~tl I ) ) Past and Present Members Mr EAdcock Mr N Apsey MrE Bacon Mr A J C Badger Mr R Barnett Mr W Barnett Mr DE Bathe Mr CT Beabey Miss J Bennett Mr R D Broad wood MrE LClarke Mr L Clayton MrFW Codd MrE Cogans MrG A Cooper MrW HCooper Mr H Copestake Mr H Cridge Mr W Darbey Mr C Dashwood Mrs M Foreman MrC Galley MrRWGates Mr A Giddings Mr A Goddard Mr DGould Mr J Greenaway MrP J Harper Dr J C Harrison Mr D Heasman . MrDHebbs MrG Hewitt MrE Hickson MtJ Holgate Mr C Hutchins Mr J Irvin MrFJackman Mr RJesson Mr RJones MrD Josey Mr J Kellet Mr A Kimber MrT King MrS Marks MrDMartin MrD Meeks Mr P Miller MrDMoon MrDMorgan MrS Muir MrDNewton MrWNewsom Mr J Porter Mr A Ridgway Mr K Rig lin Mr L Rowlands Mr G Scarlett Mr J Sogings Mr C Shearing MrHGSladc Mr A Smalley Mr PTyson MrVWaters Mr D Wilson Old British Beers and How To Make Them ' l Second Edition Dr John Harrison and Members of The Durden Park Beer Circle GREAT FERMENTATIONS OF SANTA ROSA 840 Piner Road #14 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 {707) 544-2520 {) .~~r; ) ~ ~ Preface 1 ' This booklet is an expanded edition of our publication entitled Old British Beers and How to Make Them, published in 1976. It contains instructions for brewing sixty British Beers ranging from pre-1400 unhopped ales to early 1900s oatmeal stouts. It is not intended to be a definitive history of the brewing industry, brewing materials or brewing practices. These topics are mentioned only where they have a significant impact on ale formulations, e.g. the British Patent by D. Wheeler in 1817 for the drum-roasting of black malt and roast barley. This led within a few years to the wholesale re-formulation of porters and stouts. Copyright© 1991, The Durden Park Beer Circle All rights reserved Acknowledgements First published 1976 Revised 1991 The Durden Park Beer Circle would like to thank the Trustees of the Scottish Brewing Archive for permission to use material held in the archive at Herriot-Watt University, Edinburgh. Also gratefully acknowledged is the considerable assistance given by Archivist, Charles McMaster BA, in extracting useful information. The circle would also like to thank Whitbread plc for information on their Victorian porter, double stout and triple stout; and Courage plc for permission to publish the recipe for Simond's 1880 Bitter extracted from their Brewing Archive at Bristol. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Harrison, John Old British beers and how to make them. I. Title 641.23 ISBN 0 9517752 0 0 Typeset at The University of London Computer Centre 4 f ) Contents Introduction ................................................................................... vii Part 1. Historical Notes ................................................................ 1 General ..................................................................................... 1 Nomenclature .......................................................................... 1 Weights and Measures ........................................................... 2 Brewing Methods (Old versus Present-Day) ...................... 4 Brewing Materials ................................................................... 5 Researching Old Beers ......................................................... 10 Oasthou.es in Kent Part 2. Making Old British Beers ............................................. 15 Brewing methods for formulations in this book .............. 15 Recipes .................................................................................... 19 Medieval Beers ............................................................... 21 Pale Amber and Amber Beers .. .................................... 25 Light Brown, Brown and Dark Brown Beers ............. 31 Stouts and Porters .......................................................... 39 .-------- -~ -:::-....,-~---...__~- A typical si7Uill English Brewery - - ~-- Appendix 1. Home Roasting Pale Malt to Coloured Malts ... 45 Appendix 2. Colour Ratings of Roast Malt and Barley .......... 46 References ..................................................................................... 47 ...-... "-. ~ . ~ - . .. . - ... -.. . . . - - ) ) ) Introduction Truman's XXK March Keeping Beer (1832) OG90 A quality st rong pale ale with a fine hop charucter. 3.6 lb Pal' Malt 13! 4 oz Fuggles Hops (boil) I; 2 oz Coldi11gs Hops (/at,) 1(10 oz. Coldi11gs Hops (dn;J Method No.2, but acfd the late Geldings hops for the last 10 minutes of the boil, and dry hop with Geldings. Mature for 8 to 10 months. The Circle's interest in old beers originated in 1972 when the author read a book A History of English Ale and Beer by H.A. MonktonO >. This book not only showed the large part that Porter played in 18th and 19th century· brewing, but also indicated how other wellknown beers such as India Pale Ale had changed since the early 1800s. An unwritten assumption pervading the book was that those beers were history and no-one would drink their like again. The author took this as a challenge, and suggested to the newly formed Circle that researching, making and evaluating OLD BEERS should be one of the Circle's core activities. This proposal was enthusiastically adopted by the Circle. As ultimately refined, it consisted of an annual programme of OLD BEERS to be made (decided in January). The evaluation of the beers was to be made at a Christmas function where the beers would be accompanied by OLD BRITISH FOOD. As the only Material Scientist in the Circle, it fell on the author to carry out most of the research on beer formulations. However, the production ·and eva luation of the ales and beers has been a complete Circle effort and the names of all brewers who ha ve contributed to this booklet are shown on the inside front cover. As a result of the·Circle's efforts since 1973, we now know that beers ranging from the merely interesting to the superb can be obtained by researching and making old formula tions. The problem, however, is how certain can we be that the product we have made with modified recipes, modern malts, modern hops, modern yeasts and possibly untypical water is a fair copy of the beer as originally made. The only honest answer is that for the majority of beers described there is no way we can ever know~ The exceptions are those beers that remained virtually unchanged up to 1914. In 1973 when we started the programme, there were about some people aged 79 and over who were in their 20s in 1914. Such people might remember drinking pre-1914 beer. W~ encountered one such person by accident. On Christmas Eve I left a few pints of draught Whitbread's 1850 porter with a brewing friend, Don Hebbs. I heard the rest of the story two weeks later. On vii ) Ole. __Aish Beers Christmas morning he asked his daughter's fiance's grandmothera spry old lady of 86- if she would like a glass of Guinness. On getting her approval, he went and fetched a pint of my Whitbread's porter. The old lady took a swig and turned a beady eye on Don. she took another long pull, looked him straight in the eye and said "That's not Guinness, that's London porter! Where on-earth did you get that?" Don was totally flabbergasted. He did not know that the old lady knew what porter was, never mind able to recognise it. It transpired that she, as many girls did at the time, entered domestic service when she was 14. As was the custom then, she was given so many pints of porter as part of her board. When porter disappeared ~he switched to Guinness. It took only a third of a pint of porter to set those memories flooding back. That incident was the best unsolicited testimonial we are likely to get. The next best occasion occurred in 1988 when I took some 1871 Younger's Ale No. 1 back to the Scottish Brewing Archive. An exYounger maltster-cum-brewer aged 78 took it around to the Younger's home for elderly ex-employees and shared it with a few friends aged 83 and 85. They were very impressed. They recognised it as Ale No. 1 and thought it was better than· the earliest samples they could remember from the early 1920s. The essential difference between the 1871 and the early 1920 versions was that the OG in 1871 was 102, whereas in 1923-24 it would have been ~5. Our third example, though less definitive than the first two, is worth mentioning. There are a number of beers ·available commercially which bear a close resemblance to our 'Original India Pale Ale'. I came across one such, an American east coast beer called Ballentine's India Pale Ale in 1966 before we started our programme. The carton's description of the beer was: "As made for the India trade, matured in wood for one year." The OG was probably nearer 55 than 68-70 but the family resemblance was good. Another is Young's (London) Strong Export Bitter. One would expect this to be descended from the IPAs of yore and again. at an OG of 62, the resemblance is there. It is too much to hope that we will see many more of such encouraging confirmations of our work. Many of our beers vanished long before 1914, and there is but a small, fast-dwindling population of old drinkers to call upon. Part 1 Historical Notes General The history of British Ales and Beers can be conveniently divided into four main periods. The period where the main beverages were Anglo-Saxon unhopped ales lasted until about AD 1400. The struggle between unhopped ales and hopped beers lasted from AD 1400-1700. The full flowering of British brewing took place between AD 1700-1914. During this period, virtually every combination of malts, roast malts, other grains and hops was to be found somewhere, at original gravities ranging from 40 to 140. The post -1914 period is characterised by the takeover and closure of many thousands of breweries, thus drastically reducing the choice available. In addition the tax system in the UK has been biased against high gravity beers. This has led to a continuous reduction in the original gravity of standard beers such as bitter and the elimination of many high gravity beers by the smaller brewers. Nomenclature l All trades and crafts have their own private vocabulary in which special meaning is attached to a word that is in general use. For example, the word 'mash' in brewing does not mean to crush or to macerate, but it refers to the process of steeping crushed malt with hot water to convert the starch into fermentable sugars. It is assumed that anyone wanting to use this book · will be familiar with present-day brewing terms. However, when looking back over a period of 700-800 years one must be aware that words sometimes change . their 1 viii r. ( J ritish Beers ) Hh meaning with time. The most important of these are as follows:Ale Beer Stale Stout Porter Malt Brown Malt Before about AD 1700 this referred specifically to a malt beverage made without hops. With the eclipse of unhopped drinks, the word became to mean a beer made in the British style, i.e. made using top fermenting yeast at room temperature; 1:5-21 °C (60700F). Pre -1700 it meant a hopped malt beverage distinct ·from Ale. With the eclipse of unhopped Ale the word beer became a general term covering all hopped malt drinks. Lagers, ales and barley wines are all types of beer. Up to the late nineteenth century the word meant 'old and mature', and stale ale or porter cost more than ordinary ale or porter. Nowadays it means old to the point of not being drinkable. The old English meaning of the word meant strong, tough, hearty. This meaning also applied in brewing, and up to about 1840-1850 a stout beer meant a strong beer. It was only after 1850 that the term came to have its current meaning of a dark full-flavoured beer made using black malt or roast barley<2>. In the nineteenth century, in England and Scotland, the description porter malt meant brown malt. In ireland, however, it meant pale amber malt. This was also known as blown malt due to the popping of the malt during production. Weights and Measures When interpreting old sources of brewing information, attention has to be paid to changes in weights and measures that have occurred over the past five centuries. 2 ) al Notes Barley and Malt These were originally specified in units of volume. A bushel was the volume of 10 gallons of water, and a quarter was equal to 8 bushels. The standardisation of the weights of a quarter of barley and malt at 448 lbs and 336 lbs respectively, does not upset extracted data as these weights were set at the average · weights of the original volume measure. In Scotland before 1840 a unit normally used for meal was sometimes used for malt. The boll is 140 lbs and is divided into 4 firlots. Coloured Malt and Roast Barley i !. In Malting and Brewing Science<3> there occurs the comment: "Transactions involving coloured malts have in the past been complicated by the range of units of weight used" . Thus coloured malts and roast barley were sold by the malt quarter of 336 lbs, 280 lbs and 252 lbs, with 6 or 8 bushels to the quarter. The author has only come across one set of ledgers where malt quarters less than 336 lbs have been specifically mentioned. In the Reid (London) ledger for 1837, brown malt and roast barley were bought in at 244 lbs per quarter, and in 1877 at both 228 lbs and 244 lbs per quarter. The absence of a specific reference to quarter weights less than 336 lbs does not guarantee that a 336 lbs value was in use. This sort of familiar information which did not change was sometimes omitted from ledgers as being unnecessary! Gravity Prior to 1760 there was no easy, practical method of measuring wort and beer gravities. The application of the hydrometer (saccharometer) to brewing, particularly by J.Richardson< 25l in 1784 led to the system of recording gravities as brewers' pounds per barrel which is still in use. The gravity of a wort or beer in brewers' pounds is defined as the weight of 36 gallons of the wort minus the weight of 36 gallons of distilled water. Brewers' pounds can be changed 3 Ole.. l tish Beers into SG by multiplying by 2.77, or by. the use of conversion tables. Cask Sizes The Ale barrel was first standardised at 30 gallons, in 1420 AD, and the Beer barrel at 36 gallons where it has remained since. With the demise of the unhopped ale around 1700 AD, the Ale barrel fell into disuse. In old sources of brewing information one finds .reference to some of the less common cask sizes and they are as follows: a Pin is 41;2 gallons; a Six is 6 gallons; a Firkin is 9 gallons; a Kilderkin is 18 gallons; a Barrel is 36 gallons; a Tierce is 42 gallons; a Hogshead is 54 gallons; a Puncheon is 72 gallons; a Butt is 108 gallons, and a Tun is 216 gallons. Brewing Methods (Old versus Present-Day) Grinding and Mashing Malt Apart from better control of these processes, e.g. the use of thermometers for accurate temperature control and hydrometers to control specific gravity, there has been no important changes in these processes Separating the Wort The process of sparging, i.e. sprinkling the mashed grain with hot water at the same time as wort was run off from the bottom of the mash tun, seems to have originated in Scotland in the late eighteenth century and was in widespread use in the UK by the early nineteenth century. Prior to this development; removal of the whole of the fermentable material from a batch of grain was accomplished by a system of multiple mashing. After an initial mash of about one hour, taps were opened and as much wort as would separate freely was collected. Further hot water was added to the grain and a second mash performed for 45 minutes or so. The draining and remashing was repeated up to four times to produce a 4 ) Hi~ ) al Notes series of worts of decreasing gravity. These were usually boiled separately with hops; the spent hops from the first mash being re-used as part or whole of the hops for successive mashes. In this way, one batch of grain yielded ales ranging from an OG over 100 down to table ale of OG 30-35. Some brewers blended the four resulting worts to control the OGs of the hopped worts or to reduce the number of ales. Some brewers continued double mashing into the late nineteenth century. Our experiences of making the same ale by simple mash and sparge and by double mashing suggests that the differences in the resulting ales are marginal. Brewing Materials As with all agricultural crops, brewing materials have been under continuous change and development during their recorded history. Hops In 1950 the UK hop crop consisted of 20% Goldings and Golding type, 77.5% Fuggles, and 2.5% others< 3>. In 1850 there was Golding plus at least eleven other varieties. Some of these were of local significance only, and many were coarse hops grown for high yield and resistance to disease rather than any intrinsic merit. Fuggles, generally availaole from 1875, eventually superseded them all. In 1750 there were about six well established varieties: Farnham Pale, Canterbury Brown, Long White, Oval, Long Square Garlic, and Flemish. Farnham Pale was regarded as the best quality hop but with the introduction of Golding in 1795 it became just another hop that was eventually superseded by Fuggles<4 >. With the above history there see_med to be little point in using any hops other than Fuggles or Fuggles plus Geldings as copper hops, or Goldings alone as aroma hop, in our programme. 5 J 0" ) itish Beers ) His' ) 1Notes ~~ ~ )S, ~ ~ ~~ '! .~ .~ ~j :j In translating old recipes where the hop variety is not given, however, it is safer to assume that these were coarse hops with a l()wer bittering potential than Goldings (5.5%) or Fuggles (4.5%) and assume a bitter resin content of 4%. Pale Malt. Before 1820, improvements in barleys for malting were ·made on a very local scale and improved strains were usually named after the districts in which they were grown. The first nationally grown barley was produced from selections made in about 1820 by the Rev. J.B. Chevalier, and Chevalier became the premium malting barley for most of the rest of the nineteenth century. Since then there have been several waves of improved malting barleys. Between the two world wars Spratt-Archer and Plumage Archer were favourites giving way to Proctor post-1950. Proctor is currently under competition from ne~ varieties such as Zephyr and Maris Badger<3 >. The salient fact is that we cannot obtain malt made with pre1914 barleys and the crucial question is does it matter. A great de~l of ·t he effort put into improving barleys has no direct effect on the flavour of the resulting beer. The farmer needs high yield, disease resistance and a short stiff straw; the maltster needs a thin husk, even and ·reliable germination and even modification; and the brewer wants a high diastaticactivity to cope with un~alted adjuncts such as flaked barley. On balance, we believe that using malt made from currently grown barleys instead of the old original varieties, will have made only marginal changes in flavour and quality of the beers we have made and enjoyed. An additional piece of evidence for thinking that differing barley varieties have only minimal effect on beer flavour is contained in the ledgers of Younger's Brewery (EdiJ:lburgh) for the 1870s. These show that in any one year, barleys for malting or malted barleys, were obtained from Scotland, England, Ireland, France, the Baltic area, the Black Sea area, North Africa and occasionally North America. There are no 6 records in the ledgers of complaints about beer variation, caused by this wide variety of raw material. The ledgers also suggest that the nineteenth century brewers were a great deal less hag-ridden about making absolutely identical brews than the present-day commercial brewers. Pale malt only became available from about 1680 when coke began to be freely available for the direct, or preferably, the indirect curing of malt(2). The lack of control over the previous methods using fierce hardwood fires, or burning straw, meant that the outer part of the malt was caramelised. Ales made with such malt would have been nut-brown in colour. With the rise in popularity of India Pale Ales in the early nineteenth century, a special malt was produced that was even paler than pale malt. The maximum cure temperature was 150° F compared with 170 -180°F for pale ale malt<Sl. The product, known as East India Malt (sometimes white malt), was probably Closer to present day lager malts than current pale ale malts. (It is interesting to note that Youngers in 18501870 made their pale and export ales largely with foreign malt which was probably lager malt style!) Coloured Malts While variations in beer produced by using pale malts made from different stra_ins of barley seem to be minimal, changes in beers as a result of changes in coloured malts were highly significant. Up to 1817 the darkest malt available was brown malt dried over a fierce hardwood fire. Any attempt to take the malt to a darker colour led to a runaway reaction which turned the malt into charcoal. In 1817 D.Wheeler invented the cylindrical drum roaster incorporating water sprays which could be used to quench the roasting grain instantly< 6>. This enabled controlled production of roast malts ranging from amber, brown and chocolate through to black. Similarly raw barley could be roasted to colour comparable to black malt<2l. 7 Oh.. ) itish Beers This development w as rapidly exploited by porter brewers and w ithin five years most London porter had b een reformulated to replace most of the brown malt by pale malt plus a little black malt. Another coloured malt favoured in Scotland, and Ireland (where it was known as porter malt) in the nineteenth century was pale amber. Its colouring power was about half that of ordinary amber malt<7>. It was fully diastatic. It is no longer readily a vailable. Provided allowance is made for its poor diastatic performance carapils (or caramalt) can be used as a substitute for pale amber. A late introduction to the range of coloured products was Crystal Malt. The freshly m alted barley was heated under high humidity to mash the starch to fermentable sugars inside the ba rley grain. Further dry roasting caramelised these sugars w ith the production, in freshly broken grains, of a dark brown glass-like appearance. The process for producing crystal malt seems to have been patented in the 1840-1850 period . Little actual use seems to have been made of crystal m alt before 1880 however<B>. The middle range of crystal malt has a colouring power similar to that of brown malt. Whereas m odern brown malts have no residual diastatic properties and therefore cann~t be made the major part of a grist, crystal malt is pre-mashed and does not have that limitation. The flavour of crystal malt is similar though not identical to that of brown malt and we have found it useful to replace part of the brown malt in some old beer grists with crystal malt to enable a satisfactory extract to be obtained. For example, AD 1800 Dorchester Ale was originally made with two parts amber and 1 part brown malts· (rapidly cured over a hot wood fire). Such a grist obviously mashed satisfactorily in a way that modern amber and brown malts do not. The recipe given in this book is thus one which is designed to make a close approximation to the original beer w ith materials currently available. Pale amber, amber and brown malts may not be readily available to individuals wishing to make some of the recipes 8 ) His• )al Notes in this book. It is not difficult, however, to make small quantities of these sp ecial malts at home, and instructions for d oing this are given as an appendix. Yeast After malt (and its roasted products) and hops, mos t brewers would agree that the next most important factor determining beer character is the strain of yeas t. This importance arises in two ways. The metabolism of the yeast during fermentation results in a nu mber of products such as diacetyl, aliphatic alcohols and esters that a re important in beer flavour. Secondly the alcoholic tolerance of the yeast, and its ability to ferment the maltotriose component of wort determines the resid ual specific gravity (and hence residual sweetness and pala te fullness) of high OG beers. Both of these effects vary with the strain of yeast. However the technology of yeast is a comparatively recent d evelopment. It was only in 1876 that the function of yeast d uring fermentation was elucidated by Pasteur<9l . With few exceptions we know nothing about the yeasts used to make the beers we have stu died. The exceptions are those brewers that have never replaced the yeast used in the br ewery for very long periods of time, for example the Guinness Stout brewery. These examp les are, however, very special cases. Our approach has been to use the most app'r opriate modern yeast but look to see whether the final gravity reached is the best for tha t beer. For example, Dorchester Ale can be fermented with modern yeast to below an SG of 20. At this SG the flavour balance is not right and raising the SG to 30 (comparable to mod ern Russian Stout) produces a m arked improvement in balance. It seems entirely plausible that the yeasts used in 1800 w ould have left such a gravity na turally in Dorchester Ale. Water The importance of water used to brew beer has been known for hund reds of years. Burton-on-Trent, with its very hard 9 ~------------------------------------------------------------- L-.h ritish Beers water has a reputation for producing good ale that goes back to the eighteenth century. Up to the start of the nineteenth century brewers could only select the most suitable of the locally availabl~ sources of water- well, river or stream - and make the best of it. Even in the late nineteenth century the only water treatment recommended to brewers was that oversoft waters could be hardened by boiling with gypsum (calcium sulphate) plus a little table salt<S>. For making the high gravity, all malt, robust British beers pescribed in this book only two types of water are needed. For pale ales, export ales, strong ales and barley wines the water (A) should have a total salt content of 800-1200 parts per million (ppm), which should be high in calcium and sulphate, and contain small amounts of sodium and chloride. For dark beers such as mild ales, brown ales, stouts and porters the water (B) should have a salt content of 250-450 ppm and contain more sodium than calcium and more chloride than sulphate. The best approach is to obtain- from your local water supplier an analysis of the water and use the instructions in any of the better home-brew booksOO) to adjust the water into the desired area. Researching Old Beers Reliable information on the formulation and processing of an old beer is essential if that beer (or a close copy) is to be reproduced. This is so even if it is subsequently decided to use an alt~rnative item readily available now, for some original material n~ longer accessible. There are only two primary sources' of information about OLD BEERS. If they can be accessed, brewing iedgers compiled by. a brewery at the time the beer was brewed form the most reliable sources. Even with these, errors of interpretation can occur because the ledgers were never intended to be read by someone with no first hand knowledge of the brewery and its 10 ) h ) ical Notes method s. Ledgers with pre-printed headings are not common before 1840. Pre-1840 hand-written ledgers are obviously more difficult to read and sometimes degenerated into little more than an aide-memoire for the brewer. T hese often omitted essential details such as the quantity of beer brewed , presumably because only one quantity (the full capacity of the plant) was ever brewed, so there was no point in mentioning it. A book is now available containing a comple te list of all brewing archive data known within the UK0 1>. The second most useful sources are old books o n brewing. These are a mixed bag. Some are obviously written first-hand by experienced brewers, but others are only compilations of information at second, third or fourth hand. Other sources include record s and accounts of medieval Abbeys and large estates owned by the landed gentry. These were often self-su fficient in home brewed beer. As with all historical information, the further back in time one goes the less information is available. There a re a number of reasons for this. The range of beers made in medieval times was smaller than that made by a large nineteenth-century brewery. In the absence of cheap methods of information recording and storage, e.g. typewriters and printing presses, only the bare minimum of information was kept. Also, when brewing was a craft activity controlled by Guilds the dissemination of information outside the Guild was discouraged . There are quite a few beers that exist only in name and by reputa.tion; no factual information having survived. Is it worth making? There is nothing more annoying .than spending a lot of time extracting· information abou t an OLD BEER, breaking the formulation down to home brew proportions, making it and evaluating it; only to find that one could have bou ght a similar beer in a local off-licence. What is needed is a simple method of classifying beers so that one can see if an OLD BEER has no 11 Old , ) J sh Beers Figure 1. Original Gravity vs. Colour lW~ 25 48 130 120 ~ .23 22 110~ ,e. 100 35 36 24 • 21 t 20 > c<S 90 59 58 19 . . <a ·~ 60 ~~n l? · ~:: 47 46 ..... ... • 34 37 40 80 0 2 32 28 4l; 44 70 -13T 6 •• • • ., .• ')"')1 • 27 • 60 . . .10 30 26 50 ~ ~ . J •• ; 57 56 sse 54 53 • 29 51 52 30 12 Amber Light Brown Brown Dark Brown ) 1Notes existing equivalent. The me thod used by Durden Park is a simple two-d imensional plot of original gravity versus colour (Fig 1). The ori ginal gravity controls alcoholic strength, maltiness and residual sweetness. The colour retlects the type and amount of roast grain in the grist, a nd is a measure of roast grain flavour in the beer. The other two factors w ith a significant effect on beer character a re the hop rate and sweetness (where this is greater than that left in a fully fermented beer). Sweetness above that of a fully fermented beer is fo u nd only in some brow n ales and stouts and is relatively rare in old beers. Differing hop ra tes are more of a problem. H op rates expressed as lbs Hops per Quarter of Malt range from zero for unhopped ale to 23 for some India Pale, and Export Pale Ales. While there are fancy methods for red uci.n g 3 or 4 variables to a 2-dimensional graph, the interpretation of such graphs is less im mediately obvious to the average ho me brewer. It is better to keep the OG/Colour p lot and simply rem ember that any one spot on the graph covers a range of hop rates. Further comparison of these rates w ill enable one to decide w hether an OLD BEER is too similar to an existing commercial beer to be worth making. A bar chart of hop rates found in old beers is shown in Figure 2. Looking a t figure 1 in detail, the shaded L-shaped area represents the regions well covered by present-day commercial brewing. Only oddball b eers in this area are worth 50 40 Pale Am.ber Hisl Black Key to figure 1 Historic beers have been plotted with the same numbers given in the section on beer formulations. Contemporary beers are plotted with the numbers given below. 101 Gale's Prize Old Ale 106 Marston'sOwd Roger 107 Young's Old Nick Barley Wine 102 Eldridge Pope'sHardy Ale 103 Young's Winter Warmer 108 GuinnessStrong Export 104 Theakston's01d Peculiar 109 Courage's Russian Stout 105 Greene King' s Suffolk Ale 13 'f J 1 ")l ~ il i, <' ~! "~ ) Old u, dish Beers considering, e.g. very high or very low hop rates. Outside the shaded area commercial coverage is thin or in some places, non-existent. It is a worthwhile exercise to plot existing commercial beers falling outside this areas so that these slots can be avoided. ,, if J i'.t 20 The old recipes in this book were all made with malted barley, some 7- 8 grades of roasted and caramelised malt and barley, and leaf hops. We do not think it is practical to try and duplicate this wide range of beers using the limited types of malt extract available. However, for those beers made only from pale malt and hops a reasonable copy can be made using the palest available liquid or powder malt extracts and fresh hops. Such beers are unlikely to have the body and palate fullness of the same item produced directly from malted barley. ·r-; ~ 15 ·' l I l I j; f! Part 2 Making Old British Beers Brewing methods for formulations in this book .,' ,, ) 10 I India Pale Ales 5 & Export Pale Ales 1. Suitable for OGs up to 80 0 0 2 Figure 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 Hop Rate (lbs per barrel) 16 18 20 Add hot water to the ground grain to produce a stiff mash a t 66°C (150°F). Maintain 66±1° C (150±2° F) for three hours then raise the temperature to 77° C (170°F) for 30 minutes. Sparge slowly with water at 82-85° C (180 -185° F) to obtain the required volume. Boil with hops for 11h hours. Cool. Strain and rinse the hops. Adjust to the required OG by the addition of cold boiled water or dried pale malt extract as needed. Ferment with good quality ale yeast. Dry hop with 11to oz Geldings. 2. Suitable for OGs over 80 a) Traditionally these were made by · using the first wort drained from a large batch of malt, the rest of which went into lower gravity beers. It is possible to duplicate this procedure on the small scale by: i) using a very stiff mash ii) sparging very slowly 14 15 ~ ,e II' 6.~. dritish Beers ) Brew )Methods I# ~~ ti. ~~ iii) cease collecting wort when the gravity has dropped to a critical value- about 15 below the beer QG. Subsequent boiling with the hops for 11I 2 hours raises the gravity to that specified. The wort remaining in the grain can be sparged out to make a second beer with an OG in the range 40-60. However, the making of a second beer can be avoided, if only the main beer is wanted, by using method 2 b. •1 b) Proceed as in method 2 a) until the wort collected has fallen in SG to 15 below the beer OG. Change the vessel receiving the wort and continue sparging slowly until the SG of the second wort drops to 50 below the beer OG. Boil the second, weaker wort until the SG (adjusted to room temperature) has risen to 15 below the beer OG. Add the first wort and raise to the boil. Add the hops and .boil for 11/z hours. Continue and complete the fermentation as in method 1. Maturing The great majority of beers in this book would have been matured in wooden barrels for serving draught, or bottled in corked bottles for 'home sales' or export. Neither method is particularly convenient for home brewers. PVC Adhesive Tape to Secure Boat to Carboy Heavy Polyethylene Film / The following method has been found suitable for maturing, for up to a year, beers intended for serving draught. When the initial fermentation is complete (say 3 weeks) the beer is siphoned into a suitably sized glass container with a narrow neck. The beer should overlap the base of the neck. A loose-fitting glass or plastic tube, closed at the lower end, is inserted into the neck and prevented from slipping too far into the beer by PVC adhesive tape - see diagram. The size of the plastic boat should be as large as is practicable to minimise the exposed beer surface. About ·half a teaspoon of sodium metabisulphite crystals plus a few crystals of citric acid are placed in the boat. The carboy or demijohn neck is then covered by several layers of polyethylene film held in place by a heavy elastic band. This seal allows carbon dioxide from any secondary fermentation of residual wort carbohydrates to escape; limits contact with the air; and provides enough sulphur dioxide in the airspace to inhibit ye~st or bacterial growth on the small exposed beer surface. When needed the beer may b e siphoned into a fresh container, fined if necessary, and then conditioned in a plastic pressure barrel for draught dispense. Bottling high gravity old ales has to be done with care. The safest type of bottles to use are those which can be checked for development of excessive pressure by rapidly opening and resealing. The old-fashioned internal screw-stopper bottles are ideal but virtually unobtainable. The next best are the swingtop bottles similar to those used for some continental lagers. Because some secondary fermentation will usually take place in bottle, the priming sugar should be restricted to a quarter or a third of normal, i.e. about 1/ 4 oz per gallon. Strong Elastic Bands ~ Cut-off Plastic Bottle or Sealed Plastic Tube 16 Bisulphite and Acid Crystals / ./' 17 ) ) ) Recipes Medieval Beers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Gruit Ale (unhopped, ca. 1300) Gruit Ale (unhopped, ca. 1300) Medieval Household Beer (1512) Medieval Household Beer (1577) Medieval Household Beer (1587) Welsh Ale (unhopped, ca. 1400) MUM (unhopped, Late 17th Century) Ebulum (Unhopped Elderberry Ale, 1744) 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 24 Pale Amber and Amber Beers 9 10 11 '• 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Younger's Export Ale (1848) Usher's India Pale Ale (1885) Usher's 60/- Pale Ale (1885) Simond's (Reading) Bitter (1880) Original India Pale Ale (1837) William Black's X Ale (1849) Younger's Ale No.3 (Pale, 1896) Younger's Imperial Ale (1835) London Ale (1820) William Black's XXX Ale (1849) Alexander Berwick's Imperial Ale (1849) Litchfield October Beer (1744) William Black's Best Ale (1849) Keeping Beer (1824) Younger's XXXS Ale (1872) Wicklow Ale (Ireland, 1805) Burton Ale (1824) 25 25 25 26 26 26 27 27 27 28 28 28 29 29 29 30 30 Light Brown, Brown and Dark Brown Beers 26 27 28 Maclay's 56/ - Mild Ale (1909) Mild Ale (London, 1824) Ushe r's 68/ - Mild Ale (1885) 31 31 31 19 ~I ~ ' . ' I~ J L-.r-.t~ritish Beers ...~ 11: l~ 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 ~; ~~ ~~ !l :' ~- ii: li· !i.l i [~j l.!i· r ij',. l ']! ~ .~ ~.: il .U Kingston Amber Ale (ca. 1830) Younger's 60/- Ale (1871) Younger's 80/- Ale (1872) Younger's 100/- Ale (1872) Younger's 120/- Ale (1872) Younger's 140/- Ale (1872) Younger's 160/- Ale (1872) Younger's 200/- Ale (1910) Younger's Ale No.1 (1872) Younger's Ale No.2 (1872) Younger's Ale No.2 (London, 1872) Younger's Ale No.3 (1872) Younger's Ale No.3 (London, 1872) Younger's Ale No.4 (1866) Belhaven Ale No.4 (1871) Belhaven XXX (1871) Younger's XXXX Ale (1896) Younger's XXXX Stock Ale (1896) Dorchester Ale (ca. 1800) Younger's Majority Ale (1937) Medieval Beers 32 32 32 33 33 33' 34 34 34 35 35 35 36 36 36 37 37 37 38 38 Recipes per 1 gallon 1 Gruit Ale (unhopped, ca. 1300) Ref (15) OG80 Plain ales ·from fermented barley wort were undoubtedly made in the pre-hop era. However, where possible herb flavou rings would have been added to offset the bland flavour of plain ale. 1% lb Pale Malt 1112 lb Carapils 1112 gram each of Myrica Gale (Sweet Gale), Ledum Palustre (Marsh Rosemary) and Achillea Millefolium (Mil/foil or Yarrow) Method No.1, but in place of hops, boil the herb m ixture with the wort for 20 minutes. Mature for 4 months. Stouts and Porters 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 '[ It I . ~~ 20 Maclay's 63/- Oatmeal Stout (1909) Usher's Stout (1885) London Porter (ca.1800) Whitbread's London Porter (1850) Younger's Export Stout (1897) Younger's Double Brown Stout (1872) Younger's Porter (1848) William Black's Brown Stout (1849) Whitbread's Double Stout (1880) Original Porter (1750) Whitbread's Triple Stout (1880) Younger's XXXP Export Porter (1841) 39 39 40 40 40 41 41 41 42 42 43 43 2 Gruit Ale (unhopped, ca. 1300) Ref (15) OG 50 Repeat the procedure for the OG 80 Gruit Ale but use 11; 4 lbs pale malt, % lb carapils and only 1 gram each of the herbs. Mature for 3 months. u 21 ) Beers 3 Medieval Household Beer (1512) Ref (2) ) ieval Beers· 5 Medieval Household Beer (1587) Ref (14) OG65 OG70 The hop rate is beginning to approach modern p ractice. The amber malt is needed to reproduce the nut-brown character of medieval .beer. The beer character is similar to modern high gravity light mild ale. All malt in 1512 would have been at least pale amber in colour, producing a pale brown beer. The malt mixture given above should be a reasonable substitute. When first grown in the UK, hops were an expensive commodity. In addition, the anti-hop lobby blamed hops for all manner of human problems from gout to flatulence. Medieval beers were thus made with (by current standards) tiny amounts of hops. This is a pleasant malty beer superior to American malt liquors. 1% lb Pale Malt 12 oz Amber Malt 2112 oz Wheatmeal 2112 oz Oatmeal 112 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops 21!4 lb Pale Malt 11!4 /b Amber Malt 1/s oz Hops Method No.1, but simmer the wheatmeal and oatmeal in boiling water for 10 minutes before adding to the malt mash. Mature for 3-4 months. Method No.1, but boil hops for 2 hours. Mature for 4 months. ~ I ( 6 4 Medieval Household Beer (1577) Ref (13). · Ref(l) OG70 An appealing spiced Ale for drinking on a cold night. OG55 A malty beer superior to American malt liquors. 1112 lb Pale Malt 12 oz Amber Malt 2112 oz Wheatmeal 2112 oz Oatmeal 114 oz Hops Welsh Ale (unhopped , ca. 1400) '·· 3 lb Pale Malt 5 oz Light Malt Extract Powder . 12 g cinnamon, 6 g Ginger, 3 g Cloves, 12 g White pepper 1!2 pint Honey Method No.1, but mix the wheat and oats with boiling water and simmer for 10 minutes before adding to the malt mash. Process the pale malt to produce 1 gallon of wort u sing method 1. Ferment with ale yeast. When nearly finished, add the malt extract powder dissolved in a pint of water, plus the other ingredients. Referment, adding sugar if necessary to produce a final gravity of 15-20. Strain, Settle and bottle. Mature for 3-4 months. Mature for 6 months. 23 22 ........aa............~s.....~aB. .oaB~ ij Hlr Ok ) \ J tish Beers ru. ift.! l .,~ I 7 MUM (unhopped, Late 17th Century) Ref (1) . I ll,j One of the best unhopped ales. ~~~I Recipes per 1 gallon 3 lb Wheat malt 1 lb Pale Malt 112 lb rolled Oats 112 lb ground beans. 1 gram each of Cardus Benedictus, Marjoram, Betony, Burnet, Dried Elderflower, Thyme, Pennyroyal 1112 gram Crushed Cardamom seeds 112 gram Bruised Bayberries ~I ll Il. ! Method No. 1, but simmer oats and beans for 20 minutes before adding to malt mash. Ferment with ale yeast. After 3-4 d ays rack from the yeast deposit and add the other ingredients. Infuse for 10 days. Strain and allow to clear, then bottle. 1 Mature for 8 months. I I r l l Pale Amber and Amber Beers OG80 8 Ebulum (Unhopped Elderberry Ale, 1744) Ref (16) OG60 A medium gravity India type pale ale. 2112 lb Pale Malt 2113 oz Go/dings Hops Method No. 1 Mature for at least 8 months. 10 Usher's India Pale Ale (1885) Ref (16) OG60 A clean, bitter, refreshing p ale ale. Ref (12) OG85 Attractive in its own way. Resembles some Belgian Fruit Beers. 4 lb Pale Malt 1112 lb Ripe Fresh Elderberries Use method 2(b) to produce one gallon of wort at OG 100 (or dissolve light :r:nalt powder in water to give the same). Add the elderberries. Boil for 20 minutes; cool and strain. Ferment with ale yeast. Mature for at least 6 months. 9 Younger's Export Ale (1848) 2.6 lb Lager Malt 1112 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.1 Mature for 8 - 9 months. 11 Usher's 60/- Pale Ale (1885) Ref (16) OG60 A typical pale ale of the period. 2112 fb Pale Malt %ozHops Method No.1 Mature for at least 3 months. i I' I I I. I 24 25 'I I I i ~I 01~ ) J tish Beers Pale and / ) er Beers 11 I I . ! 12 Simond's (Reading) Bitter (1880) Ref (24) OG76 A robust, slightly sweet bitter with real character. The strongest of Younger's Export Pale Ales. 2112 lb Pale Malt I :, Ref (16) 1/b Pale Malt 2 lb Lager Malt 1112 oz Go/dings Hops · 7 oz Carapils or 3 oz Carapils + 2 oz Amber Malt 1 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops 0.15 oz Goldings Hops 'late' ,,il j -! 15 Younger's Ale No.3 (Pale, 1896) OG62 Method No.1 Method No.1, but add the 0.15 oz Geldings hops for the last 5 minutes of the boil. Mature for at least 8 months. Mature for at l~ast 3 months. 16 Younger's Imperial Ale (1835) Ref (16) OG80 13 Original India Pale Ale (1837) Ref (21) OG70 The recipe corresponds to the heaviest I.P.A shipped from Burton in the 1830's according to the reference. Simonds of Reading were shipping an almost identical formulation (2.9 lb pale malt plus 21/ 4 oz hops) in 1880. 3 lb Pale Malt 2112 oz Go/dings Hops Excellent Strong Ale. Method No.1 Mature for at least 6 months. Ref (20) OG85 Mature for at least 8 months. OG75 3 lb Pale Malt 1213 oz Go/dings Hops 17 London Ale (1820) Method No.1 14 William Black's X Ale (1849) A high quality strong pale ale. A stron~ ale heavily hopped. Ref (18) 3112 lb Pale Malt 3 oz Goldings Hops Method No. 2(a) or 2 (b). Mature for at least 1 year. 31!4 /b Pale Malt 1.1 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.1 Mature for at least 8 months. 26 ., 27 )- "\ 01u. l ritish Beers 18 William Black's XXX Ale (1849) l l / Ref (18) ,,~: 21 William Black's Best Ale (1849) OG90 OG 110 An excellent strong ale/barley wine 33{4 lb Pale Malt 1.7 oz Go/dings Hops A superb barley wine. Ref (18) 41/z lb Pale Malt 1.9 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.1 or No 2. Mature for at least 10 months. Method No.2 Mature for at least 10 months. t',, I Pale and Aufber Beers 19 Alexander Berwick's Imperial Ale (1849) Ref (1 6) OG 90-92 22 Keeping Beer (1824) A high quality strong pale ale. 3% lb Pale Malt 1.1 oz Go/dings Hops Very good Barley Wine 6 lb Pale Malt 13/4 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.2 Mature for 1 year. 20 Litchfield October Beer (1744) Ref (19) OG 116 Method No.2 (a) The second beer makes a good bitter. Ref (12) Mature for at least 1 year. OG 110 :l Before temperature control became common after 1820, ale brewers stopped brewing during the summer months. Strong beers, made in October with fresh malt and hops and matured over winter, provided stable beers for use the following summer. They could be used as made, or watered down to lighter beers. A very good Barley Wine with an individual flavour. 4/b Pale Malt 1% oz Go/dings Hops 4 oz each of Oatmeal, Ground Peas, Ground Beans and Ground Wheat 23 Younger's XXXS Ale (1872) Ref (1 6) OG 120 A very strong pale ale possibly exported to Russia. 6 lb Pale Malt 21!4 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.1 Mature for at least a year. Method No. 2(b) but first cook the adjuncts at the boil for 10 minutes before adding to the stiff mash made with the pale malt. Mature for at least a year. 28 29 ") 01. J itish Beers ) ~ i 24 Wicklow Ale (Ireland, 1805) Light Brown, Brown and Dark Brown Beers Ref (17) OG 125 r Recipes per 1 gallon A very strong, malty ale. 7 lb or 5112 lb Pale Malt (see method) 0.9 oz Go/dings Hops 26 Maclay's 56/- Mild Ale (1909) Method No. 2(a) use 7lb Pale malt, 2(b) use 51h lb Pale malt. An excellent middle gravity mild ale. Mature for at least 1 year. j 25 Burton Ale (1824) Ref (19) OG 140 ]3/4 /b Pale Malt 314 oz Black Malt 3 oz Amber Malt, 10 oz Wheat Malt or 6 oz Wholewheat flour \0.. 8 oz Go/dings Hops ----~ Method No. l. A very strong, heavy, sweet ale for which Burton-on-Trent was noted before it concentrated on Pale Ales, India Pale Ales and Bitters. 10 lb or 6 lb Pale Malt 2 oz Hops + extra for the 2nd beer Method No. 2(a) with 10 lb malt, also makes 11/2- 2 gallons of lighter beer, or 2 (b) using 6lb. Mature for at least Ref (16) OG60 11/z years. Mature for 3 months. 27 Mild Ale (London, 1824) Ref (19) OG66 Very good full flavoured strong mild ale. J 1j 4 lb Pale Malt lib Carapils 1 4 oz Amber Malt 2;3 oz Go/dings Hops ----- Method No.1 Mature for 3 months. 28 Usher's 68/- Mild Ale Ref (16) (1885) OG80 i:: A high gravity mild ale virtually unique to Scotland. 2 lb Pale Malt, 0.9 oz Go/dings Hops i 1113 lb Carapils Method No. 1 or No.2 i:n il Mature for 4 months . . 30 '-- .-,~ · . 31 I f 01{ ) ) tish Beers Light Brown, Brown and Dark Brown Beers 29 Kingston Amber Ale (ca. 1830) Ref (17) OG60 32 Younger's 100/- Ale (1872) OG80 Amber ales were popular in London. Ratios of amber malt to pale malt varied from 3:1 to 1:1; OGs from 50 to 70, and hop rates from 3; s to 3; 4 oz per gallon. Amber Ales are similar in style to Theakston's Old Peculiar. 11/4 lb Pale Malt 11/4 lb Amber Malt Ref (16) Strong nut-brown ale. Less hopped than the Scotch Ale range. 2 lb Pale Malt, 13/4 lb Carapils 1 oz Go/dings Hops Method No. 1 or No. 2 2 oz Chocolate Malt 314 oz Fuggles or Goldings Hops Mature for 6 months. Method No.1 33 Younger's 120/- Ale 0872) Mature for 3-4 months. OG 92-94 Ref (16) Strong nut-brown ale. 30 Younger's 60/- Ale (1871) Ref (16) OG 60-62 The weakest of the Younger's Shillings Ale range. Almost in the strong ale category by current standards. 11/2 lb Pale Malt 314 1 lb Carapils 2314 lb Pale Malt 2114 lb Carapils 1112 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.2 Mature for 1 year. oz Goldings Hops Method No. 1 34 Younger's 140/- Ale (1872) Mature for 3-4 months. OG 104 Ref (16) Barley wine strength nut-brown ale. 31 Younger's 80/- Ale (1872) Ref (16) OG70 See 100/- ale. 1213 lb Pale Malt, 0.9 oz Go/dings Hops 1113 lb Carapils 3 lb Pale Malt, 21f2[b Carapils 1.6 oz Go/dings Hops Method No. 2(a) Mature for at least a year. Method No.1 Mature for 6 months. 32 33 <... ) J ritish Beers 35 Younger's 160/- Ale (1872) Ref (16) Light Brown, Brown and Dar· ) wn· Beers 38 Younger's Ale No.2 (1872) OG 126 OG94 A very strong nut-brown ale. The strongest in the Shillings Ale range. 43/4/b Pale Malt 4 lb .Carapils 2.5 oz Go/dings Hops A Scotch Ale with a slightly lower gravity than No. 1. 2112 lb Pale Malt 2 lb Carapils 1.7 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.2 Method No. 2(a) Mature for at least 10 months. Mature for at least a year. 36 Younger's 200/- Ale (1910) Ref (1 6) OG 126 This seems to have been a Coronation Ale made to celebrate the coronations of both King George V, in 1911, and King George VI, in 1937. 41 !2 lb Pale Malt 3 1!2 oz Goldings Hops Ref (16) 3 1/2 lb Carapils Method 2(a). Extract 11/ 4 gallons of wort at the highest possible SG. If below 100, pre-boil to this value (measured cold) before adding hops and boiling for 21; 2 hours. 39 Younger's Ale No. 2 (London, 1872) Ref (16) OG 82 Scotch Ales for London sale were made slightly lower in OG and somewhat higher in hop than those for sale in Scotland. 21/4 lb Pale Malt l3/4lb Carapils 1.9 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.2 Mature for at least 10 months. Mature for at least 2 years. 40 Younger's Ale No.3 (1872) Ref (16) OG80 37 Younger's Ale No. 1 (1872) Ref (1 6) OG 102 The strongest of the Scotch Ales. A nut-brown dark barley wine. 23!4/b Pale Malt 2 oz Goldings Hops 21t4 lb Carapils Pale nut-brown ale similar to a strong mild ale. The most widely drunk of Younger's Scotch Ales. 2 lb Pale Malt, 11h lb Carapils 1114 az Goldings Hops Method No. 1 or No.2 Method No.2 Mature for at least a year. 34 Mature for at least 8 months. 35 ) Olu 2 itish Beers 41 Younger's Ale No.3 (London, 1872) Ref (16) Light Brown, Brown and Dark . ),n 44 Belhaven XXX (1871) B~ers Ref (16) OG76 OG70 See Ale No.2 (London). A nut-brown ale with a hop rate between that of the same OG Shillings Ale and Scotch Ale. 1213 /b Pale Malt 1113 lb Carapils 1314 oz Go/dings Hops 12/3 /b Pale Malt l 1!3lb Carapils 1114 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.1 Method No.1 Mature for at least 8 months. 42 Younger's Ale No.4 (1866) Mature for 6 months. Ref (16) 45 Younger's XXXX Ale (1896) OG74 This beer was only made for a limited period. It does not fit neatly into the Scotch Ale series and looks like an export version (higher hop rate) of Ale No. 3 (London). 13/4 /b Pale Malt J1 tz lb Carapils 2 oz Go/dings Hops Ref (16) OG 75-76 Excellent strong mild ale. ]3/4 lb Pale Malt 11!4/b Carapils 1.6 oz Go/dings Hops Method No.1 Method No. 1 Mature for at least 6 months. Mature for 6 months. 46 Younger's XXXX Stock Ale (1896) 43 Belhaven Ale No.4 (1871) OG68 Light nut-brown ale. 12 ;3 lb Pale Malt 1113 lb Carapils 1.4 oz Go/dings Hops Method No. 1 Mature for 6 months. 36 Ref (16) Ref (16) OG98 A 'stock' version of an ale was of higher gravity and hop rate than the ordinary version. w hen needed it could be diluted down to strength with light beer or water. 2114 lb Pale Malt, J3/4 lb Carapils 2 oz Go/dings Hops Method No. 2(b) Mature for at least 10 months. 37 01L 47 Dorchester Ale (ca. 1800) ) ) J itish Beers Stouts and Porters Ref (17) OG 100 The original recipe used only amber and brown malts; such would not mash satisfactorily today. The grist has been chosen to reproduce the character required in a form that is easier to process. This is a dark brown barley wine. 1 lb Pale Malt 49 Maclay's 63/- Oatmeal Stout (1909) Ref (16) OG46 A chewy, satisfying stout. 2 lb Cn;stal Malt 1 lb Brown Malt · 8 oz Diastatic Malt Syrup 11;4 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops Method No. 2(b), but add the malt syrup to the wort before boiling with the hops to break up any residual starch. 1114 lb Pale Malt 2 oz Amber Malt 4 oz Black Malt 3!4 lb Breakfast Oats 1 oz Go/dings Hops Method No. 1, but mix the oats with 2 pints boiling water and stand for 10 minutes before mixing with the malts. Mash at 155°F for 3 hours then 170°F for 1 hour. Mature for at least 10 months. 48 Younger's Majority Ale (1937) Recipes per 1 gallon Ref (16) Mature for 3 months. OG 136 A blockbuster of an ale made at the birth of an heir to the family for drinking at the 21st birthday party! The second wort makes an excellent old-ale with OG 50-SS. The 1949 ale was similar but had a hop rate of 11I 2 oz hops. 7/b Pale Malt, 5 lb Carapils 2 oz Go/dings H_ops Method No. 2(a). Extract 1114 gallons of the strongest wort possible. If the SG is below 120, pre-boil the wort up to this value (measured cold) before adding hops and boiling for a further 11/ 2 hours: 50 Usher's Sto:ut (1885) Ref (16) OG56 A typical full-bodied Victorian stout. 18 oz Pale Malt, 4 oz Black Malt 2 oz Crystal Malt 2 oz Brown sugar 1.3 oz Fuggles Hops 61!2 oz Carapils 2 oz Amber Malt, 2 oz Brown Malt Method No. 1. Mature for 4 months. Mature for at least 2 years. i I. t; ,,} 39 38 ) ) Olu 2 itish Beers Ref (19) 51 London Porter (ca.1800) ' ' Stoms and Porters 54 Younger's Double Brown Stout (1872) OG60 Ref (16) OG68 Porter recipes vary quite widely between different regions and breweries. This formulation has the merit that it can be made unchanged with modem brewing materials. 1114 lb Pale Malt %lb Brown Malt 112 Double stout and d ouble brown stout were late nineteenth ce!,"ltury labels for strong porter. Full-bodied and luscious. 1% lb Pale Malt, 31/2 oz Black Malt 1112 oz Go/dings Hops lb Amber Malt 1.1 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops 1% lb Amber Malt Method No. 1. Method No. 1. Mature for at least 6 months. Mature for at least 6 months. 55 Younger's Porter (1848) 52 Whitbread's London Porter (1850) Ref (22) OG60 One of the circle's favourite old beers. Smooth, good balance of roast grain and hop flavours. 21!4 /b Pale Malt, Ref (16) OG72 A full-bodied porter with an attractive soft roast grain background. 1112 lb Pale Malt 7 oz Brown Malt 1112 lb Brown Malt, 1112 oz Black Malt 1112 oz Go/dings Hops 2112 oz Black Malt 1 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops Method No. 1. Method·No. 1. Mature for at least 6 months. Mature for at least 4 months. 56 William Black's Brown Stout (1849) 53 Younger's Export Stout (1897) Ref (16) Ref (18) OG 76-78 OG 66-68 A mouth-filling strong Scottish porter, with a soft roast grain flavour. A full-bodied succulent stout. 1.1lb Pale Malt, 1.1/b Amber Malt 1.1 oz Brown Malt ] 1/4 oz Black Malt 1.8 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops J1h lb Pale Malt, 1 lb Carapils 1 '2 12 oz Crystal Malt 2 oz Black Malt 1113 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops Method No.1. Method No.1. Mature for at least 6 months. Mature for 6 months. 40 41 ~ ) (;. _ ) ritish Beers 57 Whitbread's Double Stout (1880) Ref (22) Stou 59 Whitbread's Triple Stout (1880) ) Por ters Ref (22) OG80 OG95 Double stouts were strong porters. A heavy satisfying drink f6racold evening. The strongest of the London stouts. Similar to Russian Stout but with a lower hop rate. 2% lb Pale Malt 3 lb Pale Malt, 14 oz Brown Malt, 3 oz Black Malt 1.2 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops 3 oz Black Malt 1113 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops 1 lb Brown Malt, Method No.1. Method No. 2(b) Mature for 6 months. Mature for at least 8 months. 58 Original Porter (1750) Ref (22) 60 Younger's XXXP Export Porter (1841) Ref (16) OG90 OG 100 1750 porters would have contained mostly brown malt. These cannot be made satisfactorily from present-day brown malts. The above recipe is constructed to meet the contemporary descriptions of 1750 porter, i.e. black, strong, bitter and nutritious. It is one of the circle's favourite old beers. It might not be authentic, but it is good! The Dorchester ale recipe is probably as close to 1750 porter as can be made at present. A full-bodied porter similar to Russian Stout. A softer and quicker maturing version of this beer, that proved popular with the Circle, can be made by using Carapils in place of the Brown Malt. 31/2 lb Pale Malt 8 oz Brown Malt 8 oz Crystal Malt, 4 oz Black Malt 11/z oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops 3 lb Pale Malt J3/4 lb Brown Malt, 23;4 oz Black Malt or 31/z oz Roast Barley 3 oz Fuggles or Go/dings Hops Method No. 2(b), but boil hops for 3 hours. Mature for 1 year. Method No. 2(b). Mature for at least 10 months. 42 43 ) } ) Appendix 1. Home Roasting Pale Malt to Pale Amber, Amber and Brown Malt Some ingredients needed to make OLD BEERS might not be readily available, in particular pale amber, amber and brown malts. All three can be produced by roasting pale malt in an ordinary domestic oven as described below. Carapils with a colour number of about 25 can be used in place of pale amber up to 45% of the pale malt in any grist. Even carapils, however, might only b~ available by bulk purchase direct from maltsters. Roasting Method J 'Q't) de ,(eQ..$ .fc~ 1~ .... " ; '3 oo cl ~~'R S' 3oo J J .\'-'( 4;! ~'" .~ qs,... ~~\J d ~J~ OS J. 0 W\ ; r- po.\(' 0. < ~ ~ o. ~~'t.V"' """It ... p~vi r...A)~ Line a large baking tin with aluminium foil, and pour in pale malt to a depth of 12 mm (1; 2 inch). Place in the oven (preferably fan-stirred) at 100°C (230°F) for _!!5 minutes to dry out the malt, then raise the tem~ralure to''fsooc (300°F). After a further 20 minutes remove 6 or 7 corns from the tray, slice across the centre with a sharp knife and compare the colour of the starchy centre with that of a few pale malt corns. The pale malt is almost pure white; for pale amber the colour should be the palest buff, just noticeably different from the pale malt. Continue heating until this colour is obtained, usually about 30 minutes. For amber malt, continue heating until the cut section is distinctly light buff, usually 45 to 50 minutes. If brown malt is needed, raise the temperature at this point to 175°C (350°F) and wait until the cut cross-section is a full buff, i.e. about the colour of the paler types of brown wrapping paper. When the correct colour has been reached, remove the tray from the oven, allow to cool and store the roast grain in an air-tight screw-top jar (large kilner jars are ideal). If used soon after production, the flavour imparted by home-roasted grain is superior to bought grain. The roasting times given above are intended only as a guide to producing the wanted roast grain Practical tests on the oven available will enable home-brewers to adjus t the time and temperature to produce the colour needed. Crystal malt, which is usually available, has about the same colour potential as brown malt but a more caramel-like flavour. 45 . -~ ) } ) Appendix 2. References Colour Ratings of Roast Malts and Barley 1 EBC t Colour Range Type Lager 3 1:1 mix with Pale Malt can substitute for East India Malt 2.5-3 East India Malt 4 Obsolete. Pale 5 Standard Pale Ale Malt. Mild Ale 6-7 Munich 16- 18 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Used for mild ales and dark bitters. used at double quantities can replace Pale Amber Malt. 25-40 Carapils 2 Comments Most Used · Colour 11 A pale crystal malt that can be used to replace Pale Amber Malt. 12 13 14 15 Pale Amber (Scotch Malt) 30-40 t Amber 50-100 70 Brown 100-200 150 The main flavouring ingredient in English and Scottish Porters. Crystal 50-300 150 Being partly mashed inside the grains it can be used to replace Brown Malt in difficult recipes. 18 19 20 21 Obsolete - obtainable by special order only. Chocolate 900-1100 1000 Used in Stouts and Dark Brown Ales. Black 1200-1500 1350 Gives a sweet, acrid flavour to Stouts and Porters. Roast Barley 1000-1500 1200 Gives a drier, sharper flavour than Black Malt. ---- t :f: European Brewing Co~wention colour numbers Estimated from contemporary descriptions I 16 17 22 23 24 25 Monkton. H.A. A History of English Ale and Beer. Bodley Head, London 1966. Corran. H.S. A History of Bmllittg. David and Charles, London, 1975. Briggs, D.E. et al.. Malting and Brewing Science. Chap. & Hall. Vol1. Malt and Sweet Wort. 1981. Vol 2. Hopped Wort and Beer. 1982. Parker. H. H. The Hop IndustnJ. P.S. King and Son Ltd., London, 1934. 'Brewing' EncyClopaedia Britannica. Ninth Edition, 1876. Wheeler. D. British Patent 4112 1817. Tizzard. W.L. Theory and Practise of Brewing. London, 1857. Stapes. H. Malt and Malting. 1885. Pasteur. L. Etudes sur Ia Biere. Paris, 1876. Line. D. The Big Book of Brewing. The Amateur Winemaker, Andover, UK, 1974. Richmond. L. and Turton. A. The Brewing Industry (A Guide to Historical Records). Manchester University Press, 1990. Anon. Town and Country Brewer. 1770. Harrison. W. Description of England. 1577. Bickerdyke. J. Curiosities of Ale and Beer. 1886. Patton. J. Additives in Beer. Patton Publications, Swimbridge, Barnstaple, UK, 1989. Brewing Ledgers held at the Scottish Brewing Archive, HeriotWatt University, Edinburgh, Scotland. Nithsdale. W.H. and Martin. A.T. Practical Brewing. First Edition, 1913. Black. William A Practical Treatise on Brewing. Forth Edition, Longman, London, 1849. Anon. The Young Brewers Monitor. London, 1824. Accum. F. Treatise on The Art of Brewing. London, 1820. Roberts. W.H. The Scottish Ale Brewer. Edinburgh and London, 1837. Whitbread's Brewery Records. Mathias. P. The Brewing Industry in England 1700-1830. Cambridge, UK, 1959. Courage's Brewing Archive .. Richardson. J. Statistical Estimates. 1784. 47 46 j ·1 Old British Beers and How to Make Them-Preamble Most of these recipes are from the 18th century although there are a few gruit and unhopped ale recipes that date back to the middle ages as well as a few 20th century recipes. I have used these recipes and made some very nice ales. I would like to mention that all recipes are given per 1 gallon of-finished product so you will need to do some basic math to determine amounts needed for your batch size. Hop AAs were about 4 to 5o/o in the days these beers were made, so ifyou are going to use modem varieties with more AAs adjust accordingly. Many have noted that the Fuggles and Goldings used almost exclusively in these beers provide a more earthy/woody taste profile than other varieties. I'm just saying, if you want to get a real idea of what these been were like, I would go with the specified hops. All recipes call for a 3 hour mash. This was probably necessary with the malts available in the 18tb century. Using modern (better-modified) malts, you can probably get by with less than a 1 hour mash for OGs under 1.050 and up to a 2 hour mash for the very high-gravity recipes. Iodine test is the easiest way to verify aU starches have been ~onverted. Some brewers have found that low-gravity beers are fully saccharified in a 30 minute mash. However, most of these recipes are for high-gravity beers so you may want to use up to a 2 hour mash. You can mow the lawn and take out the trash while the mash is working. I've included a hop-utilization table. You will notice that hop utilization is greatly affected by wort gravity. These brews were made mostly with a 2 hour (or more) boil. One reason was to get maximum hop utilization, the other was to reduce volume in order to increase gravity. You may note that for all gravities, hop utilization increases only about 10% between the first and second hour of the boil. But you may also note that the hop utilization for a 1.040 brew is about double that of a 1.120 brew. There is a section on home-toasting malts in the oven. I have used this process and it makes some unique flavors. Make sure you use a yeast that is NOT overly-attenuative. These ales used a relatively low-attenuating yeast strain that left a good amount of body and sweetness. You will also note that a lot of these high-gravity brews were aged 8 months or more. Bow many of you can wait that long? I I Table 7- Utilization as a function of Boil Gravity and Time Iv~~a~~ , 1.030 , l.040 ,1.050 ,1.060 , 1 .070 , 1.080 , 1.090 , 1.100 , 1.110 , 1.120 I I I I I I 0 1o.ooo 1o.ooo 1o.ooo 1o .ooo 1o.ooo 1~.ooo 1o.ooo 1o.ooo 1o.ooo 1o.ooo 5 1 o.o55 1o.o5o 1o .o46 1o.o42 1o .o38 1 o.o35 1o.o32 1o.o29 1o.o27 1 o.o25 10 1o.1oo 1o.o91 o.o84 1o.o76 1 o.o7o 1 o.o64 1o.o58 1o.o53 1 o.o49 1o.o45 15 1o.137 1o.125 o.114 l o.1o5 l o.o96 1o.o87 o.o8o o.o73 o.o67 o.o61 20 1o .167 1o.153 o.14o 1o .1 28_ 1o.117 1o.1o7 1o.o98 1o.o89 1o .o81 0.074 25 1o.192 1o.175 o.16o 1o.147 1o.134 10 .122 10.112 1o .1o2 l o .o94 0.085 30 10 .212 ! o.194 o .177 1o.162 ! o.148 1o.135 1o.124.1o.113 1o.1o3 0 .094 35 1o.229 o.2o9 o.191 1o.175 1o.16o 1o.146 1o.133 1o.122 0.111 0.102 40 1o.242 1 0.221 o.2o2 l 0.185 10.169 10.155 10.141 o.129 0 .118 0.108 45 o.253 1 o .232 0.212 10 .194 10.177 10.162 10.148 10.135 0.123 0 .113 50 o.263 1 o.24o 1 o.219 l o.2oo 1o.183 1o .168 1o.153 1 o.14o 0.128 0.117 55 o.27o 1 o .247 1o.225 l o.2o6 1o.188 0.172 o.157 1o.144 0.132 0.120 60 o.276 1o.252 1o.231 10.211 0.193 0.176 o.161 1 o .147 o.135 1o.123 70 o.285 1o .261 1o.238 1o.218 0.199 0.182 0.166 10.152 0.139 10.127 I I 80 o.291 1o.266 1o.243 10.222 0 .203 0.186 o.17o 1o.155 o.142 1o.13o I 100 1 110 1o.3oo 1o.2~4 1o.251 1o.229 0.209 0 .191 0.175 10.160 o.146 1 o.134 120 1o.3o1 1o.275 1o.252 1o.23o 0.210 0.192 ~.176 1 0.161 o.147 1o.134 I I I I 90 I I I I l I -=- 1 o.295 1o.27o 1o.247 1o.226 0 .206 0.188 0.172 10.157 0.144 10.132 o.298 1o .272 1o. 249 1 o.228 0.208 0.190 0.174 10.159 0.145 10.133 Yeast Strains Chart Page 3 of6 suppliers, who provided all of the information for this chart. Just select a beer style from the menu below to view a chart with appropriate yeast strains to ·· · · · · ·· consider for your recipe. Key: Type=Typc of yeast, S=Siant, D=Dry, L=Liquid, Floc=Flocculation, Atten=Attenuation, Temp=ldeal Fermentation Temperature ::J !stout Name & Number TypeLab Floc. Atten. Temp. Description lOth Anniversary Blend WLPOl 0 L White LabsMedium 75-80% 65-70°Blend of WLPOOJ, WLP002, WLP004 & WLP81 0. American Ale 1056 L Wyeast Low/Med 73-77%60-72°Well balanced. Ferments dry, finishes soft. L Siebellnst. Medium High 64-72°Very clean ale flavor. American Ale BRY 96 L Wyeast High 72-76% 6()..72°Siightly nutty, soft, clean and tart finish. American Ale TI 1272 American Ale Yeast Blend WLP060L White LabsMedium 72-80% 68-73°Biend celebrates the strengths of California ale strains. Bedford British Ale WLP006 L White Labs High 72-80% 65-70°Good choice for most English style ales. L Wyeast Medium 73-75% 64-72°Ferments dry and crisp, slightly tart and fruity. British Ale 1098 British Ale II 1335 L Wyeast High 73-75% 63-75°Malty flavor, crisp finish, clean, fairly dry. L White LabsHigb 75-800/o 68-75°English strain that produces malty beers. British Ale WLP005 L Wyeast Med/High75-78% 60-75°Produces nice malt profile with a hint of fruit. British Cask Ale I 026 L White LabsMediwn 65-75% 68-73°Subtle fruity flavors: apple, clover honey and pear. Burton Ale WLP023 California Ale V WLP051 L White LabsMed/High70-75% 66-70°Produces a fruity, full-bodied beer. L White LabsMedium 67-74% 65-70°Ciean flavors accentuate hops; very versatile. California Ale WLPOOI Coooers Homebrew Yeast D Coopers High High 68-80°Clean, round flavor profile. L White LabsLow/Med 70-75% 68-73°Very clean and low esters. East Coast Ale WLP008 English Ale BRY 264 L Siebel lnst. Medium High 59-68°Clean ale with slightly nutty and estery character. L White LabsMed/Higb70-75% 68-73°Very clear with some residual sweetness. English Ale WLP002 English Special Bitter 1768 L Wyeast High 68-72% 64-72°Produces light fruit ethanol aroma with soft finish. L White LabsMed/High71-76% 66-70°Drier finish than many British ale yeasts Essex Ale Yeast WLP022 D Fementis Medium TI% 59-75°Clean with mild flavor for a wide range of styles. Fermentis US 56 L Wyeast High 73-77% 60-72°Slight residual diacetyl and fru itiness. Irish Ale 1084 L White LabsMedium 73-80% 65-70°Light fruitiness and slight dry crispness. Irish Ale WLP004 London Ale I028 L Wyeast Low/Med 73-77% 60-72°Bold and crisp with a rich mineral profile. L Wyeast High 7 1-75% 64-74°Very light and fruity, with a soft, balanced palate. London Ale IT! 1318 L Whrte LabsMedium 67-75%66-71 °Dry malty ale yeast for pales, bitters and stouts. London Ale WLP013 L Wyeast High 67-71%64-72°Ricb, malty character with balanced fruitiness. London ESB Ale 1968 Muntons Premium Gold D Muntons High High 57-77°Clean balanced ale yeast for I 000/o malt recipies. High 57-77°Ciean well balanced ale yeast. D Muntons High Muntons Standard Yeast Northwest Ale 1332 L Wyeast High 67-71% 65-75°Malty, mildly fruity, good depth and complexity. Nottingham D Danstar High High 57-70°Neutral for an ale yeast; fruity estery aromas. Pacific Ale WLP041 L White LabsMedium 65-70% 65-68°A popular ale yeast from the Pacific Northwest. L Wyeast High 67-71%64-74°A malty, complex profile that clears well. Ringwood Ale 1187 79% 59-75°Englisb ale yeast that forms very compact sediment. Safale S-04 D Fennentis High Soutbwold Ale WLP025 L White LabsMedium 72-78% 65-69°Complex fruits and citrus flavors. L Wyeast Medium 72-76% 62-72°Clean, light malt character with low esters. Thames Valley Ale 1275 L Wyeast High 73-77%62-72°Slightly fruitier and maltier than 1275. Thames Valley Ale ll 1882 L Wyeast High 68-72%64-74°Mildly malty and slightly fruity . Whitbread Ale 1099 L Whie LabsMedium 67-73% 66-70°Brittish style, slightly fruity with a hint of sulfur. Whit bread Ale WLPO 17 Low Medium64-70°Full-bodied, fruity English ale. Windsor D Danstar 71-75%64-72°A blend of the best strains to provide quick starts. Wyeast Ale Blend 1087 L Wyeast High Latest Issue May/June 2013 Most Read Most Recent Build A Heated Mash Tun: Projects • Hop Stands • Take Your Medicine: Last Call sw.bseri.be II OW fru b-UlL is.s..e http:/lbyo.com/resources/yeast 5/17/2013
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