1. style and fashion
2. beauty
3. hair care

Written By:
Danielle DeMarco
[email protected]
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Table of Contents
1. The Science of Hair
2. Causes of Hair Loss
3. STOP the damage!!
4. Understand and Embrace Your Natural Hair Type
5. Get a Fresh Start
6. Decide on Your Goals and Get a Starting Measurement
7. Start From the Inside Out
8. Increase Circulation
9. Deep Condition
10. Protection
11. Experimentation
12. Choose Your Cleansing Method
13. Conditioning
14. To Use Silicones or Not?
15. All About Oiling
16. Using the Right Brushes and Combs
17. Protective Styling
18. To Trim or Not to Trim
19. Shedding
20. A Mega-Secret: Mega Tek
21. Embarrassing Secret?! Monistat/Daktarin
22. Coconut Oil for Hair Health
23. Henna and Other Herbs
24. Cassia
25. Hair Growth Journey Checklist
1. The Science of Hair
The Origins of Hair
By week 22, a developing fetus has all of its hair follicles formed. At this stage of life
there are about 5 million hair follicles on the body. There are a total of one million on the
head, with roughly one hundred thousand of those follicles residing on the scalp. It is
estimated that blondes have roughly 146K follicles, brunettes roughly 100K, black hair
roughly 110K, redheads roughly 86K, Asians roughly 80-140K, and African American
roughly 50-110K.
We do not generate new hair follicles anytime during the course of our lives, so what you
are born with is what you have to work with. But if your growth rate is slower than
average, there are things you can do to speed it up and if you are experiencing hair loss,
there are things you can do to stimulate the follicles to start growing again.
Hair Follicles
Hair has two distinct structures - first, the follicle itself, which resides in the skin, and
second, the shaft, which is what is visible above the scalp.
The hair follicle is a tunnel-like segment of the epidermis that extends down into the
dermis. The structure contains several layers that all have separate functions. At the base
of the follicle is the papilla, which contains capillaries, or tiny blood vessels that nourish
the cells. The living part of the hair is the very bottom part surrounding the papilla, called
the bulb. The cells of the bulb divide every 23 to 72 hours, remarkably faster than any
other cell in the body.
Two sheaths, an inner and outer sheath, surround the follicle. These structures protect and
form the growing hair shaft. The inner sheath follows the hair shaft and ends below the
opening of a sebaceous (oil) gland, and sometimes an apocrine (scent) gland. The outer
sheath continues all the way up to the gland. A muscle called an erector pili muscle
attaches below the gland to a fibrous layer around the outer sheath. When this muscle
contracts, it causes the hair to stand up which also causes the sebaceous gland to secrete
oil.
The sebaceous gland is vital because it produces sebum, which conditions the hair and
skin. After puberty our body produces more sebum but as we age we begin to make less
sebum. Women have far less sebum production than men do as they age.
Hair Shafts
The hair shaft is made of a hard protein called keratin and is made in three layers. This
protein is actually dead, so the hair that you see is not a living structure. The inner layer is
the medulla. The second layer is the cortex and the outer layer is the cuticle. The cortex
makes up the majority of the hair shaft. The cuticle is a tightly formed structure made of
shingle-like overlapping scales. It is both the cortex and the medulla that holds the hair's
pigment, giving it its color.
Hair Growth Cycle
Hair on the scalp grows on average about .3 to .4 mm/day or about 6 inches per year. At
any given time, a random number of hairs will be in one of three stages of growth and
shedding: anagen, catagen, and telogen.
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Anagen: Anagen is the active phase of the hair. The cells in the root of the hair
are dividing rapidly. A new hair is formed and pushes the club hair (a hair that has
stopped growing or is no longer in the anagen phase) up the follicle and
eventually out. During this phase the hair grows about 1 cm every 28 days. Scalp
hair stays in this active phase of growth for two to six years.
Some people have difficulty growing their hair beyond a certain length because
they have a short active phase of growth. On the other hand, people with very
long hair have a long active phase of growth. This is affected by genetics, but can
also be due to poor hair care, scalp conditions, and certain health issues. Changing
the way you care for your hair and scalp can affect your growth rate.
The hair on the arms, legs, eyelashes, and eyebrows have a very short active
growth phase of about 30 to 45 days, explaining why they are so much shorter
than scalp hair.
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Catagen: The catagen phase is a transitional stage and about 3% of all hairs are in
this phase at any time. This phase lasts for about two to three weeks. Growth
stops and the outer root sheath shrinks and attaches to the root of the hair. This is
the formation of what is known as a club hair.
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Telogen: Telogen is the resting phase and usually accounts for 6% to 8% of all
hairs. This phase lasts for about 100 days for hairs on the scalp and longer for
hairs on the eyebrow, eyelash, arm, and leg. During this phase, the hair follicle is
completely at rest and the club hair is completely formed. Pulling out a hair in this
phase will reveal a solid, hard, dry, white material at the root. About 25 to 100
telogen hairs are shed normally each day.
2. Causes of Hair Loss
Some readers may not only be looking to boost hair growth rate to grow hair fast, but are
also experiencing the devastating affects of hair loss, and hoping to find ways to re-grow
lost hair.
Not all causes of hair loss are treatable or reversible, but some are. So let’s look at the
different causes of hair loss.
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Pattern baldness (androgenetic alopecia). In male- and female-pattern baldness,
the time of growth shortens, and the hairs are not as thick or sturdy. With each
growth cycle, the hairs become rooted more superficially and more easily fall out.
Heredity likely plays a key role.
A history of androgenetic alopecia on either side of your family increases your
risk of balding. Heredity also affects the age at which you begin to lose hair and
the developmental speed, pattern and extent of your baldness.
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Cicatricial (scarring) alopecia. This type of permanent hair loss occurs when
inflammation damages and scars the hair follicle. This prevents new hair from
growing. This condition can be seen in several skin conditions, including lupus
erythematosus or lichen planus. It's not known what triggers or causes this
inflammation.
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Alopecia areata. This is classified as an autoimmune disease, but the cause is
unknown. People who develop alopecia areata are generally in good health. A few
people may have other autoimmune disorders, including thyroid disease. Some
scientists believe that some people are genetically predisposed to develop alopecia
areata and that a trigger, such as a virus or something else in the environment, sets
off the condition. A family history of alopecia areata makes you more likely to
develop it. With alopecia areata, your hair generally grows back, but you may lose
and regrow your hair a number of times.
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Telogen effluvium. This type of hair loss is usually due to a change in your
normal hair cycle. It may occur when some type of shock to your system —
emotional or physical — causes hair roots to be pushed prematurely into the
resting state. The affected growing hairs from these hair roots fall out. In a month
or two, the hair follicles become active again and new hair starts to grow.
Telogen effluvium may follow emotional distress, such as a death in the family or
a physiological stress, such as a high fever, sudden or excessive weight loss,
extreme diets, nutritional deficiencies, surgery, or metabolic disturbances. Hair
typically grows back once the condition that caused it corrects itself, but it usually
take months.
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Traction alopecia. Excessive hairstyling or hairstyles that pull your hair too
tightly cause traction alopecia. If the pulling is stopped before there's scarring of
your scalp and permanent damage to the root, hair usually grows back normally.
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Poor nutrition. Having inadequate protein or iron in your diet or poor
nourishment in other ways can cause you to experience hair loss. Fad diets, crash
diets and certain illnesses, such as eating disorders, can cause poor nutrition.
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Medications. Certain drugs used to treat gout, arthritis, depression, heart
problems and high blood pressure may cause hair loss in some people. Taking
birth control pills also may result in hair loss for some women.
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Disease. Diabetes, thyroid conditions, lupus, and other illnesses can cause hair
loss.
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Medical treatments. Undergoing chemotherapy or radiation therapy may cause
you to develop alopecia. Under these conditions, healthy, growing (anagen) hairs
can be affected. After your treatment ends, your hair typically begins to regrow.
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Hormonal changes. Hormonal changes and imbalances can cause temporary hair
loss. This could be due to pregnancy, childbirth, discontinuation of birth control
pills, the onset of menopause, or an overactive or underactive thyroid gland.
The hair loss may be delayed by three months following a hormonal change, and
it'll take another three months for new hair to grow back. During pregnancy, it's
normal to have thicker, more luxuriant hair. It's also common to lose more hair
than normal about three months after delivery.
If a hormonal imbalance is associated with an overproduction of testosterone,
there may be a thinning of hair over the crown of the scalp. Correcting hormonal
imbalances may stop hair loss.
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Hair treatments. Chemicals used for dying, tinting, bleaching, straightening or
permanent waves can cause hair to become damaged and break off if they are
overused or used incorrectly. Overstyling and excessive and rough brushing also
can cause hair to fall out if the hair shaft becomes damaged.
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Scalp infection. Infections, such as ringworm, can invade the hair and skin of
your scalp, leading to hair loss. Once infections are treated, hair generally grows
back. Ringworm, a fungal infection, can usually be treated with a topical or oral
antifungal medication.
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Trichotillomania (hair-pulling disorder). Trichotillomania is a type of mental
illness in which people have an irresistible urge to pull out their hair, whether it's
from the scalp, their eyebrows or other areas of the body. Hair pulling from the
scalp often leaves them with patchy bald spots on the head, which they may go to
great lengths to disguise. Causes of trichotillomania are still being researched, and
no specific cause has yet been found.
If you are experiencing hair loss it is important to see a doctor to determine the possible
causes of the loss. Make sure to get a full workup to determine if illnesses, medications,
or hormonal issues are the culprit. If you suspect the cause is medical it is crucial to find
a doctor that will consider your hair loss as a valid symptom (and not just a vanity
complaint) and do the necessary testing to determine the cause and treatment plan.
The next step if you are experiencing hair loss is to follow this guide to determine how to
optimally care for your scalp and hair, in hopes of getting some or all of your hair to start
growing again.
3. STOP the Damage!!
Take a look at the damage checklist…are you guilty?
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Heat Styling (flat irons, curling irons, blow dryers)
Daily shampooing
Brushing hair when wet
Ripping through knots and tangles, rough brushing
Metal barrettes, rubber bands, claw clips or brushes/combs with rough edges
Chemical treatments (more on this one later)
If you are guilty of any (or all!) of the above, it’s best to stop. NOW! If you want to grow
long, healthy hair, you need to give these things up. Yes, there are some people who can
do all they want to their hair and still have long, thick, healthy locks…but if you were
one of those people, you wouldn’t be reading this book. So it’s time to make a decision –
if long hair is important to you, it’s time to start treating it gently.
While most of the above are easy fixes, the most difficult one will be in giving up heat
styling and/or chemical treatments.
I understand. It is very common for people to covet what they do not have, and in this I
mean, I know a great many people who have gorgeous curls and yearn for slick, stickstraight hair, or with beautiful chestnut hair dying (and dyeing) for light blond locks. And
there’s nothing wrong with that. I’m not opposed to changing the color or type of your
hair, by any means, but I will say that when you are trying to grow your hair long, you
will be fighting a losing battle if you are also damaging your hair chemically or with heat
in the process.
So, you must decide…if long hair is worth it to you, it’s time to make some changes.
4. Understand and Embrace Your Natural Hair Type
The first step is to figure out what your natural hair type is. In order to do so, you’ll need
to clarify your hair. I recommend Suave Daily Clarifying shampoo, but any will do.
Wash your hair thoroughly but gently and rinse well. Gently remove the excess water by
squeezing down the length of your hair but do NOT rub with a towel or wrap in a towel.
Do not comb or manipulate your hair in any way. Instead, drape a towel around your
shoulders and wait for your hair to air dry.
Then take a look at your hair – best if you can take a rear view photo, but you can also
use a mirror or two to get a good view. This is your natural hair type – the way your hair
naturally tends to go when you don’t do anything to it.
Use the following chart to classify your hair.
First classifier – Straight or Curly
The straight ones
1a – stick straight
1b – straight but with a slight body wave, just enough to add some volume, doesn’t look
wavy
1c – straight with body wave and one or two visible S-waves (e.g. nape of neck or
temples)
The wavy ones
2a – loose, stretched out S-waves throughout the hair
2b – shorter, more distinct S-waves (similar to waves from braiding damp hair)
2c – distinct S-waves and the odd spiral curl forming here and there
The curly ones
3a – big, loose spiral curls
3b – bouncy ringlets
3c – tight corkscrews
The really curly ones
4a – tightly coiled S-curls
4b – tightly coiled hair bending in sharp angles (Z-pattern)
Second classifier – What (most of) your individual strands look like
F – Fine: Thin strands that sometimes are almost translucent when held up to the
light. Shed strands can be hard to see even against a contrasting background.
Similar to hair found on many people of Scandinavian descent.
M – Medium: Strands are neither fine nor coarse. Similar to hair found on many
Caucasians.
C – Coarse: Thick strands that where shed strands usually are easily identified
against most backgrounds. Similar to hair found on many people of Asian, Hispanic
or native American descent.
Third classifier – Your overall volume of hair
Put your hair in a ponytail with as much hair as possible in it. Don’t bother with the
way it looks – the goal is to have most/all of your hair in there. If it means it sits
smack dab on top of your head, put it there.
Measure the circumference of the ponytail. If you have bangs and/or you can’t get
all of your hair in there adjust according to how much of your hair you have
measured.
i – thin (less than 2 inches/5 centimeters)
ii – normal (between 2-4 inches or 5-10 centimeters)
iii – thick (more than 4 inches/10 centimeters)
TIP: If you are having difficulty determining the thickness of individual hairs, this
might help:
Take a strand of hair from the back of your head. Roll the strand between your
thumb and index finger.
Fine Hair: Your hair is difficult to feel or it feels like an ultra-fine strand of silk.
Coarse Hair: Your hair feels hard and wiry. As you roll it back and forth, you may
actually hear it!
Medium Hair: Your hair feels like a cotton thread. You can feel it, but it isn’t stiff or
rough. It is neither fine or coarse.
Once you know what your natural hair type is, you can start working with the type
instead of against it.
If you find that your hair has more of a curl naturally than you’d thought before, you can
start to moisturize your hair more, dry more carefully, and try to encourage the curls. If
you find that your hair is naturally quite straight, you might be able to give up your flat
iron and blow dryer and use heat-free smoothers to encourage a sleek look.
Knowing your hair type can also help you determine what type of cleansing,
conditioning, and care routine you’d like to try.
5. Get a Fresh Start
If your hair is already damaged, your best bet is to start fresh by cutting the damage off.
At the very least, start your hair growth journey off by getting a trim. But if your hair has
split ends, is dry, frizzy, or fragile, cut off as much as you need to, to get to healthy ends.
This can be a very difficult step, I know, but it is well worth it to start off with healthy
hair ready to grow rather than fight the losing battle of trying to save damaged hair.
You’ll likely lose that damaged length to breakage along the way anyway, so you might
as well just start fresh.
Once you start growing, you can decide on whether to trim or not, which is covered in a
later chapter.
6. Decide on Your Goals and Get a Starting Measurement
Now it’s time to set your goals. Maybe you already have a specific goal length in mind,
or maybe your answer is, “As long as I can grow it!” Or it’s possible you don’t have an
ultimate goal in mind, but are just looking to grow your hair longer than you have before.
All of these work! And goal setting is a personal process. But I do have some advice.
If you have very short hair now and your ultimate goal is classic length, then it’s a good
idea to set shorter-term goals so that you can feel positive about the in-between steps to
getting there, rather than get discouraged at waiting years to even check off a goal.
No matter what you do to your hair, you can only increase your growth so much, and the
rest of your hair growth journey requires patience in order for you to enjoy the process, as
well as the end result. So having short term, attainable goals will keep you motivated
along the way!
If you are unfamiliar with the terms of hair length measurement, here’s a good list.
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Chin length: Just reaching the chin
Shoulder length: touching the shoulders
Collar bone length: touching the collar bone
Bra Strap length: length that reaches the bra strap
Waist length: when hair reaches the smallest part of your waist
Tail bone length: when hair reaches the end of your tail bone
Classic length: when hair reaches just below your rear end
Hip Length: when hair reaches your upper hips and is below
Classic Thigh length: when hair reaches your mid-thigh
Knee length, calf length, ankle length: when hair reaches this specific part of
your body
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Floor length: When hair length touches the floor (without bending over, of
course!)
Next up, is to learn how to consistently measure your hair.
There are a few different ways to measure your hair, and none are more right than the
other, but some ways just work better for some people than others.
1. You can measure roughly by using the measurements listed above.
2. You can wear a striped shirt, or measure against “landmarks” such as a mole or
tattoo on your back.
3. Or you can use a tape measure. If you choose this method, you will want to comb
or brush your hair straight (decide ahead of time if you’ll measure wet or dry and
be consistent), then put the end of the tape measure where your hair and your
forehead meet (at your hairline, right between your eyebrows for consistency).
Then let the tape measure go over the top of your head and down your back.
Measure the longest length of your hair.
If your hair is curly or wavy, you may find it more consistent to measure your hair when
wet, and “stretch” it while measuring. My hair is straight, and I still do this to be as
accurate as possible.
Now you can chose whether you’d like to measure weekly, monthly, quarterly, etc. This is
up to you. If you measure too frequently and don’t see results you may get discouraged.
But you do want to measure enough that you can check off your mini-goals and be
wow’ed by your progress!
You can write your measurements down in a notebook, take photos, keep a blog, or a
spreadsheet. I recommend using this awesome spreadsheet (click here to go to the page
where you can download).
It includes estimations of how long it will take you to reach certain goals and even
estimates your terminal length (the length at which your hair will naturally stop growing).
You may also like to take “hair photos” to really be able to compare and see progress.
This is a lot of fun and very rewarding!
Simply comb or brush your hair neatly and either set the timer on your camera to take a
photo of your back view from straight on (be sure to set the camera in the same location
for each picture, for accuracy) or have someone help you and take the photos for you. Be
sure to date the photos when you save or print them!
TAKE ACTION: Take your first measurement and log it, set your mini-goal (atainable in
a reasonable amount of time) and take your starting photo. We are now
“ready to grow”!!
FUN STUFF: If you’d like to get a glimpse at what your hair might look like at your goal
length, check out this thread at the Long Hair Community, where you can post a photo of
yourself and other members will gladly photoshop your hair into your goal length. The
Long Hair Community is one of the nicest online forums I’ve ever had the pleasure of
being a part of, and it is free to join. You’ll find lots of great information, kindred spirits,
people with your same hair type, and you’ll likely make some friends. I suggest you
check it out! Enjoy!
7. Start From the Inside Out
If you are wanting your body to concentrate effort on growing healthy, beautiful hair, you
need to make sure that everything else – all of the important body functions – are
working well and you are in general good health. This means eating healthy, drinking
plenty of water (plenty!), getting enough rest, reducing stress, having any medical issues
treated, and taking supplements where needed.
My suggestion if you are experiencing unusually slow growth, excessive shedding,
overall brittle and fragile hair (not caused by heat or chemical damage) or any health
concerns you haven’t yet treated, is to see your doctor and get a full check up. Your
general health is important, because if your body is spending all of its energy fighting a
medical issue, it has no “free time” to spend on growing gorgeous hair. Also, there are
many medical conditions that affect hair growth as a side effect.
So if you have any medical concerns, please start out by seeing your physician. Don’t be
afraid to speak up about hair loss as a symptom, and if you feel that you have an
underlying issue, be sure to stand up for your rights as a patient to be taken seriously until
the problem is resolved.
Once you are cleared as being healthy overall, it’s time to focus on doing what we can to
give our body that extra boost it might need to be able to devote extra energy to growing
hair – fast, healthy and beautiful.
Sleep and Stress Control
Get enough sleep, so that you feel rested. Take care of yourself. Reduce the amount of
stress in your life. Whether you choose to try yoga (which is what I recommend),
meditation, a walk or hike in nature, reading, seeing a therapist, or engaging in other
activities you enjoy that relax you, please know that stress has a direct effect on the
quality of your hair.
Generally about three months after a particularly stressful event in one’s life, you’ll
experience a shedding of hair. This can be quite traumatic and stressful in and of itself. It
is a natural occurrence, and will usually average itself out over time, that normally does
not affect the thickness of hair circumference long term. However, when you are paying
particular attention to your hair during a hair growth journey, this can be very upsetting
and can lead to ongoing stress and excessive shedding. So it’s best to avoid unnecessary
stress and to manage the stresses that can’t be avoided.
Drink Enough Water
The Institute of Medicine advises that men consume roughly 3 liters (about 13 cups) of
total beverages a day and women consume 2.2 liters (about 9 cups) of water per day. This
is more important than you might think. Water makes up approximately one fourth of the
weight of a strand of hair and when hair has the proper amount of water, it will respond
by being supple, and shiny. Water is essential for proper hair growth.
Proper Nutrition
What you put into your body has a direct effect on how your body functions. Constantly
eating junk food and skimping on the healthy stuff will not help you to grow gorgeous
hair. While you do not have to become a health food addict or completely overhaul your
eating habits, I do suggest making sure you eat a variety of healthy foods and don’t
overindulge.
There are some foods that do additional hair growing duty, so if you can add them into
your regular diet, you’ll give your hair an extra boost.
Healthy Hair Food No. 1: Salmon
When it comes to foods that pack a beauty punch, it's hard to beat salmon. Loaded with
omega-3 fatty acids, this high-quality protein source is also filled with vitamin B-12 and
iron.
Essential omega-3 fatty acids are needed to support scalp health and a deficiency can
result in a dry scalp and dull hair.
If you are a vegetarian, add one or two tablesppons of ground flaxseed in your daily diet
for omega-3s.
Healthy Hair Food No. 2: Dark Green Vegetables
Spinach, like broccoli and Swiss chard, is an excellent source of vitamins A and C, which
your body needs to produce sebum. The oily substance, secreted by your hair follicles, is
the body's natural hair conditioner.
Dark green vegetables also provide iron and calcium.
Healthy Hair Food No. 3: Beans
Legumes like kidney beans and lentils should be an important part of your hair-care diet.
Not only do they provide plentiful protein to promote hair growth, but ample iron, zinc,
and biotin. While rare, biotin deficiencies can result in brittle hair.
Healthy Hair Food No. 4: Nuts
Brazil nuts are one of nature's best sources of selenium, an important mineral for the
health of your scalp.
Walnuts contain alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid that may help condition your
hair. They are also a terrific source of zinc, as are cashews, pecans, and almonds. A zinc
deficiency can lead to hair shedding, so make sure nuts are a regular on your healthy hair
menu.
Healthy Hair Food No. 5: Poultry
Chickens and turkeys may have feathers, but the high-quality protein they provide will
help give you the healthy hair you crave.
Poultry also provides iron with a high degree of bioavailability, meaning your body can
easily reap its benefits.
Healthy Hair Food No. 6: Eggs
Eggs are one of the best protein sources you can find.
They also contain biotin and vitamin B-12, which are important beauty nutrients.
Healthy Hair Food No. 7: Whole Grains
Whole grains, including whole-wheat bread and fortified whole-grain breakfast cereals,
give you a hair-healthy dose of zinc, iron, and B vitamins.
A whole-grain snack can also be a great go-to food when your energy is zapped halfway
through the afternoon, and you've still got hours to go before dinner.
Healthy Hair Food No. 8: Oysters
Oysters provide zinc -- a powerful antioxidant.
You can also get zinc from beef and lamb.
Healthy Hair Food No. 9: Low-Fat Dairy Products
Low-fat dairy products like skim milk and yogurt are great sources of calcium, an
important mineral for hair growth. They also contain whey and casein, two high-quality
protein sources.
For some healthy hair foods "to-go," try throwing a yogurt or cottage cheese cup in your
bag when you head out in the morning to snack on later in the day. You can even boost
their hair benefits by stirring in a couple of tablespoons of ground flaxseeds or walnuts
for omega-3 fatty acids and zinc.
Healthy Hair Food No. 10: Carrots
Carrots are an excellent source of vitamin A, which promotes a healthy scalp along with
good vision.
Since a healthy scalp is essential for a shiny, well-conditioned head of hair, you'd be wise
to include carrots in your diet as snacks or toppings on your salad.
Supplementation
Let’s talk about the supplements that are important to the hair growth process, and their
sources. Ideally, we should eat a healthy varied diet full of all of the vitamins and
minerals our body needs…but in reality we often fall short and supplementation can fill
those gaps. Here are some power players:
Protein
More than 90 percent of your hair is made up of protein, so you need to have enough
protein in your diet to support hair growth. Fortunately, most people in the United States
get plenty of protein naturally from their diet. Foods such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs, and
dairy products are high in protein. Vegetarians can get protein from plant sources such as
soybeans, seeds, and nuts.
Beta Carotene
This antioxidant can help your body synthesize protein, may encourage hair growth, and
may help prevent hair loss. Look for it in lots of fruits and vegetables, especially orange
ones.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A fosters scalp health. Many orange fruits and vegetables — cantaloupe,
apricots, squash, sweet potatoes, and carrots — are good sources of vitamin A, as is
broccoli.
B Vitamins
The nutrients in this family of vitamins, often called B-complex vitamins, may help
promote hair growth and prevent hair loss and breakage. Vitamin B3 (niacin) may
nourish hair follicles, while vitamins B5, B6, and B12 may prevent both hair loss and
premature graying. B vitamins can be found in poultry, beef, fish, eggs, whole grains,
beans, sunflower seeds, peas, nuts, leafy green vegetables, and fortified breads and
cereals.
Biotin
A biotin deficiency can leave your scalp itchy and scaly. To help keep your scalp healthy,
choose biotin-rich meats, fish, eggs, dairy foods, nuts, whole grains, and molasses.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C helps your body absorb iron. It also helps keep your blood vessels healthy,
helps prevent hair breakage, and promotes hair growth. All the citrus fruits — grapefruit,
oranges, lemons, limes, tangerines, and so on — are high in vitamin C, as are berries and
melons.
Vitamin E
This antioxidant vitamin helps your cells repair themselves and facilitates your body's
synthesis of protein; it also encourages hair growth and aids in circulation. It is plentiful
in green vegetables, olive oil, whole grains, beans, nuts, and avocados.
Vitamin K
This vitamin can promote hair health. Find it in seafood, eggs, liver, dairy products, green
vegetables, figs, cabbage, oatmeal, yogurt, and wheat.
MSM
Methyl-Sulfonyl-Methane (MSM) is a naturally occurring sulfur compound found in
every plant and animal tissue. It's used in the formation of collagen, creates flexible
bonds between cells, is helpful for arthritis and produces strong, healthy hair, skin and
nails.
Saw Palmetto
Saw Palmetto extract is rich in fatty acids and phytosterols. It is thought to be a natural
DHT blocker (DHT is a cause for hair loss).
So how do you know which you need to take and how much?? Do you
really need to take a handful of pills each day??
A simple solution is to take Hair Essentials. Click the link to read the full ingredient list
and amazing reviews.
I recommend Hair Essentials because:
a) I use it myself (three capsules once per day and I’ve got a mega-power-pack of
hair growth awesomeness),
b) it works for both men AND women,
c) the reviews are real and current
d) and best of all there is a 90 Day Money Back Guarantee
So you really have absolutely nothing to lose by trying Hair Essentials, and it’s a donefor-you solution to figuring out which supplements you should take and how much.
For a one-two punch to really boost my hair growth from the inside out, I also take
Nioxin Recharging Complex. This is a once daily supplement that is rich in
antioxidants, marine concentrates, B vitamins and niacinamide.
Please make sure to check with your doctor or pharmacist before starting any new
supplements, but I definitely suggest that if you are serious about boosting your hair
growth or re-growing lost/thinning hair, you make supplements a part of your routine.
I’ve tried any number of “hair vitamins” and mixing and matching on my own, and the
most reliable, and remarkable results come from a combination of Hair Essentials and
Nioxin Recharging Complex.
Take Action: Start taking Hair Essentials and Nioxin Recharging Complex to fuel your
hair growth from the inside out.
Note: For those of you wishing to try something a bit controversial, please see the bonus
report on Diatomaceous Earth For Hair Growth.
8. Increase Circulation
Increasing the flow of blood to your follicles has been proven to increase the rate at
which your hair grows. Get your blood pumping, get those endorphins flowing, and get
growing.
Increase the circulation in your body by getting regular exercise. Remember, start with a
healthy body to get healthy hair.
Targeted increase of circulation by doing
regular scalp massage is the
key to growing the best hair your body is capable of.
This may seem too simple of a solution, and it may not WOW you like a $300 system
claiming to grow your hair overnight…but it’s the honest truth.
Nightly scalp massage WILL increase the productivity of your follicles and make a
noticeable difference in your hair growth rate.
HOW TO DO A PROPER SCALP MASSAGE
•
Start at the base of your neck, keep your fingers together and with your
fingers and thumb of each hand, use light pressure and knead the muscles at
the back of your neck, for about 30 seconds until you feel an "opening up"
and relaxation.
•
Move your fingers slowly toward the crown of your head, making little
circles as you go. These circles should not "scrub" the scalp (or rub against
your hair). If you have the right amount of pressure, the scalp will move
under your fingers with the circular motion, over your skull. As you do this,
allow your hand to spread so that the thumbs stay just behind your ears as
the fingers advance toward the crown. Relax and enjoy this process, don't
hurry - it should take a few minutes and you should start to feel a tingling.
•
You can press a bit harder now, as you move your thumbs in circles toward
your temples, keeping the fingers squarely on the crown.
•
When your thumbs are on your temples, begin to move your fingertips over
the top of your head, toward your hairline using the same circles. Take your
time and massage all along your hairline, lifting your hair up, if need be, to
get to your scalp. Remember, do not scrub your scalp, instead use the pads of
your fingers and gentle pressure to move your scalp around in a circular
motion.
•
Now put your head between your knees to increase the blood flow to your
follicles, and use your fingertips to gently tug on your hair at the roots. This
process is very gentle, just lifting your hair a bit - do not pull hard or be
rough. When you have done this to the top, sides, and back, sit back up
slowly and then rest for a minute.
•
Finally, plant the fingers firmly on the scalp with your thumbs at your
temples, fingers splayed over the top of the head, and start a back-and-forth
vibration of the scalp over the skull. Move your fingers over the back of your
head, and finish off with a few seconds of kneading the back of your neck.
Then quickly tap once all over your head with the very tips of your fingers so
that the touch feels like gentle rain.
•
Smooth your index and middle fingers a couple of times over your forehead,
from the center out, and then draw them over the eyebrows twice, to release
any tension in the face.
You will feel relaxed, restored, and your scalp will be tingly. This is the blood nourishing
your follicles and urging them to grow, grow, grow!
If you feel intimidated by the process, don't - give it a try and after a few times of
following the directions, you will start to intuitively remember the process, until it comes
naturally.
Repeat this at least once a day. I enjoy doing it while sitting and watching TV in the
evening, or as a way to relax just before bed. If you can do it also in the morning, you'll
see even more noticeable results.
9. Deep Condition
This is a step you can start right away, and inexpensively continue with, that will visibly
improve your hair’s condition, no matter what length your hair is at now.
I'm going to share with you the absolute best deep conditioning moisture treatment...and
no, it isn't a fancy salon product or a system that will cost you a fortune. It's a homemade
recipe, with items you may just have in your home right now (and if not, you can easily
pick them up at your local grocery or pharmacy).
You will need:
1 part Clear Aloe Vera Gel (I recommend Fruit of the Earth) *
1 part Honey (any kind)
4 parts Conditioner *
**Note, I use the term "part" to allow for you to make as much or as little of this
conditioning treatment as you need or want, and still have the proper ratio. Also, so that
you can make this without having to use conventional measuring utensils if you do not
want to. So you can, for instance, use 1 spoonful of aloe, 1 spoonful of honey, and 4
spoonfuls of conditioner. Or 1/4 cup of aloe, 1/4 cup of honey, and 1 cup of conditioner.
And so on. You can adjust as you like.**
Heat in the microwave for a few seconds until it's warm (not hot!), then apply to wet or
dry hair (especially the ends). Cover hair with a shower cap/shopping bag/clingy food
wrap/whatever, and let it sit for as long as you have time for (30 minutes to overnight).
Rinse out, do not shampoo.
* You can experiment with your favorite conditioner or what you have on hand, but you'll
get the best results if you try to find a conditioner that has "moisture" in its name or
description, and no protein or ingredients that end in 'cone.
Some that I suggest are:
Nature's Gate Herbal Conditioner
Suave Aloe Vera Conditioner
Suave Naturals Chamomile
Banana babyfood or a smushed up banana
VO5 Tea Therapy Calming Chamomile
VO5 Free Me Freesia
Aussie Mega Conditioner
Dove Damage Therapy Moisture Conditioner
Matrix Biolage Conditioning Balm
* It's important to find clear aloe vera gel - you'll usually find this near the
suntan/sunburn items, but do not get the kind that is blue or green or has any additives, go
for the clear and pure variety.
Believe me, your hair will thank you for it! This is an amazing moisture treatment that
will do wonders for hair in any condition. When trying to grow your hair, it is imperative
to keep it in healthy condition. Doing this treatment regularly (once per month or even
once per week if you need it) will improve the condition of your hair
10. Protection
Now is the time to start treating your hair like the delicate treasure it is. When your hair is
longer, the ends will have lived many years, and suffered years’ worth of damage. With
shorter hair styles, regular trimming cuts away this damage, but when you are growing
long hair you need to minimize the damage instead.
Chlorine and Salt Water
Give your hair a good soaking in fresh water before you swim, and if possible use a deep
conditioner and then cover your hair with a swim cap. Wash your hair with a chelating
shampoo as quickly as you can afterwards, and at the very least give it a good rinse in
fresh water after exposure.
Sun and Wind
If you are going to be out in the sun for an extended period of time, either use a UV
protectant or cover your hair. Consider using a deep conditioner and taking advantage of
the heat to help it soak in.
If you are going to be in windy conditions, braid or bun your hair, or wrap it up in a scarf
or under a hat. Nothing causes split ends like hair flapping in the wind!
Wet Hair
Don’t brush your hair when it is wet and don’t rub it with the towel, instead gently pat it
and let it air dry before combing and untangling. Never rip your brush through your hair
or forcibly try to pull out tangles or knots.
Always gently detangle, using hair safe combs and brushes, start from the ends and work
your way up. Treat your hair like precious, fine antique lace.
Also, do NOT use hot water on your hair. Wash in as cool water as you can comfortably
handle and rinse in as cold as you can stand. This will close the cuticle and leave it
smooth and flat, giving you shinier, more manageable hair.
Long Hair Sabotage
Be wary of things like tangles while you sleep, or catching your hair under your purse
strap or backpack, or rubbing against the back of your chair.
These things all cause breakage and split ends, and will sabotage your hair growth efforts.
Protective styling during sleep, such as a bun, braid or satin sleep cap or pillow case will
prevent tangling overnight.
Protective styling such as buns, braids, and up-dos will protect your hair during the day.
As your hair gets longer, wearing it loose will subject it to the sabotage of wind, tangling,
getting caught in things, etc. – so be prepared to wear your hair up as often as you can to
ensure the longest growth.
Drying Out
Do not over-cleanse your hair. Most people with long hair do not wash their hair every
day. Some do not even use shampoo. Consider cutting back on your cleansing schedule
and alternative methods of cleansing your hair.
The Two Week Rule
If you are ever tempted to cut – whether it be because of an awkward stage of growth that
is driving you crazy or a tempting trendy hair style or just a sequence of bad hair days –
heed the “two week rule”.
Simply put, when considering cutting your hair, take at least two weeks to think it
through before going through with it.
During a hair growth journey it is natural to be tempted to give up and cut, for lots of
reasons. It’s completely normal. But there is nothing worse than giving in to an
impetuous temptation and thoroughly regretting it just a few minutes afterward.
So, while there is nothing wrong with changing your mind on a goal length, deciding to
go with a trendy short style instead of growing like you’d planned, or just deciding to cut
for whatever reason, just please take two weeks to make sure that is what you’d like to
do.
11. Experimentation
I just want to take a moment to point out a very important factor when searching for your
optimal hair care routine: experimentation.
I can't stress this enough: there just simply is no ONE SOLUTION that will work for
everyone.
What works for me might not work for you, what worked for me six months ago might
no longer apply as the seasons change, or my hair grows longer, or for many other
reasons.
So even with the best of advice, and even knowing what works for a lot of other people,
the one thing you have to put in when trying to maximize your hair growth, regrow lost
hair, stop shedding, or improve the quality of your hair, is the time to try things out.
My suggestion to you is to give at least 1 month, and preferably 3 months, to each new
thing you try. Trying something new for one week and giving up because you don't see
immediate results, just isn't going to work and it will actually waste your time and money,
and just leave you frustrated.
If you are switching from daily sulfate shampoos to CO (conditioner only) or natural
shampoos or tea rinses, you'll probably go through a period of "the greasies" while your
scalp realizes it doesn't have to overproduce sebum to counteract the harsh surfactants
anymore. This is natural, and after a few weeks your scalp will slow down the sebum
production and your hair and scalp will thank you for it! But if you didn't go through the
greasie stage, you'd never get to healthier, beautiful hair.
If you are starting out with oiling or a boar bristle brush, same thing, you may end up
with the greasies while adjusting. You'll soon figure out just how little oil you need and
your hair will soon adjust to the new routine. In the meantime, only oil or brush with your
BBB before wash day, and experiment on weekends or days where you can stand to have
a "bad hair day". Although it isn’t what’s normally considered pretty, greasy hair - from
sebum or natural oils - is actually healthy, protected hair. While you don't want to walk
around like that all of the time, it does make for a nice natural conditioning treatment
when it happens.
If you are trying a growth stimulator, you'll need to give it at least one month to see how
things are going. The only time I suggest stopping a new treatment before at least one
month (preferably three), is when you experience increased shedding, breakage, or
excessive dryness, directly related to the treatment. If this happens, I suggest
discontinuing use, treating your scalp gently for a few weeks, and either trying something
different, or giving it one more trial. Otherwise, though, you cannot expect anything that
is supposed to increase your growth rate to work overnight. Nothing will, and when
growing hair patience is truly a virtue. So give your new treatments time to do their
thing.
If, after three months, you do not notice the results you were looking for, or are not happy
with the way your hair is reacting to a treatment, it's time to discontinue use and move on
to a new experiment.
When using a treatment meant to regrow lost hair, you need to give it at least three
months, preferably six, to see if you notice new growth. It may seem like forever while
you are waiting, but once you give it time and see a halo of new baby hairs, it will be well
worth it. And if you do not stick it out and give up before three to six months, you'll never
know if it would have worked for you. Put the time in. This is your gorgeous future head
of hair we're talking about.
When starting new supplements - like Hair Essentials, which is what I use - you need to
give it at least three months. The fact is, when changing your hair growth cycle from
within, with supplements, it takes time for them to take effect. And it takes even longer
for you to visibly see those results. So as long as you are feeling good, and have no
adverse reaction to something new you are trying, please be patient and give it time.
I wish I could tell you that my secret was an overnight magic potion that works on
everyone. Of course, if that were true, I'd be selling it and making millions! ;) But
seriously, my hair growth journey has taken years so far, and I still have about two years
to go to get to my goal length. To get long, healthy hair or to regrow hair you've lost, you
really need patience along the way.
But consider this: if you do nothing, your hair will continue to grow as it has been. But
what brought you to purchase Long Hair Secrets in the first place? Are you hoping to
speed up your growth? Stop excessive shedding? Regrow lost hair? Thicken your hair
up? Make it shinier and healthier? Obviously you're looking to make changes.
If you experiment along the way, and follow the steps in this book, you will find the key
to improving your hair's texture, stopping your shedding or breakage, or speeding up the
growth cycle. And you may even have fun while doing it. Some people really enjoy
trying out new "experiments" and picking up a new product and giving it a try.
Remember: the key here is take action - don't just read about it, if it sounds like
something you want to try, take action and start now! Give it the time it needs to start
working, and evaluate your results (I recommend using the spreadsheet and a journal to
keep track)!
Experiment, experiment, experiment!
12. Choose Your Cleansing Method
Traditional Shampoo
If you feel your current shampoo is working for you, and you aren’t experiencing itchy,
flaky or sore scalp, or excessive shedding, then stick to it.
My only suggestion here would be to cut back on shampooing. If you are an every day
shampooer, cut back to every other day, and just condition from the ears down on the “off
“ days. If you can, try to cut back even further to twice per week, or even once per week
if you can.
The truth is, hair just does not need to be stripped bare and dry to be “clean”. In fact,
you’ll often find that overcleansing can result in greasy hair because your scalp ramps up
its sebum production to counteract all of the harsh cleansing.
So just cut back. Remember, when trying something new with your hair, you may
experience an awkward period of adjustment for a few weeks – in this case, you may
experience “the greasies” as your scalp has to adjust its sebum production down a bit.
Bear with it, and in two weeks you’ll see an improvement.
CWC – Condition Wash Condition
This process is for those of you who are happy with the traditional wash/condition routine
but need a bit more conditioning on a routine basis. If your ends are dry or frizzy, this
system is for you.
CWC means you will condition (using a light, inexpensive conditioner from the ears
down), then wash (apply the shampoo of your choice to your scalp and gently massage
in), rinse both shampoo and conditioner out (the length of your hair will be cleaned by
the suds running down during rinse), then condition again from the ears down using a
thicker, richer conditioner (I recommend Biolage Conditioning Balm).
CO – Condition Only
If you have issues with extremely dry hair, or a dry, flaky, sore scalp, or excessive
shedding you may actually have an allergy to sulfates. A large percentage of the
population is allergic to sulfates, which are used in most mainstream cleansers (facial
wash, shampoo, etc.).
CO means you will wet your hair, use a substantial amount of a light, inexpensive
conditioner (I recommend Suave, VO5, White Rain, etc.) and work gently into your scalp
and down the length of your hair. Use enough that your hair is nicely coated. Let this sit
for about five to ten minutes, you can use a shower cap if you’d like. Then gently
massage your scalp, and rinse with cool water. You can follow with a richer conditioner
and rinse, if you choose.
Sulfate Free
If you want to use a shampoo, but suspect a sulfate allergy, there are now many options
for sulfate free shampoos.
I recommend Kiss My Face, Aubrey Organics or JASON products, as well as the Whole
Foods store brand.
Sulfate free shampoos are gentle and work well for a lot of different hair types, but keep
in mind that if you use conditioners or styling products with silicones in them, you will
most likely need to use a clarifying shampoo (with sulfates) at least once per month to get
rid of silicone build up.
Shampoo Bars
Shampoo bars are sulfate free, gentle and all natural. For the absolute best in quality,
scents and variety, I highly recommend Chagrin Valley, and since they are the experts, I
will direct you to their FAQ for more information.
Other Methods
There are other methods, including using Water Only, Sebum Only (no cleansing or
wetting at all), soapnuts, etc. that you can experiment with, as well, to see what works
best for you.
For recommendations, please see the Long Hair Secrets Shop.
13. Conditioning
An essential step to growing long hair is to make sure it is well conditioned. While you
will want to scale back on your cleansing routine and stretch the time between washes,
you will never want to skimp on the amount of conditioning you do.
The hair from your scalp to about ear or chin length will generally not need to be
conditioned. If you are not washing daily, then this hair is not really being dried out or
susceptible to damage (unless from heat or chemicals, which hopefully you have given up
or cut back on).
In healthy hair, daily conditioning from ear length down is sufficient. On your days when
you are not washing your hair, still use a conditioner on the length.
If you are going days without not only washing, but also wetting your hair, you can either
go with out conditioning altogether or use a light oiling (covered in a later chapter) or a
leave in conditioner. I recommend Giovanni Direct.
If you notice split ends, white dots at the end of your hair or frizzy, Velcro-like ends, you
will need to pay extra attention. You may choose to oil your ends at night, use a silicone
serum to “seal up” the split ends when styled, use an intense conditioner, such as Biolage
Conditioning Balm, or a combination of any or all of these.
If your hair feels crunchy, dry, brittle, or snappy, you need extra moisture. Do the deep
conditioning treatment from Chapter 7 immediately, and repeat weekly until your hair is
in better shape.
You will need to experiment to find the right conditioner for your hair. You may choose
to go with silicone conditioners (which give your hair better “slip” which means it is
slippery and shiny) or without, you may choose to condition with lots of inexpensive
“light” conditioners or use a sparing amount of thicker, richer conditioners. A
combination of all of the above is also a choice.
For recommendations, please see the Long Hair Secrets Shop.
14. To Use Silicones or Not?
There are two sides to this debate among long hair enthusiasts, and each side will give
you a really strong argument.
Those who are against silicone use say that they just coat the hair (which is true) and
“mask” the damage, but don’t do anything to actually improve your hair (which is
debatable). Some even say that long term use will actually damage your hair (highly
debatable, and I personally doubt it).
Those who are for silicone use say that if their hair looks better while using them, then so
they should be used.
My opinion on this, is that the choice to use silicones, oils, or a combination of the two is
unique to each individual and should be made after doing some experimentation.
If you currently use a conditioner or styling aid (usually a gloss or sealer) with silicones,
and you are happy with the result, then continue using it. If you are experimenting with
other cleansing types (sulfate free, shampoo bars, CO) just remember to use a clarifying
shampoo once per month or when you notice your hair is starting to look a weighed
down.
There is no reason to think that just because you want to have long hair, you need to
abandon all mainstream hair care techniques, so stick with what works for you. However,
if you find you’d like to experiment with other smoothing/glossing techniques such as
using oils, then give each trial at least a month of use before deciding if it works for you.
I recommend the Moroccan Oil line. Their products combine silcones and argan oil. They
do not weigh your hair down, are not oily or sticky, and do not build up.
If you have thin or light colored hair, I especially recommend their Moroccan Oil Light,
which is formulated to leave thin or light colored hair luxuriously shiny without weighing
it down or making it look greasy. This is what I personally use.
16. All About Oiling
Choose Your Technique
There are many different ways to use oils for your hair, both to increase hair growth and
to improve your hair’s condition.
Scalp Treatment During Massage
You can very lightly coat your fingertips with the oil of your choice as you do your
nightly scalp massage routine. If you scent your oil with something you enjoy, this is
even nicer.
Deep Scalp Treatment Before Washing
Use a liberal amount of your chose oil and thoroughly soak your scalp during your
nightly massage – or at least an hour before a wash – and finish up by coating your hair
from root to ends, then leave anywhere from an hour to overnight, and wash out with
your chosen cleansing method.
Oil in Lieu of Conditioner
Use just a tiny drop of oil (or a tiny scrape of coconut oil, since it is solid at room
temperature) and rub between your palms until they have a slight sheet to them – then
take your hair between your palms, starting at your ears and run your hands down the
length of your hair. Continue to do this, concentrating on the ends, until your hair is
lightly and evenly coated.
You can do this when your hair is wet or dry, and you may have to experiment with type
of oil and amount in order to make your hair smooth, soft and shiny, but not oil.
With this method, less is always best.
Oils in Deep Conditioning Treatments
You may want to take a day on the weekend – or whenever you have a free day to spend
at home – and just soak your hair in oil for as long as you can (throw it up into a pony
tail, bun or under a shower cap) and then wash, for the ultimate in deep treatment and
pampering.
Choose Your Oil
Africa's Best Herbal Oil
•
Has many wonderful oils such as walnut, olive, sesame, jojoba, sweet almond,
and carrot seed oil - most of which are more expensive when bought alone.
• It's inexpensive, so you can use it liberally as both a scalp oil and to oil your hair
before a wash.
• Has a baby powder scent that some people find comforting, while others find it
overpowering.
• You can purchase this oil on Amazon, but it is also usually found in Walmart,
Target, etc.
Some would say that this next oil is a miracle oil when it comes to hair regrowth - and I
have to personally agree. I actually not only use this as my scalp oil on a regular basis,
but I also use it on my face nightly. And when I don't use it, my Mom always notices and
asks me if I've stopped using the Emu oil - it makes that much of a noticeable difference
in my skin - she says it makes my skin glowing and soft.
Emu Oil
•
Both human skin (and scalp) and emu oil have no phospholipids - which makes
emu oil highly penetrating.
• Emu oil is anti-inflammatory and bacteriostatic which may be why it stimulates
hair growth.
• It is non-comedogenic (won't clog your pores) and absolutely non-irritating. It is
as safe for sensitive skin as water.
• A little goes a long way, it is incredibly moisturizing.
• Be sure that you are purchasing pure emu oil.
A definite long hair care (not so) secret is this next oil, which is part of almost every
"long hair care arsenal":
Unrefined Coconut Oil
•
•
•
•
As a pre-wash conditioner, Coconut Oil can prevent protein loss.
As must as a pre-color deep treatment (coat your hair in coconut oil and leave on
for at least an hour, apply hair color/bleach right over the coconut oil - it will aid
in dye uptake and actually prevent damage from the peroxide). I don't recommend
that you color or bleach, but if you must - then coconut oil is essential!
Can be taken internally as well to promote overall health and hair growth (either
by cooking with it or taking a spoonful daily).
Is versatile, has a very light coconut smell (not harsh, overpowering, or fake at
all), and is highly moisturizing.
This oil is known to be a natural sunscreen and may protect your hair and scalp from
pollutants:
Argan Oil
• Rich in vitamin E, phenols, and fatty acids.
• Moisturizing but light.
• Increases scalp circulation.
•
Some people growing long, healthy hair also swear by using olive oil (which you
probably have on hand), sweet almond oil, or Vatika oil. It's a personal choice, do some
experimentation and see what works for you and your hair.
16. Using the Right Brushes and Combs
The truth is, a good comb and brush are an investment in your hair's health and well
being (and beauty), and a bad brush and comb is a DISASTER.
And yes, the top recommendation is going to be a bit pricey, but the truth is, there are
good quality brushes and combs for every budget. There's more to a good brush and comb
than just price. But whether you spend a lot or a little, if you are using just any-old-brush
or a plastic comb with rough edges...you are damaging your hair daily.
There are also different types of brushes that should be used for different hair types and
different uses. If you are unsure of your hair type, you can read more about that here.
Boar Bristle Brushes
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Used correctly, a boar bristle brush is a product-fee and non-damaging way to
achieve sleek, shiny, healthy hair.
You do not use a boar bristle brush (BBB) to detangle, because of the density of
the bristles. Instead, BBBs are used to clean, polish, and condition the hair. The
densely packed, fibrous, natural bristles attract dust and dirt, removing them from
hair. The bristles also catch hold of sebum (the naturally occurring oils your scalp
produces) and spreads it down the length of the hair shaft, allowing it to do its job
of coating and protecting the hair. This is the most natural way to condition your
hair, and repeated use will help your hair to stay moisturized and shiny.
A secondary effect of using a BBB is the scalp massage - and we all know how
good scalp massages are for our hair growth and health. To use a BBB:
Gently detangle with your fingers or a hair safe comb.
Brush out your hair with long strokes, starting at the scalp and brushing right
down to the tips.
You can bend forward from the waist so your hair hangs in front of your face (if
it's long enough) and brush "upside down" as well.
You don't need to do 100 strokes, do what feels right for your hair.
I recommend:
Top of the Line, hands down the best brush you will ever own and although quite an
investment up front, since this brush will last you 15-20 years with care, it is definitely
well worth the money spent and will likely end up being one of your most treasured
possessions.
Mason Pearson Junior Bristle & Nylon Brush Pocket Size <--Click the link to read
more about why Mason Pearson is world renown as the best of the best. This brush is best
for long or thick hair. Go on ahead and read the reviews as well - you'll be impressed.
Mason Pearson Handy Hair Brush Pure Boar Bristle Sensitive Sb3 Sb 3
Hairbrush <--Click the link for more information on this pure BBB best for fine and
thinning hair.
Mason Pearson Child Pure Bristle Pocket Size Dark Ruby Hair Brush <--And this
brush, because of its small size, is perfect for your purse or for the budget-concscious
person who would still like to have the quality of a Mason Pearson but cannot afford a
larger version.
Denman Natural Bristle Grooming Brush <---An affordable, and high quality brush at
any size (starting at $16.49) this brush is a must have, if you decide not to go with Mason
Pearson.
If you prefer buying from what is locally available, I recommend looking for a the above
brands, but if you are limited in choices, I suggest Goody and make sure you are getting
authentic boar bristles or a high quality boar/nylon mix.
Detangling
Now, as I've said, you don't want to use your BBB for detangling. And do you NOT want
to use the typical hair brush with balls on the tips, because they usually have seams
between the balls and the bristles or the bristles and the base - these seams are where hair
can get caught.
It's not necessarily the balls on the tips that you have to worry about, because some
brushes, like the new Goody Ouchless brush has balls on the end of the bristles but is
seamless (and it's only $2, click here, if this is the only brush you purchase, it will be
well worth it!).
You need something with flexible, seamless bristles if using a brush and without seams if
using a comb. With these recommendations, you can detangle in the shower with
conditioner, you can carefully detangle air dried hair, or you can detangle dry.
Tangle Teezer Original Pink <--This little inexpensive plastic brush will look and feel
odd at first, and you may be reluctant to believe that it won't snag or snarl your hair like a
typical brush. You may even think it can't possibly untangle your hair. But after the first
use you will be convinced. You can even untangle wet hair (I use this on my daughter's
hair while it is still damp, to detangle, works like a charm!) and you can even brush from
the top down and snarls will slide right out. It's truly a little powerhouse.
Goody Gentle Flex Ouchless Brush for Fine Hair - Pink This is the Goody brush I
mentioned - there are a lot of brushes in their line that I recommend, and they are very
inexpensive.
If you prefer using a comb to detangle, I must tell you - and this is important - that you
need to be sure to find a seamless comb.
Your drugstore plastic comb with seams running down each tooth is wreaking havoc on
your poor hair. Those seams cause frizziness, breakage, and split ends. Yikes!! Go for a
seamless wooden or horn comb, or you can even find seamless plastic, but make sure to
check before you purchase.
Here are two great options:
Mason Pearson Rake Style Comb <-- Again, you just can't go wrong with Mason
Pearson, they guarantee it!
Natural Hand Carved Traditional Oriental Wide Tooth Ox Horn Comb <-- Horn
combs are well-known in natural hair care and hair growth circles as being beautiful,
natural, and extremely safe for hair.
Wooden Bristle Brush
Widu Bristle Wooden Hair Brush <--I use this wooden bristle brush every evening for
my scalp massage, and I love it. The tingle I get afterwards is amazing, and it also works
great to detangle safely.
If you use any other type of brush for styling, please just keep in mind to look out for
rough edges, ball tips, or bristles that will snag or break hair. Trial and error is good here,
because no one thing works for everyone. If your hair likes it, keep up with it. But if you
are unhappy with your hair, notice otherwise unexplained breakage or frizziness, or want
to take better care of your hair, then consider updating your hair care arsenal with a nice
new comb or brush.
17. Protective Styling
Once your hair becomes long enough to put into a pony tail, the fun with long hair styling
begins. You'll celebrate your first bun! And then when your hair is long enough for its
first hair stick…the possibilities are endless!
And while a big part of wanting long hair is to enjoy the long, flowing locks down your
back, you may also find that you enjoy twisting your long hair up into intricate hair styles
and fancy braids.
But for now, I'm going to focus on basic styles that protect your hair. These styles are a
mainstay - they are something you should consider doing as often as you can during the
growth process to maximize your new length and cut down on breakage considerably.
They are:
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Bunning
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Braiding
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Using a sleep cap at night or
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Using a satin pillowcase at night
Bunning
Once your hair is long enough to twist into a bun, this should be your go-to hairstyle.
This style is quick to do, can look anywhere from polished and professional for the office
or loose and "messy" for a casual style.
Make sure that when you bun, you use only hair-friendly accessories. Which means no
rubber bands or hair ties with metal, no harsh metal clips, no pins or snaps with an
exposed coil that your hair could get snagged in. Your best bet is to use hair sticks (even a
pencil or pen will do!), a hair fork, friendly hair ties (soft scrunchies, hair safe "elastics",
and such), or hair safe clips. This style is perfect to protect your hair from wind, sun
exposure (if you wear a hat over the bun), and getting caught in anything.
For sleep, this keeps your hair from tangling. It is specifically great for protecting your
very delicate ends. In fact, you can oil or deep condition your ends when putting your
hair up into a bun, and your hair will be extra moisturized when you take it down. A basic
bun on damp hair is also a great (and no-heat) way to add volume and waves to your hair
when you take the bun down.
Braiding
Braiding is versatile style that can range from cute and practical to fancy and intricate.
You can either master the basic braid for simple use as a protective style, or you can
spend hours on youtube looking for videos on how to do the fancier braid styles.
But braiding is a fantastic way to protect your hair from snagging, breakage, and more.
Braiding is a practical and comfortable protective style for both day and night.
Using a Sleep Cap
A sleep cap is a great way to keep your hair protected at night without having to twist it
into a bun or braid. However, if you find it uncomfortable to actually wear a cap at night,
you can try using a satin or silk pillow case.
Using a Satin or Silk Pillow Case
This is a very comfortable and non-invasive way to protect your hair at night. Once your
hair is longer, you'll probably need to braid or bun as well as use either a satin or a silk
pillow case, but for the shorter lengths, the pillow case alone will prevent tangles and
breakage.
18. To Trim or Not to Trim
At this point, you have hopefully:
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Made a starting measurement and chosen a short term growth goal
Stopped damaging your hair and sabotaging your hair growth efforts
Trimmed or cut damage off
Chosen a cleansing, conditioning, and oiling routine to experiment with
Chosen your supplements
Chosen the correct brushes/combs
Started doing nightly scalp massages
With this in mind, you are well on your way to growing healthier longer hair than you
ever have before. Yes, really.
Don’t worry, I will reveal some of the more “exciting” secrets to growing your hair fast
and re-growing lost hair, but the truth is that careful hair care practices, supplements, and
nightly scalp stimulation (massage or brushing) are the foundation of stimulating hair
growth. Seriously, no fancy gimmicks, “magic pills” or wallet-draining “proven
systems”.
So now that your hair is set up for growth success, you can decide whether you’d like to
trim your hair during your hair growth journey, or not.
If you have damage and did not do the big chop, or if your hair is prone to split ends (this
should improve with following the steps, but if it persists), or if you are trying to thicken
up or even your hemline, you should choose to trim. While you will be trimming off a
small portion of your growth, your hair will look better during the growth process even if
you take a little bit longer to get to your goal.
If you are happy with your hemline and are not experiencing any splits or damage, you
can get away with going extended periods of time without trimming. This will speed up
your noticeable growth.
If you are growing from a length between pixie and chin length you will most likely want
to have regular trims at a salon, in order to minimize the awkward stages of growth
during these lengths.
However, once you get past chin length, be very cautious when going to a salon for a
trim. Only go to a stylist that you know and trust, who you are certain understands your
hair growth goal and your idea of how much (little) to trim. While I do not have a bad
opinion of hair dressers, I do understand that they often have a different idea of just how
big ¼” really is. So be cautious.
If you prefer, get a trusted friend or family member to trim your hair for you. The good
thing about growing your hair long is that you are either maintaining your hemline or just
evening it out, not needing intricate cuts or styles that require professional experience.
You can pick up a pair of professional quality scissors at a local beauty supply shop or
online, use them only for your hair and sharpen or replace them as needed. As long as
your friend can trim in a straight line (or a U or V shape if you prefer) and you trust them
to measure and cut only ¼” (or whatever you prefer), you will be fine.
Or, once you have hair down to about bra strap length, you may be able to trim it
yourself. I have linked the instructions (with photos) for Feye’s Self Trim Method.
Self Trim for Straight Hemline
Self Trim for V Shaped Hemline
Self Trim for U Shaped Hemline
When to Trim
Another thing to consider is when to trim. While some people think it’s an Old Wive’s
Tale, there are many more who believe that our hair growth cycle is closely linked to the
lunar cycle (the cycle of the moon).
Whether you are a true believer or not, it certainly doesn’t hurt to do your trimming
according to the lunar calendar, but of course, your schedule is up to you.
Lunar Calendar for Hair Trimming
For a printable version of the calendar please see the attached .pdf file.
19. Shedding
The shedding of anywhere from approximately 25-100 hairs per day is quite normal.
Remember that as your hair gets longer, a ball (such as the clump of hair on your shower
drain after a wash) of shed hair will look bigger even with the same amount of hair,
because the individual hair is longer.
Once you start paying close attention to your hair during your hair growth journey, you
may be surprised by the amount of shed hairs you find, and if you notice a fluctuation it
can be very upsetting.
There are many causes of a change in the amount of shedding a person experiences:
seasonal changes, stressful situations (the shedding usually escalates about three months
after a particularly stressful time), or poor diet, are a few.
If you are experiencing other health symptoms or are overly worried about your shedding
or hair loss, please see a doctor right away. Thyroid conditions, hormonal changes,
diabetes, and some medications can possibly cause hair loss.
For those times when you may be experiencing a seasonal shed or have not found a
medical cause for the shedding, there are still some actions you can take to improve the
situation.
Take garlic (either actual garlic cloves or garlic capsules) or use garlic on your scalp
(there are commercial garlic shampoos or you can simmer garlic cloves in the oil of your
choice and apply to the scalp).
Use Nioxin. This is my shampoo and conditioner of choice, because I tend to shed, and it
works. I find that it reduces my shedding a bit, but more importantly I notice more new
regrowth when using it, and it makes my hair soft and shiny. It is also so enjoyable to use.
It has a minty scent and feels cool and tingly, which reminds me of having my hair
washed in a salon (since it’s been years since I’ve had my hair washed in a salon, I really
enjoy this!).
Use Mega Tek. People have had amazing results with actually re-growing balding spots
with using Mega Tek, and it is one of the most well known “underground” secrets to
speeding up your hair growth rate as well.
Also keep in mind, if you are shedding a lot of hair, but also see a lot of new growth (a
little “halo” of “baby hairs” sprouting up) and see no thinning of your hair, then this just
may be your natural hair cycle, like mine. It’s annoying, but as long as my hair continues
to grow in healthy and as rapidly as I shed it, I’m not too concerned.
20. A Mega-Secret: Mega Tek
Mega Tek is a product that is well known and often used (with great results) in the "long
hair community."
For a lot of people this is like a “miracle product” – and you know that I like to stay away
from claims that seem too good to be true or are billed as magical - but the proof is in the
results, and Mega Tek just happens to be highly effective for the majority of users.
It is known to increase hair growth rate, re-grow hair in thinning or bald spots, and
increase hair thickness.
It does not work for everyone in the same way, nothing does, but in a lot of people it
produces really rapid results (sometimes in as little as a few weeks).
Just so you know...Mega Tek is marketed as a product for horses/pets (and it works
amazing on them, too!) but is completely safe and recommended for human use.
The manufacturer is Eqyss and their motto is, "Fit for man or beast!"
Mega Tek is the exact same product as the outrageously expensive Ovation Cell Therapy
(which you probably have heard of, and sells for three times the cost of Mega Tek).
Ovation is made by DC Labs and Eqyss is a subsidiary of DC Labs.
The truth is, it's great marketing. There are some people, and you may be one of them and
I respect that, that are skittish about putting a product marketed for animals on their own
head. It makes sense, so DC Labs split their formula into two categories, one line
marketed to pets and horse and the other for human use.
Same product, different packaging and different marketing plans. And way different
price!!
What are the ingredients in Mega Tek for hair growth?
Deionized Water, Stearalkonium Chloride, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40
Castor Oil, Cetrimonium Chloride, Hydrolized Keratin, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate,
DM DM Hydantoin, Methlparaben, Propylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA, Frangrance.
What are the ingredients in OCT?
Deionized Water, Stearalkonium Chloride, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40
Castor Oil, Cetrimonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate,
DM DM Hydantoin, Methlparaben, Propylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA, Frangrance
So, don't get me wrong, if you want to go with Ovation Cell Therapy, you'll find the same
result as if you'd tried Mega Tek.
But, if you'd like to get the very same product at one third the price, then you need to go
straight to Amazon.com and pick it up NOW, (I am a supporter of shopping locally when
you can, but when I have trouble finding a product in my area, I love shopping on
Amazon because they offer great deals, and are very reliable). If you have a tack shop or
specialty pet shop near you that carries the Eqyss line, even better.
How to Use Mega Tek
Mega Tek is a protein treatment, which is important to keep in mind. Some people’s hair
is very protein sensitive, so you have to watch for build up – if this happens, your hair
will get coarse and dry, and the fix is just to reduce applications of Mega Tek for a while,
keep Mega Tek applications to scalp only, and to do plenty of moisturizing deep
treatments. If your hair likes protein, you don’t have to worry about this and can use
Mega Tek liberally.
As a growth aid, Mega Tek should be applied directly to the scalp. You can do this a few
ways:
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Apply straight from the bottle to your scalp during scalp massage as you would
any scalp oil (use a liberal amount on your finger tips and massage directly into
your scalp)
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Mix Mega Tek and some distilled water in a hair color applicator bottle and shake
to mix up, apply this mixture to your scalp with the applicator tip and then
massage in with your fingertips or brush into your scalp to ensure it is thoroughly
distributed
•
Use in lieu of your normal conditioner in your routine (alternate between your
usual conditioner and Mega Tek)
•
Use as a protein conditioning mask (thoroughly coat your scalp and hair with
Mega Tek and leave on for an hour, then rinse)
I recommend applying Mega Tek to your scalp in the evening during your nightly scalp
massage and leaving in. In the morning you can wash it out during your normal routine,
but I have found that even if I do not wash or even rinse my hair the next day, my hair has
often just soaked up the Mega Tek and I’m left with silky, soft, manageable hair.
You can use nightly if you want, or if you notice some build up, cut back to every other
night or just a few times per week. You’ll still see results.
21. Embarrassing Secret?! Monistat/Daktarin
Using Monistat (or Daktarin, depending on where you live) has been talked about in
forums about hair loss and hair growth and even medical forums for many years. While
there are several theories as to why the active ingredient in Monistat might work on hair
growth, there is no scientific data. So this is not a recognized or recommended use for
Monistat, but there have been thousands of reports on forums of users who have had
success with it.
Monistat is commonly used to treat yeast infections. The active ingredient is Miconazole
Nitrate (MN) which is an antifungal agent.
It is known that a cause of shedding and thinning, as well as dandruff, is a fungal
infection on the scalp. One theory is that MN fights a scalp fungal infection that could be
inhibiting hair growth.
How to Use MN for Hair Growth
Miconazole nitrate is applied directly to the scalp either full strength or diluted with water
or oil. Some people apply it directly with their fingers, others use a bottle applicator (a
clean hair dye bottle) and mix the MN with water or oil and massage this mixture into
their scalp.
You can leave it on for an hour or overnight before a wash.
Possible Side Effects
Severe Migraine-like headaches have been report lasting for up to 3 day on those with
sensitive scalps
Red inflamed areas on application site
Tender and sensitive spots on scalp
Increased shedding that sometimes subsides, sometimes not
Ringing in ears
General "not feeling right"
STOP USE AT ONCE if you have any of these symptoms.
Extreme shedding of hair after stopping use of MN
Some first time users have slight tingling/discomfort but later build a 'tolerance' to it.
Headaches are the most common complaint the first few days of application.
Should you try it?
If you’re feeling adventurous and want to experiment with MN, then give it a try. Realize
that some people have had amazing results and swear by it, using it regularly, others have
had side effects and discontinued use, and others have had no change. I personally have
tried it, had a headache during my first application but no other side effects after that, but
also no really noticeable changes in my growth rate or shedding. And yet I know a lot of
friends who swear by it.
If you are worried about the side effects or the fact that MN has not been tested for this
use and no long term studies have been done, steer clear of this “out there” hair growth
secret.
Click here to purchase Monistat or Daktarin online. No embarrassment necessary. I’ll
keep your secret…
22. Coconut Oil for Hair Health
I already spoke about coconut oil in the chapter on oiling your hair, but coconut oil
deserves a second look, for a few of its miraculous properties.
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Lauric Acid: One of the most responsible reasons behind hair fall and hair loss is
microbial action on the scalp and hair roots. So, to protect hair against them, what
we need is an antimicrobial agent. Lauric Acid present in Coconut Oil is one of
them. It is basically a triglyceride which yields a monoglyceride called
Monolaurin when acted upon by a species of bacteria which breaks the glycerol
bonds. This monolaurin has excellent antimicrobial properties.
Capric Acid: This is yet another triglyceride present in Coconut oil, which, like
Lauric Acid, yields another monoglyceride called Monocaprin due to bacterial
action, having antimicrobial properties similar to that of monolaurin.
Moisture Retaining Capacity: Coconut Oil has properties very close to the
sebum our scalp naturally produces, which means it is highly compatible with
your hair and scalp. Coconut Oil is a far better conditioner for hair than any
synthetic one available in the market.
Anti-Dandruff: The various fatty acids present in Coconut Oil serve as very good
anti dandruff agents.
Lice Prevention: Coconut oil on the hair creates a hostile environment for lice, so
if this is a concern, using a coconut oil based shampoo or adding a tablespoon of
melted coconut oil to your shampoo before using. Conditioning with a tiny bit of
coconut oil is also great for this.
Lice Removal: The use of coconut oil to saturate both hair and scalp, left on
overnight and then washed out, carefully combing out all lice and nits, is an
effective lice treatment. The addition of Neem Oil, Tea Tree Oil, Rosemary and
Lavender Essential Oils make this an incredibly affective natural lice remedy.
Prevent Peroxide Damage: There is research that shows that soaking your hair in
coconut oil before coloring or bleaching it, may prevent damage from the use of
peroxide. Coconut oil does not affect dye uptake in any way, and is an excellent
source of conditioning and protection, should you choose to continue to color or
bleach your hair.
Taken internally: either added into a hot beverage, food or a smoothie, or used as
a cooking oil, coconut oil is extremely beneficial for your overall health
23. Henna and Other Herbs
One of the most beneficial changes I made in my hair care routine when deciding to grow
long, was to give up chemical coloring and switch to using henna and indigo for both
color and conditioning.
Now here I am going to issue a very important WARNING, please do not ignore this…
henna and indigo are ABSOLUTELY PERMANENT in hair. Not like chemical
“permanent” hair colors which you can remove with other chemicals, but like “the only
way to get rid of it is to cut your hair off.” Yes, really.
The reason I decided to make the switch was that I have always enjoyed having a dark
brunette/mahogany color in my hair, I know it suits me, and I deliberated long and hard
before I decided that I could be happy making a permanent switch.
If you aren’t sure how you feel about reddish tones on your hair, if you still feel like
you’ll be tempted to switch to a different color someday, or if you couldn’t possibly live
with a color that wasn’t exactly what you expected, then Henna is not for you.
But if you like “henna red” hair (do some google image searching, if you aren’t familiar),
if you are a bit adventurous, feel like you can make a commitment, and you want the
strongest, shiniest hair you’ve ever had….then you may want to give hanna try.
You can do anything from a henna gloss (a mixture of henna and conditioner) to give a
subtle color and lots of shine and conditioning to full head applications that will give you
striking and unique color (because henna works with your own hair color, it doesn’t
replace it).
I can’t possibly go into enough detail on Henna to cover everything you’d need to know,
so I’m going to hand you over to the henna expert, Catherine Cartwright Jones, and her
informative website HennaforHair.com.
There you should find all you need to know about the history of henna and other herbs
for coloring, all of the explanations and how-to’s and you can order body art quality
henna and herbs.
Because I go for a brunette shade I use indigo with my henna mixture. When using indigo
you have to be even more careful never to use any type of hair color that has bleach or
peroxide in it, because your hair will end up green and fried. Again, yes, very permanent
decision.
But I love my hair color, and my hair has never been as strong or shiny as it is now. Don’t
believe those hair color commercials that tell you chemical color is good for your hair or
has “natural botanicals” in them – just adding some jojoba oil does not make a product
natural and although chemical color fattens up your cuticle in the process, it is ruining
your hair.
Want more information on using Henna and other herbs? Click here.
24. Cassia
I am going to touch on using cassia (also called senna) separately from the henna chapter.
You can get more information on using cassia and you can purchase it from the link
above, or you can order it online.
Unlike the other herbs, cassia is not permanent and will only color very light blonde or
white hair. Otherwise, it will make no noticeable color change and its effects only last a
few week’s time.
Cassia is wonderful as a hair conditioning treatment which strengthens the hair and gives
it great shine, while also working to clear up dandruff and scalp itch in a lot of people.
If you do NOT want to make a permanent color change, but would like to try natural
herbs on your hair, cassia is the one to try.
25. Your Hair Growth Journey Checklist
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Stop damaging your hair
Get a cut or trim and start fresh
Take a starting measurement
Take a starting photo
Try to change only one thing at a time, and give it time to work
Get enough rest, drink enough water, eat healthy, manage your stress
Take Hair Essentials and Nioxin Recharging Complex daily
Do nightly scalp massage
Deep condition once per month or more
Oil/Mega Tek/MN or other solution to accelerate your growth rate
Trim sparingly if at all, by lunar calendar
Hair safe brushes, combs and styling implements
Protective styling as often as possible
Most important to remember:
Nightly Scalp Massage! Just do it! And don’t forget! It is free, it requires no extra items,
only your hands, and takes just a few minutes a day to do…this is honestly the most
important step you can take to increase your growth rate, so get to it!
Consult your doctor and take your supplements…Hair Essentials and Nioxin Recharging
Complex are a must have in my hair growth arsenal. Don’t go without!
Experimentation!! Have fun with it, give new things a try, be GOOD to your hair as it
grows. Try a new cleansing routine, do a deep treatment, soak in coconut oil overnight…
since you won’t be having fun with new cuts or styles, this is the time to have fun with
taking great care of your hair. Remember to give every experiment enough time to really
decide if it is working for you or not. And don’t forget to experiment with new hairstyles
as your hair gets longer. You will honestly be amazed at what a difference just an inch or
two will mean to your styling and hair care possibilities.
Stay adaptable, and be patient. Listen, nothing will grow hair overnight (I wish!) and
rather than throw your hard earned money out the window on fads and hyped up products
or miracle cures, just follow the plan I’ve laid out here and adopt healthy hair habits, and
your hair will be reaching your growth goals before you even know it!
Happy Growing!