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Drake’s hub caps
have superior details:
Our hub caps are each made with the same
attention to quality and detail matching
the originals. You’ll notice clear differences
between ours and other suppliers in
that Drake’s feature crisp, sharp insignias
formed by highly precise dies.
This tooling is made by expert craftsmen who understand
the importance of having just the right amount of distance
between the dies in order to match the material thickness.
This produces a perfectly stamped piece having no
distortion, waves or cracks. The high grade stainless
steel is then polished to a brilliant, mirror-like gleam.
You can give your car a whole different look by
adding or changing the hub caps and beauty rings.
Ours are made using the finest stainless steel then
finished with a super smooth buff that surpasses
the shine of the originals. We make our hub caps
and beauty rings one at a time without
letting even the smallest of flaws
get by. Why not dress your
car in the very best?
Bob Drake Reproductions Inc.
is licensed by the Ford Motor
Company to manufacture and
distribute Ford Trademark Products
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(800) 221-3673
Hubcaps
VENTS
VENTED VS SOLID
Original style steel wheels are often called vented.
This term comes from the openings or windows
between the wheel center and the outer rim.
Solids are just that - solid. They do not have this opening.
81/8"
1940-1948 FORD
PASSENGER
1940-1956
FORD PICKUP
HUB CAPS
INNER RETAINING BUMPS
ACCEPTS 1940-48 FORD PASSENGER &
1940-56 FORD PICKUP
HUB CAPS
HUB CAP MOUNTING
Our 1940-48 Ford Passenger &
1940-56 Ford Pickup hub caps fit
wheels that have inner bumps to
capture the outside flange of the
cap. Our 1949-50 Ford Passenger
hub caps fit wheels that have outer
bumps that the cap pops over.
101/4"
1949-1950 FORD
PASSENGER
HUB CAPS
OUTER RETAINING BUMPS
ACCEPTS 1949-50 FORD PASSENGER
HUB CAPS
www.bobdrake.com
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Our 1932-1935 polished
stainless steel hub caps
now come with painted
insignias to perfectly
match the originals.
t
We pain !
’em blue
40-1130-B
1934 V8 Car & Pickup
1932-35 Hub Caps
18-1130
1932 V8 Car & Pickup
40-1130-A
1933 V8 Car & Pickup
40-1130-C
1934 4-Cylinder Car & Pickup
48-1130
1935 Car & Pickup
B-1130-A
1932-33 4-Cylinder Car
& Pickup
ic e
Your Cho ch
ea
$30.0 0
1932-35 BABY MOONS
Polished stainless steel, perfect detail.
$30.00 each
18-1130-BM
B-1130-BM
1936 Car
hub caps
40-1130-BM
Drake’s hub caps
have superior details:
Just like original with a black steel
body topped by a beautifully
polished stainless cap. Designed
to perfectly fit original wheels.
Center circle and insignia come
unpainted.
68-1130
$55.00 each
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Our male and female dies are
made super-precise leaving only
material thickness between the
two halves. This makes nice,
crisp insignias stamped into the
surface, perfectly matching the
beautiful original Ford detail
unlike caps from other makers.
(800) 221-3673
We Now
m
Paint ’e
Designed to fit original Ford wheels.
Polished stainless steel as original with PAINTED insignias.
For use on aftermarket wheels, please contact the wheel manufacturer
to verify compatibility with original Ford or Bob Drake hub caps.
01A-1130-P 1940 Deluxe
Painted $40.00 each
1942 Car, 1946 Pickup
21A-1130-P
Painted $40.00 each
1940 Standard Car, 1940 Pickup
01C-1130-P
51A-1130-P
Painted $40.00 each
1946 Car
Painted $40.00 each
Hubcaps
1940-48 Hub Caps
1941 Car, 1941-42 Pickup
11A-1130-P
Painted $40.00 each
1947-48 Car, 1947-56 Pickup
6A-1130-P
Painted $40.00 each
’41 Closeout
Discontinued when
stock is gone
1941 Car, 1941-42 Pickup
C1TZ-1130-SS
1961-66 Pickup, Will fit 1940-48 Car.
$30.00 each
11A-1130
www.bobdrake.com
Unpainted
$20.00 each
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1940-48 Baby Moons
Same Caps As on previous page
Without stamped insignias
Baldies, smoothies, moons, etc. It’s all the
same great ’50s Nostalgia look. Painted
or chrome wheels, either way is cool.
Create your own look and cruise the
boulevard. Non-Ford cars can look cool
too, as these caps fit a wide variety of
Detroit iron.
If you have aftermarket wheels, check
with the manufacturer to find out if
they're compatible with original Ford or
Bob Drake hub caps.
$35.00 each
01C-1130-BM
01A-1130-BM
Bob Drake Reproductions Inc. is
licensed by the Ford Motor Company
to manufacture and distribute
Ford Trademark Products
11A-1130-BM
21A-1130-BM
1949-50 Hub Caps
These works of art feature the same fine fit and details as the originals except they’re not chrome-plated
steel, but beautifully polished stainless. Say so-long to pitted, peeling chrome.
8A-1130
1949-50 Car
Baby Moon
$40.00 each
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Hubcaps
Beauty Rings
1940-46
FORD
1947-48
FORD
1947-48 MERCURY,
OLDS & BUICK
4 RIBBED STYLE
01A-18303-14 14"
01A-18303-15 15"
01A-18303-16 16"
SMOOTH STYLE
6A-18303-14 14"
6A-18303-15 15"
6A-18303-16 16"
WAVE STYLE
59A-18303-14 14"
59A-18303-15 15"
Polished stainless steel.
$35.00 each
1940 & Up
Inner Beauty Ring set
Original
Ford
Accessory
1949-51
FORD
SMOOTH
CONVEX STYLE
8A-18303-14
14"
8A-18303-15
15"
All-stainless steel rings fit snugly
around hub caps and snap to
rims. Working in conjunction
with the beauty ring, it gives the
appearance of a full, shiny stainless
steel wheel. For 16" vented Ford
style wheels only. Set of 4.
01A-18331-S $225.00 set
01A-18331 $60.00 each
Own
Bob’sation !
Cre
Wheel Wizard™
Safely removes trim rings, hub caps and lug nuts without
damaging anything. The Wheel Wizard is an ingenious tool
made entirely of high grade steel that won’t bend or break.
Features a ½" square socket-drive end for lug nut socket. Also
works great as an extended handle for hydraulic or mechanical
jacks. It’s the coolest wheel tool yet for every-day shop use or
roadside emergencies. Keep one in the car and another handy
in the shop. Makes a perfect gift. Lug-nut socket not included.
TL-110 $38.50 set
Heavy Duty
Tote-bag
Included
Bar features ½" socketdrive end for lug nuts.
www.bobdrake.com
Hub Caps
Beauty Rings
Lug Nuts
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We Built The Die
Shown here is master machinist, Lynn, polishing the core of a
hubcap stamping die. Notice the heavy, tool-steel guide-pins.
Yes, they are overkill but they ensure perfect alignment which
is necessary to ensure the high-quality appearance we demand
for you.
E TEAM
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B
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THRIVES O
HUB CAP
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LINE IS HE MARKET”
“BEST ON T IT OUT!
CHECK
Bob Drake Photo
From the collections of The Henry Ford
This fellow is punching the valve stem relief in the beauty ring.
From the collections of The Henry Ford
These guys are readying a run of hub caps for a trip to the
paint booth.
Remember, these guys have to work four times faster than the rest of the assembly line.
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Hubcaps
s
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AB
Of Skins & Rims
DETERMINING SIZE OF WHEELS
Picking wheels and tires for your new ride can be the toughest part of the project. Once you have decided on the look
you want, determining size is the next step. What you want and what you can have are often not the same. Follow along
and we’ll give you some tips.
Step 1.
Jack up your car and put jack stands under the suspension (not the frame). This will put your hubs in the fender opening
where they will be when the car is on the ground.
FENDER
Step 2.
Lay a straight edge vertically across the wheel mounting flange
so that it extends up into the fender. Now measure:
1. From this extension into the body and
DIMENSION
#2
DIMENSION #1
2. Towards you to the inside lip of the fender and
3. From the center of the hub up to the top of the fender.
Record these measurements. Now you’re starting to get an idea
of what you can have.
Step 3.
Take the #3 measurement and subtract 3 to 4 inches for
suspension travel, then double it. This will give you the tallest
tire height you can run. Now add up #1 & #2 measurement.
This will give you the widest cross section (not tread
width) that you can run.
DIMENSION #3
AXLE
BRAKE DRUM
STEP 2.
Now, we’ll take just a minute to talk about tire size. We won’t go into a whole lot of detail here - just basics. Your friendly
neighborhood tire dealer will have charts showing the various dimensions of different tires. The Coker Tire Co. has good
tables in their catalog.
TIRE SIZE
There are 3 dimensions on a tire that you care about.
1. Side wall diameter or height. This will tell you how tall the tire is.
3. CROSS
SECTION
2.
TREAD
2. Tread. This tells you how wide just the tread is - “Where the rubber meets the road”.
1. SIDE
WALL
3. Cross section - This is normally the widest part of the tire. This is the dimension that
can rub paint off your fenders. This measurement is taken across the tire about half
way up the sidewall.
Today’s radial tire sizes can seem very confusing, but they are not all that tough if
you do a little math. If a tire size is 225/60R15 it tells us that the cross section is
225 millimeters wide (about 87/8").
Yes it would be a lot simpler if the rest of the world did it our way but we are
in the minority here. The 60 says that the section height or sidewall (from the inside
bead that sits on the wheel to the top of the tread) is 60% of the cross section or
87/8" x .60 = 53/8". The R means radial and the 15 corresponds to wheel diameter.
RIM
TIRE
TIRE SIZE
So, because the 60 is a percentage ratio it means that as this number goes up (70-75-78) the tire gets taller and has a
narrower tread. Conversely as this number goes down (50-40-35) the tire gets shorter and has a wider tread.
Now that you know all this, you are ready to pick a tire size for your car. Wheels are next.
www.bobdrake.com
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Of Wheels
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AB
WHEELS
Usually a wheel will be listed as 14 x 6 or 15 x 8 etc. The
first number is the diameter of the wheel and needs to
be the same as the last number in the tire size. The last
number is the wheel width.
There is also another number which is very important.
This is offset or backspace. If you take the tire you just
bought and put it in the fender opening you will notice
that the middle of the tire probably is not centered over
the mounting flange of the hub. This is where offset
comes in.
When a wheel listed as 15 x 8 offers a backspace of
4½" this means that 4½" of the wheel is inboard of the
mounting flange and 3½" is outboard to total 8". A 15 x
10 with 4½" backspace would have 5½" to the outside.
Let’s run through a quick exercise. Don’t take all of
these numbers as gospel because your measurements
can be different, especially on tires. Remember back
in Step 2 when you took measurement #1, #2 & #3?
Let’s say that #1 is 6" and #2 is 5" for a total of 11".
The 225/60R15 we talked about had a cross section
of 87/8" (we’ll call it 9"). This means that 4½" of tire is
inboard and 4½" is outboard. Dimension #2 is 5". That
only gives you ½" clearance between the tire and the
fender using a centered wheel. If you use the 15 x 8
with a backspace of 4½" that we talked about earlier,
here’s what happens: The front side of the wheel is
now 3½" which is ½" shallower than it would be on
a centered wheel at 4". In essence the outer wheel
has been moved back ½" extra so you now have 1"
clearance between the tire and the fender. Working
out the numbers you also have 1" clearance on the
backside - Perfect.
A
B
WHEEL DIMENSIONS
Wheel dimensions can be somewhat confusing so we’ll explain them for you.
A. This is the overall width of the wheel. It is the total of C & D and
usually ¾" to 1" greater than B.
B. This measurement is across the wheel between the mounting beads.
This is the area that the tire sits in. When you see a wheel listed as
15 x 8 then dimension B is 8".
C. This is measured from the mounting flange to the back edge of the
wheel. Sometimes called backspace.
D.
C
This is measured from the mounting flange to the front edge
of the wheel. Sometimes called front space.
*The difference between B & C is called offset. If D is less
than C this is negative offset. Then if C is less than D it
is positive offset.
VENTED vs SOLID
Original style steel wheels are often called vented.
This term comes from the openings or windows
between the wheel center and the outer rim.
Solids are just that - solid. They do not have this opening.
VENTS
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Hubcaps
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Of Wheels
C
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BOLTING YOUR WHEEL TO THE HUB
Different styles of wheels use different styles of lug nuts.
FLAT
Aluminum or Mag wheels sometimes use a flat face
or a rounded face nut. Steel wheels including wire wheels usually use a beveled edge nut.
ROUNDED
BEVELED
Make sure the nut is the same diameter and thread as the stud. Chevrolet normally has a 7/16-20 stud where Ford and Mopar
use a ½ x 20 stud. Way back when, some cars used RH and LH thread. This is very uncommon, but watch for it.
When bolting the wheel on, it’s best to seat a lug nut snugly on each stud before tightening. To uniformly seat the wheel
on the hub go around the wheel in a sequence (every other nut on a 5 lug wheel) tighten a little more each round until the
correct torque specification is met.
Using the wrong lug nuts or not tightening them properly could result in you being in the ditch with sheared studs as your
tire heads on down Route 66 into the sunset without you.
BOLT PATTERNS
This pattern is expressed as the diameter of an imaginary circle that passes through the center of each bolt hole regardless
of the number of holes. 4, 5, 6 & 8 lug wheels are all measured in this way. The expression 5 on 4½ just means that there are
5 holes equally spaced around a 4½" diameter circle.
Measuring the bolt pattern on a 4, 6 or 8 lug wheel is pretty simple. Just measure from
the center of any hole to the center of the hole directly opposite and you’ve got it.
On a 5 lug wheel, go from the center of any hole across the center to a point midway
between the centerline of the two opposite holes.
Remember also that Ford and Mopar use a larger stud so the
lug hole in the wheel is larger than GM's.
HUB CAP MOUNTING
Our 1940-1948 Ford Car & 1940-1956 Ford Pickup hub caps fit our wheels that have
inner bumps to capture the outside flange of the cap. Our 1949-1950 Ford Car hub
caps fit our wheels that have outer bumps that the cap pops over.
OUR HUB CAPS AND BEAUTY RINGS FIT OUR WHEELS.
10¼"
81/8"
1940-48 FORD CAR
1940-56 FORD PICKUP
HUB CAPS
INNER RETAINING BUMPS
ACCEPTS 1940-48 FORD CAR & 1940-56 FORD PICKUP
HUB CAPS
www.bobdrake.com
1949-50 FORD CAR
HUB CAPS
OUTER RETAINING BUMPS
ACCEPTS 1949-50 FORD CAR
HUB CAPS
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