1. hobbies and interests
2. arts and crafts
3. photography

Alex Orme ---- AKO STUDIOS
How
To
Use:
STEP ONE:
Buy ligthroom! As a student here at BYU-Idaho you can
purchase lightroom for only $98. If you like photography
and do a lot of it, Lightroom is a quick and easy way to
organize, edit and share your photos.
STEP TWO:
Download/ import photos into lightroom. Lightroom is
very user friendly. Organize and title your photos/photo
albums in the library.
STEP THREE:
Start developing your
photos. In the side tool
bar adjust the basic
things such as exposure,
contrast, highlights, etc.
STEP FOUR:
Use the tools shown below to edit your photos even more.
Starting from the left is the crop tool. Crop the photo to
the desired size and positioning. The next tool to the right
is the healing brush. This is great for portraits and getting
rid of blemishes. The icon that looks like an eye ball is
for getting rid of red eye. The second tool from the right
is a mask tool that will allow you to edit just parts of the
photo. Then the wand on the far right. This tool allows
you to highlights parts of the photo and adjust whatever
you want from exposure, highlights, shadows, etc.
STEP FIVE:
Other effects... For this photo I used the following effects
located on the left side of the screen
- Cross Process 2
- Vignette 2
- Auto Tone
- Punch
There are many effects to choice from and combine to get
the look you want. Play around with them and see what
you can come up with.
STEP SIX:
For big albums such as a photo shoot. You may want
to apply the same effects to all the pictures. Lightroom
allows you to do this very quckly and simply. After
editing one photo and getting the look you want, simply
click on copy. then go to the next photo or select all other
pictures and click paste. All photos will now have the
same effects and look.
STEP SEVEN:
The last step is to export your photos and enjoy.
Lightroom allows you to share your photos on facebook
and other social media directly from lightroom. You can
also develop books and slideshows.
Vintage Editing Tutorial
By Bailey Ferrulli
Step 1: Copy layer. Go
to Image - Apply Image
and change Multiply to
Screen.
Step 2: Go to Filter - Blur
- Gaussian Blur and set
radius to about 20.0.
Step 3: Change the blurred
layer’s blending mode to
Soft Light.
Step 4: Merge everything.
Step 5: Create two blank
layers. Using the triangle
tool, fill the top layer with
a creamy yellow (eacd6a)
and the bottom layer with
a dark blue (0b1a5d).
Step 6: Change the opacity
and fill of the two layers
to 70%.
Step 7: Merge layers and
then copy the layer.
Step 8: Go to levels and
darken the top layer.
Step 9: Mask out the center
of the layer gradually.
Step 10: Merge all your
layers together.
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This is one of those projects that causes one to easily loose track of time, simply because of how much fun it is. I
saw something similiar on the internet and decided to make it better. The colors and flames are inspiring.
Supplies
Setup
•Camera
•Lense (50 -70)
•Tripod for camera
•External Flash
•Cord trigger or hotshoe
•Tripod or place to
hold external flash
•Wine glasses, mugs,
glass bowels
•Food coloring
Location
Camera
A well-ventilated area. I ‘d suggest
a place with no flammable items
nearby.
•Zippo lighter fluid
•Rubbing alchohol
•Lighter or matches
• Plenty of Ice Cubes
•Towels for clean up
•Assistant
Set the Scene.
Be sure that you have at least a clean and clear 5
foot fire proof radius around your glass to prevent other things from possibly catching fire.
Depending on the
lense you’ll need to
position your camera to be 3-4 feet
away. Set up your
camera and tripod
to be at eye level
with the glass. Focus
on the subject, but
leave space to also
capture the splash
and the flame.
Glass
Fill the glass with
water, add your
desired color
food dye, and
position the glass
as your subject.
Camera
settings
Set the camera to
fire continuously.
Set the Shutter
speed to between
1/180 to 1/250 to
freeze the action
Assistant
Someone to help
with set-up,ignition and dropping
the ice
External Flash
Set up your external flash with its hot
shoe. I used a miniature tripod on the
counter so that I could easily maneuver and position it for different angles
and lighting. It should be anywhere
between 1-3 feet away, but feel free to
experiment.
Flash Settings
Set the flash to shoot at a
shallow depth to get a darkened
background. To force fire the
external flash, make sure you
are only shooting in live mode.
Protect
Cover flash with
plastic bags to
Execution
Note: This is a great time to have an assistant. Make sure everything is in place and ready before shooting and
also make certain your camera is properly focused on the glass BEFORE the lights are turned down. Wear
clothes you don’t mind staining.
1. Using the external flash, take a picture of
the untouched color dyed glass with the lights
dimmed to overlay later in editing.
2. Pour a small amount rubbing alcohol into the
colored water, the rubbing alcohol will float on
the surface of the water, just a little burns a long
time .
3.Next lightly coat the edges of the glass with
just a little zippo fluid. Be carful not to drip too
much down the outside of the glass, it will also
ignite.
4.Have assistant ignite the lighter fluid on the
edge of the glass with a long lighter. The glass
edge and water surface should catch fire.
5.With the lights dimmed or off. Have your
assistant count down and then drop an Ice cube
into the water so that there is sufficient splash
6.Simultaneously, just before he/she drops the
cube hold the trigger to shoot continuous photos
to capture the cube splashing down into the
water, watch out for flaming splashes.
7.Repeat as often as desired to capture the perfect photo.
Warning : Fire is dangerous. Take carful precautions for saftey. Author accepts no responsibility of any damage or injury resulting.
Freelensing
By Scott Hulme
1
Step
Set your exposure. Auto
exposure will not work
once the lens is detached.
Set your shot and focus.
You will not be able to set
your aperture.
2 3 4
Without changing your
settings you just made,
set your camera to
manual mode and turn
your lens to manual
focus.
Open the aperture fully
on the lens and set the
focus to infinity.
Put the lens in your left
hand and place it in the
mount, but do not lock it.
5 6
Hold the camera close to
your body to steady.
7
Look through the
viewfinder and focus.
Still with the left hand,
hold the lens tight up to
the body of the camera
with your thumb and
index finger on the focus
ring while pinching the
middle finger of your left
hand.
8
Rock the lens. This is
what will change your
focus. Use your palm as
the hinge. Practice
High Key Black and White Photography
By: Angie Hendrix
Before
1
3
After
Open your jpeg in Photoshop
Adjust Curves
Image- Adjustments- Curves
2
Desaturate your photo
Image- Adjustments- Desaturate
4
6
7
9
Choose input and output
Click on the middle of the line on
the graph and move it towards the
upper left corner or type in your
specific settings
I like my output at about 182 and my
input at about 80
5
Duplicate the layer
Command + J
Add a gaussian blur to the top layer
Filter- gaussian blur
Overlay blending mode
In the layers pallette change the
blending mode from normal to overlay
8
Burn and Dodge
Use the burn and dodge tools where
needed to create the affect you desire
and enhance the focal point
Flatten layers and save image as a
new JPEG
Layers- Flatten Image-File- Save AsJPEG- Create Image Name- Save
Inspired by http://www.steves-digicams.com/knowledge-center/how-tos/photo-software/high-key-black-and-white-in-photoshop-effect.html
Colorize with Gradient Maps
By Jakob Anderson
Before
After
This tutorial will teach you how to make amazing colorized
images easily using photoshop gradient maps.
1) Load your image into photoshop.
2) Open the “Adjustments Panel” and click on
“Gradient Map”
3) Set this adjustment layer’s blending mode to
“Overlay”
4) Select adjustment layer, then on the adjustment
layer’s panel, click on the gradient to adjust it.
5) Load a default gradient to start
6) Click on the lower boxes beneath the gradient to
adjust the colors on its “stops”.
7) The left end of the gradient will overlay onto the
shadows of your image, where the right end of the
gradient will overlay onto the lighter highlights of your
image, so design a gradient that is complementary to
your image.
8) You can move these hue sliders up and down to
move roughly between hues, then adjust the dot in the
colored square to fine-tune the saturation and shading
of each color. Take your time and experiment, you
never know what cool colorizing gradient you will find!
Shooting
inc.
A photo tutorial by Ben Harker
Inspired by lightstalking.com
1. Plan for the best
In order to Photograph star trails, near perfect conditions are
required. Clouds are usually not desirable when shooting star
trails. They block the stars, and you end up with a dotted line.
Check your weather forecast to make sure you have clear skies.
Another factor to consider is the moon. Stars are the brightest
when the moon is absent. Thus, shooting is best when the
moon is at the new moon stage. One more is light pollution.
If you live in a city, head out of town. Get away from as much
light as possible, so the stars have the stage to themselves.
2. Prepare for the worst
There are lots of things that can go wrong when shooting
star trails. Take a minute to prevent them. Make sure you
have fresh batteries. Choose a location that doesn’t threaten
your camera, and will stay safe for an hour or so. Most of all,
be patient. Conditions for a great shot may only occur a few
times a year depending on where you live. A shot that you
planed weeks in advance could fall through in a second.
3. Setup
Shooting star trails requires extremely long exposures. It is
very important that you set up your camera so it won’t move
during the exposure. Get a solid tripod. When setting it up,
consider keeping it low to the ground. Do not use the center
column extension. If there is a breeze, consider weighing it
down. This may sound silly, but if your camera moves the
smallest amount, the lines get thrown off track, and your
picture may be ruined. Consider using a lens hood if you have
one. This will prevent any stray light from spoiling your shot.
4. Composition
Composition is everything when shooting star
trails. Don’t just point your camera to the skies
and hope for the best. Depending on where you
live, find the North star, or the Crux constellation
in the South. All the other stars will rotate around
these. You don’t have to include these in your shot,
but be aware of what it will look like. Another
thing to do is to get something in your foreground.
Keep it farther away, as if it’s too close it may
appear blurry. Also, make sure nothing in your
shot besides the stars will be moving. If it’s breezy,
trees will move and appear blurry.
5. Shooting
6. In the mean time
Okay, getting to the camera. The first thing you will
need to do is set your camera for a shorter, high ISO
shot. This will allow you to compose your photo,
and begin to meter your light. Open your aperture
all the way (f3.5 or lower), set your shutter speed to
30 sec, and your ISO as high as it will go (ISO 6400
or higher). Don’t worry about how noisy the photos
will be, as they are just reference shots.
So you crossed your fingers, and pressed the button.
Now what? Make sure you bring something to keep
you distracted. Watch a movie on your laptop. Bring
someone along to talk to. If you are not busy doing
something, you may be tempted to end the exposure
early. Most importantly, stay close to your camera. Make
sure nothing touches it, and your surroundings don’t
change for the worse.
Once you have everything composed as you wish,
set your camera for the long shot. This is where
it gets tricky. There are no magic settings that
will work for everyone. Depending on your lens,
camera, and environment, settings will need to
be adjusted. You will probably want to open your
aperture as wide as it can go. Set your ISO back
down to 200 or so. The duration of the shot is the
biggest factor. Set your camera to manual, and set
the exposure to bulb mode. You may need a remote
or wired trigger to lock the exposure open. If you
want to get technical, you can use the high ISO
settings, and calculate the proper exposure for your
shot. For each stop of sensitivity you move down,
you can lengthen your exposure by one stop (ISO
6400; 30 sec = ISO 200; 16 min).
7. Experiment!
Let your creativity shine. If you can manually adjust
your aperture, open it wide at the end of your photo for
a shooting star effect. Maybe you want the stars to be
slightly out of focus. Block off light in intervals to create
a dotted line. Try some light painting of your foreground for an added flair. Most importantly, have fun!
Creating & Adding
Bokeh shapes to Images
By: Bree Tervort
This is a fun tutorial that will add a nice dream-like bokeh texture to any photo. I love this
effect because, it can almost instantly turn any photo into a soft dreamy photo. It’s really
simple, and may seem like a lot of steps, but it can easily be done in less than fifteen
minutes. This can only be done with a 50mm lens, and you can do any shape you would
like, stars, hearts, triangles, bows....anything really. I got the idea from a couple different
websites, [http://www.diyphotography.net/diy_create_your_own_bokeh] [http://photoshopgirl.com/08/11/how-to-add-bokeh-textures-to-your-photos/].
First
find a nice thick sheet of black
paper, and trace the circle of your
lens with a pencil.
cut this circle out, along with a 3/4
inch strip of paper.
Next
cut out a small shape into the center of
your black circle. ( I chose a heart.)
tape the circle around your lens using
your strip of black paper.
Now to shoot! Find some source of multiple lights. (I used christmas lights for this tutorial)
Set your lens with a large aperture, & go way out of focus on the lights. & shoot!
First
find & open an image that you want
to add this bokeh to, and open the
bokeh image that you shot.
Next
drag the bokeh image on top of
your subject image.
And
select your bokeh layer and change
it’s opacity options to lighten.
Then
reduce the opacity to where
you feel fits, it will vary
depending on your images.
Finally
Viola! Your image is now
more fun & festive! Not to
mention adorable!
Turn a 2D Photo into a 3D Video
Using Adobe Photoshop and After Effects
Using Adobe products together can produce amazing
results. This tutorial teaches how to change a photo into
a 3D video. This skill is often used in professionally
documentary and can create a really cool effect with
photos.
Matt Bessey
Step 2: Divide into Layers
After you have selected a photo the next step is to crop the
photo into several layers. There are many ways to do this.
You can use the pen tool, magic wand tool, quick selection
tool, etc.
I decided to use the quick selection tool as seen here.
Step 1: Choose a Photo
The best kind of photo to use is one with a blurred
background and/or different layers of depth. For the case
of this tutorial we will use a simple photo with a blurred
background.
This is a photo of Max.
Make sure to save the selection for later use.
Next click on the marquee tool (this looks like a dashed
rectangle)
Then right click on your
selection and choose “Create
New Layer Via Cut”
This will divide the photo into
two layers.
Continue this step for each
object you are separating from
the original photo.
Step 3: Cover the Edits
After cropping the image out of the background image there will be
holes in background.
We now must fill this space, you can use the clone tool, or content
aware fill.
If you have saved your selection from early then just simply reload the
selection.
Then select content aware fill.
Touch up spots with the clone tool as needed to make the background look realistic.
Step 4: Import into After Effects
Step 5: Adjust Images’ Size and Depth
Create a new composition in After Effects and select Import.
Once the photos are loaded into After Effects select each layer
and size them to fit into the film window by scrolling out and
selection the corner holding down shift and sizing the photo
down.
Next you can either import a full composition
(a psd file) or separate photos of each layer.
Step 6: Create Camera and Film
Change the layer into a 3D image by pressing “f4” and selection
the 3D box on each photo.
Next change the z-depth by selecting the photos blue arrow
located in the center of each photo and sliding it backwards
(the background) or forwards (the other layers).
Now selection “Layer,” then “New”, then “Camera.”
Selection the 35mm preset to keep things simple.
Next click on the camera layer and press “p” and “shift-a” to
create a stopwatch for “Position” and “Point of Interest.” This
will allow the photo position to change and create a video.
Make sure to resize it to fit the screen (the x and y axis) by sizing
it as you had before. This will make the photo appear as it was
before changing the depth but the depth has been changed.
Now select the depth tool on the tool bar, if you can’t find it
try pressing “c” to toggle through camera movement options.
Afterwards start the two timers by left clicking them.
Then press the space bar. Let the video play for a few seconds
then press the space bar again. This will create a “Key Frame.”
Now select the video and zoom in a little or create any kind
of movement event that you wish by toggling (with “c”)
through the movement options.
Continue and create more Key Frames for as long of a video
as you wish you create.
Step 7: Render and complete
Once you’ve created the video effects you want to create,
select “File”, “Export”, then ”Export to Render Queue.”
This should take you to the render queue. Simply select
render and save the video.
Inspiration: http://www.videocopilot.net/tutorials/virtual_3d_photos/
Photo: Taken October 2012, Rigby ID
And that should do it—you have now created a 3D video
from a 2D photo!
TEN STOP NEUTRAL DENSITY FILTERS
by Kirsty Cain
What is a Neutral Density Filter?
A Neutral Density (ND) filter reduces the amount of light
that gets to the lens and hits the cameras sensor. A ten
stop one, reduces the amount of light by ten exposures.
Its like sunglasses for your camera!! They are called
Neutral because they are not supposed to affect the
colours in your photo and filter out all colours equally.
Why use a Neutral Density Filter?
Because they reduce the amount of light, a ND filter
can affect your exposure by allowing you to use a wider
aperture, and a slower shutter.
When to use it?
• Smoothing water movement in waterfalls, rivers,
oceans, etc.
• Achieving a shallower depth of field in bright light
• Reducing diffraction (which reduces sharpness) by
enabling a larger aperture
• Making moving objects less apparent or not visible
(such as people or cars)
• Introducing blur to convey motion.
Both photos were taken at the
same time of day at f/11. The
one to the left is using a ND
Filter which allowed for a 8sec
exposure, and the one above
without at a standard exposure
of 1/160sec.
What you need:
CAMERA: DSLR with full manual settings
FILTER & ADAPTER: It is a round screwin
glass filter that screws into your lens.
You will need to know the diameter of
your lens to get the correct size filter.
The diameter, is shown on the front end
of the lens, in millimeters (mm).
For example, if you notice a Ø58mm on
your lens, it means that a screw-on filter
that is 58mm in diameter will fit that
particular lens.
It is best to buy a filter that is bigger
than your lens, say a 77mm, and then use
adapters to fit your lens. Good ten stop
ND filters can be expensive and so its
easier and cheaper to buy a large filter
and use adapters to fit your different
lenses that buy numerous filters to fit
your lenses. Adapters can be found on
Amazon for under $3 each.
TRIPOD & REMOTE TRIGGER: to work
with your cameras Bulb (B) setting.
Both photos were taken at the same time of day
at f/8. The one to the left is using a ND Filter which
allowed for a 10sec exposure, and the one above
without at a standard exposure of 1/500sec.
How to use it:
Set your ISO to a low number such as 100 or 200.
Set your exposure mode to Manual.
Set the aperture to f/11. Then set the shutter speed to get a
correct exposure.
Frame up the image using a tripod & check composition.
Focus on the focal point of the picture using autofocus
(AF).
1
2
3
4
5
6 Turn the switch on the camera body from autofocus (AF)
to manual focus (MF). This means that the focus is now
locked (but be careful not to touch the focusing ring on
the lens!).
Take a test photo.
Put the neutral density filter on the front of the lens.
Use the table to the left to convert the shutter speed in
step 3 to the one you’ll need with the picture.
Fire the shutter with a remote trigger. Time the exposure
using a watch, then close the shutter with the remote trigger.
7
8
9
10
Inspired by:
EXPOSURE CHART
To save the hassle of working out
correct exposure when using a 10
stop ND filter, take a meter reading
without the filter in place, locate it
on the chart below then read across
to find the exposure you need to use
once the 10 stop ND filter is in place.
Unfiltered
exposure
1/500sec
1/250sec
1/125sec
1/60sec
1/30sec
1/15sec
1/8sec
1/4sec
1/2sec
1sec
2secs
3secs
4secs
Exposure with
10-stop ND
Photographics Society &
http://www.redbubble.com/people/peterh111/journal/4421304-the-ultimate-guide-to-neutral-density-filters
2secs
4secs
8secs
16secs
32secs
1min
2mins
4mins
8mins
16mins
32mins
48mins
1hour
Time Lapse Photography
By: Haley Reese
?
1
2
3
4
5
A time lapse is a series of still shots
that are that are later put together to
create a moving image. A time lapse is
a very effective way to show sunset or
sunrises or show changes over a period
of time.
Find a busy scene or plan to go out
during the sunset or sunrise.
Take your remote and set the duration of
time that you want your camera to take
the shoots. You can also yes a remote
with out a timer and count a couple of
seconds between each shot. However
this method may take a while and your
time lapse might come out choppy from
inconsistent time in between shots.
Using a remote time will make the
process go a whole lot faster. Make sure
that you get plenty of pictures because
every 30 images equal about one second
of animation.
Place your camera on a tripod and
adjust it the desired height.
Set the camera to Manual mode and
Manual focus. Make sure that your
camera is not on Auto ISO, this with
cause your time lapse to have flashes.
After this take a couple of test shots to
figure out the correct settings for the
scene you are shooting
Set your camera to continuous shooting
so that your remote timer will work
correctly. Then plug the remote into the
camera.
Time Lapse Photography
...Tutorial continued
6
7
8
9
Press start on your remote, there
might be different ways of doing this
depending on the kind of remote you
have. If you only have a simple shutter
release remote without a timer then
press the button and let it take a shot.
Then count 5 seconds before taking the
next shot
After you have your images, organize
them into a folder.
Then open up Photoshop CS 6. Press
File>Open. Find your folder and click
on the first image. There should be an
option that says “Image Sequence”.
Check the box by it and press Open.
Enter in your frame rate. The standard
frame rate of 30 should pop up
automatically. This should be just fine
for the time lapse. Press Ok.
10
Photoshop should create your time
lapse video and put it into timeline on
the bottom. With this timeline you can
add audio tracks and adjust the speed of
your video.
11
Last click File>Export>Render Video.
Now you have a time lapse video. It is
ready to uplode to Youtube.com or to
share with your friends.
Tutorial: How to make a movie poster
Brooke Koster
1.
Select 2 photos. One of a person or
thing that you want to be the main part of
your poster. The second photo being the
background. Or you can just make it any color
you want such as black. For this one I just
chose one photo to work with.
1.
2.
If you have two photos, cut the
main photo out so that it will be able to
be blended in with your background. Put the
photos onto a document sized 600 pixels
(height) by 900 pixels (width) with a 72
resolution. This will give you plenty of room.
2.
http://psd.tutsplus.com/tutorials/designing-tutorials/action-movie-poster/
3.
Copy and paste your background
into the picture or change the color to
whichever you desire. Since I am just
using this one picture, I just moved it
to the new document.
4.
Then, add the photo of the main picture.
Make a duplicate of that layer. Depending on
what type of movie poster you want, you can
play with the levels and saturations. I’m doing
more of a dramatic movie poster so I made
the colors a warmer tone. I also added a poster
edge filter to the top layer of the picture and
brightened that up as well up to 123.
5.
To make it more of a poster
feel, I added a poster edge filter to the
top layer of the picture and brightened
that up as well up to 123.
6.
Text is very important. Once you
have the pictures the way you want
them, you can add the title to your
movie. Create a new layer and add some
text. Make it big and readable.
6.
5.
7.
Contrast is important so that you can
the text. I added a drop shadow to the Title
then I added a black rectangle to the bottom
the poster. I turned the opacity down to 68%
the rectangle and put white and orange
text on it.
7.
read
and
of
on
Stencil
YOUR PHOTO
Step 1: Open your photo in photoshop and make a copy
of the background layer. command+J
Step 2: Isolate the portion of your photo you want to
make a stencil and select the rest of the layer using the
magic wand tool. W
Step 3: Using the brush tool, paint all of this portion of
the layer a solid color (usually white or black). B
1
2
3
4
5
6
Step 4: Posterize the image with a color selection between 4 and 10. Image -> Adjustments -> Posterize
Step 5: Change the image to black and white by adjusting the threshold (usually around 100).
Image -> Adjustments -> Threshold
Step 6: Remove islands in your image by using the
brush tool to connect all the white areas in the image.
B (X to toggle between colors)
Step 7: Add any extra design elements or text.
Step 8: Cut it out and stencil away!
String
By Ashley Boardman
Tripod
This handy little gadget is a convenient way to reduce vertical camera shake
when you are on the go. Inexpensive and easy to make, a string tripod can
help you get sharper photos.
Steps
1. Assemble Supplies
If you don’t already have these
supplies around your house, you can
find them all at your local hardware
store, or even at Walmart.
Large washer: It needs to be large
enough that you can step on it easily.
¼” screw: The shorter the better so
you can leave it in your camera if
you want. Just take your camera with
you to the hardware store if you are
unsure of the size.
String: Fishing line works best
because it is light and durable, but
you can use whatever you have.
2. Put It Together
Start by tying one end of the string
to the washer. Make sure all of your
knots are secure, such as a square
knot. Next, you will need to measure
the string to your body. Step on the
washer and pull the string straight
up to a comfortable height for your
camera. Cut the string and tie this end
around the screw.
3. Attaching to Camera
To attach the string tripod to your
camera, simply screw it into your
tripod mount.
4. Shooting Pictures
Now that you have everything
assembled, it is time to shoot. Simply
drop the washer to the ground and
step on it. Next, pull the string taut
and take a picture. As you do these
actions think “Drop, step, pull tight.”
Inspiration: http://www.brighthub.com/multimedia/photography/articles/31585.aspx
The tension from the string will
remove the majority of camera
shake.
5. Changing Heights
If you want to take a shot either
closer or further from the ground
than you originally measured, it is
easy to change the length of your
string. For shortening, just use your
leg or arm to push the string to
the side. You can even wrap the
string around your arm or leg if
you need to take off a lot of height.
For lengthening, simply attach the
washer to something higher up,
such as a belt loop or a table. For
both of these techniques make sure
that your string is tight when you
are ready to take your picture.
6. Storage
You should store your string tripod
in a way that will allow easy access.
You don’t want to pull it out and
have to untangle a string, missing
the perfect shot. The easiest way to
store your string tripod is to either
wrap the string around the washer.
You can also wrap it around your
camera if you leave it attached.
7. Practice Makes Perfect
It takes several times of using your
string tripod before the actions
feel natural. The more you practice
the easier it will be to capture that
perfect shot quickly.
Before (Post camera editing done) Ariel Demaree After 1. Make your History log larger, so you can go back more steps. a. Go to Photoshop  Preferences  Performance i.
On the right hand side, under History & Cache, up your History States. This allows you to have more steps in your history to go back further if necessary. 2. Do any regular adjustments you need to with levels or anything else. 3. Make canvas size bigger by a couple inches or so. 4. Add guides to edges of picture 5. Add a filter, any one you want, that you think would add interesting texture to your image. 6. Take a snapshot of the filter you added. Ariel Demaree 7. Rename the snapshot. I like to name it what the filter is called, ex. Oil Paint. 8. Go back a step in history, undoing the filter, and add a different filter. 9. Repeat steps 6-­‐9. I like to choose 5 or 6 different filters. 10. Command + Delete = Deleting original image. 11. Start Painting and Have Fun!! Other Examples: Silhouette Tutorial
by Lauren Nielsen
1.
Take a picture or find a picture of someone’s profile.
The lighting does not have to be perfect as long as the
person’s profile is clear and defined.
2.
3.
Open profile image in photoshop.
Use the quick select tool to outline their profile.
You may want to use the lasso tool to clean up spots.
Also make sure you get the details incluting little hairs
sticking up and eye lashes if they are visable. This will add
character to the sillhouette
4.
Once you have the selection you would like hit ctrlshift-I to inverse the selection or go to selection at the top of
the screen and chose inverse.
5.
Hit delete to delete the invered selection leaving only
the profile.
6.
Once you have the profile go to your smart filters
at the bottom of your layers pallette and change the
hue/saturation all the way to black. This will create the
sillhouette of your image.
7.
Add a mask layer to your profile by clicking on the
square with a circle in it at the bottom of your layers. Then
using the paint brush on black fix the parts that need to be
cleaned up a bit.
8.
You can then add other embelishments such as a
colored or textured back ground, the person’s name and the
year of the image. You may want to crop the image to the
size you want. Make one for each of your family members
for a keep sake. This makes a great mother’s day gift or
something to add to the scrapbook or the hallway wall.
Inspiration from http://thecraftingchicks.com/2010/04/
silhouettes-for-mothers-day.html
Creating Fog
by rachael anthoney
inspired by:
<http://techtips.salon.com/make-fog-photoshop-22457.html>
before
1
2
3
after
Open any photo you wish to add fog to in
Photoshop.
After the photo has been opened, create a new
layer by using the icon that looks like a folded
piece of paper in the bottom right corner. In
this new layer, use the brush tool (found either in
left palate or command+b) at 3% hardness with
white and paint over the area you wish to have
a misting effect. Change the opacity to about
53%. [You can change the size of the brush with
the left (makes it smaller) and right (makes it
bigger) brackets. Use command+d to change
color boxes to black and white and command+x
to toggle between the two colors.]
In a new Photoshop document, open a photo
of white clouds on a blue sky. It is preferred that
these clouds are different shapes and are fluffy
in nature.
1
4
5
6
7
With this new photo, change the saturation so the
photo is black and white (found under image->audjustments-->black and white). Then, with
the levels tool (image-->adjustments->levels), or
command+l, darken the brights and lighten the
whites. Have the preview box checked so you
can see what the final photo is going to look
like.
Grab and drag the photo of the clouds into the
open document with your other photo. Hit enter
to move the place the photo. While the layer with
the clouds is highlighted, change the overlay
mode to screen which will change all the black
in the photo to transparent. Then choose free
transform command+t or edit-->free transform.
This will allow you to move the corners of the
photo to fit over the area you’d like. In the case
of this photo, we’ll place it over the water.
Once you’ve placed the first layer of the clouds,
you will add a Guassian Blur. In order to do this
go to filter-->blur-->gaussian blur. This filter will
change the clouds so they don’t have such a
sharp and exact outline. They will look more like
fog now.
You can change the opacity of the clouds to
make the image look more like fog. Feel free to
copy the cloud layer (command+j) and place
them in different areas so that there isn’t a
repeating order to the clouds. Change the
opacities of various layers until you get the
effect you want.
2
Photoshop Water Reflection Effect
by
Original Image
Taylor Romney
Final image with water effect
1: Add canvas space and reflect image
First duplicate the background layer by pushing cmd+J. It will create
a new layer labeled “Layer 1” on the layers pallet. With Layer 1 still
selected go to Image - Canvas Size (Fig. 1). Make sure Relative is
checked. Change inches to percent, leave 0 in width and add 100 to
height. Click the top middle anchor box then click OK. This will add the
needed canvas space under the original image.
Fig. 1
2: Reflect image
We now need to reflect the image. With Layer 1 still selected go to Edit Transform - Flip Vertical. This will flip the layer upside down. Using the
Selection Tool (V) pull the layer down to fill the open canvas space. This
will appear as a mirrored image.
3: Create Halftone Pattern layer
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Add a new blank layer (Fig. 2) on top of the current layers, which will
name itself “Layer 2”. Push D to ensure white is the foreground color.
Push cmd+delete to fill the layer with white. Then go to Filter - Sketch Halftone Pattern (Fig. 3). Make sure pattern type is Line, adjust Size to
desired ripple thickness, I prefer 12. Increase contrast to 50. Click OK.
The layer will fill with horizontal lines. To finish this layer add a gaussian
blur filter to soften the horizontal lines.
4: Save layer as separate document
Right click on Layer 2, select Duplicate Layer. Change Document to
“New” and change Name to “Ripples”. This will open the new document
in its own tab. Save the document as a .psd and close the tab. Now delete
Layer 2 so there is only Layer 1 & Background left.
5: Create water ripple effect
Merge the two layers and create a new layer by pushing
shift+option+cmd+E. This will again create a “Layer 2”. Go to Filter Distort - Displace. Change Horizontal Scale to 7, and Vertical Scale to 0.
Make sure Stretch to Fit and Repeat Edge Pixels are selected. Click OK
and choose the document we saved earlier and click Open. This will give
a rippled water effect over the entire image.
6: Hide effect using mask
Fig. 4
Select Layer 1 and hide the other two layers. Use the Rectangular
Marquee Tool to select that whole layer. With it still selected click on
Layer 2 and add a layer mask. Unhide the other two layers and you will
see the ripples have been removed from the top half of the image.
7: Create new Hue/Saturation adjustment layer
Select the mask on “Layer 2”. While holding down the “option” key
create a new adjustment layer and select “Hue/Saturation”. In the New
Layer pop-up (Fig. 5) make sure to check “Use Previous Layer to Create
Clipping Mask” then click OK.
Fig. 5
8: Desaturate the water rippled effect
In the adjustment window (Fig. 6) reduce the saturation to -30 or
whatever amount is preferable. This will desaturate the water rippled
effect and keep the original top layer saturated.
Fig. 6