluxe
carry has a kilt tube which your kilt can be rolled up and
stored in. The deluxe carry includes a large zip cover which
we refer to as the wardrobe this will be used to store your
jacket. The large zip bag also has pockets to hold your
shoes, shirt, sgian dubh, sporran and other accessories.
We also stock wooden clamp kilt hangers, which are great
for hanging your kilt.
When storing your kilt in the wardrobe you should make
sure that it is contained in a protective cover with moth balls
so there is no risk of damage or wear.
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FAQ’s
Q. Do I need to be Scottish to wear tartan?
A. No. You don’t need to be Scottish to wear tartan. Anyone can wear tartan however; some tartans are restricted and require permission to be worn.
Q. What Tartan can I wear?
A. Look at Houston Kiltmakers web site www.kiltmakers.com and go to Tartan
anyone can wear and you will find a tartan databank and a list of Tartans. If not go to
name finder and you can key in your name which will link to a Sept or affiliated tartan
you can wear e.g. Houston is a Sept of MacDonald so Houston can wear
MacDonald. Also anyone can wear:- Scottish Heather, our own Bute Heather
Collection, Black Watch, Braveheart, Flower of Scotland, Blue Heather Collection,
Millennium, Scottish National, Isle of Skye, Scotland The Brave, St Mirren.
All District Tartans e.g. Paisley, Glasgow, Ayrshire, etc. Also a range of Irish Tartans,
Including Irish National + All 33 Irish Counties Tartans, Air force tartans and
Canadian tartans.
Q. What If I don’t have a Clan or Sept Tartan for my name?
If you don’t have a clan or sept tartan you can wear a national tartan such as Scottish or American National, or a genetic tartan such as Flower of Scotland or
Braveheart. Alternatively you could view Houston’s latest designs which include the Bute collection. The colours used in these tartans are in fashion and these tartans
fall into the category of tartans for everyone.
Q. What is the difference in Modern, Ancient, Hunting, Dress & Withered
Tartan?
A. Most Tartans come in: Ancient: Soft lighter colours
Modern: Strong dark colours
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Hunting: Any of the above tartan usually with lots of
green
Dress: Any of the above with lots of white through them
Withered or Muted: A faded and muted washed out dyed
colour in any of the above tartan
Q. Do I need to wear all the things in an outfit?
A. It is recommended that you wear the entire outfit which consists of a kilt, shirt,
jacket, waistcoat, shirt, tie, socks, shoes, belt, buckle, sgian dubh, sporran and
additional accessories such as clan crest jewellery or kilt pin. If the full ensemble is
not worn your outfit can appear incomplete. Each item in your kilt pack is part of a
long tradition and the complete outfit is symbolic of Scottish history and heritage and
should be worn with pride.
Q. How much does a complete outfit cost?
A. A kilt price ranges from £300 to £600. A kilt pack can cost between £600 and
£1400. If you are buying and live out with the EU you will get the tax free price and
so will receive a substantial discount (around 20% tax rebate on deduction).
Q. What is the difference between a Budget & Top Quality Kilt Pack?
A. Budget Kilt Pack is a basic Poly/Wool Jacket, Basic range of tartans in basic kilt
finish, Basic Sporran, Basic Socks, Flashes, Ghillie shoes with leather uppers& man
made soles. Note: Any part of a Budget outfit can be up graded. You just pay the
difference; we strongly recommend upgrading the Kilt to a Super finish kilt.
Top Quality is all Wool Jacket, 13oz medium Kilt choice of 500 Tartans or a 17oz
Double width 120 popular tartans in a heavy weight Kilt. Better Sporran, Socks, Kilt
Pin, Flashes, Sgian Dubh, Ghille Shoes leather upper & sole and you get a Belt &
Buckle.
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Q. How long does it take to make a kilt?
A. Normal delivery time is 4 to 8weeks for a Standard Finish Kilt. Super Finish takes
4 to 8 weeks. At busier times it may take a bit longer plus shipping time.
Express Service available in approx, 2 weeks £50.
Q. Can I get a kilt made quicker?
A. Yes you can. Make up time 10 to 14 days plus £50 for an Express Service,
subject to kiltmakers work load plus shipping time.
Q. What is the difference between Kilt finishes?
Super Hand Finish Kilt
This kilt is all traditionally hand cut and made. The kilt maker spends a lot more time
preparing the cloth, chalking a marking the tartan before cutting out the kilt to the
exact template. Like any crafts person the better preparation and time taken, the
better the job. 95% of all our 8 yard kilt sales are in super finish. This kilt has 3
buckles and straps, canvas and lining with 2 belt loops and approximately 23 good
knife pleats.
At the back of the top of the kilt pleats there is hardly any stitching to be seen. This
kilt takes longer to make due to the pleats being stitched from inside.
Some parts of the kilt, like buckles and straps are machine stitched for added
strength. These kilt makers are much older with 25 years experience in the art of kilt
making. This is our Rolls Royce or Savile Row of kilts. Note-it generally takes an
extra 4 to 5 hours to make a super finish kilt and is generally maintenance free.
Delivery time is 4 to 8 weeks, Express service 2 weeks + £50 extra. We highly
recommend super finish kilts. You only buy a kilt once in a lifetime, they are worth the
extra as the whole kilt is far more superior made and will last a lifetime.
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Standard Hand Finish Kilt
These kilts are traditionally hand cut and made. They do not have as much
preparation time spent on the layout. On the back of the kilt you will see
Some stitching at the top of the pleats, this gives the kilt an authentic look. With a
standard finish kilt there is always running maintenance through the life of the kilt,
like the odd burst stitch which can be easily repaired. We are finding less and less
customers going for this finish. This finish is
£60 less (£51 tax free) than a super finish kilt. Delivery time 8 to 10 weeks.
Super Machine Finish Kilt
As the basic machine finish kilt but a lot more time preparing the kilt marking out and
cutting out the scallops so the kilt sits and fits a lot better. This is a far better kilt than
the basic machine kilt and is worth the £30 extra. Delivery time 4 to 6 weeks.
Express delivery 2 to 3 weeks at £40 extra.
Basic Machine Finish Kilt
We have introduced this basic kilt due to the success of our casual machine made
kilts and also the high exchange rate with the pound sterling for our overseas
customers. These kilts are all hand cut but fully machine made, resulting in quicker
production. On the back of the kilt at the top of the pleats you see a small line of
machine stitching. This is a good value kilt, but not quite ‘The Real McCoy’. This finish is £30 less than the Super machine finish. Delivery time 4 to 6 weeks. Express
delivery 2 to 3 weeks at £40 extra. We offer a full range of kilts suitable for any
occasion. Generally customers buy a kilt once, to last a lifetime. It is used for many
different purposes so it’s important to take time on choosing the correct tartan and
type of kilt as it will last a lifetime and can be passed on as an heirloom. We
recommend an 8 yard kilt. We find customers go for the best weight of cloth and best
finish as the kilt is the heart of the outfit. It will become an old faithful friend you will
have for life, maturing with age.
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What is a Selvage Edge?
A. Selvage edge on kilts. Small technical note: In the 21st Century the bulk of kilt
cloth is still being woven on traditional shuttle looms which gives the proper
selvedge edge required in kilt making. This is the cloth edge at the bottom of
the kilt which generally is fairly straight and even. There are however
occasions when the selvedge edge can finish slightly uneven /wavy, this is
your authentic traditional finish and this can be attributed to several factors.
The main cause can more than often be traced to the dyeing process. When
dyeing natural wool fibres, one colour may have to have longer in the dye-vat
at extremely high temperatures to ensure colour fastness. Correctness which
can result in this colour reaction fractionally different when the woven cloth
goes through the washing/drying process, with one colour shrinking ever so
slightly more than another. An excess shrinking of half a percent does not
sound very much but this is all that it takes to give a slightly uneven edge.
This is something we have to accept to a degree when the best of natural
wools are processed in the traditional manufacture of kilt cloth.
Q. What is the best weight of Kilt?
A. 11oz light weight is fine for children and ladies kilts (some Professional Dancers
go for 11oz) 11oz is also suitable for waistcoats and trousers. 13oz medium weight is
the best. It holds its pleats well, (if in a warm country this will do). This weight is also
satisfactory for making waistcoats and trousers. 17oz heavy weight is the very best,
again holds pleats well it hangs and sits better. It’s what all kilts used to be made long ago. Also if you are big (and have a tummy) this weight will sit better.
Q. I live in a warm country is there lighter versions?
A. Heavy weight 17oz kilts are the best quality and are recommended to customers.
These kilts sit and swing better but are NOT any warmer than a light weight or
medium weight kilt. It is the upper half of your outfit such as your jacket which
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generates heat. Wool is a natural yarn, cool in summer and warm in winter. It can be
a bit of a fallacy that a 17oz heavyweight Kilt is warmer than a medium weight kilt. It
is what you wear on your top half of the body that makes the difference. A lot of our
jackets are super light weight.
Q. Heavy weight 17oz Kilts what is the difference on D/W and S/W prices?
A. D/W=Double Width 17oz Heavy Weight is woven on modern wide machines and
produces most popular 120 tartans more cost effectively at approx 54” Wide. Note: It
takes a fully automatic machine 4 to 5 days to weave a bolt of cloth or 11 kilt lengths.
S/W = Single Width 17oz Heavy Weight strome is woven on older narrow machines
which produce the full 750 range of Tartans and are more expensive to weave at the
approx 26” wide. They are both the same weight and quality. It takes a man on a
hand loom 11 days to weave a bolt of cloth or 11 kilt lengths.
Q. Do Pipe Bands get discounts?
A. Yes. Any band with multiple orders, please contact for further details.
Q. Do all kilts need to be made of tartan?
A. Generally yes, kilts should be made of tartan. However; we can make kilts in
leather.
Q. I want to wear my kilt to a football or rugby match, what should I buy?
A. For sporting events your kilt should be worn with a sweater or pullover.
Alternatively, the kilt can be worn with a football strip or rugby jersey.
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Q. How long before an important function should I order a kilt or kilt outfit?
A. All Highland Wear accessories are generally stock or obtainable within a week to
10 days. There could be a problem with the tartan. Most mills have the cloth in stock
about 90% of the time. If the cloth is out of stock this can take up to 16 weeks for it to
be rewoven plus 4 to 6 weeks to make the kilt (i.e. if one mill is out of 17oz Black
Watch tartan we could get it from another mill, the shades and the settings on the
check may vary). If only one mill weaves your cloth and you can’t wait for it, go for your second choice, if you have one. We do recommend you stay with your first
choice as it is worth waiting for it to be rewoven. The kilt will last a lifetime so it’s worth the wait!! (Remember we can organise a courtesy loan of a hire kilt if you
require it for a special occasion. If it is a mail order customer you pay for postage
both ways)
Q. What is the busiest time for Houston’s Kiltmakers?
A. We are busy all the year round. The extra busy times are prior to the
Burns Night 25th January, St. Patricks Day 17th March, St. Andrews Day 30th
November, Christmas and Hogmanay, and of course Summer weddings.
Q. What length should a kilt be?
A. This is an individual choice. We suggest anywhere from the top of the knee to the
lower middle of the knee.
Q. How do we measure?
A. We can take measurements in inches, or centimetres. Just state what country you
are from. Houston’s also have a conversion on our web Site at
http://www.kiltmakers.com Houston’s can fit from small boys up to extremely large &
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tall men. (E.g. Up to 24”colars, 72”chests & 72” waists and 7ft tall. You will have a
self measurement form in this information pack which tells you how to measure and
on Houston’s Video it will tell you how to measure (you can see the video on our
website too).
Q. Can a kilt be altered?
A. Yes it can, if you lose weight we can take the kilt in, if you put
Weight on we sell strap extensions (£15 for a set of 3), or we can move the
Buckles and straps or even fully re-make the kilt. We can also shorten kilts.
Please ask for a quote.
Q. Why buy a Kilt Outfit from Scotland?
A. Most importantly it is all made in Scotland, with all Kilts professionally made, for
that once in a lifetime purchase it’s worth getting it from Houston Traditional
Kiltmaker the home of the finest Kiltmakers and probably the best Highland Outfitters
in the world. (Paisley is the birthplace of The Stuart Dynasty where King Robert the
Bruce received absolution. It’s the home of the world famous Paisley patterned
shawls and Elderslie just next to Paisley is the birth place of William Wallace).
Q. How much will it cost in my currency?
A. Houston’s prices in UK £ Sterling and Tax Free prices out with the
European Community in small grey text. Houston’s have a currency conversion on
our web site. http:// www.kiltmakers.com
Q. Who qualifies for Tax free shopping?
A. Any person out with the European Community e.g. USA, Canada, Japan, South
Africa, New Zealand, Switzerland, Norway, Australia etc. A British person has taken
up residency for 2 years or more out with the U.K & EC countries and also residents
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of the Channel Isles. All Goods sent to customers out with the E.C. will automatically
have the U.K tax taken off. Houston’s VAT no 263 1138 84.
Please note: some Countries may put an import duty tax on imported goods.
Customers must find out what their countries Taxes are.
Q. Tips for Wearing Your Kilt
A. 1. Put socks on, make sure ribs are vertical and tops are parallel. Put garter
flashes on with flashes to outside of leg. Make sure there is a 3” gap between bottom of kilt and top of socks.
2. Put sgian dubh down right hand leg sock with about 1” of top showing.
3. Put gillie brogue shoes on, twist laces three times and take round back and return
to front. Tie in bow about 6” above shoe. (Note: Then shirt & bow tie on)
4. Put your kilt on with pleats to back. Kilt should be a snug fit sitting high on the
waist.
5. Put kilt pin in front apron only, at bottom right hand side looking down and 2” in
from fringe.
6. Put sporran on next and position correctly on front. Put chain strap through belt
loops and fasten at back.
7. Put belt and buckle over chain strap through belt loops and fasten with buckle to
front. Then put your waistcoat & jacket on.
8. Make sure you have a dram in your sporran flask!
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FURTHER HELP AND INFO
Owner of Houston’s Ken MacDonald has had his own kilt for over 30 years and it is well maintained due proper care and storage.
For further information on tartans as well as advice on what to wear and how to wear
it please view our helpful video clips at www.kiltmakers.com/tv/
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MAIL ORDER
How To Order
Phone:
Call us anytime between 09:00 and 17:30 GMT to give your order personally to a highland wear expert or if you have any questions on
0141 889 4879 or overseas +44(0)141 889 4879 or from USA/Canada 01144 141 889 4879 or Freephone 0800 072 0386 (UK only)
Outside these hours you can leave a message on our answering service with your name, address & telephone number and we will call you
back. Ken Macdonalds personal mobile phone UK on 07932 112439, 7 days a week 7am to 22.00 hrs GMT.
Fax:
Fax us anytime, 24 hours a day on 0141 889 4879 or international +44 (0)141 889 4879
Email:
Email us anytime, 24 hours a day at [email protected] or order through our website at: www.kiltmakers.com
(We have a safe secure server for credit card details).
Post:
Send your completed order form to:
Houston Kiltmakers, 67 High Street, Paisley, Renfrewshire, PA1 2AY, Scotland. UK
Payment: We accept all credit and debit cards
American Express
Visa
Mastercard / Mastro
Diners Club
Delta
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Style
Postal Orders
Cheque
Bankers Draft/Transfer
Please write your name, home address on the back of your cheque. We only charge £100 to your credit card as a deposit until the
Highland outfit is complete and we will charge the balance on dispatch of your goods. We are delighted to accept orders from anywhere
in the world. You may contact us by Post, Phone, Fax, Email.
Delivery: Domestic Shipments are all fully insured
Stock Service goods delivery within 1-2 working days, £10.00 postage for any address within the UK mainland; Highlands &
Islands 2-4 days, £20; Northern Ireland 2-4 days, £20.
For any order over £2000, delivery is free in the UK.
IF GOODS ARE OUT OF STOCK we will advise you.NOTE: On made to order goods delivery can vary from 3 to 6 weeks we will advise delivery times. We can also arrange courtesy
Kenneth William
MacDonald
Tartan Designer
& Governor
loan kilts or full hires if required, details on request. (Hires are free but customer pays postage both ways.) This is all part of our service. ADJUSTMENTS Some times minor adjustments are
required if you call customer service we can advise how to fix or adjust.(sometimes they can easily be fixed by customers themselves) Goods can be returned to us, we will
adjust & post to customers. NOTE: Customers must pay postage for goods to paisley. We will pay postage returning goods back to the customer if in the UK, (overseas customers must pay both ways).
If customers need kilt,refitted ie If they loose or put on weight in years to come we can alter accordingly, or kilts can even be remade. (We will be pleased to give a quote.) GUARANTEES stock
items, faulty goods, if bought for a present or if wrong size of product we will replace or give refund within 30 days, you must have your receipt for proof of purchase. All
goods have 1 full year guarantee. NOTE: Most of our goods will last for many years. MADE TO ORDER GOODS eg kilts, trousers, jackets. These items are made to your sizes
some times we may have to have a fit on or two to adjust to get to fit you correctly. This is all part of our service.
INTERNATIONAL ORDERS: International Shipments Customers must pay all postage charges and goods are fully insured in transit.
You may track all parcels via UPS website at www.ups.com or DHL via dhl.com
LETTER POST (small items) eg Ties, small cost goods.
Via www.interlink-express.com by road or air
NOT Tracked or Insured. First Class.
UK
500 gms
£10
1 kilo
£10
2 kilos
£14
delivery time 1-3 days
(approx.)
EUROPE WORLD
£10
£12
£15
£25
£25
£40
6-14 days 10-20 days
UK
1-2 days
Up to 5kg
Up to 10kg
Up to 30kg
£10
£10
£20
HIGHLANDS CHANNEL
& ISLANDS
ISLES
2-4 days
2-4 days
£20
£25
£30
£40
£60
£70
CLOSE
EUROPE
2-4 days
FAR AWAY
EUROPE*
3-5 days
USA
AIR*
2-4 days
£20/AIR £35 £40/AIR £55 AIR £80
£25/AIR £45 £45/AIR £75 AIR £100
£35/AIR £80 £50/AIR £160 AIR £220
UK Next Day by 1pm - £20 extra UK Returns: Uplift Collection + £25
*Please ask shop for quote as customs clearance charge may apply
FAST DELIVERY Datapost/By DHL or UPS Fast Express by Air Fully track backed and insured.
Data Post
by DHL or UPS
up to 2 kilos
up to 6 kilos
delivery time (approx.)
UK Tax Refunds:
CHANNEL
ISLES
£35
£45
2-3 days
EUROPE
£40
£60
2-3 days
USA/CANADA FAR EAST
£55
£80
3-5 days
£85
£120
4-5 days
REST OF
WORLD
£90
£125
5-6 days
Value Added Tax (VAT) refunds can be given to customers outside the European Community & Channel Islands, either by visiting our shop or by
mail order, please call for details or see our website. All orders out with European community will automatically have UK Tax deducted. Please also
note that some countries may or may not charge import duty or tax on delivery on random inspections since 9/11.
Conversions:
We are also connected with a local designer
dressmaker, who can make any style of wedding
gown, dress, skirt or flower girl dress. In tartan silk,
crepes, satin etc. Made to order.
Wedding gowns from £1,000
Corset dress from £500
Dresses from £400
Skirts from £300
Joyce Young
0141
Currency conversion and size conversion facilities are available at
our Internet site.www.kiltmakers.com
After Care
Houstons offer an after care service second to none. If you have any
query, problem, or if your kilt needs any minor adjustment, please
call us and we will be happy to assist you.
Returns Policy/complaints
We will happily alter exchange or refund unsatisfactory goods.
Before you send any goods back, please call to obtain provisional
approval and details of how to pack and return the goods.
(Customers are responsible for postage, insurance & proof of delivery of return goods to
Houstons).
HOW TO CANCEL AN ORDER You must contact us urgently. STOCK ITEMS
Can be cancelled any time before we despatch. If we have sent them out you can
return non worn goods with receipt & goods still with all their packaging and we
will give full refund of goods (But no refund on postage). If MADE TO ORDER
GOODS eg kilts, trousers, skirts, waistcoats, jackets. After placing order & you
wish to cancel you must contact us urgently, we will give full refund if the cloth
has not been dispatched, or if cloth is at our kiltmaker you will get a 90% refund
because of handler charge. If cloth has been layed out to cut & started to make
goods we can give a 50% refund.
Flower of Scotland Tartan
If you need any
further help
don’t hesitate
to call me.
Customer Service:
If you require help with any aspect of your order or need further
information regarding clans, tartans or tartan samples please do
not hesitate to call our friendly staff who will do their upmost to
assist you. (please not prices correct at time of going to print).
Business Hours:
Personal Shoppers are always welcome to visit our shop anytime.
Open 6 days a week.
Monday to Saturday 9am to 17:30 GMT
& Open all holiday Mondays 11am to 16:00 GMT
Ken MacDonald
Designers & Suppliers of
uniforms for
Open late night Monday or Thursdays till 18.30 by appointment only.
Sundays 12am to 16.00 (By appointment only. Must be made 2 - 3 weeks in advance).
How easy is it to get to Houston kiltmakers?:
We get customers coming from all over the U.K. We also get
customers coming from all over the world, if a customer is in
London visiting they can easily get an economy flight to Glasgow
Airport, we are 5 minutes from the airport. Customers find our
map and directions very easy to follow. Just follow brown road
signs to Paisley Museum, we are opposite museum. Easy car
parking close by.
Designers of
Telephone
Scottish Heather
0141 889 4879
email: [email protected]
48
Tartan
✃
ORDER NO.
Highland Wear and Tartan Specialists
PURCHASE ORDER FORM
Order Date
/
/
Delivery Date
/
/
PLEASE REMEMBER IT TAKES 4 TO 6 WEEKS
TO MAKE A KILT
Name:
Please tick method of payment
Delivery Address:
VISA
MASTERCARD
STYLE
AMERICAN EXPRESS
MAESTRO
DELTA/CONNECT
CHEQUE
(Allow 5 days for clearance)
If you are buying a kilt and have a tartan swatch, please cut in half and post with order.
Special Instructions
County:
POSTAL ORDER
(Sent same day)
Country:
Postcode/Zip Code:
Home Tel. No:
Work Tel. No:
Fax:
START DATE:
E.Mail No:
EXPIRY DATE:
CREDIT
CARD No:
ISSUE NO:
LAST 4 NOs ON BACK OF CARD:
Ref No.
Size
1st Choice
Tartan, Clan
Qty.
Weight
of
cloth
2nd Choice
Total
Description
Price
£
Kilt Super Hand or
Kilt Basic or Super
Super Hand Delux Finish
Machine Finish
Kilt Pack Argyle or Prince Charlie, Budget or Top Quality
p
please delete where applicable
Sgian Dubh
Kilt Pin
Sporran
Belt
Socks
TAX FREE SHOPPING: For customers outwith the European Community goods are priced in U.K. price list
inclusive of V.A.T. at 20% we will automatically deduct the U.K. Tax from value of goods. When shipping to
countries outwith the E.C.
Customs regulations of your home country may or may not require payment of Import Duty.
Shoes
Flashes
TOTAL £
LESS TAX IF OUTWITH E.C.
UK POSTAGE / PACKING + INSURANCE = £10.00
ORDERS OVER £2000 FREE POSTAGE U.K. ONLY.
24 HOUR DELIVERY AVAILABLE MAINLAND UK FROM £10.00. HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS FROM £20.
DEPOSIT MINIMUM 25%
(OVERSEAS ORDERS WE MUST CHARGE POSTAGE ON ALL ORDERS SEE PAGE 40 OR WEB SITE FOR CHARGES)
BALANCE
PLEASE TICK FOR :
NORMAL DELIVERY
+ POST / PACKAGING
SHIPPING + INSURANCE
EXPRESS DELIVERY
+ small extra cost
BALANCE TO PAY
ON DESPATCH
£
TRACKING
JACKET
CLOTH
Signature
KILT STD F / SUP F
PLEASE GIV E DETA ILS OF
SIZE FOR CORRECT FIT
BELT & BUCKLE
SPORRAN
COLLAR
CHEST
WAIST
SEAT
INSIDE LEG
KILT LENGTH
SHOE
HAT
HEIGHT
AGE
WEIGHT
KILT PIN
FLASHES
HOUSTON TRADITIONAL KILTMAKERS
67 HIGH STREET, PAISLEY, RENFREWSHIRE, PAI 2AY SCOTLAND U.K.
TEL: 0141 889 4879 FAX: 0141 889 4879 (24 Hours) INTERNATIONAL +44(0)141 889 4879
E.MAIL: [email protected] WEB SITE: www.kiltmakers.com
VAT. NO. 263 1138 84
49
STOCK LOCATION
SGIAN DUBH
SOCKS
SHOES
CUSTOMER CALLED
FOR STAFF USE ONLY
50
-E
Head
Forward
Square
Shoulders
Round
Back
Long
Neck
Corpulant
Fit
Normal
Fit
10
9
8
VERY IMPORTANT
Quality/weight 11oz/13oz/17oz/19oz
1 1/2 to 2” above the hip bone snugly round your waist,
SUPER
SUPER DELUX
HAND MADE
SUPER
BASIC
MACHINE MADE
STATE KILT FINISH (Please tick)
12
11
10
9
8
FRONT CREASE
STITCHED
BOTTOMS
Plain
Turnups
Taped +
EXTENSION &
FRENCH BEARER
NO LINING LEG
HALF LINED
FULLY LINED
FRONTS PLAIN
PLEAT 1 or 2 FRONT
2 SIDE POCKETS
1 or 2 HIP POCKETS
ZIP / BUTTON FLY
BELT LOOPS
Normal Belt
Kilt Belt
Self Supporting
Brace Buttons
(Semi Elastic Back waist Band for
Ladies only)
FISH BACK TREWS
CLASSIC TROUSERS
ARGYLL TREWS 3” WAISTBAND
STYLING FOR
TROUSERS
Description
Long Back
Adjustable
Non Adjustable
BACK
Satin
Colour..........................
Tartan
BUTTONS
3, 4, 5, 6,
Celtic ◊
Thistle
Silver, Sand Blast Antique,
Black, gilt,
Bone
Horn, International Black
Real Stag Horn
POCKETS
2
4
WAISTCOAT STYLING
FOR
P/C
ARGYLL
SHERIFFMUIR
SUIT
CLASSIC
FASHION
6
2
4
3
5
TROUSERS
1
1
8
3
WAISTCOAT
1
2
7
6
Style:
Style:
Cloth:
Cloth:
Around
Around SEAT
(with legs together)
(over shirt)
WAIST
Lenght INSIDE LEG from crutch to
bottom of trouser leg
waistband to bottom of trouser leg
CLOTH
HEIGHT
Around trouser BOTTOMS
for finished width
8
7
6
5
3-4
1-2
1-6
5
4
1-3
TRACKING
TAYLOR
READY
In s tr uc ti ons
LENGTH of side seam from top of
S pe ci al
NAPE to BACK
of Waistcoat
Around WAIST
(over shirt)
Around CHEST
(over shirt)
From centre of back of neck
to front point of waistcoat
1-2
MAN/ BOY/ LADY/ GIRL
From centre of back of neck
to top button
TAILOR
Around knee of trouser for finished width
5
4
SELF MEASUREMENT FORM
ALL MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES OR CENTEMETRES WHEN SUPPLIED ARE TAKEN AS CORRECT AND WILL BE ADHERED TO WHEN PRODUCING THE GOODS. WE WILL CALL YOU TO CHECK SIZES THOROUGHLY.
WE CANNOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR ITEMS NOT FITTING DUE TO INCORRECT MEASUREMENTS. WE RECOMMEND YOU PHOTOCOPY THIS FORM FOR ORDERING PURPOSES.
HOUSTON KILTMAKERS, 67 HIGH STREET, PAISLEY, RENFREWSHIRE PA1 2AY, SCOTLAND U.K. TELEPHONE 0141 889 4879 EMAIL [email protected]
Skirt style Pocket/Lined
LADIES
WEIGHT
is a second check for us.
HEIGHT Measurement is very important as it
add four fingers inside the tape to avoid getting this measurement too tight
as the seat should be an easy measurement. (with no wallets etc. in pockets)
SEAT Measure round your seat at heaviest part,
(guide man 5ft 10” approx 24” kilt length)
Keep your head up. Best to get someone to measure this
When kneeling erect, base of kilt should be approximately 1” off the floor).
LENGTH Start measuring 1 1/2 to 2” above your hip bone
to top or middle of your knee (whichver you prefer length-wise.
Note: kilts site high up, NOT where trousers sit
on waist, about your tummy button.
(about 1” below ribcage).
C-D
1-7
6
5
4
A/B
3
1-2
*Do not add anything to these measurements
HEIGHT
Shoulder
Full length
(of jacket)
Crown to Cuff
(ideally measured with a
jacket on for accuracy
Around SEAT
Around WAIST
(natural waist)
Half Back
Around CHEST/bust
measure at fullest point
under arms making sure the
tape is well up at back over
shoulder blades.
What Suit size would you buy?
(e.g. 42” Short, Regular or Long fitting)
Please look inside your jacket pocket & a
size will be shown
5
Cloth:
Collar seam to waistline
WAIST Start your measuring over shirt only,
(Remember to state whether ‘ANCIENT’, ‘MODERN’
or ‘WEATHERED’ colouring is required)
Tartan:
Sloping
Shoulders
7
2
NAME:
3
4
D
A-B
1
C-
AMF STITCHING
D
Style:
FIGURE DESCRIPTION
Short
Neck
BUTTON
HOLE
6
JACKET
ORDER No.
See our VIDEO on how to measure yourself.
Go to www.kiltmakers.com/measure
KILT
FIT OF JACKET
Normal or
Easy Sye
POCKETS
1 Chest
2 Flapside Buttons or Jetted
1 or 2 Inside
Inside Ticket Pocket
VENTS AT BACK
Single
Double
BUTTONS FRONT
1, 2, 3, Full Set
Celtic, ◊
Metal Thistle,
Silver, Sand Blast, Antique, Gilt
Bone
Horne Kilt Jacket, Imitation
Natural/Black
Suit Buttons
Toggle
Real Stag Horn + £30
CUFFS
Gauntlet
P/C Cuff
(Suit Cuff 1.2,3, Button)
JACKET STYLING
EPAULETTS, Black
or Cloth Matching
or Silver/Black Braid
Pleated or Plain
DELIVERY DATE