Smoot
hing & St
raightening
SERVICES
Long-lasting styling solutions
L’Oréal Professionnel offers a
range of long-lasting smoothing
and straightening services
which alter the structure of the
hair to achieve a particular style.
These services not only offer your clients long-lasting
style results, but also the most innovative technologies
which provide optimum care and condition for the hair
so that the final result is glossy, silky and beautifully
smooth or straight.
This technical guide is designed to provide you with
all the information to create long-lasting smooth and
straight hair for your clients.
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Diagnostic
During the consultation with your client it is
important to ask the right questions. The hair type
of the client and the effect they are looking for
will determine what smoothing or straightening
service you will use for their hair. Use this
diagnostic tool to help you find the right product
for your client’s needs.
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What result does the client want to achieve?
Ultra
Straight
Straight, with
natural movement
Less volume and
looser curls
X-TENSO®
CERA THERMIC
X-TENSO®
MOISTURIST™
X-TENSO®
MOISTURIST™
Long-lasting
perfectly straight result
Satin Smoothing
Technique
Long-lasting naturally
smooth effect
Curl Calming
Technique
De-volumises tight
curls into softer waves
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X-Tenso® Cera Thermic
X-Tenso® Cera Thermic
The definitive long-lasting straightening
service for beautifully silky straight hair.
Transforms even the most unruly hair
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Science & Technology
The Steps
Pre-Treatment Protection
STEP 1: DIAGNOSIS
Cera thermic Initialiser
The pre-treatment which contains Ionène G provides
protection to the hair during the straightening operation.
• Examine the scalp and check the skin is free of damage or flakiness
• Check the quality of the hair from roots to ends, to make sure it is in good
condition before carrying out this service – refer to the table below
• Consult the client on the past history of their hair and use the table below to
choose the appropriate cream for their hair type
• If in any doubt, carry out a test meche, following the directions on the next
page. If the hair is damaged or broken after the test, do not continue with
the application
• There are 2 cream strengths:
Reduction Phase
At the time of reduction, the smoothing
cream separates the disulphide bonds.
Cera thermic Straightening Creams
With patented Ceramide for enhanced
straightening of the hair.
Straightening Phase
During this phase, the Ceramide in the straightening
cream penetrates the hair and strengthens the
realignment.
Natural cream
For natural and natural resistant hair
Sensitised cream
For sensitised hair including coloured hair in good condition
CREAM SELECTION
HAIR TYPE
X-Tenso® Cera
thermic Natural
X-Tenso® Cera
thermic Sensitised
Natural
YES
YES
Natural resistant
YES
YES
Sensitised hair or coloured hair
in good condition
NO
YES
TEST MECHE
TEST MECHE
Pre-lightened hair
NO
NO
Highlighted with Hi Lift
or Pre-Lightener
NO
NO
Permed/Texturised hair
NO
YES
Hair treated with henna or
metallic salts
NO
NO
Hair relaxed with a Hydroxide
product
NO
NO
Fixing Phase
During neutralisation, disulphide bonds reform and
the hair is fixed into the new shape.
Cera thermic Fixing Lotion
Contains cationic polymers to smooth and fix the
hair in its final position.
Cera thermic Finaliser (Conditioner)
With Ceramide and Candellila wax. Softens and helps
detangle for silky smooth hair.
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Previously straightened hair
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How to carry out a test meche
STEP 2: PREPARATION
• Isolate a small 2cm x 2cm section
• Shampoo using L’Oréal Professionnel Optimiseur
Pré-Forme shampoo and towel-dry the hair
• Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Straightening Cream suitable for the hair
type to the section. Do not cover. Allow to develop for the recommended
development time
• Rinse thoroughly and blast dry to 80%
• Apply the complete dose of X-Tenso® Cera thermic
Initialiser evenly through all sections of the hair
• Straighten with irons pre-heated to 180°C
• Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Fixing Lotion for 5 minutes.
Reapply for a further 5 minutes
• Rinse thoroughly for 3 minutes
• Check results. If the hair is damaged or broken after the test,
do not continue with the application
NB: Test meche can be carried out before or on the day of the
client’s appointment.
See Pages 32-35 for all Health and Safety Instructions.
STEP 3: APPLICATION
Always wear suitable gloves during mixing,
application and removal of the product from the hair.
• Place approximately half a tube of your chosen
Straightening Cream into a non-metallic bowl
• Divide the hair into 4 sections
• Starting at the nape area, apply the X-Tenso® Cera
thermic Straightening Cream with a brush 1cm away
from the scalp, meche by meche, to the mid-lengths
and ends of the hair
• Apply rapidly, but with care. Repeat process on
other meches
• Do not allow the product to touch the scalp
• Using your fingers, smooth the hair meche by meche
to ensure the hair remains straight
• In total, the application should take no longer than
5 minutes
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STEP 4: DEVELOPMENT
STEP 5: APPLYING STRAIGHTENING IRONS
• Develop at room temperature:
Natural cream: 10 to 30 minutes
Sensitised cream: 5 to 20 minutes
• Pre-heat the straightening irons to 180°C
• To check required straightening, test regularly throughout
development time using the knot test. (see below)
• Rinse thoroughly for 5 minutes. Then using a dryer,
blast dry until hair is 80% dry
• Starting at the nape, isolate one fine meche of hair.
As a guide you should be able to see through
the meche
• Beginning 1cm from the roots, smooth the hair with
the straightening irons, allowing them to slowly glide
along the length of the hair to the very ends in one
continuous movement
KNOT TEST
• Repeat 2 times on each meche until all of the hair
is straight and smooth
CHECK THE HAIR REGULARLY DURING THE DEVELOPMENT TIME USING
THE KNOT TEST AS A GUIDE.
• Do not rinse
1. Isolate a
meche of hair
about 1mm thick
(6 to 10 hairs)
and test elasticity
every 5 minutes.
2. Make a knot
with the meche
of hair in the
most sensitised
area.
NB: To obtain the optimum result it is very
important to take very fine sections of hair
when applying the straightening irons.
STEP 6: APPLYING NEUTRALISER
• Apply 80ml of X-Tenso® Cera thermic Fixing Lotion
section by section to dry hair. Leave for 5 minutes
3. Gently tighten
the knot. Hold
knot between 2
hands and try
to undo it by
pushing on the
2 ends of the
meche.
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4. If the knot
loosens, leave
the straightening
cream on longer
and redo the
test after 5
minutes. If the
knot holds firm, development is over
and the hair is straightened enough.
Undo the knot. Rinse thoroughly (for
approx 5 minutes) to eliminate all
traces of cream. With a dryer, blast
dry the hair until 80% dry.
• Reapply a further 40ml of Fixing Lotion to the hair
and leave for 5 minutes
STEP 7: APPLYING FINALISER
• Rinse for 3 minutes, then gently towel-dry and apply
X-Tenso® Cera thermic Finaliser tube to the whole
head. Leave for 3 minutes, then rinse
• Style without using excessive heat or tension to
the hair
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Tips
1. Previously straightened hair?
5. Remember the meche test
Remember that X-Tenso® Cera thermic can be used on hair that has already
been straightened, providing the technology of the previous process was a
thio product e.g. X-Tenso® Cera thermic or X-Tenso® Moisturist . DO NOT
make an application to hair previously treated with an alkaline product.
Isolate a small 2cm x 2cm section with Easi Meche Ultra or high quality foils.
Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Straightening Cream suitable for the hair type to
the section (do not cover). Allow to develop. Rinse thoroughly and blast dry to
80%. Straighten with irons pre-heated to 180°C. Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic
Fixing Lotion for 5 minutes. Reapply for 5 minutes then rinse thoroughly for 3
minutes and check results (see page 22).
TM
If you are unsure carry out a test meche. If you are applying X-Tenso® Cera
thermic to hair previously treated with a thio product (X-Tenso® Cera thermic /
X-Tenso® Moisturist ) remember to choose the cream for sensitised hair.
TM
6. The importance of the knot test
2. Highlighted hair?
If the highlights are concentrated in one area, isolate the area using Easi
Meche Ultra or high quality foils (use exclusively ref Soft Alloy 8079, 20µm or
Soft Alloy 1200 18µm), then apply the X-Tenso® Cera thermic service. If the
highlights are spread over the entire head of hair, it is not advisable to make
an application.
3. How often to renew the service?
The ultimate straightening effect on the hair is permanent. You can carry out
a regrowth application when there is a minimum 7-8cm of new hair growth.
On average, the service is renewed every 6-8 months.
4. Reapply?
You can reapply X-Tenso® Cera thermic if already used, if the previously
treated lengths need to be straightened again. Use the chosen cream from
the client’s consultation on the regrowth and the Sensitised Cream on the
already treated lengths, or use the same strength cream on regrowth and
draw it out onto the lengths, but with a reduced development time. Perform
the knot test and adjust the development time for each case.
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The knot test will give you a guide as to the degree of elasticity remaining in the
hair. You are aiming to relax the natural spring of the hair – if the knot continues
to open the hair is not fully processed (see page 24).
7. Hair sensitivity
If a client has uneven degrees of sensitivity throughout their hair, choose the
X-Tenso® Cera thermic Straightening Cream for sensitised hair and begin your
application in the least sensitised area, which is often on the underneath of the
hair. Always carry out the knot test in the most sensitised area of the hair.
8. Development times
There is not an exact development time because curly, rebellious hair by its nature
has varying degrees of elasticity; no one head of hair is the same. The variable
development time will allow you to achieve optimum results for all clients.
If you have any other questions, please contact the
L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on: 0800 0304 034
or for ROI: 1800 535 616
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Aftercare and Health & Safety
Aftercare and
Health & Safety
Aftercare
As part of the X-Tenso® Moisturist and X-Tenso® Cera thermic service, suggest
a home care programme for the client, recommending série expert, tecni.art
and texture expert products which have been designed to smooth and nourish
texturised hair.
TM
liss ultime masque
• Smoothing masque for
unmanageable hair
liss ultime serum
• Shine perfecting serum
liss ultime smoothing
night treatment
• Smoothing night
treatment for
unmanageable hair
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hairmix sublime
shine serum
• Shine serum for dry hair
• Nourishes and tames
thirsty, frizzy hair, leaving
it shiny and manageable
liss control cream
• Smoothing gel cream
• A 24-hour frizz tamer,
this soft cream controls
and smoothes frizzy,
rebellious hair, with a
natural shine
liss control + serum
• Intense control
smoothing serum
• Gives 24-hour anti-frizz
protection, softness
and natural shine to
any style
fine hair
hairmix supreme
smooth cream
• Smoothing cream for
thirsty and rebellious
hair
• Nutrition, shine and
heat protection with
a smoothing effect
product recommendations
medium hair
liss ultime shampoo
• Smoothing shampoo for
unmanageable hair
product recommendations
thick hair
product recommendations
smooth essence
• Flawlessly featherweight
smoothing cream with
anti-humidity protection.
Benefit: Smoothes and
controls fine hair
smooth velours
• Supreme blow-dry milk
with heat protection.
Benefit: Leaves
hair soft, supple and
polished
smooth ultime
• Dream cream for taming
thick, rebellious hair.
Benefit: Reduces
volume and gives longlasting anti-humidity
protection
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Health & Safety
Follow these Health & Safety instructions when carrying out an X-Tenso® Cera
thermic or X-Tenso® Moisturist service.
X-Tenso® Cera thermic
TM
• Avoid contact of products with the skin or eyes. Rinse immediately with water
if the product comes into contact with them
• Do not apply to very sensitised hair, pre-lightened hair or hair coloured using
30 volume and above
• Follow directions carefully
• Do not apply the product to hair straightened with an alkaline or hydroxide
straightener
• Do not apply if the scalp is irritated, or if your client has previously
experienced sensitivity/an allergic reaction to this type of product
• Do not use X-Tenso® Cera thermic on hair that has been previously relaxed/
straightened with a relaxing cream containing SODIUM HYDROXIDE (‘lye’)
• Wear suitable gloves during mixing, application and removal of the
product from the hair
• Do not use on hair relaxed with a product (‘non-lye’) but containing either
POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE (potash), or LITHIUM HYDROXIDE (lithine), or
GUANIDINE CARBONATE
• Keep out of the reach of children
• For professional use only
X-Tenso® Moisturist
TM
• Do not apply to very sensitised hair, pre-lightened hair, hair with more than
20% highlights or hair coloured using 30 volume and above
• Do not use on the same day as a permanent oxidation process. However,
an application of Symbio, Richesse de Diacolor or Diacolor Gelée can be
made with reduced development time of 5 minutes
• Do not use X-Tenso® Moisturist on hair that has been previously relaxed/
straightened with a relaxing cream containing SODIUM HYDROXIDE (‘lye’)
TM
• Do not use on hair relaxed with a product (‘non-lye’) containing either
POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE (potash), or LITHIUM HYDROXIDE (lithine), or
GUANIDINE CARBONATE
If you have any other questions, please contact the
L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on: 0800 0304 034
or for ROI: 1800 535 616
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Colour Service after X-Tenso® Moisturist
TM
When colouring after an X-Tenso® MoisturistTM service using Symbio, Diacolor Gelée or
Richesse de Diacolor follow the guidelines below:
At L’Oréal Professionnel, our aim is to work in partnership with you to create beautiful
hair, whilst ensuring at all times the absolute safety of you, your staff and all your clients.
We invest tirelessly in product development to create new innovative products with
safety always in mind. These products, when used at all times according to the safety
instructions, alongside recommended best practice in your salon, will help ensure not
only best results, but the safest environment for everyone.
L’Oréal Professionnel has designed a protocol which will enable you to manage your
clients’ colour experience and determine the need to carry out a skin allergy test.
The protocol follows a 3-step consultation with your colour client, to accompany the
application of a L’Oréal Professionnel coloration:
• Step 1: Professional Consultation
• Step 2: How to carry out a skin allergy test
• Step 3: How to carry out a colour application
Refer to your health and safety booklet for more information.
Please note: If you do not follow the 3-step professional safety consultation then the
basic skin allergy test rules still apply. A SKIN ALLERGY TEST must be done 48
hours before each application.
Hair colorants can cause an allergic reaction, which in certain rare cases
may be severe for you and your client. It is therefore essential to follow
these precautions:
How to carry out a skin allergy test:
Remove any earrings. Using a cotton bud, apply a little of the unmixed colorant
product you intend to use behind the ear. Apply sufficient product to cover 1cm2.
Re-apply 2 or 3 times allowing it to dry between each application. Leave for 48 hours
without washing, covering or touching.
If during the course of this period you or your client notice any abnormal reaction such
as intense itching, redness or swelling in or around the test area DO NOT APPLY
THE COLORANT. Recommend that your client seeks medical advice before any
further colour applications are made.
Furthermore, when using technical products and in cases of prolonged
exposure to water:
• Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product
• Protect and care for dry sensitive hands with L’Oréal Professionnel
prosensitive cream
After application:
For technical products, discard any left-over mixtures immediately. They cannot be
used again.
For safe storage and disposal of waste see the COSHH booklet and L’Oréal
Professionnel product guide. For a copy, call Customer Services on 0845 6000 122
or contact the Hairdressing & Beauty Suppliers Association on 01707 649499.
• Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of
the product.
• DO NOT USE a hair colorant product if:
Your client has previously experienced a reaction to hair colorants.
Your client has a sensitive, itchy or damaged scalp.
• Check for tattoos and permanent make-up
Black Henna Tattoos: Ask your client if he/she has ever had, even once, a black henna
tattoo as he/she may have become allergic without realising it. Do not use this product
unless you have done the skin allergy test 48 hours before use.
• If your client has had an allergic reaction to any type of skin tattoo including henna or permanent make-up, the risk of allergy may be greater
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For further information about L’Oréal Professionnel’s Smoothing and Straightening
Services please contact The L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on:
UK: 0800 0304 034
ROI: 1800 535 616