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New Silicone Technologies for
Ethnic Hair Care
Beth Johnson
Feifei Lin
Todd Ostergaard,
Tina Leaym
Julie DeCaire
Kim Quackenbush
Dow Corning Corporation,
Midland, Michigan
H
The Solution for Long-Lasting
Shine
Amino-functional silicones are well
known in the hair care industry for their
ability to improve deposition on negatively charged hair (2). A patented silicone resin (3,4) with the INCI name
aminopropyl phenyl trimethiconea contains both amino and phenyl functional
groups. The phenyl group imparts shine
due to its high refractive index, and the
liquid nature of the resin provides good
film-forming capabilities to help ensure
efficacy once it is delivered onto the
hair. For formulation into both oil- and
water-based products, the resin is easily
emulsified. Furthermore, because it is
able to withstand a high pH environment, the silicone resin can be incorporated into relaxers and permanent wave
formulations.
5
4
3
2
1
0
Initial
Untreated
1 Day
Age of Tresses
Phenyl Trimethicone
1 Week
Amino Phenyl Trimethicone
Figure 1. Long-lasting shine results on slightly bleached hair, using Garner micro-TRIgloss meter shine measurements.
No. of panalists who choose Tress as
having more shine
Soft feel, conditioning effects and shine
remain key attributes to be obtained
from ethnic hair care products, particularly for those who prefer to straighten
or color their hair. This article focuses
specifically on the needs of AfricanAmerican hair and on new silicone technologies that can help formulators create
next-generation products that offer multifunctional solutions for consumers.
6
Gloss Meter Readings
(GU - gloss units)
air care thrives on innovative technology, allowing consumers to revel
in dramatic styling to fit today's trends,
while also tapping a range of products
designed for the distinctive hair structures and grooming techniques of various ethnic and regional populations.
Silicones have played a major role in
product development (1), partly due to
their ability as conditioning agents for
softness and manageability, but also
because they impart shine. Superior
conditioning properties are particularly
important to African-American hair,
with its tighter curls and coarser texture
than Caucasian hair, as well as its thinner, more variable and elliptical diameter. Because African-American hair
also tends to tangle, knot and break
easily, mechanical forces such as combing can easily damage the fragile hair,
and chemical treatments such as relaxers
and colorants compound these effects.
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
Initial
1 day
Tress with 2% Amino Phenyl Trimethicone
1 Week
Untreated Frizzy Hair Tress
Figure 2. Results of test with shine box panel comparing untreated frizzy hair tress and
tress treated with amino phenyl silicone resin, one day after treatment. (Significant
difference = 0.01)
Evaluation was done on a variety of
hair tress samples including European
slightly bleached blonde, European
virgin brown, frizzyb and Oriental hair.
Hair tresses were treated with 2 percent
by weight amino phenyl trimethicone
in cyclopentasiloxane. For shine testing, a sample tress was placed in a dip
bath of the solution for 30 seconds, the
excess was removed by pulling the
tress through two fingers, and the tress
was dried with a blow dryer while
combing. Following application, shine
evaluations were conducted using either
a gloss meter or sensory panel based
on an evaluation technique developed
by Dow Corning (5). Untreated tresses
were tested as benchmarks. Evaluations
were performed immediately after treatment, and again one day and one week
a Dow Corning® 2-2078 Fluid, also referred to here as amino phenyl trimethicone
b An alternative to African-American hair, given this designation by its supplier, International Hair
c Dow Corning® 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid
following treatment. The results in
Figures 1 and 2 clearly show that the
resin provides a long-lasting shine benefit for European slightly bleached
blond and frizzy hair, respectively.
Similar results were observed with
Oriental hair. Figure 1 also shows that
the amino phenyl trimethicone gives
improved shine performance over phenyl trimethiconec, a silicone fluid commonly incorporated in hair care products to claim shine benefits.
Formulation 1 is an example of a prototype pomade formulation that incorporates the amino phenyl trimethicone.
This hair dressing and the same formulation without amino phenyl silicone were used to treat frizzy hair
tresses. Figure 3 shows the shine ben-
Formulation 1
Golden Hair Dressing
Ingredient
Wt. % Trade Name/Supplier
Phase A
1. Aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone 2.0
2. Isopropyl myristate
4.0
Phase B
3. C30-45 alkyl methicone
3.5
Phase C
4. Petrolatum
41.0
5. Microcrystalline wax
6.5
6. Lanolin
7. Mineral oil
13.0
30.0
Dow Corning® 2-2078 Fluid
Stepan IPM/Stepan
Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax
White Protopet 1S/Witco Corporation
Microcrystalline Wax White
1275/Frank B Ross Co.
Lanolin USP/Fisher Chemical Co.
Klearol White Mineral Oil/Crompton
No. of panalists who choose Tress
as having more shine
Procedure: Combine ingredients of Phase A. Add Phase B to Phase A and heat, mixing gently until
melted. Add ingredients of Phase C. Heat to 80°C until all ingredients are melted. Mix until uniform.
Remove from heat and continue mixing while cooling to room temperature.
14
12
10
8
Enhanced Straightening Benefits
An additional benefit of the amino phenyl resin is enhanced hair straightening.
The resin can be added to a hair relaxer
for ethnic hair and may also be a good
candidate for Asian consumers who
prefer to wear their hair perfectly
straight. Figure 4 shows the straightening benefit on a frizzy hair tress when
adding the silicone resin to a commercial lye relaxer, compared to a commercial relaxer without resin.
Tests also have shown that the amino
phenyl silicone resin is not degraded by
an alkaline solution at 50°C for at least
3 weeks. This stability allows the silicone
resin to be formulated into relaxers,
permanent wave products, colorants and
hair fixatives that are highly alkaline,
even as high as pH 12 to pH 14.
Focus on Conditioning
6
4
2
0
efits imparted by the dressing containing amino phenyl silicone compared
to the control dressing.
Hair dressing w/ amino phenyl
trimethicone
Hair dressing w/o amino phenyl
trimethicone
Treatment on Frizzy Hair
Figure 3. Results of test with shine box panel comparing hair dressing with and without
amino phenyl trimethicone on frizzy hair. (Significant difference = 0.30)
Commercial Relaxer
with Silicone Resin
Commercial Relaxer
Figure 4. Straightening benefit using the amino phenyl silicone resin on frizzy hair. Left:
frizzy tress treated with a commercial lye relaxer containing the silicone resin. Right:
tress treated with the same commercial relaxer without silicone.
d Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion
While the new silicone resin focuses
on styling and maintenance by enhancing shine and straightening, another
development in silicone technology can
be used to improve hair softness and
conditioning. Formulated in leave-on
and rinse-off conditioners, an emulsion
based on a newly patented silicone quaternary polymer (6) delivers superior
hair softness without greasiness. Its conditioning effects can also be documented
by reduced wet and dry combing forces.
Silicone quaternium-16 (and) undeceth-11 (and) butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5d is a microemulsion of a quaternized amino-functional silicone
polymer. Because of their positive
charge, quaternary ammonium functional silicones are useful in treating
materials and surfaces that are primarily negatively charged, specifically
hair fibers in hair care applications,
and also fibers associated with textile
applications. The quaternary ammonium functionality makes possible ionic
interactions that are the basis of many
useful properties, including increase
in hydrophilic character, ability to act
as a thickener, and improved ability
to aid in the deposition of other mate-
% Reduction of Combining Force
evaluated in several prototype formulations that were compared with various
off-the-shelf hair care products. Figure
5 illustrates the improved conditioning
effects of the emulsion when evaluated
on frizzy hair. The quaternary ammonium silicone has also been tested on
other hair types, showing similar superior conditioning benefits.
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
Conclusions
0
-10
Control Conditioner
w/out Silicone
Commercial
Conditioner #1
Commercial
Conditioner #2
Conditioner
w/emulsion
(1% active Si)
Conditioner
w/emulsion
(2% active Si)
Formulation Tested
Wet Combing
Dry Combing
Figure 5. Conditioning benefit of silicone quaternary emulsion on frizzy hair, based on
Instron conditioning evaluation of reduction in combing force.
rials such as coatings and conditioning
agents. The amino silicone nature of
this material also provides excellent
wet and dry combing benefits. Because it is delivered as an emulsion,
the quaternized silicone is easy to
incorporate into water-based hair care
formulations.
Formulation 2 is an example of a prototype rinse-off conditioner containing
the new silicone quaternary emulsion.
Silicones are well known in the hair
care industry for providing excellent
wet and dry conditioning benefits. The
silicone quaternary emulsion has been
Formulation 2
Rinse-Off Conditioner
Ingredient
Wt. %
Phase A
1. Deionized water
to 100.00
2. Hydroxyethyl cellulose
1.50
3. Cetrimonium chloride
0.70
Chemicals Inc.
Phase B
4. Cetearyl alcohol
4.00
5. Glyceryl stearate (and)
1.00
PEG 100 stearate
Phase C
6. Propylene glycol
4.00
Chemical Co.
7. Glycerin
4.00
Phase D
8. Hydrolyzed wheat gluten
1.00
9. Propylene glycol
1.00
(and) Diazolidinyl urea (and)
methylparaben (and) propylparaben
Phase E
10. Silicone quaternium-16
4.08
(and) undeceth-11 (and)
butyloctanol (and) undeceth-5
Trade Name/Supplier
Natrosol 250 HHR/Hercules
Arquad 16-29/Akzo Novel
Lanette Wax O/Cognis Corporation
Arlacel 165/Uniqema
Propylene glycol USP/FCC/Fisher
Glycerin/Fisher Chemical Co.
Gluadin W20/Cognis Corporation
Germaben II/ISP
Dow Corning® 5-7113 Silicone Quat
Microemulsion
Procedure: Combine ingredients of Phase A and heat to 75°C. Add Phase B to Phase
A while mixing. Begin cooling. Add Phase C to the first mixture while mixing. Cool
to 50°C. Add Phase D, followed by Phase E. Add deionized water to compensate for
water loss during the heating phase.
In today’s competitive ethnic hair care
market, formulators are challenged to
create high performance, multifunctional products that meet unique needs based
on hair structure and styling techniques.
Silicones are already recognized for
their superior conditioning properties,
and materials based on new silicone
technologies can provide increasingly
specialized solutions for innovative
ethnic hair care products.
References
1. Starch, Michael S., “Silicone for
Conditioning Damaged Hair,” Soap
Cosmet Chem Spec, 62(4) (April
1986).
2. Hoag, C., Rizwan, B. and Quackenbush, K., “Evaluating silicone emulsions for global hair care applications,” Global Cosmet Ind, 44-55
(April 1999).
3. Varaprath et al., US Patent
5,152,984.
4. Varaprath et al., US Patent
5,126,126.
5. Reimer, B.M., Oldinski, R.L., and
Glover, D.A., “An objective method
for evaluating hair shine, Soap Cosmet Chem Spec, 71(10) 45-47 (October 1995).
6. Kennan et al., US Patent 6,482,969.
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