1. style and fashion
2. jewelry

JEWELRY ESSENTIALS
Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
3
Table of Contents
Subject
Page
Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Design Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Selling Design Features and Benefits: An Example . . . . . . . . . . 6
Manufacturing and Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Signs of Quality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Invisible Solder Joints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Porosity-free Metal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Manufacturing and Assembly Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Selling Manufacturing Method Features and Benefits:
An Example . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Setting Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Selling Setting Features and Benefits: An Example . . . . . . . . . 18
Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Finish Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Selling Finish Features and Benefits: An Example . . . . . . . . . . 21
Key Concepts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Key Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
©
The Gemological Institute of America
Carlsbad, California 92008
©2000 The Gemological Institute of America
All rights reserved: Protected under the Berne Convention.
Printed in the United States.
PHOTO COURTESY
The Gemological Institute of America gratefully acknowledges the following people and organizations for their assistance in gathering or producing some of the images used in this assignment:
Conti-Creations
Michelle Griffith
Cristoph Krahenmann
Lauren Stomel Advertising
Mariora, Surfers Paradise, Australia
National Chain Group
Translating Features and
Benefits into Sales
What’s a brand-new 14K gold wedding band worth? That all depends. To a
refiner, the ring is worth the market value of its metal content by weight. To
a manufacturer, its selling price equals some mixture of the cost of materials,
labor, and overhead, plus markup. To a retail sales associate, the ring
represents the chance to help the customer make the proper choice and, as
a result, make a sale. And to the engaged couple who buys it, the wedding
band is a valued possession that represents their complex emotions about
themselves, their wedding, and their shared future.
Feature—A characteristic or part
of a piece of jewelry.
Benefit—The value a feature holds
for a customer.
People appreciate jewelry for many reasons. Often their appreciation
hinges on how well a given jewelry item’s features and benefits meet their
particular needs.
This assignment covers jewelry features that you’ll need to know for
your sales presentations. These features fall under four main categories:
• Design—The overall look of a jewelry item
• Manufacturing method—The method or combination of methods used to
make a jewelry item
• Setting—The way a jewelry item’s gems are held in place
• Finish—The final texture applied to the metal surface of a jewelry item
©2000 GIA. All rights reserved.
1
Jewelry Essentials
To a newly
married couple,
the wedding
band is a symbol
of their love and
commitment.
KEY
Concepts
Every customer values an item’s
features and benefits differently.
You don’t need the expertise of a seasoned bench jeweler to know your
merchandise’s features. The information in this assignment will help you
become familiar with the basic jewelry features. You can use this information
to explore the features of your store’s merchandise when you have a few quiet
moments. To focus your study, you can use the features checklists provided
throughout this assignment.
But features alone usually don’t sell jewelry. In fact, some features that are
of value to one customer may be of no value to another. One customer might
be attracted to the intriguing qualities of a ring with an invisible setting.
Another might prefer the more traditional solitaire. It’s your challenge to find
out which features your customer values. Then, you can select and present
jewelry with features and benefits that meet your customer’s needs.
In this assignment, you’ll learn to recognize four basic benefits of jewelry
and communicate them to your customers. Those basic benefits are:
• Eye appeal—The instant visual appeal of jewelry
• Wearability—The comfort, and perhaps versatility, of a jewelry item
• Evidence of good workmanship—The level of fine craftsmanship and
attention to detail in jewelry
• Durability—The sturdiness and permanence of a jewelry item
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3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
L e a r n i n g
f r o m
t h e
V i d e o
T
he video that accompanies
this course will help you
understand the written
descriptions of jewelry manufacturing methods by actually
showing each process in action.
The video contains demonstrations of chain manufacturing as
well as of the four main jewelry
manufacturing methods:
• Hand fabrication
• Lost-wax casting
• Die striking
• Electroforming
Christoph Krahenmann, Joel Beeson/photography
After you learn the basics from the printed assignment, you
can watch the video for a brief presentation of each method. With
this combination of printed and visual information, you’ll be able
to understand and truly appreciate the craftsmanship that goes
into each item you sell.
Learning your inventory’s features and how they translate into benefits will
enable you to explain to your customers the value of their jewelry purchase.
You can help them understand why the jewelry buying decision they make is
a sound one.
As you study the features and benefits of your store’s jewelry, you’ll find
yourself anticipating customer questions. Soon you’ll become confident in
your ability to give customers many reasons to buy from you. Your thorough
familiarity with features and benefits will give your customers confidence in
their selections. It’ll also help build their confidence in you, so they’re more
likely to return for future jewelry purchases.
In this assignment, you’ll learn about different jewelry manufacturing
methods. How jewelry is made can affect its style, appearance, and durability—all of which can affect jewelry value.
You don’t need to know exactly how the jewelry you sell was created,
and you don’t have to explain the technical details of each manufacturing
method to customers. But you do need to know enough to present the features and benefits of a jewelry item accurately, ethically, and with a sense
of what makes it special.
©PNI/Rainbow, Bill Lai/photography
Window shopping might bring
customers into your store, but once
they’re there, it’s your job to help them
with their purchase. One way is to share
feature and benefit information on the
jewelry that caught their attention.
3
Jewelry Essentials
Balance—A feature of design in
which all elements harmonize in
their appeal to the senses.
Gold Information Center
Well-designed jewelry blends form with function. The design of this necklace fits
and enhances the body’s contours.
Design
❒ WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FORM AND FUNCTION IN
JEWELRY DESIGN?
❒ WHAT ASPECT OF GOOD JEWELRY DESIGN TENDS TO REMAIN CONSTANT?
❒ WHAT ARE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF GOOD JEWELRY DESIGN?
Jewelry is both ornamental and functional. Its design should reflect these two
virtues. Its shape, size, and overall appearance should complement the way it’s
meant to be worn. In other words, its form should match its function. A ring,
for example, should stay comfortably in place on the finger.
In the variety of jewelry styles available today, one aspect of good design
tends to remain constant, and that’s balance. Balance doesn’t necessarily
mean that all design elements are identical. An abstract pendant can be asymmetrical, with a design that incorporates elements that don’t exactly match
each other. The pearls in a pair of earrings can be different colors. An elegant
cluster pendant might have diamonds in different sizes and shapes. But there
is usually some balancing element in the design that pulls it all together.
Jewelry designers experiment with many elements common to other visual
arts, including color, pattern, and line. Combined with the all-important ingredient of imagination, these elements comprise breathtaking “wearable art” that
is both beautiful and practical.
Some jewelry items are designed for
versatility. This opal brooch (top) can
also be worn as a necklace (bottom).
4
Good design doesn’t need to be complex or avant-garde. On the contrary,
it can be deceptively simple. Consider a fairly basic earring design—large,
lightweight gold hoops. If these earrings flatter a woman’s face, then their
design—however simple—fits the manufacturer’s intended purpose and
adds value to the item for the customer.
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
KEY
Concepts
Jewelry form should match
function.
Balance is an important aspect of
good jewelry design.
©Virginia Museum of Fine Arts
©Corbis & Joseph Sohm/photography
Jewelry designs often reflect elements common to all visual arts. The Art Deco
period of the 1920s and 1930s was symbolized by clean, distinct lines and bold colors.
The theme found its way into jewelry styles (left) as well as architecture (right).
Good design can also include versatility. Examples of design versatility
are necklaces with removable brooches, pearl strands that convert to chokerand-bracelet sets, and earring jackets that transform the look of simple stud
earrings. Versatile design is an advantage to someone on a limited budget as
well as to someone who simply wants to expand a jewelry wardrobe without
buying a lot of different pieces.
Design Checklist
What specific design features do you look for in a jewelry item? And how
do these features translate to benefits?
When you look at the design of jewelry items in your store, consider
their function, too. How does the design of an item fit its intended use? Can
the piece be worn in more than one way, or on a variety of occasions? Your
answers to these questions will help you discuss the benefits of a variety of
designs with your customers.
As you familiarize yourself with the design features of the jewelry you
sell, remember the following checklist, but keep in mind that not all the
checklist items will apply to every jewelry design.
• The item’s design fits its function
• It’s sturdy and durable enough for its intended function
• All moving parts—such as clasps, rivets (pins) in bracelets, and earring
backs—are secure and operate properly
• Interlocking parts, as in wedding sets or stackable rings, fit tightly
together
• Surfaces are smooth and won’t catch on clothing
Mel Curtis/photography
Design doesn’t have to be trendy or
complicated to be good. Consider the
simple elegance of a basic earring
design such as these lightweight gold
hoops.
The prong on the right is bent away
from the diamond. It should be repaired
before it catches on clothing and pulls
farther away from the stone. This can
lead to the loss of the customer’s
diamond.
5
Jewelry Essentials
©Michelle Griffith, M. Krisanda/photography
Design versatility is a valued feature in jewelry, especially for people on a modest
budget. These white gold stackable rings can be arranged in different patterns, as
shown in the two pictures. Their design allows them to interlock smoothly, no
matter how they’re stacked together.
Selling Design Features and Benefits: An Example
Suppose you are familiarizing yourself with some new inventory in your
store. How can you apply what you’ve just learned about design to a sales
presentation?
Let’s say a new shipment includes a set of five 18K white gold stackable rings, set with diamonds, blue sapphires, and fancy-color sapphires.
(Fancy-color sapphires come in colors other than blue. You can learn
more about them in Colored Stone Essentials.) These characteristics are
their features. One of the main benefits related to these features is that
there are many ways to wear the ring set. Customers can rearrange the
colors, change the stacking arrangement, wear one or two or all five
together on one finger, or even wear a ring on each finger.
How can you sell this set’s other design features—wearability, evidence
of good workmanship, and durability? In terms of wearability, the multiple
gem colors coordinate with a variety of outfits. As for workmanship, the
sapphires were carefully chosen for size and shape as well as color. And
diamonds and sapphires are hard stones that work well in rings because of
their toughness and durability.
Manufacturing and Assembly
❒ WHAT ARE TWO SIGNS OF GOOD MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUE?
❒ WHAT IS A BENEFIT OF PROPER SOLDERING TECHNIQUE?
Almost all jewelry is made using one or a combination of these manufacturing methods:
•
•
•
•
Hand fabrication
Lost-wax casting
Die striking
Electroforming
After you’ve had more experience, you might be able to tell how a ring
or earring was made simply by looking at it. More often, you will need to
ask the store’s owner, buyer, supplier, or bench jeweler.
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3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
You can sell jewelry without knowing which method was used to produce it. But when you do know, selling it becomes easier. That’s because
each method has its own features and benefits. (These are discussed in the
sidebars on manufacturing methods.) Die-struck jewelry, for example,
tends to be durable because its metal becomes highly compressed, and thus
stronger, in the die-striking process.
Signs of Quality
There are certain signs of quality that apply to almost every jewelry item,
no matter what type it is or which method was used to make it. Specifically,
there are two signs that apply to almost all jewelry: invisible solder joints
and porosity-free metal.
Porosity—A metal defect that
appears as pits or holes in the
surface.
Assembled jewelry—Jewelry
made of two or more parts,
sometimes created by different
manufacturing methods, joined
together.
Invisible Solder Joints
Jewelry that’s not made from one method alone is usually assembled from
some combination of cast, hand-fabricated, die-struck, or electroformed components. In assembled jewelry, the bench jeweler usually solders the parts
together. A precious metal alloy melts under heat and flows into the seam
between two separate metal components, uniting them when it cools. Done
well, soldering forms an invisible bond. The bench jeweler’s expertise makes
the juncture both durable and invisible.
Soldering should not alter the look or durability of a jewelry item.
However, improperly soldered joints, such as the area where a ring head
joins to a shank, can display thin lines, cracks, or “blobs” of excess solder.
Eventually, poorly soldered joints might discolor or separate.
The cable in these assembled earrings
was machined, while the 14K yellow
gold accents were cast. The manufacturer then soldered the separate pieces
together. Without the manufacturing
methods of machining and lost-wax
casting, these relatively simple earrings
would require extensive hand labor,
which wouldn’t be cost effective.
Porosity-free Metal
Porosity shows up as defects in the precious metal of a finished jewelry item.
In cast jewelry, the defects look like small pits. If it’s severe, porosity can
Porosity shows
up as pits in
jewelry metals.
These pits are on
the outer surface
of a ring.
KEY
Concepts
A well-executed solder joint is both
durable and invisible.
Well-manufactured jewelry should
be free of porosity.
7
Jewelry Essentials
Manufacturing Method: Hand Fabrication
The art and craft of hand fabricating jewelry is an ancient one. In a truly
hand-fabricated item, every element is formed, assembled, joined, and
finished entirely by hand or with hand tools. (Electric flex-shafts and
polishing wheels are considered hand tools in this case.) There’s more
about the hand-fabrication process in the accompanying course video.
In the US, the Federal Trade Commission has specific guidelines for
accurately defining hand fabrication. In order for a piece of jewelry to
be sold as “hand-fabricated” or “hand-made,” the FTC states that it
must be made entirely by hand or with hand tools. According to FTC
guidelines, hand-fabricated items cannot contain pre-made findings
like heads or clasps:
In the US, FTC guidelines state that
hand-fabricated or handmade jewelry
must be entirely made by hand or with
hand tools like these.
Sec. 23.3 Misuse of the terms “hand-made,” “hand-polished,” etc.
(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-made or hand-wrought unless
the entire shaping and forming of such product from raw materials and
its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and
manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and
vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each
individual product.
Note to paragraph (a): As used herein, “raw materials”
include bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similar items that have not been cut,
shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks.
(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-forged, hand-engraved, handfinished, or hand-polished, or has been otherwise hand-processed,
unless the operation described was accomplished by hand labor and
manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and
vary the type, amount, and effect of such operation on each part of each
individual product.
When you tell a customer that an item is hand-fabricated, you need to
be certain that all of its parts are handmade. One of the most common
detract from jewelry’s eye appeal. If it’s really severe—and this is rare—it
can even threaten durability. A porous item might contain weak spots if pits,
gaps, and other structural irregularities are large, numerous, or concentrated
in one area.
It’s likely that your customers have never heard the term “porosity.” But
they certainly want jewelry that’s beautiful and durable. When an item’s
surface is free of pits or blemishes, by all means point out this important
feature. You don’t need to go into detail. Just show the customer the item’s
bright polish and smooth surface.
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3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
areas of confusion is the difference
between hand-fabricated (handmade)
and hand-assembled. A jewelry item
made completely by hand or with
hand-controlled tools and methods is
considered hand-fabricated and can
be sold as such. Some jewelers may
hand fabricate a piece, however, and
add previously made findings that
they did not manufacture themselves.
In these cases, such jewelry must be
sold as assembled rather than handmade.
Hand Fabrication Features
and Benefits
In today’s market, both fine jewelry
and inexpensive jewelry can be
hand-fabricated. And, as with any
other technique, the quality of a
hand-fabricated piece depends on
the skill of the craftsperson.
Mike Havstad/photography
The unique design of this exquisite
black opal, diamond, and ruby necklace, as well as the nonstandard
shapes, large sizes, and high value of
the individual gemstones, made
hand fabrication the best option for
the manufacturer.
Hand fabrication offers the jeweler
a great deal of freedom. The process
can result in one-of-a-kind pieces.
It can carry out complex or unusual
designs that might be impossible to realize with other methods.
Manufacturers often hand fabricate custom-designed mountings for gems of
nonstandard shapes and sizes. It’s also useful for projects that involve combining multiple gems from old mountings. It would be difficult to find an
existing mounting to hold such a unique assortment of stones.
Manufacturing and Assembly Checklist
What specific manufacturing features do you look for in a jewelry item?
And how do these features translate to benefits?
Look at your store’s merchandise and consider how it might have been
made. Is there any evidence of the manufacturing method or methods
used? How do you think the jewelry’s manufacturing method might contribute to its value to a customer? Your answers to these questions will
help you discuss the benefits of specific manufacturing methods with
your customers.
9
Jewelry Essentials
Manufacturing Method: Lost-wax Casting
Most of the jewelry in your inventory was probably cast. Lost-wax
casting can be used for mass production as well as to make one-ofa-kind pieces.
The shank and head of this 14K gold
engagement ring were both cast. To
achieve the two-tone look, the white
gold head and yellow gold shank were
cast separately, then assembled.
For large-scale production, the
first step of the casting process is
to make an impression of a metal
jewelry model in a rubber mold.
Then, the rubber mold is repeatedly
injected with molten wax, which
hardens into exact copies of the
jewelry item. Many wax copies
are joined together and encased in
a plaster-like substance called
investment. The investment is
heated until the wax melts and
evaporates, leaving cavities
shaped like the jewelry model.
Next, molten metal is injected
into the cavities and allowed to cool.
Finally, the investment is removed,
revealing multiple jewelry items
ready for finishing.
Robert Weldon/photography
This 14K yellow gold ring is a onepiece casting. It’s one of a kind, made
to order especially for a specific customer. It would also be possible to
make rubber molds before setting the
gems, and produce thousands of
copies of the mounting.
The process is simpler for oneof-a-kind pieces. The first step is
the creation of the wax carving. Then the piece is cast, assembled, and
finished. The lost-wax casting process is shown in the accompanying
course video.
This solitaire ring is the product of a
combination of manufacturing methods. The 14K yellow gold shank is cast,
and the 14K white gold head is diestruck. The two pieces are soldered
together. The head was die-struck
rather than cast to give the prongs
greater holding power, a benefit that
stems from the greater density of diestruck metals.
10
Lost-wax Casting Features and Benefits
Manufacturers usually cast large production runs, which makes the
technique economical and relatively affordable.
Casting is a versatile process that can produce both simple and complex designs. Detail shows up well in cast jewelry.
Cast jewelry that isn’t formed in one piece is assembled from a combination of components produced by casting and other methods. One
example is a ring with a cast shank and a die-struck head.
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
➤
Maha DeMaggio/photography
This prong setting’s solder joint is wellexecuted—smooth, seamless, and
invisible.
Maha DeMaggio/photography
Excess solder is gathered in an
unsightly lump at the base of this
prong setting.
Joel Beeson/photography
Close examination of this pendant (left) reveals poor soldering technique: The solder
joint is visible as a crack where the two parts meet. The faulty solder joint caused
the pendant to break from its bail (right).
As you familiarize yourself with the jewelry merchandise produced by
different manufacturing methods, keep the following checklist in mind,
remembering that not all the checklist items will apply to every manufacturing or assembly method.
• Invisible solder joints
• Solder joints free of excess solder
• Sound structure, free of cracks or pits
Selling Manufacturing Method Features and Benefits:
An Example
Suppose a man shopping for a Valentine’s Day present for his girlfriend
asks you to show him a pair of gold earrings that you know are electroformed. How will you sell this manufacturing method as a benefit? (There’s
detailed information about electroforming on page 14.)
Joel Beeson/photography
This ring displays discoloration around
the solder joint, as well as a visible line
where the two ends meet.
11
Jewelry Essentials
Manufacturing Method: Die Striking
A coin is an everyday example of modern die striking. The process starts
with the manufacture of a steel pattern called a die, specially fashioned
to create a particular jewelry item or component. Dies usually consist of
two parts: a punch and a mold. Creating complex jewelry dies requires
a high level of skill.
©The Newark Museum
Making precise dies for jewelry takes
great skill. These steel dies were manufactured by Julius Braun in the 1920s.
The die-making process starts with a sheet of metal that’s the desired
thickness. A die-striking machine cuts out blanks of the size and shape
needed for the jewelry to be made. Often, a die-struck jewelry item is
made up of two die-struck pieces (front and back or two halves) that
require assembly. Finally, a finish is applied. You’ll learn more about the
die-striking process in the accompanying course video.
Die Striking Features and Benefits
Die striking is often used to achieve styles that are strong and
lightweight. That’s because the die-striking process subjects the sheet
metal to tremendous pressure. This compresses its molecular structure
and produces a denser, more durable metal.
The density of die-struck components is especially beneficial in
items like prong settings, where strength and durability are critical. It
also allows die-struck jewelry to be thin and lightweight without sacrificing durability. A die-struck ring shank, for example, can be slimmer
and lighter than a cast ring shank.
Joel Beeson/photography
Die-struck prong heads like these are
more durable than cast heads.
In addition to using less metal, most die-struck items require less
finishing than cast or hand-fabricated items. Because they take on the
texture of the die on impact, they need less hand finishing. This saves
labor costs.
Once manufacturers make the first large investment in equipment, die
striking is an economical process. In large production runs of identical
items—charms, for example—the labor cost of each piece is minimal. This
efficiency makes die-struck jewelry quite affordable.
Die striking is also ideal for jewelry designs that require crisp
detail and sharp edges. It’s especially useful for manufacturing
medallions that communicate a message with words or symbols, such
as religious medals. Die striking’s high degree of detail delivers the
message clearly.
The links of this 14K gold bracelet were
die-struck, which allows for precise
detail and light weight. Die striking also
results in a more durable product, which
means the design details of this bracelet
will keep their sharp appearance.
12
Die striking is also used to make identical necklace or bracelet segments in quantities that would be heavy if produced by casting.
One-of-a-kind designs are not usually die struck—it’s impractical
to create and set up the die to make just one item. However, diestruck findings and heads can become components of unique custom
designs.
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
The workmanship makes the earrings smooth and seamless, a result of
the electroforming process. And electroforming provides the right level of
durability for earrings. They also have a big, luxurious look (eye appeal)
and yet they are lightweight for their size (wearability).
Setting
❒ WHAT IS A SETTING’S PRIMARY PURPOSE?
❒ WHY IS EYE APPEAL IMPORTANT WHEN IT COMES TO SETTINGS?
❒ WHAT ARE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WELL-DESIGNED SETTINGS?
A well-made setting enhances jewelry’s overall beauty. Whether simple and
elegant, or bold and elaborate, an attractive setting adds eye appeal to a jewelry item.
But setting style is more than just a matter of eye appeal. A setting’s primary purpose is to hold gems securely.
These earrings were electroformed,
which gives them a big, luxurious look
while also making them lightweight and
comfortable. This popular knot style
can also be made by other methods,
such as casting and die striking.
As you learned in Assignment 2, the basic types of setting styles include:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Prong setting
Channel setting
Bezel setting
Bead setting (including pavé setting)
Flush setting
Invisible setting
Basic Setting Styles
Prong Setting
Channel Setting
Pavé Setting
Flush Setting
Bezel Setting
Invisible Setting
13
Jewelry Essentials
Manufacturing Method: Electroforming
Electroforming is a modern jewelry manufacturing technique that has
been used to make fine jewelry since the late 1970s. In electroforming,
wax copies are created and then painted with a thin, electricallycharged layer. The copies are then submerged in an electrically charged
liquid that contains precious metal particles. The charged particles are
attracted to the coating, so they stick to the wax copies in layers. When
the desired precious metal thickness is reached, the forms are removed
and heated. The wax melts out through a small hole in the rigid precious metal shell. For more information about the electroforming process, see the accompanying course video.
Electroforming Features and Benefits
Electroforming creates hollow jewelry that’s surprisingly durable. It’s often
used to create big, bold, complex jewelry that’s lightweight in relation to
its size, and unexpectedly comfortable. In addition to wearability, electroformed jewelry’s light weight
holds another advantage—the economical use of metal results in
lower prices than comparable
items produced by other methods.
Jewelry in full, rounded shapes
is often electroformed. An example
is a popular pendant style known as
a puffed heart. Because it’s difficult
to solder electroformed items, they
are usually one-piece designs.
Sometimes electroformed items
keep their natural matte look, a
result of the electrical deposition
process. More often, they are finished to a high polish.
This puffed heart lends itself well to
electroforming’s ability to show contours. The light weight is also a plus
for a large pendant.
14
Many people love big, bold earrings.
Electroforming can make large earrings comfortably lightweight
because the process allows them to
be hollow. The precious metal shell
produced by electroforming can also
be fairly complex and display either a
bright or a matte finish.
Electroformed jewelry isn’t as
durable as cast or die-struck jewelry, but it is perfect for earrings,
pins, and pendants that aren’t subject to hard knocks during wear.
Although it can dent, electroformed jewelry is not fragile. Tell
your customers they’re typically
getting a large look for a lower
price than if the jewelry design had
been cast.
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
Each setting style has its own associations for the customer. The
prong setting, for example, is generally thought of as traditional and
classic. When customers think of a traditional engagement ring, they
might picture a prong-set diamond solitaire. Or they might associate an
innovative invisible setting in a diamond and ruby brooch with elegance
and sophistication.
KEY
Concepts
A setting’s eye appeal often helps
to sell it.
Some customers like the rich look of the pavé setting. With its field
of small gems set tightly together, it can give a ring, pendant, or brooch
a look of sophistication and dazzle at the same time.
Often these associations with types of settings can work in your favor as
benefits. The eye appeal of the setting, and the associations the setting conjures in the customer’s mind, often lead to selling opportunities. Once you
present an elegantly tapered channel-set pendant or a simple and modern
bezel-set diamond solitaire pendant, you can sell the setting style’s other
benefits. But simply admiring the setting’s look, whether dramatic or subdued, is the best place to start.
Setting Checklist
What specific setting features do you look for in a jewelry item? And how
do these features translate into benefits?
Take a closer look at the settings of jewelry items in your store. How
are the gems held in place? How do different types of settings display
the beauty of the gems to their best advantage? What is it about these
settings that would appeal to a customer? Your answers to these questions will help you discuss the benefits of various settings with your
customers.
As you become familiar with the settings featured in the jewelry you sell,
keep the following checklist in mind.
• Undamaged gems
• Securely set gems
• Settings that hold the gem securely while covering the least possible
amount of gem surface
• Correctly aligned gems
• Thorough finishing
Where it applies to the setting itself:
•
•
•
•
•
Uniformly shaped prongs
Maha DeMaggio/photography
The poorly executed pavé setting (top)
has several flaws. The beads are poorly
finished and unevenly shaped, the
gemstones are not level, and the border is marred by tool marks. A wellexecuted pavé setting (bottom) gives
the illusion of a solid field of gems.
No gaps between prongs and gem(s)
Crisp edges or smoothly rounded edges
Minimal to no gaps, or evenly spaced gaps, between channel-set gems
Well-matched gems
15
Jewelry Essentials
Maha DeMaggio/photography
Joel Beeson/photography
Maha DeMaggio/photography
Maha DeMaggio/photography
Joel Beeson/photography
Maha DeMaggio/photography
The prong on the left is not in contact
with the gem. This can cause damage
to the prong or loss of the gem.
A jeweler applied too much pressure to
the V-shaped prong that covers the tip
of this marquise-cut gem, causing it to
break.
The head on this solitaire ring was
soldered at an odd angle, and the gem
itself is crooked within its setting.
16
The prong tip on the right contacts the
gem’s surface properly, helping to
ensure a secure setting.
The tip of one prong on this ring has
broken off completely.
The top view of this properly set
solitaire shows evenly spaced prongs of
similar size and shape.
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
Joel Beeson/photography
Joel Beeson/photography
Joel Beeson/photography
Joel Beeson/photography
Prongs should not be as thick and
heavy as they are in this pear-shaped
solitaire ring.
The channel setting on the left is properly done—the gems are set evenly,
without gaps. The channel setting on
the right, however, shows noticeably
uneven gaps between the gems.
Joel Beeson/photography
The profile of this solitaire ring shows
that the gemstone is tilted within its
prong setting.
The bezel setting on the left is properly
executed, the one on the right is not.
The poorly executed setting is irregularly shaped and shows tool marks. It
also doesn’t contact the gemstone
properly, so gem loss is a possibility.
The amethysts in the bracelet on the left are poorly matched for color, with some
lighter than the others. The colors match much better in the bracelet on the right.
Maha DeMaggio/photography
The gems in this pair of earrings are
poorly matched for color.
17
Jewelry Essentials
These two
earring pairs
feature pavé-set
diamonds. Pavé
settings provide
a lot of sparkle
and an elegant
look.
©Tiffany & Co.
Selling Setting Features and Benefits: An Example
Imagine that you’ve sold a lot of pavé-set diamond jewelry recently. It’s probably because you’ve emphasized the eye appeal of pavé-style settings to your
customers. As you told a woman who purchased a platinum and diamond
pavé-set ring the other day, this look is glamorous, elegant, and sophisticated.
A pavé setting’s dazzling appearance is evidence of the craftsmanship that
went into its creation. Another benefit is that, when all gems are aligned and
secure, the pavé setting is durable. And the pavé setting is wearable—there
are no high prongs to catch on clothing.
Finish
❒ HOW CAN GOOD FINISH BE FELT AS WELL AS SEEN?
❒ WHAT ARE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF A GOOD FINISH?
❒ HOW MIGHT YOU SELL FINISH QUALITY AS A BENEFIT TO CUSTOMERS?
Jewelry arouses our senses. When we inspect it closely, we might find that a
gold ring is exquisitely designed and substantial. But it first attracts our gaze
and invites our touch largely because of the crucial final step in crafting it.
That final act is called finishing.
18
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
This boulder opal
and 18K gold
and platinum
necklace features
excellent design
and finish. The
bright finish
across the metal
gives it a stunning appearance.
To finish jewelry, workers often apply a distinctive texture or polish.
The technique is more than just clean-up work or a few quick passes under
a buffing wheel. A unique finish enhances the entire design. Jewelers can
create dozens of finishes, from velvety to dimpled, from traditional to contemporary. Sometimes they even create two or more contrasting finishes on
one piece.
Here are some common finishes you might recognize:
• Bark—Wavy, almost parallel lines resembling tree bark
• Diamond cut—Angled “facets” cut into metal with a rotating, diamondtipped tool
• Florentine—Cross-hatched engraved lines
• Hammered—Bright, irregular surface texture
• High polish—Bright, smooth, mirror-like finish
• Matte—Velvety, frosted, grainy finish
• Satin—Muted, soft, lustrous finish
Jewelry manufacturers recognize the powerful eye appeal of a good finish.
They often use special equipment or hand labor to apply “finishing touches”
that are striking and appealing. Certain looks, such as hammered finishes,
KEY
Concepts
A well-executed finish enhances
the entire design of a jewelry item.
19
Jewelry Essentials
The texture of a bark finish imitates the
natural look of tree bark.
Diamond cuts add brightness to the
satin finish of these rings.
The florentine finish gives a formal
look, featuring a regular cross-hatch
pattern.
The hammered finish creates a bright,
textured surface with irregular faces
that catch the light.
Metal with high polish has a mirror-like
finish.
Satin finishes are soft and velvety, and
not as bright as highly polished finishes.
might be carefully done by hand. Other finishes, such as the matte finish on
an electroformed piece, might result from the manufacturing process itself,
or from sandblasting.
No matter how it’s accomplished, finish is strongly linked to eye appeal.
After all, the sleek gleam of a beautifully polished ring is the first thing
most customers notice about it. But finish is more than just a glittering first
impression. In a well-finished item, all areas, including those not visible at
first glance, are finished in some way.
20
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
Pick up a pendant from your store’s display case and turn it over.
Whatever its style or manufacturing method, the back should be clean and
unblemished. This little-seen area of the piece doesn’t need a fancy finish.
But if the back is decoratively finished, that’s an added feature that provides
additional value to the customer.
A good finishing job can be felt as well as seen. Slip the item on—
it should feel smooth and comfortable against your skin. Run it along
a piece of fabric—it should slide smoothly along the fabric without
snagging.
Finish Checklist
What specific finish features do you look for in a jewelry item? And how
do these features translate to benefits?
Look closely at the various finishes applied to jewelry items in your
inventory. How does each finish look and feel? Is it bold or understated?
Of the items you look at, what is your favorite finish and why? Your
answers to these questions will help you discuss the benefits of various
settings with your customers.
As you familiarize yourself with the finish of the jewelry you sell, keep
the following checklist in mind. Not all the checklist items will apply to
every jewelry finish.
• No obvious porosity or pitting
• Polished recesses and underside, if applicable
• Consistent polish or texturing
• Sharp detail and edges
• No flat spots on curved areas
• No tool marks or polish marks
If you pick up a pendant from your
store’s display case and turn it over,
the back should be well finished. No
jewelry item is well finished unless all
areas are finished in some way.
Maha DeMaggio/photography
A high polish can be difficult to achieve
on the underside of a cast ring. Instead,
manufacturers can apply a decorative
textured finish.
Selling Finish Features and Benefits: An Example
A customer is interested in a pair of bright-polished 14K gold earrings without gemstones. The earrings are die-struck, so you know they’re durable. (See
the sidebar on die striking to find out why.) Their bright finish makes them
reflective and lustrous—great eye appeal.
Can you think of other benefits that are evidence of good workmanship
and wearability? How about the lack of tool marks or excess solder? That’s
evidence of good workmanship. The earrings are simple yet elegant
enough to wear with just about anything. That versatility is a part of their
wearability.
Joel Beeson/photography
The impact of overpolishing is evident
in the signet ring on the right.
Compared to the sharp edges in the
ring on the left, the overpolished ring’s
edges are blunted and rounded.
21
Jewelry Essentials
National Chain Group, Joseph King/photography
State-of-the-art chain manufacturing machines are computer programmed, so they
can execute complex patterns at high speed.
22
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
Chain Quality Features
Neck chains and bracelet chains are always a retail
staple. Computer-programmable chain-making
machines make it possible to produce great quantities
of chain in a wide variety of styles. For this reason,
most of the chains you sell are probably machinemade, and they probably have very few quality variations. Some quality differences show up in the clasps
used: High-quality manufacturers use better-quality
clasp-and-ring combinations.
To judge all types of chains:
• Find out whether the chain is hollow or solid. Hollow
Diamond-cut
braided herringbone chain and
omega chain.
chains provide a bigger look, and they’re usually less
expensive because they use less metal. But they can
dent or be more challenging to repair than solid chains.
You can share this information with your customers to help them choose the
right chain.
• There should be no kinks, flat spots, or other distortions.
To judge diamond-cut chains:
• A diamond-cut finish adds extra brilliance. But the technique might also
create sharp edges. Test it on a piece of cloth. It should run smoothly
across the fabric.
To judge omega chains:
• These flat or domed wide-look chains should lie smoothly when worn.
Have your customer try on an omega. Or drape it on a neckform to
demonstrate the way it hangs.
• Links should fit tightly together.
23
Jewelry Essentials
KEY
Concepts
Every customer values an item’s
features and benefits differently.
A well-executed solder joint is both
durable and invisible.
Jewelry form should match
function.
Well-manufactured jewelry should
be free of porosity.
Balance is an important aspect of
good jewelry design.
A setting’s eye appeal often helps
to sell it.
24
A well-executed finish enhances
the entire design of a jewelry item.
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
Key Terms
Assembled jewelry—Jewelry
made of two or more parts,
sometimes created by different
manufacturing methods, joined
together.
Balance—A feature of design in
which all elements harmonize in
their appeal to the senses.
Benefit—The value a feature holds
for a customer.
Feature—A characteristic or part
of a piece of jewelry.
Porosity—A metal defect that
appears as pits or holes in the
surface.
25
Jewelry Essentials
Jewelry Essentials
1. The Nature of Precious Metals
2. A Jewelry Gallery
3. Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
4. Regulation and Testing
5. Serving Your Customer
26
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
ASSIGNMENTS 2 and 3
QUESTIONNAIRE
Each of the questions or incomplete statements below is followed by several possible answers. Choose the ONE
that BEST answers the question or completes the statement. Then place the letter (A, B, C, or D) corresponding
to your answer in the blank at the left of the question.
If you’re unsure about any question, go back, review the assignment, and find the correct answer. When
you’ve answered all the questions, transfer your answers to the answer sheet.
________1. Which of the following is an example of a feature?
A. “This ring is quite durable.”
B. “This ring has a pavé setting.”
C. “The gem is secure in the setting.”
D. “The ring won't slide around your finger.”
________2. Which of the following is an example of a benefit?
A. “The necklace is platinum.”
B. “The ring has a matte finish.”
C. “The pendant has a prong setting.”
D. “The earrings are light and comfortable.”
________3. An area of small pits on the inside of a ring shank is evidence of
A. porosity.
B. die-striking.
C. electroforming.
________4. Which of the following is a Florentine finish?
A.
B.
C.
Continued next page...
IF YOU NEED HELP: Contact your instructor through GIA Online, or call 800-421-7250 toll-free in the US and
Canada, or 760-603-4000; after hours you can leave a message.
27
Jewelry Essentials
________5. Which of the following is a hammered finish?
A.
B.
C.
________6. Manufacturers started using electroforming for jewelry in the late
A. 1940s.
B. 1950s.
C. 1960s.
D. 1970s.
________7. Electroformed jewelry is usually
A. satin finished.
B. heavy for its size.
C. a one-piece design.
D. assembled from multiple findings.
________8. The plaster-like substance used in lost-wax casting is called
A. wax.
B. a tree.
C. a model.
D. investment.
________9. Most chains are
A. hollow.
B. handmade.
C. machine made.
D. lightly textured.
________10. According to FTC guidelines, which can be used in the manufacture of a hand-fabricated
piece of jewelry?
A. Flex-shafts
B. Small casting machines
C. Die-struck prong settings
D. Small, unfinished findings
28
Continued next page...
3 Translating Features and Benefits into Sales
________11. The most common gem setting is the
A. flush setting.
B. prong setting.
C. channel setting.
D. invisible setting.
________12. The solitaire setting features a
A. single gem.
B. cluster of small gems.
C. featured gem surrounded by smaller gems.
________13. In the US, the term “antique jewelry” applies to jewelry that is
A. 50 years old.
B. at least 100 years old.
C. previously owned, no matter what its age.
________14. A jewelry style that features curving lines and nature themes is called
A. Victorian.
B. Art Deco.
C. Art Nouveau.
________15. A jewelry style that features geometric patterns and bold, contrasting colors is called
A. Victorian.
B. Art Deco.
C. Art Nouveau.
29
Cover photos (clockwise from upper left): Corbis/Joseph Sohm; Andy Marcus; Mariora, Australia;Tiffany & Co.