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2. needlework

Mid-Tudor men’s clothes
As always your first problem is to decide what garments are appropriate for the role
you are playing — just how old fashioned and conservative are you going to be? The
period is one of transition, and this is seen most clearly in the men’s clothes. The
different levels of society seem to encapsulate different aspects of this transition.
Among field workers, the clothes are finally beginning to leave the Middle Ages, but
there are features that we would recognise from a hundred years earlier.
There are changes afoot - or rather ‘ahose’ -as more
and more men are adopting upper hose and nether
hose In place of the full-length hose of earlier times.
At this period both would be made from woven
material for the majority of the population – knitted
fabrics were used largely for hats, sleeves and only
possibly for leggings. The upper hose were probably
easier to keep up and in good order, and from now on
will become the normal wear for all men. For many,
the upper hose of the period end mid-thigh and can
be obscured ly the jackets and jerkins of the period. A
pity, that, when it obscures that wonder of the age the codpiece.
Among the middle classes the transition is from the
bulkier, earlier Tudor fashions to the leaner ones of
the Elizabethan age. For the rich and famous the
same streamlining process is occurring, but this group
has already left the longer styles of their fathers. The
change is going to be from a solid square on top of
sleekly clad legs to a shapely hourglass (with butch
shoulders and you-know-what) above fine legs. Some
of this will be Philip of Spain’s fault, so don’t be too
froward. It is wisest to think of the fashionable of
1553 as still wearing the clothes favoured by Edward.
•The naming of the garments is a bit confusing
but a full list of them will
appear in the following
sections.
• Thos Moore lookalikes
still abound among the
middle rank of men –
even though he’s been
dead and gone twenty
years.
What clothes men were wearing
Shirts Linen garment covering all the
upper body, looser fitting than today’s.
Fandness depends on rank. Top-of-therange shirts sport proto-ruffs and lots of
black embroidery.
Braies linen pants (hose seams
were such chancy things) were?are?
comfortable and respectable and
authentic.
Hose Long hose, like unto present day
ski hose covered you from waist to foot.
Made from wool cut on the bias. Snug
fitting garment found now only among
the workers. Upper hose, upper stocks,
breeches, eventually trunk-hose
etc. etc. At simplest these are knee
length and Bermuda short-like
(sometimes longer and almost sailor
suit-like) but fashionably they are thigh
length. and the leg part is decorated with
panes, puff and general decoration. True
trunk hose with the fullness coming
from the waist are only just appearing
on the scene. You will need a good story
to justify them.
Doublets, sleeved and sleeveless
Snug-fitting upper body garment Fairly
high waisted and not as tight fitting as
Contents
1 Introduction
What clothes are
needed
2 Who wears what, braies
3 Shirts
4 Upper hose (Breeches)
8 Long hose
9 Nether hose (Stocking
substitutes); Gaiters
10 Doublets
13 Jerkins, gowns etc
16 Hats
16 Accessories
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 1
in the later 1550s. Very plain and business
like at the lower end of the social scale. Can
be without skirt or with short ones. Can be
sleeveless (this can be a separate layer —
descended from earlier pourpoint). Sleeves can
be full and deep-set; tabs and lacing in strips
don’t seem to be common. Posher variants have
longer, stiffened skirts. Decoration is generally
solid and restrained.
Jerkins Peasant variants: waisted and skirted
garments, sometimes sleeveless. Upper class
variants fit over and embellish the doublet. Side
closing garments are found at both levels.
Gowns Lower class, waistless and coatlike;
middle class - knee to calf length or longer, full
and academic-gown-like; upper class - shorter,
squarer and decorative (sort of Henry VIIIlike).
Hats These are worn by all. The pancake hat is
the most familiar item at both upper and lower
ends of the spectrum. Felt hats are important
for the lower orders, but not yet seen in shaped
form among the upper echelons. A variety of
other hats, coifs and bonnets is also found.
Shoes and accessories
Do not ignore or forget these.
Who wore
what
Lower class
Middle class
Upper class
Shirt
Yes — plain
Yes — some frills
Yes — fancy
Braies
For modesty useful
No-one will ever see
No-one will ever see
Long hose
Rather rare
Very unlikely
No
Nether hose
Maybe but many will
have bare legs
Plain or slightly baggy
Fine cross cut hose desirable as no
knitted hose yet
Fancy but partly covered by jerkin
Jerkin
Most important, jacketlike
Plain
Yes remember no knitted hose
yet
Baggy hose becoming norm
but generally covered by gown
Only a bit seen — replaced by
petticoat or half kirtle
Less important than the gown
Gown
Rare
Important outer garment
Cloak
Rough
Useful in rain
Headgear
Obligatory, cloth, felt
or straw
Plain bag, knife, belt,
gaiters, shoes, apron etc
Old styles as important as the
newer one
Bag, belt, short sword, shoes,
boots, sparce jewellery
Upper hose
Doublet
Accessories
Worn with an English gown usually
replaced by a half kirtle
Chief outer garment. Vertical slits
very common
More important as you get older or
more superior
Useful rather than decorative sometime with hood
Smaller than the Henry’s reign often
decorated
Sword, belt, shoes, bags, jewellery
Braies
• Old-style boxer
shorts and very
comfortable to
boot or bum.
Most likely to be
seen when lower
class hose part
from lower class
shirts — or (alas)
just part along
some seam or
other.
Materials required: 5070cm softish cotton definitely not unwashed
calico. Cord approz 1 x
waist measurement.
Pattern pieces: Just one —
see diagram — cut twice.
Eyelet
Half wait measurement plus 10cm (4”)
Front
waist to
crotch
Drafting the pattern: Size up
pattern to fit. Make sure curve
around the top of the leg is 3cm longer than
your thigh measurement. Don’t make it too
loose or you will fall out.
Construction notes: Sew pieces together
along centre front and centre back seams. Sew
crotch seam and hem, bind over or face leg
openings. Work eyelets 5cm (2*) down from
the top edge and 8cm (2”)) along from the
centre front seam. Turn the top edge over
Page 2 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
Measure around top
of leg
Centre back waist to crotch
+ 4cm (1½”)
1.5cm (¾”) and
2.5cm (1”) and stitch
down all the way
around. Run a cord
from the first eyelet
across the front of your braies, right round
your body across the front again and out of
the second hole. When you tie up the cord
the front will form a little pouch known as a
gouliere to accommodate you. Experiment
until you get a good fit, as I believe it is quite
critical here!
Special decorative features — Not very
important.
• Everyone needs shirts,
go this is a good place for
you to start your sewing
endeavours. As with all
garments, please read the
instructions several times
and don’t panic. On second
thoughts, why should you be
spared — I have panicked
considerably over the writing
of the same.
Shirts
Shirt pattern
To fold
Size if the
neck depends
on the style
• Look at all the notes,
even when they are for
garments types you do
not require. I have tried
to duplicate most of the
instructions, where appropriate, but no doubt
there are bits of info that
did not get spread about
enough.
Back
Shoulder to wrist
Cut neck fuller
where gathering
onto neck band
Neck
to
midthigh
Cut 2
Neck measurement + 2.5cm (1”)
Front
1½ – 2 X
the top arm
measurement
D
C
B A
Wrist
band cut
to the wrist
measure
A
D
B
Gusset
35cm (14”)
Narrower for
peasant shirt (not
gathered) wider
where gathered
Adjacent sides
sew onto the
body
Sew the gusset into
the upper part of the
sleeve seam
50cm (20””)
Style notes: Full T-shaped garment worn
for comfort and hygiene under all your other
garments. Simple neck and wrist openings for
lower class, fuller and gathered onto bands for
middle class, frilled and fancy for upper class.
Collars are occasionally seen — but they are
still a bit foreign.
Pattern pieces — see diagram
Drafting the pattern: Adjust the body length
and width to your own measurements — see
diagram — adjust the sleeve length and width
similarly. Posher varieties can be cut very much
fuller.
Materials required: Linen or cotton (much the
cheaper nowadays, completely the opposite then).
Look for fabrics that are not too stiff and/or bulky
— avoid poplin, polyester and cotton with polyester
and other nasties in it. The occasional viscose can
be all right, but keep it quiet. Coarser fabrics (loose
weave calicos and muslins, generally unbleached) are
good at the lower levels; fabrics get finer the further
up you go. Cords to secure neck and wrist bands for
some lower class, most middle class and upper class.
Embroidery thread etc if fancy upper class.
Cutting out and fitting: The pattern can be drafted
directly onto the fabric. The actual positioning of the
pieces depends on the width of the fabric — the prize
goes to the person who uses the least. Fit is not critical,
but you do need room to stretch.
Construction notes: Sew the gussets to the sleeves
— see diagram — and sew up the underarm seam.
Gather bottom edge of sleeves and sew onto the
wrist band. (Sew frill on if applicable — middle and
upper class only). Hem sleeve if applicable, finish wrist
band and/or hem frill. Add ties as appropriate. Finish
neck opening in a similar way. (Separate ruff not yet
in, but you may want to separate shirt and frill for
washing purposes). Sew sleeves to the body. Sew up
underarm sleeves and hem around the bottom.
Special decorative
Gather frill on to band
or pleat it on to band
features:
Ties, bands and
frills. Embroidery
only on the
shirts of the
exceedingly rich.
Everyone needs
a shirt and most
people need
two.
• There is nothing quite
go good as the original
sources when it comes to
deciding what you need for
decoration and fastenings etc
Double
box pleated
frill
Frill creates a proto-ruff
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 3
Upper hose — plain, fancy and extra fancy
• The more fashionable
solution to what to wear on
your lower body. Late into
the century you can see that
short hose are really long
hose cut off at the knee, or
the thigh and (optionally)
decorated. I haven’t given
you a draft that will show
this, with a nice aeam — like
black stockings — straight
up the back of the leg.
Instead the draft on the
following page puts the seam
down the inside of the leg.
You can cut your draft and
reposition the seam over
your bum. This does give
a very nice fit especially if
you cut the fabric out on the
bias and fit the bum seam
carefully.
Fancy hose plus puff
NB The puff may start at the waist
Simple hose plus decoration
Knee length
& shorter
• I now think that the fullness probably starts at the
waist. This is easier to make
but since when has that
washed with the Tudors!
Fancy hose with panes
Simplest form of uper hose
Styles of hose
Style notes — There are three main
types of upper hose; simple hose; simple
hose with decorations; and fancy hose.
The simplest styles of hose are suitable
for out-door workers. Simply decorated
hose are appropriate for soldiers, indoor
servants and the middle classes. The
upper class wear fancier hose that match
their doublets etc.
Pattern pieces — See diagram opposite.
Materials required: Drafting materials to make
pattern; top fabric; interlining or foundation
material (optional except in the posher numbers),
lining material; for waist and front and/or
petersham for waist band; fastenings or points;
padding for codpiece and optionally for the fuller
varieties. Decorative materials (optional).
Drafting the pattern: Scale up the trouser draft
shown on the next page so that it will fit you.
Front and waist facings (or waist band) are
obtained from the drafted pattern or from
measurements. The pattern for the codpiece
Trouser legs
are too tight
Cut the draft
down the middle and add
more width
here
Page 4 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
should be scaled up appropriately from the
diagram. (Note for the extrovert – don’t go wild.)
Cutting out and fitting: Cut out a toile based on
your draft with 2.5cm (I”) seam allowances from
a reasonably firm fabric - I use washed calico or
cotton — and sew it up for the first fitting. This
can be used as interlining for the posher pants
and as lining for plain ones. Sew inside legs (and
side seam) if present, sew the seat seam round to
the front leaving the top 15cm (6”) open at the
front. Try on, holding the centre front together
with safety pins, and check for fit. If you want
a very snug fit, cut hose on the bias and take in
the seams somewhat. Check the lower edge and
adjust as appropriate. If the fit seems fine, undo
all the seams - marking any alterations - and iron
flat. The ironed pattern pieces will be used to
cut out lining and top fabric. Draft waist and leg
bands - this is a simple solution, especially if the
waist is not going to be seen. Cut strip of canvas
4cm (1W) x waist measurement plus 2.5cm
(I”), and machine stitch it onto calico 10cm X
waist measurement plus 5cm (2”) - see diagram.
Flat tack your top fabric to the calico along the
marked sewing lines. Leg bands are cut out and
made up the same way. If hose are
very simple and unpuffed, cut facings
for waist - see diagram. The bottom of
the legs can just be hemmed.
If the crotch is too tight (or
you can’t fit the measurements
into the space) — add extra
to the under-leg
What to do if the draft
hose don’t fit
The 1553 trouser draft
You need:
(1) Waist measurement
(2) Seat measurement
(3) Inside leg to knee (for simple hose) or
inside leg to mid-thi&h (for upper and
upper-middle class)
(4)Bise
(5) Knee or thigh measurement
(6) Waist to crotch (front)
(7) Crotch to waist (back)
Take a large rectangle of paper at least 70cm x
50cm. Draw a horizontal line parallel to the long
edge and 10cm (4”) down from the top, and
mark it A-A’ so that the distance between A and
A’- ^ x (1) + 25 cm (10”).
On this plot point B 10cm (4”) from A; and
point C 12.5cm (5”) from point A’. Plot point X
halfway between B and C. Plot AG - (4) at right
angles to A-A’, and continue it to H so that GH °
desired length of hose = (3).
Draw in G-G’ (the seat Hne) and H-H’ (the
bottom edge) parallel to A-A’; draw in X - X’
perpendicular to A-A’.
Plot the point Y between X and C. 1.5cm (½”)
from C, and draw YF perpendicular to A-A’ =
6cm (21)411). Join points FB. Draw curve FCG’
greater than (7) and draw curve BG greater than
(6).
Draw point J at x (5) + 3cm W) from X’ and
point K at X (5) + 4cm (1W) from X’ along the
fine H-H’,
This draft is designed for someone of medium
size - waist about 85cm (34*). For every 5cm (2*)
your waist differs from that magic number please
add or subtract a bit at the following places.
Make A-A’ 0.6cm | W) longer (divide it evenly
between AB and CA’, since this bit relates to your
thickness from front to back). And for every 5cm
(2”) on or off your waist add or subtract 0.8cm
(W) to the measurement YF.
Simple upper hose — construction notes
Once you have a toile that fits, cut out the
lining and top fabric exactly the same from
this (or use the toile as lining). If using toile
as foundation layer, sew top fabric onto it.
Sew up leg seams. Iron seams flat. Turn
one leg right side out and put it inside the
other to sew up the seat seam. Sew this
seam from centre back to 15cm (6*) below
centre front. Make up the lining the same
way. Finish off the bottom of the legs. If
you’re not using leg bands, fold in and iron
Thigh line
This is the basic draft - what you do with it
depends on your role in life/Kentwell. It is ready
to be cut and modified to give the style you
require. Simple fitting hose need to be taken in a
bit at the waist and possibly along the lower edge
— this is done most easily by making a seam
along X-X’ and taking out some of the fullness
at both the top and the bottom (about 2.5cm
(I”) in both cases). This gives a two-piece trouser
draft.
You also require pattern pieces for the waist
band and leg bands (or facings), and for the
codpiece and any other decoration you require.
First check that the draft fits. Copy the outline of
your trouser pattern and pin it onto foundation
or scrap material with sufficient material for
seam allowances. Sew up each inside leg seam,
and then sew the legs together around the crotch
(leave 15- 20cm open at the front so that you can
try them on). Try on and check that you have the
right fit.
Certain figures may have problems with this
draft: the diagrams on the previous page may
help here. Make copies of the final fitting trouser
and use that for all subsequent pattern making
• If you fail to make
a pattern from these
instructions, find an old
pair of trousers that fit
you and take them to
pieces. You can then
draw round the front and
back pieces (chopping
them off at the desired
length between mid-thigh
and knee) and modify the
resultant pattern to get
the style you want — see
diagram. Not perfect
but gives you almost the
desired result.
the seam allowances of both top fabric and
lining and slip stitch them in place, ff you
are using leg bands, sew the short ends of
the bands together. Fold and iron where
the bottom edge of the leg band is to be.
Sew the band on to the bottom of the
trouser leg, placing right side to right side;
then fold over the seam allowance on the
other edge and slip stitch it in place behind
the first sewing line. If using a waist band,
turn in seam allowances on the centre front
opening and slip stitch the lining down
onto the top fabric.
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 5
Put on a waist band only if the top of the hose will not be seen. Facing is better.
Sew leg
and back
seamss
Stitch lining and top fabric together
onto the waist-band (start this 2.5cm
from the start of waist band — see
diagram). Gather or ease the hose part,
if necessary.
Fold over and slip stitch the waist band
in place, and sew two strong hooks and
bars to fasten, if using facing — mount
onto firm fabric, and hem or over-sew
along bottom edge. Tack lining and top
fabrics together all the way round top
and front opening. Sew on the facing.
Trim and turn right side out. Iron.
Herringbone down the facing.
Select style of the codpiece. Scale up to
correct size. Cut out in top fabric and
foundation fabric. Make your codpiece,
stuff and sew in place. Work necessary
eyelets to close front and to hold the
codpiece in place — see diagram. If
required, work pairs of eyelets around
the top of your hose to lace hose to
doublet.
If the top fabric is rather flimsy, you may need
to sew reinforcing squares of canvas where the
points for the codpiece are to go.
Simple upper hose with fancy bits — construction notes
Fancy hose differ from simple hose in having
decoration around the lower part of the leg.
• You need a good, well
felted wool for the method
described here. If your
fabric frays a lot, even when
cut on the bias, you should
use the method described
under the short, short fancy
hose on page 8.
They are therefore basically made up in the same
way as the plain knee length hose but the top
fabric is slashed and paned in a variety of ways.
This can be done in the same way as the short
posh fancy hose beloved of the upper classes
which I am going to describe next. Or you can
draft extra into your top fabric, as shown in the
diagram.
to be sewn onto the foundation layer to give the
slashed panes. Cut all the panes using a scalpel
knife or a rotary cutter. Pin the top fabric onto
your foundation from the top down to the first
set of panes. Pin along the top of the Danes.
Waist edge
Flat tack all this part.
Top fabric
Either way you must have a foundation layer that
Fancy lining
is the length you want the finished hose to be.
Tuck the slashed material
Draft a fancy lining piece for the lower leg from into folds and sew in place
the trouser pattern you already have, and flat tack Position the bottom of the panes where the
second row of tacks is on your foundation layer.
this onto the lower part of the leg. Tack parallel
Pin and stitch in place. Repeat down the leg if
lines of stitches on it to represent the top and
• You should always
there is more than one row of slashes. Cut off
bottom of the panes you have drafted in. Take
decorate your legs on the
the seam allowance along the part forming the
your new top-fabric trouser draft and cut it out
flat i.e. put all the puff etc
on before you sew up the
from a good felted wool on the bias. Mark all the panes where you can leave the seam unsewn.
seams.
seam lines and the lines where the top fabric has
When all the panes are
in position, check that
How to get your
panes drafted into
they are still lining up
the top fabric
successfully along the
Bias
under leg seam. Either
machine stitch along the
Cut the pattern where the sewing lines will ultimately go.
top and bottom of each
Check the line
row of slashes and cover up before sewing
with braid or hand stitch the inside leg
seam
in place.
Spread out the pattern pieces.
Smooth out the side seam and cut
slashes with a scalpel
Page 6 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
Sew up the under leg seam and then, sewing the
legs together, finish off as above.
Codpieces
Lining
These started as triangular flaps with the
very practical purpose of covering the gap
at the front of men’s hose. By this time,
whilst they are still practical, they have
elements of fun and fashion in them. They
are nearly always padded and they can
be decorated as well. There are different
degrees of umph according to your age
and rank but the method of construction
re-mains fairly similar. First we cut out the
basic pattern for both the front and the
lining, (these can be both the same fabric
or they can be different). We may mount
the front fabric to a foundation layer and
we may decorate this layer if appropriate.
Next we sew up the central seam of both
the Lining and the front part and we sew
the two parts together all round the edge
leaving just enough to turn the thing right
side out. We put enough stuffing in the
codpiece to make a firm and suitable shape.
It may be necessary to push all the stuffing
into the front prominence and to stitch
both layers together around this bit to keep
the stuffing in place.
Top Fabric
Alternative front
seams
Stab
through to
the lining
Experimentation is
essential here
• Codpieces are bizarre
enough - do not make
them larger than your
costume demands.
Too big and they don’t
work. Note — size isn’t
everything.
Stuff with
kapok
You may find it
easier to sew extra
little gussets in
below the cod-piece
• Always make your
codpieces out of the
same fabric as the rest
of your hose.
• If you don’t want one,
wear a full jerkin
Very short, very fancy hose
Style note — When these are fully lined, puffed and
paned, these are very fancy indeed and are only seen on the
cream of society. With less puff they can be worn by upper
middle class.
Fabrics required — Velvet or similar for your top fabric plus
any braids or other decoration as appropriate; cotton or drill
foundation material; wadding for behind the panes; jolly
contrast material, ditto; canvas for the panes, copydex and
lining, ditto; lining for the hose themselves.
Pattern pieces — see diagram
Making your pattern: Take your basic draft (with lower
edge at mid-thigh) and make a toile. Try on and modify it
until you are satisfied with the fit. When happy take toile
to pieces again and mark any alterations on your basic
draft. Make a copy of the original draft (incorporating any
alterations you have made) and widen out the bottom edge
to get rid of the very angled inside leg seams. Rule a line
parallel to the seat line and 2.5-5cm (1-2”) above it. Cut and
Line where the panes start
but you can pane to the
waist
label the upper piece pattern for undecorated part. Take the
lower part of the pattern and use it to draft your pattern
for the fancy lining seen under the panes, and for the panes
themselves. Divide the lower part of the pattern into 6-8
parallel strips between 5-7.5cm (2-3”) wide. Add 2.5-5cm
d-2”) extra to the length of the strips and label them’Pane
A’,’B’,’C’,’D’ etc. Pin the lengthened pane patterns onto a
fresh piece of paper, spreading them apart slightly if you
are of a restrained nature and more if not. Add extra to
the top and bottom if you are truly extrovert and label the
resulting pattern ‘ pattern for fancy lining’.Cutting out —
cut out the basic pattern shape from lining and foundation
materials — mark the line representing the top of the panes
on the foundation layer. Cut the top part of the hose out in
top fabric using the pattern marked ‘pattern for undecorated
part’. Cut pane patterns out in canvas, without added seam
allowance, and then cut out again in top fabric and lining with
seam allowances. Cut out fancy lining from the lining pattern.
Cut out wadding from the basic draft as required — see
diagram
Pattern for the undecorated
part
Tack the top
fabric on the
sewing lines
Sew on the
wadding here
Original length
& extra length
Pattern for lining
No padding is
needed in part
between the legs
Don’t add too
much wadding
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 7
Making up: Tack the undecorated
part of your top fabric onto the
foundation layer, tack through the
line representing the top of your
puff, and tack your wadding in place
on the lower part of the foundation
layer. Make your panes (see also the
other notes): Take the canvas strip
Lining
can
be seen
between
panes
Lining
and encase each in top fabric and lining. Sew
each pane face down (and at this point upside
down) onto the foundation layer - along the
line marked through from the foundation layer.
Gather the top edge of your lining and sew
that down face down, upside down onto the
same line.
Pane
Sew all the
layers here
These hose
are not decorated and are
quite smart
Bottom of leg
Foundation
Top fabric
Waist
Sew up the inside leg seam of the lining. Then
bring down this lining (gathering the bottom
edge, if necessary) and the panes and sew both
down firmly along the bot-tom edge. Finally sew
the inside leg seam of the whole leg. Sew the legs
together, leaving the centre front seam open 15–
20 cm (6–8”) from the top. Make up the proper
lining and sew in place. Sew on the leg bands.
Finish the top and front as before.
Special decorative features: Some slashing and braiding
but they haven’t gone over the top yet.
Long hose
Pin onto tape around
the waist
Facing includes ease
Bum
bit
Bum
bit
Bare footed hose
(hem bottom edge)
Main leg piece
Stirrup hose
(form strap)
The main
pieces — sew
BX to B’X’
Foot pattern pieces
Footed hose
Cut slit
at centre
front
Vamp
Sole
Main pattern pieces
• You might need
to sew extra bits
onto your calico
to get a piece big
enough.
• A stapler is useful
here, because the
staples will not
come out easily (or
damage you) when
you try to take the
calico log off your
own.
Style notes: Not stylish in the least! If you are still
wearing you are really quite far down the social
scale - but they look good.
Materials required; Large piece of calieo to drape
over the leg, 1m x 1m (40” x 40”); safety pins or
stapler; chalk or pencil; wool cloth with plenty of
stretch on the bias.
Pattern pieces: Each leg is made from one large
piece of cloth with some extra pieces at the foot
and an extra piece fitted in on your seat to give
greater cane; this enables you to move and work
more cosily. The garment must be made with the
main pieces cut on the cross or bias, because that
provides the greatest amount of stretch or give.
These really do look very fetching when they fit
properly. Drafting the pattern: Strip down lo your
Page 8 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
Keep bias of cloth parallel to front of leg
Add ease
Th
ed
of
ire
cti
fab th
on
e
ric w
ea
ve
of
the
Undecorated part
Cutting your toile
Note the relation of
the hose to the leg
braies and get a friend to help you! You are going
to work on one side of your body only. Take the
piece of calico and mark a line from one corner to
the other. Place this line BO that it lies parallel to
the front of your leg from your waist to the top of
your foot. Tie a piece of tape around your waist, and
attach the material to this - Bee diagram.
Wrap the material round your leg. You will have to
cut some off the material away at the front to be
able to gel it through to the back. Cut a curving line
down from the GF waist, between the legs. Get your
helper to pin the material down the centre back of
your leg from thigh to ankle. Continue the line of
this back seam up to the waist on the outer part off
the calico, but cut the inner piece off along the
bottom of your buttock (choose a close friend).
Cut off all the excess material down the back
seam, and trim off extra material at floor level at the back of
the foot. Make two cuts parallel to the back seam either side of
the foot, in line with and up to the ankle bone. The front piece
of fabric will now be able to lie flat on the foot. You can either
finish the hose with a stirrup or make foot pieces (as shown in
the diagram). The next piece you require covers the area from
your centre back to your back seam, down across the buttock
to where your inner leg pattern finishes and below the cheek of
your buttock through to the crotch. I suggest that you look at
the pattern piece — see diagram — and cut out approximately
the right shape. Pin it in place until you get a good fit, and then
mark your pinning line with soft pencil. Try taking the calico
leg off - there should be enough stretch in the fabric to do that.
Mark the line exactly where the pins or staples went. For the
cod-piece pattern and the facings see previous section.
Cutting out and fitting: Because our fabrics are not a» stretchy
as those woven specially for the task, add a little ease all the way
down the back seam by drawing a line parallel to the back seam
and 0.6cm (¼”) outside it. Add more length to the body part of
Nether hose
the hose by copying off the upper part of the pattern. Draw
a line parallel to the waist seam at the level of the crotch. Cut
along this line and spread it apart by 4cm (1½”). Treat the
smaller back piece in the same way. Finally raise the point X
by 1” (2.5cm) and re-draw the curve.
Construction notes: Cut out the main pieces in wool,
positioning them so that the long axes are on the bias. Sew
the bum-pieces onto each leg. Sew up the back leg seams.
Sew the body seam from centre back to the end of the
bum piece. Sew on the feet pieces or finish off the stirrup.
Finish the top and front with facings drafted from the leg
piece after the bum piece has been sewn on. Close with pair
of points at waist and 7.5cm (3”) below. Sew on codpiece
(simple, not very rampant model) and sew eyelets for
pointing this closed. Sew pairs of eyelets all the way round
the top, and match to similar holes round the bottom of
the doublet.
Special decorative features: Not applicable - if you were of a
fancy turn of mind you would not be wearing long hose.
tt
he
the in
p
bia iec
s eo
n
Materials required: woven wool fabric (not
knitted) with plenty of stretch when pulled on
the bias.
ma
Cu
Style notes: unless well fitting these cannot
be called stylish, although they can be called
authentic.
Pattern pieces: As in the pattern.
Drafting the pattern: Best done actually by
draping scrap material (also cut on the bias)
directly on the leg. Gut the rough shape from
the pattern and then pin or staple sides together
down back leg seam. (See long hose for more
detail). Cut foot pieces or stirrup approximately
from the pattern. Tack-up and fit.
Cutting out and fitting: When you are happy with
the draft toile, cut your hose out in your wool.
Make the top of your hose at least 10cm (4”)
above the bottom edge of your upper hose.
Gaiters or leggings
Materials required: wool or sacking plus fastenings
as appropriate, Style notes: Various styles according
to need — see drawings.
Drafting the pattern, cutting out and construction
depends on the style.
Boots or shoes
Although some people go barefooted, shoes are
really important — there are suppliers of these
and also notes about how you can make them.
Labourers generally wear boots as do several
posers around the place but the former are ankle
boots (called startups) and the latter can go
almost up to the armpits — really rare please...
Heel
Sole side or
‘quarter’
Not so much
gaiters as shin
protectors
• Stockings - Only for the
poshest, richest folk like
the late king! Most were
still wearing cloth.
Vamp on
front of
foot
Construction notes: Sew up the seam
and try on for fit — you may find
that the wool is considerably more
stretchy than the toile cloth. Sew all
the foot pieces together, foot to leg.
Finish off top edge either with casing
for drawstring or with some means of
attaching to the upper hose.
Simple
gaiters
• Ordinary lower half
hose as worn with
ordinary lower or middle
class hose.
Gaiter
with patten
(wooden
sole?)
• The gentry use suspender belts...but sewing
the hose onto the upper
hose also works
• Probably more important in winter but if you
job requires them these
would be nice accessories
to have.
Shoes and boots are generally black but there
are lighter shoes especially for dancing and
these may have protective overshoes not unlike
the gaitered pattens above. Good shoes do a
lot for you comfort, well being and authenticity!
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 9
Doublets — sleeveless, laced-in sleeves, sewn-in sleeve & fancy sleeves
The doublet is the basic upper garment for
all men . It is usually close fitting and sleeved.
Sleeveless variants were called pourpoints earlier,
but I think this usage is no longer common. 1
will start with this sleeveless number, then talk
about the normal sleeved version. and finally I
shall tell you how the posher version, worn by
middle and upper class folk differs from it. Note
— there is a considerable overlap at this period
between the peasant doublet and the peasant
jacket, and you can have one or the other or
both. The difference seems to be whether or
not you take it off readily. From a pattern and
construction point of view, there is considerable
overlap between the upper class doublet and the
jerkin.
Garment type: the sleeveless doublet or
pourpoint
Body front
Construction notes: Flat tack your foundation
layer to your top fabric. Sew up the side seams of
Materials required: top fabric — usually firmish
the top fabric/foundation body and of the lining
wool or a linen/cotton union, foundation
body. Turn in the centre front seam allowances,
material (essential: brough. which is a linen/
of both the top fabric and lining, having decided
cotlton mix, or drill are suitable) lining, fastening
whether you need overlap at the front, and if
-usually prints.
»o how much. Pin the two layers right side to
right side along seams and around openings. Sew
Style notes: very basic, body fitting garment that
the lining to the top fabric around the neck and
is often, but not always, the same colour as the
armhole openings. Snip around any curves - see
hose.
diagram -and turn right side out. Iron edge with
Pattern pieces: front, back and (usually) skirt
damp cloth. Sew the shoulder seams of the top
pieces - see diagram.
fabric only along the actual sewing line. Press and
cut away any excess material that will get in the
way of the next bit. (Don’t cut too much or your
nice garment will fall to pieces - leave at least
0.7cm (½”)). Turn in the seam allowances of the
Folf
lining (you can trim away excess here, too) and
Selvage
hand stitch down in place to cover all raw edges.
Fold or
Sew skirt side seams of both top fabric and
seam
lining. Bag out, and sew onto bottom of body.
Turn in seam allowance of lining and sew down
over ironed-up raw edges of sewn-on skirt. Slip
Body Back
stitch the lining to the top fabric down the centre
front edge. You can cover up several difficult bits
this way. Work eyelet holes or button holes down
Bagging out to
the centre front as appropriate.
finish off neck
& arm holes
Front and back skirts can
be large or small
• Try to keep all
your pieces so
that the fabric,
when made up,
runs up and down
your body in the
direction it came
off the loom.
Cutting out and fitting: Cut out in foundation
material with suitable seam allowances including
a generous amount of material on the front edge,
which should be straight. Centre back may be
either a seam (if curves here will help the fit —
this is especially important if you have prominant
shoulder blades) or not. If there is no seam,
place the pattern piece tight up to the centre-fold
of your material. Cut out skirt pieces (if present)
from the foundation material. Sew up side seam,
back seam (if present) try on. Sew skirt pieces
together and check against bottom of doublet. If
all fits well, undo your sewing lines. Mark them
all on the wrong side of the foundation garment
and iron. Put the foundation pieces right side
down onto your top fabric and cut out. Cut out
all the pieces in lining material.
Drafting the pattern: Use the basic body shape
obtained by draping (see other notes). Adapt the
basic shape to suit your style requirements. How
much do you require for overlap at the front?
Will it have a high neck, a low neck, or a V-neck
(rare at this date)? Are you going to lace on the
sleeves (see next garment type)? If so extend the
upper part of the arm hole, as in the diagram, to
give you room to work your lacings. It is often
easiest to use scrap fabric to get your skirts
sorted out — see diagram.
Page 10 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
Special decorative features: Very few at the
moment since neither padded rolls, wings or tabs
have yet come in. But they will, and you may like
to reserve some of your fabric for later years.
Snip around the
curves to prevent the
bodged look
Trim away bulk and catch
seams down ... it really doe
help.
Garment type: the doublet, with lacedor sewn-in sleeves.
Materials required: top fabric, foundation
material (essential: brough, a linen/cotton mix,
or drill suitable), lining, fastening -usually points.
Laced in/on sleeves may use a different top
fabric. Reinforcing tape for laced-in sleeves,
canvas stiffening where appropriate.
Style notes: fairly body-fitting garment, often
(but not always) the same colour as the hose. May
have contrasting sleeves. Skirts can be quite long
and stiff.
Pattern pieces: Front, back and (as a rule) skirt
pieces, usually draped on the body, plus the basic
sleeve pattern — see diagram.
foundation layer and iron. Put the foundation
pieces right side down onto your top fabric
and cut out. (Try to keep all your pieces so
that the fabric, when made up, runs up and
down your body in the direction it came off
the loom). Cut out all the pieces in lining
material. Sleeves require extra on the sleeve
head, if they are going to be laced in, and they
may need extra width if they are being sewn
in, Redraw your pattern (cut and spread if
necessary) and use new draft for your sleeve.
Make up a toile of your sleeve for fit. When
you are happy, cut out in top fabric and lining,
(add allowance along the top edge of the
lining sleeve, if the sleeve is to be sewn in).
Construction notes: Flat tack your found-ation
Sleeve head add on
extra if lacing in
your sleeves
Basic sleeve
Pattern back
You can cut
armhole quite
deep especially
if peasent.
Pattern
front with
various
overlaps
Full sleeves
Skirt pattern
Puffed upper sleeve
Drafting the pattern: Use the basic body
obtained by draping. Adapt the basic shape to
suit your style requirements. You also need to
extend the neck line for collar pieces, or draft
separate ones. It is easiest to use scrap fabric to
get your skirts and your collar sorted out. Draft
the basic sleeve pattern (see the making notes).
Cutting out and fitting: Largely as with the
previous number. Cut out the skirt pieces (if
present) from the foundation material. Cut out
the front pieces in canvas, if being used, but
without any seam allowances. Sew the canvas
to the foundation layer on the wrong side. Use
parallel rows of machine or hand stitching and
sew all rows of stitching from the top of the
garment to the bottom. Sew down canvas all
round the edge. Sew up side, back (if present)
and shoulder seams and try on. Sew skirt pieces
together and cheek against the bottom of
the doublet. If all fits well, undo your sewing
lines. Mark them all on the wrong side of the
layer to yo’ur top fabric. Sew up the side seams
and (but only if you are sewing in your sleeves)
the shoulder seams of the top fabric/foundation
body and of the lining body. The method varies
according to whether or not the sleeves lace in.
If lacing your sleeves in, sew tape just onto the
foundation layer over the top of your armhole
and just inside the sewing line. Turn in the centre
front seam allowances of both the top fabric
and lining, having decided whether you need
overlap at the front (and if so, how much).
Pin the two layers right side to right side along
around openings. Sew the lining to the top fabric
around the neck armhole openings. Snip around
any curves — see previous garment — and turn
right side out. Iron edge with damp cloth. Sew
the shoulder seams of the top layer only along
the actual sewing line. Press and cut away any
material that will get in the way of the next bit.
(Don’t cut too much or your nice garment will
fall to pieces — leave at least 0.7cm (¼”)). Turn
I haven’t dealt with but you
can have a side closing doublet
which will need som sharp
thinking about how you cut the
pattern pieces
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 11
Laced-in sleeves —
reinforce the armhole
with tape and canvas
Drill
Extend or reinforce sleeve
head (easiest to do on the
lining)
in the seam allowances of the lining
(You can trim away excess here too) and
hand stitch down in place to cover all
raw edges.
If sewing sleeves in, sew up shoulder (this has
already been above). Turn in the centre front
seam allowances of both the top fabric and
lining, having decided whether you need any
over-lap at the front,
and, if so, how much.
Pin the two layers
right side to right
side along around
openings. Sew the
lining to the top fabric
around the neck
Doublets
openings only. Snip
still usually
around any curves &
close right
over left
turn right out. Tack
top fabric and lining
Pleat or gather most
together round the
fullness between
armhole. Sew skirt
shoulder head and
the back pitch point
side seams of both
top fabric and lining.
Bag out and sew onto bottom of body. Turn in
seam allowance of lining, and sew down over
ironed-up raw edges of sewn-on skirt. Slip stitch
lining to the top fabric down the centre front,
edge. You can cover up several difficult bits this
way. Work eyelet holes or button holes down the
centre front as appropriate. Buttons and button
holes are more suitable for most.
Sleeves: Sew up arm seams as far as any opening
on both top fabric and lining. Sew both together
around the wrist opening. Trim away excess and
turn right side out. If lacing the sleeve in, cut a
shaped piece of foundation material to match
the sleeve head and sew this to the wrong side of
the lining - see diagram. Turn seam allowances
in, and hand sew along the top edge using strong
thread. If sewing the sleeve in, gather or pleat
any fullness in the top fabric of sleeve head, and
then, turning right side out, sew into armhole
(match up pitch points etc). Sew round the
armhole twice. Trim away any excess material.
Bring up the lining and turn in seam allowances.
Slip stitch in place to cover raw edges around
armhole.
Special decorative features: For most this is a
totally undecorated garment. Your level in society
would only be marked by the cloth you chose to
use. Upper class doublets were probably the only
ones to be braided.
Posh doublets
Garment type: the gentry doublet with laced-in
sleeves.
Materials required: Luscious top fabric and
decorations — otherwise, as before.
Style notes: As before but waist starting to drop
at the front. Skirts are usually very stiff. Contrast
sleeves are very common.
Pattern pieces: — see the diagram
Drafting the pattern and making up: as on
previous pages.
Modified front
This doublet is well fitting, firm and dips at the
front but you can draft it from you basic toile and
build your jerkin pattern from it.
Page 12 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
Front further
modified to
create a jerkin
pattern
Jerkins, gowns etc.
For most the doublet will be sufficient but there
are a whole range of outer garments worn over
this for warmth, protection or just for showing
off. Because it is so closely based on the doublet,
I am starting this time with the newest poshest
form — the well fitting, well slashed jerkin.
Garment type: the new style gentry
jerkin with small or virtually no sleeves.
The new
style jerkin
Vertical slashing
possibly interspersed
with bands of different slashing are very
characteristic of this
period.
Materials required: Luscious top fabric — very
often leather. Jerkins need a full range of support
fabrics and trims etc. Small padded sleeves
(where present) need wadding.
• The fuller-skirted
jerkins are still to be seen.
There is also some overlap with gowns (which
I take generally to be
unwaisted).
Style notes: Body follows the line of the doublet
which is worn underneath. Skirts and sleeves are
short or non-existent. The jerkin may be slashed
through to show a fancy doublet underneath. It
may also fasten under the left arm.
Pattern pieces: — see diagram
Drafting pattern and making up: Base your
pattern pieces on your doublet pattern. Alter the
jerkin pattern where indicated. The construction
is similar to doublets, except that the small
padded sleeves are always- sewn in (instructions
on page 13). Tabs are just appearing on these
garments (see other booklet). Leather jerkins are
possibly the easiest to make because they do not
require any lining etc. You will need a thickish
but pliable leather that can easily be sewn with a
glover’s needle.
The old style
jerkins
CF
CB
To fold
The everyday
jerkin
CB
CF
• It is well worth making
a practice toile from pelmet weight vilene before
you cut into, or even buy,
your leather. (I wish my
brother had done this
before he desecrated my
leather coat although I
am pleased to report that
he recently replaced said
coat!)
Garment type: the everyday jerkin,
without sleeves.
Materials required: Firm top fabric
and contrasting lining.
Style notes: Waisted overgarment
with
full skirt and no sleeves. Can be
worn
by almost everyone.
Pattern pieees: — see diagram.
Drafting the pattern and making
up: as with simpler doublets.
Garment type: Sleeved jerkin with
side fastening.
Knee length
Materials required: Firm top fabric and
contrasting lining.
Skirt pleated or gathered on
• Some problems occur
here with the nomenclature. I am more worried
about you having the
garments than what you
choose to call it. Up to
now, jerkins have had
pleated skirts. About this
date, especially for the
gentry, jerkins start to be
what they still are today
— sleeveless garments
worn for warmth etc.
over normal outer wear.
• By now you should
be getting the hang of
costume making, so
the notes will be much
briefer. What you need
to do is decide whether a
particular garment is appropriate for your station.
Then decide what fabric
and colour you should
have. Finally you need
to decide what sewing
techniques you need, and
can glean from what has
been written before.
• Most of the following
garments are worn on
top of doublets etc. They
do not, therefore, require
as much stiffening as the
doublets did. You can
sew canvas into collars
and along edges if the
garment seems to warrant it.
Style notes: Waisted over-garment with full
skirts. Suitable for scribe or servant. Slightly
smug gear.
Right front
Left
front
Skirt as above
Back
Pattern pieces — see diagram.
Drafting the pattern and making up: as
before.
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 13
Gather
Upper sleeve
Calf or
ankle length
Gather
Even simpler
Lower sleeve
Sleeves may be elongated
with slit to let the arm escape
Construction and pattern as above but note
the central front opening and the generally
full skirts
Ankle length
• These are either posh
or for the professional
man -in other words,
most of you can ignore
them!
Garment type: the schoolboy’s
waisted jerkin, gown or cassock.
Materials required: A fairly sombre
colour, black, grey or darkish blue (not
royal blue).
Style notes: Asimple practical and
usually waisted garment with simple
sleeves and/or possibly oversleeves.
Pattern pieces: — see the diagram
Drafting the pattern and making up:
as on previous pages.
Foundation can be
padded
Garment type: the waisted posh
jerkin with oversleeves.
Materials required: Firm top fabric &
contrasting lining.
Style notes: Waisted overgarment with
full sleeves and large padded sleeves.
Could be worn by very few.
Top sleeve for gown or jerkin
Pattern for
each pleat
Skirt — thigh
length pleated
(known as bases).
Pattern pieces: — see diagram.
shoulder
Collar
and
revere
Drafting the pattern and making up: as
before.
Centre front
left open
Gather to the
back neck
Garment type:
The professional
gown.
Front
Materials required:
Large amounts of
a dark and sombre
fabric.
Garment type: the short posh gown
with large over-sleeves.
• Absolutely de rigeur
if you are having your
picture taken/ limned.
Similar to the jerkin
above except it has a
large collar and reveres
and no waist.
Back
to fold
Materials required: Rich top fabric and
contrasting lining. Much padding & decoration.
Style notes: Very posh, very lavish
Pattern pieces: — see diagram. Drafting the
pattern and making up: as before but plus a fair
degree of copying pattern pieces, cutting them
up and spreading them about.
Page 14 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
This gown is
longer, less
full and less
flamboyant
but can have
a variety
of different
sleeves
Style notes: More or
less the prototype of
the academic gown.
Note: I feel that the
fully pleated backyoked numbers are of
a later date than 1553.
Pattern pieces: - see
diagram.
Drafting the pattern
and making up: as
before.
Coats, jackets, cloaks & mantles
• More clothes for the
working man or boy.
Garment type: Coat
Materials required: Good wool for top fabric
— good as in it looks right and it keeps out the
rain. Lining material and buttons.
Style notes: Not very stylish but very practical.
Pattern pieces: — see diagram.
Drafting the pattern: Based on calico body
shell and the normal sleeve drafts but with generous amounts of ease. Simplest is to take your
kirtle pattern pieces and enlarge Cutting out and
fitting: It really is easiest if you can make the top
fabric and the lining identical. You can then make
the completely reversible jacket which can be
bagged out in full. Even if you do not do this cut
top fabric and lining out at the same stage - it is
just so much easier. Sleeves can be made fuller by
the cut and spread method.
Construction: (1) The quick method — Sew
side and shoulder seams of both layers and place
the body parts together right side to right side.
Ignore the sleeves at this juncture except that
you can tack up the seam allowances and press.
Sew all the way round the opening leaving a gap
down one front edge (where the jacket is straight
and on the grain of the fabric) big enough to I
turn the jacket sleeves and all right sides , out.
Turn jacket out and push sleeves through to their
rightful positions. Hand sew around the bottom
of the sleeves and sew up the bit you left open.
(2) The more conventional method — Sew
body seams up of both top fabric and lining and
sew together around the opening (you can bag
out or you can slip stitch pieces together). Tack
both layers together around the arm-hole and
sew in top fabric sleeve. Either bring up sleeve
lining to finish off or bind of all raw edges with
bias binding. This method has to be used if
your jacket has skirts. Sew side seams of skirt
pieces. Bag out with lining (or slip-stitch lining in
place....). Sew skirts to body and slip stitch body
lining over the waist seam. Voila! Work button
holes down the front and one at wrist if needed.
Turn back shows
lining of a different
colour
Decoration: Apart from buttons, not a lot.
Garment type: Jacket
Style notes: Like a coat but shorter.
CB Fold
Either cut out as ¾ circle
with the neck hole aprroximately neck size. Or cut
out as ½ circle and gather
at the neck (cut much
larger) to produce a wide
enough cone
Fold
Seam
Sew this edge to neck
• Participants are not usually asked to saw off their
legs for the event but
they are asked to get their
clothes right.
You may need to piece
the cloth to get a big
enough piece
Protective gear
Garment type: The cloak or mantle
Materials required: Large amounts of a dark,
sombre and waterproof (well-felted) wool.
Style notes: Hoods appear to be seamed in the
wrong place!
Pattern pieces: - see diagram.
Although many people do go barefooted, shoes
are really important. Equally important are things
that protect you from the wet, the heat and the
sunlight. If you don’t have time to create a clock
or jacket bring a suitable blacket (natural wool
colours are best). If you are in an outstation and
are not used to being out of doors all day, you
will need protection especially on the back of the
neck. Design your headgear with that in mind
or supply yourself with a pinner. Put sunblock
in your 20th century gear. Dads protect your
children!
• It is important with
these garments to
make sure that there
is sufficient fullness
around the shoulders,
If there is not the
garment with always
hang open and very
often it will be less
than comfortable to
wear especially if a
heavy fabric has been
used. I know: I’ve
done it.
Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor– Page 15
Hats and headgear
Shapeless felt
Shapely felt with spoon
Crown — must be large
enough to fit over the top
of your head i.e. diameter
must be at least ear to ear
measurement
Cut one in
cloth and one
in lining
Brim
Felt helmet
• Take it steadily.
• Work from the skin out,
fitting each layer over the
garments that have gone
before.
• Be prepared to take garments to pieces as well as
to assemble them.
• Keep ironing. Decorate
on the flat. Use enough
stiffening.
• Line wherever possible
- it will hide a multitude
of sins. Hide all evidence
of machine stitching
• Don’t spend so much
time on your clothes that
you arrive exhausted and
totally unclued up about
the rest of Tudor life. I
know it happens. — I’ve
done it (far too often).
• Whoever you are, do
try to collect some good
accessories. Things to
talk about, things to
fiddle with or break the
ice with.
• Don’t get too anxious
about all this. Everyone
does manage . . . eventually.
• Be prepared to patch
and repair if necessary.
• Try to make your
clothes in time to sort
out problems before you
come.
3-piece
coif
All men of all ranks can wear flat caps consisting
of a stiffened brim and a larger, softer crown
which is pleated into the inner edge of the
brim. Other hats are found, as well as the coif,
which can be worn under any of the headgear.
Richer men may still be wearing very decorated
bonnets with slightly turned-up brims. Older and
professional men still wear the Thomas Moore
type hat and its variants. Many of the labourers
will have fairly shapeless felt or wool effusions.
You MUST have a hat!
Cut 2 in cloth with seam allowances and one in stiffener without
seam allowance.
Cut shape out four
times — make up
2 caps and use one
to line the other
Cut the top based
on the distance from
forehead to nape
of neck
2-piece coif cna
also be knitted
Garment type: Older style Thos More
hat
Materials required: Firm wool, stiffener (card,
canvas, buckram and/or pelmet vilene), lining
Style notes: Often worn with a crown
Pattern pieces: — draft the crown pattern from
¼ head size and the brim from the crown, see
below.
Making up: Sew crown pieces together to create
the crown. Make all the brim pieces double and
stiffen if necessary. Sew to the outer edge of the
crown. Cover all sins with crown lining.
Garment type: Standard flat hat
Materials required: Firm wool, stiffener (card,
canvas, buckram and/or pelmet vilene), lining
Style notes: More fashionable hat but many
variants ... posher, trimmed with narrow brim
Pattern pieces: — see diagram. The hole must
be slightly bigger than head size.
Cut in top
fabric &
lining
Making up: Sew 2 brim pieces together around
outer edge, turn right side out, stuff stiffener
inside the brim. Tack around inner edge and
snip seam allowance. Gather or pleat the outer
edge of the crown onto inner edge of brim.
Cover all sins with lining.
Crown pieces
cut 4 with the
lower edge ¼
head size
Draft brim
to fit —
you can
have one,
two or pieces
to it
Base brim on
the crown pieces.
Cut double and
optionally with
stiffener
Belts, bags etc.
Any other business
Don’t forget the things that make your life bearable. You need somewhere to keep essentials —
car keys, paracetemol, lighter. A small bag that
you can hang from your belt is not easy to lose.
Have a sack that you can keep your tat in. While
you should have everything totally Tudor and
authentic, be prepared for the day you need to
smuggle. Have clothes that can wrap round the
wine box. Have bowls, spoon and mug that can
be seen and have a fixed place to keep a eye on
them. Belts are narrow and have round or rectangular buckles that to not have loose metal rollers.
Bruegel is a good source of ideas.
All that remains now is to say that I hope you
enjoy yourself making your clothes. You haven’t
that long in which to do it. You will need to convince me in May that you are on course for the
proper Tudor look by June/ July.
Page 16 –Men’s costume notes – Mid-Tudor
Rosemary Muntus
Old Mill House
The Causeway
Hitcham Suffolk IP7 7NF
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