WHAT YOU’LL NEED Take this into store with you to make sure you get everything in one trip. For this project the following materials and equipment are required: MATERIALS: Timber piles (125mm x 125mm H5 treated Radiata) Bearers (150mm x 50mm H3.2 treated Radiata) Stringer (150mm x 50mm H3.2 treated Radiata) Joists (150mm x 50mm H3.2 treated Radiata) Decking (40mm H3.2 treated Radiata) Pre-mixed concrete OR builders mix and cement Galvanised 100mm flathead nails Galvanised U-nails OR galvanised steel strap with 30mm galvanised flathead nails for fixing OR galvanised pile-to-bearer fixings with 30mm galvansied flathead nails Galvanised M12 diameter coach bolts (for fixing stringer to side of house) Spacing Pile Foundations (see diagram 6) Run a string line between pegs or from profiles at the desired depth, width and length of deck. Locate corner piles and set out pile positions along string line and mark on the ground (see diagram 1). Piles should be spaced at maximum centres of 1.3m along the lines of the bearers and at maximum centres of 1.9m along the lines of the joists. D ig holes with a post hole borer or a spade to a minimum depth of 450mm plus an extra 100mm for concrete pad. Positioning of Bearers T he double 150 x 50 H3.2 Radiata bearers on top of the shaped head pile are to be connected to the pile with two galvanised or stainless steel post-to-bearer ties on each side. NOTE: The ‘exposed’ area on the head of the pile is trimmed at a 45 degree angle to prevent water from pooling on top. DIAGRAM 6 Clean out holes of any loose material. Place piles in holes on a concrete pad 100mm thick. Check for plumb with a spirit level and face alignment to within 1mm of string line. NOTE: Constantly check alignment is square. T ack temporary braces to pile and ground pegs for final position. HOW TO BUILD A DECK F ill holes with concrete, taking care to ensure the post is vertical. The concrete may be bagged, pre-mixed, dry concrete or a 6:1 ratio of builders mix and cement, mixed with water to a stiff mix. ompact the concrete into the hole around piles with C a stick to remove air pockets. Leave the concrete to set around piles for at least 48 hours. DIAGRAM 4 Decking nails TOOLS: DOUBLE 150 x 50 String line Hammer 2 PILE-TO-BEARER FIXINGS Ruler J oists used in this brochure’s example are 150 x 50 Radiata H3.2, spaced 450mm apart, centre to centre. Cut joists to length and square. Leave a gap where they meet the house to allow for moisture to drain away. Skew nail bottom of joist to bearers on each side (see diagram 3). Tape measure Pencil Electric drill and set of wood boring bits Square Spirit level Hand saw Chisel Adjustable spanner Circular saw Sledge hammer Spade Fix Decking Joists DIAGRAM 5 Lay Decking hen laying decking boards, start from the furthest W outer edge of the deck and work inwards. reate a 15mm setback from board edge to fascia C plate. Check spacing as you go to ensure boards are square and running true to line. (Tip: Curved boards may be straightened using a suitable pry bar.) utt boards hard up to each other to allow for B shrinkage. T he last board against the house may have to be scribed to fit and reduced in width. REORDER CODE: EA1250B1 Scan WITH YOUR SMARTPHONE QR APP or view online at Mitre10.co.nz GETTING STARTED repare a sketch plan outline of your deck with P dimensions, indicating boundaries and existing site features. T he design should complement the house - it needs to be functional and have aesthetic appeal. referably locate it on the warm, sunny side of the P home or facing the view. ave privacy, sun and shelter from prevailing wind H and weather. e compatible with existing landscape, garden B planting and pools. e clear of any sub soil drains and services, (eg B electricity, gas, water, or sewer lines). ave safety features, such as hand rails (required for H decks that are 1 metre or more above ground), nonslip surfaces and adequate bracing. Check ground conditions and contour. pproach the Local Authority or Council to ascertain A whether Resource and/or Building Consent is required before construction starts. Kiwis love the great outdoors. Even when we’re at home we’d rather be out on the deck. But nothing quite matches the satisfaction of a deck you’ve built yourself. This guide will show you how to do it. As DIY projects go, a deck may seem like an ambitious project, but taken step-by-step, building a deck is pretty straightforward. These instructions are for a simple, 3.6 metre by 3.6 metre deck, sitting 0.75 metres above the ground, but the same principles apply whether it’s a bigger area or higher off the ground. With higher decks, consideration needs to be given to bracing and handrails. Usually a deck will be attached to the house on one side and this example will show you how to do that. REMEMBER TO CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL AUTHORITY OR COUNCIL heck for any possible infringements near boundaries. C For example, decks less than 1.5 metres above ground and 10 metres square may not need to go through consent procedures. Ideally, decks are located on houses or buildings that have ready indoor/outdoor access from living areas. etermine the deck’s size and area to accommodate D people and furniture. For instance, a deck that is 1.8 metres wide is the absolute minimum width to accommodate a standard table and four chairs. Mitre 10 Handy Hints: • Save effort by buying timber cut to the closest length at Mitre 10. • Always remember to measure twice - cut once. building your deck Select a datum point (a standard measurement point) generally the existing floor level. Set the finished deck level below this datum point. In some situations the New Zealand Building Code requires a step down to an open framed permeable deck (your Local Authority or Council will be able to advise you). Determine a working height to set the profile boards. In this brochure, the deck profile boards are set at the top of the bearers and ledger (see diagram 1). B Identify the length of the deck along the wall of the house. From position A string a level line through to position B (see diagram 1). A t points A and B drive a nail or cup hook. From each point (A and B) run a string line at right angles. The string line should be the length of the deck plus 600mm (working clearance) for profile locations. A STAY SAFE: Erect profile boards at the determined height. S et string lines for correct level and deck size (see diagram 1). Check everything is square by using the 3-4-5 triangle method and equal length diagonals (see diagram 2). Do not damage string lines and check positions are consistently correct and taut. DIAGRAM 2 M ark positions on existing house wall of solid framing for ledger bolt locations. Set ledger wall plate the length of A to B. Cut packers and shape to fit weatherboard or cladding angle if necessary (see diagram 3). Lay bituminous damp proof coarse behind ledger packers. Fix ledger on packers to solid framing with 2 x M12 coach screws at a maximum spacing of 1.2 metres centre to centre (see diagram 3). The New Zealand Building Code requires a minimum separation of 12mm between the wall cladding and a timber slat deck so that water will not become trapped. This separation can be provided by 12mm x 150mm long H3.2 packers at bolt fixings. Alternatively the junction between the decking and the stringer can be protected by the installation of weatherproof flashing. Mitre 10 Handy Hints: IMPORTANT: BRACING REQUIREMENTS FOR DECKS Any deck that projects more than 2 metres from a building requires bracing. New Zealand Standard 3604 (1999) sets out the requirements, while geographical location also has an impact on the requirements for bracing. If the deck you are planning projects more than 2 metres from the building then it is recommended that additional expert advice be sought from your Local Authority or an appropriately qualified expert. DIAGRAM 1 • The 3-4-5 triangle method: to establish square, measure 300mm along one string line from the intersection where the string lines meet. Then measure 400mm along the other string line from the same point. Then measure on a diagonal between those two points. If the string lines are square, this measurement should be 500mm. If not, it will then need to be adjusted and re-measured until these measurements are correct. The use of power tools makes the completion of projects much easier, but appropriate safety equipment when using power tools is strongly recommended. Ear protection, eye wear and sturdy footwear should be considered the minimum requirement when using power tools and always use a residual current device when using electric power tools. DIAGRAM 3 Limitation of Liability This project planner has been produced to provide basic information and our experienced staff are available to answer any questions you may have. Because this planner is general in nature, neither your Mitre 10 supplier nor their staff are responsible for the application of these design principles in any particular case, as the contents of this brochure may need to be modified for the particular site and circumstances. Mitre 10 is not responsible for the quality of work carried out on the goods by the consumer and is not responsible for the design or construction of any structure in which the goods are incorporated. Where applicable consumers should ensure that they comply with The New Zealand Building Code and/or Local Body Bylaws in respect of any such structures. Consumers are advised to call a qualified tradesman such as a builder, electrician or plumber where expert services are required. Mitre 10 will not be liable for any consequential loss howsoever arising from the use of goods sold, nor for any loss caused by defective or inadequate structures in which goods are incorporated. For more Easy As Guides visit mitre10.co.nz