English/Spanish 3 2061 ® 1/4 GETTING TO KNOW ABOUT THE FABRICS FOR THIS PATTERN For this design, notice that Pants A and B are featured in knit fabrics only and Pants C and D are featured in woven fabrics. First, lets look at woven fabrics. You will see that there are two edges that look finished and don’t unravel or come apart; each of these edges are called the selvage, which is formed during the fabric weaving process. Woven fabrics have two grains: the lengthwise grain, which runs parallel to the selvage, and the crosswise grain, which runs perpendicular to the selvage. Finished Garment Dots are either small or large circular markings printed on the pattern pieces which are also used for matching pieces together and other construction details. Hip- is printed on the pattern pieces. Solid Lines- show where to position the flap, placement lines for trim, make buttonholes or where to fold the fabric. Broken Lines- are indicated on the pattern as pleats or placement lines for trim. SELVAGE B A C D LENGTHWISE GRAIN CROSSWISE GRAIN PANTS FRONT A, B CASING C, D SELVAGE B C A D 10 pieces given 3 2 1 6 4 7 5 Now, take a look at a knit fabric which is made from interlocking looped stitches. Ribs are the lengthwise grain and courses are the crosswise grain. The stretch is usually in the course direction. However, for two-way stretch fabric, the stretch is in both directions. Patterns designed for knits only include less wearing ease or no ease at all because the fabric itself stretches to provide the necessary fit, comfort and mobility. To learn more about “ease”, see FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE. Therefore, it is important to choose the right amount of stretch for the design. On the back of this envelope, you will find the Pick-AKnit®Rule which shows you the amount of stretch you will need for the design. Fold the knit fabric crosswise and hold it against the left end of the rule. Pull on the knit to see if the indicated amount of fabric will easily stretch to the end of the rule. Now let go of the fabric and it should relax to its original size and shape. The amount of stretch for Pants A and B is 1” (2.5cm). Instructions for sewing knit fabrics are given in the section ALL ABOUT KNITS. Nap for both wovens and knits is used to indicate fabrics with a one-way direction because of print designs, light and dark shading or surface texture (corduroy, satin or stretch velvet). Have you noticed fabrics that feel smooth when you run your hand across them one way and feel rough in reverse? That’s the nap. ABOUT THIS PATTERN 9 8 10 1-PANTS FRONT -A,B 6-YOKE AND POCKET -C,D 2-PANTS BACK -A,B 7-PANTS BACK -C,D 3-CASING -A,B 8-PATCH POCKET -C 4-LEG BAND -B 9-FLAP -C 5-PANTS FRONT -C,D 10-CASING -C,D What You’ll Need: • • • • • • • • • • Tape Measure Sewing Machine Straight Pins Iron Fabric Scissors Ruler Hand Sewing Needle Felt Tip Marker or Highlighter Safety Pin Ball point or stretch needle in a medium-weight size for knit fabrics. This pattern is multi-sized, which means that all of the available sizes ranging from 6 to 18 are in one pattern. Since there are seven different sizes included, there are seven cutting lines, one for each size. Once you choose the size you want to sew, it’s a good idea to take a felt tip marker or highlighter and trace over the appropriate cutting line to make it even easier to keep track. See FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE for how-to’s on getting the right size pattern to fit you. Seam allowances are all included on each pattern piece, but are not marked as actual lines. The standard seam allowance is 5/8” (1.5cm) unless noted differently. Now take a look at the pattern. The following lists the construction markings that are printed on the pattern pieces. Grain line is the arrow printed on the pattern piece to show where on the fabric each piece should be placed. Straight grain line arrow indicates a pattern piece that is placed parallel to the selvage edge of your fabric. Notches are tiny triangular markings that are printed in strategic spots along the cutting line on pattern pieces that are used for matching pieces together. There are seven different notches, one for each size same as for the cutting lines and they can be single, double or triple. Center line is printed on some pattern pieces as a broken and dotted line. It can be the center front or center back and it is used for matching pieces together. Cutting Line for the View is indicated on the front and back pattern pieces. Crotch Line- indicates location of crotch. © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. CUTTING LINE FOR VIEW B PREP YOUR PATTERN When you first open up the pattern tissue, you’ll see that it comes in one big piece. Select the pattern pieces for the view you are making and cut around each piece just outside the cutting line, which is printed as a solid line on the outer edge. You may have to press the tissue using a dry iron to smooth out the wrinkles, but do it gently. PREP YOUR FABRIC Before cutting out the fabric, it’s best to pre-shrink washable fabric by washing and drying. Fabric needs to be smooth and flat before cutting, so take the time to press your fabric properly on the wrong side, using the appropriate temperature setting on your iron. For corduroy or stretch velvet, press on the WRONG side of fabric. A WORD ABOUT INTERFACING.... Interfacing is an extra layer of fabric that provides shape and support in detailed areas of the garment. The two basic types of interfacing are non-fusible and fusible. The back of evelope indicates which type to purchase. To preshrink fusible interfacing before cutting out pattern pieces, place interfacing in hot water for 20 minutes (or until water is cooled); spread interfacing flat to dry. CUTTING LINE FOR VIEW A LEARN TO SEW TIP- In addition to the markings, there is also pattern text you will need to know when sewing your project, such as the name of piece or amount of hem allowance. Always keep the tissue pattern pieces and project together so you can refer to this information. It’s also a good idea to read through each section before you proceed with your project. FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE The pants are worn 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below the waist. This pattern is based on the waist and hip body measurements; each numbered size (6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18) is designed to fit a certain waist and hip measurement. To locate the natural waistline, tie a string snugly around the waist. If the waist is hard to find, then bend sideways. The crease that forms is at the natural waistline. Using a tape measure, measure around the waist, comfortably. Don’t pull too tightly otherwise you will not get an accurate measurement. Measure around the hip at the widest point. Find the pattern size with the waist and hip measurements that most closely matches your own measurement. Once you have found the size, follow that column down to the Garment Measurement. The hip measurement is the actual finished pants, which has extra room built in to sit, move around and generally wear them. There is also design ease which is the extra fullness over and above wearing ease that determines the garment’s silhouette. Now, if you are uncertain what size to choose because you are between sizes, the advice is to choose the smaller size if you are small boned or choose the larger size if you are large boned. CUTTING LAYOUTS FOR THE PANTS Pattern Guide PATTERN PRINTED PATTERN PRINTED SIDE UP SIDE DOWN • The following indicates the various ways how the fabric is folded in the Cutting Layouts: Lengthwise Fold- Fold the fabric with RIGHT sides together and selvages are even. • Place the pattern pieces on the fabric as follows: For Straight Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the straight grain line parallel to the selvage. Measure the distance from both ends of the straight grain line arrow on the pattern to the selvages. When it’s lined up exactly, starting at the middle, pin pattern to fabric, placing pins parallel and inside the cutting lines and diagonally at corners, smoothing the pattern over the fabric. You’ll have to turn some of the pattern pieces over and place on fabric with printed side down so that top edge of all pieces lay in one direction. This is necessary if fabric has a design going in one direction. English/Spanish 3 2/4 A PANTS- SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM) BELOW WAIST USE PIECES 1 2 3 SELVAGES 58" 60" (150CM) Cut with your scissors positioned so that the pinned pattern is on the side that is holding the scissors, and excess fabric is on the other side. Cut along the outer solid line, all around the pattern piece. You can cut out shape of notches OR... Snip edge of fabric at the notches, fold lines and center lines. This is a quick way to indicate the markings on the pattern, but snipping the fabric is not done for all markings. 1 3 WITH NAP CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS ALL SIZES 2 FOLD B PANTS- SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM) BELOW WAIST USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 SELVAGES 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP 1 3 ALL SIZES 4 2 FOLD MARKING INSTRUCTIONS C PANTS- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM) BELOW WAIST Pin Marking Method- Used for transferring markings to WRONG side of fabric. Stick straight pins through the pattern tissue and both layers of fabric at the ends of buttonholes, placement lines for trim/flap, broken lines for pleats and at the small and large dots. When you turn the fabric over to the other side, you will see the pins poking out through the WRONG side of the fabric. For dots, make a small circle on WRONG side of fabric at pin point. For buttonholes, placement lines for trim/flap and broken lines for pleats, take a ruler and a washable fabric pen or pencil or chalk and draw straight lines connecting the pin points on the WRONG side of fabric. Then remove pins that are holding the pattern and fabric together lifting the pattern piece carefully over the pin heads at the markings. Mark the dots and lines on the remaining WRONG side of fabric at the pin heads; then remove the pins. For casing, you only need to transfer buttonholes to one piece only. USE PIECES 5 6 7 8 9 10 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES SELVAGES 10 6 5 7 8 FOLD 9 SELVAGES 8 58" 60" (150CM) 9 5 10 WITH NAP ALL SIZES 7 6 9 FOLD ALL ABOUT KNITS When stitching seams: • Use a ball point or stretch needle in a medium-weight size for your sewing machine. • When using a straight stitch, stretch the fabric slightly as you sew. • For zigzag stitches, use narrow, short to medium length zigzag stitches. • If you have a built in stretch stitch on your machine, refer to the sewing machine manual. • For knit fabrics that curl or unravel, stitch seam and stitch again 1/8” (3mm) away within the seam allowance, using a straight or zigzag stitch. Trim close to second row of stitching and press seam to one side. If you are up to the challenge, you might want to try using the overlock/serger machine which stitches, trims and finishes seams all in one operation. Before you jump into using this special machine, you will need to understand how to operate it. So read the machine manual and for a good source of information, refer to “Simplicity’s® Simply the Best Sewing Book.” Best suggestion is to practice on scraps of fabric before you attempt to try it on your project. If you decide to use the overlock/serge machine, there are two ways you can stitch the seam. 1. Serge the seam and press seam to side. 2. Stitch the seam using a conventional machine, then edge finish the seam allowances using the overlock/ serger. Press seam open. Most of all, have fun using this machine. Once you get the hang of it, you will want to use it not just for knit fabrics, but for any project as well. 2. With the RIGHT sides together, pin pants front to pants back at inner leg seams, matching the cut edges, notches and small dots. Stitch the seam, stretching the back to fit between notch and small dot. Press the stitching to set the stitches. Then open the seam allowances and press the seam open. INNER LEG SEAM 2061 3. With the RIGHTsides together, pin the center seam, matching the cut edges, inner leg seams and notches. Stitch. To reinforce seam, stitch again over first stitching. Press seam open same as before. Fabric Guide RIGHT SIDE OF FABRIC WRONG SIDE INTERFACING OF FABRIC SEWING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PANTS VIEWS A AND B CENTER BACK CENTER FRONT NOTE: Pants are worn 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below the waist. INTERFACING SELS. USE PIECE 9 1. To make pleats in pants front, on INSIDE, bring broken lines together. Stitch along broken lines. 9 20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE ALL SIZES FOLD Press pleat flat, bringing stitching to center. Baste across upper raw edge. D PANTS- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM) BELOW WAIST 4. With the RIGHT sides together, stitch front to back at side seams, matching the cut edges and notches. Press seams open same as before. USE PIECES 5 6 7 10 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP ALL SIZES 5 6 7 FOLD SELVAGES 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP 5 10 ALL SIZES 7 6 Transfer Lines From Wrong Side to Right Side of FabricOnce you are done transferring markings, you can transfer the placement lines for trim/ flap and buttonholes from the WRONG side to the RIGHT side of the fabric by hand-basting. Basting may take a little extra time in the beginning, but it’s worth the effort in the end. Remove the pattern piece and separate the layers. Hand-baste along the marking lines on the WRONG side of fabric. Basting stitches are formed by simply pulling the needle and thread in and out of the fabric in approximately 1/2” (1.3cm) to 3/4” (2cm) long stitches. Remove the handbasting when completed. FOLD © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. SIDE SEAM 10 SIDE SEAM SELVAGES English/Spanish 3 3/4 9. Press seam toward garment, pressing casing out. 5. Cut two 1" (2.5cm) squares of fusible interfacing. Center and fuse interfacing to WRONG side of one casing section over each buttonhole area, following manufacturer’s directions. If you don’t have fusible interfacing, use 1” (2.5cm) square of fabric remnant. Apply in same manner as for intefacing (except for fusing) and baste close to raw edges of remnant. Remove basting after making buttonholes. On OUTSIDE, make buttonholes in casing at markings, following manufacturer’s manual. This is the front casing. 13. .Cut a piece of twill tape the measurement of your waist plus 45” (115cm) for drawstring. Attach a safety pin to one end of drawstring same as for elastic. Insert drawstring and safety pin through one buttonhole opening in casing through the casing and out through remaining buttonhole. Fasten into a bow when wearing. Knot ends of drawstring. LEARN TO SEW TIP- How about slipping a bead through ends of drawstring and then knot the ends! YOU ARE FINISHED! CONGRATULATIONS AND ENJOY WEARING YOUR PANTS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE THEM YOURSELF! Now that you have completed a Learn to Sew project, you are on your way to creating more sewing projects. 10. Cut a piece of elastic your waist measurement plus 3” (7.5cm). Pin a large safety pin to one end of the elastic. This will help you keep track of the elastic end and make it easier to thread it through the casing. Insert the safety pin through the opening in the casing and thread the elastic all the way through until it emerges from the other side of the opening. Overlap the elastic ends and hold them with a safety pin. Try on the pants and adjust the elastic to fit comfortably so that the top of the casing is 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below your natural waistline. If the elastic is too loose, overlap more; if too tight, overlap less. Leg Band for Pants View B Hem For Pants View A 6. With RIGHT sides together, pin the casing sections together at side edges, matching the cut edges, small dots and notches. Stitch the side seams of casing, leaving an opening between small dots, as shown. Back-stitch at small dots to reinforce seam. To back-stitch, touch the reverse button on the machine. Press the seams open same as before. 14. Try on the pants and see where you would like the finished hem. Mark this length by placing pins parallel to the floor at the front, back, inner leg seam and outside this spot for each leg. It may be difficult to do this on your own, so you may want to get someone to do this for you. Remove the pants. Put the pants leg on a flat surface and match up the markings so that the hem is straight and even. Fold this amount up to the INSIDE. Press the fold flat, re-pinning the hem in place perpendicular to the hem. Try on the pants one more time to make sure the legs are even. You may have to make some minor adjustments. Remove the pants. 11. Stitch the overlapped ends of the elastic together securely. 7. To keep elastic from getting stuck in the seam allowances as it’s inserted, use machine-basting or fusible web to anchor them to the casing. Be sure to remove basting after casing is finished. Fold casing in half, lengthwise, with WRONG sides together, matching the cut edges and notches. Baste raw edges together. The side with the opening is the UNDERSIDE of the casing. Basting will not show in the following illustrations. 16. Now you are ready for hemming the pants. Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and 1/4" (6mm) below first stitching. 17. With the RIGHT sides together, stitch ends of leg band together, matching the cut edges and single notches. Press the seam open same as before. 18. Fold the band in half, with WRONG sides together, matching the cut edges, seams and notches; press. On OUTSIDE, pin band to leg edge of pants, matching the cut edges, placing the seam at the inner leg seam and small dot at the side seam. Stitch, stretching the band to fit the leg edge. Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from first stitching within the seam allowance. Trim close to second stitching. If you prefer, zig-zag raw edges together. FINISH HEM LINE 8. With the UNDERSIDE of casing facing you, pin casing to the RIGHT side of the garment matching the cut edges, notches, centers and side seams. Stitch along seam line. Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from first stitching within seam allowance. Trim close to second stitching. If you prefer, zig-zag raw edges together. 19. Press seam toward garment, pressing band out. SIDE SEAM 12. Pull the casing until all of the elastic is INSIDE. With a needle and thread, hand-sew the casing opening on the INSIDE closed. Distribute the fullness over the elastic evenly, so there in no bunching or binding at the upper edge. 15. Measure the depth of hem 1-1/4” (3.2cm) from the folded edge to the raw edge, using a ruler. If the measurement is exactly 1-1/4” (3.2cm) from the fold to the raw edge all the way around, then you don’t need to mark. The hem allowance is even and ready for hemming. If the hem allowance is not even, mark the depth of hem 1-1/4” (3.2cm) from the folded edge to the raw edge using a fabric pen, pencil or chalk. Also, repin the pins and place them close to the folded edge. Carefully, trim away the excess (top layer) along this marking. Do Not trim through both layers! INNER LEG 2061 YOU ARE FINISHED! CONGRATULATIONS AND ENJOY WEARING YOUR PANTS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF! Now that you have completed a Learn to Sew project, you are on your way to creating more sewing projects. © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. English/Spanish 3 4/4 SEWING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PANTS VIEWS C AND D NOTE: Pants are worn 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below waist. 1. With the RIGHT sides together, pin yoke and pocket to pants front, matching the cut edges, notches and small dots. Stitch single notched edge. Trim seam; clip curves 10. On OUTSIDE, pin pocket to front and back, placing upper corners at large dots. Starting at the upper side edge of pocket, take two or three machine-stitches, then back-stitch two or three stitches by touching the reverse button on your machine. Continue stitching close to the side and lower edges, then back-stitch again on the other side of the pocket. 5. On the OUTSIDE, lap pants front over yoke and pocket section, matching the cut edges and small dots; pin. Baste raw edges together along the side and upper edges. 6. With the RIGHT sides together, stitch front to back at side seams, matching the cut edges and notches. Press the stitching to set the stitches. Then open the seam allowances and press the seams open. SIDE SEAM 2061 17. With the RIGHT sides together, insert one pant leg INSIDE the other. 11. Pin the fusible interfacing to WRONG side of two flap sections. Fuse interfacing in place, following manufacturers directions. With the RIGHT sides together, pin flap facing (no interfacing) to flap, matching the cut edges and small dots. Stitch in a 3/8” (1cm) seam, leaving the edge with small dots open. Trim seam; clip curves. 18. With the RIGHT sides together, pin center seam, matching the cut edges, inner leg seams and notches. Stitch the center seam. To reinforce seam, stitch again over first stitching. Press seam open same as before. 12. Turn the flap RIGHT side out; (1.5cm) from raw edge. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch close to finished edge. 2. Turn the pocket to INSIDE; press. 3. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch 1/4” (6mm) from finished edge. 4. On INSIDE, with the RIGHT sides together, fold the yoke and pocket along fold line, matching the cut edges and double notches. Stitch the double notched edge, as shown. 7. For pocket straps, cut two pieces of ribbon, each 21” (53.5cm) long. Fold each strap in half, having ends even. Stitch close to long edges of strap. On OUTSIDE, center strap over placement line for trim on patch pocket, having raw edges even. Starting at lower edge, stitch close to long edges of strap, squaring stitching at end of placement line, as shown. 8. Fold 1/4” (6mm) on the upper edge of the pocket to the WRONG side of the fabric and press. Fold the upper edge of the pocket to the RIGHT side of the fabric along the fold line, forming a pocket facing. Pin. Starting at the fold, stitch along the seam line on side and lower edges of pocket. Trim the seam allowance in the facing area to 1/4” (6mm). 9. Turn the facing to the WRONG side, pushing the corners RIGHT side out with a pin or a point turner, but do it gently. You do not want any holes in the corners. Then fold the side and lower edges along the stitchings to the WRONG side. Press these folds and the facing with an iron. Machine-stitch close to the inner pressed edge of facing. © Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. TO PREPARE AND APPLY CASING, SEE PANTS VIEW A AND B, STEPS 5 THROUGH 13. TO PREPARE THE HEM, SEE PANTS VIEW A, STEPS 14 AND 15. 14. On OUTSIDE, center tab over placement line for trim flap, having raw edges even. Stitch close to long edges of tab and across end along top-stitching. Baste raw edges together. 19. Now you are ready for hemming the pants. Press under 1/4” (6mm) on the raw edge of hem. Stitch hem in place close to the inner pressed edge. 15. On OUTSIDE, pin the flap to front and back, placing basting along flap line, matching small dots, as shown. Stitch along basting. Trim close to stitching. Turn flap down; press. Top-stitch 1/4” (6mm) from upper edge of flap. CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS C AND D 16. With the RIGHT sides together, pin pants front to pants back at inner leg seams, matching the cut edges, notches and small dots. Stitch the seam, stretching the back to fit between notch and small dot. Press seam open same as before. 20. FOR VIEW D- On the OUTSIDE, pin one end of ribbon slightly beyond inner leg seam, placing lower edge of ribbon along hem stitching until you reached the inner leg seam again. Turn under 3/8” (1cm) on remaining end of ribbon and place at inner leg seam, covering the raw end of ribbon. Stitch close to both long edges of ribbon. YOU ARE FINISHED! CONGRATULATIONS AND ENJOY WEARING YOUR PANTS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT YOURSELF! Now that you have completed a Learn to Sew project, you are on your way to creating more sewing projects. INNER LEG SEAM MAKE POCKETS AND CONTINUE FOR VIEW C AS FOLLOWS: 13. For tabs, cut two pieces of ribbon, each 6-1/2” (16.5cm) long. Slip two Drings onto each tab. Fold tab in half having ends even. Baste end together. SEAM
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