English/Spanish 3
2194
®
1/4
ABOUT THIS PATTERN
HOW TO FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE
This pattern is multi-sized for the dress, which means that all of the
available sizes for either the Child’s sizes or the Girls’ sizes are in one
pattern. Since there are four or ﬁve different sizes included, there are
four or ﬁve cutting lines, one for each size. Look closely and you’ll see
that each cutting line is labelled for the size you are going to use.
Finished Projects
The scarf and headband are one size.
This pattern is based on the chest body measurement; each numbered
size (3,4,5,6,7,8,10,12,14) is designed to ﬁt a certain chest
measurement. Follow these simple steps to pick the pattern size you’ll
need to make:
• Have a parent or friend take a tape measure and measure your chest
at the biggest point. This is your Chest measurement.
TIP: Once you pick the size you’re going to make, take a felt-tip marker in
a bright color and trace along the cutting line for that size – it’ll be easier
to follow along and you’ll be 100% sure you cut the line you meant to!
No need to highlight the cutting lines on the one size projects.
Lines with arrows are grain lines which are printed on patterns as a
straight or curved line to show where on the fabric each piece should be
placed. Most of the time the arrow should line up with the lengthwise
grain of the fabric.
A
B
D
C
C
D
C
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
SELVAGE
C
1
D
B
A
8 HEADBAND
FRONT
9 pieces given
7
3
2
1
4
6
• Look for your Chest measurement on the back of the envelope.
Now follow column on the back of the envelope to ﬁnd the numbered size
that goes with your chest measurement. This is the size you’ll cut and
sew.
The ﬁnished dress will be larger than your chest measurement.
This is extra room built in for wearing comfort and for the design shape.
When you ﬁrst open up the pattern
tissue, you’ll see that it comes in
one big piece of paper, with the
pattern shape printed in the middle.
Cutting away the extra tissue will
make the pattern piece much easier
to work with. Cut just outside the
biggest cutting line, and then throw
out the extra; you won’t need it
anymore. Next you’ll have to
smooth out your pattern so that it’s
nice and ﬂat.
double lengthening and
shortening lines and place a
piece of paper underneath.
Spread the pattern pieces
apart the amount you need to
make longer, not more than
1” (2.5cm) and pin or tape in
place, keeping the grain line
arrows lined up straight.
Redraw the cutting line at the
sides and grain lines.
For View A, redraw the
vertical placement line.
FRONT
FRONT
LENGTHEN
HOW TO PREP THE FABRIC
Treat your fabric the same way you would treat your ﬁnished dress –
wash and dry it before you cut anything out.
Q: Why do I need to smooth out the pattern, and how do I do it?
Q: How do I know how to ﬁnd lengthwise grain on my fabric?
9
5
FRONT
To Lengthen- Cut the pattern
apart between the
HOW TO PREP THE PATTERN
D
FRONT
SHORTEN
SELVAGE
CROSSWISE GRAIN
A
To Shorten- Measure the
amount you need to shorten,
not more than 1” (2.5cm),
above the lower printed
lengthening and shortening
line and draw a parallel line.
Fold your pattern on the
lower printed line, bring it up
to the drawn line and pin or
tape in place. Redraw the
cutting line at the sides, if
necessary.
8
1-FRONT -A,B
5-BOW -B
2-BACK -A,B
6-KNOT -B
3-FRONT FACING -A,B
7-SCARF -C
4-BACK FACING -A,B
8-HEADBAND -D
9-TIE END -D
SUPER EASY DRESSES, SCARF
AND HEADBAND-LEARN TO SEW
THEM YOURSELF
What You’ll Need:
• Fabric
• Tape Measure
• Sewing Machine
• Straight Pins
• Thread
• Iron
• Ironing Board
• Fabric Scissors
• Ruler
• Safety Pin
• Hand Sewing Needle
• Felt Tip Marker or Highlighter
• Washable Fabric Marking Pen or Pencil or Chalk
• Seam Ripper
A: Look at your piece of fabric – there are two edges that look ﬁnished and don’t
come apart. These edges are called the selvages, which are formed during fabric
weaving. Lengthwise grain runs in line with the selvages. Crosswise grain runs
perpendicular or vertical to the selvage.
Q: What are these other markings on the pattern?
A: On the pattern pieces like this one, you’ll ﬁnd directions in words and
symbols such as lines, notches and dots. Look at your pattern and check off each
of these items as you ﬁnd them:
Notches are the tiny triangles that are printed in certain spots on the
pattern cutting lines. Their job is to help you line up one piece with
another when you’re putting your dress together. If the notches don’t line
up exactly, the pieces aren’t being put together properly.
LEARN TO SEW TIP: Each size gets its own set of notches – just like
you marked your cutting line with a felt-tip marker, trace along your
notches the same way. This will make sure that you not only get the right
notches for your size, but that you don’t miss any – you’ll need them all to
get it right!
Center line is printed on some pattern pieces as a broken and dotted
line. It can be the center front or center back and it is used for matching
pieces together.
Dots are either small or large circular markings which are used for
matching pieces together.
Solid lines show where to fold the fabric or position trim.
Broken lines are on the pattern piece to show you where to stitch.
Chest and Waistline- are short solid lines printed on the pattern pieces.
Lengthening and Shortening line- is a horizontal double line which
allows you to make the dress longer or shorter, depending on your height
and personal choice.
Seam Allowances- are included in each pattern piece, but are not
marked as actual lines. Stitch the seams 5/8” (1.5cm) from the cut
edges, unless instructed to use a different amount.
Besides understanding the markings, there is also written information
you need to know when sewing your project, such as hem allowance or
name of piece. Always keep the pattern and the pieces of fabric that you
have cut out together, so when you are sewing your project you can refer
to the pattern for this information.
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
A: If the pattern is wrinkled, the shape of the piece gets distorted, and then won’t
be the exact shape you need to make perfect dress. Get it nice and smooth by
taking a warm, dry iron and ironing the tissue – make sure that you have
supervision before using an iron!
LEARN TO SEW TIP: Make sure that there is no water in the tank of the
iron, and that the dial on the iron isn’t set to give off steam – pattern
tissue doesn’t hold up well when wet!
HOW TO SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN THE PATTERN
Everyone is built differently. That’s why
when you buy your clothes, things rarely
ﬁt exactly. Sewing your own clothes
means you can custom-make the pattern
length perfect for you. Here’s how:
Q: What’s the point of pre-washing the fabric?
A: Many fabrics, especially cottons, tend to shrink after they’re washed and
dried by machine. If you make your dress and then put it through the laundry,
you could wind up with shrunken dress that doesn’t ﬁt. Pre-washing the fabric at
the beginning avoids any unpleasant surprises later!
After the fabric is washed and dried, iron out the wrinkles with a hot iron
so that it’s as smooth and ﬂat as your pattern piece. Again, make sure
you have supervision, especially since you’ll need a hotter iron for fabric
than for the tissue paper.
Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, matching up the selvages and the cut
edges and the right sides of the fabric facing each other.
A WORD ABOUT INTERFACING....
Q: What is interfacing and how do I know where I need it?
Find the View and the pattern size you
have chosen and follow that column
down to the ﬁnished garment
measurement for the length.
A: Interfacing is an extra layer of fabric that provides shape and support in
detailed areas of the garment. Interfacing is usually used in necklines, etc. Your
pattern pieces will tell you which pieces require interfacing and how many to
cut.
Have someone help you to take this
measurement. Place a tape measure at
the big bone on the base of the back
neck. Check to see where the ﬁnished
length measurement ends on yourself.
You can try on one of your own dresses
to compare lengths. Also, the picture on
the pattern envelope will give you a good
idea of the right length.
The two basic types of interfacing are sew-in and fusible. The back of the pattern
envelope will tell you which type to buy.
Preshrink fusible interfacing before cutting out pattern pieces. Place
interfacing in hot water for 20 minutes (or until water is cooled). Spread
interfacing ﬂat to dry.
HOW TO CUT OUT YOUR DRESS, SCARF AND
HEADBAND
Pattern Guide
If you are pleased with the length, then you do not have to make any
changes to the pattern. If you want the ﬁnished length shorter or longer,
then you need to change the pattern
pieces 1 and 2 as follows:
Remember those lengthening and shortening lines mentioned earlier?
PATTERN PRINTED
SIDE UP
PATTERN PRINTED
SIDE DOWN
• The following indicates the various ways how the fabric is
folded in the Cutting Layouts:
English/Spanish 3
2194
2/4
★
58" 60" (150CM)
Lengthwise Fold- Fold the
fabric with RIGHT sides
together and selvages are
even.
FOLD
5
6
WITH NAP
3
Q: Why do I have to transfer markings?
4
2
SELS.
B- CUT ONE OF PIECE 6
1
SELVAGES
USE PIECES 3 4
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
Single Thickness- Fabric is
placed RIGHT side up.
4
3
FOLD
★Special Cutting Note
USE PIECE 7
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
A. If layout shows a piece
extending past the fold, cut out all
pieces except the piece that
extends.
ALL SIZES
SINGLE THICKNESS
SELVAGE
SCARF
Before marking your fabric, lace trim is optional for Dress View A.
If you purchased lace trim for View A, then transfer placement lines.
For View B, transfer the center front line, horizontal placement line and
the vertical placement line as far as the horizontal line. Do not transfer
the entire vertical line.
FOLD
INTERFACING
NOTE: Lace trim is optional.
A: Markings such as small dots are matching or placement points and are
transferred from the pattern tissue to wrong side of fabric.
ALL SIZES
Two Lengthwise Folds- Fold
the fabric with RIGHT sides
together so the selvages meet
at or near the center.
HOW TO STITCH THE LACE TRIM VIEW A TO THE DRESS
HOW TO TRANSFER MARKINGS
Pin Marking Method- Stick straight pins through the pattern tissue and
single or double layers of fabric at the ends of solid lines (also known as
placement lines), or at the small dots. When you turn the fabric over to
the other side, you will see the pins poking out through the WRONG side
of the fabric. For dots, make a small circle on WRONG side of fabric at
pin point. For solid lines or broken lines, use a ruler and a washable
fabric pen or pencil or chalk and draw straight lines connecting the pin
points on the WRONG side of fabric.
Then remove pins that are holding the pattern and fabric together lifting
the pattern piece carefully at the pin heads. Mark solid lines or broken
lines on the remaining WRONG side of fabric at the pin heads if the
fabric is double layered; then remove the pins.
7
SELVAGE
D HEADBAND
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
• Place the pattern pieces on the fabric as follows:
For Fold Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the fold
grain line along the fold as indicated in the Cutting Layouts.
For Straight Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the
straight grain line parallel to the selvage as indicated in the Cutting
Layouts. Measure the distance from both ends of the straight grain line
arrow on the pattern to the selvages. When it’s lined up exactly, pin the
pattern at the grain line arrows.
You’ll have to turn some of the pattern pieces over and place on fabric
with printed side down so that top edge of all pieces lay in one direction.
This is necessary if fabric has a design going in one direction.
Your ﬁnal Cutting Layout should look like this one printed below:
NOTE: Make sure you have determined the ﬁnished length of the dress in
HOW TO SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN THE PATTERN and make any
changes to the pattern pieces, if necessary before cutting out the
fabric.
A,B DRESS
6
A- USE PIECES 1 2 3 4
SELVAGES
B- USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6
4
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 3 4 5 6 7 8 10
3
1
B- CUT ONE OF PIECES 5 6
FOLD
6
SELVAGES
4
2
5
B- CUT ONE OF PIECES 5 6
1
3
FOLD
6
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
SIZE 14
B- CUT ONE OF
PIECES 5 6
SELVAGES
4
2
3
1
5
FOLD
SELS.
8
SEL.
9
FOLD
Hand-Basting Method- NOW you will have to transfer solid or broken
lines and small dots to the RIGHT side of the fabric by hand-basting.
Basting may take a little extra time in the beginning, but it’s worth the
effort in the end.
Hand-baste along the marking lines on the WRONG side of fabric.
Basting stitches are formed by simply pulling the needle and thread in
and out of the fabric in approximately 1/2” (1.3cm) long stitches. For
headband, simply make an “X” at the small dot only.
Remove the hand-basting when the project is completed with a seam
ripper. The point on the seam ripper is very sharp so be very careful
using this tool.
Using straight pins, pin the pattern to the fabric- stick the pin all the way
through all thicknesses, pattern tissue and two fabric layers. Bring the
pin point back up through all layers; this will keep the layers together.
Start pinning at the middle of each side and work your way to the
corners, smoothing the tissue as you go to avoid bubbles and wrinkles.
Cut out the pattern shapes,
cutting along the cutting line.
Use sharp scissors and
position them so that the
pattern shape is on the side
that you’re cutting, and the
fabric you’re cutting away is on
the other side of the scissors.
LEARN TO SEW TIP: Make
sure that you keep your fabric
as ﬂat as possible while cutting
out the pattern shape. It may be
tempting to pick it up, but don’t!
The weight of the fabric drags it
down, and the cutting line will
shift out of shape. You’ll wind
up cutting along a line that isn’t
accurate and a shape that isn’t
exact, which will make it really
hard to get a good ﬁnished
result.
Snip edge of fabric at the
center lines or the center fold.
Snip edge of fabric at the
highlighted notches. This is a
quick way to indicate the
markings on the pattern pieces,
but snipping the fabric is not
done for all markings.
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
trim to each side of dress
front, centering the trim along
the vertical placement line for
trim. Upper end of trims
extend above the neck edge.
Cut away this excess trim
even with the neck edge.
Stitch close to both long
edges of trim. The remaining
lace trim will be applied later.
HOW TO STITCH THE RIBBON VIEW B TO THE DRESS
3. On the OUTSIDE, pin three
rows of ribbon to dress front,
centering one ribbon along
the center front line and
placing inner edge of
remaining rows along vertical
placement line for trim. The
lower end of ribbons end at
the horizontal placement line
for trim B and upper ends
extend above the neck edge.
Cut away this excess trim
even with the neck edge.
Stitch close to both long
edges of ribbon.
4. Pin lower edge of ribbon to
front along the horizontal
placement line for trim.
Stitch close to both long
edges of ribbon.
5. Pin lower edge of ribbon to back
along the horizontal placement
line for trim. Stitch close to both
long edges of ribbon.
Q: How should I place each pin, and how far apart should they be?
A: Place each pin just inside the cutting line you’ll be using, with each pin in
line with the printed line – this will keep them out of the way during cutting.
Pins are best placed about 3”(7.5cm) to 4” (10cm) apart, with pins closer
together where you have curves or corners.
2
5
SINGLE THICKNESS
USE PIECES 8 9
B. Open out fabric to single
thickness.
Cut out extending piece on
RIGHT side of fabric in position
shown.
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
SIZE 12
SEL.
2. On the OUTSIDE, pin lace
VIEW A
VIEW B
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS A AND B
6. With the RIGHT sides together, pin
Fabric Guide
RIGHT SIDE
OF FABRIC
WRONG SIDE
OF FABRIC
INTERFACING
center back seam of back sections
together. Match the cut edges and
notches as you pin. Stitch from the
lower edge to the notch; backstitch at the notch to reinforce
stitching. Then machine-baste
above the notch.
To back-stitch, touch the reverse
button on the machine. The basted
area is for the zipper.
HOW TO SEW THE DRESS VIEWS A AND B
1. Stay-stitch neck edge of front
and back sections 1/2”
(1.3cm) from cut edge in
direction of arrows.
STAY-STITCHING
Back-stitching secures the
stitching.
REMINDER- Seams are stitched
in 5/8” (1.5cm) from cut edges,
unless instructed to use a
different amount.
Q: What is stay-stitching?
A: This is a line of stitching that
stays in permanently and helps
prevent stretching on curved
edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown
in the following illustrations.
Using an iron, press the stitching to set the stitches. Then open
the seam allowances and press the seam open.
REMINDER- Check the temperature setting for the fabric you
have purchased.
English/Spanish 3
2194
3/4
Zipper applications appear complicated, but if you follow these simple steps,
you’ll wonder what’s the fuss!
11. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the front to back at shoulder seams.
15. Turn the facing to the INSIDE, turning under back edges along the zipper
Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. Stitch the shoulder seams.
With the RIGHT sides together, pin the front to back at side seams.
Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. For View B, match the
ends of ribbon. Stitch the side seams. Press the seams open same as
you did for the back seam.
tape and press. Pin back edges of facing in place and pin armhole edges
of facing and dress together. Machine-baste armhole edges together.
7. Lay the fabric ﬂat. Then fold the dress back along the seam with the
RIGHT back seam allowance extended.
Open the zipper and place it face down on the extended RIGHT back
seam allowance only, as shown. The top stop is 1” (2.5cm) below the
neck edge and zipper teeth are along the basted seam.
Slip-stitch the back edges to the zipper tape.
To Slip-stitch, thread a needle and knot one end. Fasten the thread in
the fold of the facing. Working from RIGHT to LEFT, pick up a thread of
the zipper tape just below the folded edge of facing. Insert the needle
into the fold of facing directly above the ﬁrst stitch and bring it out 1/8”
(3mm) away. Pick up another thread in zipper tape directly below the
point where the needle emerged and continue in this manner.
Attach the adjustable zipper foot to your machine. Refer to the sewing
machine’s manual how to use this attachment. Machine-baste from the
bottom to the upper edge of dress along the guide line on zipper tape.
22. Sew the hem in place by
sections. Fuse interfacing in place, following the manufacturer’s
directions.
Starting at the bottom, stitch as basted. Turn pull tab up so it is not in
your way.
With the RIGHT sides together, pin shoulder seams of facing sections.
Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. Stitch shoulder seams and
press seams open.
Edge ﬁnish lower unnotched edges of facing.
Q: Why do I need to edge ﬁnish the facing?
A: This is done so that the raw edges of facing do not ravel.
RIGHT
BACK
On the OUTSIDE, topstitch along the basting.
Remove the basting.
lower edge of dress.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on
raw edge. Pin hem in place.
12. Pin the fusible interfacing to the WRONG side of front and back facing
zipper. Hand-baste close to the fold.
press in place. Hand-baste close
to the turned edge of tape.
21. Press up hem allowance on
RIGHT
BACK
SEAM
ALLOWANCE
8. Close the zipper and turn it face up. Smooth the fabric away from the
20. Turn the tape to INSIDE and
To edge ﬁnish, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from lower unnotched edge of facing.
Turn under along stitching and stitch close to edge or zig-zag over the
raw edge, or do not turn under the edge and trim close to stitching with
pinking shears.
16. If you prefer, on the
OUTSIDE, top-stitch 1/4”
(6mm) from neck edge
between the zipper
stitchings, as shown.
stitching close to the upper
fold, as close as possible while
still sewing through all fabric
layers. Stitch all the way
around, until you get back to
where you started. Clip the
threads close to the garment
fabric.
It’s always easier to sew a
circle if you work with the
machine needle on the
INSIDE of the circle.
HOW TO STITCH THE LACE TRIM VIEW A TO THE DRESS
23. On the OUTSIDE, starting at center back seam, pin lace trim to dress,
TIPS FOR TOP-STITCHING- Use a slightly longer stitch.
Place a piece of white or colored tape on the throat plate 1/4” (6mm)
from the needle hole or along the marking on the throat place. Top-stitch,
having the edge of the garment along the inner edge of the tape.
LEFT
BACK
9. Spread dress back ﬂat, turning the zipper face down over the seam, as
shown. Pin in place. Hand-baste remaining half of zipper close to long
edge of tape to LEFT back seam allowance through all thicknesses from
the bottom stop to the upper edge. Hand-basting will not show in the
next illustration.
17. On the INSIDE, sew the hook
13. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the facing to neck edge. Match the
cut edges, notches, centers and shoulder seams as you pin. The facing
extends 5/8" (1.5cm) beyond LEFT back opening edge and 1/2" (1.3cm)
beyond RIGHT back opening edge. Stitch neck edge. Trim seam; clip
curves.
FT
LE
K
AC
B
K
1/8” (3mm) on the LEFT back
edge of facing above the top
end of zipper by making a few
tacking stitches through the
holes in facing only. Then
sew across the end, under
the curve of the hook.
Position the eye opposite the
hook. Make a few tacking
stitches through the holes in
facing only.
AC
B
HT
RIG
18. Open out one long edge of
single bias fold bias tape and
lightly press.
10. On the OUTSIDE, starting at the seam, take one or two stitches on
LEFT back at bottom of zipper and back-stitch one or two stitches
continuing to stitch 3/8” (1cm) from the seam across the bottom of
zipper; turn the dress back (pivot) with needle in fabric at that point and
stitch 3/8” (1cm) from basted seam. Clip thread ends. Remove all
basting.
14. To understitch the facing, press the facing away from the garment. Press
the seam toward the facing. With the facing side up, stitch close to the
seam through the facing and seam allowances.
Understitching prevents the facing from rolling to the OUTSIDE of the
garment.
K
AC
TB
H
RIG
K
AC
B
FT
placing lower edge of trim along placement line for trim, placing end
slightly beyond seam. Continue pinning the trim in place until you get to
the starting point. Turn under 1/2” (1.3cm) on remaining end at seam,
covering the raw end of lace underneath. Stitch close to both long edges
of trim.
LE
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
19. Turn under 1/2” (1.3cm) on end of
tape. On the OUTSIDE, with the
RIGHT sides together, pin this
turned end to armhole edge of
dress at side seam. Notice there
is a crease when you open out
the long turned edge of tape.
Place this crease 3/8” (1cm) from
the armhole edge and pin in
place until you get to the starting
point. Have the remaining end
extend 1/2” (1.3cm) over the side
seam.
Cut the tape at this end. Stitch
the armhole seam, stitching 3/8”
(1cm) away from the cut edge.
Trim seam and clip curves.
NOW YOU FINISHED YOUR DRESS. GO AHEAD AND WEAR YOUR
DRESS, KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF!
HOW TO MAKE THE BOW FOR VIEW B
24. Fold bow in half, lengthwise, with
the RIGHT sides together.
Match the cut edges and notches
as you pin. Stitch notched edge in
3/8" (1cm) seam.
25. Turn the bow RIGHT side out,
bringing seam to center on
UNDERSIDE; press.
Bring ends to center on
UNDERSIDE, overlapping them
3/8" (1cm). Stitch along center
of bow.
English/Spanish 3
2194
4/4
2. On the OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of lace trim to the front edge of scarf
along the hem stitching, turning the ends to the WRONG side. Stitch
close to the straight edge of lace.
HOW TO MAKE THE HEADBAND VIEW D
5. Slip-stitch opening edges together keeping opening ﬂat. For slipstitching, see Dress Views A, B, step 15.
1. Fold headband in half, lengthwise, with the RIGHT sides together. Match
the cut edges and large dots as you pin. Stitch between the large dots in
a 3/8” (1cm) seam, as shown.
26. Fold knot in half, lengthwise, with
the RIGHT sides together.
Match the cut edges and notches
as you pin. Stitch notched end in
3/8" (1cm) seam.
27. Turn the knot RIGHT side out,
2. Attach a safety pin to one end of band. Insert pin through the RIGHT
bringing seam to center on
UNDERSIDE; press.
side of tube, turning the band RIGHT side out. Remove pin.
6. Now, bring the fullness of headband over the elastic so that all the
fullness is between the broken lines in the back and the headband is ﬂat
and smooth beyond the broken lines which is the side and front of band,
as shown. Pin along the broken lines. Stitch along the broken lines.
28. Crush bow at center and place
knot around center of bow, turning
under and lapping one end on
UNDERSIDE. Slip-stitch ends
securely catching in
UNDERSIDE of bow.
3. On the OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of lace trim to one slanted edge of
scarf, turning one end to WRONG side. Continue to pin lace to other
slanted edge of scarf, folding out fullness at the point and turning
remaining end of trim to the WRONG side, as shown. Stitch along the
straight edge of lace.
29. On the OUTSIDE, hand-sew the
3. Bring the seam to the center on UNDERSIDE. Open out ends and with
UNDERSIDE of bow to ribbon
on dress at the center, as
shown.
the RIGHT sides together. Stitch ends in 3/8” (1cm) seam.
7. Fold tie end in half, lengthwise, with the RIGHT sides together. Match
the cut edges as you pin. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving ends open.
NOW YOU FINISHED YOUR
DRESS. GO AHEAD AND
WEAR YOUR DRESS,
KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT
YOURSELF!
4. For ribbon ties, fold ribbon in half and place a pin at the fold. This is the
HOW TO MAKE THE SCARF VIEW C
center of ribbon.
4. Press under 3/8” (1cm) on opening edges.
8. Press seam open and bring the seam to the center. Stitch end
without the small dots in 3/8” (1cm) seam. Trim corner.
Cut a piece of elastic 22” (56cm) long.
Attach a safety pin to each end of elastic.
Insert one end of elastic through opening and out through other opening.
Overlap ends about 1/2” (1.3cm) and hold with a safety pin. Try on
headband and see if it ﬁts comfortably around the head. If you need to
adjust, either lap the ends less or more. Stitch ends of elastic together
securely with several rows stitching.
NOTE: Lace trim is optional.
1. Press under the hem allowance straight edge (front edge) of scarf,
forming a crease. Open out hem. To form narrow hem, bring raw edge to
crease. Press. Press up the edge again along the crease. Stitch close to
the inner pressed edge.
Make the hem on the slanted edges of scarf in same manner one at a
time.
9. Turn tie ends RIGHT side out; press.
On the OUTSIDE and with the RIGHT sides together (seamed side of tie
end is facing you), pin tie ends to the headband, placing 3/8” (1cm)
seamline along the broken line, matching small dots. Stitch 3/8” (1cm)
from raw edge of tie end through all the thicknesses. Trim raw edge
close to the stitching.
Notice you have a “tail” poking out on the straight hemmed edge.
Carefully trim away this “tail” so it is even with the hemmed edge.
FRONT
EDGE
5. On the WRONG side, pin ribbon to front edge of scarf, having one long
edge even with hemmed edge and placing center at center of scarf.
Stitch close outer edge of ribbon; back-stitch at the ends.
Press under 1/4” (6mm) on tie ends. Press under another
1/4” (6mm). Stitch close to inner pressed end.
NOW YOU FINISHED THE SCARF. GO AHEAD AND WEAR THE
SCARF ALONG WITH THE DRESS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT
YOURSELF!
10. Turn the tie end over the raw end. Then stitch the tie end close the seam.
Wear headband as shown of front of envelope.
NOW YOU FINISHED THE HEADBAND. GO AHEAD AND WEAR THE
HEADBAND ALONG WITH THE DRESS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE
IT YOURSELF!
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.