Pattern Manipulation
Webinar Presentation
Where to find ideas
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Ready-to-Wear
Fashion magazines
Mail order catalogs
Fashion shows
Window displays
Newspaper
What is Pattern Manipulation?
• Combining ML patterns to get what you want
• Changing ML patterns to get the look
• Overlay other patterns to incorporate design
details of other patterns with My Label
..…….without completely drafting
the pattern pieces
Combining Patterns:
Rules for Exchanging Pieces
• Pattern pieces must be from same type
(blouses/blouses)
• Provision for bust contour must be the same (for
exchanging sleeves)
• Fabric suggestions compatible (knits vs. wovens)
• Always check for presence of shoulder pads—
affects collar, neckline, sleeve)
Combining Pattern Pieces:
Interchangeable Pattern Pieces
• Jacket Sleeves that can be
interchanged:
– Military
– Three-Quarter Coat
– Belted
• Blouse sleeves that can be
interchanged
– Tunic
– Tailored
Interchangeable Pieces
• Collars
– Military Collar
– Three-Quarter Collar
– Tailored Shirt Collar
Interchangeable Pieces
• The Boxy jacket has
no collar and can be
used with these
collars:
– Military Collar
– Three Quarter Collar
– Tailored Shirt Collar
Interchangeable Pieces
• Use print selected feature to
interchange any of the pockets
Changing Pattern Pieces
• Tools you will need:
– Tracing or pattern paper
– Straight Ruler
– Flexible Curved Ruler
– Fashion Ruler
– String
– Scotch Tape
Changing Pattern Pieces
• Transparent Cross Stitch Grid
Changing Pattern Pieces
• String to test neckline on body
Neckline Changes
Determine height of new
neckline and the basic
shape
– Use the pencil tool to
draw the neckline
– Print the pattern pieces,
using the pencil tool as a
cutting line
March 7, 2008
www.berninausa.com
Neckline Changes
• Click and drag any
stitch to the pattern
piece
• Left click with pencil
tool for straight lines
• Left click with shift
key for curved lines
• May want to increase
the width of the line
Scooped Neckline
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Zoom in on pattern piece
Draw design line to CF
Move into place
Move points on line if needed
Select line
Copy/ Paste/ Mirror
Move copied line into place
Widen lines
Simulate
Horseshoe Neckline
V-neckline
• Determine low point of
neckline
• Draw straight line from this
point to shoulder
• Draw slightly curved line
• Measure the new neckline
March 7, 2008
www.berninausa.com
V-neck with inset
• Use pencil tool
V-neck with insert
• Use pencil tool to draw Vneck
• Use pencil tool to draw
insert edge (yellow line)
• Add seam allowance to
insert—can draw with pencil
• Trace pattern pieces after
printed
V-neck with inset
• Simulate to test position
of inset
• Move lines + re-simulate if
necessary
Split V-Neck
• Covered wire in
topstitched seam
allowances helps hold
shape
• Use Embroidery Foot
with Clear Sole # 39 to
couch wire in place just
inside seam line
Boat Neckline
• Shortened shoulder
seam
• Relatively straight
across neckline
Boat Neckline
• Shorten
shoulder seam
• Draw line
straight across
front
• Slightly scoop
in back
Ballet Neckline
• Draw the neckline on the pattern piece
Scooped neckline
• Flexible curved ruler is
great for designing new
necklines that can’t be
designed with the
pencil tool
• Curve the ruler; draw
directly on pattern
Scooped Ballet Neckline
• Use pencil tool since line falls within
pattern
Keyhole Neckline
• Keyhole can be any shape; many sizes
• Use pencil tool to draw keyhole
Adding Keyhole
• Draw neckline first
• Then add keyhole shape
Cowl Necklines
• Extra length in neckline drapes into soft folds
• Use draped string as guideline to determine
length to make neckline
Cowl Neckline
• Draw lines from CF to shoulder
• Spread at slash lines
Cowl Neckline
• More length at CF gives more cowl folds
• More width lowers neckline
Cowl neckline
• Make turn-down facing for
neckline
• Fold pattern across bodice
neckline
• Trace shoulder seam and CF
line to make facing
Shrug Neckline
• Bind shrug overlay
• Piece underneath extends to armscye
Banded Neckline
• Add fabric and make
sleeve transparent to
give illusion of
sleeveless
Banded Pattern
• Draw match points for
facing to bodice
• May need to taper
shoulder seam of bodice
for closer fit at shoulder
Tank Top
• Design desired neckline
• Design armscye
Surplice T-shirt
• Draw curved line on
pattern piece with
the pencil tool
across entire front
pattern
Surplice
• Select line and Move
Internal icon and move
curved points as
necessary
• Edit/Copy
• Paste/Mirror Horizontal
• Simulate + change if
necessary
Finishing neckline edges
• Finish with binding
• Finish with fashion tape
• Use serger cover stitch—turn under seam
allowance and stitch
• Facing—duplicate outside edges
Finishing Neckline Edges
• Finish with fashion tape
– Press tape on wrong side of
seam allowance
– Turn edge to wrong side
– Stitch on machine
• Available in straight or bias;
black or white
Changing Hemline
• Lengthen T-shirt as
desired
• Draw new hemline with
pencil tool
Changing Hemlines
• Preview the design line on
the simulation
• Check the length of the Tshirt
• Add hip ease to this style—
2-4 cm
Adding Collars
• Measure neckline edge
Adding Turtleneck Collar
• Raise neckline at CF
2.5-3 cm
• Measure around
neckline front + back
Add Turtleneck Collar
• Multiply by 2/3—this will
be the length of the
collar—test stretch of
the knit you use
• Determine width of
collar desired
• Cut rectangle for the
collar with greatest
stretch going around the
collar
Add Cowl Collar
Cowl neck added to My Label tee.
Collars
• Full roll collar
Collars
• Shaped Stand Up Collar
– Draw rectangle equal to pattern neck
measurement x 1-1 1/2”
CF
Neck
CB
Drawstring Collar
• Change neckline of pattern
if desired
• Measure around neckline
of T-shirt pattern with tape
measure
• Draw a rectangle, the
length that you measured x
the width desired x 2
Drawstring Collar
• Scan pattern piece into
BERNINA Embroidery
software
• Add buttonholes or
eyelets on the collar
• Weave drawstring tube
in and out of
buttonholes/eyelets
Add shirring
• Decide where to add shirring
• Decide how much to add
Stitching Tubes
• Fasturn Guides
• Fasturn Set
Add Shirring
• Change neckline + hemline with
pencil tool
• Seam added to CF
Add Shirring
• Slash lines drawn
from CF to side seam
• Spread pattern
• Gathering stitch to
draw up extra length
added
Adding Tucks
• Decide if tucks are one-sided
or two-sided; equal or
unequal tucks
• Equal tucks—slashed across
pattern + spread equal
amount
• Unequal tucks—slashed
across total pattern, but
spread uneven amount
• One-sided tucks—slashed
with pivot point
Adding Tucks
• Red tucks are one-sided; yellow dots are
pivot point; slash to pivot point and spread
• Purple tucks are equal; slash and spread
equal amount across line
• Take up of tuck is the
amount of spread
Finished pattern
• Fold tucks in pattern
• Draw across neckline +
armscye line
• Make facing pattern
Pleats at neckline
Pleats on sleeve
Decorative Stitches
• Use your Bernina to add
decorative stitches around
the neckline + sleeve
• Preview those stitches in
My Label software
Adding design seams
• Draw seam with pencil
tool
• Add match marks to
pattern pieces
• Cut apart
• Add seam allowances
Changing Sleeves
• Many of techniques already covered can
be used to change the sleeve
• Let your imagination run!!!
Butterfly sleeve
• Use Short Sleeve of T shirt
pattern
• Print out
Butterfly Sleeve
• Draw slash lines
• Spread pattern
apart and tape to
create flared sleeve
Changing Sleeve: Add Shirring
• Shirred Sleeve
• Use Clear Embroidery
Foot # 39 to couch over
elastic cord with small
zigzag stitch on wrong
side of sleeve
Changing Sleeve: Shirred
Drawstring
• Draw guideline on sleeve
with pencil tool
• Use drawstring to draw up
Flounced Cuff
• Make changes to
the sleeve length in
the My Label
software as desired
• Print the sleeve
Flounced Sleeve
• Cut pattern apart at pencil tool line
• Draw slash lines on lower part of pattern
• Slash & Spread, using pivot point at cut line
• Add seam allowances
Keyhole Sleeve
• Cut sleeve at center
• Face sleeve or bind
Keyhole Sleeve
• Mark with Simflex ruler
• Bar tack at points along length
Basics Rules of Overlay
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Align center backs or center fronts
Align shoulder seams at neck point
Align waistlines—for skirts/pants
Align shoulder match point of sleeve
Overlay Patterns
• Use the key areas of fit from My
Label pattern
– Shoulder slope
– Bust, Waist, + Hip circumference
– Armscye depth
• Use the designed areas from
commercial pattern
Kwik Sew 3378
Overlay Patterns: Front
• Analyze patterns
• Design lines of Kwik
Sew: neckline and
front shape
• Fit areas of My Label
– Shoulder slope
– Bust, waist, + hip
width
– Armscye depth
Overlay Patterns: Front
• Begin tracing CF of
pattern
• Trace neckline of pattern
• ML Shoulder slope
• ML Armscye depth
• Rotate ML pattern
• Trace side seam of ML
• Hemline of pattern
• Trace remaining center
Overlay of Patterns: Back
• Use neckline + CB
of pattern
• Armscye of ML
• Side seam of ML
• Hem of pattern
Overlay of Pattern: Sleeve
• Use sleeve cap of ML
• Use length of pattern
• Use underarm shape of pattern
Pattern Overlay
Changing a top to a dress
• Increase Style property of
finished length from CB
neck
• Add to ease at hip—use
sitting hip measurement as
a guide
T-shirt Construction
• Your best tool for making T-shirts
• Go to your dealer to find which one is best
for you!
www.berninausa.com
• Look at website for
additional ideas
• Learn It>My Label
Classes.
Adding a dart
Locate your apex
Draw three lines from apex
One from apex to armscye
One where you want dart
One parallel to center front
Adding a Dart
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Slash up from bottom to apex
Pivot and slash to armsyce
Slash from underarm to apex
Spread pattern along parallel
line: ½ - 1”
• Let bust dart opening spread
apart to keep the pattern flat
Moving a Dart
• Mark bust apex
• Slash from bust dart
to apex
• Slash from point
where you want to
add the dart
• Overlap bust dart at
stitching lines
Sway Back:
Tops, jackets, & dresses
• Slash from center back to side seam,
overlap at center back seam
Sway Back:
Tops, jackets, & dresses
• Redraw the center
back seam to
straighten the grain
Sway Back: Skirts & Pants
• Fold darts as they will
be stitched
• Lower the skirt/pant at
the center back seam
• Using a curved ruler,
redraw the waistline
seam