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Lumber
Smith
Assembly Manual
If you are having problems assembling the saw
and need assistance, please contact us at:
804-577-7398
[email protected]
Step 1 – Safety
Carefully read the Owners Manual. As with all machinery, there are certain
hazards involved with the operation of this product.
The combination to the lock on the motor mount can be found in the safety
instructions portion of the owners manual.
Step 2 – Lay out your Parts
Open all of the packaging and lay out the parts.
Assembling the sawmill will take 2-3 hours.
Skipping steps will make it harder.
Wear gloves and eye protection when handling the blade.
Step 3 – Gather your Tools
Although other tools may make assembling the sawmill easier, you only need:
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7/16” wrench
1/2” wrench
9/16” wrench
5/32” hex key (provided)
3/16” hex key (provided)
Torpedo level (provided)
Pliers
Hammer
Step 4 – Attaching the Wheels
Place a 3/4” washer on all four axles, followed by the black plastic wheel,
another washer, and finally the hitch pin.
Step 5 – Installing the Locking Handles
The locking handles are used to clamp the stainless steel locking plates to the
legs during operation.
Note how the head of the bolt is held captive by the aluminum casting and the
galvanized tubing holds the handle away from the locking plate.
Step 6 – Installing the Legs
Loosen the locking handles and slide the legs into the channel on the cast
aluminum frame. It may be necessary to slack the four 5/16-18 bolts on the
locking plates to provide clearance. Tighten the locking handles so the saw
frame is held on the legs via friction.
Notice the orientation of the legs. There is a right and a left leg and the wheels
are on the outside of the sawmill.
Step 7 – Installing the Lift Assembly
The lift assembly allows you to raise and lower the sawmill via threaded rod and
a hand crank. This makes it easy to determine how far the blade has advanced.
First, place the two cast aluminum lift caps in the top of the square tubing.
Notice how the hole lines up with the cutout in the locking plate.
Next, loosen the locking handles and raise the saw frame to within
approximately 2 inches of the bottom of the lift caps. Tighten the locking
handles.
Thread the black plastic nuts approximately 4.5” from the end of the threaded
rod.
Step 7 – Installing the Lift Assembly
Insert the threaded rod from underneath the locking plate and up through the lift
cap. Notice how the plastic nut fits tightly between the two tines on the locking
plate. Bend the tines with a pair of pliers so the nut is held tightly if there is
excessive slop.
Place the thin black plastic washer on the lift cap and then place the lift handle
on the threaded rod. Make sure it is fully seated and tighten the set screw.
Hold the black plastic nut in
the tines of the locking plate
and crank out the slack with
the lift handles.
Now you can loosen the
locking handles without the
saw frame crashing down to
the ground.
Step 8 – Lubricating the Motor
See the lubrication requirements in the Honda owners manual. Running the
motor without oil in the crank case and gearbox will result in severe damage.
Woodwrights LLC is not responsible for damage due to insufficient lubrication.
Step 8 – Installing the Motor Mount
Remove the nut and two washers from the four 3/8-16 bolts and insert them
through the holes in the cast aluminum saw frame. Notice how the casting holds
the heads of the bolts captive.
On the other side of the casting, place the four black plastic washers over the
bolts.
Step 8 – Installing the Motor Mount
Carefully place the motor mount over the four bolts. Place the steel washers and
nuts on the bolts and snug them down. Next, loosen the four nuts approximately
1/8 of a turn. The motor mount MUST be able to slide left and right with firm
finger pressure for the saw to function properly.
The motor mount must be able to slide left and right with firm finger pressure.
Step 8 – Installing the Motor Mount
Notice the slot pattern on the bottom surface of the motor mount and how the
motor will pivot on the top right bolt. This will be used to adjust the pitch of the
drive wheel later.
Place the motor on the motor
mount and install the four
5/16-18 bolts and washers.
Just as before, don't fully tighten
the bolts. The motor will need to
be pivoted later to adjust how
the blade tracks on the wheels.
Step 9 – Installing the Yoke
Remove the two washers, tubing, and nut from the yoke.
Insert the threaded rod through the hole in the frame and slip the bearing over
the motor's shaft.
Install the washers, tubing, and nut on the
outside of the frame.
Tightening the nut will pull the motor and
motor mount to the left, thus tensioning the
blade. That is why it is critical the motor
mount be able to slide on the frame.
Step 10 – Installing the Drive Wheel
Place Loctite 609 in the keyway and all around the shaft.
Place the drive wheel on the shaft with the machined side of the hub out.
Rotate the drive wheel a few times to distribute the Loctite around the shaft.
Install the key into the keyway and
overhang the drive wheel on the
shaft approximately 1/8”
Tighten the three setscrews. Don't
forget the one in the back!
Step 11 – Installing the Motor Pivot Bolt
Notice how the motor pivots in relation to the cast aluminum saw frame. This is
how the pitch of the drive wheel is adjusted. Changing the pitch of the drive
wheel changes how the blade tracks on the wheels.
Pivoted Fully Counter Clockwise
Pivoted Fully Clockwise
Place the 1/4-20 x 5” bolt through the hole
in the side of the motor mount.
Looking down on the top of the motor,
rotate it fully counter clockwise.
Thread the nut up the bolt until it is held
captive by the notch in the motor mount.
Place the end of the bolt near the oil drain
plug so that it pushes on the motor.
The purpose of this bolt is to hold the
motor's position until the four mounting
bolts can be fully tightened.
Step 12 – Putting on the Blade
Wear gloves when handling the blade! The teeth are very sharp. Use caution
when installing the blade, it is like a large spring and can spring off of the
wheels. Tie a piece of rope around the saw frame to prevent the blade from
hitting your face. Wear safety glasses.
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4
5
1. Loosen the nut on the yoke so the motor mount may slide freely.
2. Push the motor, motor mount, and drive wheel as far to the left as
possible.
3. Ensure the blade guides will not interfere with the blade. Loosen and
move them up out of the way if they do.
4. Ensure the back bearings will not interfere with the blade. Loosen and
move them to the bottom of the slot if they do.
5. Make sure the teeth on the blade are cutting towards the drive wheel.
Step 13 – Tensioning the Blade
Proper tension must be put on the blade for the saw to operate effectively.
Using the included tie wire,
tie a gallon (3.785 liters)
of water to the center of the
blade.
Place the tension gauge on
top of the blade.
Notice how the gallon of
water pulls the blade away
from the center of the
gauge.
This blade does not have
enough tension.
If the blade is too loose, tighten the nut on
the yoke with a 1/2” wrench.
Frequently check the tension with the gauge.
If the gauge touches only near the center, the blade is over tensioned. Reduce
tension by loosening the nut on the yoke with a 1/2” wrench.
The blade is properly tensioned when the gauge touches the blade evenly.
Remove the jug of water.
Step 13 – Adjusting the Wheels Vertically
The drive and idle wheels need to be in the same plane for the blade to track
properly. Another way to put it is that the axles for the drive and idle wheels must
be parallel.
This is complicated by the fact that the cast aluminum saw frame bows slightly
when the blade is tensioned. Therefore it is critical that this step is done after the
blade is properly tensioned.
Screw the two aluminum pieces to the 2x4 with
the included screws to fashion a jig.
Place it on a flat surface and ensure it does not
rock.
The accuracy of this jig will determine the
accuracy of your saw.
Place the jig on the drive
wheel so that it touches
both the top and bottom
edges of the wheel.
Step 13 – Adjusting the Wheels Vertically
A
Look at the idle wheel side and note where the
jig touches the wheel.
If it touches at point A and not at point B,
tighten bolt 1.
If it touches at point B and not at point A,
loosen bolt 1.
B
The goal is to have the jig touch the wheels at
all four points.
Bolt 1
Step 14 – Adjusting the Wheels Horizontally
D
Use the long jig to
check the wheel's
alignment horizontally.
C
Place the jig so that
points A and B touch
the drive wheel.
B
Points C and D should
not touch anything at
this time.
A
Begin to loosen the
motor pivot bolt with a
7/16” wrench.
This will allow the motor
to pivot clockwise as
viewed from the top.
Frequently check with
the horizontal
adjustment jig until
point C touches.
Do not allow the 1/4-20
bolt to “walk” to the
bottom of the motor and
slip off.
It is almost impossible to tighten the 1/4-20 bolt and force the motor
counterclockwise, so don't let the motor pivot too far!
Step 14 – Adjusting the Wheels Horizontally
If the jig hits point D before point C, it will be necessary to tighten Nut 1 and
continue loosening the motor pivot bolt until the jig touches point C.
Now that points A, B, and C are in alignment, it's time to bring point D into
alignment. Loosen Nut 1 to allow the idle wheel plate to swing outward closer to
the jig. If it jams, tap it with a block of wood until the washer is against the frame.
Both wheels should now be in the same plane.
Nut 2
Nut 1
Nut 2 should never be adjusted. The nut should be left flush with the end of the
bolt.
Nut 1 is delivered from the factory with four threads showing past the end of the
nut. That's a safe place to start if you need to redo the adjustment process.
Step 15 – Testing the Blade Tracking
If you are satisfied the wheels are aligned
vertically and horizontally as well as
possible, tighten down the four 5/16-18
motor mounting bolts. DO NOT run the
saw without tightening these bolts!
After the motor mounting bolts are
tightened, turn the switch off and
disconnect the spark plug.
Pull the starting cord half a
dozen times to advance the
blade.
On a properly adjusted saw, the
gullet of the blade will ride just off
of the wheels.
Loosening Nut 1 will cause the
blade to move forward, showing
more teeth. Tightening it will do
the reverse. Pull the starting cord
after each small adjustment.
Step 16 – Adjusting the Pitch of the Blade
At this point the blade should be properly tensioned and the blade tracks on the
wheels. Now it's time to adjust the pitch of the blade so that it will not have a
tendency to dive or climb in the cut.
Place the included torpedo level
on the leg of the saw.
Notice how the bubble is touching
the first line on the right. That is
because the ground isn't perfectly
level.
Make a note of the bubble's
position and place it on the blade
near the drive wheel.
Make sure the level is on a raker
tooth or one that is bent
downwards. Otherwise the tooth
will affect the level's reading.
The bubble is centered so the
blade's pitch should be adjusted
until the bubble touches the first
line.
Loosen the plate holding the
brass blade guide.
Use firm finger pressure to push the
guide against the blade.
Use the provided hex key to rotate the
blade guide until the bubble matches
where it was when the torpedo level was
on the leg.
Tighten the plate and move the level near
the idle wheel. Repeat the process for the
idle wheel side blade guide.
Step 17 – Adjusting the Blade Back Bearings
As you cut, the log will push the blade backwards. The blade back bearings
counteract this force reducing the stress on the idle wheel bearings and motor
shaft.
Use a 9/16” wrench and provided
hex key to loosen the nut on the
back of the saw.
Slide the entire back bearing
assembly in the slot as high as
possible.
Do not raise the assembly so high
that the blade rubs against the nut
on the inside.
Use the hex key to adjust the
bearing's position until there's a
business card width between the
blade and the bearing.
Tighten the nut on the back side to
lock the assembly in place.
Repeat this process for the other
back bearing assembly.
Step 18 – Installing the Drip Kit
The drip kit helps cool the blade, reduce sap and pitch buildup, and improve
cutting speed. The blade wipe oils the blade to remove debris and reduce
rusting.
Saturate the felt wipe in oil
and fill the plastic
container with oil.
Mount the blade wipe and
oil reservoir on the
bracket.
It my bend the blade
upwards a bit at first, but it
will soon be trimmed to
the right size.
Strap the canvas bag to the saw frame and
thread the tubing through the hole. Position it
just above the blade on the inside.
Fill the rubber bladder with water and adjust
the valve so that it drips 2-3 times per second.
Step 18 – Put on the Cover
Put on the cover, read the safety manual again, and go cut some lumber!