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TECHNICAL GUIDE
100 YEARS OF COLOUR INNOVATION
1909
1929
1952
1978
1990
2009
L’ORÉAL IS
CREATED
Imedia
Régé
Colour
Majirel
diacolor
A NEW
ERA
BEGINS
1st harmless
hair colour
1st oxidative
hair colour
1st direct
hair colour
1st conditioning
hair colour
1st tone on tone
hair colour
1
INNOVATION
NO AMMONIA
100% AMMONIA-FREE PERMANENT COLOUR
DESIGNED FOR OPTIMISED HAIR QUALITY*
AND SCALP COMFORT
*Helps maintain the hair’s natural level of lipids
2
3
BEFORE THERE WAS...
CLASSIC PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR
BEFORE APPLICATION
AFTER APPLICATION
Colorant
Ammonia
THE PRESENCE OF AMMONIA
ODOUR
RISK OF SCALP DISCOMFORT, STINGING
4
TODAY THERE IS...
THE REVOLUTIONARY OIL DELIVERY SYSTEM**
An unprecedented technological breakthrough with oil base technology
that optimises the effectiveness of the coloration system
BEFORE APPLICATION
AFTER APPLICATION
Colorant
Alkaline agent
100% AMMONIA-FREE PERMANENT COLOUR
ODOURLESS
OPTIMISED SCALP COMFORT
OPTIMISED RESPECT FOR THE HAIR*
*Helps maintain the hair’s natural level of lipids
**ODS: Oil Delivery System
5
HAIR
COLORANT
100%
AMMONIA-FREE
olour concentrate
C
6 x 8g tubes
3 applications
oleo
gel
art 1 of the ODS
P
Oil base for the
colour pigments
1000 ml
22 applications
6
rich
Oxydant
art 2 of the ODS
P
1st oxydant to contain oil to
activate the ODS technology
1000 ml (20 or 30 vol.)
16 applications
iNOA POST
SHAMPOO
ost colour shampoo
P
designed to emulsify oil based
coloration and enhance the
colour result
1500 ml
150 applications
7
3 REVOLUTIONARY
BENEFITS
8
1
UNPRECEDENTED
COMFORT
2
3
OPTIMISED RESPECT UNLIMITED
FOR THE HAIR*
COLOUR RESULTS**
*Helps maintain the hair’s natural level of lipids
**Intermixable shades able to lighten up to 3 levels
9
UNLIMITED COLOUR RESULTS FOR ULTIMATE CREATIVITY
rue and predictable shades: neutralising cool shades, vibrant and luminous warm shades
T
Lightens up to 3 levels
Exceptionally even coverage from root to tip
Perfect coverage of white hair
Natural basic
Gold
Copper
10
Red/
Mahogany
Warm brown/
Warm beige
Cool brown/
Cool beige
Burgundy/
Iridescent
Ash
11
A NEW
TECHNICAL APPROACH
TO PERMANENT
HAIR COLOUR
13
1
PREPARATION
A SKIN
ALLERGY
TEST MUST BE
CARRIED OUT
TO PREPARE 1 APPLICATION
(see page 30)
Step 1. 40g Oleo Gel
Step 2. Add 60g Rich Oxydant
Slide the INOA Mixing Tool
Slide the INOA Mixing Tool
up to the first line (1 oleo gel)
and fill to the top with 40g Oleo
Gel, levelling with a whisk.
40g Oleo Gel
{
up to the second line
60g Rich Oxydant
(1 oxydant) and fill to the top
with 60g Rich Oxydant, levelling
40g Oleo Gel
{
{
with a whisk.
IMPORTANT: Do not empty
the Oleo Gel into the mixing
IMPORTANT: Never replace
bowl at this stage.
the Rich Oxydant with
another oxydant.
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Step 3. Empty contents
and add 2 x 8g colorant
Empty the Oleo Gel and
Rich Oxydant into a mixing
bowl and add 2 x 8g tubes
of colorant. Mix together with a whisk until a smooth, creamy texture is obtained.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that
all 8g are squeezed from
both tubes.
TO PREPARE A 1/2 DOSE
Use the reverse of the INOA Mixing Tool to measure 20g Oleo Gel
+ 30g Rich Oxydant and add 1 x 8g tube of colorant.
IMPORTANT: RUBILANE™ & DM5 TECHNICAL RULES
FIRST APPLICATION: FOR NEW AND EXISTING CLIENTS
For optimal results on the first application of an INOA red or copper shade with Rubilane™ or
DM5, you are recommended to take the product through immediately (TTI) regardless of how
much the colour has faded on the lengths and ends.
WHITE HAIR COVERAGE:
Thanks to their intensity, INOA red or copper shades with Rubilane™ and DM5 cover white hair
perfectly without mixing. On 0% to 100% white hair apply your chosen shade without mixing
with a Natural Basic.
TIP: FOR BEST RESULTS, DM5 SHOULD NOT BE MIXED WITH ANY
OTHER SHADE
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2
application AND
DEVELOPMENT
Apply to the root area and if necessary the lengths and ends
(see Colouring Lengths and Ends Techniques). Due to its creamy
texture the product adheres well to the hair.
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
35 min
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3
REMOVAL AND rINSING
For the removal of INOA there is a specific technique
To be completed at the styling station
egin by carrying out a gentle, dry emulsification (without
B
water) to ensure that all the colour is loose on the hair –
do no massage the scalp directly.
To be completed at the backwash
Once the colour has been completely loosened on the hair,
continue to emulsify by adding a little water. After a few
moments, rinse thoroughly until water runs clear.
Finish with the specific shampoo: INOA Post
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4
WHITE HAIR
COVERAGE
UP TO
70 %
Apply your chosen shade and mix 2 x tubes
of the selected shade with 40g Oleo Gel +
60g Rich Oxydant 20 or 30 vol.
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
35 min
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FROM
70 %
TO
100 %
Mix 1 tube of your chosen shade + 1 tube of
a Natural Basic shade on the same level + 40g
Oleo Gel + 60g Rich Oxydant 20 vol.
RUBILANE™ & DM5:
Thanks to their intensity, INOA red or copper
shades with Rubilane™ and DM5 cover white
hair perfectly without mixing. On 0% to 100%
white hair apply your chosen shade without
mixing with a Natural Basic.
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
35 min
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5
COLOURING LENGTHS
AND ENDS TECHNIQUES
For all lengths and ends techniques do not add water.
CHANGE OF COLOUR (Take Through Immediately)
Change of colour
ZONE 1
Apply your chosen shade to the root area (ZONE 1)
ithout adding water, take through immediately to
W
the lengths and ends (ZONE 2)
ZONE 2
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
35 min
20
COLOUR REFRESH (Take Through)
Apply your chosen shade to the root area (ZONE 1)
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
20 min
Colour refresh
ZONE 1
ithout adding water, take through to the lengths
W
and ends (ZONE 2)
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
15 min
NO COLOUR CHANGE (Take Through for 5 min)
Apply your chosen shade to the root area (ZONE 1)
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
30 min
ithout adding water, take through to the lengths
W
and ends (ZONE 2)
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
ZONE 2
No colour change
ZONE 1
ZONE 2
5 min
Note: When a white hair coverage technique is applied to the roots, take through with the reflect shade only
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6
VIRGIN HAIR APPLICATION
FOR VIRGIN HAIR
Mix your chosen shade with 40g Oleo Gel + 60g Rich Oxydant
20 or 30 vol. and apply to the lengths and ends 2cm away from the
scalp (ZONE 2)
Virgin Hair
ZONE 1
ZONE 2
Mix a fresh application of your chosen shade with 40g Oleo Gel +
60g Rich Oxydant 20 or 30 vol. and apply to the root area (ZONE 1)
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
35 min
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LONG REGROWTH
Mix your chosen shade with 40g Oleo Gel + 60g Rich Oxydant 20
or 30 vol. and apply to the mid-lengths, 2cm away from the scalp
(ZONE 2)
Long regrowth
ZONE 2
ZONE 1
Mix a fresh application of your chosen shade with 40g Oleo Gel +
60g Rich Oxydant 20 or 30 vol. and apply to the root area (ZONE 1)
ake through to the lengths and ends using the appropriate lengths
T
and ends technique
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
35 min
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7
COLOUR IN
COLOUR PHASE IN (CPI)
COLOUr PHASE IN (CPI) CHART
For use when darkening more than 2 levels
or darkening sensitised hair.
Target
level
To prepare the hair for colouring
hoose relevant Colour Phase In (CPI) shade from the diagram
C
and mix with 40g Oleo Gel + 60g Rich Oxydant 20 vol.
Apply to lightened or sensitised areas of the hair
Allow to develop for between 3 – 15 minutes depending on the
desired undercolour required
Rinse, shampoo and completely dry the hair
To complete the colour service
Apply your chosen shade to the roots
Take Through Immediately (TTI)
Cool
Time
Warm
(Ash, Beige, (Copper,
Gold)Mahogany, Red)
Undercoat
9
Very light Blonde
3
Pale Yellow
8
Light Blonde
8.3
8.34
Yellow
7
Blonde
15
Yellow Orange
6 Darkest Blonde
3Orange
5
Light Brown
6.34
6.46Orange Red
4
Brown
15
Red
3
Dark Brown
3
Dark Red
2
Darkest Brown
4.56
4.56
Very Dark Red
1
Black
15
Darkest Red
24
COLOUR bALANce IN (CBI)
For use on highlighted or highly sensitised hair.
Apply your chosen shade to the roots
hoose the relevant Colour Balance In (CBI) shade from
C
the diagram*
Mix your chosen shade and Colour Balance In (CBI) shade
with 40g Oleo Gel + 60g Rich Oxydant 20 or 30 vol.
Apply to the lightened lengths and ends
Take Through Immediately (TTI)
* If your chosen shade is also the CBI shade use the corresponding ,3 shade
COLOUr BALANCE IN (CBI) CHART
Cool
Warm
Target
Undercoat
levelAshBeige Gold, Red
CopperMahogany
9
Very light Blonde 9.3
9.3 8.34
Pale Yellow
8
Light Blonde 8.3
8.3 8.34
Yellow
7
Blonde 7.3
7.43
Yellow Orange
6 Darkest Blonde 6.3
6.34 6.45/6.46Orange
5
Light Brown 5.3
5.4 5.56Orange Red
4
Brown 4.3 4.45/4.65
Red
3
Dark Brown 4.3 4.45/4.65
Dark Red
25
8
COLOUR OUT
CLeANSe
To eliminate an incompatible reflect.
Mix 1 sachet of Efassor + 60ml of very hot water, apply at the backwash on dry
hair with a sponge
egin the application at the nape of the neck and apply quickly to the lengths
B
and ends, emulsifying continuously
After the development time: rinse, shampoo and dry the hair. Apply the desired
shade and take through immediately (TTI)
DEVELOPMENT tIME:
5 to 20 min
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DEeP CLEANSE
To deep cleanse previously lightened hair or to lighten previously coloured hair to
create a final undercoat.
Mix 1 sachet of Efassor + 75ml L’Oréal Professionnel Cream Oxydant 20 or 30 vol.
Apply at the styling station with a brush, using cotton wool to protect the natural hair
Lighten until the desired undercoat is achieved
After the development time: rinse, shampoo and dry the hair. Apply your chosen
shade and take through immediately (TTI)
DEVELOPMENT TIME:
up to 50 min
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9
INOA SKIN ALLERGY TEST
IMPORTANT: A HAIR COLORANT CAN CAUSE AN ALLERGIC REACTION. A SKIN
ALLERGY TEST MUST BE COMPLETED BEFORE EACH APPLICATION OF ANY
HAIR COLORANT. FOLLOW THE SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ON THE LEAFLET.
PREPARATION
Measure 1 part of INOA colorant using the skin allergy test spoon and use the spatula to scrape
the contents into a non-metallic mixing bowl
Measure 2.5 parts of INOA Oleo Gel using the skin allergy test spoon and use the spatula to scrape
the contents into a non-metallic mixing bowl
Mix the 2 products thoroughly in a non-metallic bowl with the spatula
Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product
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Application
Remove earings
ehind the ear and using a cotton bud apply enough of the mixture
B
to cover an area 1-2 cm²
Re-apply allowing it to dry between applications
Leave for 48 hours without washing, covering or touching
If during this period you or your clients notice any abnormal reaction such
as intense itching, redness or swelling around the test area DO NOT
APPLY THE COLORANT.
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10
FAQ
1. What are the 3 components of INOA
and what do they contain?
2. Why do I need 3 elements for INOA
but only 2 with Classic technology?
HAIR COLORANT
Concentrated colorants
INOA provides a new approach to the delivery of
colour into the hair. Classic oxidative hair colour is
hydrophilic which means it likes water. Therefore we
can have a hair colour tube that contains the aqueous
support and the active hair colour ingredients.
Alkaline agent
OLEO GEL
Mineral Oil (Part 1 of the Oil Delivery System – ODS)
ctive clay (that acts as a thickener to ensure a
A
smooth mixture)
kin protecting agent (known for its soothing
S
performance on sensitive skin)
RICH OXYDANT
Mineral Oil (Part 2 of the Oil Delivery System – ODS)
Hydrogen peroxide
The INOA, Oil Delivery System (ODS) is based on
a hydrophobic support, meaning without water and
contains a high concentration of oil. The active hair
colour ingredients do not like oil and cannot be kept
in the same tube as the hydrophobic support.
Therefore INOA, with the Oil Delivery System (ODS)
has 3 elements.
3. Why do I need 2 tubes for 1
application?
The need for 2 tubes of the concentrated colorants
allows the mixing of a fashion shade with a
corresponding Natural Basic for perfect coverage of
over 70% white hair. Additionally, 2 tubes allows for the
intermixing of 2 shades and ultimate creativity.
1 application = 2 x 8g tubes
4. How do I mix INOA?
To prepare 1 application on INOA mix:
40g of Oleo gel
0g of Rich Oxydant 20 or 30 vol. (20 vol. to cover
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white hair or lighten up to 2 levels and 30 vol. to
lighten up to 3 levels)
2 x 8g tubes
Ionène G
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5. Is the numbering of INOA shades the
same as that of Majirel?
Yes, it is identical. As with existing classic technology
such as Majirel, with INOA there are up to 3 numbers
that represent the depth, primary and secondary reflects.
9
Very light Blonde
8
Light Blonde
7
Blonde
6
Darkest Blonde
5
Light Brown
4
Brown
3
Dark Brown
2
Darkest Brown
1
Black
Blue
,1 Ash
Light blue
,01 Natural Ash
Light mauve
,02 iridescent
Green
,7 Cool
Mauve
,2 iridescent
Light green
,7 Natural Cool
Mahogany
,5 Mahogany
Light yellow
,03 Natural Golden
Yellow
,3 Golden
Red
,6 Red
Light orange
,04 Natural Copper
Orange
,4 Copper
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6. Can we mix 2 shades?
Yes. The 8g tubes allow you to mix a fashion shade
with a corresponding Natural Basic shade for
coverage of over 70% white hair.
Example: 1 tube of 6 + 1 tube of 6,45
Alternatively, all shades can be intermixed to achieve
unlimited colour results when not covering over 70%
white hair.
Example: 1 tube of 6,34 + 1 tube of 8,34 = 7,34
7. If I don’t find 2 shades I want from
INOA, can I mix INOA with shades from
another brand?
No. As the technology within INOA, the Oil Delivery
System (ODS) is completely different to existing classic
technology it is not possible to mix shades from the 2
brands and achieve a desirable colour result.
8. Is a skin allergy test essential when
using INOA?
Yes. As with all hair colour a skin allergy test is
required prior to an application of INOA (see Skin
Allergy Test).
9. For the white hair coverage, why can’t
a Golden Basic be used?
11. Why do I need INOA Post Shampoo
and is this mandatory?
The INOA reflections are pure and do not lose their
intensity when mixed with a Natural Basic. The natural
shades are also authentic and do not modify the purity
of the reflection when mixed. Therefore with INOA
we do not have Golden Basic shades, as they are not
needed in order to obtain a luminous reflect.
Yes. INOA Post Shampoo is specifically designed to
remove an oil-based coloration. As INOA contains
the Oil Delivery System (ODS), it is very important the
the correct shampoo is used to ensure removal and
optimum colour results.
10. Should I emulsify before rinsing?
IMPORTANT: when using INOA absolutely no water
should be used during the initial emulsion phase. You
must emulsify before rinsing, since the methodology is
different from that of classic technology.
To be completed at the styling station
Begin by carrying out a gentle, dry emulsification at
the styling station (without water) to ensure that all
colour is loose on the hair.
12. Is there a difference between the
colour result of Majirel and that of INOA?
If we apply an INOA colour to a Majirel
client will the client see the difference?
Clients will see a very similar colour result, however
they will also notice the benefits attributed to the
optimised respect for the hair that INOA provides.
Additionally clients will also benefit from optimised
scalp comfort and an odourless colour experience.
To be completed at the backwash
Once the colour has been completely loosened on
the hair, continue to emulsify by adding a little water.
After a few moments, rinse thoroughly until water
runs clear.
Finish with the specific shampoo: INOA Post
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11
HEALTH AND SAFETY
At L’Oréal Professionnel, our aim is to work in
partnership with you to create beautiful hair, whilst
ensuring at all times the absolute safety of you,
your staff and all your clients. We invest tirelessly
in product development to create NEW innovative
products with safety always in mind. These
products, when used at all times according to
the safety instructions, alongside recommended
best practice in your salon, will help ensure not
only the best results, but the safest environment
for everyone.
L’Oréal Professionnel has designed a protocol
which will enable you to manage your clients’
colour experience and determine the need to
carry out a skin allergy test.
The protocol follows a 3-step consultation with
your colour client, to accompany the application
of a L’Oréal Professionnel coloration:
Step1: Professional Consultation
Step 2: How to carry out a skin allergy test
Step 3: How to carry out a colour application
Refer to your Professional Safety booklet for
more information.
Please note: If you do not follow the 3-step
professional safety consultation then the basic
skin allergy test rules still apply.
A SKIN ALLERGY TEST MUST BE DONE 48
HOURS BEFORE EACH APPLICATION
Hair colorants can cause an allergic reaction,
which in certain rare cases may be severe for you
and your client. It is therefore essential to follow
these precautions:
ear suitable disposable gloves during the
W
preparation, application and rinsing of the
product.
DO NOT USE a hair colorant product if:
your client has previously experienced a
reaction to hair colorants.
y our client has a sensitive, itchy or
damaged scalp.
Check for tattoos and permanent make-up.
Black henna tattoos: Ask your client if he/she has
ever had, even once, a black henna tattoo as he/
she may have become allergic without realising it.
Do not use this product unless you have done the
skin allergy test 48 hours before use.
Recommend that your client seeks medical advice
before any further colour applications are made.
If your client has had an allergic reaction to any
type of skin tattoo including henna or permanent
make-up, the risk of allergy may be greater.
Furthermore, when using technical products and
in cases of prolonged exposure to water:
HOW TO CARRY OUT A SKIN
ALLERGY TEST
Mix 1 part colorant with 2.5 parts Oleo Gel.
Mix the two products thoroughly in a non-metallic
bowl. Remove earrings. Behind the ear and using
a cotton-bud apply a little of the mixture sufficient
to cover an area of 1 to 2 cm2 (see INOA Skin
Allergy Test page 30 for full details).
Re-apply two or thee times allowing it to dry
between each application. Leave for 48 hours
without washing, covering or touching.
If during the course of this period you or your
client notice any abnormal reaction such as
intense itching, redness or swelling in or around
the test area DO NOT APPLY THE COLORANT.
ear suitable disposable gloves during
W
the preparation, application and rinsing of
the product.
AFTER APPLICATION
For technical products, discard any left-over
mixtures immediately. They cannot be kept or
used again.
For safe storage and disposal of waste see the
COSHH booklet and L’Oréal Professionnel
product guide.
For a copy call customer services on
0845 6000 122 or contact the Hairdressing &
Beauty Suppliers Association on 01707 649 499.
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