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Surfactants, Emulsifiers
and Gelling Agents range
www.infinity-ingredients.co.uk
Surfactants, Emulsifiers and Gelling Agents
Surfactants, co-surfactants, emulsifiers, coemulsifiers and gelling agents are used in
almost all cosmetic products. The selection
of these ingredients very much depends on
whether the formulation is natural/organic
or synthetic, the performance required and
product category.
We at Infinity Ingredients are pleased to
summarise the materials we have for this
product category below.
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Surfactants & Co-Surfactants
Dermosoft® decalact liquid
(INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate;
Triethylcitrate) is a low viscous convenience
blend based on Dermosoft® decalact for
easy handling with analogous antimicrobial
properties.
Recommended use level: 0.7 – 1.2%
Dermofeel® G 10 DI
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate) is a
non-ionic surfactant made from natural raw
materials.
Recommended use level: 1 – 10%
Dermofeel® G 5 DO
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate) is a non-ionic
surfactant made from natural raw materials.
Recommended use level: 1 – 10%
Dermofeel® G 5 L
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate) is a coemulsifier made from natural raw materials
with excellent cosmetic properties. Due to
its excellent good eye and skin compatibility,
its pleasant skin-feel and outstanding
detergence, Dermofeel® G 5 L can be used
for baby care products and facial cleansing,
as well as a solubiliser for alcohol-free
solutions (i.e. perfumes), and for natural bath
oils.
Recommended use level: 1 – 2%
Dermofeel G 5 O
®
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate) is a non-ionic
surfactant made from natural raw materials.
Recommended use level: 1 – 6%
Dermofeel® G 6 CY
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate) is a multipurpose, non-ionic surfactant. It is an
excellent oil solubiliser with good wetting
properties. Made from renewable raw
materials, it is used as food additive and is
fully bio-degradable.
Recommended use level: 1 – 3%
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Dermofeel® G 10 LW
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Aqua) is a
co-emulsifier made from natural raw materials
with excellent cosmetic properties in form of
a 50% watery solution. Due to its excellent
eye and skin compatibility, its pleasant skinfeel and outstanding detergence, Dermofeel®
G 10 LW can be used for baby care products
and face cleansing, as well as an emulsifier
for low-viscosity O/W-emulsions and roll-on
emulsions.
Recommended use level: 1 – 2%
Dermosoft® GMC
(INCI: Glyceryl Caprate) is a multi-functional
cosmetic raw material that acts as fatting,
wetting, moisturising, and co-emulsifying
agent. It is very skin friendly and effective
for the biological stabilisation against yeast
and bacteria. It can be incorporated into the
either the oil- or water-phase.
Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%
Dermosoft® GMCY
(INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate) is a skin friendly
multi-functional cosmetic raw material which
acts as a fatting, wetting, moisturising, and
co-emulsifying agent. Also it is effective for
biological stabilisation against yeast and
bacteria and can be incorporated into the oilor water-phase. Why not try this material in a
PEG-free self-emulsifying bath oil?
Recommended use level: 0.3 – 1%
Dermosoft® Octiol
(INCI: Caprylyl Glycol) is a multi-functional
additive which can be used as a viscosity
regulating and wetting agent. Its compatibility
with many cosmetic ingredients and its pHindependent broad efficacy against germs
allow for the use in rinse-off-products and
emulsions.
Recommended use level: 0.3 – 1%
Dermosoft® SLL
(INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate) is a coemulsifier and foam stabilisation agent which
is useful for a wide range of cosmetics. Due
to its antimicrobial activity, it also acts as a
deodorant ingredient. An example of use
is the treatment of Dandruff (Seborrhoeic
dermatitis).
Recommended use level: 0.5 – 0.8%
Emulmetik™
(INCI: Lecithin/ Hydrogenated Lecithin)
are natural Lecithins and Phospholipids
with various Phosphatidylcholine contents.
Used as co-emulsifiers, wetting agents or
active ingredients, they improve all types
of formulation with a unique sensorial and
natural approach. Emulmetik™ 320 increases
the longevity of fragrance and enables the
fragrance level to be reduced (good for
allergens). See the Lucas Meyer ‘Emulsion
de Parfum’ concept that shows enhanced
fragrance longevity (even after washing).
EmulmetikTM is naturally compliant (if using
essential oils) and provides an ultra-light
texture. Emulmetik™ 930 is best for wipes,
make-up removal and the reduction of pore
size.
Recommended use level: 0.25 - 15%
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Symbio®solv XC
(INCI: Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw
Glycosides, Aqua, Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw
Glycosides, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Sodium
Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Caprylate)
consists of a mixture of surfactants and
wetting agents that are all naturally derived
and show excellent performance for
solubilisation. It can be employed in a variety
of cosmetic products. It yields transparent
solutions of most perfume oils and essential
oils in aqueous formulations, making it
invaluable for tonics and oral care products.
Symbio®solv XC does not contain any
alkoxylated species. Therefore it is PEG and
PPG-free. In comparison to the industry’s
gold standard (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor
Oil) Symbio®solv XC showed a superior
performance.
Recommended use level: 1 – 3%
Emulsifiers & Co-Emulsifiers O/W
HLB values are the stoichiometric value and relationship between the lipophilic and
hydrophilic parts. In summary:
HLB 3 – 8 = W/O
HLB 8 -15 = O/W
HLB 11 – 15 = light skin feel
HLB > 15 = solubilisers and co-emulsifiers such as G10L and G10 LW
Amisol™ Soft
(INCI: Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl
Stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine Soja
(Soybean) Sterols) is an optimised blend of
Phospholipids, Phytosterols and vegetable
Lipids which forms lamellar O/W emulsions
for soft applications. This Biomimetic
structure is particularly suitable for sensitive
or stressed skins. Amisol™ Soft maintains the
protective function of the Stratum corneum,
reduces TEWL and optimises hydration. Ideal
for sensitive skin, baby, suncare and makeup applications.
Recommended use level: 3 - 6%
Amylomer® EMU PF
INCI: Aqua, Polyquaternium-75, Sodium
Lactate; Urea, Sodium Chloride, Lactic
Acid, Glycerin, Levulinic Acid, p-Anisic Acid)
is a conditioning agent with emulsifying
properties. Especially suited for leave-on and
rinse-off hair treatments. Improves combing,
gloss and manageability of hair. Supports the
water resistance of emulsions.
Recommended use level: 1 – 5%
Biophilic™
(INCI: BIOPHILIC™ H: Hydrogenated
Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic
Acid; BIOPHILIC™ S: Lecithin (and) C12-16
Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid) is a patented
natural lamellar O/W system based on the
emulsifying properties of Phospholipids
combined with other vegetable Lipids.
The lamellar emulsion mimics the Lipid
structure of the Stratum corneum for a
perfect affinity. It acts as a ‘second skin’
and therefore helps restore the cutaneous
barrier of damaged skin. Two grades exisit:
Biophilic™ H (hydrogenated Lecithin) and
Biophilic™ S (non-hydrogenated Lecithin
and so a chelating agent and anitoxidant is
required). The emulsion melts on the skin for
a sophisticated skin feel during application
and forms a restructuring film which reduces
TEWL.
Recommended use level: 3 - 6%
Dermosoft® DGMC
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate) is a coemulsifier that can be used as a deodorant
active ingredient due to its activity against
gram-positive bacteria.
Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%
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Dermofeel® easymuls
(INCI: PROPOSED: Sunflower Fatty Acids
Polyglyceryl-3 Esters Citrate; Helianthus Annuus
(Sunflower) Seed Oil) is a potent anionic emulsifier
made from high oleic Sunflower oil, Triglycerol
and Citric acid to effectively stabilise the oil-waterinterface. The origin of all components come from
renewable plant sources. The manufacturing
process uses environmentally friendly
condensation reactions and does not involve
any kind of alkoxylated species. Consequently,
Dermofeel® easymuls is PEG and PPG free. The
anionic nature combined with its unique molecular
structure furnishes Dermofeel® easymuls with
many interesting cosmetic properties.
Dermofeel® GSC
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) is a PEG-free
emulsifier, ideal for the prevention of phototoxical
effects in sun care products and products
exposed to sunlight. The high melting point
provides extra thermo-stability.
Recommended use level: 1 – 4%
Dermofeel® GSC palm oil free
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) is a PEG-free
emulsifier based on Rape Seed oil that is ideal for
the prevention of phototoxical effects in sun care
products and products exposed to sunlight. The
high melting point provides extra thermo-stability.
Recommended use level: 1 – 7%
Recommended use level: 1 – 4%
Dermofeel® G 10 L
Dermofeel® PO
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate) is a co-emulsifier
made from natural raw materials with excellent
cosmetic properties (see also Dermofeel® G 10 LW
for a 50% watery solution). Because of its excellent
eye and skin compatibility, its pleasant skin-feel
and its outstanding detergence, Dermofeel® G 10
L can be used for baby care products and face
cleansing, as well as an emulsifier for low-viscosity
O/W emulsions and roll-on emulsions.
Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%
Dermofeel® GMS 38
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) is a commonly used
vegetable based consistency enhancer and
stabiliser for O/W emulsions.
Recommended use level: 2 – 4%
Dermofeel® GMS 54
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) is a commonly used
vegetable based consistency enhancer and
stabiliser for O/W emulsions.
Recommended use level: 2 – 4%
Dermofeel® GMS 91
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) is a commonly used
vegetable based consistency enhancer and
stabiliser for O/W emulsions.
Recommended use level: 2 – 4%
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(INCI: Glyceryl Oleate) is a highly effective
emulsifier with outstanding consistency properties
for O/W and W/O preparations.
Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%
Dermofeel® PP
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate) is a highly effective
emulsifier. Due to its chemical structure it covers
a wide HLB-range and that causes a very large
stability of emulsions. Why not try this material in a
PEG-free self-emulsifying bath oil?
Recommended use level: 3 – 6%
Dermofeel® PS
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate) is a very effective
emulsifier. Due to its chemical structure it covers
a wide HLB-range to provide excellent stability to
emulsions. Because of its high melting point the
formed gel- and net-structures are also stable at
higher temperatures. Can be used in combination
with Dermosoft® Octiol to regulate viscosity.
Recommended use level: 2 – 4%
Dermorganics® GMS-SE
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate SE). Based only on
raw materials from Organic origin, this universal
anionic emulsifier is widely used for creams and
lotions. Ideal for products with higher viscosity,
rich skin feel and pleasant application properties.
Can be used to produce stable emulsions at pH
above 6.8. Enhances the ratio of organic raw
materials in organic product concepts.
Recommended use level: 6 – 8%
Emulmetik™
INCI: Lecithin/ Hydrogenated Lecithin) are
natural Lecithins and Phospholipids with various
Phosphatidylcholine contents. Used as coemulsifiers, wetting agents or active ingredients,
they improve all types of formulation with a unique
sensorial and natural approach. Emulmetik™
320 increases the longevity of fragrance and
enables the fragrance level to be reduced (good
for allergens). Emulmetik™ 320 is the alcohol-free
version that provides fragrance longevity (even
after washing), is naturally compliant (if using
essential oils) and provides an ultra-light texture.
Emulmetik™ 930 is best for wipes, make-up
removal and the reduction of pore size.
Recommended use level: 0.25 - 15%
Heliofeel™
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and)
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated
Lecithin) is a natural emulsifier for the formulation
of O/W emulsions. Easy-to-use, it is compatible
with a large variety of oils and forms particularly
stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes
and other destabilising agents. Polyvalent,
it allows the formulation of a wide range of
textures leaving a soft and velvety touch. Ideal
for sprayable to cream emulsions, wipes, sun
care (HeliofeelTM is not lamellar and so doesn’t
penetrate) and make-up applications.
Recommended use level: 3 - 6%
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Symbio®muls GC
(INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl
Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate) consists of Glyceryl
Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl
Caprylate, supplied in a small pellet format
for convenience and easy dosage. Glyceryl
Stearate Citrate is a well-known and powerful
anionic emulsifier. Cetearyl Alcohol is widely
used as a co-emulsifier and consistency
enhancer. Glyceryl Caprylate can be found in
many formulations and is used for its wetting
properties and antimicrobial effectiveness. This
product also provides a number of surprising
additional technical advantages, including
better dispersibility at lower temperatures
and quick formation of homogenous and
fine dispersions at temperatures of 40°C and
above. All components are produced from
sustainable materials and in accordance with
all relevant natural cosmetic standards. On
top of its excellent emulsifying properties,
Symbio®muls GC provides a basic antimicrobial
effect that enables you to lower the amount of
preservatives. In many cases, the additional use
of Dermosoft® products offers possibilities to
formulate without traditional preservatives.
Recommended use level: 3 – 6%
Emulsifiers W/O
Dermofeel® GO soft
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate) is a
natural food-approved emulsifier for W/O
formulations. In general, W/O concepts
are frequently used for Sun Care and
Baby products as well as for intensive
skin care, mature skin and protective
concepts. However, W/O products are
not very popular due to their sensorial
profile. The rich and caring concepts are
generally perceived as heavy and greasy
on the skin by the consumer. Dermofeel®
GO soft is a versatile W/O emulsifier with
a unique skin feel. It converts W/O creams
into soft and pleasant formulations that
are easily applied on the skin. The heavy
and traditional sensorial profile of W/O
formulations will soon be a thing of the past
if Dermofeel® GO soft is used. Dermofeel®
GO soft is also economic to use and the
concentration needed is very low.
Recommended use level: 1 – 2%
Dermofeel® PGPR
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate) is
an extremely effective emulsifier with
high skin compatibility for W/O emulsions
that contain up to 80% water. Its stability
against radical oxidations makes it a highly
interesting material for sun care products.
Recommended use level: 4 – 6%
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Dermofeel® PO
(INCI: Glyceryl Oleate) is a highly effective
emulsifier with outstanding consistency
properties for O/W and W/O preparations.
Recommended use level: 0.5 – 1%
Symbio®muls WO
(INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,
Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate,
Glyceryl Caprate, Cera Alba, Magnesium
Stearate, Aluminium Tristearate) is an
emulsifier blend for W/O emulsions based
on Dermofeel® PGPR. This 100% natural,
PEG-free W/O emulsifier is highly versatile
and very easy to use (one pot, hot or cold).
Cream to body milk formulations can be
easily produced.
Recommended use level: 5 – 10%
Gelling Agents
Ecogel™
(INCI: Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum
(and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan) is a
patented optimised combination of natural
origin ingredients derived from a green
process (contributing to the sustainable
preservation of the environment):
Lysophospholipids, Xanthan gum, Sclerotium
gum and Pullulan. Its performances make
it the first natural and organic Phospholipidbased gelling-emulsifying agent on the
market. It allows the creation of natural gelcreams with an ultra-soft and light skin feel.
Ecogel™offers an excellent silicone-like slip
ideal for skin, hair and lubricants. Electrolyte
tolerant.
Recommended use level: 0.3%: Skin feel
enhancer; 1%: Stabiliser and viscosity
adjuster for all kind of emulsions; 1.5-2%:
Main gelling and emulsifying agent for gelcreams.
Heliogel™
(INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
(and) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (and)
Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
(and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed
Oil) is a patented gelling ingredient with
emulsifying properties confered by the
presence of Sunflower Phospholipids.
It thickens within a wide pH range and
emulsifies all types of oil phases. Gel-creams
can be formulated with an innovative skin
feel, non-tacky and non-greasy. Heliogel™
is the solution to combine performance and
skin sensation. Ideal as a viscosity adjuster,
stabiliser and emulsifier for gel-creams (from
1%).
Recommended use level: 0.2 - 3%
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Lecigel™
(INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and)
Lecithin) is a gelling agent with emulsifying
properties that increases the stability of
formulas. Suitable for both cold and hot
processes, it also helps to adjust the viscosity
at the end of the formulation process. Easy
to use, it is compatible with most emulsifiers
and is stable over a wide range of pH
(up to pH 12). Especially adapted for the
formulation of gel-creams, it provides the
typical ‘Phospholipid touch’ with a cool, soft
and non-greasy skin feel.
Recommended use level: 0.2 - 4%
Interested?
Then please call one of our
team for more information...
Andrew Goodwin
Managing Director
T: 01344 397 768
M: 07969 078 557
E: [email protected]
Clare Goodwin
Technical Sales Director
T: 01344 397 768
M: 07899 662 727
E: [email protected]
W: infinity-ingredients.co.uk