AFRICAN TEXTILES
KENTE, ADINKRA & KORHOGO
“Our lives are woven together like the threads on a loom. One thread is very
weak. Threads woven together are strong.”
Grades 3-5 PowerPoint Lesson Plan
OBJECTIVES
HISTORY: Places an artwork in its art historical context.
Students will examine the use of textiles to express ideas, beliefs or stories
created by West African peoples.
CRITICISM: Informed talk about art.
Students will be able to identify the use of line that creates patterns in Adinkra
cloth and discuss the symbolism of the designs used.
AESTHETICS: Questions the nature, value and beauty of art.
Students will discuss the value of textiles as art even though they are created to
be worn.
PRODUCTION: Creating art.
Students will create an Africa-inspired textile using line to create pattern.
VOCABULARY
Note to volunteers The vocabulary words will be in bold italics throughout the
lesson. They will be defined within the text of the lesson and do not need to be
presented separately. The definitions included under this section of the lesson
are very detailed and intended for adults.
Line: the path of a moving dot.
Pattern: the repeated placement of a basic unit, called a motif (this could be
created with a shape, line, texture, or color). In general, pattern has two main
functions in art and design; it provides visual enrichment and interest, and it
helps unify a composition or an area of a composition.
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Symbol: a design or object, which represents an idea, concept, or product.
Textile: woven fabric or cloth.
INTRODUCTION
Can anyone tell me what a proverb is? There are some that you may have heard
before like, “You can’t judge a book by its cover” or “The early bird catches the
worm”. Can you think of any others? How about – “Better late than never.”
“Better safe than sorry.” “Finders keepers, losers weepers.”
But what do proverbs really mean? Let’s think about “You can’t judge a book by
its cover”.
Can you tell whether or not the story in a book is good just by looking at the
cover? (No.) You have to open it up and read it. Proverbs are wise sayings that
try to teach us something. But they also mean more than they say. Judging a
book by its cover also means you cannot always tell about people or things just
by the way they look. You have to get to know them to find out about them before
you decide if you like them or not.
The people who live in West Africa also have their own proverbs and stories that
they have told for hundreds of years. Not only that, but they use symbols that
have their own special meanings just like proverbs. They use these symbols to
decorate household objects, their clothes, buses and trucks, up above doorways,
or just about anywhere you look. The textiles or fabrics they make are also full of
symbols. People all over Africa make textiles. We are going to learn about just
three different kinds of textiles made by people living West Africa.
HISTORY
KENTE CLOTH, SUB CHIEF WEARING KENTE ROBE, GHANA 1972
The Asante (ah-SAHn-tay) people who live in Ghana have always shared ideas,
things they believe in, and messages through the designs in their clothing. They
make two common types of textiles. This first one we are going to see today is
called Kente cloth. Say ‘Kente’ with me. Repeat KEN–tay. This is a photograph of
a chief who is wearing a robe made of Kente cloth.
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STRIPS OF KENTE CLOTH BEING WOVEN
Kente cloth is a brightly woven textile with many different striped patterns. It is
woven in narrow strips (3 ½” wide) by the men in the village and then sewn
together to create a large cloth.
If we were to run our hands over this woven textile we would be able to feel its
texture. Who can tell me what texture means? (Texture is the way things feel
when you touch them.)
STRIPS OF KENTE CLOTH BEING SEWN TOGETHER
Kente cloth used to be worn only by the royal family members of the tribe. It was
a symbol of the royal family. Symbols are designs that have a meaning
attached to them. We have symbols in our culture too.
1. What do you think of when you see a place to eat with two golden arches?
(McDonalds.)
2. If you see a “swoosh” on a pair of shoes or tee shirt what does it stand
for? (Nike.)
3. What does a red octagon shaped sign mean? (Stop.)
4. Can you think of any other symbols? (Male and female figures for
restrooms, wheelchair for handicap accessibility, multicolored apple for
apple computers, walk and wait symbols in a crosswalk, etc.)
Today, Kente cloth may be worn by any of the people. It is expensive and usually
saved for special occasions like weddings, festivals and ceremonies. You can
see the narrow strips of fabric being sewn together in this photograph.
FYI The information contained in a box in this lesson is added for the adult volunteer’s
enrichment. Generally, the information is not intended for inclusion in the classroom
presentation. However, if appropriate, you may wish to present some of this information to the
students.
Adinkra symbols are named after an Ivory Coast king who suffered a dismal fate in the early
th
19 century. According to legend, King Adinkra made a replica of the sacred Golden Stool, the
seat of power, which served as a thone for Ashanti royalty. The Golden Stool, which had
miraculously descended from the sky, was carved with intricate symbols and patterns. King
Adinkra was captured and beheaded by the Ashanti for his sacrilege, and the craftspeople
were later inspired to copy the symbols from the Golden Stool and from King Adinkra’s royal
garments onto fabric.
ELDERS AND SUB CHIEF IN ADINKRA STAMPED CLOTH ROBES 1972
The second kind of textile made by the Asante (ah-SAHN-tay) people is called
Adinkra. Say “Adinkra” with me. The people in this picture are important rulers in
their village and are wearing Adinkra stamped robes. The symbols and designs
in the textiles remind the people of stories or ideas, which have special meaning.
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If the Asante king wanted to show he was not afraid of anything he would choose
a fern leaf design or symbol for his clothing. For the Asante, the fern is a
symbol of courage.
ADINKRA CLOTH WITH CALABASH STAMPS 1969
Adinkra cloth is woven into long strips and sometimes it is dyed different colors. It
is then stretched onto a printing board. The long straight lines are made by
dipping a comb into dye and dragging it to make long lines. Young men stamp
the symbols on the cloth filling each rectangle with repeats of the same shapes
and lines that create patterns. The strips are then sewn together with brightly
colored thread in a repeated pattern. Where can you see repeated shapes or
lines that create patterns in this textile? (The lines create patterns. The lines
of the crosses, “apples”, waves and swirls all create different patterns.)
ADINKRA CLOTH FROM KUMASI, HOPE DESIGN WITH STAMP
The stamps used to print the designs are made from calabash. Calabash is a
kind of gourd, like a pumpkin or watermelon with a thick hard shell. The design is
carved out a piece of the shell and a stick is added for a handle. Each carved
symbol has its own meaning.
The symbol on this stamp means “welcome.” There are too many symbols to
name but they stand for things like strength, hope, two good friends, good fortune
and truth. Young women make the ink from the bark of a tree (Badie tree) and
the textile is stamped with the design. It is put out in the sun to dry.
CRITICISM
ADINKRA CLOTH, FROM KUMASI, BARK BASED DYED COTTON
This is Adinkra cloth created by the Asante people. Adinkra means “saying goodbye to one another when parting.” The textile was traditionally worn at funerals.
Today Adinkra cloth is worn for many occasions. Take a minute to look for
shapes and lines that have been repeated in this textile to create patterns.
Sensory Properties: What do you see?
1. What types of lines can you see in this textile? (Mostly straight, vary in
width, some curved lines.)
2. What shapes do the lines create? (Crosses, diamonds, rectangles,
“apples”, swirls, etc.)
3. Shapes can usually be described one of two ways. Either they are mostly
geometric like circles, squares, rectangles or diamonds, or they are
organic shapes. Organic shapes are irregular, curving, random shapes
like those found in nature – the shape a puddle of spilt milk makes is an
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organic shape. Would you say the shapes and lines in this design are
mostly geometric or organic? (Geometric.)
Formal Properties: How is it arranged?
1. Repeated shapes or lines in an artwork create patterns. Show where you
see repeated shapes or lines that make patterns. (Patterns of lines,
diamonds, cross-hatchings, swirls, “apples”, waves, etc.)
2. How are the patterns arranged? Are the shapes spaced the same, are
they in rows or irregular, are they different from one another or alike? (In
rows of rectangles or blocks.)
Technical Properties: What media, tools and techniques were used?
1. What materials and tools do you think were used to create this Adinkra
cloth? (Cotton fabric, dye or ink, stamps, combs for straight lines, sewing
needles, loom to make the cloth.)
Expressive Properties: What mood or idea does it express?
1. The beautiful textiles of Africa originated for ceremonies and rituals of
everyday life. Artists in a village all work together to produce these
textiles - each with their own job to do. These skills have been handed
down from generation to generation.
The people of one village have said:
“Our lives are woven together like the threads on a loom.
One thread is very weak.
Threads woven together are strong.”
What do you think they mean by this?
AESTHETIC
Note to volunteers These questions are meant to be open-ended; there is no
right or wrong answer.
Do you think that textiles like this can be called art when they are made to be
worn as clothing? Why or why not?
HISTORY (cont.)
KORHOGO CLOTH 20TH CENTURY
This next textile is made by the Senufo people who live in the north part of the
Ivory Coast. These people are farmers and strongly believe in invisible spirits
hidden in nature. They spin and weave their own cloth, which they decorate with
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pictures of the animal spirits. It is called Korhogo cloth. Say that with me.
“Korhogo cloth”.
20TH CENTURY
The artist who makes this cloth draws an outline of an animal with a knife that
has been dipped in dye. (Dye is like a permanent ink). He will then trace back
over it to make the lines darker and bolder. The designs are usually birds,
snakes, fish, frogs, crocodiles or turtles. Each animal holds a special meaning to
the people. Geometric shapes and lines are used to decorate the animals.
Geometric shapes would be shapes like squares, circles, triangles and
diamonds.
KORHOGO CLOTH
KORHOGO CLOTH 20TH CENTURY
A long time ago these designs might have been an ancient language, but not any
longer. They are symbols, communicating messages through the drawings.
Some may even represent a story or proverb. (Remember a proverb is a saying
that tries to teach us something like, ‘the early bird catches the worm’.)
This cloth was traditionally made into clothes for hunting or ceremonies. The
people believe their drawings have special meaning and help to protect them and
bring them good luck.
There are hundreds of symbols used to make Adinkra and Korhogo cloth, each
having a special meaning. The beautiful textiles of Africa were first made for
ceremonies and rituals but today are being worn by people for many different
occasions.
PRODUCTION
Korhogo Cloth by the Senufo People
Criteria:
Students will create an animal drawing using line to create patterns in the style
of Korhogo cloth.
Materials:
9” x 12” piece of cloth for each student (heavy weight paper may also be used)
Animal stencils (frog, lizard, bird, snake, turtle)
Sharpie black markers – fine and thick tip, at least one per student
Acrylic washes – magenta, teal, yellow, in plastic pop bottle or other container
Small plastic paint cups for wash
Watercolor or sponge brushes – two per color
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Tape and mat board if taping fabric down to work
Pre-Production:
1. Cut fabric with rotary cutter to desired size.
2. Mix washes – heavily dilute paint in water. Store extra in large container.
Instructions:
1. Each student will need: mat board and tape if taping fabric down. Heavier
fabrics may not need taping. (Light weight muslin will need taping). A
sharpie, animal stencil and access to washes and brushes will be needed.
2. Show students a sample of a finished project. Demonstrate how to trace
around the stencil using a sharpie pen, holding the stencil as you trace
around it. Remove the stencil, add eyes, and divide the outline into some
sections if desired.
3. Begin filling the stencil with geometric designs. Students are not limited to
squares, triangles and circles. Show them some examples of possible
shapes, lines, curls, textures (crosshatch, stippling etc.) that can be used
to create patterns.
4. Encourage students to use a variety of line widths. Some of the shapes
can also be filled in. Remind them not to hold their pen in one place too
long, as it will spread and bleed on the fabric.
5. Show students how to fringe and sign their fabric once they are done with
their designs. Pulling only a few threads from each side of the fabric will
give a fringed look.
6. Last, either using a wash station or with washes at each table group,
demonstrate how to apply the wash to the background. The fabric will curl
as it becomes wet, so students need to work fairly quickly while it remains
flat.
7. Lay aside to dry. After dry, pieces will need to be ironed on the back or
flattened under books.
8. Pieces may be mounted on black construction paper if desired or sewn
together as a class textile.
Jill Bogle, 2005
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