1. style and fashion
2. beauty
3. hair care

Smoot
hing & St
raightening
SERVICES
Long-lasting styling solutions
L’Oréal Professionnel offers a
range of long-lasting smoothing
and straightening services
which alter the structure of the
hair to achieve a particular style.
These services not only offer your clients long-lasting
style results, but also the most innovative technologies
which provide optimum care and condition for the hair
so that the final result is glossy, silky and beautifully
smooth or straight.
This technical guide is designed to provide you with
all the information to create long-lasting smooth and
straight hair for your clients.
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Diagnostic
During the consultation with your client it is
important to ask the right questions. The hair type
of the client and the effect they are looking for
will determine what smoothing or straightening
service you will use for their hair. Use this
diagnostic tool to help you find the right product
for your client’s needs.
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What result does the client want to achieve?
Ultra
Straight
Straight, with
natural movement
Less volume and
looser curls
X-TENSO®
CERA THERMIC
X-TENSO®
MOISTURIST™
X-TENSO®
MOISTURIST™
Long-lasting
perfectly straight result
Satin Smoothing
Technique
Long-lasting naturally
smooth effect
Curl Calming
Technique
De-volumises tight
curls into softer waves
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X-Tenso® MoisturistTM
X-Tenso® Moisturist
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Long-lasting natural smoothness
for rebellious curly hair
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The Services
Curl Calming
Pre-Treatment Protection
X-Tenso® Moisturist can be used with two different techniques to
create different style results for your clients.
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Use the Curl Calming technique if your client has voluminous tight
curls and would love to transform them into softer waves.
Satin Smoothing
Use the Satin Smoothing technique if your client has rebellious,
curly frizzy hair and longs for a straight look with natural movement.
Science & Technology
Présifon Advanced
To ensure the hair is perfectly protected and prepared
for the texture service, use Présifon Advanced as a
pre-treatment, which uses Autoreticular technology
to smooth the scales of the cuticle from root to tip.
Reduction Phase
At the time of reduction, the smoothing
cream separates the disulphide bonds.
X-Tenso® Moisturist smoothes the hair,
adding condition and shine.
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Technological Innovation
Increased conditioning and smoothing
X-Tenso® Moisturist not only contains softening waxes to boost
the hair’s condition, but it also works with the new intelligent NutriCationic Technology, which allows active treatment ingredients to
be delivered to where they are most needed on the hair.
Straightening phase
The Nutri-Cationic Technology creates an
internal cohesion, controlling the smoothing
of the hair fibre.
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Fixing phase
When X-Tenso® Moisturist is applied to the hair, this treatment
cocktail leaves the hair shiny, soft and supple.
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The hair is then smoothed mechanically
allowing the keratin chains to move into their
new shape and the disulphide links to set.
Clients with Highlights
The new technology now enables you to use X-Tenso® Moisturist
on those clients who have 20% of evenly distributed highlights.
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X-Tenso® Moisturist Neutralising Cream
contains a new patented emulsion technology
to create a light and creamy texture that rinses
off very easily and leaves the hair smoother,
silky and more conditioned.
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The Steps
STEP 1: DIAGNOSIS
How to carry out a test meche
• Examine the scalp and check the skin is free of damage or flakiness
• Isolate a small 2cm x 2cm section
• Check the quality of the hair from roots to ends, to make sure it is in good
condition before carrying out this service – refer to the table below
• Apply X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing cream suitable for the hair type to
the section. (Do not cover)
• Consult the client on the past history of their hair and use the table below to
choose the appropriate cream for their hair
• Allow to develop for the recommended time
• If in any doubt, carry out a test meche, following the directions on the next
page. If the hair is damaged or broken after the test, do not continue with the
application
• Apply X-Tenso® Moisturist Neutralising Cream for 5 minutes.
Re-apply for a further 5 minutes
There are 3 cream strengths:
Natural Resistant cream for strong, voluminous
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• Rinse thoroughly
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• Rinse thoroughly for 3 minutes
• Check results. If the hair is damaged or broken after the test, do not
continue with the application
hair, with no colour and in good condition
Natural cream for hair in good condition, with no colour, which is slightly wavy, frizzy or unmanageable
Sensitised cream for sensitised hair including
coloured hair in good condition, but is curly and/or frizzy
HAIR TYPE
X-Tenso® MoisturistTM
Natural
X-Tenso® MoisturistTM
Sensitised
Naturally strong, resistant hair
YES
NO
NO
Strong, voluminous straight or wavy hair
YES
NO
NO
Natural hair
NO
YES
NO
Natural hair to natural fine, fly-away hair
NO
YES
NO
Texturised hair
NO
NO
YES
Previously smoothed hair with X-Tenso®
NO
NO
YES
Coloured hair in good condition
NO
YES
YES
Partially coloured hair (<50%)
NO
NO
YES
Very sensitised coloured hair
DO NOT USE X-TENSO® MoisturistTM
Bleached hair
DO NOT USE X-TENSO® MoisturistTM
Hair with more than 20% of highlights
DO NOT USE X-TENSO® MoisturistTM
Previously straightened hair
Hair treated with henna or metallic salts
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See Pages 32-35 for all Health and Safety Instructions.
CREAM SELECTION
X-Tenso® MoisturistTM
Natural Resistant
Hair with 20% evenly distributed highlights
NB: Test meche can be carried out before or on the day of the
client’s appointment.
NO
NO
YES
TEST MECHE
TEST MECHE
TEST MECHE
DO NOT USE X-TENSO® MoisturistTM
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Curl CalmingTechnique
STEP 2: PREPARATION (5 minutes)
STEP 4: DEVELOPMENT (15-20 minutes)
• Shampoo using L’Oréal Professionnel Optimiseur
Pré-Forme shampoo and towel-dry the hair
• Develop at room temperature:
Natural & Natural Resistant cream: 20 minutes
Sensitised cream: 15 minutes
• Apply Présifon Advanced evenly through all sections
of the hair
The development times include your 5 minute
application time. Start your timer as soon as you
begin the application.
STEP 3: APPLICATION (5 minutes)
• Using the edge of the hand, continue to smooth
the hair during the development process
Always wear suitable gloves during mixing,
application and removal of the product from the hair.
STEP 5: FIXING (15 minutes)
Global application
•P
lace approximately half a tube (125ml) of your chosen
X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Cream into a
non-metallic bowl
• Rinse carefully and thoroughly for 3 minutes.
Gently towel-dry the hair
• Detangle the hair and divide into 4 sections
• DO NOT COMB THE HAIR AT ANY TIME
• Secure with non-metallic clips
• In a non-metallic bowl, pour 80ml of X-Tenso®
Moisturist Neutralising Cream
Partial application or follow-up applications
• Detangle the hair and identify the areas requiring an
X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Service. In the case of
follow-up applications it is necessary to have at least
4cm of regrowth
• With a sponge or a brush start applying the Neutralising
Cream 1cm from the scalp at the nape, meche by
meche, and continue to smooth hair during the fixing
process. Leave for 5 minutes
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• Protect remaining hair
In all cases
•S
tarting with the nape area, apply the X-Tenso® Moisturist
Smoothing Cream 1cm from the scalp, meche by meche,
to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair
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• Pour a further 40ml of Neutralising Cream into the bowl
and reapply in the same way. Leave for an additional
5 minutes
• Rinse thoroughly for 3 minutes
STEP 6: FINISH (15 minutes)
• Do not allow the product to touch the scalp
• Condition the hair with série expert liss ultime masque
• Using your fingers, continue to smooth the hair meche by
meche during application
• Blow-dry and style as client desires
• In total, your application should take no longer
than 5 minutes
TOTAL SERVICE TIME: 1 HOUR
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STEP 4: DEVELOPMENT (15-20 minutes)
Sat
in Smoot
hingTechnique
• Develop at room temperature:
Natural & Natural Resistant cream: 20 minutes
Sensitised cream: 15 minutes
The development times include your 5 minute application
time. Start your timer as soon as you begin the application.
STEP 2: PREPARATION (5 minutes)
• Using the edge of the hand, continue to smooth the hair during
the development process
• Shampoo using L’Oréal Professionnel Optimiseur
Pré-Forme shampoo and towel-dry the hair
STEP 5: DRYING (10 minutes)
• Apply Présifon Advanced evenly through all sections
of the hair
• Rinse carefully and thoroughly for 3 minutes. Gently towel
dry the hair
STEP 3: APPLICATION (5 minutes)
• Using a dryer, blast dry until hair is 80% dry
Always wear suitable gloves during mixing,
application and removal of the product from the hair.
STEP 6: APPLYING STRAIGHTENING IRONS (20 minutes)
•P
re-heat the straightening irons to 180°C
Global application
•P
lace approximately half a tube (125ml) of your chosen
X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Cream into a
non-metallic bowl
• Starting at the nape, isolate one meche (2-3cm) of hair
• Beginning 1cm from the roots, smooth the hair with the straightening irons, allowing them to slowly glide along the
length of the hair to the very ends in one continuous movement
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• Detangle the hair and divide into 4 sections
• Repeat 2 times on each meche until all of the hair is straight
and smooth
• Secure with non-metallic clips
• Do not rinse
Partial application or follow-up applications
• Detangle the hair and identify the areas requiring an
X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Service. In the case of
follow-up applications it is necessary to have at least
4cm of regrowth
STEP 7: FIXING (15 minutes)
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• Apply 80ml of X-Tenso® Moisturist Neutralising Cream section by section to dry hair. Leave for 5 minutes
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• Protect remaining hair
In all cases
•S
tarting with the nape area, apply the X-Tenso® Moisturist
Smoothing Cream 1cm from the scalp, meche by meche,
to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair
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• Re-apply a further 40ml of Neutralising Cream to the
hair and leave for 5 minutes
• Rinse thoroughly for 3 minutes
STEP 8: FINISH (15 minutes)
• Do not allow the product to touch the scalp
• Condition the hair with série expert liss ultime masque
• Using your fingers, continue to smooth the hair meche by
meche during application
• Blow-dry and style as client desires
• In total, your application should take no longer
than 5 minutes
TOTAL SERVICE TIME: 1 ½ HOURS
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Tips
20% Highlights
6. Highlighted hair?
1. Colouring hair on the same day?
You can colour hair on the same day as an X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing
Service using the following products:
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• Symbio (Direct colour)
• Richesse de Diacolor or Diacolor Gelée (Tone-on-tone colour)
(with a reduced development time of 5 minutes for reflect, 10 minutes
for coverage)
Two weeks after an X-Tenso® Moisturist service you can colour the hair
with: Majirel, Majimèches, Luocolor, Hi.Richesse, Platinium, Platinium Plus,
Ammonia-Free or Composite.
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• If the highlighted area is localised, for example at the front, isolate the front section using Easi Meche Ultra or high quality foils (use exclusively ref Soft Alloy 8079, 20μm or Soft Alloy 1200 18μm), then apply X-Tenso® Moisturist
to the remaining hair.
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• If your client has no more than 20% of evenly
distributed highlights (see image opposite), use X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Cream for sensitised hair.
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• If your client has more than 20% of highlights, do not apply X-Tenso® Moisturist .
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A skin allergy test must be done 48 hours before every use of any hair
colourant product.
7. X-Tenso® Moisturist on coloured hair?
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If you do not follow the L’Oréal Professionnel 3-step professional safety
protocol, a SKIN ALLERGY TEST must be done 48 hours before each
application every time.
The X-Tenso Moisturist service is suitable for natural hair, natural resistant hair
and sensitised hair – including coloured hair in good condition. For optimum
results apply Présifon Advanced before your application.
2. Can you apply X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Cream
to the scalp?
8. X-Tenso® Moisturist to soften a perm?
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Do not apply X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Cream to the scalp. Make sure
you apply the product at least 1cm from the scalp.
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®
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You can use X-Tenso® Moisturist to soften a perm, but remember to use the
X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing Cream for sensitised hair.
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9. Follow-up application
Before you repeat an X-Tenso® Moisturist Smoothing service, it is necessary to
have a minimum of 4cm fresh regrowth before you reapply X-Tenso® Moisturist :
approximately 3 months.
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3. How long will the service last?
Depending on the hair type, the service will last for up to 60 days. But
remember the effects of X-Tenso® Moisturist will remain in the hair. This must
be considered when carrying out subsequent applications.
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10. Very thick hair
4. Application
Do not carry out an X-Tenso® Moisturist service on unwashed or dry hair. For
the perfect smooth look, it is necessary to shampoo the hair before application.
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5. Partial effects or follow-up applications
You can use X-Tenso® Moisturist to obtain partial effects.
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If your client has extremely thick hair, divide the hair into two sections (front &
back). Use X-Tenso® Moisturist on the back section first and develop, fix and
neutralise. Now repeat the whole process on the front section to ensure you
respect application and development times.
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If you have any other questions, please contact the
L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on: 0800 0304 034
or for ROI: 1800 535 616
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For further information about L’Oréal Professionnel’s Smoothing and Straightening
Services please contact The L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on:
UK: 0800 0304 034
ROI: 1800 535 616