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DOUBLE WELT POCKET
This double welt pocket tutorial is written for the Nina skirt & culottes pattern but the pockets can be added to any skirt, pair of pants or culottes. The welt pocket placement can be found on the Nina skirt & culottes pattern. This picture shows the result after you’ve finished. Double welt pockets are a great technique for advanced seamstresses. If you’ve never sewn a double welt pocket before I advise you to practise on a piece of scrap first. Good luck! Copy the welt pocket placement rectangle onto the wrong side of the fabric. Draw horizontal line in the middle of the opening and add clip lines as shown on the picture below. Cut a pocket piece (can be contrasting) with this dimensions for all sizes: 14cm wide x 28,5cm high.
We’ll copy the top line of the opening towards the front by using this little trick: Put two pins trough the top line of the rectangle turn the fabric and connect both to copy this line. Draw a parallel line 3,5cm above the first one. To determine the middle of the welt pocket, we’ll use the same trick again. Put a pin through the wrong side of the fabric. Turn around and copy this line to the right side of your fabric. Pin the pocket to the right side of the fabric as shown below. Sew two horizontal lines onto the rectangle we’ve drawn before. It’s really important that both lines are exactly the same length. Start and stop sewing at exactly the same horizontal position. With these lines we’ll create the rectangular opening. The accuracy of this step determines the final result. Cut on the lines you’ve drawn before to create the rectangular opening. Cut towards the corners. Not too far, but far enough. J Pull the pocket piece through the opening towards the back. Press. At this stage you should have a perfectly shaped rectangle. (Go to the other tutorial for faux double welt pocket). Cut away 2mm of the top edge and bottom edges of the new raw edges we’ve created. This is to compensate the thickness of your fabric when creating the pocket. Fold the top part of the cut fabric and the pocket piece down. Make sure the fabric at the corners is beautifully flat. Fold upwards again. The edge of the fabric should be in the middle op the opening at 7,5mm from the edge. Repeat this step for the bottom part. Topstitch around the pocket at 2mm from the rectangular opening. Turn the pocket around and fold the flap double to create a pocket. Close the side and top edges by sewing around at presser foot width. This should be the result. Congrats!