Torrent Falls
Directions
From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive 7.5 miles south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11 to a gravel drive on the right leading
to a couple of log cabins. You will pass a large clearcut area on the right with a large log cabin about a mile before you reach
Torrent Falls. The large clearcut area with a log cabin used to be Church Rock until the owner of the land decided to build a
Via Ferrata structure and close the wall to climbing.
Park anywhere you can being careful not to block any drives or other cars. Walk up the stairs to the right, past a small log cabin,
to the base of the wall. You will end up near the "5.11 Wall". Feel free to donate a couple of bucks to the landowners by
dropping the money in a box at the bottom of the stairs.
Important
Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently
dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and
caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route
length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally). The authors of this guidebook do
not recognise any liablity for injuries caused to climbers who use this information as a means to their own safety.
Please be respectful of the landowners. Climbing is a privilege so please treat it as such. Please do not block oil wells or other
machinery when parking. Please be aware of all turnarounds and do not block them with your vehicle. Please respect all red
tagged projects as well as any routes labeled as projects in this guide. If you want to toprope, please do so through the use of
quickdraws and not the links of chain anchors.
Changes
The information presented in this guide has been exported from an online guidebook located at www.redriverclimbing.com. If you find any
information that is incorrect and wish to update it, please locate the route in the online guidebook and post a comment. The webmaster will be
sure that the change you post, if accurate, will be present in the next version of this guide.
Thanks
If it weren't for everyone at www.redriverclimbing.com, this guide would not be possible. Special thanks to Jack Schmidt and Kathryn Lybarger
who put in many hours with their amazing programming skills, John Bronaugh for allowing the use of his guidebook Red River Climbs, 2nd
Edition, as a main source of information for many of the routes, and also to Sandy Davies, Michelle Artsay, Yasmeen Fowler, Bart Bledsoe,
Thomas Donalek and Paul McKenzie for special contributions to the guide. Most of all, thanks to all of the people who spend their time putting
up beautiful lines on the sandstone cliffs of Kentucky. Thanks to them, the best sandstone climbing in the country is right here.
-Ray Ellington, www.redriverclimbing.com
Updated: 7/6/2004
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Updated: 7/6/2004
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Torrent Falls
1. Hmmm * 5.2 Trad
When you reach the base of the 5.11 Wall, look for the rightmost bolted route on the wall. This route ascends the
wide crack to the right of the bolted route.
First Ascent:Joe Finney
0 bolts, 50 feet, Rap from tree, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
2. Cordelia * 5.8 Sport
This is the overbolted slab route to the right of Dream of a Bee
First Ascent:Unknown
0 bolts, 0 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown
3. Dream Of A Bee 5.8 Sport
This is the route just to the right of Wadcutter
First Ascent:Unknown
0 bolts, 0 feet, Cold shuts, Slab, Stays dry in: Unknown
4. Wadcutter ** 5.9+ Sport
This is the first bolted route on the right when you reach the base of the 5.11 Wall from the top of the stairs. It
begins just left of a 10-foot high overhang.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Light rain
5. Bandolier ** 5.11a Sport
This bolted line begins just to the left of Wadcutter. Climb pumpy holds to a flake at the finish.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour
6. Centerfire *** 5.11c Sport
This is the bolted line 10 feet left of Bandolier. Boulder through a initial section to a stance. Continue up through
pockets and crimps.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
8 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour
7. Receiver *** 5.11b Sport
This route begins 10 feet left of Centerfire. Climb pockets and crimpers to anchors.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
8 bolts, 65 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour
8. Recoil *** 5.11d Sport
This route begins 5 feet left of Receiver. Climb a small dihedral of sorts to an overhanging section.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
5 bolts, 55 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour
Updated: 7/6/2004
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Torrent Falls
9. Racer X *** 5.12d Sport
This route begins 100 feet left and around the corner from Recoil. This wall is reffered to as the "5.12 Wall". This
route is the first one on the right side of the 5.12 Wall. Begin by climbing through a low steep section near the left
side of a 20-foot tall overhang. Continue up the face on small edges to a big move towards the top then shift right
to the anchors.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
8 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour
10. Steelworker *** 5.12c Sport
This route begins just to the left of Racer X in a low overhanging section. Pull the low overhang then climb
moderate holds up to a couple of boulder problems. Power through the boulder problems the climb easier ground to
the anchors.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
8 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour
11. Bare Metal Teen *** 5.12a Sport
This route is located just left of Steelworker. Climb pockets and crimps to some anchors in a large dish.
Sometimes called the hardest 5.12a in the Red.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
8 bolts, 80 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour
12. Big Money Grip ** 5.12b Sport
This route begins by climbing the dihedral on the left side of the 5.12 Wall to a high first bolt. Continue up through
pockets and crimps to a slabby section then fire more face to the anchors.
First Ascent:Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll
7 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Crimpy, Stays dry in: Downpour
13. Burcham's Folly * 5.8 Trad
This route ascends the left-leaning crack behind the hemlock to the left of Big Money Grip.
First Ascent:John Burcham
0 bolts, 100 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
14. Neither 5.11a Trad
about 20 feet left of "Burcham's Folly" is this left facing, overhanging dihedral. Climb through 25 feet of
questionable rock to the clean dihedral above where the rock improves. Layback and stem up the dihedral and
lower from a set of chain anchors.
First Ascent:Unknown
0 bolts, 60 feet, Chain Anchor, Layback, stem, Stays dry in: Usually stays dry
15. Hydro Shock 5.12c Sport
Route around the corner from Big Money
Grip with no anchors. Route was never completed so it just kind of stops with no anchors.
First Ascent:Unknown
9 bolts, 70 feet, , Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
Updated: 7/6/2004
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Torrent Falls
16. Torrential * 5.12c Sport
This is the bolted line that begins by moving through a series of overhangs at the beginning and more toward the
top. Look for a fixed extended draw. This is probably where you will bail due to choss or wet rock.
First Ascent:Bruce Adams, Dave Scott
0 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
17. Into The Mystic ** 5.12+ Sport
This is the steep bolted line to the left of Torrential with fixed chain draws.
First Ascent:Greg Martin
0 bolts, 85 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Downpour
18. Paranoia *** 5.13b Sport
This route begins near the black tipped boulder about 10 feet left of the uncompleted project Hydro Shock. Climb
the steep, thin face up and through a roof to some anchors. May have fixed draws.
First Ascent:Dave Hume
12 bolts, 90 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Downpour
19. It's Alive ** 5.10d Sport
Walk way left from Paranoia and past a huge ampitheater to a wall with some bolted lines. This is the first line
encountered and shares a start with Reanimator. Begin with or without some cheater stones to grab the first jugs
under the low roof. Pull the roof, traverse out left to gain a stance, and then move right to follow the line of bolts to
some anchors.
First Ascent:Terry Kindred
0 bolts, 55 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour
20. Reanimator *** 5.10b Sport
This route begins the same as It's Alive of but instead of angling right, move straight up the face on some pockets
and crimps.
First Ascent:Terry Kindred
0 bolts, 55 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour
21. Rest Assured ** 5.10a Sport
This is the next bolted line left of Reanimator.
First Ascent:Terry Kindred
0 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Downpour
22. Family Value * 5.10d Sport
This is the bolted line just left of Rest Assured and shares the same start.
First Ascent:Terry Kindred
0 bolts, 55 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Light rain
23. Tourist Trap ** 5.9 Sport
This route ascends the arete left of Family Value.
First Ascent:Terry Kindred
0 bolts, 0 feet, Ring anchors, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
Updated: 7/6/2004
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Torrent Falls
24. Smoke Screen * 5.9 Trad
This route ascends the steep crack system left of Tourist Trap to the top.
First Ascent:Dave Veldhaus
0 bolts, 90 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
25. Impossible Choss 5.11 Sport
This bolted line lies just to the right of Windy Corner.
First Ascent:Unknown
0 bolts, 0 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
26. Windy Corner (to topout) *** 5.11bR Trad
After you reach the first set of anchors, belay or continue up the thin crack then move left on face holds to a ledge.
Continue up a short, unprotected face to the top.
First Ascent:Tom Souders
0 bolts, 100 feet, Unknown, Hands, Stays dry in: Light rain
27. Windy Corner (to anchors) *** 5.11b Trad
This is the obvious, overhanging handcrack around the corner and left from Smoke Screen. Climb the dihedral to a
roof about 15 feet up. Pull the roof and continue up the overhanging handcrack to a ledge with some anchors.
Since most people only send this route to the first set of anchors, we (the admins) have decided to recognize the
difference. For those of you who have sent the whole thing, please tick the other version. -Yasmeen
First Ascent:Tom Souders
0 bolts, 70 feet, Cold shuts, Hands, Stays dry in: Light rain
28. Us and Them ** 5.12a Sport
From the top of the stairs, take the trail to the right for about 300 feet to a ledge atop a flat bolder. This is the first
bolted line encountered on the ledge.
First Ascent:Greg Martin, Gregg Purnell
0 bolts, 70 feet, Unknown, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
29. Del Boy ** 5.11b Sport
This route is located just right of Spoonman and is marked by a small roof about 15 feet up. Climb the steep face to
the roof, pull the roof, then wander through interesting moves to another roof. Sidestep the roof the finish on a
steep face.
First Ascent:Jeff Moll, Porter Jarrard
6 bolts, 75 feet, Cold shuts, Slopey, Stays dry in: Light rain
30. Pocket Pussy ** 5.10d Sport
This is the left-angling bolted line 20 feet right of Del Boy. Climb the steep face then step out left to a small ledge.
Continue up through more vertical terrain to the anchors.
First Ascent:Unknown
6 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Usually stays dry
Updated: 7/6/2004
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Torrent Falls
31. Sex Show ** 5.11d Sport
This route ascends the face just left of the arete to the right of Pocket Pussy. Climb the arete then move left onto the
face when the bolts tell you to. Continue up through some bouldery moves to a long move for the finish.
First Ascent:Jeff Moll, Porter Jarrard
5 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown
32. Seek the Truth ** 5.11d Sport
This steep route begins on the obvious arete on the "patio". Climb the arete then move right a bit to take on the
steepness. Climb through steep moves with heel-hooks and the occasional long reach.
First Ascent:Jeff Moll, Porter Jarrard
4 bolts, 50 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Light rain
33. Sport for Brains ** 5.11d Sport
Step about 10 feet right from Seek the Truth to locate this incredibly steep route. Climb somewhat easy moves up
to the high first bolt then continue up through the steep face to a decent rest on a small ledge. Climb a few more
feet to clip the anchors.
First Ascent:Steve Grossman
6 bolts, 60 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Usually stays dry
34. Ode To Poopie Head * 5.11b Sport
Walk to the right of Sport For Brains, past a wide crack, to the first route on a short wall. Climb through small
pockets and feet to slightly larger holds. Climb to the roof, mantle over and clip the anchors.
First Ascent:Steve Grossman
4 bolts, 40 feet, Cold shuts, Bouldery, Stays dry in: Unknown
35. Poopie Head ** 5.10b Sport
This is the next line just right of Ode To Poopie Head.
First Ascent:Neal Strickland, Chris Snyder
4 bolts, 40 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown
36. Stool Sample ** 5.10a Sport
This is the next bolted line right of Poopie Head.
First Ascent:Tony Reynaldo
4 bolts, 40 feet, Cold shuts, Unknown, Stays dry in: Unknown
37. Rectal Exorcism ** 5.11a Sport
This route begins on a short slab to an overhang just right of Stool Sample.
First Ascent:Tony Reynaldo
5 bolts, 45 feet, Cold shuts, Pockets, Stays dry in: Unknown
38. G'sUs ** 5.11c Sport
Walk to the right of Rectal Exorcism, past a waterfall and up a steep section of the trail with a bunch of boulders.
Near a big boulder are a few lines. This is the leftmost bolted line.
First Ascent:Greg Martin, Gregg Purnell
0 bolts, 80 feet, Chain Anchor, Slopey, Stays dry in: Unknown
Updated: 7/6/2004
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Torrent Falls
39. Onaconaronni ** 5.11d Sport
Walk to the right of Rectal Exorcism, past a waterfall and up a steep section of the trail with a bunch of boulders.
Near a big boulder are a couple of bolted lines. Climb through the overhang and move up a vertical rib for a few
bolts. Continue on easier face to the top.
First Ascent:Greg Purnell
8 bolts, 65 feet, Chain Anchor, Slopey, Stays dry in: Does not stay dry
40. Who'sier Buddies ** 5.12a Sport
This is the next bolted line right of Onaconaronnyi.
First Ascent:Greg Purnell, Greg Martin,Tim Powers
7 bolts, 65 feet, Cold shuts, Slopey, Stays dry in: Unknown
Updated: 7/6/2004
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