English/Spanish 3
2061
®
1/4
GETTING TO KNOW ABOUT THE FABRICS FOR THIS
PATTERN
For this design, notice that Pants A and B are featured in knit
fabrics only and Pants C and D are featured in woven fabrics.
First, lets look at woven fabrics. You will see that there are two
edges that look ﬁnished and don’t unravel or come apart; each of
these edges are called the selvage, which is formed during the
fabric weaving process.
Woven fabrics have two grains: the lengthwise grain, which runs
parallel to the selvage, and the crosswise grain, which runs
perpendicular to the selvage.
Finished Garment
Dots are either small or large circular markings printed on the
pattern pieces which are also used for matching pieces together
and other construction details.
Hip- is printed on the pattern pieces.
Solid Lines- show where to position the ﬂap, placement lines for
trim, make buttonholes or where to fold the fabric.
Broken Lines- are indicated on the pattern as pleats or
placement lines for trim.
SELVAGE
B
A
C
D
LENGTHWISE GRAIN
CROSSWISE GRAIN
PANTS FRONT A, B
CASING C, D
SELVAGE
B
C
A
D
10 pieces given
3
2
1
6
4
7
5
Now, take a look at a knit fabric which is made from interlocking
looped stitches. Ribs are the lengthwise grain and courses are
the crosswise grain. The stretch is usually in the course direction.
However, for two-way stretch fabric, the stretch is in both
directions. Patterns designed for knits only include less wearing
ease or no ease at all because the fabric itself stretches to
provide the necessary ﬁt, comfort and mobility. To learn more
about “ease”, see FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE.
Therefore, it is important to choose the right amount of stretch for
the design. On the back of this envelope, you will ﬁnd the Pick-AKnit®Rule which shows you the amount of stretch you will need
for the design. Fold the knit fabric crosswise and hold it against
the left end of the rule. Pull on the knit to see if the indicated
amount of fabric will easily stretch to the end of the rule. Now let
go of the fabric and it should relax to its original size and shape.
The amount of stretch for Pants A and B is 1” (2.5cm).
Instructions for sewing knit fabrics are given in the section ALL
ABOUT KNITS.
Nap for both wovens and knits is used to indicate fabrics with a
one-way direction because of print designs, light and dark
shading or surface texture (corduroy, satin or stretch velvet). Have
you noticed fabrics that feel smooth when you run your hand
across them one way and feel rough in reverse? That’s the nap.
ABOUT THIS PATTERN
9
8
10
1-PANTS FRONT -A,B
6-YOKE AND POCKET -C,D
2-PANTS BACK -A,B
7-PANTS BACK -C,D
3-CASING -A,B
8-PATCH POCKET -C
4-LEG BAND -B
9-FLAP -C
5-PANTS FRONT -C,D
10-CASING -C,D
What You’ll Need:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Tape Measure
Sewing Machine
Straight Pins
Iron
Fabric Scissors
Ruler
Hand Sewing Needle
Felt Tip Marker or Highlighter
Safety Pin
Ball point or stretch needle in a medium-weight size for knit
fabrics.
This pattern is multi-sized, which means that all of the available
sizes ranging from 6 to 18 are in one pattern. Since there are
seven different sizes included, there are seven cutting lines, one
for each size. Once you choose the size you want to sew, it’s a
good idea to take a felt tip marker or highlighter and trace over the
appropriate cutting line to make it even easier to keep track.
See FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE for how-to’s on getting the right
size pattern to ﬁt you.
Seam allowances are all included on each pattern piece, but are
not marked as actual lines. The standard seam allowance is 5/8”
(1.5cm) unless noted differently.
Now take a look at the pattern. The following lists the
construction markings that are printed on the pattern pieces.
Grain line is the arrow printed on the pattern piece to show
where on the fabric each piece should be placed.
Straight grain line arrow indicates a pattern piece that is placed
parallel to the selvage edge of your fabric.
Notches are tiny triangular markings that are printed in strategic
spots along the cutting line on pattern pieces that are used for
matching pieces together. There are seven different notches, one
for each size same as for the cutting lines and they can be single,
double or triple.
Center line is printed on some pattern pieces as a broken and
dotted line. It can be the center front or center back and it is used
for matching pieces together.
Cutting Line for the View is indicated on the front and back
pattern pieces.
Crotch Line- indicates location of crotch.
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
CUTTING LINE FOR VIEW B
PREP YOUR PATTERN
When you ﬁrst open up the pattern tissue, you’ll see that it comes
in one big piece. Select the pattern pieces for the view you are
making and cut around each piece just outside the cutting line,
which is printed as a solid line on the outer edge. You may have to
press the tissue using a dry iron to smooth out the wrinkles, but
do it gently.
PREP YOUR FABRIC
Before cutting out the fabric, it’s best to pre-shrink washable
fabric by washing and drying.
Fabric needs to be smooth and ﬂat before cutting, so take the
time to press your fabric properly on the wrong side, using the
appropriate temperature setting on your iron.
For corduroy or stretch velvet, press on the WRONG side of
fabric.
A WORD ABOUT INTERFACING....
Interfacing is an extra layer of fabric that provides shape and
support in detailed areas of the garment.
The two basic types of interfacing are non-fusible and fusible. The
back of evelope indicates which type to purchase.
To preshrink fusible interfacing before cutting out pattern pieces,
place interfacing in hot water for 20 minutes (or until water is
cooled); spread interfacing ﬂat to dry.
CUTTING LINE FOR VIEW A
LEARN TO SEW TIP- In addition to the markings, there is also
pattern text you will need to know when sewing your project, such
as the name of piece or amount of hem allowance. Always keep
the tissue pattern pieces and project together so you can refer to
this information.
It’s also a good idea to read through each section before you
proceed with your project.
FIND YOUR PATTERN SIZE
The pants are worn 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below the waist.
This pattern is based on the waist and hip body measurements;
each numbered size (6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18) is designed to ﬁt a
certain waist and hip measurement.
To locate the natural waistline, tie a string snugly around the
waist. If the waist is hard to ﬁnd, then bend sideways. The crease
that forms is at the natural waistline.
Using a tape measure, measure around the waist, comfortably.
Don’t pull too tightly otherwise you will not get an accurate
measurement. Measure around the hip at the widest point.
Find the pattern size with the waist and hip measurements that
most closely matches your own measurement. Once you have
found the size, follow that column down to the Garment
Measurement. The hip measurement is the actual ﬁnished pants,
which has extra room built in to sit, move around and generally
wear them. There is also design ease which is the extra fullness
over and above wearing ease that determines the garment’s
silhouette.
Now, if you are uncertain what size to choose because you are
between sizes, the advice is to choose the smaller size if you are
small boned or choose the larger size if you are large boned.
CUTTING LAYOUTS FOR THE PANTS
Pattern Guide
PATTERN PRINTED PATTERN PRINTED
SIDE UP
SIDE DOWN
• The following indicates the various ways how the fabric is
folded in the Cutting Layouts:
Lengthwise Fold- Fold the
fabric with RIGHT sides
together and selvages are
even.
• Place the pattern pieces on the fabric as follows:
For Straight Grain Line- Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric
with the straight grain line parallel to the selvage.
Measure the distance from both ends of the straight grain line
arrow on the pattern to the selvages.
When it’s lined up exactly, starting at the middle, pin pattern to
fabric, placing pins parallel and inside the cutting lines and
diagonally at corners, smoothing the pattern over the fabric.
You’ll have to turn some of the pattern pieces over and place on
fabric with printed side down so that top edge of all pieces lay in
one direction. This is necessary if fabric has a design going in
one direction.
English/Spanish 3
2/4
A PANTS- SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS
ONLY- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM) BELOW WAIST
USE PIECES 1 2 3
SELVAGES
58" 60" (150CM)
Cut with your scissors positioned so that the pinned pattern is on
the side that is holding the scissors, and excess fabric is on the
other side. Cut along the outer solid line, all around the pattern
piece. You can cut out shape of notches OR...
Snip edge of fabric at the notches, fold lines and center lines.
This is a quick way to indicate the markings on the pattern, but
snipping the fabric is not done for all markings.
1
3
WITH NAP
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS
ALL SIZES
2
FOLD
B PANTS- SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS
ONLY- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM) BELOW WAIST
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4
SELVAGES
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
1
3
ALL SIZES
4
2
FOLD
MARKING INSTRUCTIONS
C PANTS- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM)
BELOW WAIST
Pin Marking Method- Used for transferring markings to WRONG
side of fabric.
Stick straight pins through the pattern tissue and both layers of
fabric at the ends of buttonholes, placement lines for trim/ﬂap,
broken lines for pleats and at the small and large dots. When you
turn the fabric over to the other side, you will see the pins poking
out through the WRONG side of the fabric.
For dots, make a small circle on WRONG side of fabric at pin
point. For buttonholes, placement lines for trim/ﬂap and broken
lines for pleats, take a ruler and a washable fabric pen or pencil
or chalk and draw straight lines connecting the pin points on the
WRONG side of fabric.
Then remove pins that are holding the pattern and fabric together
lifting the pattern piece carefully over the pin heads at the
markings. Mark the dots and lines on the remaining WRONG
side of fabric at the pin heads; then remove the pins.
For casing, you only need to transfer buttonholes to one piece
only.
USE PIECES 5 6 7 8 9 10
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SELVAGES
10
6
5
7
8
FOLD
9
SELVAGES
8
58" 60" (150CM)
9
5
10
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
7
6
9
FOLD
ALL ABOUT KNITS
When stitching seams:
• Use a ball point or stretch needle in a medium-weight size for
your sewing machine.
• When using a straight stitch, stretch the fabric slightly as you
sew.
• For zigzag stitches, use narrow, short to medium length zigzag
stitches.
• If you have a built in stretch stitch on your machine, refer to the
sewing machine manual.
• For knit fabrics that curl or unravel, stitch seam and stitch again
1/8” (3mm) away within the seam allowance, using a straight or
zigzag stitch. Trim close to second row of stitching and press
seam to one side.
If you are up to the challenge, you might want to try using the
overlock/serger machine which stitches, trims and ﬁnishes
seams all in one operation. Before you jump into using this
special machine, you will need to understand how to operate it.
So read the machine manual and for a good source of
information, refer to “Simplicity’s® Simply the Best Sewing Book.”
Best suggestion is to practice on scraps of fabric before you
attempt to try it on your project.
If you decide to use the overlock/serge machine, there are two
ways you can stitch the seam.
1. Serge the seam and press seam to side.
2. Stitch the seam using a conventional machine, then edge
ﬁnish the seam allowances using the overlock/ serger. Press
seam open.
Most of all, have fun using this machine. Once you get the hang
of it, you will want to use it not just for knit fabrics, but for any
project as well.
2. With the RIGHT sides together, pin pants front to pants back at
inner leg seams, matching the cut edges, notches and small
dots. Stitch the seam, stretching the back to ﬁt between notch
and small dot. Press the stitching to set the stitches. Then open
the seam allowances and press the seam open.
INNER LEG SEAM
2061
3. With the RIGHTsides together, pin the center seam, matching the
cut edges, inner leg seams and notches. Stitch.
To reinforce seam, stitch again over ﬁrst stitching. Press seam
open same as before.
Fabric Guide
RIGHT SIDE
OF FABRIC
WRONG SIDE INTERFACING
OF FABRIC
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PANTS VIEWS
A AND B
CENTER
BACK
CENTER
FRONT
NOTE: Pants are worn 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below the waist.
INTERFACING
SELS.
USE PIECE 9
1. To make pleats in pants front, on INSIDE, bring broken lines
together. Stitch along broken lines.
9
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
FOLD
Press pleat ﬂat, bringing stitching to center.
Baste across upper raw edge.
D PANTS- WORN 1 1/2" (3.8CM)
BELOW WAIST
4. With the RIGHT sides together, stitch front to back at side seams,
matching the cut edges and notches. Press seams open same
as before.
USE PIECES 5 6 7 10
44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
5
6
7
FOLD
SELVAGES
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
5
10
ALL SIZES
7
6
Transfer Lines From Wrong Side to Right Side of FabricOnce you are done transferring markings, you can transfer the
placement lines for trim/ ﬂap and buttonholes from the WRONG
side to the RIGHT side of the fabric by hand-basting. Basting
may take a little extra time in the beginning, but it’s worth the
effort in the end. Remove the pattern piece and separate the
layers.
Hand-baste along the marking lines on the WRONG side of
fabric. Basting stitches are formed by simply pulling the needle
and thread in and out of the fabric in approximately
1/2” (1.3cm) to 3/4” (2cm) long stitches. Remove the handbasting when completed.
FOLD
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
SIDE SEAM
10
SIDE SEAM
SELVAGES
English/Spanish 3
3/4
9. Press seam toward garment, pressing casing out.
5. Cut two 1" (2.5cm) squares of fusible interfacing. Center and fuse
interfacing to WRONG side of one casing section over each
buttonhole area, following manufacturer’s directions. If you don’t
have fusible interfacing, use 1” (2.5cm) square of fabric remnant.
Apply in same manner as for intefacing (except for fusing) and
baste close to raw edges of remnant. Remove basting after
making buttonholes.
On OUTSIDE, make buttonholes in casing at markings, following
manufacturer’s manual. This is the front casing.
13. .Cut a piece of twill tape the measurement of your waist plus 45”
(115cm) for drawstring. Attach a safety pin to one end of
drawstring same as for elastic. Insert drawstring and safety pin
through one buttonhole opening in casing through the casing and
out through remaining buttonhole. Fasten into a bow when
wearing. Knot ends of drawstring.
LEARN TO SEW TIP- How about slipping a bead through ends
of drawstring and then knot the ends!
YOU ARE FINISHED! CONGRATULATIONS AND ENJOY
WEARING YOUR PANTS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE THEM
YOURSELF!
Now that you have completed a Learn to Sew project, you
are on your way to creating more sewing projects.
10. Cut a piece of elastic your waist measurement plus 3” (7.5cm).
Pin a large safety pin to one end of the elastic. This will help you
keep track of the elastic end and make it easier to thread it
through the casing.
Insert the safety pin through the opening in the casing and thread
the elastic all the way through until it emerges from the other side
of the opening. Overlap the elastic ends and hold them with a
safety pin. Try on the pants and adjust the elastic to ﬁt
comfortably so that the top of the casing is 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below
your natural waistline. If the elastic is too loose, overlap more; if
too tight, overlap less.
Leg Band for Pants View B
Hem For Pants View A
6. With RIGHT sides together, pin the casing sections together at
side edges, matching the cut edges, small dots and notches.
Stitch the side seams of casing, leaving an opening between
small dots, as shown. Back-stitch at small dots to reinforce seam.
To back-stitch, touch the reverse button on the machine.
Press the seams open same as before.
14. Try on the pants and see where you would like the ﬁnished hem.
Mark this length by placing pins parallel to the ﬂoor at the front,
back, inner leg seam and outside this spot for each leg. It may be
difﬁcult to do this on your own, so you may want to get someone
to do this for you.
Remove the pants. Put the pants leg on a ﬂat surface and match
up the markings so that the hem is straight and even.
Fold this amount up to the INSIDE. Press the fold ﬂat, re-pinning
the hem in place perpendicular to the hem. Try on the pants one
more time to make sure the legs are even.
You may have to make some minor adjustments.
Remove the pants.
11. Stitch the overlapped ends of the elastic together securely.
7. To keep elastic from getting stuck in the seam allowances as it’s
inserted, use machine-basting or fusible web to anchor them to
the casing. Be sure to remove basting after casing is ﬁnished.
Fold casing in half, lengthwise, with WRONG sides together,
matching the cut edges and notches. Baste raw edges together.
The side with the opening is the UNDERSIDE of the casing.
Basting will not show in the following illustrations.
16. Now you are ready for hemming the pants.
Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and 1/4" (6mm)
below ﬁrst stitching.
17. With the RIGHT sides together, stitch ends of leg band together,
matching the cut edges and single notches. Press the seam
open same as before.
18. Fold the band in half, with WRONG sides together, matching the
cut edges, seams and notches; press.
On OUTSIDE, pin band to leg edge of pants, matching the cut
edges, placing the seam at the inner leg seam and small dot at
the side seam. Stitch, stretching the band to ﬁt the leg edge.
Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from ﬁrst stitching within the seam
allowance. Trim close to second stitching. If you prefer, zig-zag
raw edges together.
FINISH
HEM LINE
8. With the UNDERSIDE of casing facing you, pin casing to the
RIGHT side of the garment matching the cut edges, notches,
centers and side seams.
Stitch along seam line. Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from ﬁrst stitching
within seam allowance. Trim close to second stitching. If you
prefer, zig-zag raw edges together.
19. Press seam toward garment, pressing band out.
SIDE SEAM
12. Pull the casing until all of the elastic is INSIDE.
With a needle and thread, hand-sew the casing opening on the
INSIDE closed. Distribute the fullness over the elastic evenly, so
there in no bunching or binding at the upper edge.
15. Measure the depth of hem 1-1/4” (3.2cm) from the folded edge to
the raw edge, using a ruler. If the measurement is exactly 1-1/4”
(3.2cm) from the fold to the raw edge all the way around, then
you don’t need to mark. The hem allowance is even and ready for
hemming.
If the hem allowance is not even, mark the depth of hem
1-1/4” (3.2cm) from the folded edge to the raw edge using a
fabric pen, pencil or chalk. Also, repin the pins and place them
close to the folded edge. Carefully, trim away the excess (top
layer) along this marking. Do Not trim through both layers!
INNER LEG
2061
YOU ARE FINISHED! CONGRATULATIONS AND ENJOY
WEARING YOUR PANTS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT
YOURSELF!
Now that you have completed a Learn to Sew project, you
are on your way to creating more sewing projects.
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
English/Spanish 3
4/4
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PANTS VIEWS
C AND D
NOTE: Pants are worn 1-1/2” (3.8cm) below waist.
1. With the RIGHT sides
together, pin yoke and pocket
to pants front, matching the
cut edges, notches and small
dots. Stitch single notched
edge. Trim seam; clip curves
10. On OUTSIDE, pin pocket to
front and back, placing
upper corners at large dots.
Starting at the upper side
edge of pocket, take two or
three machine-stitches,
then back-stitch two or
three stitches by touching
the reverse button on your
machine. Continue
stitching close to the side
and lower edges, then
back-stitch again on the
other side of the pocket.
5. On the OUTSIDE, lap pants
front over yoke and pocket
section, matching the cut
edges and small dots; pin.
Baste raw edges together
along the side and upper
edges.
6. With the RIGHT sides
together, stitch front to
back at side seams,
matching the cut edges
and notches.
Press the stitching to
set the stitches. Then
open the seam
allowances and press
the seams open.
SIDE SEAM
2061
17. With the RIGHT sides
together, insert one pant
leg INSIDE the other.
11. Pin the fusible interfacing to
WRONG side of two ﬂap sections.
Fuse interfacing in place, following
manufacturers directions. With the
RIGHT sides together, pin ﬂap
facing (no interfacing) to ﬂap,
matching the cut edges and small
dots. Stitch in a 3/8” (1cm) seam,
leaving the edge with small dots
open. Trim seam; clip curves.
18. With the RIGHT sides
together, pin center
seam, matching the cut
edges, inner leg seams
and notches. Stitch the
center seam. To
reinforce seam, stitch
again over ﬁrst stitching.
Press seam open same
as before.
12. Turn the ﬂap RIGHT side out;
(1.5cm) from raw edge. On
OUTSIDE, top-stitch close to
ﬁnished edge.
2. Turn the pocket to INSIDE;
press.
3. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch
1/4” (6mm) from ﬁnished
edge.
4. On INSIDE, with the
RIGHT sides together,
fold the yoke and pocket
along fold line, matching
the cut edges and double
notches. Stitch the
double notched edge, as
shown.
7. For pocket straps, cut two pieces of ribbon, each 21” (53.5cm)
long. Fold each strap in half, having ends even. Stitch close to
long edges of strap.
On OUTSIDE, center strap over placement line for trim on patch
pocket, having raw edges even. Starting at lower edge, stitch
close to long edges of strap, squaring stitching at end of
placement line, as shown.
8. Fold 1/4” (6mm) on the upper edge of the pocket to the WRONG
side of the fabric and press.
Fold the upper edge of the pocket to the RIGHT side of the fabric
along the fold line, forming a pocket facing. Pin. Starting at the
fold, stitch along the seam line on side and lower edges of
pocket. Trim the seam allowance in the facing area to 1/4” (6mm).
9. Turn the facing to the WRONG side,
pushing the corners RIGHT side out
with a pin or a point turner, but do it
gently. You do not want any holes in
the corners. Then fold the side and
lower edges along the stitchings to
the WRONG side. Press these folds
and the facing with an iron.
Machine-stitch close to the inner
pressed edge of facing.
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
TO PREPARE AND APPLY CASING, SEE PANTS VIEW A
AND B, STEPS 5 THROUGH 13.
TO PREPARE THE HEM, SEE PANTS VIEW A, STEPS 14
AND 15.
14. On OUTSIDE, center tab over
placement line for trim ﬂap,
having raw edges even. Stitch
close to long edges of tab and
across end along top-stitching.
Baste raw edges together.
19. Now you are ready for hemming the pants.
Press under 1/4” (6mm) on the raw edge of hem. Stitch hem in
place close to the inner pressed edge.
15. On OUTSIDE, pin the ﬂap to front
and back, placing basting along
ﬂap line, matching small dots, as
shown. Stitch along basting. Trim
close to stitching. Turn ﬂap down;
press. Top-stitch 1/4” (6mm) from
upper edge of ﬂap.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS C
AND D
16. With the RIGHT sides together,
pin pants front to pants back at
inner leg seams, matching the cut
edges, notches and small dots.
Stitch the seam, stretching the
back to ﬁt between notch and
small dot. Press seam open
same as before.
20. FOR VIEW D- On the OUTSIDE, pin one end of ribbon slightly
beyond inner leg seam, placing lower edge of ribbon along hem
stitching until you reached the inner leg seam again. Turn under
3/8” (1cm) on remaining end of ribbon and place at inner leg
seam, covering the raw end of ribbon. Stitch close to both long
edges of ribbon.
YOU ARE FINISHED! CONGRATULATIONS AND ENJOY
WEARING YOUR PANTS KNOWING THAT YOU MADE IT
YOURSELF!
Now that you have completed a Learn to Sew project, you
are on your way to creating more sewing projects.
INNER LEG SEAM
MAKE POCKETS AND CONTINUE FOR VIEW
C AS FOLLOWS:
13. For tabs, cut two pieces of ribbon,
each 6-1/2” (16.5cm) long. Slip two Drings onto each tab. Fold tab in half
having ends even. Baste end together.
SEAM