26
Out & About
Jakarta Globe Friday, March 20, 2015
The Best of 2 Countries in One Big Bowl at NamNam
Christabelle Palar
I
“
f tonight’s meal were to be your
last, what would you have for
dinner?” chef Nam Q. Nguyen’s
wife asked him years before the
idea of taking on the restaurant
industry ever entered his mind.
The answer, he says, is simple: “Pho.”
Tom Suharman, Nam’s business partner, has a different response.
“If you ask me, mine would be
Indomie with two bakso [Indonesian
meatballs] and an egg,” he says with a
laugh.
To Nam, one’s choice of a final meal
could largely be a matter of familiarity —
and perhaps a dash of sentimentality. He
remembers days from his childhood
when he used to “run around naked on
the streets,” an innocent start to his passion for a bowl of pho.
“This is what I grew up with: a bowl of
pho, super hot, with lots of herbs. That’s
it,” he says.
Taking with them their roots and passion for food, Tom and Nam are now the
men behind the bustling Pantai Indah
Kapuk’s late gastronomic treat in North
Jakarta, NamNam Noodle Bar — the restaurant’s first outlet outside of Singapore,
where it was first established in 2012 and
now enjoys widespread popularity.
The dish itself is no stranger to Jakarta’s ever hungry and adventurous crowd
of culinary enthusiasts. A number of Vietnamese restaurants have opened their
doors over the past few years across the
city, be it in malls or as stand-alone establishments. Their decor vary from the upscale to those with walls stripped bare —
both extremes falling either in the
intimidating or uninviting category.
Entering NamNam, however, it is evident things are being done a little differently. Hip in its semi-industrial touches
yet oozing a certain kind of warmth,
thanks to its wooden furniture and decor,
young diners can enjoy a fun vibe that has
long been missing from existing Vietnamese food establishments.
Pantai Indah Kapuk
in North Jakarta, the
capital’s latest hot
spot for trendy new
eateries and cafes,
is now home to
NamNam Noodle
Bar’s first outlet in
Indonesia. Photos courtesy of
NamNam Noodle Bar
Though presenting a modern take on
the traditional dish, the details in the restaurant, from its transparent banh mi
counter stocked with sandwiches — a
familiar view on the streets of Saigon — to
the various sauces on each table, ensure
customers they are not too far away from
an authentic pho experience.
The dish itself is served in a big bowl,
with noodles that achieve the perfect “al
dente” texture, and broth that suits the
preference of most Indonesians for the
well-spiced and savory; not just subtle
hints of tastes.
This is no coincidence, as Nam admits
to having spent a considerable amount of
time trying out various local offerings —
mostly street food — to find the essential
taste that makes them so popular, and
adopt it into his recipe.
“[Tom] took me to the best soto ayam
place, one that is famous. And as I ate, I
noticed that [the venue] was full, and I
thought, the place must offer a special
taste that people like,” he says, adding
that it is these local flavors he tried to
emulate and include in his menu for
NamNam’s Jakarta outlet.
The restaurant also offers two types of
bakso: the classic round variety and a flat
one, both of which also came into fruition
after long months of research by the business partners.
“We spent early mornings trying to
learn how to make bakso from a very old
man on the street, he showed me the process,” Nam says. “I saw him use an ulekan
[mortar and pestle] to grind the spices,
garlic, salt and bone marrow together. He
then added the mixture to his soup ... and,
wow, it was so good.”
Nam’s attempt at incorporating a
touch of local flavors did not stop there.
For those looking for dessert to close a
meal, pisang goreng (fried bananas) is one
item on the menu that Nam also says took
patience to master.
The batter crisp and sweet and served
in just the right size so that the fruit itself
doesn’t overwhelm (simple qualities that
many fail to achieve), the classic local
snack is a pleasant detail that, in its modesty, manages to be one of the highlights
of the entire meal.
“I was worried at first to serve this,
because what if I don’t get the taste right?
But I tried learning [the technique and
ingredients],” Nam says.
For all the hip touches in its design, a
deliberate move Nam hopes will introduce pho as part of Jakarta’s modern lifestyle, the humble values that inspire the
establishment remain.
Taking authentic Indonesian tastes
and combining them with Vietnam’s traditional noodle dish, NamNam is a place
where two worlds meld gracefully, providing simple, familiar meals that take not
just Nam, but also Indonesian diners back
to culinary basics.
We spent early mornings trying to learn
how to make bakso from an old man on the
street. I saw him use an ulekan [mortar and
pestle] to grind the [ingredients].
Nam Q. Nguyen, chef and co-owner of NamNam