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PROFESSIONAL SERVICES FOR MEN:
HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
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SECTION TOPICS
THE CLIENT CONSULTATION
BASIC PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCUTTING AND STYLING
FUNDAMENTALS OF HAIRCUTTING
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
HAIRCUTTING TECHNIQUES
INTRODUCTION TO MEN’S HAIRSTYLING
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
T
he art of haircutting involves individualized
and precise designing, cutting, and shaping of the hair. In order
to perform the art of haircutting successfully, the barber must
be at ease using a variety of tools, implements, techniques, and
methods.
It is important to remember that a good haircut is the
foundation of a good hairstyle. To achieve optimal results requires knowning the proper way to cut, blend, and taper the
hair using clippers, shears, and razors. Practice and application
are necessary for the achievement and refinement of these skills
because each new client will present new challenges and learning opportunities that form the basis for future success.
The hairstyle, and therefore the haircut, should accentuate the client’s strong features and minimize the weaker
ones. The client’s head shape, facial contour, neckline, and
hair texture must be taken into consideration. The barber
needs to be guided by the client’s wishes, personality, and
lifestyle as well.
THE CLIENT CONSULTATION
A thorough client consultation helps to eliminate
any guesswork about the haircut or style to be performed. This
is the time when the barber must determine just what it is the
client is asking for in the way of a haircut or style. Phrases such
as “a little off the top” or “over the ears” are not specific enough
for haircutting purposes. How is “a little” measured? Is it 1/4 inch
or 1 inch? Does “over-the-ears” mean covering the ears or cut-
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
ting around the ears? These interpretations are just two examples of why the consultation is so important to both the client
and the barber.
Some basic questions that barbers should ask the client before the actual cutting begins are as follows:
How long has it been since your last haircut?
Knowing that the average hair growth is about
1/2 inch per month allows the barber to envision
the preferred length of the hair before it grew out
and needed to be cut again.
Do you prefer a similar style or are you looking for
something new?
The answer to this question can lead the barber
directly to the cutting stage or to further discussion
with the client about appropriate styles and options.
What is your usual morning routine (shampoo, blowdry, etc.)?
The answer will indicate how much time the client is
willing to spend on hair care.
Are you having any particular problems with your
hairstyle?
This question provides an opportunity to open
dialogue about specific hair-related issues such as
problem areas, length, fullness, growth and wave
patterns, hair texture, density, or color.
Additional consultation questions should lead to answers that
help the barber to determine the length of the sideburns, the
shape of the neckline, and whether or not the client desires a
neck shave, eyebrow trim, and so on. With practice and experience, barbers learn the questions to ask.
Envisioning is the process of picturing or visualizing in your
mind the finished cut and style based on what the client has told
you. With the information gained through the consultation, the
barber is better able to visualize the client’s expectations of the
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
haircutting service. It is essential to achieve this understanding
before beginning the haircut.
BASIC PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCUTTING
AND STYLING
Each haircut is a representation and advertisement
of the barber’s work. Remember, a good haircut is the foundation of a good hairstyle.
Hairstyling has been defined as the artistic cutting and
dressing of hair to best fit the client’s physical needs and personality. Pay attention to details such as client comfort, sideburn
lengths, outlines, balance, and proportion. The consultation
should provide sufficient information about the client’s lifestyle
and personality to suggest a suitable style, but a study of facial
shapes assists the barber in determining the best style for a
client’s features.
Facial Shapes
The facial shape of each individual is determined by the position and prominence of the facial bones. There are seven general facial shapes: oval, round, inverted triangular, square,
pear-shaped, oblong, and diamond. In order to recognize each
facial shape and then be able to give correct advice, the barber
should be acquainted with the outstanding characteristics of
each type. With this information, the barber can suggest a haircut and style that complements the facial shape in much the
same way certain clothes flatter the body.
The following facial shapes should constitute a guide for
choosing an appropriate style:
FIGURE 1
Oval face.
Oval: The oval-shaped face is generally recognized as
the ideal shape. Any hairstyle that maintains the oval
shape is usually suitable (Figure 1). Try changing the
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
part. Experiment, but keep in mind elements such
as the client’s lifestyle, comfort, and ease of
maintenance.
Round: The aim here is to slim the face. Hair that is
too short will emphasize fullness, so create some
height on the top to lengthen the look of the face
(Figure 2). An off-center part and some waves at eye
level will also help lessen the full appearance of the
face. Beards should be styled to make the face appear
oval.
Inverted triangular: The potential problems with this
facial shape are overwide cheekbones and a narrow
jaw line (Figure 3). Keep the hair close at the crown
and temples and longer in back, or try changing the
part and the direction of the hair. A full beard helps
to fill out the narrow jaw.
Square: To minimize the angular features at the
forehead, use wavy bangs that blend into the temples.
This softens the square forehead and draws attention
to a strong jaw (Figure 4). If a beard is worn, it should
be styled to slenderize the face.
FIGURE 2
Round face.
FIGURE 3
face.
Inverted triangular
FIGURE 4
Square face.
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Pear-shaped: This shape is narrow at the top and wide
on the bottom (Figure 5). Create width and fullness at
the top, temples, and sides to produce balance. Short,
full styles are best, ending just above the jaw line
where it joins the ear area. A body wave or mediumsize curl perm is another way to achieve width at the
top. If a beard is worn, it should be styled to
slenderize the lower jaw.
Oblong: The long face needs to be shortened, the
angularity hidden, and the hairline never exposed
(Figure 6). Blown bangs can provide a solution. A
layered cut is best. A mustache helps to shorten a
long face.
Diamond: The aim here is to fill out the face at the
temples and chin and keep hair close to the head at
the widest points (Figure 7). Deep, full bangs give a
broad appearance to the forehead and a fuller back
section adds width. A full, square, or rounded beard
would also be appropriate.
Profiles
Always be aware of the client’s profile because it can influence the appropriateness of a haircut or style for that particular individual.
FIGURE 5
Pear-shaped face.
FIGURE 6
Oblong face.
FIGURE 7
Diamond face.
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Straight profiles tend to be the most balanced and can
usually wear any hairstyle successfully (Figure 8).
Concave profiles require a close hair arrangement over
the forehead to minimize the bulge of the forehead
(Figure 9).
Convex profiles require some balance so arrange the top
front hair over the forehead to conceal a short,
receding forehead (Figure 10). A beard or goatee
minimizes a receding chin.
FIGURE 8
Straight profile.
Angular profiles also have receding foreheads, but the
chin tends to jut forward (Figure 11). Arrange the top
front hair over the forehead to create more balance. A
short beard and mustache help to minimize the
protruding chin.
Nose Shapes
The shape of the nose influences a profile and should be studied both in profile and from a full-face view.
Concave profile
(prominent forehead and chin).
FIGURE 9
Prominent nose shapes include a hooked nose, large
nose, or pointed nose (Figure 12). Bring the hair
forward at the forehead and back at the sides to
minimize the prominence of the nose.
Convex profile
(receding forehead, prominent
nose, and receding chin).
FIGURE 10
FIGURE 11
Angular profile.
FIGURE 12
Prominent nose.
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Turned-up nose shapes can usually wear shorter haircut
styles because the size or heavy features associated
with prominent nose shapes is not an issue (Figure 13).
Experiment with combing the hair from different part
lines or comb the hair back on the sides.
Neck Lengths
FIGURE 13
Turned-up nose.
FIGURE 14
Long neck.
The length of the neck is also a factor in determining the overall shape of the haircut and style. In most cases it is advisable to
follow the client’s natural hairline when designing a style; however, sometimes an overly long or very short neck limits the options. The length, density, growth pattern, and natural partings
of the hair should be considered when deciding on a style that
best complements the client’s neck length.
Long necks are minimized when the hair is left fuller or
longer at the nape (Figure 14).
Short necks are best served by leaving the neck exposed to
create an appearance of length (Figure 15). Work with the natural hairline and perform a tapered cut that creates an illusion
of a longer nape and neck area.
FUNDAMENTALS OF HAIRCUTTING
FIGURE 15
Short neck.
The fundamental principles of haircutting should be
thoroughly understood. The same general techniques are used
in cutting, shaping, tapering, and blending men’s and women’s
hair. The differences between the two are usually evident in the
overall design line, the contour or shape, which includes volume,
and the finished style. The fundamental principles of haircutting
include the head form, basic terms used in haircutting, and different haircutting techniques.
The Head Form
In order to create consistent and successful results in haircutting, it is necessary to understand the shape of the head. Hair
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
responds differently in different areas of the head because of
the curves and changes from one section to the next. The ability to visualize these sections will assist the barber in the development of individual cutting patterns, help to eliminate
technical mistakes, reduce confusion during the haircutting
process, and facilitate easier checking of the final result.
When designing and cutting hair, the barber should envision the sections of the head as depicted in Figures 16 through
18. These sections include the front, top (apex), temporal,
crown, sides, sideburns, back, and nape.
NOTE: The temporal section is part of the parietal ridge, which
is also known as the crest, horseshoe, or hatband region of
the head.
Reference points are points on the head that mark areas
where the surface of the head changes or the behavior of the
hair changes as a result of the surface changes. These points are
used to establish proportionate design lines and contours.
The parietal ridge is also known as the crest, temporal,
horseshoe, or hatband area of the head. It is the
widest section of the head, starting at the temples and
ending just below the crown. When a comb is placed
flat against the head at the sides, the parietal ridge
begins where the head starts to curve away from the
Temporal
Right Temporal
own
Front
Left Temporal
Righ
Side
ack
Diagram of sections of
head, side view.
FIGURE 16
Diagram of
sections of head, front view.
FIGURE 17
Diagram of
sections of head, back view.
FIGURE 18
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
comb (Figure 19). The parietal ridge is one of the
most important sections of the head when cutting hair
because it serves as a transition area from the top to
the front, sides, and back sections.
FIGURE 19
The parietal ridge.
The occipital bone protrudes at the base of the skull.
When a comb is placed flat against the nape area, the
occipital begins where the head curves away from the
comb (Figure 20).
The apex is the highest point on the top of the head
(Figure 21).
The four corners are located by crossing two diagonal
lines at the apex (Figure 22). The lines will point to
the front and back corners of the head.
FIGURE 20
The occipital bone.
Basic Terms Used in Haircutting
A line is simply a series of connected dots that result in a continuous mark. Straight and curved lines are used in haircutting
to create the shape and direction from which the hair will fall
(Figure 23). The three types of straight lines used in haircutting
are the horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines (Figure 24).
FIGURE 21
FIGURE 22
The apex.
The four corners.
Horizontal lines are parallel to the horizon or floor and
direct the eye from one side to the other. Horizontal
cutting lines build weight and are used to create a
one-length look and low-elevation or blunt haircut
designs. These weight lines are usually created at
the perimeter or at the occipital area of a haircut
(Figures 25 and 26).
Vertical lines are perpendicular to the floor and are
described in terms of up and down. Vertical partings
facilitate the projection of the hair at higher elevations
while cutting. Vertical cutting lines remove weight
within the cut and create layers that may be used to
cut from short to long, long to short, or uniformly,
depending on finger placement (Figure 27).
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
FIGURE 23
Lines and angles.
FIGURE 25
Weight line at
perimeter.
FIGURE 24
Horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines.
FIGURE 26
Weight line at
occipital.
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Vertical partings
facilitate layering.
FIGURE 27
Diagonal lines have a slanted direction and are used to
create sloped lines at the perimeter on the design line
(Figure 28). When used at the perimeter, these lines
are often referred to as diagonal forward or diagonal
back. Diagonal finger placement may also be used to
create a stacked layered effect at the perimeter or to
blend longer layers to shorter layers within a haircut.
An angle is the space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point. Angles help to create strong, consistent
foundations in haircutting and are used in two different ways.
Angles can refer to the degree of elevation at which the hair is
Diagonal line within
top front sections.
FIGURE 28
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
90°
45°
0°
Elevations relative to
the head form.
FIGURE 29
Horizontal
FIGURE 30
Horizontal, zero
elevation.
held for cutting or to the position of the fingers when cutting a
section of hair (cutting line).
Elevation is the angle or degree at which a section of hair is
held from the head for cutting, relative from where it grows. Elevation, also known as projection, is the result of lifting the hair section above 0 degrees or natural fall. This projection of the hair
while cutting produces graduation or layers and is usually described in terms of degrees (Figure 29).
A low elevation of 0 degrees produces weight, bulk, and
maximum length at the perimeter of a hair design.
To perform a 0-degree (zero elevation) cut, a parting is
made in the section to be cut (Figure 30). After
combing the hair straight down from where it grows,
it is cut either against the skin (as in the nape or
around-the-ear areas) or as it is held straight down
between the fingers. Both stationary and horizontal
traveling guides are used to create the design or
perimeter line. The design line then serves as a guide
for all subsequent partings that will be brought to the
design (perimeter) line for cutting. This technique
creates crisp, clean lines around the hairline on
shorter hairstyles and achieves the standard “blunt
cut” on longer hair.
Holding the hair at 45 degrees from where it grows is
considered to be a medium elevation. Medium
elevation or graduation creates layered ends or
“stacking” within the parting of hair from the 0-degree
distance to the 45-degree position. Movement and
texture is created within the distance between the two
degrees, depending on the length of the hair and the
position of the angle in relation to the head form.
Horizontal,
45-degree elevation.
FIGURE 31
Both stationary and horizontal traveling guides are
used to achieve the graduated or stacked effect
(Figure 31). Use of a vertical parting projected at
45 degrees, with the fingers holding the parting
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
angled at a 45-degree diagonal, will create a tapered
effect (Figure 32).
A 90-degree elevation is probably the most common
angle used in men’s haircutting. It produces layering,
tapering, and blended effects. When using a 90-degree
elevation, the hair is held straight out from the head
from where it grows. This requires a traveling guide in
order to move around the entire head. Lengths in
various sections of the head can vary, but the hair will
still be blended overall and considered to be a highelevation cut.
A 90-degree projection can be used to create uniform
layers, as depicted in Figure 33. Cutting each section
of hair the same length creates uniform layers.
To create a tapered effect as shown in Figure 34, the
hair is held from a vertical parting and cut closer to
the head form in the nape and around-the-ear areas at
a 90-degree projection.
A parting is a smaller section of hair, usually 1/4- to 1/2-inch
thick, parted off from a larger section of the hair. The use of partings is essential to maintain control of the hair in manageable
Vertical parting with
45-degree finger placement.
FIGURE 32
FIGURE 33
layers.
90-degree uniform
FIGURE 34
90-degree taper.
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
proportions while performing the haircut. Partings may be
held horizontally, vertically, or diagonally depending on the
desired effect, with a usual projection range of 0 to 180 degrees.
The design line is the outer perimeter line of the haircut. It
may act as a guide depending on the overall design of the haircut and the method the barber uses to achieve it.
A guide, also known as a guideline or guide strand, is a cut
that is made by which subsequent partings or sections of hair
will be measured and cut. Guides are classified as being either
stationary or traveling. Both types may originate at the outer
perimeter (design line) of the hair, or at an interior section,
usually the crown area. Most haircuts are achieved by using a
combination of the two types of guides.
FIGURE 35
Stationary guide.
A stationary guide is used for overall, one-lengthlooking designs at the perimeter, such as a solid-form
blunt cut, or for maintaining the length of one section
while subsequent partings are brought to it from
other sections to meet it for cutting, producing either
an overall long, layered effect or extra length within
a section (Figure 35).
A traveling guide moves along a section of hair as
each cut is made. Once the length of the initial
guide has been cut, a parting is taken from in front
of it or near it, combed with the original guide, and
cut. Then, a new parting is taken, combed with
the second parting of hair, and cut against that
guide. It is this use of the previous guide to cut a
subsequent parting of hair that makes it a traveling
guide. Care must be taken not to recut the original
or subsequent guides as the barber moves along
the section. When performed properly, the traveling
guide ensures even layering and blending of
the hair from one section to another. Refer to
Figures 33 and 34.
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Traveling guides are used internally within the cut to
create blended layers; they are also used to finish
perimeter designs after the hair is cut to the desired
length from one section to another. For example,
although a stationary guide is used when establishing
the length at the perimeter, it becomes a traveling
guide when subsequent cuts are made from left to
right or right to left around the head form.
Layers are produced by cutting the interior sections of the
hair; they can originate from the front, top (apex), crown, or
perimeter (usually the design line). Layering can be angled
(shorter on top and longer at the perimeter), uniform (even
throughout), or fully tapered (longer on top and shorter at the
perimeter). It creates blending, fullness, and/or a feathered effect.
Tapered, or tapering, means that the hair conforms to the
shape of the head and is shorter at the nape and longer in the
crown and top areas. Blending of all of the hair lengths is extremely important in tapering (Figure 34).
A weight line refers to the heaviest perimeter area of a 0- or
45-degree cut. It is achieved by use of a stationary guide at the
perimeter and may be cut in at a variety of levels on the head,
depending on the style. In men’s haircutting, a weight line is
most often used in combination with a tapered nape area.
Texturizing is performed after the overall cut has been completed. Thinning or notching shears or razors can be used to create wispy or spiky effects within the haircut or along the perimeter.
Tension is the amount of pressure applied while combing
and holding a section of hair for cutting. Tension ranges from
minimum to maximum as a result of the amount of stretching
employed when holding the hair between the fingers and the
spacing between the teeth of the comb. For example, finetoothed combs facilitate more tension while combing than
wide-toothed combs.
Use maximum tension on straight hair to create
precise lines.
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Use minimal to moderate tension on curly and wavy
hair as the hair may dry shorter than intended if
maximum tension is used.
Thinning refers to removing excess bulk from the hair.
Outlining means marking the outer perimeter of the haircut in the front (optional, depending on hair texture), in front
of and over the ears, and at the sides and nape of the neck.
Over-direction creates a length increase in the design and
occurs when the hair is combed away from its natural fall position, rather than straight out from the head toward a guide.
Hairstyling involves arranging the hair in a particular style,
appropriately suited to the cut, and may require the use of
styling aids such as hair spray, gel, tonic, oil sheen, or mousse.
During the course of your barbering career, you will be introduced to a variety of haircutting terms. Terminology for the
most part depends on who is presenting the information or
technique and whether or not a new word has been created in
place of former terminology. The same holds true for different
style names and what the latest fashion trends are. As a barber
you need to be aware that cutting the hair at certain angles and
elevations creates specific effects and that hairstyle trends are
cyclical in nature.
Variations of design will inevitably occur, as history has a
way of repeating itself in our industry. Crew cuts and boxed fades
can be traced back to the years of World War II, finger waves
were a hit in the 1920s, and braiding has been around since humans first walked the earth. This reinforces the fact that barbers
must become proficient in the basic skills in order to adapt those
skills and techniques to whatever the current trend may be.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
Barbers should always use high-quality implements, tools, and equipment. When taken care of properly,
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
well-tempered metal implements and electric tools will provide
years of dependable service. Because a myriad of choices are
available, you may want to ask an experienced barber to assist
you in making appropriate selections.
Although all of the implements and tools associated with
barbering will probably be used at some time or another, the
principal “tools of the trade” are combs, brushes, shears, clippers, trimmers, and razors.
Combs
Combs are available in a variety of styles and sizes. The correct
comb to use depends on the type of service to be performed
and the individual preference of the barber. Combs are usually made of bone, plastic, or hard rubber. Because bone
combs can be costly and plastic combs are not as durable as
bone or rubber, most barbers prefer combs made of hard rubber. Fine-toothed combs may be used for general combing
purposes, while wide-toothed combs are preferable for detangling or chemical processing. Some available comb styles are
the all-purpose comb (Figure 36), the taper comb (Figure 37),
the flat top comb (Figure 38), the wide-toothed comb (Figure 39), the tail comb (Figure 40) and the pick or Afro combs
(Figure 41).
FIGURE 36
combs.
Assorted all-purpose
FIGURE 37
Taper combs.
FIGURE 38
Flat-top combs.
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
FIGURE 39
Wide-toothed
FIGURE 40
Tail combs.
FIGURE 41
Pick or Afro combs.
combs.
Holding the Comb
did you know
Barbers can simplify their
work when cutting hair by using lightcolored combs on dark hair and darkcolored combs on light hair. This
The correct manner in which to hold the comb will be dictated
by the type of comb used, the service being performed, and the
dexterity and comfort of the barber. Figures 42 through 45 show
correct and incorrect holding positions that are often used with
an all-purpose comb.
technique provides greater contrast
between the comb and the hair,
Haircutting Shears
especially when employing the shearover-comb method of cutting.
The two types of shears generally used by barbers and barberstylists are the French style, which has a brace for the little finger,
and the German type, which does not incorporate the finger
brace into the design. Barbers typically choose the French design over the German type and both are now available in ergonomically designed styles (Figure 46). Haircutting shears with
detachable blades have also become very popular. The old
Proper combholding position.
FIGURE 42
Improper combholding position.
FIGURE 43
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Proper holding
position for shear-over-comb
cutting.
FIGURE 44
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Improper holding
position for shear-over-comb
cutting.
FIGURE 45
blades can be removed and replaced with new ones, thereby
eliminating the need to send shears out to be sharpened.
FIGURE 46
Haircutting shears.
FIGURE 47
Parts of haircutting
Shear Facts
Shears are composed of two blades, one movable and the other
stationary, fastened with a screw that acts as a pivot. Other parts
of the shears are the cutting edges of the blades, two shanks, finger grip, finger brace, and thumb grip (Figure 47).
Size. Shears are available in a variety of lengths, which
are measured in inches and half-inches. Most barbers
prefer the 6 1/2- to 7 1/2-inch shears.
Grinds. The grind of the shear refers to its cutting
edge. The two main types of shear grinds are plain
and corrugated. The plain grind is used most
frequently and may be smooth (knife edge), medium,
or coarse. The corrugated blade has imbrications. or
teeth, that assist the cutting process.
Set. The set of the shears refers to the alignment of the
blades. This alignment is just as important as the
grind of the blades because even shears with the finest
cutting edges will be inferior cutting tools if the blades
are not set properly.
Thinning, or serrated shears, are used to reduce hair thickness or to create special texturizing effects. They may also be
called texturizing shears. One type of thinning shear has notched
shears.
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Thinning or
texturizing shears.
FIGURE 48
teeth on the cutting edge of one blade, while the other blade has
a straight cutting edge. The second type has overlapping notched
teeth on the cutting edges of both blades (Figure 48).
Thinning shears also differ in respect to the number of
notched teeth on the cutting blade. The greater the number of
notched teeth, the finer the hair strands can be cut without noticeable cut marks. The most common type used is the single
serrated blade having 30 to 32 notched teeth. Recent designs
include a wider notching pattern, with indentations slightly
recessed in the notching teeth in order to perform alternative
texturizing techniques. Thinning shears are also available with
detachable blades.
How to Hold Haircutting Shears
When picking up your shears in preparation for use, you will
probably complete the following steps simultaneously:
1. Insert the ring finger into the finger grip of the still
blade with the little finger resting on the finger
brace. To ensure proper balance, brace the index
finger on the shank of the still blade, approximately
a half-inch from the pivot screw.
2. Next, place the tip of your thumb into the thumb
Correct finger
placement and holding position
of shears.
FIGURE 49
Incorrect finger
placement and holding position
of shears.
FIGURE 50
grip of the moving blade. The thumb grip should be
positioned halfway between the end of your thumb
and the first kunckle. Avoid allowing the thumb grip
to slide below the first knuckle, as you will have less
control of the cutting blade. See Figures 49 and 50
for correct and incorrect finger placement and holding positions of the shears.
PALMING THE SHEARS AND COMB The shears and comb
should be held at all times during a haircut that requires these
tools. For safety, shears need to be closed and resting in the
palm while combing through the hair. This is called “palming
the shears” and is achieved by slipping the thumb out of the
thumb grip and simply pivoting the shear into the palm of the
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
23
hand (Figure 51). With practice, palming will become a very
natural motion. Thinning or texturizing shears should be held
in the same manner as regular haircutting shears.
Once the shears are palmed, the process of combing
through the hair is performed with the comb in the same hand
as the shears (Figure 52). After the section of hair has been
combed into position for cutting, the comb is transferred to the
opposite hand and palmed (Figure 53). This allows the first two
fingers of that hand to be free to maintain control of the hair
and the shear hand free to cut the hair section (Figure 54).
Clippers and Trimmers
FIGURE 51
Palming the shears.
Clippers and trimmers are two of the most important tools used
in barbering. Clippers can be used for a variety of cutting techniques, from blending to texturizing. Trimmers, also referred to
as edgers or outliners, are essential for finish and detail work.
Today’s barber has a vast array of clipper styles from which
to choose (Figures 55 through 57). Function, style, weight, contour, and speed are just some of the factors that should be considered when purchasing a clipper. For example, most clipper
models are single speed but two-speed models are also available.
Some clippers utilize a detachable blade system, whereas others
FIGURE 52
and shears.
Holding the comb
FIGURE 53
Palming the comb.
Correct palming of
comb while cutting.
FIGURE 54
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
Rotary (universal)
motor clippers.
FIGURE 55
FIGURE 56
Pivot motor clippers.
FIGURE 57
Magnetic motor
clippers.
have a single adjustable blade. Clippers with a single cutting
head usually have a blade adjustment lever on the side of the
unit and rely on clipper guards to vary the length of the hair being cut. Check with your local supplier for information on the
different models and styles available.
Blades and Guards
Clipper blades are usually made of high-quality carbon steel and
are available in a variety of styles and sizes (Figure 58). Some
styles are intended for use with detachable-blade clipper models, and others will serve as replacement blades for certain clipper models. Blade sizes can also differ from one manufacturer
to another and may not always indicate the same cutting length,
so be careful when purchasing these items. A good rule of
thumb is to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for the
style and size of clipper blades that are appropriate for their
clipper models. Manufacturers are constantly improving their
clipper blades to permit faster and more precise haircutting; be
on the lookout for the newest in haircutting tools.
Clipper guards, also known as attachment combs, are most often made of plastic or hard rubber and can be used with most
clipper models (Figure 59). The purpose of a clipper guard is
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
FIGURE 58
Clipper blades.
to allow the hair to be left longer than what might be achieved
from the size of the clipper blades alone. Guards do not do the
actual cutting. They are simply supplemental implements that a
barber may use in the pursuit of versatile techniques that can be
added to his or her professional toolbox.
FIGURE 59
Clipper guards.
FIGURE 60
Clipper-holding
How to Hold Clippers
The technique used by a barber to hold the clippers is most often determined by the section of the head he or she is working
on. Cutting the back section will necessitate holding the clippers differently than when cutting the top section. A general
rule to follow is that the clipper should always be held in a manner that permits freedom of wrist movement. Three methods of
holding clippers are explained next, but you or your shop
owner may use an alternative method that is equally correct.
1. When the right-handed barber holds the clippers,
the thumb is placed on top of the clipper with the
fingers supporting it from the underside (Figure 60).
This position is usually comfortable for tapering in
the nape or side areas of a haircut or when the
position #1.
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
did you know
When using clippers to cut
the hair, the amount of hair that
remains depends on whether the hair is
cut with the grain or against the grain.
For example, when using a 1″ blade to
cut with the grain, the approximate
length of the hair that remains will be
1 1/8″ to 1 3/8″; cutting against the
grain will leave the hair from 1″ to
1 1/4″ long.
FIGURE 61
position #2.
Clipper-holding
FIGURE 62
Clipper-holding
position #3.
clipper is switched to the left hand while cutting hair
sections from a different direction.
FYI
2. An alternative method is to place the thumb on the
left side of the unit and the fingers on the right
side, with the blades pointing up (Figure 61). Like
the holding position in Figure 60, some may find
this a comfortable position for tapering around
the hairline.
The position of the clipper
blades relative to the skin and the hair’s
density and texture will determine the
length of the hair that is left after
cutting. Remember that angling the
clipper blades toward the scalp or out
toward the hair ends will produce
3. Figure 62 shows an alternative underhand position
that may be used when working the top section
of a haircut from a side-view position.
different results.
Razors
As the sharpest and closest cutting tool, razors are used for facial shaves, neck shaves, finish work around the sideburn and
behind-the-ear areas, and haircutting. The razor of choice for
professional barbering is the straight razor; safety razors should
not be used to render professional services in the barbershop.
There are two types of straight razors: the changeableblade straight razor and the conventional straight razor, which
requires honing and stropping to maintain its cutting edge.
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
FIGURE 63
Parts of a razor.
Both may be purchased with a razor guard. The razor guard is
an attachment that is used in razor-cutting the hair. The
changeable-blade razor generally looks the same as the conventional straight razor and is used in the same manner. The benefits of using the changeable-blade straight razor are the easy
replacement of blades from one client service to another and
the maintenance of sanitation standards in the barbershop.
Also, it is usually lighter and saves time because it eliminates the
need for honing and stropping. The structural parts of both
conventional and changeable-blade straight razors are the
head, back, shoulder, tang, shank, heel, edge, point, blade,
pivot, and handle (Figure 63).
Changing the Blade
Always follow the manufacturer’s directions for inserting a new
blade or removing an old blade from a changeable-blade razor.
Some razor models are designed with a screw mechanism that
releases the blade; others require a sliding motion for blade insertion and removal. The following guidelines explain the sliding motion method of blade replacement, as illustrated in
Figures 64 and 65.
1. Hold razor firmly above the joint of the handle and
shank. Use the teeth of the razor guard to catch the
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
FIGURE 64
Removing the blade.
FIGURE 65
Correct blade
insertion.
blade and push it out of the razor (Figure 64). Always
store used blades in a sharps container until ready for
disposal.
2. To insert a new blade, position the end of the blade
into the razor groove. Use the teeth of the razor
guard to slide the blade in until it clicks into position
(Figure 65).
NOTE: Some razor blade packaging is designed to act as a blade
dispenser. The razor groove is slid over the top of the blade
from the side of the dispenser until the blade is in place.
Holding the Changeable-Blade Razor
There are several methods of holding the razor, depending on
the service being performed. Some of these will be covered later
in this book. Others are covered in the shaving portion of Professional Services for Men: Facial Massage and Hair Design. However,
you should practice and become familiar with the basic holding
positions as follows:
1. The ball of the thumb supports the razor at the
bottom of the shank between the blade and the
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
FIGURE 66
Holding the razor
properly.
FIGURE 67
Alternate method of
holding.
pivot. The handle is angled up, allowing the little
finger to rest on the tang. Place the index finger
along the back of the razor for control, with the two
middle fingers resting comfortably along the top of
the shank (Figure 66).
2. The razor is also held in a straightened position with
the finger placement, as shown in Figure 67. This
holding technique may also be used during haircutting services.
3. To palm the razor, curl in the ring finger and little
finger around the handle. Hold the comb between
the thumb, index, and middle fingers (Figure 68).
Lather Receptacles
Lather receptacles are containers used to hold or dispense
lather for shaving. The most basic and commonly used types are
the electric latherizer, the press-button-can latherizer, and the
lather mug with paper lining. Electric latherizers are sanitary, convenient, and easy to operate (Figure 69). The sanitary and preheated lather coming from these modern machines impresses
most clients favorably. For satisfactory performance, follow the
manufacturer’s instructions on their proper use and care. Pressbutton-can latherizers are convenient and sanitary, but they are
not as professional as electric latherizers. Lather mugs are receptacles made out of glass, earthenware, rubber, or metal. When
the lather mug is used, shaving soap and warm water are mixed
FIGURE 68
and comb.
Palming the razor
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HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
FIGURE 69
STATE BOARD REGULATIONS
Check your state barber board
The electric latherizer is far superior to other lather receptacles.
thoroughly with the aid of a lather brush. Because the lather
mug is exposed and collects dirt easily, it requires thorough
cleansing and disinfection after each client.
rules and regulations concerning the
use and disinfection of lather mugs and
Hair Removal
brushes.
Hair removal methods have changed over the years. The neck
duster, once a traditional implement in barbershops, is no
longer a safe and sanitary option for hair removal unless sanitized after each use. Because a number of states have forbidden
the use of hair dusters, other methods are now used to remove
loose hair. Some methods that are in compliance with state and
local health codes include:
1. A paper or cloth towel folded around the barber’s
hand can be used to dust off loose hair.
2. Paper neck strips can be used, but may not facilitate
a very thorough dusting.
SECTION 1 HAIR CUTTING AND STYLING
3. Small electric hand vacuums and air hoses are other
options being employed.
NOTE: The electric hair vacuum provides quick cleanup service
after a haircut. It can remove hair clippings and loose dandruff,
and is particularly suitable for going over the forehead and
around the neck and ears. Be sure to sanitize the nozzle
applicator after each use and empty the container as hair
accumulates within it.
HAIRCUTTING TECHNIQUES
There are several different ways to cut hair. These
procedures are classified as fingers-and-shear, shear-over-comb,
freehand clipper cutting, clipper-over-comb, razor-over-comb,
and razor rotation. It is important to note, however, that almost
every haircutting procedure requires the use of a combination
of techniques and tools. The most important factors that determine the tools chosen to achieve the haircut are the client’s desired outcome, the texture and density of the hair, and the
barber’s personal preference. As a professional barber you
should be comfortable and skillful with using all the tools of the
trade described thus far.
Practice the following techniques and procedures to become familiar with different methods of using your tools.
The Fingers-and-Shear Technique
The fingers-and-shear technique may be used on many hair
types, from straight to curly. Three basic methods exist for using
the fingers-and-shear technique: cutting on top of the fingers,
cutting below the fingers, and cutting palm-to-palm.
NOTE: The blades of the shears should rest flat and flush to the
fingers for these positions. Angling the shear blades may cause
injury.
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