English/Spanish 3 2194 ® 1/4 ABOUT THIS PATTERN HOW TO FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE This pattern is multi-sized for the dress, which means that all of the available sizes for either the Child’s sizes or the Girls’ sizes are in one pattern. Since there are four or five different sizes included, there are four or five cutting lines, one for each size. Look closely and you’ll see that each cutting line is labelled for the size you are going to use. Finished Projects The scarf and headband are one size. This pattern is based on the chest body measurement; each numbered size (3,4,5,6,7,8,10,12,14) is designed to fit a certain chest measurement. Follow these simple steps to pick the pattern size you’ll need to make: • Have a parent or friend take a tape measure and measure your chest at the biggest point. This is your Chest measurement. TIP: Once you pick the size you’re going to make, take a felt-tip marker in a bright color and trace along the cutting line for that size – it’ll be easier to follow along and you’ll be 100% sure you cut the line you meant to! No need to highlight the cutting lines on the one size projects. Lines with arrows are grain lines which are printed on patterns as a straight or curved line to show where on the fabric each piece should be placed. Most of the time the arrow should line up with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. A B D C C D C LENGTHWISE GRAIN SELVAGE C 1 D B A 8 HEADBAND FRONT 9 pieces given 7 3 2 1 4 6 • Look for your Chest measurement on the back of the envelope. Now follow column on the back of the envelope to find the numbered size that goes with your chest measurement. This is the size you’ll cut and sew. The finished dress will be larger than your chest measurement. This is extra room built in for wearing comfort and for the design shape. When you first open up the pattern tissue, you’ll see that it comes in one big piece of paper, with the pattern shape printed in the middle. Cutting away the extra tissue will make the pattern piece much easier to work with. Cut just outside the biggest cutting line, and then throw out the extra; you won’t need it anymore. Next you’ll have to smooth out your pattern so that it’s nice and flat. double lengthening and shortening lines and place a piece of paper underneath. Spread the pattern pieces apart the amount you need to make longer, not more than 1” (2.5cm) and pin or tape in place, keeping the grain line arrows lined up straight. Redraw the cutting line at the sides and grain lines. For View A, redraw the vertical placement line. FRONT FRONT LENGTHEN HOW TO PREP THE FABRIC Treat your fabric the same way you would treat your finished dress – wash and dry it before you cut anything out. Q: Why do I need to smooth out the pattern, and how do I do it? Q: How do I know how to find lengthwise grain on my fabric? 9 5 FRONT To Lengthen- Cut the pattern apart between the HOW TO PREP THE PATTERN D FRONT SHORTEN SELVAGE CROSSWISE GRAIN A To Shorten- Measure the amount you need to shorten, not more than 1” (2.5cm), above the lower printed lengthening and shortening line and draw a parallel line. Fold your pattern on the lower printed line, bring it up to the drawn line and pin or tape in place. Redraw the cutting line at the sides, if necessary. 8 1-FRONT -A,B 5-BOW -B 2-BACK -A,B 6-KNOT -B 3-FRONT FACING -A,B 7-SCARF -C 4-BACK FACING -A,B 8-HEADBAND -D 9-TIE END -D SUPER EASY DRESSES, SCARF AND HEADBAND-LEARN TO SEW THEM YOURSELF What You’ll Need: • Fabric • Tape Measure • Sewing Machine • Straight Pins • Thread • Iron • Ironing Board • Fabric Scissors • Ruler • Safety Pin • Hand Sewing Needle • Felt Tip Marker or Highlighter • Washable Fabric Marking Pen or Pencil or Chalk • Seam Ripper A: Look at your piece of fabric – there are two edges that look finished and don’t come apart. These edges are called the selvages, which are formed during fabric weaving. Lengthwise grain runs in line with the selvages. Crosswise grain runs perpendicular or vertical to the selvage. Q: What are these other markings on the pattern? A: On the pattern pieces like this one, you’ll find directions in words and symbols such as lines, notches and dots. Look at your pattern and check off each of these items as you find them: Notches are the tiny triangles that are printed in certain spots on the pattern cutting lines. Their job is to help you line up one piece with another when you’re putting your dress together. If the notches don’t line up exactly, the pieces aren’t being put together properly. LEARN TO SEW TIP: Each size gets its own set of notches – just like you marked your cutting line with a felt-tip marker, trace along your notches the same way. This will make sure that you not only get the right notches for your size, but that you don’t miss any – you’ll need them all to get it right! Center line is printed on some pattern pieces as a broken and dotted line. It can be the center front or center back and it is used for matching pieces together. Dots are either small or large circular markings which are used for matching pieces together. Solid lines show where to fold the fabric or position trim. Broken lines are on the pattern piece to show you where to stitch. Chest and Waistline- are short solid lines printed on the pattern pieces. Lengthening and Shortening line- is a horizontal double line which allows you to make the dress longer or shorter, depending on your height and personal choice. Seam Allowances- are included in each pattern piece, but are not marked as actual lines. Stitch the seams 5/8” (1.5cm) from the cut edges, unless instructed to use a different amount. Besides understanding the markings, there is also written information you need to know when sewing your project, such as hem allowance or name of piece. Always keep the pattern and the pieces of fabric that you have cut out together, so when you are sewing your project you can refer to the pattern for this information. © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. A: If the pattern is wrinkled, the shape of the piece gets distorted, and then won’t be the exact shape you need to make perfect dress. Get it nice and smooth by taking a warm, dry iron and ironing the tissue – make sure that you have supervision before using an iron! LEARN TO SEW TIP: Make sure that there is no water in the tank of the iron, and that the dial on the iron isn’t set to give off steam – pattern tissue doesn’t hold up well when wet! HOW TO SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN THE PATTERN Everyone is built differently. That’s why when you buy your clothes, things rarely fit exactly. Sewing your own clothes means you can custom-make the pattern length perfect for you. Here’s how: Q: What’s the point of pre-washing the fabric? A: Many fabrics, especially cottons, tend to shrink after they’re washed and dried by machine. If you make your dress and then put it through the laundry, you could wind up with shrunken dress that doesn’t fit. Pre-washing the fabric at the beginning avoids any unpleasant surprises later! After the fabric is washed and dried, iron out the wrinkles with a hot iron so that it’s as smooth and flat as your pattern piece. Again, make sure you have supervision, especially since you’ll need a hotter iron for fabric than for the tissue paper. Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, matching up the selvages and the cut edges and the right sides of the fabric facing each other. A WORD ABOUT INTERFACING.... Q: What is interfacing and how do I know where I need it? Find the View and the pattern size you have chosen and follow that column down to the finished garment measurement for the length. A: Interfacing is an extra layer of fabric that provides shape and support in detailed areas of the garment. Interfacing is usually used in necklines, etc. Your pattern pieces will tell you which pieces require interfacing and how many to cut. Have someone help you to take this measurement. Place a tape measure at the big bone on the base of the back neck. Check to see where the finished length measurement ends on yourself. You can try on one of your own dresses to compare lengths. Also, the picture on the pattern envelope will give you a good idea of the right length. The two basic types of interfacing are sew-in and fusible. The back of the pattern envelope will tell you which type to buy. Preshrink fusible interfacing before cutting out pattern pieces. Place interfacing in hot water for 20 minutes (or until water is cooled). Spread interfacing flat to dry. HOW TO CUT OUT YOUR DRESS, SCARF AND HEADBAND Pattern Guide If you are pleased with the length, then you do not have to make any changes to the pattern. If you want the finished length shorter or longer, then you need to change the pattern pieces 1 and 2 as follows: Remember those lengthening and shortening lines mentioned earlier? PATTERN PRINTED SIDE UP PATTERN PRINTED SIDE DOWN • The following indicates the various ways how the fabric is folded in the Cutting Layouts: English/Spanish 3 2194 2/4 ★ 58" 60" (150CM) Lengthwise Fold- Fold the fabric with RIGHT sides together and selvages are even. FOLD 5 6 WITH NAP 3 Q: Why do I have to transfer markings? 4 2 SELS. B- CUT ONE OF PIECE 6 1 SELVAGES USE PIECES 3 4 20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE ALL SIZES Single Thickness- Fabric is placed RIGHT side up. 4 3 FOLD ★Special Cutting Note USE PIECE 7 44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM) WITH NAP A. If layout shows a piece extending past the fold, cut out all pieces except the piece that extends. ALL SIZES SINGLE THICKNESS SELVAGE SCARF Before marking your fabric, lace trim is optional for Dress View A. If you purchased lace trim for View A, then transfer placement lines. For View B, transfer the center front line, horizontal placement line and the vertical placement line as far as the horizontal line. Do not transfer the entire vertical line. FOLD INTERFACING NOTE: Lace trim is optional. A: Markings such as small dots are matching or placement points and are transferred from the pattern tissue to wrong side of fabric. ALL SIZES Two Lengthwise Folds- Fold the fabric with RIGHT sides together so the selvages meet at or near the center. HOW TO STITCH THE LACE TRIM VIEW A TO THE DRESS HOW TO TRANSFER MARKINGS Pin Marking Method- Stick straight pins through the pattern tissue and single or double layers of fabric at the ends of solid lines (also known as placement lines), or at the small dots. When you turn the fabric over to the other side, you will see the pins poking out through the WRONG side of the fabric. For dots, make a small circle on WRONG side of fabric at pin point. For solid lines or broken lines, use a ruler and a washable fabric pen or pencil or chalk and draw straight lines connecting the pin points on the WRONG side of fabric. Then remove pins that are holding the pattern and fabric together lifting the pattern piece carefully at the pin heads. Mark solid lines or broken lines on the remaining WRONG side of fabric at the pin heads if the fabric is double layered; then remove the pins. 7 SELVAGE D HEADBAND 44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES • Place the pattern pieces on the fabric as follows: For Fold Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the fold grain line along the fold as indicated in the Cutting Layouts. For Straight Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the straight grain line parallel to the selvage as indicated in the Cutting Layouts. Measure the distance from both ends of the straight grain line arrow on the pattern to the selvages. When it’s lined up exactly, pin the pattern at the grain line arrows. You’ll have to turn some of the pattern pieces over and place on fabric with printed side down so that top edge of all pieces lay in one direction. This is necessary if fabric has a design going in one direction. Your final Cutting Layout should look like this one printed below: NOTE: Make sure you have determined the finished length of the dress in HOW TO SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN THE PATTERN and make any changes to the pattern pieces, if necessary before cutting out the fabric. A,B DRESS 6 A- USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 SELVAGES B- USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZES 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 3 1 B- CUT ONE OF PIECES 5 6 FOLD 6 SELVAGES 4 2 5 B- CUT ONE OF PIECES 5 6 1 3 FOLD 6 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZE 14 B- CUT ONE OF PIECES 5 6 SELVAGES 4 2 3 1 5 FOLD SELS. 8 SEL. 9 FOLD Hand-Basting Method- NOW you will have to transfer solid or broken lines and small dots to the RIGHT side of the fabric by hand-basting. Basting may take a little extra time in the beginning, but it’s worth the effort in the end. Hand-baste along the marking lines on the WRONG side of fabric. Basting stitches are formed by simply pulling the needle and thread in and out of the fabric in approximately 1/2” (1.3cm) long stitches. For headband, simply make an “X” at the small dot only. Remove the hand-basting when the project is completed with a seam ripper. The point on the seam ripper is very sharp so be very careful using this tool. Using straight pins, pin the pattern to the fabric- stick the pin all the way through all thicknesses, pattern tissue and two fabric layers. Bring the pin point back up through all layers; this will keep the layers together. Start pinning at the middle of each side and work your way to the corners, smoothing the tissue as you go to avoid bubbles and wrinkles. Cut out the pattern shapes, cutting along the cutting line. Use sharp scissors and position them so that the pattern shape is on the side that you’re cutting, and the fabric you’re cutting away is on the other side of the scissors. LEARN TO SEW TIP: Make sure that you keep your fabric as flat as possible while cutting out the pattern shape. It may be tempting to pick it up, but don’t! The weight of the fabric drags it down, and the cutting line will shift out of shape. You’ll wind up cutting along a line that isn’t accurate and a shape that isn’t exact, which will make it really hard to get a good finished result. Snip edge of fabric at the center lines or the center fold. Snip edge of fabric at the highlighted notches. This is a quick way to indicate the markings on the pattern pieces, but snipping the fabric is not done for all markings. © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. trim to each side of dress front, centering the trim along the vertical placement line for trim. Upper end of trims extend above the neck edge. Cut away this excess trim even with the neck edge. Stitch close to both long edges of trim. The remaining lace trim will be applied later. HOW TO STITCH THE RIBBON VIEW B TO THE DRESS 3. On the OUTSIDE, pin three rows of ribbon to dress front, centering one ribbon along the center front line and placing inner edge of remaining rows along vertical placement line for trim. The lower end of ribbons end at the horizontal placement line for trim B and upper ends extend above the neck edge. Cut away this excess trim even with the neck edge. Stitch close to both long edges of ribbon. 4. Pin lower edge of ribbon to front along the horizontal placement line for trim. Stitch close to both long edges of ribbon. 5. Pin lower edge of ribbon to back along the horizontal placement line for trim. Stitch close to both long edges of ribbon. Q: How should I place each pin, and how far apart should they be? A: Place each pin just inside the cutting line you’ll be using, with each pin in line with the printed line – this will keep them out of the way during cutting. Pins are best placed about 3”(7.5cm) to 4” (10cm) apart, with pins closer together where you have curves or corners. 2 5 SINGLE THICKNESS USE PIECES 8 9 B. Open out fabric to single thickness. Cut out extending piece on RIGHT side of fabric in position shown. 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP SIZE 12 SEL. 2. On the OUTSIDE, pin lace VIEW A VIEW B CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS A AND B 6. With the RIGHT sides together, pin Fabric Guide RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC WRONG SIDE OF FABRIC INTERFACING center back seam of back sections together. Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. Stitch from the lower edge to the notch; backstitch at the notch to reinforce stitching. Then machine-baste above the notch. To back-stitch, touch the reverse button on the machine. The basted area is for the zipper. HOW TO SEW THE DRESS VIEWS A AND B 1. Stay-stitch neck edge of front and back sections 1/2” (1.3cm) from cut edge in direction of arrows. STAY-STITCHING Back-stitching secures the stitching. REMINDER- Seams are stitched in 5/8” (1.5cm) from cut edges, unless instructed to use a different amount. Q: What is stay-stitching? A: This is a line of stitching that stays in permanently and helps prevent stretching on curved edges. Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations. Using an iron, press the stitching to set the stitches. Then open the seam allowances and press the seam open. REMINDER- Check the temperature setting for the fabric you have purchased. English/Spanish 3 2194 3/4 Zipper applications appear complicated, but if you follow these simple steps, you’ll wonder what’s the fuss! 11. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the front to back at shoulder seams. 15. Turn the facing to the INSIDE, turning under back edges along the zipper Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. Stitch the shoulder seams. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the front to back at side seams. Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. For View B, match the ends of ribbon. Stitch the side seams. Press the seams open same as you did for the back seam. tape and press. Pin back edges of facing in place and pin armhole edges of facing and dress together. Machine-baste armhole edges together. 7. Lay the fabric flat. Then fold the dress back along the seam with the RIGHT back seam allowance extended. Open the zipper and place it face down on the extended RIGHT back seam allowance only, as shown. The top stop is 1” (2.5cm) below the neck edge and zipper teeth are along the basted seam. Slip-stitch the back edges to the zipper tape. To Slip-stitch, thread a needle and knot one end. Fasten the thread in the fold of the facing. Working from RIGHT to LEFT, pick up a thread of the zipper tape just below the folded edge of facing. Insert the needle into the fold of facing directly above the first stitch and bring it out 1/8” (3mm) away. Pick up another thread in zipper tape directly below the point where the needle emerged and continue in this manner. Attach the adjustable zipper foot to your machine. Refer to the sewing machine’s manual how to use this attachment. Machine-baste from the bottom to the upper edge of dress along the guide line on zipper tape. 22. Sew the hem in place by sections. Fuse interfacing in place, following the manufacturer’s directions. Starting at the bottom, stitch as basted. Turn pull tab up so it is not in your way. With the RIGHT sides together, pin shoulder seams of facing sections. Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. Stitch shoulder seams and press seams open. Edge finish lower unnotched edges of facing. Q: Why do I need to edge finish the facing? A: This is done so that the raw edges of facing do not ravel. RIGHT BACK On the OUTSIDE, topstitch along the basting. Remove the basting. lower edge of dress. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Pin hem in place. 12. Pin the fusible interfacing to the WRONG side of front and back facing zipper. Hand-baste close to the fold. press in place. Hand-baste close to the turned edge of tape. 21. Press up hem allowance on RIGHT BACK SEAM ALLOWANCE 8. Close the zipper and turn it face up. Smooth the fabric away from the 20. Turn the tape to INSIDE and To edge finish, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from lower unnotched edge of facing. Turn under along stitching and stitch close to edge or zig-zag over the raw edge, or do not turn under the edge and trim close to stitching with pinking shears. 16. If you prefer, on the OUTSIDE, top-stitch 1/4” (6mm) from neck edge between the zipper stitchings, as shown. stitching close to the upper fold, as close as possible while still sewing through all fabric layers. Stitch all the way around, until you get back to where you started. Clip the threads close to the garment fabric. It’s always easier to sew a circle if you work with the machine needle on the INSIDE of the circle. HOW TO STITCH THE LACE TRIM VIEW A TO THE DRESS 23. On the OUTSIDE, starting at center back seam, pin lace trim to dress, TIPS FOR TOP-STITCHING- Use a slightly longer stitch. Place a piece of white or colored tape on the throat plate 1/4” (6mm) from the needle hole or along the marking on the throat place. Top-stitch, having the edge of the garment along the inner edge of the tape. LEFT BACK 9. Spread dress back flat, turning the zipper face down over the seam, as shown. Pin in place. Hand-baste remaining half of zipper close to long edge of tape to LEFT back seam allowance through all thicknesses from the bottom stop to the upper edge. Hand-basting will not show in the next illustration. 17. On the INSIDE, sew the hook 13. With the RIGHT sides together, pin the facing to neck edge. Match the cut edges, notches, centers and shoulder seams as you pin. The facing extends 5/8" (1.5cm) beyond LEFT back opening edge and 1/2" (1.3cm) beyond RIGHT back opening edge. Stitch neck edge. Trim seam; clip curves. FT LE K AC B K 1/8” (3mm) on the LEFT back edge of facing above the top end of zipper by making a few tacking stitches through the holes in facing only. Then sew across the end, under the curve of the hook. Position the eye opposite the hook. Make a few tacking stitches through the holes in facing only. AC B HT RIG 18. Open out one long edge of single bias fold bias tape and lightly press. 10. On the OUTSIDE, starting at the seam, take one or two stitches on LEFT back at bottom of zipper and back-stitch one or two stitches continuing to stitch 3/8” (1cm) from the seam across the bottom of zipper; turn the dress back (pivot) with needle in fabric at that point and stitch 3/8” (1cm) from basted seam. Clip thread ends. Remove all basting. 14. To understitch the facing, press the facing away from the garment. Press the seam toward the facing. With the facing side up, stitch close to the seam through the facing and seam allowances. Understitching prevents the facing from rolling to the OUTSIDE of the garment. K AC TB H RIG K AC B FT placing lower edge of trim along placement line for trim, placing end slightly beyond seam. Continue pinning the trim in place until you get to the starting point. Turn under 1/2” (1.3cm) on remaining end at seam, covering the raw end of lace underneath. Stitch close to both long edges of trim. LE © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. 19. Turn under 1/2” (1.3cm) on end of tape. On the OUTSIDE, with the RIGHT sides together, pin this turned end to armhole edge of dress at side seam. Notice there is a crease when you open out the long turned edge of tape. Place this crease 3/8” (1cm) from the armhole edge and pin in place until you get to the starting point. Have the remaining end extend 1/2” (1.3cm) over the side seam. Cut the tape at this end. Stitch the armhole seam, stitching 3/8” (1cm) away from the cut edge. Trim seam and clip curves. NOW YOU FINISHED YOUR DRESS. GO AHEAD AND WEAR YOUR DRESS, KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF! HOW TO MAKE THE BOW FOR VIEW B 24. Fold bow in half, lengthwise, with the RIGHT sides together. Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. Stitch notched edge in 3/8" (1cm) seam. 25. Turn the bow RIGHT side out, bringing seam to center on UNDERSIDE; press. Bring ends to center on UNDERSIDE, overlapping them 3/8" (1cm). Stitch along center of bow. English/Spanish 3 2194 4/4 2. On the OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of lace trim to the front edge of scarf along the hem stitching, turning the ends to the WRONG side. Stitch close to the straight edge of lace. HOW TO MAKE THE HEADBAND VIEW D 5. Slip-stitch opening edges together keeping opening flat. For slipstitching, see Dress Views A, B, step 15. 1. Fold headband in half, lengthwise, with the RIGHT sides together. Match the cut edges and large dots as you pin. Stitch between the large dots in a 3/8” (1cm) seam, as shown. 26. Fold knot in half, lengthwise, with the RIGHT sides together. Match the cut edges and notches as you pin. Stitch notched end in 3/8" (1cm) seam. 27. Turn the knot RIGHT side out, 2. Attach a safety pin to one end of band. Insert pin through the RIGHT bringing seam to center on UNDERSIDE; press. side of tube, turning the band RIGHT side out. Remove pin. 6. Now, bring the fullness of headband over the elastic so that all the fullness is between the broken lines in the back and the headband is flat and smooth beyond the broken lines which is the side and front of band, as shown. Pin along the broken lines. Stitch along the broken lines. 28. Crush bow at center and place knot around center of bow, turning under and lapping one end on UNDERSIDE. Slip-stitch ends securely catching in UNDERSIDE of bow. 3. On the OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of lace trim to one slanted edge of scarf, turning one end to WRONG side. Continue to pin lace to other slanted edge of scarf, folding out fullness at the point and turning remaining end of trim to the WRONG side, as shown. Stitch along the straight edge of lace. 29. On the OUTSIDE, hand-sew the 3. Bring the seam to the center on UNDERSIDE. Open out ends and with UNDERSIDE of bow to ribbon on dress at the center, as shown. the RIGHT sides together. Stitch ends in 3/8” (1cm) seam. 7. Fold tie end in half, lengthwise, with the RIGHT sides together. Match the cut edges as you pin. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving ends open. NOW YOU FINISHED YOUR DRESS. GO AHEAD AND WEAR YOUR DRESS, KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF! 4. For ribbon ties, fold ribbon in half and place a pin at the fold. This is the HOW TO MAKE THE SCARF VIEW C center of ribbon. 4. Press under 3/8” (1cm) on opening edges. 8. Press seam open and bring the seam to the center. Stitch end without the small dots in 3/8” (1cm) seam. Trim corner. Cut a piece of elastic 22” (56cm) long. Attach a safety pin to each end of elastic. Insert one end of elastic through opening and out through other opening. Overlap ends about 1/2” (1.3cm) and hold with a safety pin. Try on headband and see if it fits comfortably around the head. If you need to adjust, either lap the ends less or more. Stitch ends of elastic together securely with several rows stitching. NOTE: Lace trim is optional. 1. Press under the hem allowance straight edge (front edge) of scarf, forming a crease. Open out hem. To form narrow hem, bring raw edge to crease. Press. Press up the edge again along the crease. Stitch close to the inner pressed edge. Make the hem on the slanted edges of scarf in same manner one at a time. 9. Turn tie ends RIGHT side out; press. On the OUTSIDE and with the RIGHT sides together (seamed side of tie end is facing you), pin tie ends to the headband, placing 3/8” (1cm) seamline along the broken line, matching small dots. Stitch 3/8” (1cm) from raw edge of tie end through all the thicknesses. Trim raw edge close to the stitching. Notice you have a “tail” poking out on the straight hemmed edge. Carefully trim away this “tail” so it is even with the hemmed edge. FRONT EDGE 5. On the WRONG side, pin ribbon to front edge of scarf, having one long edge even with hemmed edge and placing center at center of scarf. Stitch close outer edge of ribbon; back-stitch at the ends. Press under 1/4” (6mm) on tie ends. Press under another 1/4” (6mm). Stitch close to inner pressed end. NOW YOU FINISHED THE SCARF. GO AHEAD AND WEAR THE SCARF ALONG WITH THE DRESS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF! 10. Turn the tie end over the raw end. Then stitch the tie end close the seam. Wear headband as shown of front of envelope. NOW YOU FINISHED THE HEADBAND. GO AHEAD AND WEAR THE HEADBAND ALONG WITH THE DRESS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF! © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
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