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EFFECTS OF COMBED AND CARDED YARN ON WEFT KNITTED FINISHED
FABRIC QUALITY
1
Nasrin Akter, 2Nahida Akter
Department of Textile Engineering
Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology
141-142, Love Road, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka – 1208, Bangladesh
Abstract: Yarn is the fundamental unit of fabric. Yarn contains a lot of properties (variables) which can
affect knitted fabric finished quality. Carded and combed yarns of same count have many different
properties because of different manufacturing process. Combed yarn is of superior quality and carded yarn
is of inferior quality. The main purpose of this paper is to find out or investigate carded and combed yarn
effect on knitted fabric finished quality such as GSM, Shrinkage, Spirality, Resistance of Pilling and Color
fastness properties.
Keywords: Combed, Carded, Single jersey, Rib, Interlock, GSM, Spirality, Shrinkage, Color fastness etc.
I.
INTRODUCTION
Yarns are the raw materials manipulated during knitting [2].An experienced knitter will describe many yarn
properties and knitting variable, all of which, from his experience, affect the characteristics of knitted
fabrics. Any of these he may find it necessary to adjust or control in order to obtain a finished fabric of the
required physical properties [6]. The main yarn properties are yarn count and yarn twist. Both are of prime
importance in the design of textile structures and, to a large extent, they govern the appearance and
behavior of the various types of yarns and fabrics [1]. Yarn Count is the numerical expression of fineness.
According to “Textile Institute” the number indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of
yarn is called count [1]. Generally combed yarn strength is higher than carded yarn of the same count [3].
Yarn twist is the spiral turns given to the yarn in order to hold constituent fibres threads together. Highly
twisted yarn is “Lively” and tends to twist upon it and produce “Snarls” fabrics produces from highly
twisted yarns will possess a lively handle. An increase in the amount of twist produces an increase in the
yarn strength, if yarn strength is increase, the fabric strength will be increased [1]. Normally combed yarns
are stronger, less hairy, more uniform and more lustrous than carded yarns [4]. Knit fabric strength is
depends upon yarn strength and stitch length. Fabric quality means different properties of finished fabric
which depends on yarn properties and fabrics construction [2]. The properties which are important for
knitted fabric and maintained in the industries from grey stage to finished stage are GSM, dimensional
stability, Resistance of pilling and color fastness properties. In this research, these fabric properties were
compared after finishing for a same count carded and combed yarn and the possibility of uses carded yarn
in place of combed yarn was analyzed. Carded yarn production process is easier than combed yarn
production process and carded yarn is also cheaper than combed yarn [3].
II.
SAMPLE PREPARATION
Same count of combed and carded yarn was collected from spinning mill considering other properties.
Yarn evenness was tested by Premier 9000 (Hairiness, CV%, Um%, Thick place, Thin place, Neps etc).
Collected 26 Ne carded and combed yarn for producing single jersey fabric. 28 Ne and 30 Ne carded and
combed yarn was taken for producing rib and interlock structure fabric. Knitting machine parameters such
as stitch length, number of feeders, take-down tension and cam arrangement were individually set for single
jersey, rib and interlock structure fabric. Same structure fabrics were produced in same knitting parameters
in same machine by using same count carded and combed yarn. Here 2.67mm stitch length was used for
producing single jersey fabric. Two single jersey specimens were found with different grey GSM. The
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samples were delivered for dyeing after measuring grey GSM. Dyeing process was done in same bath in
same dyeing condition and same dyeing recipe for comparing finished fabric properties. Samples were
finished in same procedure and same finishing parameters after completing dyeing and obtained two
samples with different finished GSM. Then rib and interlock structure fabric were produced by using
2.52mm and 1.8mm stitch length, in rib knitting machine and interlock knitting machine. Equal knitting
parameters were used for carded and combed yarn of same count (individual for rib and interlock
structure). As a result four samples were obtained of rib and interlock structure. Then the samples were
dyeing in equal dyeing condition and same bath in same dyeing recipe (individual for rib and interlock
fabric). Final samples were found for rib and interlock structure after finishing (in same finishing
parameter, individual for rib and interlock).
III.
EXPERIMENTAL
Knitting requires a relatively fine, smooth, strong yarn with good elastic recovery properties. The carded
yarn is particularly used for knitwear, underwear and socks and combed yarn is used for underwear,
sportswear and socks. Four primary structures-Plain, Rib, Interlock and Purl are the base structures from
which all weft knitted fabrics and garments are derived [2]. In this work study single jersey (Plain), rib and
interlock structure fabric were produced by using same count carded and combed yarn. A same count
carded and combed yarns have many different properties which influence the fabric quality. Here this yarn
effect was observed on fabric physical properties like GSM, shrinkage, spirality and fabric pilling
resistance as well as some chemical properties like color fastness to wash, color fastness to light and color
fastness to rubbing. The resistance to the loss of color of any dyed or printed material during washing is
referred to as its color fastness to wash. If dye molecule have not penetrated inside the inter polymer chain
space of fibre with strong attractive force poor color fastness to wash result is found [5]. For color fastness
to wash test ISO 105 C06 (C2S) method was followed. Color fastness to light measures the resistance to
fading of dyed textiles materials when exposed to day light [5]. Mercury-Tungsten Lamp was used for light
fastness test by ISO 105 B01 method. Color fastness to rubbing /crocking was designed to determine the
degree of color which may be transferred to a specific pressure applied by crock meter .This test was done
in both dry and wet state. The crocking cloth against which the test sample would be rubbed was a white,
unbleached, undyed cotton fabric. In crocking cloth, 100% pick-up was maintained for wet rubbing. Color
fastness to rubbing has little effect on carded and combed yarn because the hairiness of carded yarn is more
than combed yarn. Color fastness to rubbing was tested by Crock meter in ISO105 X12:1992 method.
Pills are formed in fabric by entangling the loose fibres or hairy fibres. When the garment undergoes wear
& washing these pills are formed on the fabric surface. Pilling is a fabric surface fault which gives the
garment unsightly appearance [1]. Carded and combed yarns have great effect for forming pills on fabric
surface. Pilling is tested by Martindale Abrasion & Pilling Tester by using SN 198525 method and 11000
cycles were used for every specimen. Every sample when undergoes washing most of the cases they change
their dimension. In general sense the changes in length or width of a fabric specimen subjected to specify
condition is known as dimensional changes. The dimensional changes resulting in an increase of length or
width is called stretched condition if the dimensional changes result in decrease of length or width is called
shrinkage [1]. At first all the samples were conditioned for 4 hours in a standard temperature & RH% and
the length and width of the samples were measured before washing. After wash, again the length and width
of the samples were measured for identify the stretch or shrinkage%. More hairy and more twisted carded
yarn produced higher fabric shrinkage than that of combed yarn. Spirality is a particularly serious problem
for plain knitted fabrics due to asymmetric loops. Spirality is described by the size of the angle made
between the Wales and a line drawn perpendicular to the courses. Spirality in a fabric is caused by the
relaxation of torsion forces in the yarn which causes the individual fibres twisted round each other during
spinning, to try and returns to their original untwisted state. It is known that a fabric knitted with a highly
twisted yarn will have higher spirality [7]. Carded yarn TPI is more than combed yarn. AATCC 179
method was used for measuring spirality. The term GSM of fabric means the weight of the fabric in grams
per square meter (Weight per unit area) [1]. GSM is the most important parameter which is maintained in
the factory or industry. It is maintained in the all stages in the processing of knit fabric. It is also measured
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after dyeing, before dyeing and every stages of finishing process like stentering, compacting etc. GSM was
measured by GSM cutter. Here grey GSM were measured in the knitting stages and finished GSM were
measured after finishing for comparing them.
IV.
DATA ANALYSIS
Table 1: Data for color fastness to wash (Color change)
Fabric type
Combed s/j
Carded s/j
Combed rib
Carded rib
Combed
interlock
Carded
interlock
Rating
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
Table 2: Data for color fastness to wash (Staining)
Fibre
composition
Rating for
combed s/j
Rating for
carded s/j
Rating for
combed rib
Rating for
carded rib
Rating for
combed
interlock
Rating for
carded interlock
Di-acetate
Bleached
Cotton
Polyester
Polyamide
Acrylic
Wool
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
[[[
Table 3: Data for color fastness to light
Fabric type
Combed s/j
Carded s/j
Combed rib
Carded rib
Rating
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
Combed
Interlock
4-5
Carded
Interlock
4-5
Carded
Interlock
4-5
4-5
Table 4: Data for color fastness to rubbing (Staining)
Fabric type
Combed s/j
Carded s/j
Combed rib
Carded rib
Rating for dry
rub
Rating for wet
rub
4-5
4-5
4-5
4
Combed
Interlock
4-5
3-4
3
3-4
3-4
4-5
Table 5: Data for pilling Resistance test (11000 cycles were used for every sample)
Fabric type
Combed s/j
Carded s/j
Combed rib
Carded rib
Rating
4
3-4
3-4
3
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Combed
Interlock
4
Carded
Interlock
3-4
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Table 6: Data for Shrinkage (%)
Fabric type
Combed s/j
Carded s/j
Combed rib
Carded rib
-2
Combed
Interlock
-4.6
Carded
Interlock
-4.3
Length wise
Shrinkage (%)
Width wise
Shrinkage (%)
-5
-6.5
-4
1.8
2
10.5
8.5
4.8
5.1
Combed
Interlock
220
260
Carded
Interlock
216
250
Table 7: Data for GSM.
Fabric type
Combed s/j
Carded s/j
Combed rib
Carded rib
Grey GSM
Finished GSM
156
189
154
179
168
229
165
220
Table 8: Data for Spirality (single jersey fabric)
Fabric type
Spirality(º)
V.
Combed s/j
6˚
Carded s/j
7˚
RESULTS
Figure-01: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to wash (color change)
Figure-02: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to wash (staining on bleached Cotton)
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Figure-03: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to light
Figure-04: Carded and combed yarn effect on color fastness to rubbing
In figure-01, 02 and 03, it is clearly observed that the finished knit fabrics made by carded yarn and
combed yarn have no significant change due to color fastness to wash and color fastness to light. But
in case of color fastness to rubbing, a little effect is found on finished knit fabric made by a same count
carded and combed yarn. Some cases combed yarn shows better result than carded yarn. In figure-04,
gives the clear conception about the color fastness to rubbing.
Figure-05: Carded and combed yarn effect on resistance of pilling
In figure: 05, it is easily observed that the resistance of pilling effect on single jersey, rib and interlock
fabric produced by combed yarn gives better result than same count carded yarn.
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Figure-06: Carded and combed yarn effect on shrinkage (%)
In figure: 06, it is clearly observed that shrinkage of all types of fabric produced from carded yarn is
more than that produced from combed yarn. While the yarn count is same.
Figure-07: Carded and combed yarn effect on GSM.
In figure-07, it is clearly observed that combed yarn produces higher GSM fabric than carded yarn, while
using the same count for both yarn types.
Figure-08: Carded and combed yarn effect on spirality
In figure-08, it is clearly observed that spirality of the fabric produced from combed yarn is lower than
that produced from carded yarn.
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VI.
119
CONCLUSION
The analytical result reveals that carded yarn can easily be used in place of combed yarn by changing some
knitting parameters. For this, production cost will be decreased because carded yarn production cost is
generally lower than combed yarn. Carded and combed yarns of same count have many different properties
which affect on fabric properties. This study work was analyzed a few number of yarn properties and fabric
properties. There are further scopes to work on the comfort characteristics like absorption characteristics,
thermal conductivity, fabric handle properties etc. The result of our simple bar diagram shows that using
same count of carded yarn and combed yarn fabric have no change occur in terms of color fastness to wash
and light. There is a little effect on color fastness to rubbing, pilling resistance, shrinkage properties and
spirality. Combed yarns are stronger, less hairy and more uniform than carded yarns. That is why, combed
yarns shows better result on color fastness to rubbing, pilling resistance and shrinkage properties than
carded yarns. Spirality is particularly measured for single jersey fabric. Carded yarn single jersey fabric
shows more spirality than combed yarn single jersey fabric because of high twist. Carded yarn and combed
yarn have great effect on GSM. More loose hairy fibres are removed from carded yarn by knitting process
and pretreatment process than combed yarn. As a result fabric produced from combed yarn shows more
GSM than fabric produced from carded yarn after finishing. In our analysis, GSM differences of carded
yarn fabric and combed yarn fabric in grey and finished stage vary from 2 to 10 respectively. From this
discussion, it can be said that in case of producing fabric from carded yarn should maintain higher GSM
than combed yarn fabric to achieve same finished GSM.
VII.
REFERENCES
[1] J.E. Booth “Principles of Textile Testing”, India: CBS publishers and Distributors, 1996, pp.209-235
[2] David. J. Spencer “Knitting Technology”, Cambridge: Woodhead, 2008, pp.1-61
[3] Klein. W. “Manual of Textile Technology”, UK: The Textile Institute, 2008, pp, 286-289.
[4] D.B. Ajgaonkar “Knitting Technology”, New Delhi: Universal Publishing Corporation, 2006, pp.180181
[5] E.R. Trotman “Dyeing and chemical Technology of Textile Fibres”, London: Charles Griffin and
Company Ltd., 1975, pp, 616-626
[6] Munden, D.L. “The Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain Knit Fabrics” Journal of the Textile
Institute 50, 1959.T448-471.
[7] Banerjee, P.K. and Alaiban, “T.S. Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain Loops, Made of Rotor
Spun Cotton Yarns” Textile Res. J. 58(5): 287-290 (1988).
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