1. business and industrial
2. energy
3. oil

H
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CRAFT
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PM
AKERS
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SoapMaker
2009-2
HANDCRAFTED
The Journal of
the Handcrafted Soapmakers Guild
How Time & Temperature
Affect the Soapmaking Process
by Kevin M. Dunn, John Campbell, Andrew Basinger, and Tyler Bowman
What is the time scale for the saponification
process? Does it take minutes, hours, days, or weeks
for the alkali to be consumed? What role does
temperature play in the saponification reaction?
Why does soap sometimes gel to a Vaseline-like
consistency and other times remain the consistency
of cookie dough? These are the questions to be
addressed in this article.1
Method
In order to study the effects of time and temperature, we held some things constant to avoid being
fooled by variations in materials and techniques.
This study used an oil blend dubbed “Delight,”
consisting of 39% olive, 28% palm, 28% coconut,
and 5% castor oil.
Each test bar was made from 100.0 g of Delight
and 28.8 g of Lye (50.0% NaOH, 50.0% de-ionized
water) along with a varying water portion. Since the
1 This article has been adapted from a chapter of the forthcoming book, Scientific Soapmaking, by Kevin M. Dunn.
In This Issue
How Time and Temperature Affects
The Soapmaking Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . cover
From the President . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . inside cover
Manufacturer's Safety Data Sheets
Do You Need Them? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Welcome New Members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
How To Select The Right Shrink Film
For Your Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Feeding Frenzy: Using RSS Feeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2010 Annual Conference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Lye was 50.0% NaOH, the ratio of NaOH to oil was
144 to 1000, that is, 144 parts per thousand (ppt).2
We determined the (sodium) saponification value
of this oil to be 150.8 ppt NaOH.3 This meant
that the NaOH used was (144/150.8 = 0.95) of that
required for complete saponification. Thus, the lye
discount was 5%.
Each bar was designated by a formula, Delight1000Lye288AqX, where X was varied from 0 ppt
(low-water) to 288 ppt (high-water).4 We considered
these soaps to be realistic representatives of soaps
produced in the handcrafted soap community. We
might expect the low-water soap (0 ppt Aq) to be
harder initially than the high-water soap (288 ppt
Aq), as explored in reference [6].
It will be seen that the water concentration
dictates much of the behavior of a saponifying oil.
Our soap formula expresses the water portion in
ppt, as if the water portion is a separate ingredient
from the lye. But it is possible to calculate the
equivalent lye concentration that would be necessary
to produce the same soaps from oil and dilute lye.
It is also possible to express the moisture concentration as a fraction of the total soap weight. A survey
of several handcrafted soap books revealed that the
2 1 ppt = 0.1%; 500 ppt = 50.0%.
3 Method adapted from AOCS Official Method Cd 3-25,
reference [5]
4 It is important to keep in mind that any time "Lye" is
referred to in the formulations, it refers to a 50% solution
of NaOH and water. The water designated by Aq is in
addition to the water in the Lye solution. Since the Lye used
for all soaps was 50.0% water, Aq0 was designated low-water,
not no-water.
(continued on page 8)
Contact Us
Handcrafted Soapmakers
Guild, Inc.
P.O. Box 5103
Portland, OR 97208-5103
Toll Free: (866) 900-SOAP
(866) 900-7627
Direct: (503) 283-7758
Fax: (503) 286-0236
E-mail: [email protected]
Board of Directors:
Leigh O'Donnell, President
[email protected]
Maria Gelnett,
Vice-President
[email protected]
Sr. Cathleen Timberlake,
Secretary
[email protected]
Feleciai Favroth, Treasurer
[email protected]
Elaine Koronich
[email protected]
Gillian DeConto
[email protected]
Delores Harris
[email protected]
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www.soapguild.org/login.php
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The Handcrafted SoapMaker is a
publication of the Handcrafted Soap
Makers Guild, Inc. published for the
HSMG membership.
From the President
Have you ever fallen victim to the gloom that sometimes surrounds
us and let it start to run your life and your business?
My family recently fell victim to the H1N1 Virus. I have two kids
(10 & 13) and it started with my 13 year old. It's been 3 weeks now and
it's worked it's way through the entire family, even me. Nothing like a
flu virus to slow you down, it can feel like your whole house is infected.
This got me thinking that 2009 has been a very gloomy year. It's
very difficult to find some good news in the sea of overwhelming negativity. Every time we turn on the news we're bombarded by negativity;
the economy is bad, swine flu, food recalls, shooting sprees, plane
crashes and the list goes on and on.
What is important to remember is that as unpleasant as all of this
is, it's a part of modern life and that we, as individuals and business
owners, can't let it get us down.
For our businesses, if we let the gloom get us down, it shows. No
matter how upbeat we try to be at our craft fairs or in our blog posts
and emails, the darkness is going to show to your customers and your
sales will reflect it.
That's why it's important to stay strong and focused, even when
the days are dark and rainy. Breathe some new life into your business:
take a class, try a new technique, research new products or packaging,
update your website and stay positive. It is the business people that can
do this that will come out stronger on the other side. Share the load
with other small business people in your area, get together with other
local soapmakers and keep your mind fresh, new and alert to the good
things on the horizon.
Since I have been a member of the HSMG (2004), I have always
been uplifted by the amount of support that members give to each
other. The HSMG has been involved in various forms of social media
over the last year (Facebook, Twitter, forum, blog) and I love to read
the comments of encouragement and offers of assistance that HSMG
soapmakers give to each other. It is in the HSMG mission statement to
act as a center of communication for soapmakers and HSMG members
are making this really easy to fulfill.
Keep focused on why you became a soapmaker and business owner
in the first place: it's fun, rewarding and you are in control of your own
destiny. Remember that while we can't control Mother Nature, the
news or the occasional case of the gloomies, we CAN control our businesses and someday soon the sun will shine again.
Leigh O'Donnell
President
Manufacturer's Safety Data Sheets
Do you need them?
A very common question when you get into soap
industry is: should I collect Material Safety Data
Sheet (MSDS) or not? The best way to answer that
question is with a thorough understanding of what a
MSDS is designed to do. The MSDS is a single document prepared by the manufacturer containing all the
information about the chemical make-up, use, storage,
handling, emergency procedures and the potential
health effects related to raw materials. MSDS were
originally intended for hazardous materials only;
however, now many materials with no hazards have a
MSDS simply for product liability purposes alone.
An ingredient that has an MSDS is not necessarily
a hazardous material or one that causes health effects
in personal care products. The MSDS is simply giving
information about the safe handling of the ingredient
at full concentration, which does not translate to
normal cosmetic usage.
A perfect example of how the MSDS does not translate to the finished product is with lye. The MSDS
would show that it causes eye, skin, digestive, respiratory burns however; in the finished product it causes
no ill effect to the consumer. Unfortunately, MSDS
information has been misused by some to spread
negative propaganda about many ingredients that are
perfectly safe in the finished product.
All MSDSs are required to contain the same
uniform categories of information including: chemical
identity, health hazard data, manufacturer information, precautions for safe handling and use, hazardous
ingredients, exposure controls/personal protection,
physical/chemical properties as well as fire and explosion hazard data.
The purpose of an MSDS is to inform you of
proper handling of a material, first aid treatment,
accident response protocol, effect on human health,
chemicals with which it can adversely react, as well as
the chemical make-up and physical properties prior
to usage. And when new regulatory information
or health effects information becomes available the
MSDS must be updated.
by Kayla Fioravanti
I often hear people complain that MSDSs are hard
to interpret. That's because they were originally for
industrial hygienists, chemical engineers and safety
professionals who were trained to read them. Now
they have become more widely used, but the language
was never changed to laymen terms. Sometime you
will find MSDSs that are formatted differently by some
manufacturers, but they all contain the exact same
information that is required by law. Once you get
the hang of reading MSDS you won’t even notice the
differences.
If you are manufacturing with raw materials you
should get a copy of the MSDS for your knowledge
and records. The most important parts to read include
the name of the material, hazards, safe handling and
storage requirements. Store the MSDS in a file that
will be easy to reach if emergency responders such
as fire fighters, hazardous material crews, emergency
medical technicians and emergency room personnel
need to access them.
If you have employees, you are required by law to
maintain readily accessible MSDS for any hazardous
materials “known to be present” in the workplace.
MSDS are designed for employees who will occupationally come in contact with hazardous materials.
OSHA Hazard Communication Standard requires
that safety training on proper handling of materials be
conducted, that all hazardous material is labeled appropriately and, if you have contractors on the premises,
you must inform them of the potential hazards. The
MSDS is designed to help employers and employees
protect themselves from hazardous chemical exposures
and to teach them to handle material safely. Not only
is it important to take all those steps but it is critical
that you log it or document it all.
Are you left wondering if you need to collect MSDS
sheets are not? The answer is simple. Do any of the
ingredients you use have a hazardous rating above
zero? Do you use lye? Do you have employees? If
you answered yes to any of these questions, then you
should maintain a file of the MSDS sheets for the raw
ingredients you use.
(continued on page 20)
1
Welcome
New Members!
Sheila Aaron
Prairie Soap Company
Handcrafted From The Heart
To Nourish The Soul
Sisa Essence
A diverse selection of pure,
handmade and natural soaps,
bath and body products for
self-indulgence or wonderful gifts.
John Adams
www.latheredup.com
Nadia Abrahamson
Lui Ada
Soap Impressions
Vickie Adams
Patricia Anderson
Soaps Etc. by Dolly & Me, LLC
Scott Anderson
Oils By Nature
Leslee Avery-Beausoleil
RainTree Botanicals LLC
Tanya Azzaro
Iconic Skincare
Kathleen Backus
Aromadies
Olga Barba
SoapScents Designs, Inc.
Brenda Barrow
Sea Mist Ltd
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2
How to Select the Right Shrink
Film for Your Products
by Art Marko
With many different kinds of shrink films each
having different properties, it can be difficult to choose
the best one for your product. This article can help you
understand the qualities of the different types of shrink
films, so you can evaluate the options and choose the
one that's most appropriate for your particular use.
Common Film Types
The two most prevalent film types for wrapping soap
are Polyolefin and PVC. Either type will wrap soap
neatly, but secondary considerations should determine
which you opt for.
sealed.
If you want the glossy finish PVC gives you, but
would still like the scent to come through, you can
use perforated PVC which will give you the best of
both worlds.
All the perforated films allow air to escape from
your package, eliminating the need to manually
puncture the film to allow any air trapped inside
the package to escape. You can also eliminate this
"pillowing" by squeezing the air out (forcing a hole
into the film) or purposely melting a tiny hole into
the film while shrinking, but perforated films eliminate this step entirely.
PVC is a shiny, glossy, crisp film, well suited to packaging single bars, multi-packs, and is the ONLY film for
Melt & Pour Soaps
gift baskets and trays. OK, maybe that's a bit dramatic,
but it's what people seem to expect in the look and feel
Wrapping melt-and-pour soaps is more difficult
of gift baskets and trays. PVC inhibits the exchange of
than cold process. Since the make-up of each bar is
air, letting virtually none of the scent come through. It subject to the recipe, methodology and the whims of
isn't as soft as the polyolefin but works very well. The
the individual, there is no set rule for wrapping them.
6x6 shrink bags many soapmakers use are made of PVC.
When wrapping bars with moist spots, the film
For candles, PVC is the best choice in terms of the
tends to stick to the wettest areas and results in an
smooth and glossy finish of the film, which typically
irregularity on the film surface.
looks better against the surface of your candle. PVC
Most melt and pours, like Olive, Aloe, Honey,
with micro-perforations or a "scent hole" will allow the
fragrance through, while still providing protection from Oatmeal , and other non low-sweat varieties, should
be allowed to dry to the touch before they are
scars, nicks and dings.
wrapped. This will eliminate many of the issues with
Polyolefin, is an acid-free, food grade film that comes glycerine and other "sticky" melt & pours.
in various weights. Typically it feels like a baggie-type
For M&P sold mail-order, or in a retail store, with
sandwich bag and in thinner versions, feels like a
a controlled environment, this exchange of moisture
thickish Saran-type wrap. Polyolefin allows air to pass
through, and allows moisture in and out. The exchange in or out of the bar is a non-issue. On the other
hand, if you take your product to the local farmers
of moisture is inhibited, as compared to a bare, naked
bar, but takes place nonetheless. The fact that air passes market every weekend, and the bars sit exposed to
through polyolefin makes it most suitable for situations the elements for hours on end, beware the extremes
of humidity. You'll want to use non-perforated films
where there are no sample bars to sniff, so it's imporhere.
tant that the scent permeates and exudes through the
film.
Presentation
Pin-Perforated Films
Both PVC and polyolefin films are available with
micro perforations evenly spaced throughout the film,
allowing the scent through, even when completely
ANY film works well with CP. Let the secondary
considerations; scent, strength, look and feel and
personal taste determine which is best.
(continued on page 4)
3
Welcome
New Members!
Karen Bedell
Karen's Naturals
Annette Bell
Home, Health & Beauty Alternatives
Anne Bembenek
Circle A Naturals
Malia Bennett
The Phat Bath Shop
Vicki Bergstresser
Silvia Betancourt
Kerry Biglin
Sagegold Soaps
Judy Bird
Judy Bird Fine Art
Arlene Bishop-Giese
Stacie Blair-Nelson
Missy Bly
Clean City Soap
Debbie Borges
Can't Resist
Marla Bosworth
Back Porch Soap Co.
Tiffanie Bourassa
Compass Rose Soap Company
4
Shrink Film (continued from page 3)
Glycerin, which is found in both MP and cold process soaps, is a humectant.
An unwrapped bar attracts moisture in a humid environment and promotes the
appearance of actual beads of water on the surface, which in turn may promote
microbial growth. In a dry environment, humectants lose moisture, possibly dulling
the finish and drying out your product. The goal is to strike a balance between
protecting the bar from the environment it will be displayed in, and displaying the
merchandise in its most advantageous and attractive light.
If you only wrap bars and loaves, 60 gauge polyolefin is strong enough to stand
up to the handling but thin enough to seal and shrink easily. For wrapping trays
and various containers, 60 gauge polyolefin is a bit on the thin side; 75 gauge
polyolefin is better as it will stand up to the sharp corners and edges trays and
boxes present. It's also better to use if you'll be bundling your bars, making single
package, multi-bar samplers and promotions, or if your bars get handled frequently.
Biodegradable Polyolefin
For several years PLA, a corn-based shrink film, has been available for outer
wrapping on bottles of sports drinks and similar products where a plastic container
is banded with a printed label. Unfortunately, tests have shown that while PLA
does break down, it still leaves tiny plastic particulates. PLA has raised consumer
awareness and enticed socially conscious soapers, but the film is too thick, and
doesn't seal or shrink easily, rendering it unsuitable to package bars of soap.
(continued on page 13)
Feeding Frenzy
Using RSS Feeds
Regularly reading blogs is a great way to keep up-todate on the news within the Soapmaking Community,
but constantly going to each site to check what's new
can be time consuming. So, instead of going to check,
have the news come to you! It's easy if you use RSS
(Really Simple Syndication).
RSS is a system that goes out and checks the blogs
and news sites you specify and retrieves any updates,
which you can view at your leisure.
News Readers
To use RSS feeds, you'll need a news reader, also
called a news aggregator. Google and Yahoo provide
the two most popular news aggregators, but there are
other options available.
To access Yahoo!'s news reader, you need to have
a Yahoo! account. Once you have the account, click
on the tab for My Yahoo! (my.yahoo.com). You can
customize the page with your local weather, TV schedules, sports scores, stock prices, RSS feeds and more.
Google offers two ways to use its news reader (you
have to have a Google account for either of them).
iGoogle (www.google.com/ig) is like My Yahoo! in
Home of the
Original 2-Day
Soapmaking
Boot Camp
People travel from all over to take our popular 2-day Soap
Intensive, which includes 3 classes taught by Lori Nova:
Cold Process 101 (all the basics & more); CP 201:
Intermediate Design techniques like Swirling & Layering,
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David Critchfield.
We also offer private lessons & phone consulting. Located
in historic Point Richmond, CA (near San Francisco).
w w w.T h e Nova Stud io .co m
510-234-5700
that you can bring together content from across the
web, including your RSS feeds. The other option
with Google is the Google Reader (www.google.com/
reader) which just focuses on RSS feeds.
If you use the FireFox browser, there are several
news aggregator plug-ins that work directly through the
FireFox browser, such as Sage and SRR. The Wikipedia (www.wikipedia.com) also has an extensive list of
available RSS readers.
After you've chosen a news reader, you're ready to
begin subscribing to blogs and news feeds.
As you visit blog or news sites you are interested
in, look for the orange RSS feed icon (shown above).
You'll typically see a link to subscribe beside it. Click
the link, then select your news reader. As you surf the
web, watch for sites that have the RSS icon.
When the news arrives, your reader display the
feed and the items. Most readers show the feeds you've
subscribed to and the number new items. Once you
view an item, it's marked as "read".
Now instead of going from site to site to see what's
up, you can just sit back and know that the news will
come to you! •
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Talk to an Expert
Free Initial Consultation
Call Now!
(541) 572-2569
5
Welcome
New Members!
Britton Boyd
Haus of Gloi
Kristin Brayman
Ina Brinkmann
Bella Bina Natural Essentials
Joan Broughton
Joan's Garden
Hope Brown
Kristy Brown
Barely Gentle Bath Bars
Lisa E Bruecks
Bella's Homemade Soap
Colleen Buck
Buck Ridge Soaps LLC
Angela Buckley
Celtic Naturals,LLC
A Special "Thank You" to our
Conference Sponsors!
Tara Bukowsky
Chestnut & Bay Natural Products
Carolyn Burgess
Tim Burk
Burk's Crafts
Robin Caino
Leah Capezio
Blushing Goat Botanicals, LLC
Michael Cappelli
The Lebermuth Company
www.lebermuth.com
Soapzees
Angela Carillo
Debbie Chialtas
SoapyLove
Tony Cipolla
Tony's Finest
Eretta Clark
Narrow Chance
Jeff Cohen
The Soap Gift Shoppe, Inc.
Deena Coile-Parham
Deena-n-Emily
Christina Collins
Mold Market
www.moldmarket.com
www.fromnaturewithlove.com
Sharon Collins
Southern Soapers
Pamela Comeau
Elizabeth Corning
www.southernsoapers.com
Judi Cote
www.brambleberry.com
Selena Cozart
Shay and Company
Cedar Lane Farm
A Perfect Scent, LLC
Salome's Simply Delightful Creations
Lori Curry
Magellan's Gift
Robert Davis
Mary Delmonico
Core Studio 291
Stratus Insurance
www.stratusinc.com
From Nature With Love
Southern Sundries
Sharon Collins/Sole Proprietor
6
Diamond Sponsor
www.essentialwholesale.com
Bramble Berry
www.shayandcompany.com
New Directions
Aromatics
www.newdirectionsaromatics.com
Soapers Choice
Columbus Foods
www.soaperschoice.com
2010 Conference Highlights
See www.soapguild.org/conference for all the details!
▶▶ Conference is open to members and non-members.
▶▶ Registration includes attendance to all classes,
demonstrations and workshops, participation in
door prizes, drawing and prize awards, sponsored
events, optional participation in Soaper's Showcase
and meals and snacks.
▶▶ Main keynote speaker, Ambassador Carol Moseley
Braun, owner and founder of Good Food
Organics, former US Senator from Illinois, and
former US Ambassador to New Zealand.
▶▶ Second Keynote Speaker, Robert Tisserand, author
of two important books on Aromatherapy: The Art of
Aromatherapy: The Healing and Beautifying Properties
of the Essential Oils of Flowers and Herbs; and The Art
of Aromatherapy: To Heal and Tend the Body.
▶▶ Sixteen (16!) different speakers, each a professional
in their field, covering a wide array of subjects of
interest to all soapmakers.
▶▶ Twenty-two (22!) sessions
▶▶ Vendors and Suppliers
▶▶ Goodies and Prizes
▶▶ Essential Wholesale special event
▶▶ Wholesale Supplies Plus special event
▶▶ HSMG Annual Membership Meeting
(HSMG members only)
▶▶ Soapmaker Certification Testing
(HSMG members only)
▶▶ Annual Awards Dinner
7
Welcome
New Members!
Luisa DePaiva
Purple Rain Vineyard
Danielle Devore-Haden
Devore Soaps
Time and Temperature (continued from page 1)
recommended lye concentration averaged between 260 ppt (26.0% reference [1])
and 340 ppt (34.0%, reference [3]). For this study, five water portions were used,
with equivalent lye concentrations between 25.0% and 50.0%. Table 1 shows the
equivalent lye concentrations and moisture concentrations for these soaps.
JoAnn Diaz
Table 1. DSC Samples
Palm Beach Soaps, LLC
Darlene Dollins
Moisture
Content (ppt)
Delight1000Lye288Aq0 (Low-Water)
500
112
JMC2009.3.4.A72
Delight1000Lye288Aq72
417
159
JMC2009.3.4.A144
Delight1000Lye288Aq144 (Medium-Water)
333
201
JMC2009.3.4.A216
Delight1000Lye288Aq216
292
239
JMC2009.3.4.A288
Delight1000Lye288Aq288 (High-Water)
250
274
Formula
Michelle Donohue
JMC2009.3.4.A0
Mary Ehlenfeldt
Homesteaders Cache
Estelril Enterprises
Pamela Elliott
Guyde M. Evasco
Molly Favret
Sally Feihel
Adirondack Suds & Scents
Lisa Fitzgerald
The Glycerin Soap Company
Mark Fleischman
Fleischman's Handmade
Trina Floyd
Chinaberry Dreams Soapworks
Ellen Foote
Fleeta Fore
8
Effective Lye
Concentration
(ppt)
Batch Code
Doll Babies Farm
Ingredients for each soap were added to a 500 mL polypropylene bottle which
was then shaken for 15 seconds using a modified paint shaker. The raw soap was
then poured into a nest of 6-8 Styrofoam coffee cups fitted with a Styrofoam lid,
observation window, and thermometer. The nest of coffee cups attempted to insulate the soap, preventing it from losing heat to the surroundings and simulating
the environment found in a large block mold. Soaps were mixed at several starting
temperatures and the temperature of each soap was recorded as a function of time.
(continued on page 9)
Time and Temperature (continued from page 8)
The less moisture concentration, the harder that
bar of soap will be. If you place that bar into a bowl
of water, however, two phases are in evidence. The
bar picks up some water and softens; the water picks
up some soap and becomes cloudy. The softened
soap may contain 15% water and the soapy water may
contain 1% soap, the exact proportions depending on
the relative sizes of the bar and the
bowl. on page 9)
(continued
Figure 1. Delight/Water Phases
60
o
80
200
neat (gel)
160
curd + neat
120
40
20
0
80
curd (solid)
Temperature /
C
100
300
F
Moisture Content / ppt
200
100
o
Ice, water, and steam exemplify the common
phases: solid, liquid, and gas. If you were to drink
a cup of hot chocolate, you would have no trouble
distinguishing the phases involved. You would say that
the cup in your hands is a solid, the hot chocolate in
that cup is a liquid, and the steam wafting its way to
your nose is a gas. But what about the marshmallows?
When in the bag, they maintain their apparently-solid
shapes. When placed into the hot chocolate, they gradually slump into apparently-liquid goo. Placed into a
microwave oven, they expand like balloons. The phase
structure of the marshmallow is more complicated
than you might have thought. The phase structure of
soap is no less so.
Figure 1 shows the phases present under the conditions of temperature and moisture found in the soap
pot.
Temperature /
Phases
40
Aq 0
Aq 144
Aq 288
(continued on page 10)
You would still have no trouble saying that the bar
is a solid and the soapy water a liquid. But what if the
soap were to become so soft that it slumped into a goo
at the bottom of the bowl? What if the water became
so thick with soap that it could no longer be poured
from the bowl?
Soap chemists have identified many, many phases
of soap, some of which are clearly solid, others that
are clearly liquid, and some that seem to cross the
boundary between solid and liquid.5 Two phases in
particular are central to our discussion of time and
temperature. Your solid bar of soap may contain as
many as three distinct solid phases at room temperature. The differences between these phases are subtle,
however, and need not concern us. Soapmakers refer
to this mixed solid phase as soap curd. When heated,
curd melts into a gelatinous phase, neat soap, that looks
something like petroleum jelly. The temperature at
which soap curd melts into neat soap depends on the
moisture concentration.
5 For a detailed discussion of the phase structure of soap, see
reference [8].
9
Welcome
New Members!
Debra Fox
Berkeley Soapworks
Pamela Franklin
CahabaWaters Bath & Body
Cheryl Fraser
Essence Soap
Carissa Fulkerson
Michelle Gambler
Lather Lovely
Lynn Gardipee
Natural Beauty of Las Vegas, LLC
Katherine Gavin
Soap For The Soul, LLC
Teri Gibson
Body Products by Celeste
Kendra Gilbert
Fae Bae
Joyce Gilmore
Victorian Charm
Karyn Gold
Pirouette
Heidi Goldberg
Bodygoodies
Kim Gonzaga
Stella Marie Soap Company
Michael Goonan
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Kim Hall
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Up North Scents
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Dr Angela Harpe
DAE Natural Soaps
Robert Hastings
WonderBar Health & Beauty
Jill Hennig
Sweet Pea Creations, LLC
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Soap Alchemy LLC
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Sinclaire's Soap
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M'Lady's
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Ambrosia Soap Company
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The Earth's Cauldron
Rebecca Hunter
Pearlcreek Goat Milk Soap Co.
Patricia Hyland
Nilda Irizarry
Fruitful Essence
10
Time and Temperature (continued from page 9)
At low temperature, soap appears as soap curd, regardless of its moisture concentration. At high temperature, it appears as neat soap. The “melting point,” however,
is very dependent on moisture concentration. Low-water soaps melt at temperatures
near the boiling point of water; high-water soaps melt at significantly lower temperatures. Medium-water soaps like Delight1000Lye288Aq144 begin melting at about 60±C,
but the phase change is not complete until about 70±C. Between these two temperatures, both phases are present—pockets of interspersed neat and curd soap.
It might be said, then, that soap curd begins melting at one temperature and
finishes at a higher temperature. Similarly, neat soap begins freezing at one temperature and finishes at another, lower temperature. A high-water soap, however, melts
and freezes at approximately the same temperature. Studying Figure 1 allows us to
understand the phase changes that occur in the soap pot during saponification.
Temperature
Saponification is an exothermic reaction—it releases heat. Some of this heat is
absorbed by the raw soap and its temperature rises. Some of the heat is lost to the
mold and to the room; their temperatures also rise. And if the temperature of the
soap is in the appropriate range, some of the heat is absorbed as the raw soap melts.
In thinking about time and temperature, it will help us to remember that the heat
produced will either raise the temperature of the soap and its surroundings or it will
change the soap from one phase to another.
Let us imagine that we mix the oil and lye for
a low-water formula at a relatively low temperature. Let us imagine, as well, that the container
is so well insulated that we may initially neglect
heat lost to the mold and the room. As the
saponification reaction proceeds, the heat
produced warms the raw soap and its temperature rises. At the same time, however, the oil and
lye are consumed and, as they are depleted, the
reaction eventually slows.
(continued on page 12)
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Gertrude Johnson
Katherine Johnson
Farm Maid Soap
Joshua Jones
Liberty Artisan Brands
Robert Jones
The Kingston Soap Company
Vicki Jurica
Prairie Belle's Cottage
Jennifer Kam Sheun
DOBO Company
Nora Kantwerk
Prairie Essence
Kathy King
Elissa Klaver
SALUS
Victoria Koehmlein
Victorian Divine Indulgence
Elke Lagace
Elke's Essentials
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Betty Lamm
K'Bees
Cheryl Laneres
Bubbles & Bubbles
Dawn Lawrence
Aurora Naturel
Dawn Lawson
Country Crow Arts & Crafts
Patty Ledbetter
Nature Soapworks
Camille Lee
Soyphisticated Candles
Jeffrey Lee
Fizzles Bath And Body
Heather Lewis
Lucky Bamboo
Monica Logsdon
Delaware Candle & Soap Co.
Alexandra Lucas
Christine Lyons
CL Apothecary
Patricia Manley
F
o
Temperature /
C
o
120
40
Aq0
Aq72
Aq144
Aq216
Aq288
20
0
0
80
40
50
100
150
Time / min
200
The highest curve tracks the temperature of a low-water soap,
Delight1000Lye288Aq0,with the oil and lye mixed at 40±C (104±F). After 37 minutes
in the mold, the temperature peaks at 84±C (183±F). If the mold had been better
insulated, it might have peaked later and at a higher temperature. But even this
peak temperature is nowhere near the melting point of this low-water soap and so
the temperature simply rises for a while, peaks, and falls.
The lowest curve in Figure 2 tracks the temperature of a high-water soap,
Delight1000Lye288Aq288. The temperature of this soap rises only to 45±C (113±F) a
mere 24 minutes after mixing. Clearly, this high-water soap must saponify more
slowly than its low-water cousin. Because they contain the same quantities of oil and
lye, both reactions must release the same amount of heat, but the low-water soap
does so in a short amount of time while the high-water soap releases heat gradually
over a longer period. Delight1000Lye288Aq216 is particularly interesting—it maintains
a nearly constant temperature for a long period of time. The lesson of Figure 2 is
pretty clear: low-water soaps saponify more quickly than high-water soaps.
What happens if we
Figure 3. Low-Water Saponification
increase the temperature
of the oil and lye before
100
they are mixed? Figure 3
80
tracks the temperatures of
60
three soaps, all Delight1000Lye288Aq0, identical except for
40
their mixing temperatures.
hot
20
warm
The soap labeled cold was
cold
0
mixed at 40±C (104±F),
0
50
100
150
Time / min
that labeled warm at 58±C
(136±F), and that labeled hot at 65±C (149±F).
200
solid
160
120
80
F
Mary Johnson
Retriever Soapworks
160
60
o
Linda Jines
"Sweet Cakes Soaps, Inc."
200
80
Temperature /
Morgan Street
Temperature /
Pamela Jameson
Sharon Jenkins
Figure 2. Low-Temperature Saponification
100
C
SoapArt
At some point, heat will
be lost to the mold and
room at the same rate that
it is produced by the reaction; the temperature will
stop rising and, as the rate of
heat production falls further,
the soap will begin to cool.
We can see this behavior in
Figure 2.
o
Jamie Jackson
Time and Temperature (continued from page 10)
Temperature /
Welcome
New Members!
40
200
The lowest curve of this graph is identical to the highest curve of Figure 2. From
these curves we can see that the warmer the starting temperature, the sooner and
higher the temperature peaks. This trend indicates that warmer soaps saponify more
quickly than cooler ones. Coupled with the information from the previous figure,
we can say that warm, low-water soaps saponify more quickly than cool, high-water
soaps. This would be the end of the story were it not for the possibility of a phase
change during saponification.
Felicity Bath & Body
(continued on page 14)
12
Shrink Film (continued from page 4)
The newest innovation in wrapping soap is truly
biodegradeable polyolefin, now produced by Bolore
under the Biolefin label. It is an "oxo-biodegradable"
film. It contains a new, non-toxic, food-safe additive
(TDPA) that will break down in 3 - 5 years in any recyclable environment, completely returning the film and
all the plastic in it to the bio-cycle. Unlike PLA, it does
not leave plastic particulates — all parts of it break down
completely.
With the new Biolefin product, biodegradable
shrink film is within the grasp of the soapmaking
community. It is even available with micro-perforations!
The shelf-life of this biodegradable film is approximately 18 months to 2 years in a controlled environment. The cost of wrapping your typical bar is roughly
2-3 cents per bar using smaller, converted, 500' rolls
Purchasing in larger rolls can further reduce the cost.
Summary
The sniffy customer that touches nose to soap can
inadvertently leave bacteria behind which can take on
a life of its own. Bacteria encourages signs of "soap
gone bad" (spotting, mold, and/or odor) — a veritable
"flu stew". Nearly every soapmaker has stories about
customers sniffing and then putting that bar back on
the pile to pick up a "fresh" one to actually buy.
If that's not a strong reason to wrap soap and still
keep it sniffable, what is? •
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13
Olive Leaf Soap
Aydilien Martina
Rija Soap
Cheryl Masani
Natural Approaches
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Sally B Farms
Kelly McDowell-DeVires
Terri McGavock
Kiss Soaps
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The Land of Milk and Honey
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Elvenred
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STEM
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14
In the following
discussion, we make the
simplifying assumption
that soap is produced
as oil and lye react, and
that the melting behavior
of this oil/soap/water
mixture is similar to that
of a soap/water mixture.
Let us see how far this
assumption can take us in
understanding soaps that
undergo phase changes
during saponification.
F
Victoria Marsted
Christine Martin
o
Left Coast Soap and Candle Co.
Temperature /
Cynthia Markham
Neil Marshall
20
0
hot
warm
cold
0
40
50
100
150
Time / min
200
Aq 144 (Medium-Water)
100
200
80
neat
solid
60
160
120
40
20
hot
warm
cold
80
Temperature / oF
Clean Getaway Soap Company
Before we consider this possibility, however, I must point out that the melting
points of Figure 1 were
determined by heating
Figure 4. Medium-Water Saponification
finished soaps, not raw
Aq 72
ones. The technique used
100
200
to produce this phase
neat
solid
diagram, Differential
80
160
Scanning Calorimetry
(DSC), would be much
60
complicated were we to
120
40
use it while the soap was
still saponifying.
80
Temperature / oC
Lyndsey Mann
Time and Temperature (continued from page 12)
Temperature / oC
Welcome
New Members!
Figure 4 tracks the
40
0
temperature for two soaps,
0
50
100
150
200
Time / min
Delight1000Lye288Aq72 and
Delight1000Lye288Aq144,
each at three starting temperatures. In each graph, a horizontal line shows the
boundary between soap curd and neat soap.6
The Aq72 soap behaves much like a low-water soap. The temperature of the hot
soap rises quickly to a peak and then cools relatively rapidly. The cold soap warms
more slowly and stays warm longer, indicating that the saponification is slower at
low temperature. Even the hot soap, however, is just shy of the boundary between
curd and neat soap. Given our simplifying assumption, we expect that this soap
solidifies after mixing and remains solid throughout the saponification. This is
exactly what was observed for this soap. We suppose that if the soap had been a
little warmer, it would have entered the neat phase.
The Aq144 soaps mixed at the lowest two starting temperatures behave as we
might expect. They warm and cool more slowly than their low-water cousins and
their peak temperatures are lower. At the highest temperature, however, the peak
temperature is nearly as high as that of Aq72 at the same starting temperature.
6 Recall from Figure 1 that these soaps begin melting at about 60±C. The boundaries shown here
are the temperatures at which the melting is complete.
(continued on page 16)
15
Elise Pearlstine
Tambela, LLC
Erica Pence
Carolyn Penrose
Carma Soap Co.
Crystelle Perlas
Eleanor Phillips
Soma and Soul
Katherine Phillips
Elder Forest Soap
Mary Phipps
Pleasant River Soap Company
Julie Pieper
The Parsonage
Vickie Pierce
The Stone Wytch
Claude Poissonniez
Sky Valley Farm, Inc.
Dian Poitras
The Gingham Turtle Soaps & Such
David Powers
Stone Cottage Soapworks Inc
Ashley Quinn
ertha
Harold Rader
Rader Soap Company
Tracy Ragan
Ashfield Soap Company
Ashley Ray
Ruth Redmon
Anton Karl Farms, Inc.
Michelle Rhoades
Jennifer Riter
Butterfly Creations
Adrianne Roberts
Fragrant Offering LLC
Gina Roberts
Soapcraft
Geraldine Robinson
Stacey Root
Good Natured Soaps LLC
Ann Rose
Botany Bath Works
Kellie Rowe
Sherol Roy
Soap Me Up!
16
Given our earlier observations, it is easy to explain the behavior of the high-water
soaps detailed in Figure 5. The boundary between curd and neat soaps is approximately the same for both soaps. Soaps that begin at or above this temperature enter
the neat phase, though some earlier than others. When they enter neat phase, the
temperatures of these soaps increase as the rate of saponification increases. Soaps
started at a low temperature, however, warm only slightly and stay warm for a long
period of time, never entering the neat phase. We may expect high-water soaps to
enter the neat phase as long as their starting temperatures are sufficiently high.
We may now generalize the phase behavior of soap during saponification:
◊ For soaps that begin at the same temperature, low-water soaps saponify more
quickly than high-water soaps and, as a consequence, reach higher peak temperatures.
◊ The peak temperatures of
low-water soaps, however,
are below their melting
points and we do not
expect them to enter the
neat phase.
◊ The neat phase is
attained only by highwater soaps heated to
sufficiently high initial
temperatures.
◊ A soap may be forced
into the neat phase by
simultaneously raising
its temperature and its
moisture concentration.
The exact temperature
required, however, will
depend on the size and
shape of the mold, on
the mix of oils, and
on the presence of any
scents or additives that
hasten or retard saponification.
Figure 5. High-Water Saponification
Aq 216
100
200
80
neat
solid
60
160
120
40
20
0
80
hot
warm
cold
0
F
Millcreek Valley Farm
o
TinCup Arts. LLC
Heidi Owens Hart
Garaleen Parks
Temperature /
Ann OSullivan
Christie Ott
40
50
100
150
Time / min
200
Aq 288 (High-Water)
100
200
80
neat
solid
60
160
120
40
20
0
80
hot
warm
cold
0
Temperature / oF
World Label.com
Moreover, the peak temperature of this soap is higher than its melting point. We
would expect to see this soap enter the neat phase; that is exactly what was observed.
A small spot of darker, gelatinous soap grew larger and larger until the entire soap
looked like Vaseline. The increase in temperature as the soap melted indicates that
the rate of saponification is higher in the neat phase than in the curd. We are also
vindicated in our simplifying assumption—the observed phase change in the raw
soap coincides with that in finished soap of the same composition.
Temperature / oC
Russell Ossendryver
Time and Temperature (continued from page 14)
Temperature / oC
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New Members!
40
50
100
150
Time / min
200
(continued on page 18)
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17
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Nancy Ruiz-Hudson
Semblance Soaps
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Harper Hill Farm
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Goat Milk Therapy LLC
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Bare Scentsations
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Naked Body Care Inc
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KIND Soap Company
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The Velvet Pod
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Olive Leaf Soap
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Scents & Sensilbility, Inc.
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"Bubble Hut, Inc."
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LP Duo, LLC
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The OV Soap Company
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Herbal Escents
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Mellabelle Designs
Time and Temperature (continued from page 16)
To Gel or Not To Gel
We have yet to consider whether or not neat (gel) soap is desirable. Three of our
formulas produced soaps that melted at the highest initial temperature, but not at
the lowest.
We compared the hot and cold varieties of Aq144, Aq216, and Aq288 but found no
differences in appearance, alkalinity, or texture between soaps of the same formula.
Only in one respect did we find a difference between soaps that had melted and
those that had not.
Following an experiment described in reference [7], we cut cylinders of finished
soap and suspended them in cups of water for a period of 6 hours. In each case,
the soaps that had melted (reached gel stage) swelled less than those that had not.
The picture (to right) shows five Aq216 soaps with starting temperatures ranging
from 40±C to 70±C. The three leftmost soaps remained solid during saponification
while the two rightmost ones melted during saponification. Even between the soaps
started at 60±C and 65±C, there is a striking difference in swelling between the
soaps that did and did not melt.
We might wonder whether hot soaps swell less than cold ones, regardless of
whether they melted. Hot and cold varieties of low-water soaps (none of which
melted) showed no difference in swelling behavior, so we believe that melting,
not temperature alone, is
responsible for this difference. While we might
expect the melted soaps to
maintain their shapes better
in the soap dish, the difference is so subtle that we can
find little reason to prefer
soaps that have melted
over those that have not.
Within a partially-melted
soap, however, there may be
a visible boundary between
the areas that melted and
those that did not. For this
reason, soapmakers may
prefer to make soap that
has melted completely or
not at all.
This study has focused
on a single, unscented oil
blend. The temperature
boundary between neat and
curd soap will be different
for other blends. The rate
(continued on page 19)
18
Time and Temperature (continued from page 19)
of heat loss, and hence the peak temperature, will also
depend on the size and shape of the mold. For this
reason, we can make no dogmatic claim in favor of one
particular starting temperature or moisture concentration. But we expect the relationship between temperature, moisture concentration, phase behavior, and time
to be similar for other oil blends.
If you have a blend that melts in a particular mold
at a particular starting temperature, you may expect
that decreasing the temperature and the water portion
may prevent the next batch from melting. If you have
a blend that does not melt, increasing the temperature
and water portion may cause the next batch to melt.
And if you have a blend that melts partially, you may
adjust the temperature and moisture to ensure that the
next batch behaves as you wish.
For delicate scents, you may prefer a soap that stays
warm without getting too hot. A soap that has melted,
however, may maintain its shape better in the soap
dish. The results of this study will allow you to choose
the conditions of temperature and moisture that best
suit your needs.
Acknowledgements
The authors would like to thank Mike Lawson and
Columbus Foods [9] for the donation of oils that supported
this research. They would also like to thank Jody Aiken, Steve
Sealschott, David Bohlen, Kassy Pelzel, and Pauline Vu of
Proctor and Gamble for the DSC and XRD data that made
the construction of Figure 1 possible.
References
[1] Ann Bramson, Soap: Making it, Enjoying it, 1972, ISBN
0-911104-57-7.
[2] Susan Cavitch, The Soapmaker’s Companion, 1997,
ISBN 0-88266-965-6.
[3] Robert McDaniel, Essentially Soap, Krause Publications,
Iola, WI, 2000, 125 pp., ISBN 0-87341-832-8.
[4] Anne Watson, Smart Soapmaking, 2007, ISBN 978-0938497-42-4.
[5] Official Methods and Practices of the AOCS, American
Oil Chemists’ Society, Champaign, IL, 2003.
[6] Kevin M Dunn, “The “Water Discount””, Journal of the
Handcrafted Soap Makers Guild (http://soapguild.org),
2008, 2008-2.
[7] R. H. Ferguson, F. B.. Rosevear, and R. C. Stillman,
“Solid Soap Phases”, Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 1943, 35, (9), pp. 1005-1012.
[8] Antonio Neto and Silvio Salinas, The Physics of Lyotropic
Liquid Crystals, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2005,
ISBN 0198525508.
[9] Columbus Foods, (www.SoapersChoice.com/).
19
Welcome
New Members!
Lisa Tarris
Seascape Soap Company
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Evergood Farm
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Snowy Owl Cove
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Earthistry
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Faith's Charity Soap Company
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I'NARU' Bath & Body
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Natural Bath & Body Shop
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In addition to having MSDS sheets on hand for any hazardous materials on
hand, proper signage is also a good idea. You don’t really want your emergency
responder to have to read the whole sheet instead if they are there trying to deal
with a fire, flood or other emergency situation!
The National Fire Protection Association
(NFPA) believes that MSDSs and labeling of
materials with the NFPA hazard diamond
are relevant for anything flammable. The
NFPA hazard diamond uses a standard
(blue)
system for identification of hazards of
materials for emergency response. By
seeing the hazard diamond and/or other
signage, they know exactly how to handle the
materials.
(red)
3
The Hazard Diamond for both sodium (NaOH)
and potassium (KOH) hydroxide is shown here. The
blue box (left side) signifies the health hazard, the red box
shows the flammability, the yellow box shows reactivity and the white box on the bottom shows other
hazard information. A complete explanation of
the hazard diamond ratings is available here:
http://safety.nmsu.edu/programs/chem_
safety/hazcom_NFPA_labels.htm. The
page also has a link to a searchable database
of chemicals to get their rating(s).
0
(white)
1
(yellow)
NaOH or KOH
Hazard Diamond
Of course, all lye containers should also be
labeled as corrosive, both for your protection and
for the protection of your employees, contractors and
any emergency responders.
Essential and fragrance oils may also pose health or safety issues in the event of a
major spill, fire or other emergency. Your supplier should provide you with MSDS
sheets that will give you the pertinent information. If you have large quantities of
flammable essential or fragrance oils, they should be appropriately labeled so they
can be properly dealt with in an emergency.
Understanding your raw ingredients, knowing the safety issues they might
present in the case of a fire or other disaster is the first step in keeping you, your
employees, family and emergency responders safe. Getting and reading the MSDS
sheets for your ingredients (especially those that could be hazardous in large quantities) is the first step. If you have any questions about your raw materials, contact
your supplier for more information.
Resources
Soaps 'n Such
http://www.nfpa.org/
Tanya Zito
http://www.msdssearch.com/DBLinksN.htm
Canticle Herbs and Botanicals
20
MSDS Sheets (continued from page 1)
http://www.osha.gov/
http://safety.nmsu.edu/programs/chem_safety/hazcom_NFPA_labels.htm.
Handcrafted Soapmakers Guild, Inc.
PO Box 5103
Portland, OR 97208-5103
(See pages 6 - 7 for more info)
PRSRT STD
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PAID
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