HAIR STRENGTHENING FOR DAMAGED HAIR Yin Hessefort, Luciene Bastos, Claudio Ribeiro, Robert Williams, Eric Anderson, Malte Ruffing, Narjis Askar, Ann Giovannitti-Jensen, Cheryl Slabozeski, Murat Kadir INTRODUCTION TENSILE STRENGTH ASSESSMENT Hair surface and internal damages are studied. FT-IR analysis illustrates that surface damage intensifies when chemical treatment is repeated. Tensile strength indicates that relaxer treatment causes the most internal damages among all the other chemical treatments. Our research demonstrates that the relaxer treatment containing acrylic acid and acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer (CG 4500 polymer) significantly improves by about 20% tensile strength, in Brazilian hair relaxed with guanidine, compared to the system containing no polymer. In Kinky hair relaxed with lye relaxer, the improvement is about 55%. The metals removal is also demonstrated here. COOH * The addition of CG4500 Polymer in both lye and no lye relaxers improves tensile strength statistically better than control. * m n O HN SO3H Figure 5: tensile Strength for Natural African-American hair treated with lye relaxer.ferent than control. Figure 1: acrylic acid and acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer structure MATERIALS AND METHODS • Hair tresses, 6 inches long were obtained from International Hair Importer, Inc; • Caucasian hair was bleached using a commercial product and analyzed via Attenuated Total Reflectance (ATR); • Caucasian and Brazilian hair were relaxed with Lubrizol no lye relaxer formulation. Kinky and Brazilian hair were relaxed with lye formulation; • All types of hair were tested via Single Hair Fiber Tensile Strength Analysis.The hair samples were placed in a Dia-Stron Miniature Tensile Tester (Model 170/670) for the determination of tensile strength in a wet condition. • Calcium deposition and removal were analyzed via image analysis in Keyence Digital Microscope at 2000 Magnification. • Hair color improvement was analysed at HunterLab, in tresses washed with shampoo containing CG4500 polymer or not. Figure 6: Brazilian hair treated with lye relaxer Figure 7: Tensile Strength for Brazilian hair treated with lye relaxer HAIR SHINE ASSESSMENT 1200 ppm Ca2+ 00 ppm Ca2+ RESULTS HAIR SURFACE DAMAGE ASSESSMENT FT-IR Analysis Figure 8:Hair shine improvement due Ca2+ removal HAIR DYE DEPOSITION R-S-S-R R-SO-S-R R-SO2-S-R[R-SO2-SO-R] R-SO2-SO2-R 2R-SO3H Control N-H and C-H stretching bands S-O/SO2 Figure 2: Hair surface damage assessment CG4500 Figure 3: Hair surface damage assessment HAIR INTERNAL DAMAGE ASSESSMENT Hair was damaged using different treatments. Tensile strength was measured. Figure 9: Hair dye deposition Figure 10: Hair dye deposition CONCLUSIONS: CG 4500 AS SOLUTION FOR DAMAGE CONTROL AND HAIR DYE Tensile strength evaluation of different treatments indicates lye relaxer damages the hair most ACRYLIC ACID/ACRYLAMIDOMETHYL PROPANE SULFONIC ACID COPOLYMER • CG4500 polymer was found having chelating capability • Quantified metal ions removal • Quantified color deposition enhancement • Improved tensile strength of damaged hair Figure 4: Hair internal damage assessment formulate with confidence™ Trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation. © 2013 The Lubrizol Corporation
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