Web Fragrant Newsletter
The Independent Fragrant NL
WFN 54 May 2015
Content
Fragrant People
Alex Lee (Mane)
Loc Dong (IFF)
Vanina Muracciole
Fragrant Women
Miller Harris, Jillian Friedman
Marielle Belin
Dear Reader,
Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 54!
WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people,
bimonthly, written in English, for professionals
only... And still a pleasure!
Fragrant Educators
Fragrances of the World
Red Scout
Fragrant Selection
See you in July!
[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluator
Collection Azur by Atelier Cologne
I Miss Violet by The Different Company
La Collection Privée by Molinard
Other launches
Special: WWD ‘The Smell Test’!
Méchant Loup (aka Thierry Blondeau) is a
French blogger (Olfactorum) and passionate
about perfumes.
After having written about perfumes, he
decided to go through the mirror of
creation by developing 4 personal
perfumes. Thierry is the nose.
Alea Jacta Est (woody floral) Cuir
Extrême (leathery floral) Jessy’s
Rose (chypre rose) Narcisse Emoi
(leathery floral)
Available at La Maison de Parfums (Rouen) and
Jovoy Paris - Price € 90,00 - 50 ml
Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading
and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant People
ALEX LEE – MANE
« Once upon a time, there was a little boy at school who used to chase girls on the playground to smell
their deliciously shampooed hair—of course, not like Jean-Baptiste Grenouille in Patrick Süskind’s « Le
Parfum. » This little boy was me. »
Alex Lee was born and raised in California and left the comforts of his home and a career in medicine to
pursue his passion for perfumery creation in 2007. After completing his French language studies in Lyon,
France, Alex began his career in the capital of perfumery: Grasse. He studied at the Grasse Institute of
Perfumery, where he would later debut as an assistant perfumer. Led by curiosity and the calling to learn
more, Alex left Grasse for Paris, where he attended ISIPCA and later joined the Mane perfumery school in
2011. In 2013, Alex was the winner of the young perfumers competition, “The Scent of Exsence, 5
Years of Excellence.” Alex designed Ungaro’s new Fruit d’Amour Green, and many other fragrances are
sure to follow. Some raw ingredients that he likes include Cardamom Jungle Essence, Angelica, Vetiver,
Jasmine, and Cistus.
VANINA MURACCIOLE – an independent perfumer
Both Italian and Corsican, Vanina Muracciole grew up in the fields of Corsican maquis, with a
very traditional perfumery culture and education. After her graduation from ISIPCA – the
international section, she joined Mane Italy and then Mane Grasse. Nearly 30, Vanina works
part time for Patou and as an independent perfumer, for alternative brands such as
Intertrade brands, Jovoy or Le Galion. At the Pitti Fragranze exhibition 2014, she participated
in the unscent love magic potions and the Skin perfume workshops. Vanina has signed
Jovoy’s L’Art de la Guerre (the note of immortelle), and Cuir and Aesthete for Le Galion.
Other new creations are expected over the coming months. Basil, vetiver, ambroxan,
mandarin, moss, she loves to texture them in a perfume whilst doing the same with music,
when she plays the piano.
LOC DONG – IFF USA
As the first Asian fine fragrance perfumer in the industry, Loc Dong joined IFF as a
Perfumer in 2002 in the NY Office. He brought with him ten years of experience in
the field, having trained with and worked for Haarmann & Reimer and Creations
Aromatiques in Grasse, New York, Paris, and Germany. Born in Saigon, Loc's
earliest fragrance memories involve following around his grandfather (a herbalist)
and smelling the many fragrant plants he used in his practice. Loc left war-torn
Vietnam when only eleven years old, coming to the U.S. alone by way of a
Malaysian refugee camp. Years later, while studying for a career in medicine, a
summer job at a fragrance laboratory changed his career path. He began his
training in perfumery and never regretted his decision. Among his blockbuster
successes are Euphoria Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Gioia, and Yves
Saint Laurent’s Manifesto. He’s one of the trio of Paco Rabanne Olympea with
Anne Flipo & Dominique Ropion.
OLYMPEA by Paco Rabanne embodies the fantasy of victory
An architect by training, designer by passion, perfumer on the forefront, Paco
Rabanne has always been synonymous with boldness and modernism. A vision
of women in the spirit of the times Olympea is a fresh oriental around salty
notes of the sea. It was made up with a salty vanilla, a fresh aquatic accord of
jasmin & ginger, sustained by amber and sandalwood, for a powerful longlasting
fragrance, the brand signature scent. The bottle recalls the 80’s and has been
designed by Bloom Room’s Marc Ange and features a ring (the laurels of
victory), a combination of Art Deco and classic (www.bloomroomstudio.com).
Olympea exists also in an extrait version in a special bottle with a black pump
spray.
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Women
MILLER HARRIS 15 YEARS ! COLLECTION JARDIN by Miller Harris
Homage to Lynn Harris who decided to leave the company she created, Miller Harris, 15 years ago.
Miller Harris is the expression of Lyn Harris’s irreverent and eclectic style that brings together the
finest quality raw materials with the artistry and instinct of a true perfumer.
Lyn Harris has been working in the fragrance industry for more than twenty years and founded
Miller Harris in 2000. She spent five years training in France at one of the highly prestigious
schools of the perfume elite in Paris and then Robertet in Grasse. Lyn’s signature style is defined
by her love of naturals and her precision in using them is prevalent in all her creations. Whilst
respecting tradition, Lyn strives to push the boundaries, creating fragrances that are innovative
yet timeless. "Life is a journey and I have the added pleasure of being able to share mine through
my creations.“
In March 2015, Lynn let Robertet perfumers work with consultant Jillian Friedman. Jillian has been
involved in the fragrance industry for over 20 years, honing expertise in the development and
conceptual marketing of fine fragrances, personal care and bath products. With diverse experience
on both the finished goods and supplier sides of the business, she has driven all aspects of
development for leading global beauty companies across categories in both prestige and mass
market segments. Jillian’s holistic approach is both strategic and instinctual. She is known for her
strong design aesthetic and understanding of global olfactory taste.
For more info: www.jillianfriedman.com
Le Jardin d’Enfance is a trio which pays homage to Lynn Harris’s
contribution. Mathieu Nardin created poirier d’un soir (inspired by the
contrasting flavours and complex aromas of a ripe pear combined to
fresh Italian bergamot, pear macerated in dark rum extract, black
currant and tagete which introduce a hint of warmth and a touch of
caramelised sugar). Jean Michel Santorini and Michele Saramito
signed cassis en feuille and cœur de jardin. A true journey in a garden.
LA MARQUE ET LA MANIERE by Marielle Belin
Marielle Belin
[email protected]
Marielle Belin is a former marketing executive in the fragrance industry. She has worked for 25
years at Thierry Mugler and Issey Miyake. She founded her agency La Marque et La Manière
specializing in strategy, concept and storytelling, dedicated to helping brands to differenciate.
Her latest work is about personality and perfume (qualitative survey). How far are our perfume
preferences driven by our personalities?
This perfume survey has been run by merging two expertises: IME* specialised in cognitive
psychology and La Marque et La Manière. It concerns the 3 following questions: How does each
of the 8 identified cognitive personalities express itself in the perfume universe? Among the
identified personalities, which are the most perfume oriented and what characterises their
behaviour differences? How can we better identify the personalities attracted by a brand in order
to reinforce its success potential? The first results deal with key questions such as: What are the
olfactory, esthetical preferences for a fragrance, a bottle, a packaging, a graphics design? What
kind of story telling typically seduces each personality? How do they make their decisions: what is
the role of advertising, word of mouth, point of sale advice, etc.
For more info: www.lamarqueetlamaniere.com
*IME: Institut de médecine environnementale, owns a tool named ANC. This is a neurocognitive and behavioral tool aimed at
understanding human functioning. This tool has been developed, over 28 years of interdisciplinary research, gathering neurosciences,
cognitive and behaviorist sciences, psycho-sociology.
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Educators
FRAGRANCES OF THE WORLD 2015 The Fragrance Bible©
In 2014, more than1600 new perfumes appeared on the market. How to keep track?
Fragrances of the World continues to be the leading guide for fragrance classification.
Universally regarded as the ‘bible’ of perfumery, independent and impartial,
unsurpassed in both its research and scope, this is the definitive reference trusted by
perfumers, executives, journalists, retailers, collectors and shoppers worldwide.
Refreshed weekly the online databank provides current and up to date details on new
launches, while the annual guide book is an iconic sales tool with current and historic
references at your fingertips.
New global fragrance launches 2013 vs
2014
Source www.FragrancesoftheWorld.Info ©
Michael Edwards 2015 shows also the
number of launches and the trends.
For example, we see that ‘niche’ launchings
are declining slightly, but limited editions
and flankers still invade the prestige market.
It all began 31 years ago when fragrance expert Michael Edwards created an annual
guide to help perfume retailers advise their customers. The book organises perfumes
into 14 fragrance families – including Woods, Oriental, Floral, Fruity and Citrus – and
even more subfamilies from which to choose.
RED SCOUT & SIMONE PEDERSEN
RED SCOUT is a digital (online) education specialist for the beauty and retail industry founded by
Simone Pedersen. The online courses help beauty consultants gain category knowledge & sales
skills in the specialised areas of fragrance, makeup, skincare and customer service. Category
knowledge refers to the fundamental must-know information of a particular subject, to enable
beauty consultants to expertly engage customers in conversation, provide appropriate
recommendations, thereby increasing sales and customer loyalty. RED SCOUT’s Fragrance
Express course teaches beauty consultants all the necessary details to excel in their profession,
such as classifying fragrance types, understanding fragrance product categories and families,
ways of finding out customer’s preference, the correct way to demonstrate products, as well as
frequently asked questions, etc. RED SCOUT works with prestige brands, department store
chains, speciality store chains, pharmacy groups, with clients that include Parkson department
stores, Lane Crawford, DFS Galleria, Elizabeth Arden, Sephora, Puig and Interparfums. Red Scout
has trained over 10,000 people online. RED SCOUT offers standard beauty curriculum as well as
customised solutions, and is indeed a specialist in beauty retail – with a thorough understanding
of what it takes to give great customer service and keep customers loyal. Always with the view to
increase sales and exceed sales targets.
Simone Pedersen’s background is in Chanel Australia and then for many years, as the GMM of cosmetics at prestige
retailer Lane Crawford Hong Kong. It was during this time when she felt a strong need to train beauty advisors well in
fundamental category knowledge, so that they can truly become brand ambassadors that are engaging, provide
excellent recommendations and customer service.
RED SCOUT offers Special Privilege to WFN readers!
Sign up for RED SCOUT’s Fragrance Express Course at AUD79.95 & learn more about Customer Sales & Service for FREE
(worth AUD59.95)! For a very limited period only for period 1 – 31 May 2015!
Simply go to http://redscoutonline.com/start-your-beauty-training/course-outlines/ & sign up today! (Promo Code =
WFNspecial01)
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Launches
COLLECTION AZUR by Atelier Cologne
Another chapter in the Maison Atelier Cologne. The brand celebrates
its 5th anniversary with the launch of Collection Azur, with four
fragrances: Mandarine Glaciale, Sud Magnolia, Cèdre Atlas and
Figuier Ardent. A collection of 4 blue Venitian bottles made up with
ingredients from the regions where sea and sky become one
(Louisiana, Calabria, Provence and Morocco). Back to sources.
Under Sylvie Ganter’s artistic direction, Mandarine Glaciale
(mandarin, ginger, vetiver, oakmoss) Sud Magnolia (magnolia, bitter
orange marmalade), Cèdre Atlas (lemon, cedar, apricot, vetiver),
were signed by Jérome Epinette whilst Figuier Ardent (bergamot, fig
leaves, tonka bean) is signed by Mane’s Ralf Schwieger. The
collection is available in 30 and 100 ml Cologne Absolue and are
exclusive to Sephora and boutiques.
[ where sea and sky become one ]
I MISS VIOLET by The Different Company
Scent, name, color. I miss Violet. The Different Company has launched another fragrance with Bertrand
Duchaufour who needed three years to complete his violet fragrance. Bertrand says: “my idea was to
work with a material that we already know very well but to do it in a different way, something
completely different, a new creation, a new piece of art. I always want to do things in an artistic way.
That's why this is a homage to Mitsouko and Aprés L'Ondée, because they also are strongly powdery.
Memory is so important in fragrance and the central note in this one is indeed memory”. The leathery
floral is composed of violet leaves, mandarin, galbanum, champagne, vanilla, leather accord, musk,
mimosa, osmanthus… A rich, elegant, and addictive scent.
LA COLLECTION PRIVEE by Molinard
A story of passion
MANY NEW LAUNCHES
Quatre Boucheron
L’Eau Florale Repetto
Vacances, Colony, L’Heure Attendue ...
Collection Héritage Patou
Terryfic Oud L’Eau Terry de Gunzburg
Terryfic Oud Extrême T.de Gunzburg
Mandarine L’Artisan Parfumeur
Rêve Enchanté VCA
Exotic Jimmy Choo
One Love JL Scherrer
Palissandre d’Or Aedes de Venustas
La Fille de l’Air Courrèges
Rem Eau de Parfum Reminiscence
The family house La Maison Molinard will celebrate its 165th Birthday in
2015. Five generations of savoir faire and people have succeeded in the
south of France, in Grasse. To pay tribute to its huge heritage, the brand has
signed an exclusive collection (the leather is the inspiration), Collection
Privée which tells the story of the family. A passion of violet colour for the
packaging – iris, violet and lavender, those flowers so reminiscent of the
southern region... 5 eaux de parfum passing through the mirror of the time:
Cher Wood, Acqua Lotus, Ambré et Lumière, Rose Emois, Secret Sucré.
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Test
WWD’s first Edition The Smell Test
A new generation of product developers is shaking up the fragrance industry. They’ve put the emphasis
back on the juice, rather than the high-pitched marketing that’s driven launches in the past.
Keeping in step with these transformative times, WWD has assembled a jury of world-class fragrance
experts who will judge various scents for their olfactory quality, revealing the nuances of perfumery’s new
world order. Headed by panel chairman Michael Edwards, the jurors represent various facets of the
industry, from perfumers to consumers: Jean-Claude Delville (Drom), Karen Dubin (Sniffapalooza), Victoria
Frolova (Bois de Jasmin), Christophe Laudamiel (DreamAir), Luca Turin, Kevin Verspoor (PerfumeKev LLC),
Paul Austin (Austin Advisory group) Chantal Roos (Roos & Roos co) and Nathalie Pichard (toPNotes).
Panelists are given unmarked vials of fragrance to smell in a blind, impartial test. The fragrance will
be scored on a scale of 10 (the ultimate) to 1 (forgettable), with an average score computed.
The judges will make short critiques of each fragrance, which will be kept anonymous to ensure
independent thinking. The scents being judged are new to the market and among the most
promising. WWD will buy them at retail, just like any consumer.
The first edition of The Smell Test reviews Misia from Les Exclusifs de Chanel. It is a maiden effort
at the storied fragrance house by Olivier Polge, one of the fastest-rising stars of international
perfumery.
THE VERDICT: The judges described this scent in a blind test as elegant, sophisticated and nicely
made with a vintage feel. Some panel members, however, found the formula a bit boring and
lacking emotion. RATING: 7.2
http://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/chanel-misia-perfume-smell1011788210117882/