3830 McCALL'S
®
rev.
Place on fold
PATTERN MARKINGS
ADJUST IF NECESSARY
CUTTING AND MARKING
GRAINLINE: Place on straight grain of fabric, an even distance
from selvage or fold
A pattern is made to fit body measurements, with extra ease for comfort and
style. Adjust pieces before placing on
fabric. Adjust back waist, sleeve and
finished garment lengths using
McCALL’s Easy-Rule Guide.
SHRINK FABRIC not labeled pre-shrunk. Press.
CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width.
Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface
shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used.
For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD) - fold fabric with Right Sides
Together.
TO SHORTEN:
Crease on Easy-Rule
Guide. Fold necessary amount. Tape in
place.
DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD) - For
fabrics with nap, fold fabric crosswise, RIGHT SIDES
TOGETHER. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold
of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in
same direction and place over lower layer, RIGHT
SIDES TOGETHER (B).
TO LENGTHEN: Cut
on dotted lines of
Easy-Rule Guide.
Spread necessary
amount. Tape over
paper.
For SINGLE THICKNESS - place fabric Right Side Up.
Before CUTTING place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Overlap
margins. Pin.
Cut ACCURATELY through fabric and pattern on cutting line. Cut notches
outward.
When Easy-Rule Guide is not on tissue,
lengthen or shorten at lower edge.
BEFORE REMOVING PATTERN, transfer markings to Wrong Side of fabric.
Two ways which may be used quickly are the Pin and Chalk Pencil method or
Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel.
FOLD LINE: Place on fold of fabric.
CUTTING LINE: For cutting.
SEAM LINE: For stitching.
FRONT
SEAM ALLOWANCE: Distance between cutting and seam lines,
usually 5/8” (1.5cm). On multi-sized patterns seam allowance is
included, but not printed on tissue.
BACK
NOTCHES AND SYMBOLS: For matching pattern pieces.
46” (117cm)
E
E
D
D
C
C
B
B
A
A
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT SYMBOL: The finished
garment measurements at bust and/or hip are printed on your
Front pattern pieces. The measurement includes Body
Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease. The
measurement excludes pleats, tucks, darts and seam allowances.
Measurements are also printed on the back of the pattern
envelope when space is available.
LAYOUT NOTES
∗
B
A
Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for smaller sizes.
This McCall pattern may have cutting lines for several
sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for
your size.
If pattern is petite-able, layouts illustrated are suitable for
corresponding Petite sizes.
★ Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this
piece. Open fabric. For “Cut 1” pieces, cut piece once on
single layer of fabric with piece face up on right side of
fabric. For “Cut 2” pieces, cut piece twice on single layer of
fabric, once with piece face up and once with piece face
down on right side of fabric.
CUTTING LAYOUTS
NOTE: Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for
smaller sizes.
A,B OR C - CONTINUED
A,B OR C - CONTINUED
D OR E - CONTINUED
sizes 12-14-16-18-20-22
sizes 20-22
sizes 18-20-22
NOTE: This McCall pattern has cutting lines for several
sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for
your size.
Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this
*piece.
Open fabric. For “Cut 1” pieces, cut piece once on
single layer of fabric with piece face up on right side of
fabric. For “Cut 2” pieces, cut piece twice on single layer
of fabric, once with piece face up and once with piece face
down on right side of fabric.
3
FOLD
1
1
2
4
3
4
FOLD
A THRU E
1
4
5
5
2
5 PATTERN PIECES
5
2
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
3
SKIRT A THRU E
SELVAGES
FOLD
use pieces 3, 4
SELVAGE
5
54” (140cm)
synthetic leather
sizes 6-8-10-12-14-16
INTERFACING
SELVAGE
3
1
2
EDGE
4
3
21” thru 25”
(53 thru 64cm)
all sizes
CROSSFOLD
5
3
4
EDGE
5
1
SELVAGES
5
3
1
3
SELVAGES
sizes 18-20-22
SELVAGE
2
4
FOLD
60” (150cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
54” (140cm)
synthetic leather
sizes 6-8-10-12-14
5
2
SELVAGE
3
4
1
1
FOLD
2
4
2
FOLD
FOLD
A,B OR C
SKIRT A THRU E
1. BACK
2. FRONT
3. BACK FACING
4. FRONT FACING
5. CARRIER
45” (115cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
sizes 6-8-10
4
SKIRT
use pieces 1 thru 5
(piece 5 is optional)
D OR E
sizes 16-18
60” (150cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
SKIRT
use pieces 1 thru 5
(piece 5 is optional)
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
5
3
5
5
1
1
2
FOLD
2
3
4
FOLD
SELVAGE
3
4
45” (115cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
sizes 6-8-10-12-14-16
SELVAGE
1
SELVAGES
3
2
5
1
FOLD
2
4
4
FOLD
PRINTED IN U.S.A.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 2
FABRIC KEY
SEWING DIRECTIONS
2. FACING
CENTER BACK SEAM - VIEW D OR E
Fuse INTERFACING to wrong side of each BACK FACING (3)
and FRONT FACING (4), following manufacturer's directions.
SKIRT
3830 - PAGE 2 OF 2
Stitch center back seam from lower
edge to circle.
1. BACK AND FRONT
SEWING INFORMATION
Turn right side out. Press.
Cut four carriers from this strip, each 31⁄2" (9cm) long. Discard
excess.
3
4
Machine-baste opening edges
together above large circle.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Stitch back facing to front
facing at sides.
With right sides together,
pin carriers to lower position
on skirt, having raw edge
extending 5/8" (1.5cm)
above line indicated. Stitch
5/8" (1.5cm) from raw edge.
FINISH un-notched edge
of facing.
Cut carrier seam allowance
to 1/4" (6mm).
BACK DARTS - ALL VIEWS
Use 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated.
Trim enclosed seam
allowances into layers.
Trim corners.
To make dart in each BACK (1), fold
right sides together, matching solid lines
and circles. Stitch on solid line. Press
fold of darts toward center.
1
ZIPPER - ALL VIEWS
CENTER BACK SEAM - VIEW A, B OR C
Notch outer curves.
Clip inner curves.
On inside, center closed zipper face
down over basted seam with top-stop 1"
(2.5cm) from upper edge. Hand-baste
through all thicknesses - tape and fabric.
Pin facing to skirt, right
sides together, matching
notches, center front and
side seams. Back edges
of facing extend 5/8"
(1.5cm). Adjust ease.
Baste. Stitch upper edge.
Trim seam allowances.
FINISH raw edge of extensions.
Stitch center back seam between
large circle and small circle, pivot
at small circle and stitch across
extensions.
PIN AND FIT
Pin or baste seams, RIGHT SIDE TOGETHER, matching
notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams.
Machine-baste opening edges
together above large circle.
On outside, stitch 1/4" (6mm) from seam
with a zipper foot. Remove basting.
Press carriers upward. Turn under 5/8" (1.5cm)
on raw edge and pin to waist edge over dart.
EDGESTITCH close to turned under edge.
4. HEM
Turn facing to inside. Press.
PRESS
Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated.
Clip where necessary so they lie flat.
Turn in back edges of facing and hand-sew to zipper tapes.
Catch-stitch facing to seams.
Turn up a 21⁄4" (5.7cm) hem on lower edge of skirt, opening out
left extension for View A. B or C. Baste close to fold. Press.
Open out hem. FINISH raw edge. Replace hem and
BLINDSTITCH in place. Press.
FRONT AND SIDE SEAMS
GLOSSARY
Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in SEWING
DIRECTIONS are explained below.
BLINDSTITCH - Turn edge down about 1/4" (6mm). Make a
small diagonal stitch by picking up one thread of garment, then
one thread of hem or facing.
EASESTITCH - Stitch along seamline, using long machine
stitches. Pull up thread ends when adjusting to fit. NOTE: For
sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches 1/4"
(6mm) away in seam allowance. for more control.
EDGESTITCH - Stitch close to finished edge or seam.
Make darts in FRONT
(2). Press fold of darts
toward center.
Clip right back seam
allowance above extension.
Stitch front to back at
sides.
Sew hook and eye (or make thread eye) above zipper.
Turn extensions toward left
side, folding left back along
fold line. Press seam
allowances open above clip
and extensions flat. Pin or
baste upper edge of
extensions in place.
FINISH - Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one of
the following: pink, overcast or turn in along stitching and stitch
close to fold or overlock.
OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply seam binding.
3. OPTIONAL CARRIERS
SLIPSTITCH - (Used to join two folded edges or one folded
edge to a flat surface.) Slide needle through a folded edge; then
pick up a thread from the opposite fold or surface.
Fold CARRIERS (5) in half lengthwise, right sides together.
Stitch long edges, taking up a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance.
On outside, stitch extensions in place
along line indicated on left back.
TOPSTITCH - On outside, stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, seam or
previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch where
indicated in instructions.
2
EASESTITCH waist edge.
5
For View A. B or C, turn left
extension to inside again.
SLIPSTITCH lower edges
together and inner edge to
hem. Press. SLIPSTITCH
right back edges together.