A guideto chain saw chain sharpening The chain saw is one of an arborist’s most important tools. A well-maintained saw with a sharp chain will help make the job run smoothly and profitably. A dull chain causes both the saw and the saw user to work harder and actually makes the chain saw more dangerous and prone to kickback. Proper chain sharpening has become something of a lost art, as many users actually waste a lot of chain and cause the saw to cut poorly because of improper sharpening. Prior to talking about sharpening, it is important that we understand the different parts of the cutter tooth and how the chain is designed to cut. There are five parts of the cutter tooth that work together to make the chain cut properly. 1 First is the depth gauge. Often called a raker, guide or drag, the depth gauge sits in front of the cutter tooth. The clearance from the top of the depth gauge to the cutter tooth sets up the thickness of the chip. Generally this is designed to be between 25 and 30 one-thousandths of an inch. 3 2 Second is the working corner, which is rounded on a semi-chisel chain and pointed (hence called the point) on a full-chisel chain. This working corner starts the cut; if it has been damaged, the chain won’t cut properly. Third is the top of the tooth or the top plate. The top plate angle is the angle at which the chain is sharpened, usually 25 or 30 degrees. On many chains there is a line on the rear of the top plate. This is the witness mark, showing that the chain can be sharpened back to that line and still cut effectively. It is also parallel to the top plate angle and may be used as a filing guide. 5 4 Fourth is the bottom of the top plate, also known as the chisel. The chain cuts by chiseling off a chip of wood. The chisel angle is normally between 45 and 60 degrees. Fifth is the side plate, this severs the chip. The side plate angle is often the same as the chisel angle depending on the type of chain and the filing technique. It is important to have a razor edge on both the side and top plates, with no nicks or shiny spots. There are numerous ways to sharpen chain: bench grinding, using dremel tools, round filing and square bit filing. We will focus here on round filing, but it is important with any sharpening technique that the user gets proper training with those specific tools in order to use them effectively. While it is important to have a sharply defined point and sharp top and side plates, it is also important to try and maintain the same working angles on the various parts of the cutting tooth as when it was new. Some people suggest its better to increase the top plate angle, to between 35 and 45 degrees; the chain will cut faster because there was less chain traveling through the wood. Experience has shown that this may help somewhat in soft wood but definitely not in hard wood. In addition, this technique exposes more of the point and thins out the side plate, making it much easier to dull the chain. One of the hardest things when round filing by hand is to hold the file in the in the proper position with 20 percent of the file visible above the tooth, so that the chain is sharpened and the tooth angles are maintained. A common mistake is to put too much down pressure on the file, eventually putting the file under the tooth, creating a hooked tooth and changing the side plate and chisel angles. The chain will cut rough and hardly ever cut straight. The opposite to this is pulling up and into the tooth with the file too much as you sharpen. This can flatten out the chisel angle and side plate angle leading to the chain not feeding into the wood and not cutting well. Learning to place the file on the tooth in the correct position during sharpening is very challenging physically and mentally. Therefore I have found that there are a few different filing guides that can make the job much easier. Before looking at these filing guides, let’s make sure we have the right tools. A vise is a nice way to immobilize your chain saw and allows you to sharpen with both hands on the file. A stump vise will allow you to easily file out on the jobsite. Make sure you know what size chain you have on your saw so you know what size file and filing guide(s) to use. Filing from the outside will chip the chrome on the side plate. File the tooth back until you get a nicely defined point and a razor-sharp top plate edge. If the leading edge is shiny, the chrome plating has been chipped off. It is important to bring the edge back until you get the dull chrome-plated finish along the edge. Generally, try to keep the file level when sharpening, as there is already an 8 degree angle on the tooth. Oregon makes a chain-filing plate for the file to sit in (refer to the video). Simply lay the file plate on top of the tooth you are sharpening, and it sets the file on the tooth in the correct position. Line angles on the top of the plate help you set up the proper filing angle. Another handy tool is the roller-guide. This sits on top of the bar/chain tooth. Push the file along the tooth with gentle strokes so that both rollers move. Once again this puts the file on the tooth in the correct position. I usually use the witness mark on the tooth to line up my filing angle. After filing all the teeth, it is important to set the depth gauges. There a number of different types of depth gauge plates; probably the easiest comes with the roller guide combo. Lay the plate on top of the filed tooth with the depth gauge protruding up through the hole in the plate. Take a flat file and file the depth gauge down to the plate. Now you have set the depth gauge to that tooth. While the best cutting occurs when all the teeth are the same size, because the chain is well balanced, the most important thing is to have each tooth sharp and have each depth gauge set to that tooth so all the teeth are taking the same amount of bite when cutting. A very handy two-in-one filing guide is the Husqvarna Sharp Force guide. This unit uses both a round file and flat file and takes down the depth gauges at the same time you are sharpening the tooth. This is very useful for touch-ups out in the field. The Sharp Force tool must be used on a full complement chain, as the file guide rides on top of the tooth you are sharpening and the tooth in front of it. Just when you thought it couldn’t get any easier, along comes the new Power Sharp precision saw chain sharpening system from Oregon. This system will allow you to sharpen your chain in as little as three to five seconds. For a closer look visit http://www.powersharp.com/powersharp_video.asp Most cutting in the tree-care industry is done with three different sizes of chain pitch. The pitch of the chain is the distance between any three consecutive rivets, divided by two. A three-eighth-inch pitch chain generally uses a 7/32-inch file, a .325-inch pitch chain uses a 3/16-inch file and a 3/8-inch low-profile chain uses a 5/32-inch file. If you are using a file guide, make sure it is for the correct size chain. When filing, the file cuts on the push motion, not the pull. Dragging the file back and forth will only dull the file. It is also important to file from the inside of the tooth out. Any of these handy filing guides can help make sharpening a little less burdensome. Of course, a good sawyer who keeps the bar/chain out of the dirt will need to spend a lot less time sharpening their chain. A sharp chain will make the job easier and safer — and allow the saw to do the work. A dull chain requires the operator to push harder on the saw, which leads to more wear of the bar and sprocket. So, when using a chain saw, please remember to work safely, wear the proper personal protective equipment and keep both hands on the saw — an make sure the chain is properly sharpened. By Rip Tompkins, ArborMaster, Inc
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