Hair GURU
special report
ARE YOU AT RISK?
If any of the following statements apply to you, you may
• You have a visibly receding or thinning hairline.
be suffering from traction alopecia or you may be at risk
• There are little bumps and redness around your hairline,
of developing the condition In the future:
• Hair at your temples fails to reach a normal length and is
• You suffer from excessive pain caused by braiding,
abnormally fragile.
locking or weaving, even days after styling, and
• Braids or locks are breaking off at the hairline.
sometimes it’s so severe that you need painkillers.
• You constantly braid, lock or weave your hair without
• Your scalp feels tight when wearing a ponytail.
periods in between when your hair has a chance to rest.
HOW TO STOP THE HAIR LOSS
Salon and home styling often involve overmanipulation of hair.
Care must be taken to be gentle to your hair, as some styling
methods can damage your scalp and result in irreversible
hair loss. According to Sandra Zeca, owner of Calista Hair
in Pretoria East: “The most important thing you can do to
• Nutritional supplements like zinc, biotin, fish oil and
B vitamins encourage healthy hair growth.
• Make peace with your hair and yourself. You’re not
your hair!
For an appointment at Calista Hair, tel: 083 625 4700.
prevent traction alopecia is to avoid stress to the hair and the
follicles. You need to be confident enough to tell your stylist
when your hair’s being pulled too tightly.” After all, it’s you
who’ll be dealing with the pain, as well as the potential anxiety
and expense of hair loss, so speak up.
Zeca also offers the following advice for reclaiming
your hairline:
BY Ryno mulder
MAKING HAIRLINES
Your hair’s your
crowning glory, so a
damaged hairline can
be one of the most
emotionally devastating issues many of us
deal with. Here’s some
advice to help you
beat the hairline blues
I
• It’s important to understand that weaving itself isn’t the
problem. It’s the tight braiding of your natural hair
underneath the weave, used as tracks, that causes the
stylist because you really do get what you pay for.
• Beyond cornrows and tight ponies, other types of physical
photographed with bald patches ascribed
trauma such as excessive brushing, combing, intensive
face – especially your forehead and
to traction alopecia, but the problem’s
massaging compounded by chemical trauma from relaxers
temples – looking patchy and sparse?
experienced even by girls in primary school
You could be suffering from traction
wearing overly tight plaits and ponytails.
According to hair loss research published
and hair colour also weaken the hairline.
• If your hairline’s been damaged, remove the source of
the hair trauma and let your scalp and roots recover. In
because of pulling”. It’s a form of gradual
in the British Journal of Dermatology, one-
other words, stop wearing braids, locks or weaves and find
hair loss in any area of stress on natural
third of black South African women have
an alternative style that’s more forgiving to your natural hair.
hair caused by tightly pulled hairstyles.
traction alopecia, as do one in seven
This happens as repeated pulling on
children. It can take years to become
looking – not like the wigs your mama wore back in the
your hair constantly inflames the follicles,
noticeable, but even once it does, many
old days! Lace wigs have a hairline that looks like a perfectly
causing hair to fall out from the roots and
of us still persist in our damaging styling
healthy and natural one. It can be parted in any direction
new hair growth to eventually shut down
choices for the sake of vanity.
(unlike regular wigs or weaves), plus you can swim, gym or
completely. This hair loss is initially
• Consider an Afro or a lace wig that’s absolutely natural-
As with any health matter, prevention
wear updo’s without fear of your hairpiece falling off. There
most apparent as a banded area around
is better than cure. However, if your hair
are lace wig options that don’t require glue or tape and can
your face, as this is where the tension’s
loss is at an advanced stage, there are
be slipped over your natural hair using a drawstring and
most concentrated.
other options to support new hair growth,
The condition can strike everyone.
minimise the appearance of a weak
snap-clip system.
• While you’re wearing a less damaging hairstyle, new hair
Celebrities like Naomi Campbell, Tyra
hairline or have hair restoration done, in
can grow on your scalp, but it could take years for your hair
Banks and Serena Williams have been
severe cases.
follicles to reach a new growth phase.
54 Shimmer September-october 2012
– Rasheed Patel, hair loss
product developer
trouble. Ensure that you use a reputable and experienced
s the hair around the perimeter of your
alopecia, which means “hair loss
“Traction alopecia
doesn’t get better by
chance – it gets better
by change.”
WIN A LACE
TH
WIG WOR
R3 800!
One lucky reader
can enjoy an instant hairline
makeover by winning an En Vogue
lace wig. SMS the word HAIRLINE,
together with your full name and
contact details, to 34428 before
15 October 2012. For further
information on En Vogue lace
wigs, contact Mamello
Mofokeng on tel:
078 006 0057.
September-october
May-June 2012 www.shimmer.com
2012 Shimmer 00
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special report
what you say
OUR EXPERTS SAY…
We asked: Have you rocked a style that resulted in thinning
Heidi Flax, Education and Product
edges and how did this affect your self-image?
Development Manager, SoftSheen.Carson SA
supplement that rejuvenates and repairs damaged hair
“Extensions that are heavy and even natural
follicles. Trichotin Hair Regenesis has been designed to
dreadlocks can become too heavy for the
assist in treating alopecia, is registered with the South
roots to support, causing too much tension
African Medicines Control Council and is the treatment of
“My vanishing hairline made me cut my hair. No treatment
or product helped, so I had to chop it off. But now I like
“I can’t wear anything except weaves to hide the
disaster that was caused by weaves in the first place!” –
Mmabatho, Nelspruit
“My self-esteem went down dramatically and often I
don’t feel like going out to any social events because of
my receding hairline. I’ve yet to find something that will
restore it. I’ve tried many products and I don’t know what
to use any more!” – Ntombi, Facebook
“You’d need a whole page in the magazine just for my
hairline story!” – Abigail, Cape Town
and resulting in hair loss. Only an absence of pulling
Dr Noori Moti-Joosub, dermatologist at
that it’s comfortable to wear from the start. A healthy,
Laserderm in Dunkeld, Johannesburg
nurtured and nourished scalp will promote the growth of
“Traction alopecia is a non-scarring form
healthy hair.”
of hair loss, which means if a change in
hairstyling’s undertaken, the condition can
Brian Warfield, stylist
be reversed. One-third of South African women are dealing
“People tend to get pulled hairstyles and keep
with this condition and it’s on the increase in children and
them for too long, putting constant stress on
young adults. An often overlooked factor is the use of
their hairline. After all, these styles are easy to
chemical straighteners and hair products involved in the
maintain and they don’t have to spend a lot
straightening process.
of time on their hair. Consequently, the incidence of traction
“I have very thin hair and I’ve self-diagnosed it as ‘no-
irreparable damage. The most effective solution to traction
hairline disease’. Even though I apply hair food, keep my
alopecia is to stop the habits that are causing it. If you’re
hair natural and don’t wear weaves, I still suffer from this
going to braid and weave, then you must allow more time
problem. I’m even scared to plait my hair straight back in
between taking them out and putting them back in so that
case it gets worse.” – Regemoditso, Boston
the hairline can strengthen itself. If your hair’s broken, but
always wearing a hat.” – Itumeleng, Vereeniging
“We experience problems from braids and weaves, yet we
continue to braid and weave to hide our damaged hairline,
making things even worse! By simply discontinuing to
wear tight weaves and braids, your hairline will often grow
back. I had weaves and braids for four years straight and
my hairline suffered. I grew it back using castor oil applied
to the scalp twice a week.” – Tendayi, Facebook
you’re not bald, products like Nioxin can be purchased over
the counter to stimulate growth. Vitamins for hair and nails
are also helpful, as they nourish the blood that feeds the hair,
making it stronger.
“Not everyone can have long hair, but everyone can have
healthy hair. People need to commit to caring for their hair
just as they care for their health.”
• For an appointment with Brian Warfield, tel: 076 408 7537.
Rasheed Patel, Assistant Product Developer:
Fusion Laboratories
“I have dreadlocks and even though it’s meant to be
“Statistics claim that 60% of hair loss sufferers
a happy-go-lucky, healthy and natural option, some
would rather have more hair than friends and
hairdressers style my dreads just as tightly as when I had
almost half of them would spend their life
braids. I can’t sleep for the next four days and my hair falls
savings to regain a full head of hair. However, early detection
out!” – Kgomotso, Witwatersrand
is the first line of defence. Even if you notice just slight
thinning, it’s advisable to consult a trichologist (a
“I have six-year-old dreadlocks and I’ve suddenly started
dermatologist specialising in hair and scalp problems) to
losing my hairline as a result.” – Karen, Facebook
ensure that the type of hair loss detected has been identified
“I’ve just started locking, after wearing my hair natural
for more than a year. The hairdressers style the locks so
tightly that I can’t sleep for the next five days. I’ve moved
from one stylist to another without success. Ethnic salons
really aren’t educated about hair.” – Thuso, KwaZulu-Natal
56 Shimmer September-october 2012
choice at hair loss clinics in SA.”
having your hair done, it isn’t being pulled too tightly and
alopecia is very high and many women suffer potentially
“My hairline needs help! I don’t like to be confined to
S
STAR BUY
(traction) can truly remedy this. Ensure that while you’re
correctly. An accurate diagnosis is key to successful
treatment. If traction alopecia has been confirmed, a style
change that puts less pressure on the hair roots should
immediately be implemented. If the hair loss is the result of
headbands or accessories, then softer, gentler ones made of
fabric should be used.
Nisim New Hair
BioFactors Shampoo,
R200 (selected
salons countrywide)
“The solution would be to stop putting tension on your
SOURCES: http://thirstyroots.com/traction-alopecia-symptoms.html, www.traction-alopecia.com, http://blackgirllonghair.
com/?tag=traction-alopecia, http://blackhairmedia.com/articles/overcoming-traction-alopecia-in-black-women-in-three-easy-ways,
http://www.belgraviacentre.com/blog/hair-loss-facts-figures-and-statistics/ . Galloimages/gettyimages.com.
my bald look.” – Pearl, Centurion
“It’s also crucial to start using a multi-nutrient hair
hair follicles by choosing a looser hairstyle and avoiding
harmful chemicals. If scarring presents, hair transplants may
be considered.”
Dr Catherine Davies, specialist at Hair
Restoration SA in Athol, Johannesburg
“Any hairstyle, whether natural or extensions,
that pulls your hair tightly can cause damage.
The worst and most common hair-weakening
style is tight braids on relaxed hair. Ideally, all pulled styles
should be removed and your hair should be clipped short.
The only FDA-approved medication for traction alopecia is
Trichotin Hair Regenesis
Multi-Nutrient, R345
for 30 tablets (selected
professional salons
countrywide)
Kimberly Grace
My Miracle Root Nutrition
Leave-in Treatment, R170
(www.thespashop.co.za)
Minoxidil 2%, which is available over the counter from most
pharmacies. It should be massaged twice daily into the
affected area when the hair’s dry. Patience is required for
the effects to be visible, as it may take up to six months for
new hair to grow. Other natural products such as the Nisim
herbal haircare range have also been shown to be effective.
“Traction alopecia may lead to permanent hair loss if it’s
undetected for a protracted period. In this case, medication
won’t help. A hair transplant would be a last resort, but it’s
costly and has varying degrees of success. Professional
stylists specialising in braids, cornrows, weaving and
chemical processing have a responsibility to warn their
clients about the risks of traction alopecia. If your hair loss
is occurring all over your head and involves eyebrows or
body hair, if there’s no history of tension due to braiding
or chemicals and there are other symptoms such as acne,
menstrual cycle change, fatigue, constipation and scalp or
skin abnormalities, you should see your doctor to rule out
other medical conditions.”
Natur Vital Hair
Loss Treatment,
R145, Dis-Chem
Nioxin Hair
System Kit No 5
for medium to
coarse hair, R525
(selected salons
countrywide)
September-october
May-June 2012 www.shimmer.com
2012 Shimmer 57
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