healing color TECHNICAL GUIDE Color Attachment Technology Keratin Healing System
healing color TECHNICAL GUIDE Color Attachment Technology | Keratin Healing System | Flower Shield Complex INTRODUCTION TO HEALING COLOR 3 HAIR STRUCTURE AND HAIRCOLOR 15 HEALING COLOR FORMULATION 21 FORMULATION FOR GRAY HAIR 35 FORMULATION FOR RADIANT REDS 43 FORMULATION FOR BLONDING 49 PREPARING HAIR FOR COLOR SERVICES 61 MIXING, APPLICATION AND PROCESSING 67 CORRECTIVE COLOR73 GLOSSARY81 table of CONTENTS Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com • Color Attachment Technology Keratin Healing System Flower Shield Complex • 3-in-1 Flexibility • L’ANZA Healing Color • Guidelines at a Glance Shades and Families Color Wheel Shade Chart introduction to HEALING COLOR Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Color Attachment Technology KERATIN HEALING SYSTEM Protein, moisture and minerals are vital to hair health. L’ANZA’s Keratin Healing System heals the hair by replacing all of these essential nutrients. The result is healthy hair with improved color attachment and even color results. Your color will be rich, vibrant and long-lasting! Keratin Healing System consists of: - Keratin Amino Acids - Meadowfoam Flower Seed Complex - Moisture Retain Complex Healing Actives have a double positive charge. Damage in the hair has a negative charge. Healing Actives are attracted directly to the damage sites, restoring hair health exactly where it’s needed. FLOWER SHIELD COMPLEX Haircolor fades as it is exposed to environmental aggressors. L’ANZA’s Flower Shield Complex uses natural anti-fade compounds from flowers to provide full-spectrum color protection. White represents the combination of all colors. The phyto-compounds found in Gardenia ensure complete protection over the entire color spectrum. CHLOROPHYLL, found in the Green Orchid, protects haircolor in the green range. FLAVONOIDS, found in Cornflower & Echinacea, protect haircolor in the blue to violet range. 4 5 CAROTENOIDS, found in Rose, Calendula & Hibiscus, protect haircolor in the yellow to red range. 3-in-1 Flexibility L’ANZA Healing Color offers a wide array of fabulous shades with five dedicated developers, offering unlimited flexibility and full-spectrum color protection for all Permanent, Demi Permanent and Demi Translucent formulas. Reliable, consistent results are created time after time. Hair is luxuriously shiny and true-to-level and tone, from new growth to the ends! Great Performance and Savings - All in One Tube of Color! PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh Tone • Gloss • Enhance 1:1 1:2 1: 1: 2: 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) = PERMANENT 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT L’ANZA Healing Color Healing Color Powder Decolorizer • 77 shades provide unlimited formulation creativity 62 classic shades 5 High Lift Blondes 4 Super Lift Blondes 6 Mix Tones • Powder Decolorizer is dust-free and easy to mix for smooth consistency and application. • Will achieve up to 7 levels of lift. • A hint of violet controls warmth at any stage of lift. • Contains Keratin Healing System to ensure hair integrity during and after process. • Can be formulated for both on-scalp and off-scalp applications. • Mix 1 part Powder Decolorizer and 2 parts Cream Developer. • Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex. • Ultra Natural Series provides unparalleled coverage for resistant gray hair in one step. • Color Concepts are fashion shades easily created using core shade formulations. Cream Developers • Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex. • 5 dedicated developers for all color services. Demi Cream Developer (1.75%) 10 Volume Cream Developer (3%) 20 Volume Cream Developer (6%) 30 Volume Cream Developer (9%) 40 Volume Cream Developer (12%) Translucent Color Catalyst • Makes 99.9% of the ammonia in Healing Color non-effective. • Not a developer. Must be used in conjunction with Demi Cream Developer. • Demi Translucent Color is created by mixing 1 part Healing Color with 1 part Translucent Color Catalyst and 2 parts Demi Cream Developer. • Demi Translucent Color can be used to tone, gloss or enhance. • Contains Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex. 6 7 Color-Cleansing Shampoo • Color-correction tool for performing a color cleanse to remove excess or undesired pigments from previouslycolored hair. • Specifically designed to be used with L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer and Cream Developers to remove artificial pigments. • Can be formulated in three strengths (mild, medium or strong), depending on the amount of color to be removed. Protective Barrier Cream • Provides exceptional skin and scalp protection against unwanted stains or irritation during color services. • Easy to apply and stays in place – won’t melt! • Easy to wash off. • Can also be used with Healing Texture Exothermic Perm. Haircolor Stain Remover • Effortlessly dissolves and removes haircolor stains from skin, clothing, salon surface and tools. • Gentle on skin, won’t cause irritation. • Pleasing signature fragrance. The first and only color that HEALS – SEALS – PROTECTS Through our exclusive Color Attachment Technology Guidelines at a Glance 3-in-1 Flexibility Steps to Successful Color Formulation PERMANENT Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray DEMI PERMANENT Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh 1:1 1: 2 DEMI TRANSLUCENT 1 Tone • Gloss • Enhance 1: 1: TC Select your Target Color (TC). What color are you trying to achieve? Be sure to assess the client’s hair and features first to determine the appropriate shade. Include skin tone, eye color, as well as the condition, texture and porosity of the hair. UT Determine the Undertone (UT) at the Target Color. Is it red, orange, yellow, etc.? When formulating, you will need to determine if you want to enhance, control, or maintain this Undertone. Please refer to the Undertone Chart for additional information. 2: 2 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) 1 Part Healing Color 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer 10 Volume Tone-on-tone 30 min Deposit Only 20 min Deposit Only Gloss 20 min 20 Volume 1-2 Levels of lift 35 min Fill 10 min Tone 10-20 min 30 Volume 2-3 Levels of lift 40 min 40 Volume 3-4 Levels of lift 50 min 3 NOTE: Be sure to mix Healing Color and Translucent Color Catalyst first, then add Demi Cream Developer. Determine the Natural Level or Existing Level of the hair using the Level Finder in the back of the L’ANZA Swatch Book. NL / EL • Natural Level (NL) – the level of natural hair that has not been previously tinted or lifted. • Existing Level (EL) – the level of previously-colored hair. Please note that hair often has a combination of Natural Level at the scalp, and Existing Level on the remainder of the hair shaft. Be sure to accurately assess the level at the scalp, mid-shaft and ends of the hair, as different color formulations may be required to achieve optimal results. Blonding 4 HIGH LIFT BLONDES SUPER LIFT BLONDES POWDER DECOLORIZER Blonding • Highlighting Maximum Lift and Control 1: 2 L/T Blonding • Highlighting 1: 2 Determine the Change in Level and/or Tone Level (L) – Are you going lighter or darker? How many levels? Or is the hair staying at the same level? Tone (T) – Is the tonal family the same? Or are you changing the tonality of the hair? 1: 2 Confirm the change in Level and Tone at the scalp, mid-shaft, and ends of 1 Part Healing Color (100 Series) 2 Parts Cream Developer (40 Volume) 40 Volume Up to 4 Levels of lift 50 min 1 Part Healing Color (200 Series) 2 Parts Cream Developer (40 Volume) 40 Volume Up to 5 Levels of lift 60 min 1 Part Powder Decolorizer 2 Parts Cream Developer (Demi, 10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) ON - SCALP Demi 10 Volume 20 Volume up to 60 min 8 9 5 % GRAY 6 OFF - SCALP Demi 10 Volume 20 Volume 30 Volume 40 Volume the hair to achieve the Target Color. Choose the appropriate Developer. up to 60 min F Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair (% Gray), using the Percentage Gray Finder. You will need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair. Formulate. When formulating to achieve your Target Color, select the appropriate shade to enhance or control the Undertone and change the Tone, the appropriate developer for the change in Level, then add the missing pigments for Gray coverage. Process for the full recommended time. Level & Undertone LEVEL DESCRIPTION Mix Tone Additions* Enhancement of Tone UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING NEUTRALIZING BASE ENHANCING BASE BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX LEVEL 34 Refinement of Warmth RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX 5 10 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet Gold 10 9 Light Blonde Yellow Violet Gold 9 up to 1 g 8 Medium Blonde Yellow - Orange Violet - Blue Gold - Copper 8 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue Copper 7 7 8 BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX LEVEL 3 4 X MIX 6 up to 3 g 10 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g 9 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g up to 3 g 8 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 7 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 6 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g 6 Light Brown Orange - Red Blue - Green Copper - Red 6 up to 3 g 5 Medium Brown Red - Orange Green - Blue Red - Copper 5 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 5 up to 1 g up to 3 g 4 Dark Brown Red Green Red 4 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 4 up to 1 g up to 3 g 3 Brown/Black Red - Brown Green Red 3 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 3 up to 3 g 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red 2 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 2 up to 3 g Black NONE NONE NONE 1 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 1 1 *Up to 25% of color formula, based on one application with 28 g Healing Color. Account for Gray Coverage When formulating for gray coverage, remember to add the missing pigments to the hair. This can be done by adding a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. • The Ultra Natural Series (NN). • The Natural Series (N). Other shade series such as Red (R), Gold (G) or Copper (C) can be added for warmer results. PERCENTAGE OF GRAY TARGET COLOR ADD BACK NATURAL PIGMENT AT SAME LEVEL AS TARGET COLOR* 25% 0 - 25% 90% Target Color (25 g) 10% Natural (3 g) 50% 25% - 50% 75% Target Color (21 g) 25% Natural (7 g) 75% 50% - 75% 50% Target Color (14 g) 50% Natural (14 g) 90% 75% - 100% 25% Target Color (3 g) 75% Natural (25 g) *Grams based on one application with a total of 28 g of Healing Color. SHADES and FAMILIES FAMILY BASE Balanced NATURAL N 100% Balanced ULTRA NATURAL NN 100% Balanced ASH A 60% Balanced, 40% Blue EXTRA ASH AX 60% Balanced, 40% Green BEIGE B BEIGE-COPPER BC GOLD G GOLD-COPPER GC COPPER-GOLD NATURAL COPPER COPPER ULTRA COPPER CG NC C CC ULTRA RED-COPPER RRC RED R ULTRA RED RR RED-VIOLET RV VIOLET V PEARL P MIX TONE Blue Green Yellow-Green 60% Balanced, 40% Yellow-Green Yellow-Green-Orange 60% Balanced, 30% Yellow-Green, 10% Orange Yellow 60% Balanced, 40% Yellow Balanced, natural-looking ash with extra control over undesired warmth. Green base controls stubborn red tones. True, natural beige without unwanted red or ash undertones. Ideal for classic blondes and delicate control against warmth. Excellent for gray blending. Rich beige with added copper tones. Beautiful alone or when added to the Natural Series to create warm naturals. Brilliant gold – perfectly balanced to deliver vibrant warmth when used alone, to impart rich golden tonal balance to any shade, or for extra warmth in gray coverage formulations. Yellow-Orange Provides rich golden tone with enhanced warmth from copper tones. Orange-Yellow Ideal to create naturally-occurring copper shades with rich, gold undertones. 60% Balanced, 30% Yellow, 10% Orange 60% Balanced, 30% Orange, 10% Yellow Balanced with Orange 90% Balanced, 10% Orange Balanced base with a hint of orange to create a rich natural copper. Orange Warm, shiny copper creates clear, radiant tones. Orange-Orange Ultra copper for the ultra effect – bold and deep. Red-Red-Orange Fiery red and orange tones with rich translucent depth and reflection. Use alone for maximum impact, or layer into brown shades for a fiery shine. 60% Balanced, 40% Orange 50% Balanced, 50% Orange 40% Balanced, 50% Red, 10% Orange Red 60% Balanced, 40% Red Red-Red 50% Balanced, 50% Red Red-Violet 60% Balanced, 30% Red, 10% Violet Violet 60% Balanced, 40% Violet Violet-Blue 60% Balanced, 30% Violet, 10% Blue Cool red adds depth and smoldering glow to brunettes. Beautiful and bold. Contains extra red pigments that intensify depth with ruby-like intensity. Red and violet merge to create velvety tones without warmth. Magnificently vibrant violet browns create burgundy hues in brunette hair. Pearls create mysteriously luminescent blonde hair. Violet-blue tones control warmth while adding a pearly luster. RECOMMENDED USE B Blue Enhances blue tones. Controls orange tones. Deepens ash tones. V Violet R Red X MIX X Green-Yellow COPPER MIX C Orange GOLD MIX G Yellow VIOLET MIX RED MIX LETTER Balanced RECOMMENDED USE Perfectly balanced to reflect naturally occurring tonal values for on-tone and on-level results. Use alone or add to color formulations for gray coverage or tonal balance. Formulated with increased pigment concentrations. Perfectly balanced for true-to-tone and on-level natural color results. Especially designed for resistant gray coverage in one step. Perfectly balanced to deliver natural ash results. Blue base consistently controls unwanted warmth and orange tones. BASE BLUE MIX 10 11 LETTER Enhances violet tones. Controls yellow tones and brassiness. Enhances red tones. Adds warmth. Controls red tones. Deepens ash tones. Reduces warmth. Enhances orange and copper tones. Adds warmth. Reduces ash tones. Enhances gold tones, adds warmth. Reduces violet tones. 5R R R 5R 5RRC 5A X 4AX 6AX 7AX 8AX X 200 AX COLOR WHEEL A 200 200P 200V SHADE CHART FAMILY Natural Ultra Natural Ash Extra Ash Beige Beige-Copper Gold Gold-Copper Copper-Gold LETTER N NN A AX B BC G GC CG Yellow-Green Yellow-GreenOrange Balanced BASE True-to-tone & on-level. 100% Balanced Balanced For resistant or compromised hair. On tone & level at 75% gray. 100% Balanced 200 Super Lift Blonde Adds gold tones while controlling unwanted warmth. 60% Balanced 40% Blue 60% Balanced 40% Green 60% Balanced 40% Yellow-Green 200A 200AX 100 10 Very Light Blonde 10N 10NN 10A 9N 9NN 9A 8N 8NN 8A 7N 7NN 6N 8 Medium Blonde 7 Dark Blonde 6 Light Brown 5 Medium Brown 4 Dark Brown 3 Brown/Black 1 Black Green Controls warmth and neutralizes red tones. 100 High Lift Blonde 9 Light Blonde 12 13 Blue Controls warmth and neutralizes orange tones. 100A Adds warmth while controlling red tones. 60% Balanced 30% Yellow-Green 10% Orange Yellow Adds warmth with golden tone. Adds warmth with gold & copper tones. Yellow-Orange Orange-Yellow 60% Balanced 40% Yellow 60% Balanced 30% Yellow 10% Orange 60% Balanced 30% Orange 10% Yellow Adds warmth with copper & gold tones. 100B 9B 9G 8AX 8B 8G 7A 7AX 7B 7G 7GC 7CG 6NN 6A 6AX 6B 6G 6GC 6CG 5N 5NN 5A 5AX 4N 4NN 4A 4AX 3N 1N 6BC 5G 4BC 5CG 4CG Natural Copper Copper Ultra Copper Ultra Red-Copper Red Ultra Red Red Violet Violet Pearl NC C CC RRC R RR RV V P Orange Orange Orange-Orange Red-Red-Orange Red Red-Red Red-Violet Violet Violet-Blue Enhances warmth in natural tones with copper. Adds warmth with copper tones. Adds warmth with intense copper tones. Adds warmth with intense red & copper tones. Adds rich, cool red tones. Adds warmth with intense red tones. Adds cool red & violet tones. Adds cool violet tones. Neutralizes gold tones. Enhances cool blonde tones. Neutralizes yellow & orange tones. 90% Balanced 10% Orange 60% Balanced 40% Orange 50% Balanced 50% Orange 40% Balanced 50% Red 10% Orange 60% Balanced 40% Red 50% Balanced 50% Red 60% Balanced 30% Red 10% Violet 60% Balanced 40% Violet 60% Balanced 30% Violet 10% Blue 200V 200P 100V 100P Mix Tones Enhances or controls tones. 10P 9P 8C 7NC 7C 8P 7CC G C 6RRC 6R 5RRC 5R 4RRC 4R X 5RR 4RV 5V R 4V V B • Hair Structure Understanding Hair Structure Melanin • How L’ANZA Oxidative Haircolor works Permanent Color Demi Permanent Color Demi Translucent Color • L’ANZA’s unique 3-in-1 Flexibility Permanent Color Demi Permanent Color Demi Translucent Color HAIR STRUCTURE and HAIRCOLOR Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Hair Structure UNDERSTANDING HAIR STRUCTURE Hair fiber is composed of 3 main layers – Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla. The Cuticle and Cortex are bound together by the Cuticle Cortex Membrane (CCM). Cortex The cortex is the main component of the hair responsible for its mechanical properties. • Contains Melanin. • Responsible for the elasticity of the hair. • One of the most important parts for hair coloration. Medulla The medulla can influence the overall sheen of the hair, but has no additional cosmetic effect. It may be absent from some hair. Cuticle Cortex Membrane (CCM) The membrane that surrounds all cuticle and cortex cells and connects them to one another. Cuticle A clear layer of flat, overlapping cells that protects the cortex. It mainly influences the look and feel of the hair. • Protects the inner cortex. • Healthy, closed cuticle reflects shine. • Damaged, open cuticle feels rough and appears dull. 16 17 MELANIN Melanin is the pigment found in the cortex of the hair. The proportion of melanin determines the variation of natural haircolor ranging from the lightest blonde to the deepest black. There are two types of Melanin. Varying concentrations of each melanin will result in all natural hair color. Eumelanin is the darker pigment and is responsible for brown and black hair colors. Dark brown hair will have • High levels of Eumelanin. • Low levels of Phaeomelanin. Phaeomelanin is the lighter pigment and is responsible for blonde and red hair colors. Blonde and copper hair will have • High levels of Phaeomelanin. • Low levels of Eumelanin. How L’ANZA Oxidative Haircolor Works L’ANZA uses one oxidative color molecule to create three different types of color. Oxidative Color Precursors The pigments in oxidative color start off as Precursors, or small undeveloped pigments. As they pass through the cuticle layers and enter the cortex, they interact with the oxidative ingredients to create the color change. Also known as non-direct pigments, oxidative color creates long-lasting, vibrant haircolor. PERMANENT COLOR 1:1 DEMI PERMANENT COLOR 1:2 When haircolor molecules are exposed to oxygen from a developer, they begin to oxidize and pass through the cuticle layer into the cortex. At the same time, the natural melanin may be lifted and undertone exposed. The artificial pigments then link together to form “color chains” locking them inside the hair strand. This final visual result is a combination of the light reflecting and refracting on the lifted natural melanin and the artificial pigments. L’ANZA Healing Color utilizes the same permanent color molecule for Demi Permanent color services. When Healing Color is mixed with Demi Cream Developer, the color formula will penetrate slightly into the cortex layer and form the same “color chains” as permanent color, creating a longer lasting color, better coverage, more shine and healthier hair. L’ANZA Healing Color also contains our exclusive Color Attachment Technology (Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex), which contribute to better color uptake, more durable color, and healthier hair. The volume of developer helps to determine how deeply into the cortex the color penetrates. Since Healing Color uses a very low percentage of ammonia in the shades, the cuticle layer is less affected during the color service, promoting the shine of the hair. A Permanent Color formula is mixed 1 part Healing Color to 1 part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume). A Demi Permanent Color formula is mixed 1 part Healing Color to 2 parts Demi Cream Developer. DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR 1:1:2 A Demi Translucent Color formula can be used in a variety of ways – for toning, glossing and adding shine and brilliance to the hair. If the hair is very porous or in poor condition, a Demi Translucent Color formula is also recommended. The purpose of the Translucent Color Catalyst is to reduce the activity of the ammonia and make it 99.9% non-effective. The result is a color mixture that behaves like an acid color on the hair, creating a sheer gloss for the hair with increased shine, manageability and color longevity. A Demi Translucent Color formula is mixed 1 part Healing Color to 1 part Translucent Color Catalyst, then with 2 parts Demi Cream Developer. 18 19 PRECURSORS Every tube of L’ANZA Healing Color contains colorless Precursors, along with our Keratin Healing System, Flower Shield Complex, and other ingredients that form the cream base. L’ANZA’s Unique 3-in-1 Flexibility 1. PERMANENT COLOR • Oxidizes in the cortex and will alter the natural melanin. • May also be used for darkening the hair and is recommended for gray coverage. • A line of demarcation will result depending on the client’s natural growth cycle. • Any lifting or lightening procedure is considered permanent haircolor. • Mixed 1:1 with Cream Developer. 2. DEMI PERMANENT COLOR • Penetrates the cuticle layer and deposits color into the cuticle and partially into the cortex. • Usually does not disturb the natural melanin, as the developer and ammonia levels are low. • Generally lasts from 4 to 6 weeks. • Mixed 1:2 with Demi Cream Developer. 3. DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR • Penetrates cuticle slightly and does not disturb the natural melanin in the hair. • Demi Translucent Color Catalyst encapsulates and inactivates 99.9% of the ammonia. • Mixed 1:1:2 with Translucent Color Catalyst and Demi Cream Developer. • Steps to Successful Color Formulation • Step 1 – Choosing Your Target Color Tone and Base Color Consider the Client’s Features Consider the Hair Texture and Density Consider Hair Condition and Porosity • Step 2 – Determine the Undertone • Step 3 – Determine Natural and Existing Level At Scalp At Mid-Shaft At Ends • Step 4 – Change in Level and Tone • Step 5 – Verify the Percentage of Gray Account for Gray Coverage • Step 6 – Formulate L’ANZA Permanent Color Formulation L’ANZA Demi Permanent Color Formulation L’ANZA Demi Translucent Color Formulation Color Results healing color FORMULATION Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Steps to Successful Color Formulation Below is an overview of the steps to successful color formulation. Each step is explained in more detail in this chapter. 1 TC 2 UT 3 NL / EL Select your Target Color (TC). What color are you trying to achieve? Be sure to assess the client’s hair and features to determine the appropriate shade. Include skin tone, eye color, as well as the condition, texture and porosity of the hair. Determine the Undertone (UT) at the Target Color. Is it red, orange, yellow, etc.? When formulating, you will need to determine if you want to enhance, control, or maintain this Undertone. Please refer to the Undertone Chart for additional information. Determine the Natural Level or Existing Level of the hair using the Level Finder in the back of the L’ANZA Swatch Book. • Natural Level (NL) – the level of natural hair that has not been previously tinted or lifted. • Existing Level (EL) – the level of previously-colored hair. Please note that hair often has a combination of Natural Level at the scalp, and Existing Level on the remainder of the hair shaft. Be sure to accurately assess the level at the scalp, mid-shaft and ends of the hair, as different color formulations may be required to achieve optimal results. 4 L/T Determine the Change in Level and/or Tone Level (L) – Are you going lighter or darker? How many levels? Or is the hair staying at the same level? Tone (T) – Is the tonal family the same? Or are you changing the tonality of the hair? Confirm the change in Level and Tone at the scalp, mid-shaft, and ends of the hair to achieve the Target Color. 5 % GRAY 6 F 22 23 Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair (% Gray), using the Percentage Gray Finder. You will need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair. Formulate. When formulating to achieve your Target Color, select the appropriate shade to enhance or control the Undertone and change the Tone, the appropriate developer for the change in Level, then add the missing pigments for Gray coverage. Process for the full recommended time. STEP 1 – Choosing Your Target Color To select your Target Color (TC), determine what color(s) you are trying to achieve. Be sure to assess the client’s hair and features first to determine the appropriate shade. Include skin tone, eye color, as well as the condition, texture and porosity of the hair. TONE AND BASE COLOR First, consider the tone you want to see in the Target Color results. Tone is the warmth or coolness of a color. • Warm tones reflect light and appear lighter. • Cool tones absorb light and appear darker. The dominant base tone in any haircolor mixture will give a shade its overall characteristic. CONSIDER THE CLIENT’S FEATURES In haircutting, you need to consider a client’s facial features, and determine which you would like to accentuate and which you would like to diminish. The same principles apply to color. Color can make hair look thicker or finer, more or less dense, solid or broken textured, shiny or duller. Color can also influence the client’s complexion, making it look less sallow, ruddy or flushed. The Final Decision It’s important to consider the client’s features, skin tone, and hair condition when selecting your Target Color... However, the final decision is often influence by regional trends, fashion and client preference! CONSIDER THE HAIR CONDITION AND POROSITY Condition and Porosity are critical when considering your formula and application approach. • Has hair been previously colored? • Has hair been permed or relaxed? • Has hair been treated with a Keratin Straightening Service? • What is the overall condition of the hair? Is it healthy or compromised? REMEMBER, L’ANZA Healing Color is a flexible 3-in-1 system, so you can use one shade to formulate Permanent, Demi Permanent, and Demi Translucent Color for new growth and the same shade to formulate for Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color for the mid-shaft and ends. POROUS NON- POROUS • Open cuticle layer • Increased absorption • Color fades more easily • Uneven color attachment • Closed, tight cuticle layer • Resistant to color products • Results appear lighter than the Target Color • Does not lighten to Target Color easily RECOMMENDATION • Use Trauma Treatment before service or add it to the color formula. • Use the Ultimate Treatment before service. • Fill or pre-pigment with Demi Permanent Color formula first. • Use Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula. RECOMMENDATION • Use a Permanent Color forumla. • Adjust mixing ratio to 2 parts Healing Color to 1 part Cream Developer. • Use the Ultra Natural Series (NN) instead of the Natural Series (N) for gray coverage. • Fill or pre-pigment the hair when going darker. • Use a higher Volume of L’ANZA Cream Developer. CONSIDER THE HAIR TEXTURE AND DENSITY The texture and density of the hair affects color depth and tone, and how the hair will respond to a color service. • Hair Texture – fine, coarse? • Hair Density – thick, medium, sparse? 24 25 STEP 2 – Determine the Undertone Determine the Undertone (UT) at the Target Color. Is it red, orange, yellow, etc.? When formulating, you will need to determine if you want to enhance, control or maintain this Undertone. Please refer to the Undertone Chart for additional information. When lifting, Undertones are always revealed, and contribute significantly to the final color result. The number of levels you lift will determine the shade you will choose and the volume of Cream Developer. It is important that the Natural and Existing Levels are carefully determined in the next step. Level & Undertones LEVEL DESCRIPTIONS UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING NEUTRALIZING BASE ENHANCING BASE 10 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet Gold 9 Light Blonde Yellow Violet Gold 8 Medium Blonde Yellow - Orange Violet - Blue Gold - Copper 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue Copper 6 Light Brown Orange - Red Blue - Green Copper - Red 5 Medium Brown Red - Orange Green - Blue Red - Copper 4 Dark Brown Red Green Red 3 Brown/Black Red - Brown Green Red 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red 1 Black NONE NONE NONE Consider the Undertone at both your NL/EL and Target Color When going darker more than 3 levels, be sure to consider the Undertone at both the Natural/Existing Level and the Target Color. This will help you determine which Undertones you need to replace, which will affect your shade selection. STEP 3 – Determine Natural and Existing Level Determine the Natural Level or Existing Level of the hair using the Natural Level Finder in the back of the L’ANZA Swatch Book. • Natural Level (NL) – the level of natural hair that has not been previously tinted or lifted. • Existing Level (EL) – the level of previously-colored hair. Hair often has a combination of Natural Level at the scalp, and Existing Level on the remainder of the hair shaft. Be sure to accurately assess the level at the scalp, mid-shaft and ends of the hair, as different color formulations may be required to achieve optimal results. AT SCALP Can you see the natural level or is it previously colored? Be very careful to seek out the true natural level, especially when lightening. AT MID-SHAFT This section requires care and consideration in formulation. Unless you are lifting, a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula may be your best option. AT ENDS Porosity and damage from aging, thermal tools and environmental aggressors can create genuine problems for the ends. Use Trauma Treatment or Magic Bullet to protect the ends prior to color application and promote even color attachment. If ends are darker due to excess deposit from prior color services, consider performing a color cleanse or use a Demi Translucent formula to refresh. Using the Natural Level Finder • Hold the Natural Level Finder so that the numbers are not facing upward. • Select 2 to 3 swatches that are close to the level of the hair. Remember that warm hair tones may appear lighter and cool tones darker, so it’s important to evaluate the actual Level. • Using your fingers, spread the fibers on the swatch and blend into the hair to make the best evaluation. • When you have decided upon the best match, flip the tab over to view the level. 26 27 STEP 4 – Change in Level and Tone Determine the Change in Level and/or Tone. Level (L) Tone (T) Are you going lighter or darker? How many levels? Or is the hair staying at the same level? Is the tonal family the same? Or are you changing the tonality of the hair? Confirm the change in Level and Tone at the scalp, mid-shaft, and ends of the hair to achieve the Target Color. This step will help you choose the appropriate Cream Developer for each shade and section of the hair. TONE Consider the Undertone As you lift to a lighter level, you will also uncover warmth. Please refer to the Undertone Chart. Undertones when Decolorizing If you are decolorizing, remember to consider the undertone exposed during the 7 stages of lift. Pale Yellow LEVEL Yellow Gold Red-Orange Red Brown Black STEP 5 – Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair Verify the Percentage of Gray Hair (% Gray), using the Percentage Gray Finder in the back of the Swatch Book. You will need this information to adjust your formula to account for the missing pigment in gray hair. For additional information, refer to the chapter on formulation for gray hair. ACCOUNT FOR GRAY COVERAGE When formulating for gray coverage, remember to add the missing pigments to the hair. This can be done by adding a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. • The Ultra Natural Series (NN). • The Natural Series (N). Other shade series such as Red (R), Gold (G) or Copper (C) can be added for warmer results. PERCENTAGE OF GRAY TARGET COLOR ADD BACK NATURAL PIGMENT AT SAME LEVEL AS TARGET COLOR* 25% 0 - 25% 90% Target Color (25 g) 10% Natural (3 g) 50% 25% - 50% 75% Target Color (21 g) 25% Natural (7 g) 75% 50% - 75% 50% Target Color (14 g) 50% Natural (14 g) 90% 75% - 100% 25% Target Color (3 g) 75% Natural (25 g) *Grams based on one application with a total of 28 g of Healing Color. 28 29 STEP 6 – Formulate When formulating, choose your shade selection to achieve your Target Color, accounting for Gray coverage/coloring, increasing or decreasing the Level, and enhancing or controlling your Undertone. Selecting the appropriate Cream Developer determines how deeply into the cortex the color penetrates and oxidation occurs. Choose your L’ANZA Cream Developer to achieve the appropriate formula for your Target Color. Retouch Application When performing a retouch, you can use a Permanent Color on the new growth, and a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula to refresh the ends! L’ANZA PERMANENT COLOR FORMULATION Create a Permanent Color formula by mixing Healing Color 1:1 with 10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume Cream Developer. • Lighten • Darken • Tone-on-Tone • Cover Gray PERMANENT Select the appropriate developer based on the amount of lift you would like to achieve. Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray 1:1 10 Volume (3%) 20 Volume (6%) Tone-on-Tone 1-2 Levels of Lift 30 Volume (9%) 2-3 Levels of Lift 40 Volume (12%) 3-4 Levels of Lift 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) 30 min May cover gray for non-resistant hair types. 30 31 35 min Also recommended for gray coverage. 40 min Also recommended for coverage of resistant gray hair. 50 min Also recommended for use with High Lift and Super Lift Blondes with a 1:2 mixing ratio. A Permanent Color formula will deposit color all the way into the cortex of the hair and will affect the natural melanin. Retouch Application L’ANZA DEMI PERMANENT COLOR FORMULATION Create a Demi Permanent Color formula by mixing Healing Color 1:2 with Demi Cream Developer. • • • • • Deposit Only Blend Gray Refresh Pre-Pigment gray hair Fill over-processed or lightened hair When performing a retouch, you can use a Permanent Color on the new growth, and a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula to refresh the ends! DEMI PERMANENT Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh Demi Permanent Color can be used to eliminate or reduce the line of demarcation as hair grows out. 1:2 1 Part Healing Color Demi Cream Developer Approximately 6 Volume (1.75%) Deposit Only 20 min 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer Fill 10 min May also be used with the Ultra Natural Series for gray coverage on damaged or compromised hair. Demi Permanent Color will deposit color in the cuticle and outer cortex only. It will not disturb the natural melanin in the hair. Mix Properly Be sure to mix Healing Color with the Translucent Color Catalyst first, and then add the Demi Cream Developer. L’ANZA DEMI TRANSLUCENT COLOR FORMULATION Create a Demi Translucent Color formula by mixing Healing Color in a two-step process: 1) Combine Healing Color 1:1 with Translucent Color Catalyst to reduce the activity of the ammonia and make it 99.9% non-effective. Mix well. 2) Add 2 parts Demi Cream Developer. Mix well. DEMI TRANSLUCENT Tone • Gloss • Enhance Demi Translucent Color can be used to • Refresh • Tone • Gloss • Color compromised or fragile hair 1: Demi Translucent Color can be layered on top of any haircolor service! Try it over brunettes or redheads to enhance or intensify tones! 1: 2: 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer Demi Translucent Color needs BOTH! Mix first to deactivate Ammonia Then add Demi Cream Developer Translucent Color Catalyst makes 99.9% of the ammonia non-effective. Deposit Only 20 min 32 33 Demi Cream Developer Approximately 6 Volume (1.75%) Tone or Gloss 10 - 20 min Demi Translucent Color will deposit color on and just beneath the cuticle only. It uses an oxidative dye molecule to provide color longevity and shine. It will not disturb the natural melanin in the hair. RESULTS Variations in results can be achieved simply by changing between a Permanent, Demi Permanent and Demi Translucent formula. PERMANENT DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray Deposit Only • Blend Gray • Refresh Tone • Gloss • Enhance 1:1 1:2 1: 1: 2: 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Cream Developer 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst (10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) = PERMANENT 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer DEMI PERMANENT DEMI TRANSLUCENT • Adjusting the Formula for Gray Coverage • Formulation for Gray Coverage Coverage for Normal Hair Coverage for Resistant Gray Hair Alternative Formula for Resistant Gray Hair Coverage for Warmer Results or Vibrant Fashion Shades • Application Tips for Optimal Gray Coverage • Pre-Pigmentation formulation for GRAY HAIR Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Adjusting the Formula for Gray Coverage Gray hair is lacking the base pigment necessary to support the Target Color. These pigments must be added into your formula or filled into the hair to achieve gray coverage. Use the Natural (N) or Ultra Natural (NN) series in your formula to add these “missing” pigments. • For controlled results choose a Target Color within 2 to 3 Levels from the Natural Level. • In most cases we are working with hair that contains both pigmented and non-pigmented hair, and both should be considered for the formula. Account for Gray Coverage When formulating for gray coverage, remember to add the missing pigments to the hair. This can be done by adding a shade from one of the following series at the same level as the Target Color. • The Ultra Natural Series (NN). • The Natural Series (N). Other shade series such as Red (R), Gold (G) or Copper (C) can be added for warmer results. PERCENTAGE OF GRAY TARGET COLOR ADD BACK NATURAL PIGMENT AT SAME LEVEL AS TARGET COLOR* 25% 0 - 25% 90% Target Color (25 g) 10% Natural (3 g) 50% 25% - 50% 75% Target Color (21 g) 25% Natural (7 g) 75% 50% - 75% 50% Target Color (14 g) 50% Natural (14 g) 90% 75% - 100% 25% Target Color (3 g) 75% Natural (25 g) *Grams based on one application with a total of 28 g of Healing Color. 36 37 Use the Percentage Gray Swatches Remember to determine the Natural Level of the hair as well. This can be tricky as gray hair can make the Natural Level appear lighter! Determining the correct percentage of gray hair can make the difference in achieving gray coverage! • Hold the Gray Swatches up to the hair. • Using your fingers, spread the fibers on the swatch and blend into the hair to make the best evaluation. Formulation for Gray Coverage COVERAGE FOR NORMAL HAIR Choose a Permanent Color formula to achieve complete gray coverage. Start with a formula for the hair that is NOT GRAY, adjust formula for Percentage of Gray using the Gray Coverage Chart • 10 Volume is ideal for (but not limited to) fine to medium-textured hair. • 20 Volume is ideal for (but not limited to) medium to coarse-textured hair. • Demi Cream Developer is ideal for (but not limited to) gray blending. When using a Permanent Color to cover gray at new growth, choose a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula to refresh mid-shaft and ends and add shine. • Use the same Target Color without adjusting the formula for gray coverage. You do not add N or NN to the mid-shaft and ends formula. EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR GRAY COVERAGE WITH NATURAL (N) FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITHOUT NATURAL (N) TC 5 golden brown Option 1 – Demi Permanent Color UT red-orange 30g 5G + 60g Demi Cream Developer NL 7 natural blonde L/T 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 50% 22g 5G + 8g 5N + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Option 2 – Demi Translucent Color 30g 5G + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 30 minutes Gray Blending If you want to blend gray without complete coverage, use the same shades with Demi Cream Developer. Apply from scalp to ends. Example: 22g 5G + 8g 5N + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes Avoid Line of Demarcation If your client is concerned about having a prominent line of demarcation, try using a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula. This will blend gray and gradually lighten on-tone until the next color service. COVERAGE FOR RESISTANT GRAY HAIR When formulating for any resistant gray hair, L’ANZA recommends: • The Ultra Natural Series (NN) which contains increased pigment concentration to provide complete gray coverage. • Use 20 Volume Cream Developer with additional processing time for color development. EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY COVERAGE WITH ULTRA NATURAL (NN) TC 5 golden brown Option 1 – Demi Permanent Color UT red-orange 30g 5G + 60g Demi Cream Developer NL 7 natural blonde L/T 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 50% (resistant) 22g 5G + 8g 5NN + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer Option 2 – Demi Translucent Color 30g 5G + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 35 minutes Retouch Application Apply your new growth formula at the scalp first. Then, as you apply the refresh formula, cross-check for complete color saturation at the scalp. 38 39 FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITHOUT ULTRA NATURAL (NN) Process for 20 minutes ALTERNATIVE FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY HAIR If you do not have the Ultra Natural Series, L’ANZA recommends: • The Natural Series (N) and change the mixing ratio to 2 parts Healing Color and 1 part Cream Developer. • Use 30 Volume Cream Developer with additional processing time for color development. EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR RESISTANT GRAY COVERAGE WITH NATURAL (N) FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS WITHOUT NATURAL (N) TC 5 golden brown Option 1 – Demi Permanent Color UT orange-red 30g 5G + 60g Demi Cream Developer NL 7 natural blonde L/T 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 50% (resistant) 22g 5G + 8g 5N + 15g 30 Volume Cream Developer Option 2 – Demi Translucent Color Note: mixing ratio is 2:1 Process for 40 minutes 30g 5G + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes FORMULATION FOR GRAY COVERAGE WITH WARMER RESULTS OR VIBRANT FASHION SHADES Replace the Natural Series (N) or Ultra Natural (NN) with a shade(s) from the following families to replace the missing pigments at the Target Color. Level & Undertones • Red (R) • Copper (C) • Gold (G) DESCRIPTIONS UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING NEUTRALIZING BASE ENHANCING BASE • Gold-Copper (GC) 10 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet Gold • Copper-Gold (CG) 9 Light Blonde Yellow Violet Gold 8 Medium Blonde Yellow - Orange Violet - Blue Gold - Copper 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue Copper 6 Light Brown Orange - Red Blue - Green Copper - Red 5 Medium Brown Red - Orange Green - Blue Red - Copper 4 Dark Brown Red Green Red 3 Brown/Black Red - Brown Green Red 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red 1 Black NONE NONE NONE EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR VIBRANT RED ON GRAY HAIR FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS TC 5 red-copper OPTION 1 – Demi Permanent Color UT red-orange 30g 5RRC + 60g Demi Cream Developer NL 7 natural blonde L/T 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 40 41 LEVEL 50% 15g 5RRC + 15g 5CG + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer OPTION 2 – Demi Translucent Color 30g 5RRC + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 30 minutes Process for 20 minutes Application Tips for Optimal Gray Coverage • • • • Be sure the hair is thoroughly saturated during the application - especially around hairline. Use L’ANZA Protective Barrier Cream to protect skin from staining. Take thin slices and apply color on both sides of the part. After applying color, cross-check application. If you applied the color in horizontal sections, re-work color in vertical sections. • After application, keep hair close to the scalp to retain heat during processing. This is especially important for resistant gray hair coverage. Apply color to both sides of the part. Taking thin sections ensures proper coverage and saturation of the color. Each slice should be thin enough to see through. DON’T – thick section DO – thin section Pre-Pigmentation Rare situations may require pre-pigmentation. This is usually done for spot coverage of a gray patch. PRE-PIGMENTING THE HAIR • Choose the natural shade one level lighter than the Target Color, and mix as a Demi Permanent Color formula. • Apply to the gray patch only and process for 10 minutes. Rinse and blot dry. • Apply a Permanent Color formula with your Target Color to the entire head, and process for the complete time. Cleanse the hair first To ensure the best gray coverage, be sure to cleanse the hair before color application. See section on Preparing the Hair for more information. • Guidelines For Red Formulation Virgin Application Retouch Application • Red Formulation: Going Darker Going Darker 1 to 3 Levels Going Darker More Than 3 Levels • Mix Tones Creating Vibrant Fashion Tones formulation for RADIANT REDS Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Guidelines for Red Formulation • Choose a Target Color that is no more than 2 to 3 levels lighter or darker than starting level to ensure optimum control and longevity. • The proper Undertone must be present to support Target Color to ensure durability. • To maintain vibrancy, choose a Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent formula to refresh ends. VIRGIN APPLICATION EXAMPLE: TC bright level 7 copper UT orange NL 5 natural brown L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to copper % Gray 0% FORMULA FOR APPLICATION AT SCALP FORMULA FOR MID-SHAFT AND ENDS 30g 7CC + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer 30g 7CC + 30g 30 Volume Cream Developer Process for 35 minutes Process for 40 minutes RETOUCH APPLICATION EXAMPLE: TC bright level 7 copper UT orange NL 5 natural brown L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to copper % Gray 44 45 0% FORMULA FOR APPLICATION AT SCALP FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS OPTION 1 – Demi Permanent Color 30g 7CC + 60g Demi Cream Developer 30g 7CC + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer OPTION 2 – Demi Translucent Color 30g 7CC + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 35 minutes Process for 20 minutes Avoid “hot roots”! Using a lower volume Cream Developer at the scalp will avoid “hot roots” and create a more natural effect. Red Formulation: Going Darker When going darker, you will need to add the appropriate pigments to support the Undertone at the Target Color. You can use a shade(s) from the following families for vibrant results with durability. Level & Undertones LEVEL LEVEL NUMBER DESCRIPTIONS UNDERTONE EXPOSED NEUTRALIZING WHEN LIFTING BASE ENHANCING BASE 10 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet 9 Light Blonde Yellow Violet Gold 8 Medium Blonde Yellow - Orange Violet - Blue Gold - Copper 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue Copper 6 Light Brown Orange - Red Blue - Green Copper - Red 5 Medium Brown Red - Orange Green - Blue Red - Copper 4 Dark Brown Red Green Red GOING DARKER 1 TO 3 LEVELS 3 Brown/Black Red - Brown Green Red 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red You must add in the pigments to support the Undertone at the Target Color. 1 Black NONE NONE NONE • Red (R) • Copper (C) • Gold (G) • Gold-Copper (GC) • Copper-Gold (CG) EXAMPLE FORMULA 5 red red-orange 7 natural blonde 2 levels darker, from L/T neutral to red % Gray 0% Very Vibrant Red 23g 5R + 7g R Mix + 60g Demi Cream Developer Warm Red 27g 5R + 3g C Mix + 60g Demi Cream Developer Natural Red 25g 5R + 5g 5RRC + 60g Demi Cream Developer TC UT NL Gold Process for 20 minutes GOING DARKER MORE THAN 3 LEVELS L’ANZA recommends that you fill the hair to ensure vibrancy, durability and longevity. If you do not fill hair first, results may appear hollow or fade quickly. • Fill the hair choosing a shade one level lighter than the Target Color to support the Undertone at the Target Color. • Apply a Demi Permanent formula to the hair, process for 10 minutes. • Rinse thoroughly – Do not shampoo. Blot hair with towel. • Apply Target Color in a Permanent Color formula with 10 Volume Cream Developer. EXAMPLE 5 red red-orange 9 natural blonde 4 levels darker, from L/T neutral to red % Gray 0% TC UT NL FORMULA TO FILL 30g 6CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer FORMULA FOR SECONDARY APPLICATION Very Vibrant Red 23g 5R + 7g R Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Warm Red 27g 5R + 3g C Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Natural Red 25g 5R + 5g 5RRC + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Process for 10 minutes. Rinse and blot with towel. Process for 30 minutes Going darker more than 3 levels Be sure to consider the Undertone at BOTH the starting level and the level of the Target Color to determine which pigments need to be added back into the hair. Mix Tones Mix Tones can be used to neutralize or enhance color, according to the color wheel. When adding Mix Tones to enhance tone or refine warmth, it is recommended to add up to ¼ of the total color mixture with the selected Mix Tones. MIX TONE BASE BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX Blue Violet RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX X MIX Red Orange Yellow Green-Yellow RECOMMENDED USE Enhances blue tones, controls orange tones. Deepens ash tones. Mix Tone Additions* Enhancement Of Tone BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX RED MIX COPPER MIX GOLD MIX LEVEL 10 Enhances violet tones. Controls yellow tones and brassiness. Enhances red tones. Adds warmth. Enhances orange and copper tones. Adds warmth. Reduces ash tones. Enhances gold tones, adds warmth. Reduces violet tones. Reduces red tones. Prevents unwanted warmth. 34578 Violet Violet up to 3 g 9 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g 8 up to 1 g up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 3 g up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 7 Violet Violet g 6 5 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 4 up to 3 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 3 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 2 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g 1 up to 7 g up to 7 g up to 7 g *Up to 25% of color formula, based on one application with 28 g Healing Color. EXAMPLE FORMULA TC 6 cool, light brown OPTION 1 UT orange-red 30g 6AX + 30g 40 Volume Cream Developer NL 3 natural brown L/T 3 levels lighter, from neutral to cool % Gray 0% Refinement Of Warmth BLUE MIX VIOLET MIX LEVEL OPTION 2 10 up to 3 g up to 1 g 27g 6A + 3g X Mix + 30g 40 Volume Cream Developer 9 up to 3 g up to 1 g 8 up to 3 g up to 1 g up to 1 g 7 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 1 g 6 up to 1 g up to 1 g up to 3 g 5 up to 1 g up to 3 g 4 up to 1 g up to 3 g Process for 50 minutes In the example above, 40 Volume Cream Developer was used to lift the Undertone slightly higher, so that the formula would produce a cooler result. For a warmer result, 30 Volume Cream Developer would keep more red in the Undertone. Violet 3 up to 3 g 2 up to 3 g 1 46 | 47 X MIX 346 CREATING VIBRANT FASHION TONES Mix tones can also be used to achieve vibrant fashion tones. EXAMPLE FORMULA TC 5 vivid red UT red-orange NL 6 natural brown L/T 1 level darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 0% 23g 5R + 7g R Mix + 30g 20 Volume Cream Developer Note: Although we’re going from level 6 to 5, we’re using 20 Volume Cream Developer to expose more of the orange undertone to create a brighter, more vivid red. Process for 35 minutes Mix Tones can also be used in higher concentration in your formulas to create jewel tones. Below are some examples of formulas to achieve vivid and durable shades from the “Mixed Jewels” Color Concepts. EXAMPLES FORMULA African Amethyst 15g 8P + 15g V Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Blue Lapis 15g 8A + 15g B Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Brazilian Emerald 15g G Mix + 15g B Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Canary Diamond 12g 100 + 18g G Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Madeira Citrine 20g G Mix + 9g C Mix + 1g R Mix + 10 Volume Cream Developer Indian Carnelian 20g 7CC + 10g R Mix + 10 Volume Cream Developer LEVEL / UNDERTONE Best on hair that is lifted to pale yellow Best on hair at level 10 or lifted to yellow Best on hair at level 8 or lifted to gold • Undertones and Lifting Levels • Blonding with Permanent Color From Blonde to Blonder From Brown to Blonde • High Lift and Super Lift Blondes Blonding with High Lift Blondes Blonding with Super Lift Blondes • Blonding with Decolorizer L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer Strand Test Application • Toning Demi Translucent Color Formula To Control Warmth To Enhance Tone • Breaking the Base formulation for BLONDING Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Consider the Undertone of the Target Color! Make sure you lift the hair to support the Undertone required at the Target Color. If you’re starting at a NL 2 and your TC is level 8, be sure to lift to Gold. If you only lift to Red-Orange, you may have challenges controlling the warmth. If you lift to Pale Yellow, you may have a challenge with the end result looking “hollow” or fading off tone. Undertones and Lifting Levels As you lift to a lighter level, you will also uncover warmth. You will need to determine the lifting level to support the desired Target Color. When blonding, there are 7 identifiable levels of lift, as illustrated in the chart below. Please note how these correspond to the Undertone Chart and the Natural Levels of the hair. 7 STAGES OF LIFT UNDERTONE EXPOSED WHEN LIFTING NEUTRALIZING BASE ENHANCING BASE Pale Yellow 10 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet Gold Yellow 9 Light Blonde Yellow Violet Gold 8 Medium Blonde Yellow - Orange Violet - Blue Gold - Copper 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue Copper 6 Light Brown Orange - Red Blue - Green Copper - Red 5 Medium Brown Red - Orange Green - Blue Red - Copper 4 Dark Brown Red Green Red 3 Brown/Black Red - Brown Green Red 2 Dark Brown/Black Brown Green Red 1 Black NONE NONE NONE Gold Red-Orange Red Brown Black 50 51 LEVEL DESCRIPTIONS Blonding with Permanent Color To achieve very natural, warm blonde results, be sure to select a shade to control the Undertone and neutralize the unwanted warmth exposed during lifting. PERMANENT Lighten • Darken • Cover Gray FROM BLONDE TO BLONDER When starting at a Natural Level 7, you can blonde with Permanent Color. • Typically, you will select 30 Volume Cream Developer for your formula to achieve sufficient lift. • This is an alternate option to using High Lift Blondes, Super Lift Blondes or Decolorizer. EXAMPLE FORMULA TC 10 cool, light blonde UT pale yellow NL 8 natural blonde L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to cool % Gray 1:1 0% 1 Part Healing Color 30g 10P + 30g 30 Volume Cream Developer 1 Part Cream Developer (30, 40 Volume) Process for 40 minutes FROM BROWN TO BLONDE When starting at a Natural Level 5 or 6, you can achieve up to 3 levels of lift with Permanent Color. • Typically, you will select 30 or 40 Volume Cream Developer to achieve sufficient lift. • The results will usually fall in the Dark Blonde to Medium Blonde range. EXAMPLE FORMULA TC 8 natural light blonde UT yellow-orange NL 6 natural brown L/T 2 levels lighter, from neutral to cool % Gray 0% 30g 8AX + 30g 30 Volume Cream Developer Process for 40 minutes 30 Volume (9%) 2-3 levels of lift 40 min 40 Volume (12%) 3-4 levels of lift 50 min High Lift and Super Lift Blondes L’ANZA is unique because we offer two options for additional lift with our High Lift and Super Lift Blondes. HIGH LIFT BLONDES (100 SERIES) SUPER LIFT BLONDES (200 SERIES) Ideal For Lifting from level 7 and higher. Lifting from level 5 and higher. Levels of Lift Up to 4 levels of lift. Refines tone and controls warmth. Up to 5 levels of lift with greater refinement of tone and control of warmth. 100A 100B 100P 100V 100 200A Super Lift Ash Blonde 200AX Super Lift Extra Ash Blonde 200P Super Lift Pearl Blonde 200V Super Lift Violet Blonde Shades 52 53 Ultra Light Ash Blonde Ultra Light Beige Blonde Ultra Light Pearl Blonde Ultra Light Violet Blonde Ultra Blonde Booster Ammonia Content 2.5% Ammonia 3.36% Ammonia Cream Developer 1 part: Healing Color 2 parts: 40 Volume Cream Developer 1 part: Healing Color 2 parts: 40 Volume Cream Developer Processing Time 50 minutes 60 minutes Toning After Decolorizing, the High Lift Blondes make a great toner when formulated as a Demi Translucent Color. Not recommended for Toning as a Demi Translucent due to higher pigment concentration and ammonia content. Use 40 Volume Cream Developer Gray Coverage L’ANZA recommends using 40 Volume Cream Developer. If you use lower volumes of Cream Developer, there is less oxygen for color molecule development, so results may not be predictable and the desired lift and tone may not be achieved. L’ANZA High Lift and Super Lift Blondes are not designed for gray coverage. Alternate formulas using Permanent Color or Decolorizer should be considered to cover gray completely. BLONDING WITH HIGH LIFT BLONDES • Ideal for achieving up to 4 levels of lift when starting at Natural Level 7. • Higher ammonia content of 2.5% allows for more lift than L’ANZA classic shades. • Mix Healing Color 1:2 with 40 Volume Cream Developer, and process for 50 minutes. 100A 100 Ultra Light Ultra Light Blonde Booster Ash Blonde 100B 100P Ultra Light Beige Blonde Ultra Light Pearl Blonde HIGH LIFT BLONDES Blonding • Highlighting 100V Ultra Light Violet Blonde 1:2 Neutral Base Blue Base EXAMPLE TC 10 light beige blonde UT pale yellow NL 8 golden blonde L/T 2 levels lighter, from warm to cool Yellow-Green Base Violet-Blue Base Violet Base FORMULA FOR VIRGIN HAIR OR AT SCALP FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS 30g 100P + 60g 40 Volume Cream Developer 30g 100P + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 50 minutes Process for 10 to 20 minutes 1 Part Healing Color (100 Series) 2 Parts Cream Developer (40 Volume) 40 Volume (12%) 100 Ultra Blonde Booster Up to 4 Levels of lift The 100 Ultra Blonde Booster can be used in several ways. Recommended uses include: • Add it to any classic shade formula (levels 1 to 10) to boost the lifting ability, creating 1/2 level lighter results. • Add it to any classic shade in a Demi Translucent Color formula to dilute the pigment deposit for a sheer gloss result. 50 min BLONDING WITH SUPER LIFT BLONDES Deliver maximum lift with exceptional control of unwanted warmth in a single process. • Ammonia content of 3.36% provides a maximum lift of up to 5 levels. • Additional pigment concentration provides extra control of warmth and refinement of tone. • Ideal when starting at levels 5 and higher. 200A 200AX 200P Super Lift Extra Ash Blonde Pearl Blonde Super Lift Violet Blonde Blue Base Green Base Violet-Blue Base Violet Base FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS 30g 200V + 60g 40 Volume Cream Developer 30g 100V + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer % Gray 0% Process for 50 minutes Process for 5 to 20 minutes EXAMPLE FORMULA FOR VIRGIN HAIR OR AT SCALP FORMULA TO REFRESH MID-SHAFT AND ENDS 10 light cool blonde UT pale yellow NL 6 natural brown L/T 4 levels lighter, from warm to cool TC 10 light cool blonde UT pale yellow NL 6 natural brown L/T 4 levels lighter, from warm to neutral % Gray 0% 2 Parts Cream Developer (40 Volume) 40 Volume (12%) 30g 200AX + 60g 40 Volume Cream Developer 30g 100B + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 50 minutes Process for 5 to 20 minutes Up to 5 Levels of lift 60 min Use a High Lift Blonde in a Demi Translucent Formula to Refresh 54 55 1:2 1 Part Healing Color (200 Series) FORMULA FOR VIRGIN HAIR OR AT SCALP TC Maximum Lift and Control 200V Super Lift Ash Blonde EXAMPLE Super Lift SUPER LIFT BLONDES Using the Super Lift Blondes (200 Series) to refresh is not recommended. The higher ammonia and pigment concentration may deposit too much color on the hair, and results may be darker than expected. L’ANZA recommends using the High Lift Blondes (100 series) in a Demi Translucent formula to refresh instead. Blonding with Decolorizer L’ANZA POWDER DECOLORIZER (Decolorizing up to 7 levels of lift) L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer is ideal for lifting both artificial and natural pigment. Our exclusive Keratin Healing System ensures unmatched hair integrity and can be formulated for on or off-scalp lightening. • • • • Powder Decolorizer is dust-free and easy to mix for smooth consistency and application. A hint of violet controls warmth at any stage of lift. Contains L’ANZA’s Keratin Healing System to ensure hair integrity during and after process. Mix 1 part Decolorizer and 2 parts Cream Developer. The result is beautiful, luminous hair, lightened to L’ANZA perfection. FEATURES BENEFIT Keratin Healing System Keratin Amino Acids, Minerals & Moisturizers ensure hair integrity during and after process. Controlled Lift Fast-acting and allows control lift for up to 7 levels. Dust-free Powder Easy to use and mix. Smooth consistency allows for ideal application. Violet Base Prevents undesired warmth. On or Off-Scalp Formulation Flexibility to achieve all types of services. Demi Cream Developer L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer can be mixed with Demi Cream Developer for controlled, low levels of lift, creating subtle highlights. You can achieve beautiful gold and caramel shades in one step, without having to tone afterwards. For natural, multi-dimensional blondes, use foils and alternate your Decolorizer formulas with Demi Cream Developer and 10 or 20 Volume Cream Developer. L’ANZA POWDER DECOLORIZER Powder Decolorizer may be used for both on-scalp and off-scalp applications and for natural or artificial color removal. POWDER DECOLORIZER Blonding • Highlighting STRAND TEST A strand test will assist you with formulation and processing. Hair porosity, previous color applications, and build-up of artificial pigments may not lift as expected. If the hair is not suitable to decolorize after your strand test discoveries, recommend the proper L’ANZA treatment and regimen to prepare the hair for future service. 1:2 A strand test is particularly valuable when removing artificial pigments from the hair. Before applying Decolorizer to the entire head, L’ANZA recommends that you conduct a strand test first to evaluate how easily the haircolor will lift. 1 Part Powder Decolorizer Conducting a Strand Test 2 Parts Cream Developer (Demi, 10, 20, 30, 40 Volume) • Assess the hair and formulate the appropriate Decolorizer formula. Mix a small batch. • Isolate a small, unnoticeable section of hair, and apply the Decolorizer formula. ON-SCALP • Check regularly to evaluate the level of lift and processing time. Demi up to • Look for any potential issues – such as uneven lift, the appearance of bands, or stubborn color 10 Volume 60 min 20 Volume deposits that show little signs of lift. • Determine if you should proceed with the Decolorizer service and/or recommend other services for the client. Demi up to 10 Volume 60 min Timing Don’t let it dry out! 20 Volume Timing will vary depending on the desired lightening level, condition and porosity of the hair. The Decolorizer formula must remain moist to continue lifting. 40 Volume Be sure to watch the hair and tone during processing for both Decolorizing and Toning. 56 57 OFF-SCALP If you find the formula is starting to dry out, reapply or cover loosely with a cap. Remember to poke holes in the plastic cap to allow gases to escape! 30 Volume To Heat or Not to Heat? L’ANZA does not recommend the use of heat to accelerate the lifting process. Please refer to page 70 of this guide for additional information. ON-SCALP APPLICATION For on-scalp applications, be sure to use Demi, 10 Volume or 20 Volume Cream Developer only. There are 2 options for application when applying Decolorizer on-scalp APPLICATION OPTION 1 – first off-scalp, then on-scalp • Mix off-scalp Decolorizer formula. Apply to hair, starting about 1” from scalp to the ends - do not apply all the way to scalp! • Process until the mid-shaft and ends have lighted halfway to the desired level, then proceed to next step. • Mix on-scalp Decolorizer formula. • Apply on-scalp Decolorizer formula to the remaining 1” of hair at the scalp. • Process until the desired level of lift is achieved (up to 60 minutes). • Rinse completely with cool or tepid water. Gently cleanse with L’ANZA Healing Moisture Tamanu Cream Shampoo to replace moisture and sooth scalp. • Tone as desired (see next section for toning guidelines). APPLICATION OPTION 2 – first scalp to ends, then off-scalp • Mix on-scalp Decolorizer formula. Apply from the scalp to ends. • Process until hair at scalp has achieved desired level of lift at scalp (up to 60 minutes). • Rinse with cool or tepid water. Blot dry. • Reassess the amount of lift required for the mid-shaft to ends. Adjust the volume of Cream Developer if needed. • Mix the appropriate off-scalp Decolorizer formula. Apply starting about 1” from scalp to the ends. • Process until the desired level of lift is achieved (up to 60 minutes). • Rinse completely with tepid or cool water. Gently cleanse with L’ANZA Healing Moisture Tamanu Cream Shampoo to replace moisture and sooth scalp. • Tone as desired (see next section for toning guidelines). EXAMPLE USING APPLICATION OPTION 2 TC 10 light blonde UT pale yellow NL 4 natural brown L/T 6 levels lighter, from neutral to cool % Gray 0% FORMULA FOR FIRST APPLICATION FROM SCALP TO ENDS FORMULA FOR SECOND APPLICATION FROM MID-SHAFT TO ENDS 30g Decolorizer + 60g 20 Volume Cream Developer 30g Decolorizer + 60g 30 Volume Cream Developer Process until hair at scalp is lifted to Pale Yellow (up to 60 minutes, without heat). Apply 1” from scalp and process until hair is lifted to Pale Yellow (up to 60 minutes, without heat). For even results, the level at mid-shaft and ends should match the level at the scalp. TONER 30g 10P + 30g Translucent Color Catalyst + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 10 minutes. Toning DEMI TRANSLUCENT FORMULA After Decolorizing, a Demi Translucent formula is often your best option for toning. For natural looking blondes with either warm or cool tones, we suggest using the following shades. DEMI TRANSLUCENT Tone • Gloss • Enhance TO CONTROL WARMTH FAMILY BASE CONTROLS Violet Violet Yellow tones and brassiness Pearl Violet-Blue Yellow-Orange tones Ash Blue Orange tones Extra Ash Green Red tones 1: 1: 2: 1 Part Healing Color 1 Part Translucent Color Catalyst 2 Parts Demi Cream Developer TO ENHANCE TONE FAMILY BASE ENHANCES Beige Yellow-Green Beige tones Gold Yellow Yellow / Gold tones Gold-Copper Yellow-Orange Gold / Copper tones Toning Options You can use different shade formulations for toning to create fashion techniques. This model was decolorized first, then two different toning formulas from the L’ANZA Color Concepts were used. • “Rose Gold” on the sides and fringe. • “White Gold” on the remaining hair on top of head. 58 59 Tone 10-20 min NOTE: Be sure to mix Healing Color and Translucent Color Catalyst first, then add Demi Cream Developer. Breaking the Base What is “breaking the base”? When you break the base, you are shifting the base up by half of a level to create a more blended result between darker new growth and lighter blonde ends, while preserving maximum integrity of the hair. A Base Break is ideally done on hair where new growth is 1 inch or less. SUGGESTED BASE BREAK FORMULAS FORMULA LEVEL On levels 6, 7 and 8 30g 9A + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Or 30g 9AX + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer On levels 4, 5 and 6 30g 7A + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Or 30g 7AX + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer On level 3 30g 5AX + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Extra Control with Extra Ash! For extra control of warmth, especially at lower levels, you may try using the Extra Ash Series (9AX, 7AX, 5AX) in place of the Ash Series (9A, 7A, 5A) in the formulas above. APPLICATION 1. Place highlights in foils. 2. 15 minutes before rinsing, mix formula for Base Break. 3. Rinse out foils, shampoo hair and rinse again. 4. Mist with Magic Bullet and comb smooth. 5. Towel blot hair. 6. Apply the Base Break formula at the scalp process for 5-15 minutes. 7. Rinse, shampoo and condition. • Checking for Client Sensitivity Conducting a Patch Test • Preparing the Hair for Optimal Results Ultimate Treatment Alternative Preparation Options preparing hair for COLOR SERVICES Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Checking for Client Sensitivity CONDUCTING A PATCH TEST For some clients, the color formula may cause serious inflammation of the skin. A preliminary test should always be carried out to determine whether or not special sensitivity exists. To perform a patch test, follow these easy steps. 1. Cleanse a small area of the skin behind the ear or on the inner surface of the forearm, using either soap and water or alcohol. 2. Mix a small quantity of the haircolor formula as prepared for actual use. 3. Apply to the area and allow to dry completely. 4. After 48 hours, gently wash the test area with soap and water. 5. If no irritation or inflammation is apparent, it is usually assumed that no hypersensitivity to the formula exists. This test should, however, be carried out before each color application. Don’t forget the Protective Barrier Cream! • Provides exceptional skin and scalp protection against unwanted stains or irritation during color services. • Easy to apply and stays in place – won’t melt! • Easy to wash off. • Can also be used before other chemical services, such as perms. 62 63 Preparing the Hair for Optimal Results A number of factors can prevent optimum color results. Mineral deposits, pollution and product build-up can block color penetration. Compromised hair lacks integrity and structure for even deposition of color. L’ANZA recommends cleansing the hair prior to color application to ensure optimal color results. Here are a few options to prepare the hair. THE ULTIMATE TREATMENT The Ultimate Treatment is specifically designed to be used in conjunction with other in-salon services. • Dramatically improves service results. • Increases client satisfaction and retention. • Stimulates repeat business. The Ultimate Color Service prepares hair for optimal color results by removing impurities that block color uptake, and restore essential proteins to ensure even color results. Step 1 Purify Hair with Chelating Shampoo. POWER BOOSTER DOSAGE CHART Add any three pumps to the Deep Treatment in Step 2 HAIR TYPE Dry STRENGTH 1 Severely Dry Apply to damp hair, lather and rinse thoroughly. Weak / Fragile 2 Do not manipulate scalp. Severely Weak 3 Fine / Thin 1 2 1 2 Add 1 pump Strength and 2 pumps Moisture Power Very Fine / Thin Boosters to 1 pump Deep Treatment. Emulsify and apply to damp hair. Leave in 3-5 minutes. Do not Color-Processed 1 2 manipulate scalp. Rinse thoroughly. Color Service 1 2 Permed 1 1 Perm Service 2 1 Straightening Service 2 1 Step 3 Towel dry hair. Spray in Power Protector to seal in nutrients. Comb through, and then proceed with color application. VOLUME 3 Step 2 Apply Deep Treatment with Power Boosters. MOISTURE 3 1 ALTERNATE PREPARATION OPTIONS Don’t Scrub the Scalp! HEALING PURE CLARIFYING SHAMPOO This is a quick and easy way to purify the hair prior to a color service. • Removes impurities such as minerals, pollution and product build-up. • Contains effective chelators derived from organic rice; does not contain EDTA! • Weekly clarifying keeps hair healthy! Send your clients home with Healing Pure Clarifying Shampoo, along with Keratin Infusion for the ideal purifying system! TRAUMA TREATMENT Over-processing and damage depletes hair of nutrients, causing uneven color results and quick fadeage. Trauma Treatment replaces these essential ingredients, improving color results and longevity. • Deep conditioning treatment that heals traumatized hair. • Versatile formula can be used as a leave-in or rinse-out treatment. Use as a daily or weekly conditioner. • Flower Shield Complex and sunscreens protect color-treated hair. • Contains Color Attachment Technology to improve color results. • Contains abundant amounts of essential amino acids for proper attachment of color within the hair. 64 65 When cleansing the hair prior to a color service, remember - do not manipulate the scalp! This may increase client sensitivity during the color process. Focus cleaning the ends of the hair where it’s more porous and most likely to have product build-up that would interfere with the color service. Professional Services with Trauma Treatment • To improve color attachment, apply to clean hair before to color service and leave in. • For extremely compromised hair, add 5 grams (1 tsp.) directly to your L’ANZA Healing Color formula. Evolution Hair Studio, Minneapolis, Minnesota • Measuring Healing Color: the L’ANZA Scale • Application For Best Results Virgin Application Retouch Application • To Heat or Not to Heat L’ANZA Does Not Recommend Using Heat Color Needs the Fully Recommended Time to Develop Formulate to Address Resistant Hair Application • After Color Services Haircolor Stain Remover Healing Colorcare mixing, application & PROCESSING Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Measuring Healing Color: the L’ANZA Scale The use of the scale is simple and will ensure correct, predictable and accurate formulation for each application. The use of the scale will also help save money, because you can measure the exact amount of color needed. SCALE USAGE INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Place empty color bowl on scale. 2. Turn on scale. 3. Select grams or ounces. 4. Measure the correct amount of color into the bowl. 5. Measure correct amount developer into the bowl. 6. Add Trauma Treatment if needed. 7. Mix: no need to transfer mixture into another container and waste product. If you have unused color following your application, you can measure the remaining color left in the bowl and record this information on your Client Record Card. Next time, you can adjust the amount of product you prepare, saving product and money. 68 69 Mix Until Smooth Demi Translucent Formulas Be sure to completely mix Healing Color with Cream Developer to a smooth, creamy consistency. When mixing a Demi Translucent formula, be sure to completely mix Healing Color with the Translucent Color Catalyst first! Next, add the Demi Cream Developer and mix to a smooth, creamy consistency. Application L’ANZA Healing Color was designed to be applied to the hair with a brush and bowl. FOR BEST RESULTS • Take thin slices of hair to ensure even saturation. • Thoroughly lay the color with your brush on the hair. Do not “scrape” the hair with the bristles, as this will remove color from the hair. • Be sure to cross-check your application to make sure all hair is thoroughly saturated. • Apply color up to the hairline. The Protective Barrier Cream will help prevent staining of the skin, but will not block haircolor coverage along the hairline. VIRGIN COLOR APPLICATION 1. Apply to mid-shaft; follow with application to scalp area and ends. 2. Process according to developer. RETOUCH APPLICATION 1. Apply Permanent Color formula to new growth area. 2. Refresh ends using Demi Permanent or Demi Translucent Color formula for the final 20 minutes of the Permanent Color processing time. Do not overwork the hair! Process for the full time During application, do not “overwork” the hair by moving it back and forth too much or combing back and forth after application. This may increase client sensitivity and also cause the color to shift. If you remove the color before the end of the processing time, the color molecules will not have the proper time to fully develop. Apply it right the first time – you’ll get better results and save time! This may affect the tonality of your end result, or it may affect the durability of your client’s color, causing it to fade quickly or off-tone. To Heat or Not to Heat L’ANZA DOES NOT RECOMMEND USING HEAT DURING PROCESSING. Using heat will swell the cuticle of the hair. For optimum integrity of the hair, color stability and longevity of results, L’ANZA does not recommend using heat during processing. COLOR NEEDS THE FULLY RECOMMENDED TIME TO DEVELOP. Do not use heat to shorten the processing time! You will sacrifice the development of the color molecule, which may result in uneven lift (spotty results) or low reflectivity of the color (dull color). FORMULATE TO ADDRESS RESISTANT HAIR. Instead of using heat for resistant hair, try adjusting your color formula first. • Use the Ultra Natural Series (NN). Please refer to the formulation for gray coverage. • Adjust the volume of Cream Developer. For instance, use 30 Volume instead of 20 Volume. • Adjust your mixing ratio. Use 2 parts Healing Color with 1 part Cream Developer. L’ANZA does not recommend placing a plastic cap over the head during processing time. This will prevent the ammonia gases from escaping, and may increase sensitivity, itching and/or redness. If you are going to place a plastic cap over the head to prevent color from drying out, be sure to poke holes in the cap to allow the release of ammonia gas. • Allow an additional 5 to 10 minutes to process. APPLICATION Proper application is essential. • Be sure to take thin slices during application to make sure the hair is fully saturated with the color. Apply the color to both sides of the hair. • After applying color to one section, keep it close to the scalp (don’t raise the sections off of the scalp). This will keep the warmth of the head to help process the color. If you still insist on using heat without having tried the above suggestions, please consider the following. • If your client is known to have “sensitive scalp,” DO NOT use heat under any circumstances. • Process the color without heat for 15 minutes FIRST. This will allow the most of the ammonia gas to dissipate. Then place the client under a MODERATE heat (not HOT) for 5 minutes only. Remove from heat, and allow to process for the remainder of the recommended time. • On dry hair, preheat for 5 minutes, then remove from heat and apply the color. Process for the full time WITHOUT heat. 70 71 After Color Services HAIRCOLOR STAIN REMOVER • Effortlessly dissolves and removes haircolor stains from skin, clothing, salon surface and tools. • Gentle on skin, won’t cause irritation. • Pleasing signature fragrance of Healing Color and Healing Colorcare. HEALING COLORCARE Extends haircolor up to 107% longer! Ensure that your clients keep their hair healthy and vibrant! Healing Colorcare contains L’ANZA’s remarkable Flower Shield Complex to preserve haircolor longer – the same anti-fade compounds found in Healing Color. The Keratin Healing System, plus UVA / UVB / UVC Protectors, combine to extend haircolor up to 107% longer over leading professional brands. So effective are these high-performing formulations, haircolor is guaranteed to look rich and vibrant, longer! • • • • • Color-Preserving Shampoo – daily shampoo Color-Preserving Conditioner – daily conditioner Trauma Treatment – leave-in or rinse-out weekly treatment Magic Bullet – daily elixir and color-preserver Silver Brightening Shampoo – controls brassiness and enhances cool tones • Going Lighter Lifting More than 4 Levels Lifting Up to 4 Levels • Going Darker Going Darker 1 to 2 Levels Going Darker More than 2 Levels • Removing Color Build-Up Color-Cleansing Shampoo Color Cleanse Examples Application for a Standard Color Cleanse Application when Color Results Appear Too Dark • Conducting a Strand Test corrective COLOR Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Whether you are changing tone, removing color build-up or unwanted color, going lighter or darker, low-lights, tint-back, or coloring gray; you will be correcting what the client currently has. This section contains an overview for some color solutions outside the standard or normal color services. This is not intended to be comprehensive and we recommend you attend L’ANZA corrective color seminars when available in your area. • COLOR CORRECTION IS NOT AS DIFFICULT AS IT MAY SEEM, AS LONG AS YOU REMEMBER THE BASIC LAWS OF COLOR, USE THE COLOR WHEEL AND UNDERSTAND HOW TO USE L’ANZA HEALING COLOR AND THE TOOLS PROVIDED. • WHEN DOING CORRECTIVE COLOR SERVICES ALWAYS CONSIDER THE CONDITION AND HEALTH OF THE HAIR. • SOMETIMES YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO CORRECT THE COLOR PROBLEM IN ONE SESSION. • PROPER ASSESSMENT OF THE HAIR IS A KEY FACTOR TO CONSIDER. DONE CORRECTLY, IT WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND THE RESULT WILL BE MORE PLEASING TO YOU AND THE CLIENT. Is the Hair Healthy Enough for Color Correction? When doing corrective color services, always consider the condition and health of the hair. Is it strong enough to withstand the multiple color processes required? Properly Assess the Hair FIRST! Proper assessment of the hair and existing color are key factors to consider. Take the time to assess the hair correctly, and you will save time and the result will be more pleasing to your client. Remember the Laws of Color Don’t make color correction more difficult than it is. Remember the basic laws of color, use the Color Wheel as your guide, and understand how to use L’ANZA Healing Color and tools provided. 74 75 Going Lighter LIFTING MORE THAN 4 LEVELS • Choose Decolorizer and the right developer for the target result. • Only lift to the level to the required supporting Undertone of the Target Color. Refer to the Undertone Chart. • Remember when you tone you can only tone cooler, not lighter. It is recommended to lighten to the level necessary to obtain the result you want. LIFTING UP TO 4 LEVELS • Choose the right developer! Remember you will always expose warmth; decide if you want to enhance it or neutralize it. Refer to the Undertone Chart to decide what base is best for your Target Color. Going Darker GOING DARKER 1 TO 2 LEVELS • Select the shade(s) to add back the missing pigments at the target level. Approximately ¼ of the mixture should be the missing pigments at the target level. Refer to the Undertone Chart. EXAMPLE TC 7 copper-gold UT orange NL 9 blonde L/T 2 levels darker, from neutral to warm % Gray 0% FORMULA FORMULA FOR VERY RESISTANT HAIR 30g 7CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer 27g 7CG + 3g C Mix + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes Process for 10 to 20 minutes See section on Blonding Information related to lightening can be found in the blonding section of this technical guide. RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FILLING MORE THAN 2 LEVELS Filling Resistant Hair You must fill the hair to ensure vibrancy, durability and longevity. If you do not fill hair first, results may appear hollow or fade quickly. • Fill the hair choosing a shade 1 level lighter than the Target Color to replace the missing pigments needed to support the Undertone at the Target Color. • Apply a Demi Permanent Color formula to the hair, process for 10 minutes. • Rinse thoroughly – Do not shampoo. Blot hair with towel. • Apply Target Color in a formula with Demi or 10 Volume Cream Developer. LEVEL OF TARGET COLOR FORMULA FOR FILLING FOR A NATURAL RESULT FOR A WARMER RESULT 8 30g 9G + 60g Demi Cream Developer 24g 9G + 6g 8C + 60g Demi Cream Developer 7 30g 8G + 60g Demi Cream Developer 22g 9G + 8g 8C + 60g Demi Cream Developer 6 30g 7GC + 60g Demi Cream Developer 30g 7CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer 5 30g 6GC + 60g Demi Cream Developer 30g 6CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer 4 30g 5CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer 30g 5R + 60g Demi Cream Developer 3, 2 or 1 30g 4CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer 30g 4R + 60g Demi Cream Developer EXAMPLE TC 5 copper-gold UT orange-red NL 9 blonde (bleached) L/T 4 levels darker, from warm to warm % Gray 0% 76 77 When formulating for resistant hair, use 10 Volume Cream Developer instead of Demi Cream Developer. Fill FORMULA 30g 6CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 10 minutes. Rinse and blot with towel. FORMULA FOR SECONDARY APPLICATION Normal Hair Resistant Hair 30g 5CG + 60g Demi Cream Developer Process for 20 minutes. 30g 5CG + 30g 10 Volume Cream Developer Process for 30 minutes. Removing Color Build-Up COLOR-CLEANSING SHAMPOO In a corrective color process, the professional colorist may need to perform a color cleanse to remove excessive or undesired pigments from previously-colored hair. L’ANZA’s Color-Cleansing Shampoo is specifically designed to be used with L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer and Cream Developers to remove these artificial pigments. It can be formulated in three strengths, depending on the amount of color to be removed. The Color-Cleansing Shampoo contains natural, yet effective cleansing agents, including Witch Hazel, Anise Fruit, and Grapefruit Extracts. Chelators derived from Phytic Acid, along with a pH of 6.9, gently and effectively remove dyes and embedded metals. Gugo Bark provides abundant lathering. Keratin Healing System and Aloe Vera keep hair healthy. When performing a color cleanse, start with the mild formula and perform a strand test. Mix with equal parts for desired strength. 1: Color-Cleansing Shampoo 1: Powder Decolorizer MILD: 1: Water MEDIUM: 1: 10 Volume Cream Developer STRONG: 1: 20 Volume Cream Developer COLOR CLEANSE EXAMPLES HAIR IS NATURAL LEVEL 5 BROWN WITH LEVEL 3 BROWN ON THE ENDS. TARGET COLOR IS 5RRC (ULTRA RED COPPER). • A color cleanse is required to prevent the ends of the hair from appearing too dark. • A strong color cleanse formula was used to remove dark pigments from the ends, lifting to the appropriate Undertone for level 5 hair. • A formula of 5RRC with 20 Volume Cream Developer was applied to entire hair shaft and processed for recommended time. BEFORE AFTER Color Cleanse AFTER Color Application HAIR IS NATURAL LEVEL 10 BLONDE WITH LEVEL 7 COPPER ON THE ENDS. TARGET COLOR IS 9A (ASH). • A color cleanse is required to prevent the ends of the hair from appearing too dark or muddy. • A strong color cleanse formula was used to remove copper pigments from the ends, lifting to the appropriate Undertone for Level 9 hair. • A formula of equal parts of 9A and 9N with Demi Cream Developer was applied to the virgin hair at the base. • A formula of 9A with Demi Cream Developer was applied to the ends of the hair and processed for recommended time. BEFORE 78 79 AFTER Color Cleanse AFTER Color Application APPLICATION FOR A STANDARD COLOR CLEANSE 1. Wear gloves. In a plastic bowl, mix equal parts of Color-Cleansing Shampoo and Powder Decolorizer with Water or Cream Developer. 2. Dampen the client’s hair at shampoo bowl, and apply mixture to target areas only. DO NOT apply to virgin hair (non-color-treated hair) or where color cleansing is not required. 3. Work through hair with hands for 10 to 15 minutes. Avoid excessive contact with scalp or virgin hair. Do not use heat. 4. Rinse thoroughly with tepid water and assess hair. If target result is achieved, proceed with color service. Reapply if necessary, determining strength based on the NEW tone and level of hair. APPLICATION OF COLOR RESULTS APPEAR TOO DARK Sometimes, a color or toner application can have an end result that appears “too dark” or “too strong”. In this case, using the Color-Cleansing Shampoo by itself (without adding Decolorizer or Cream Developer) may be sufficient to remove excess pigments. 1. Assess hair immediately upon completion of color service. 2. Dampen hair at shampoo bowl. 3. Apply Color-Cleansing Shampoo, and lather for 1-3 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with tepid water. Conducting a Strand Test Perform a strand test FIRST to determine the strength of the formula and if the color cleanse will produce the desired results. Taking 10 minutes to perform this test will help you save time and protect your client’s hair! To perform a strand test, follow these easy steps. 1. Mix equal parts of Color-Cleansing Shampoo, Decolorizer and Demi Cream Developer. 2. Apply color cleanse mixture to a strand of hair, preferably at the back of the head. 3. If you see movement within 10-15 minutes, you can proceed with a color cleanse. Evaluate the hair and determine the required strength of the color cleanse. 4. If you see no movement in 15 minutes, a color cleanse may not work. Leave on for another 15 minutes and re-evaluate. 5. If you see movement after 30 minutes, you may proceed with a color cleanse or decolorizing. 6. If you see no movement after 30 minutes, a color cleanse or decolorizing will probably not produce the desired results. You will need to review other options with your client, such as changing your Target Color, cutting the hair, or sending your client home. WARNING SIGNS When performing a strand test, it is important to look for these warning signs which may indicate presence of mineral deposits or metallic dyes on the hair. In some cases, attempting to remove these metals from the hair can be very difficult or cause damage. • Foul Odor – if you notice a strong sulfur smell, this indicates possible mineral deposits, such as chlorine or iron. • Discoloration dripping from hair – if the hair starts to drip and has a purple or green tone, this indicates deposits of minerals, metals or metallic salts, possibly from “box” color. If you notice any of these warning signs, RINSE HAIR IMMEDIATELY! DO NOT PROCEED WITH COLOR SERVICE! Extreme damage may be caused to your client’s hair. Discuss a possible haircut to remove these portions of the hair, or determine a future plan of action for treatments and home maintenance. Recommend that the client use Healing Pure Clarifying Shampoo and Keratin Infusion regularly, then re-evaluate hair in 1-2 weeks. The first and only color that HEALS – SEALS – PROTECTS Through our exclusive Color Attachment Technology GLOSSARY Healing Color Hotline 1(888) 831- 5325 US/WorldWide | www.lanza.com Acid – a water-based solution which falls between 0 and 7 on the pH scale. Hydrogen Peroxide is an acid which is found in varying concentrations in L’ANZA Healing Color Developers. It assists in the oxidation of artificial color molecules. Adjective: acidic Alkali – a water-based solution which falls between 7 and 14 on the pH scale. Ammonia is an alkali which is found in L’ANZA Healing Color and assists in the oxidation of artificial color molecules. Adjective: alkaline Amino Acid – the building block of protein. L’ANZA uses human hair Keratin as its protein source. There are 19 amino acids which make up human hair keratin. These include amino acids noted in L’ANZA’s proprietary complexes: Tyrosine in Healing Colorcare, Cysteine in Healing Strength and Leucine in Healing Smooth. Ammonia - a naturally occurring alkali which is composed of Nitrogen and Hydrogen. Ammonia is found in L’ANZA Healing Color and is instrumental in the oxidation of color molecules through their interaction with hydrogen peroxide. L’ANZA Healing Color contains 1.68% ammonia in its standard shades, 2.5% ammonia in its High Lift Blonde Series (100), and 3.36% in its Super Lift Blonde Series (200). Base Break – the process of using a haircolor to diffuse a line of demarcation. L’ANZA recommends a shade which is 2 levels lighter than the natural level and in a controlling tone, mixed with 10 Volume Cream Developer. Please refer to the section on Base Break for more information. Carotenoid – a class of naturally occurring phyto-compounds found in flowers which help protect them from sun damage. Carotenoids protect the warm pigments ranging from yellow to orange to deep red. Carotenoids from yellow roses, calendula flowers and hibiscus flowers are contained in the Flower Shield Complex. Certified Organic – a classification of organic products which is defined by a set of production standards for growing, storage and processing, that include: avoidance of most synthetic additives (chemical fertilizers, antibiotics, pesticides, food additives), irradiation, genetically-modified organisms, use of farmlands which have been free from such synthetics for a number of years (usually 3 or more), detailed audit trails, strict separation of organic and certified organic products, and periodic on-site inspections. L’ANZA chooses Certified Organic ingredients whenever possible for inclusion in their products. Chlorophyll – a phyto-compound found in most plants which helps the plant produce food though photosynthesis. It protects green pigments in the plant from sun damage. L’ANZA utilizes chlorophyll from green orchids for the same purpose in the Flower Shield Complex. 82 83 Color Attachment Technology – a L’ANZA exclusive technology which consists of the combination of the Keratin Healing System and the Flower Shield Complex. Cortex – the main component of the hair which is made up of keratin fibers and is found beneath the Cuticle. It is responsible for the hair’s mechanical properties such as housing melanin and elasticity, and is the most important hair structure for hair coloration. Cream Developer – the creamy base which contains the hydrogen peroxide required for developer haircolor Precursors. L’ANZA Cream Developers also contain the Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex to heal, seal and protect the hair. These developers do not contain any ammonia. Cuticle – the outer layer of the hair which is made up of flat overlapping cells. It protects the cortex and greatly influences the look and feel of the hair. A flat, healed cuticle tangles less, holds in haircolor and reflects light. A damaged cuticle is a major cause of color fading, poor light reflection, and tangling. Cuticle Cortex Membrane (CCM) - an ultra-thin membrane which surrounds all cuticle and cortex cells and connects them to one another. Direct Pigments may stain the CCM. Decolorizer – L’ANZA’s dust-free powder lightener. This product can be mixed with Demi, 10 Volume or 20 Volume Cream Developer for on-scalp lightening and 30 or 40 Volume Cream Developer for off-scalp to achieve shiny, beautiful blondes. L’ANZA Decolorizer contains the Keratin Healing System which leaves hair in the healthiest state possible. Demi Permanent Color – deposit-only haircolor which penetrates the Cuticle layer depositing color into the Cuticle and partly into the Cortex of the hair. This type of color does not disturb the natural Melanin due to low ammonia and peroxide levels and generally lasts from 4 to 6 weeks. It is recommended for color refreshing, filling, corrective color, color layering and modern gray coverage. To create Demi Permanent Color, simply mix L’ANZA Healing Color fashion shades with L’ANZA Demi Cream Developer! Demi Translucent Color – a virtually ammonia-free, sheerer formulation of L’ANZA Healing Color which penetrates the cuticle only. Used to tone, refresh, brighten and seal the hair. To create a Demi Translucent Color, simply mix L’ANZA Healing Color thoroughly with Translucent Catalyst (1:1) before adding Demi Cream Developer (1:2). Deposit – the amount or quality of a haircolor’s ability to saturate the hair strand. Direct Pigment – also known as direct dyes, these are fully-oxidized color pigments which stain the Cuticle and CCM when depositing. These pigments are more permanent on porous hair, and less permanent on nonporous hair. L’ANZA Healing Color only contains direct pigment in its Red Mix Tone, and that direct pigment is responsible for the pink color that the Red Mix Tone has when it is squeezed from the tube. This helps increase the vibrancy. Double Process Blonde - a method of lightening which requires more than one step. For example, using L’ANZA Powder Decolorizer to first lighten the hair and then using a Demi Translucent formula to tone. Elasticity – the hair’s ability to stretch and return to shape. Existing Level – the level of darkness which the hair has due to previous coloring, sun exposure, etc. This may be the same as the Natural Level. Fill – the process where a color formula is applied prior to the Target Color formula, designed to replace missing Undertones for the purpose of tint-back procedures or gray coverage. Filling the hair will increase depth of tone, longevity of color, and prevent off-tone fading. L’ANZA recommends using a Healing Color Demi Permanent Color formula to fill. Flavonoids – phyto-compounds found in plants which protect the violet and blue pigments in the plant’s flowers from UV damage. Flavonoids from Echinacea and Cornflower are used in the Flower Shield Complex for the same purpose. Flower Shield Complex – L’ANZA’s exclusive formulation uses phyto-compounds from 7 color-specific flowers to provide full-spectrum haircolor protection. Carotenoids from yellow roses, calendula, and hibiscus, protect the yellow, orange and red spectrum. Flavonoids from Echinacea and cornflower protect the violet and blue spectrum. Chlorophyll from green orchids protects the green spectrum while White Gardenia compounds fill in any gaps. Flower Shield Complex can be found in L’ANZA Healing Color, Cream Developer, and Healing Colorcare to reduce fading. High Lift Blonde - indicated by a 100 in the name, these shades contain 2.5% ammonia and can lift up to 4 levels. L’ANZA High Lift Blondes are designed to be mixed with 2 parts 40 Volume Cream Developer for lifting or used in a Demi Translucent Color Formula for toning. Hydrogen Peroxide – an acid composed of Hydrogen and Oxygen which is instrumental in causing oxidation to occur in most oxidative haircolors. It is found in varying amounts in the L’ANZA Cream Developers. Keratin – the protein which makes up human hair, skin and nails. It is grouped into two categories: hard and soft. Soft Keratin makes up skin, while hard Keratin comprises hair and nails. Keratin Healing System – a L’ANZA exclusive technology which heals the hair from the inside out through the use of vital Keratin Amino Acids, minerals and moisture. Extra Ceramide-2 improves even color results. The Keratin Healing system is found in Healing Color shades and Cream Developers and in all L’ANZA Advanced Healing products. L’ANZA Cream Developer – a blend of Hydrogen Peroxide, conditioning agents and buffers (Keratin Healing System and Flower Shield Complex) suspended in a base to allow the ingredients to mix in a stable consistency. L’ANZA Cream Developer is mixed with L’ANZA Healing Color to create oxidation and development of color. It is the ONLY recommended developer when using L’ANZA Healing Color and is available in Demi (1.75%), 10 Volume (3%), 20 Volume (6%), 30 Volume (9%) and 40 Volume (12%). Level - the degree of lightness or darkness of the hair indicated by a number. L’ANZA uses a scale from 1 through 10 to describe level, with 1 representing black and 10 representing lightest blonde. Lifting – the chemical act of making hair lighter in level, either by tinting or decolorizing. MEA (Monoethanolamine) – a non-naturally occurring alkali which is used in place of ammonia in “ammonia-free” haircolor formulations. L’ANZA Healing Color does NOT contain MEA. Haircolors containing MEA require more precise mixing, are harder to shampoo from the hair, and are often less effective in formulas designed to lift and deposit. There is no evidence that MEA causes less damage to the hair than ammonia. Medulla – when present, the medulla can influence the overall sheen of the hair, but has no additional cosmetic effect. The medulla is not present in all human hair stands. Melanin – the natural pigments found in the cortex of human hair. Melanin consists of eumelanin (dark brown and black pigments) and phaeomelanin (warm pigments which appear as gold, copper or red hair). Mix Tones – L’ANZA Healing Color shades which are used to enhance tone or control warmth. Add up to 25% to the Target Color formula. These can also be used in higher concentrations, to create bold, fashion shades. Mix Tone shades include: Red Mix (R), Blue Mix (B), Gold Mix (G), Copper, Mix (C), Extra Ash Mix (X), and Violet Mix (V). Non-Direct Pigments – also known as “oxidative color” these pigments start as “Precursors”, or small undeveloped pigments. These Precursors are able to pass through the Cuticle and enter the Cortex where they are oxidized to create a color change. Non-Direct Pigments affect the natural Melanin in the hair and have little or no staining effect. L’ANZA Healing Haircolor uses Non-Direct Pigments to create long-lasting, vibrant haircolor. Nano Science – refers to the study and use of chemical and biological structures with dimensions ranging from 1-100 nanometers. A nanometer is extremely small, measuring only one billionth of a meter in size. Nano Science shrinks active ingredients to such small sizes that they can penetrate through the Cuticle and deeper into the Cortex of the hair. L’ANZA’s Nano Science 102 delivery system means that the ingredients measure 100nm, which is safe for cosmetic products. Natural Level – the level of darkness which the hair has naturally, as it grows from the scalp. Organic – a general term given to products produced according to certain standards, especially the use of only naturally-produced fertilizers and non-chemical means of pest control. Oxidation – The combination of a substance with Oxygen. In L’ANZA Healing Haircolor, oxidation takes place when the peroxide (made of Hydrogen and Oxygen) in the Cream Developer interacts with the color Precursors, causing the color molecules to grow and change into the Target Color. PCA – a category of compounds that are naturally-occurring humectants which L’ANZA uses in the Moisture Retain Complex to help the hair stay hydrated. Permanent HairColor – Non-Direct Pigments which oxidize in the Cortex and alter the hair’s natural Melanin. It can be used for lifting or darkening the hair and for traditional gray coverage. A line of demarcation will result when new growth occurs, due to the alteration of the natural Melanin. Any lifting or lightening procedure is considered Permanent Color. Simply add L’ANZA Healing Color to 10, 20, 30, or 40 Volume Cream Developer to create Permanent Color. pH – refers to the acidity or alkalinity of a water-based solution. It is represented by a scale from 0-14 with acidic solutions represented with numbers below 7 and alkaline solutions with numbers above 7. Distilled water is considered a neutral solution and is represented by the number 7. Human hair has a pH range from 4.5-5.5, and L’ANZA Healing Haircare supports this with products which support the hair’s proper pH. PPD (p-Paraphenylene Diamine) – a key component in permanent haircolor in many color brands, which is required for the formation of oxidative color pigments. Without PPD, haircolor would not be permanent, cover gray or lift. Most manufacturers of permanent haircolor, including L’ANZA, use PPD in their formulations. 84 85 Porosity – a term used to refer to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Equalization of the hair’s porosity is crucial for optimum color durability and moisture retention. L’ANZA equalizes the hair’s porosity through healing, with the Keratin Healing System. Porous hair absorbs haircolor quickly but rapidly loses it, while non-porous hair takes more time to absorb color but retains it well. Resistant hair is non-porous and may require careful thought in the formulation process. Precursors – undeveloped, oxidative color pigments, which are small and colorless. As they pass into the hair, they react with the oxidative ingredients found in the developer, and they change color and size to create a permanent color molecule. Primary Color – Universally, Primary Colors cannot be produced by mixing other colors together, and are the building blocks of all other colors in the rainbow. These foundational colors are red, yellow and blue. When mixed in the proper proportions, varying shades of neutral are achieved. Secondary Color – a mix of two Primary Colors resulting in shades of orange, violet and green. Semi Permanent Haircolor – non-oxidative haircolor which deposits color into the outer Cortex (often through the use of heat) with little or no effect on the natural Melanin. Due to the poor durability of this type of color and possibility of staining, L’ANZA Healing Color uses its Demi Translucent formulations in place of Semi Permanent Haircolor. Sodium Chloride-Free – refers to shampoos that do not contain Sodium Chloride. Commonly referred to as “table salt,” Sodium Chloride may be used as a thickening agent in some shampoos, but it is also known to accelerate the fading of haircolor or reverse the effects of keratin smoothing services. All of L’ANZA shampoos in the Advanced Healing Collection are Sodium Chloride-Free. Sulfates – refers to the sulfate-based surfactants in shampoos. These can be identified easily in the list of ingredients, since they all end the word “Sulfate” (such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate). Sulfate-Free – refers to shampoos that use non-sulfate surfactants. These provide lather and effective cleansing while being gentler on the scalp and more effective for retention of haircolor. Due to their official names, they are not as easily identified (such as Sodium Cocyl Isethionate or Sodium Lauryol Sarconsinate); however, they can be distinguished from sulfate-based surfactants as they will not end in the word “Sulfate.” All L’ANZA Shampoos in the Advanced Healing Collection are Sulfate-free. Super Lift Blonde - indicated by a 200 in the name, these shades contain 3.36% ammonia and can lift up to 5 levels. L’ANZA Super Lift Blondes are designed to be mixed with 2 parts 40 Volume Cream Developer for lifting. Surfactants – the lathering agents found in shampoos that provide the cleansing action. Various types of surfactants are often combined to create the immediate and lasting foaming action. Some surfactants are sulfate-based (such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), non-sulfate-based (such Sodium Cocyl Isethionate) or natural surfactants (such Gugo Bark Extract or Soap Bark Extract). Temporary Color – Derived from vegetable or mineral tints, this color attaches itself to the Cuticle and does not stain unless the hair is extremely damaged. Common types of Temporary Color would include color crayons, haircolor sprays, water rinses and color mousses. Tertiary Color – the result of mixing a Primary Color and a Secondary Color. For example, red (primary) + orange (secondary) = red-orange (tertiary). Texture – as a general term, hair colorists often use the word Texture to encompass the density, wave pattern and elasticity of hair. More specifically, Texture is used to describe whether hair is fine, medium or coarse. Tone – haircolor’s chromatic reflection which is indicated by a letter (For example, R for red). Also, tone can refer to the process of refining, controlling or enhancing warmth in pre-lightened hair through the use of L’ANZA Demi Translucent formulas. Translucent Color Catalyst – an additive which is used in L’ANZA Healing Color to neutralize the ammonia in the color in order to cause it to perform like an acid color. Translucent Color Catalyst is essential in making sheer formulations which are ideal for toning, sealing, corrective color and adding slight tonal change with incredible shine. Undertone – also called “contributing pigment”, Undertone is the term used for the color which is exposed during the lifting process. Undertone influences the color result and needs to be considered for enhancement or control of that tone. Undertones affect many areas which are important to the colorist including, Gray Coverage, Filling, and Corrective Coloring. Volume – the scientific definition to explain the amount of Oxygen produced as Hydrogen Peroxide decomposes. 1 Volume of Hydrogen Peroxide produces 20 Volumes of Oxygen. Distributed by © DAVEXLABS LLC Santa Monica, CA 90401 USA L’ANZA HEALING COLOR HOTLINE AT (888) 831-5325 (USA/WORLDWIDE) R e p r e s e n t e d b y D AVEXL A B S L L C | C o l nbr o o k , B e r skshi r e S L 3 0 Q T, U K | w w w. l a nz a . co m | #LHC027
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