1. style and fashion
2. beauty
3. hair care

Tim Hartley for Davines
cutting
hair
GH12
Great hairdressing starts with
a great haircut! Hair cutting is
the foundation for all new looks
and the best way to maintain an
existing hairstyle. Your cutting
skills are among the most
important you will need as a
hairdresser and they all start
here in this unit! First you will
learn the basics but as your
skills develop, you will learn
how to adapt your work to
personalise each look to the
client’s features. This will help
you build a loyal client base and
a successful hairdressing career.
Level 2 NVQ/SVQ Hairdressing
“
”
All great haircuts require
good technique and
imagination. However,
without the basics in place,
this won’t be possible.
Andrew Collinge
Evidence requirements
You must practically demonstrate in your
everyday work that you have met the standards
for cutting a variety of looks on both hair types.
The standards cover things that you must do
(performance criteria), things that you must
cover (range) and things that you must know.
What you must do
Your assessor will observe your performance on
at least eight occasions – two for each cutting
look (fringes can be incorporated into any of the
cutting looks). These looks must include a one
length above the shoulder, and a short
graduation incorporating the use of scissor over
comb. You must do correctly all the things listed
under ‘What you must do’ on the sign-off sheets
that follow.
Simulation is not allowed for any performance
evidence within this unit. It is likely most
evidence of your performance will be gathered
from the observations made by your assessor
but you may be required to produce other
evidence to support your performance if your
assessor has not been present.
chick crop
Agyness Deyn’s rockquirky and fun
complements her
personality.
Image courtesy of Goldwell
This unit has three
outcomes. As they
are linked, you can
be observed by your
assessor for all three
outcomes at the
same time.
Outcome 1
Maintain effective
and safe methods
of working when
cutting hair
Outcome 2
Cut hair to achieve
a variety of looks
Outcome 3
Provide aftercare
advice
Photograph by Richard Stonehouse, Camera Press London
130
Image courtesy of Goldwell
Unit GH12 (City & Guilds Unit 018)
Cut hair using basic techniques
Mandatory
Image courtesy of Goldwell
What you must cover
You will see key words in bold on the ‘What you
must do’ list. For each of these, there is a range
of things that you must cover. You must show
that you have:
Adapted your
cutting technique to
take into account the
following factors:
hair density
hair texture
head and face shape
hair growth patterns
hair elasticity
Used all of the
following cutting
techniques:
club cutting
freehand
scissors over comb
Achieved all of the
following looks:
one length
uniform layer
short graduation
long graduation
with a fringe
Cut the following
hair types:
curly
straight
Given the following
advice:
how to maintain
their look
time interval between
services
What you must know
You will be assessed on your knowledge of
the following:
Salon and legal requirements
How to work safely, effectively and hygienically
when cutting hair
Hair
Cutting techniques
Aftercare advice for clients
Communication
This will be completed through written and oral
questioning by your assessor, or by an online
GOLA test. For details of what you must know,
see pages 138–140.
Cutting hair
Useful words
Some terms that you will come across in
this unit are explained below.
Basic uniform layer All the
sections of the hair are the same
length, as shown here.
Club cutting (or blunt cutting) The most basic
way of cutting sections of hair is straight across,
parallel to the index and middle finger.
Factors You must adapt your cutting
technique to take into account certain
characteristics of your client’s hair and
appearance (see the ‘What you must cover’
section for a list of the different factors).
Freehand cutting The cutting of hair without
holding it in place.
Hair elasticity How much the hair can be
stretched and return to its original length. Hair
that has been bleached or tinted will have
impaired elasticity.
Long graduation The inner
layers of the hair lengths are
shorter than the outline shape,
as shown here.
One length cut The hair is cut at
the same outside length, as
shown here.
Scissors over comb The cutting of hair using
the comb as a guide for the scissors. This is often
used when cutting short hair.
Short graduation The inner
layers of the hair lengths are
longer than the outline shape, as
shown here.
131
Observation sign-off sheet
Unit GH12 Cut hair using basic
techniques
What you must do
Level 2 NVQ/SVQ Hairdressing
Within your work
you must show
your assessor that
you can do the
following. You will
be observed a
number of times (as
a guide, at
least twice for
each look).
Outcome 1
Each time you
achieve all the
points listed within
a single client
service, your
assessor will tick
the circle and enter
the date.
Maintain effective and safe methods of
working when cutting hair
a Ensure your client’s clothing is effectively
protected throughout the service
b Ensure your client’s skin is kept free of excess
hair cuttings throughout the service
c Position your client to meet the needs of the
service without causing them discomfort
d Ensure your own posture and position whilst
working minimises fatigue and the risk of injury
e Keep your work area clean and tidy
throughout the service
f Remove waste immediately at the end of
the service
g Use working methods that:
– minimise the risk of damage to tools
– minimise the risk of cross-infection
– make effective use of your working time
– ensure the use of clean resources
– minimise the risk of harm or injury to
yourself and others
h Ensure your personal standards of health and
hygiene minimise the risk of cross-infection,
infestation and offence to your clients
and colleagues
i Use tools that are safe and fit for purpose
j Complete the service within a commercially
viable time
Wet hair c
of its leng an stretch by up t
the hair i th. Adjust your cu o a third
sn’t too sho
t
rt when itting so
’s dry.
Observation
Achieved
Date
Candidate signature
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Assessor signature
IV signature (if sampled)
Continues on next page
Image courtesy of istockphoto
132
Outcome 2
Cut hair to achieve a variety of looks
a Correctly establish the factors likely to
influence the service
b Confirm with your client the look agreed at
consultation prior to commencing the cut
c Accurately establish and follow the cutting
guideline(s) to achieve the look required
d Control your tools to minimise the risk of
damage to the hair and scalp, client
discomfort and to achieve the desired look
e Use cutting techniques suitable for your
client’s hair type and to achieve the
desired look
f Adapt your cutting techniques to take
account of the factors that influence
the service
g Change your position around your client in
a way that helps you to ensure the accuracy
of the cut
h Establish accurate distribution of weight,
balance and shape by regularly crosschecking the cut
i Remove any unwanted hair outside the
desired outline shape
j Consult with your client during the cutting
process to confirm the desired look
k Make a final visual check of the hair to
ensure the finished cut is accurate
l Confirm your client’s satisfaction with the
finished cut
Cutting hair
A fringe
any of thecan be combined w
ith
other looks
.
*
Observation
Achieved
Date
Candidate signature
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Assessor signature
IV signature (if sampled)
*
Covered by observation
Covered by oral questioning
Date
Date
Continues on next page
8
133
Observation sign-off sheet
Unit GH12 Cut hair using basic
techniques
What you must do (continued)
Level 2 NVQ/SVQ Hairdressing
Outcome 3
Provide aftercare advice
a Give advice and recommendations
accurately and constructively
b Give your client suitable advice on the
maintenance of their cut
Observation
Achieved
Date
Candidate signature
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Assessor signature
IV signature (if sampled)
Timing tip
The maximum
commercially
viable service
time for cutting
hair is
45 minutes.
-shaped face,
rt
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a
s
a
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a
n
n
a
Rih
ge suits her
in
fr
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ep
sw
ed
si
er
h
so
face shape.
Photograph by Alain Martin, Camera Press London
134
Observation sign-off sheet
Unit GH12 Cut hair using basic
techniques
What you must cover
Cutting hair
Before ticking the circles below, you must make sure that you have
achieved ‘What you must cover’ in all the outcomes in which it occurs.
Factors
Tick the factors considered for each observation. All factors must be considered.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Hair density
Hair texture
Head and face shape
Hair growth patterns
Hair elasticity
Look
Tick the look achieved for each observation. Each look must be achieved twice.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
One length
Uniform layer
Short graduation
Long graduation
With a fringe
Techniques
Tick the techniques used for each observation. All techniques must be used.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Club cutting
Freehand
Scissors over comb
Hair types
Tick the hair type for each observation. Both hair types must be worked on.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Curly
Straight
Continues on next page
135
Observation sign-off sheet
Unit GH12 Cut hair using basic
techniques
What you must cover (continued)
Level 2 NVQ/SVQ Hairdressing
Advice
Tick the advice given in each observation. Both must be given.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
How to maintain their
look
Time interval between
services
Observation
Achieved
Date
Candidate signature
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Assessor signature
IV signature (if sampled)
Image courtesy of istockphoto.com
136
on how to make
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A
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.
you a good reputa on
Comment form
Unit GH12
Cutting hair
This form can be used to record oral questioning,
or for assessor/candidate comments, if required.
Comments
1
2
3
Image courtesy of Denman
4
5
6
7
8
Date
137
Knowledge sign-off sheet
Unit GH12 Cut hair using basic
techniques
What you must know
138
Level 2 NVQ/SVQ Hairdressing
You will be assessed
on your knowledge
and understanding
of all the following
points. This will be
completed by your
assessor, either
by asking you
questions within
a conversation, or
with a written test
(evidence type E3).
This could be an
online GOLA test.
Your assessor will
let you know how
s/he intends to
assess you.
Some areas appear
in more than one
unit (shaded in
darker pink). These
are covered in a
cross-unit
knowledge test.
You only need to
be tested on
these once.
Once you have been
assessed on each
point, you can fill
in the date and
reference any
written evidence
that you’ve put in
your portfolio.
You need to understand:
Salon and legal requirements
1 your salon’s requirements for client
preparation
2 your salon’s expected service times for the
looks in the range
3 your salon’s and legal requirements for
disposal of waste materials
How to work safely, effectively and
hygienically when cutting hair
4 the range of protective clothing that should
be available for clients
5 why it is important to protect clients from
hair clippings
6 how the position of your client and yourself
can affect the desired outcome and reduce
fatigue and the risk of injury
7 the safety considerations which must be
taken into account when cutting hair
8 why it is important to avoid cross-infection
and infestation
9 why it is important to keep your work area
clean and tidy
10 why it is important to position your cutting
tools for ease of use
11 methods of cleaning, disinfecting and/or
sterilisation used in salons
12 the methods of working safely and hygienically
and which minimise the risks of cross-infection
and cross-infestation
13 the correct use and maintenance of
cutting tools
14 the importance of personal hygiene
Evidence type
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
Continues on next page
You need to understand:
Hair
15 the factors that must be taken into
consideration prior to and during cutting
(eg hair types, hair density, hair growth
patterns, etc) and how these affect the service
16 the factors which should be considered when
cutting wet hair and dry hair
17 the average rate of hair growth
Cutting techniques
18 how the factors in the range can affect the
way the hair is cut
19 why it is important to check the hair before
and after shampooing prior to cutting
20 the importance of consulting with clients
throughout the cutting process
21 the importance of applying the correct
degree of tension to the hair when cutting
22 how and why to use club, freehand and
scissors-over-comb cutting techniques
23 the reasons for establishing and following
guidelines
24 how to create and follow a guideline for one
length, uniform layer, short graduation and
long graduation looks
25 how the angle at which the hair is held will
affect the weight distribution, balance and
degree of graduation of the cut
26 how to create the looks in the range
27 the importance of working with the natural
fall of the hair when considering the weight
distribution within a haircut
28 the importance of cross-checking the cut
29 how to cross-check and balance the cut
Evidence type
E3
E3
Cutting hair
E3
E3
E3
E3
Hints and tips
Hairdressing
scissors should
only be used for
cutting hair.
Never use them
to cut anything
else or the blades
will become blunt
and misaligned.
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
E3
Image courtesy of Goldwell
Continues on next page
139
Knowledge sign-off sheet
Unit GH12 Cut hair using basic
techniques
What you must know (continued)
Level 2 NVQ/SVQ Hairdressing
You need to understand:
Evidence type
Aftercare advice for clients
30 the importance of having regular cuts
31 the recommended time interval between cuts
Communication
32 how to give effective advice and
recommendations to clients
Tick if E3 was a GOLA test
Tick if E3 was a written test
Tick if cross-unit knowledge test was a GOLA test
Tick cross-unit knowledge
E3
E3
E3
Date
Date
Date
Date
Your clients
cut every 4– should have their hair
style in the b6 weeks to keep their
est condition
.
Image courtesy of Central Hairdressing Academy
140
Supplementary notes
Unit GH12
Cutting hair
Your assessor may use this space for any additional comments
they may have about your work.
Comments
Date
Unit sign-off
This section must be signed when the unit is complete.
We confirm that this evidence is authentic and the
assessments were conducted under specified conditions
and that all the performance criteria, range and essential
knowledge requirements have been met for this unit.
Candidate signature
Date
Assessor signature
Date
IV signature
(if sampled)
Date
141