BB Cream What is BB Cream? BB cream, also known as Blemish Balm or Blemish Base, is a cosmetic product sold in Korea. It was initially used by dermatologists to help laser surgery patients to protect, soothe and refine highly sensitive skin while providing light coverage for post-laser scars, acne and other blemishes. Additionally, BB cream encourages skin regeneration and helps to maintain youthful skin. BB Cream on the world market Originally formulated in Germany, BB cream has recently gained a huge success for its skin-regenerating properties and is now also widely used in Asia to provide natural-looking skin coverage. Korean celebrities and cosmetic companies were the first to discover BB cream and the craze for this wonder cream, which beautifies while healing, has now spread from Korea to Japan to South East Asia and is already quickly making its way to Europe and the USA. Company name: HANSKIN* Company name: MISSHA Brand: BB Total Cream Brand: M BB Cream (Asian market) (Asian market) *(HANSKIN is the company who launched BB Cream for the first time in Korea.) Company name: KANEBO Company name: L’OREAL Brand: Freshel Moist Lift BB Cream Brand: L’Oreal Magique (Asian market) (European market) Company name: GARNIER Company name: KIKO Brand: Garnier Skin Naturals Brand: Kiko (European market) (European market) BB Cream features: The difference between BB cream and other make-up applications is that it is a skincare/treatment product combined with make-up: BB cream treats skin while covering up. The BB Cream work as: - treatment - sun protection - make-up base - foundation Our BB Cream formulations The BB Cream work as: - treatment - sun protection - make-up base - foundation BB Cream works as… A treatment: our suggestions Actives for treatment: - EPS Seafill PA (Codif Recherche et Nature) INCI name: Water (and) Planktonic exopolysaccharide 3 (and) Phenetyl alcohol Aqueous solution of exopolysaccharides produced by plankton microorganisms isolated in Brittany. It has an immediate anti-wrinkle activity. - Pheohydrane (Codif Recherche et Nature) INCI Name: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Algin, Maris Aqua, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract Solution in sea water of a polysaccharide extracted from the brown seaweed Laminaria digitata, blended with aminoacids from the seaweed Chlorella vulgaris. It promotes an immediate and prolonged moisturization. - VC-IP (Ajinomoto) INCI name: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Soluble derivative of vitamin C, more stable and with high percutaneous absorption. Promotes the collagen synthesis, is an effective whitening agent and inhibits peroxidation of membrane lipids. Approved as a quasi-drug in Japan. - Lecinol S-10 (Nikko Chemicals Co.) INCI Name: Hydrogenated Lecithin PEG-free hydrophilic emulsifier, of vegetal origin. Excellent wetting agent for pigments. It has moisturizing and soothing properties, it promotes the absorption of actives and it is particularly suitable for products for very delicate and intolerant skin. - Uji Tea Extract (B) BG (Nikko Chemicals Co.) INCI Name: Camelia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Water Uji green tea extract based on a new concept of aging prevention: inhibiting the “late phase oxidation” to suppress oxidative and inflammatory processes that lead to various skin damages. Uji Tea Extract (B) BG is derived from the leafs of a unique Japanese tea, harvested only in Kyoto specific area. - Hydrofiltrat Silena G (Codif Recherche et Nature) INCI Name: Glycerin, Aqua, Silene Uniflora Extract Hydroglyceric extract of the seashore plant Silene uniflora (Sea Campion) with remarkable antioxidant and radical scavenging properties. Grade without preservatives. - EPS Seamat PA (Codif Recherche et Nature) INCI Name: Aqua, Planktonic Exopolysaccharide 5 (pending), Phenethyl Alcohol Derived from Marine Biotechnology, EPS SEAMAT is a Marine Exopolysaccharide with a unique and completely new structure which gives it the property of an immediate mattifying agent. Ecocert without phenoxyethanol. - Ajidew Zn-100 (Ajinomoto) INCI Name: Zinc PCA AJIDEW ZN-100 is the Zinc Salt of L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate (Zinc PCA). L-Pyrrolidone Carboxylate (PCA) and its Sodium salts are a natural humectant associated with the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin. It provides as fresh feeling to the skin which makes it ideally suited for cosmetics and toiletries. It helps to mitigate the appearance of unwanted excess sebum, delivering a fresh feeling to the skin and hair. - Epidermosil (Exsymol) INCI Name: Sodium Hyaluronate, Silanetriol, Aqua, Butylene Glycol Silanol resulting from the condensation between the methylsilanetriol moiety (MTS) on low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It improves the epidermal and cell renewal effect of hyaluronic acid (epidermal extracellular matrix) and avoids epidermal thinning. It has moisturizing and anti-age properties. BB Cream works as… A sun protector: our suggestions - Batyl Alcohol 100 (Nikko Chemicals Co.) INCI name: Batyl Alcohol Glyceryl ether of stearyl alcohol. It can be used as a body agent for emulsions but it shows remarkable anti-inflammatory properties. Suitable for sun and after sun products. High purity grade. - Rose Myrtle Extract BG80 (Maruzen) INCI Name: Butylene Glycol, Aqua, Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract Hydroglycolic extract of the fruit of Rhodomyrtus tomentosa, plant original of southeast Asia, China and Japan. It shows SOD-like activity, it promotes glutathione synthesis and prevents DNA damages caused by UV rays. - Hydrofiltrat Statice G (Codif Recherche et Nature) INCI Name: Glycerin, Aqua, Limonium Narbonense Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Hydroglyceric extract of the seashore plant Limonium narbonense (Statice) with remarkable antioxidant and radical scavenging properties. Grade without preservatives. - Mixed Tocotrienols (Nikko Chemicals Co.) INCI Name: Tocotrienols Blend of tocopherols and tocotrienols, with 60% min. of alpha and beta-tocotrienols. It has a stronger activity against protein oxidation and lipid peroxidation compared to tocopherols. It can reduce damages caused by UV-irradiation. - Zano 10 (Umicore) INCI Name: Zinc Oxide - Zano 10 Plus (Umicore) INCI Name: Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane Microfine zinc oxide powder offering an exceptionally broad spectrum UV-B/UV-A protection. It protects effectively the skin against the harmful rays of the sun. Its unique production process results in a homogeneous particle and a narrow particle size distribution, leading to an excellent transparency in cosmetics formulations. Zano 10 conforms to the European (EP) and American (USP) pharmacopoeia. BB Cream works as… A make up base: our suggestions Emulsifiers: - Nikkomulese WO-CF Plus (Nikko Chemicals Co.) INCI name: Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite Extremely stable silicone-type emulsifier and hectorite derivative for water-in-silicone or silicone-rich W/O systems. It forms a thixotropic oil gel around water droplets. It makes very stable emulsions with extraordinary texture: light and elegant. It combines penetrating and waterproof properties of water-in-oil systems with light (not tacky) feel. Nikkomulese WO-CF Plus creates emulsions with remarkable stability and spreadability. - Amisoft HS-11 PF (Ajinomoto) INCI name: Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Amisoft HS-11 PF is an anionic surfactant produced from L-Glutamic Acid (an amino acid) and plant-derived palm fatty acid. Extremely hypoallergenic and well suited as emulsifier. The pH is similar to that of the skin, therefore, it is very mild to the skin. It is natural and environmentally friendly. - Emulprogress 57 (Prodotti Gianni) INCI Name: Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tristearate, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydrophilic PEG-free natural emulsifier for the formulation of O/W emulsions. Easy to use, it can emulsify any kind of oil regardless polarity and it does not require the use of rheology modifier. It gives a nice texture. “Photoshop” effect: - Elisphere (Prodotti Gianni) INCI Name: Silica Elisphere are porous (A and B serie) and non-porous (P serie) silica spheres, with average particle size from3 to 20 microns. Wide oil absorption capacity range (30 to 400ml/100g). It is a texturizer, absorbs sebum, thickens lipophilic systems and provides soft-focus effect. Thanks to the spherical shape, Elisphere gives more volume feeling on the skin and more volume vision due to light reflection for a 3D full vision. Concealing effect test on a piece of artificial leather Elisphere A83 Elisphere A85 Elisphere A812 Elisphere A73 Elisphere A75 Elisphere A712 Blank - Plastic Powder D-400 (Toshiki) INCI name: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica Microfine powder made of a polyurethane and silica, with particle size 10-15 microns. It is the softest and most elastic powder among the usual texturizers. It confers a velvety feel with soft-focus effect. It turns the texture from a standard to an excellent one. It has more elasticity than the traditional powders, and provides soft and virtual moisture feeling. They are 50 times softer than nylon powder and 100 times softer than polymethyl methacrylate. Their truly spherical shape allows achieving fine spreadability and smoothness of the finished product and concealer ability to cover skin imperfection and pores. Concealing effect test on a piece of artificial leather Sample prepared by dispersing a different percentage of Plastic Powder D-400 in Mineral Oil Without D-400 application D-400 : Mineral Oil 40 : 60 D-400 : Mineral Oil 35 : 65 D-400 : Mineral Oil 20 : 80 - Prizmalite series (Prizmalite) INCI name: Glass Beads Spherical glass beads, available with average particle size of 4/10/38 micron. Any particle acts as a lens and a mirror, strengthening the effect of pearls and pigments. It is also a very transparent filler. It gives a multi-view perfection. Thanks to the spherical shape, Prizmalite has omni-angle reflectivity and shows visibility from all directions. - PUHP series (Saint-Gobain) INCI Name: Boron Nitride Boron nitride with particle size range from 2 to 30 microns. It improves texture and adhesion on skin, it helps for powder compression and it provides soft focus effect. PUHP can works as adherence agent, texturizer, soft focus, lubricant, mattifing, spreading, pick-up enhancer, helps compaction, long wearing. A product with high versatility (wide particle size range): opaque to transparent and mat to sparkling finish. BB Cream works as… A foundation: our suggestions Pigments: - FDP & WCP (Jigen) Treated pigment for silicone (FDP) and no-silicone (WCP) bases. It is characterized by very fast dispersion, high colour reproducibility and very good texture. Compared to the traditional treated pigments on the market the FDP and WCP can be dispersed immediately (5 minutes for 1 kilogram of bulk product) without any pre-milling or pre-treatment (pre-dispersion in the lipo phase). The colour consistency allows you to skip the colour matching stage at the end of the manufacturing process. Available in 7 shades: White, Black, Yellow, Red, Blue, Green and Pink. FDP series: Two main grades are available: - standard grade (FDP-C) (Talc, CI 77891, Pigment (except for White), Hydrogen Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide) - dark grade (FDP-C-Da) (Pigment (except for White), Talc, Hydrogen Dimethicone) Standard grade (FDP-C) FDP-C-White3 FDP-C-Yellow3 FDP-C-Red3 FDP-C-Black3 FDP-C-Pa-White FDP-C-Blue FDP-C-Green FDP-C-Pink (INCI: Talc, CI 77891, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide) (INCI: Talc, CI 77891, CI 77492, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide) (INCI: Talc, CI 77891, CI 77491, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide) (INCI: Talc, CI 77891, CI 77499, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide) (INCI: Talc, Hydrogen Dimethicone) (INCI: Talc, CI 77007, Silica, Hydrogen Dimethicone) (INCI: CI 77288, Talc, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Methicone) (INCI: Talc, CI 77007, Methicone, Hydrogen Dimethicone) Dark grade (FDP-C-Da) FDP-C-Da-Yellow FDP-C-Da-Red FDP-C-Da-Black (INCI: CI 77492, Talc, Hydrogen Dimethicone) (INCI: CI 77491, Talc, Hydrogen Dimethicone) (INCI: CI 77499, Talc, Hydrogen Dimethicone) WCP series: Two main grades are available: - standard grade (WCP-2039) (CI 77891, Talc, Pigment (except for White), Magnesium Stearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Mica, Stearic Acid) - dark grade (WCP-2039-Da) (Talc, Pigment (except for White), Magnesium Stearate, CI 77891, Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid) Standard grade (WCP-2039) (INCI: CI 77891, Talc, Magnesium Stearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Mica, Stearic Acid) WCP-2039-Yellow3 (INCI: CI 77891, Talc, CI 77492, Magnesium Stearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Mica, Stearic Acid) WCP-2039-Red3 (INCI: CI 77891, Talc, CI 77491, Magnesium Stearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Mica, Stearic Acid) WCP-2039-Black3 (INCI: CI 77891, Magnesium Stearate, Talc, CI 77499, Aluminum Hydroxide, Mica, Stearic Acid) WCP-2039-White3 WCP-2039-Pa-White3 (INCI: Talc, Magnesium Stearate, CI 77891, Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, WCP-2039-Blue3 WCP-2039-Green3 Stearic Acid) (INCI: CI 77891, Talc, CI 77007, Magnesium Stearate, Mica, Stearic Acid, Aluminum Hydroxide) (INCI: CI 77891, Talc, CI 77288, Magnesium Stearate, Mica, Stearic Acid, Aluminum Hydroxide) Dark grade (WCP-2039-Da) WCP-2039-Da-Yellow3 (INCI: Talc, CI 77492, Magnesium Stearate, CI 77891, Mica, Aluminum WCP-2039-Da-Red3 WCP-2039-Da-Black3 Hydroxide, Stearic Acid) (INCI: Talc, CI 77491, Magnesium Stearate, CI 77891, Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid) (INCI: Talc, CI 77499, Magnesium Stearate, CI 77891, Mica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid) PRODOTTI GIANNI S.p.A. Via M.F. Quintiliano, 30 20138 MILANO (Italy) Tel. +39 02 5097 211 Fax +39 02 5097 313 www.prodottigianni.com
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