1. hobbies and interests
2. needlework

THow
to flfcake
Battenberg
point Xace
ano
BY
NELLIE
CLARK
Published
THE
PRISCILLA
BROWN
by
PUBLISHING
BOSTON,
MASS.
COMPANY
MRS
5G910
The
iqoo
Publishing
Priscilla
Boston,
1l
8tCUNU"-OHV.
Copyright,
By
6
Mass.
Company
How
Make
to
and
Battenberg
$
Point Lace*
Selectionof Materials.
jHE
The
The
and
instruction
modern
much
deserve equal
with
various
lace
that
Some
of
to
as
getting
of buttonhole
stand
stitch
each
floss
when
twisted
should
Nos. 70
or
80
Nos.
stitches,
crochet.
or
thread
be used.
in the
For
are
40 to 60 should
braid
wider
calls for
braid requires. None
should
be
work.
To avoid
used
but
of the
the
fashion
the cotton
ball.
On
across
from
thread
fingerof the left hand
twist and
For
should
Moulin"
for the purpose
had in numbers
invented, and
is shown
This
in
miniature
provides for
in six different
The
The
around
the
gauge
the
of any
thread
chosen
finest lace, Nos.
This
1500.
1000
while for doilies and
to
are
to
to
1500
a
Nos. 400
threads
to
are
600
are
excellent
most
for
For
should
handkerchiefs
heavier thread.
slightly
good. In making Honiton
use
thread
effective.
600
l.
Ring
Gauge
Ring
Point
and
ness.
thicknecessary
The thread or
fob
and
and
holed
Button-
Battenbekg
pass it
around
be
loose
of its
To do
needle
a
repeatedly
the
roll
of
Lace.
threads
by
pushing
the needle between the threads and the ring gauge.
When
it is closelyovercast,push the thread ring
carefullyoff the ring gauge without marring its
circular shape. To do this successfully,
give it a
very
used,
to 1000
series of littlepushes with
princesslace, around
The
ring
times,
the ring of
of
this, thread
it is advisable
Nos.
and
be
of the
enough to allow
being overcast.
be
may
make
to
the
is the
the
section
floss should
linen lace thread, manufactured
30
thickness desired.
floss is wound
or
sufficient number
a
perhaps twenty,
Fro.
from
in Fig. 1.
making of rings
sizes,and permits of
the
their being made
lessen its liability
to
in France.
and
little
a
a
puncture in the lid of which the
thread may be drawn without risk of soil or injury.
Thread bags of various kinds may be used instead
of the box.
threads
point lace the best thread
side
the in-
box, through
through the thumb
to
from
to
end
an
excellent rings may be bought read)-for
but many
ladies prefer to make
them.
For
their use a very handy little ring gauge
has been
tangle.
needle
"Petit
be drawn
thread
put the ball into
thread,the needle should always be threaded from
the right end of the thread, and before working
and
the centre
balls of thread
for any part of the permanent
knots and tangles in the working-
the
be used
side of the
one
ball unwinds
of most
should
paper
should
By pullingthis
be selected,
according
of
This
the thread
It is advisable to
filling-in
than
soil.
passing
the circumference.
tightly
for the
from
use,
it is
more
protector for the thread,
a
as
of No.
of stiff
Very
ing
cover-
When
size from
the
to
Rings.
covering of the
finer thread
a
so
good for
are
the degree of fineness desired in the work.
-narrow
the centre
overcastingthe braid,
be used, while
may
removed,
in the
soft,indefinite
a
thread
distinctly,
out
be
serves
it free
is discovered,and
each has
desired, is the right thing for their
desired to have
not
twine.
threads that
resemble
fillingof rings, and,
effect is
keeps
ball is a thread
linen
value of many
a
lessened because
and
jjood,
are
the
which
and
varying in
balls,
1500
large ball
the outside is pasted a ring
Arouud
paper,
braid.
cotton
a
threads
twisted
slightly
to
and
working thread,as well as all other parts
wtrk, should always be linen. There are
its friends.
ring
smooth
a
should be taken to avoid
care
made
of the
the
time
in
comes
tinyball of No.
from
cotton
braid. The beauty and
pieceof Battenberg lace has been
The
30.
care.
a
it was
finer and
Thread.
Great
This thread
the
the
pattern beingchosen, select
braid.
apply-
point lace.
delicate,
requires more
more
patience. Both
Braid and
rules
same
Battenbergand
latter,being
to
coarser
now
Battenberg lace.
a
its circumference
ring
of threads
thread
1
which
the
thumb
around
until it slipsoff.
held
is coiled
in
placeby
around
it.
the
and
It is
casting
over-
It may
now
be
may
be covered
finished in either
and
stitches,
it may
be
with
resemble
so
the
with
covered
or
two
row
of
one
close
a
ready-made ring,or
close
a
It
ways.
buttonhole
The
end
have
Rings for the needle point lace
single
of
row
may be fastened by passingit
through the threads of the ring. If the needle is
crochet.
should be taken
the rings exactlyalike,care
the thread circle the ring gauge exactly
number
of times in each. ring.
the same
make
to
should
be very
should be wound
thread
slender and delicate. The
around the gauge from four to eight or ten times,
ring,and carries then overcast and buttonholed. Crochet is not
for these dainty rings. When
tute
substithe
thread a short distance from
the finishing practical
a
for the ring gauge
is desired,bone knittingplace,and then with another stitch returns to its
To
the end will be safelysecured.
or
needles,pencils,
tinyglassbottles may be used.
starting-point,
through
thrust
of the
body
the
Basting and Overcasting.
is bastingthe braid
first work
aHE
representedby
threads
should be
the braid and
been
basting thread
as
in
is shown
the progress of the
line or curve, to which
outer
the
basting,to
inner
be carried
should
illustration
the
basting continued
along what
the
curve,
the work
the time when
the
the worker
completionof
(Fig.2),and
is
middle
the
now
the
outer
the
as
to
of
the braid around
BRAID
BASTING
Point
IN
BATTENBERG
AND
to
be rather close and
basting stitches should
tightly
the braid firmly to its place. Should
stitches be loose,the puttingin of the
will
be
inevitablydraw
drawn
the braid from
the pattern and spoilthe
of the design.
and curves
Back
so
The
forward
firmly will hold
one
taken
broad and
so
only
able.
advis-
closelyand
securely,and
are
easy
the outer
oppositeand
its
obtuse
shallow
to
necessary
as
for corners
corner
to
of
(Fig.3, a),
be almost
follow the outer
a
curve,
of the
curve
braid,and allow the resultingfulness
remain loose until the overcastingstitches draw
it down
In
the
into
sharp
be basted
or
to
shape.
acute
the
angles(Fig.3, b)the braid may
point of the angle,and
extreme
the edge of the braid,as
nor
where
rises in its might,
employed
are
the fulness folded over,
the lines
work
curve
a
an
its
place on
possible
im-
result
be observed in turning corners,
should
methods
lace stitches
necessary
stitches
the braid
hold
the basting
of
perfection
stitchingis neither
to
as
a
Corners.
care
patternof
Lace.
as
edge.
different angles. In
it is
through the
utterlyspoilthe
placingthe stitches
longinglytowards
reaches
and various
should
pleted.
com-
it is almost
tight,and
in
care
righta piece of
make
Great
or
be basted
curve,
it too
draw
amount
no
Turning
short,and
the work
see
edge will curl up and
outer
work,
inner
The
the stitches makes
to
the braid
following a
when
not
and
OF
of the
should any but
any circumstances
of braid be basted through the
Should
middle.
can
METHOD
task
pattern just at
straightlength
edge of
2.
stitched to the pattern
the
from
unusually eager
under
Never
a
the braid
across
curve.
FIG.
is back
that
tedious
unnecessarily
an
separatingof
the open edge of
line of the pattern
upon the outer
When
braid.
pattern changes the
have
makes
placedthrough
designatingthe
you
ing,
bast-
In
line.
of the
line
outer
double
a
Braid
to remove.
is
edge of the braid should follow
pattern, and the basting
one
the
the
to
patternsthe braid
In most
pattern.
the
so
fold will
lie
along the second side of the point.
In a sharp angle the fold of the braid may
be turned under (Fig.3, c),the fold being so
that
the outer
its ends reach
along
the basting is continued
from
edge of the braid
or
the exact
pattern
also
lated
regu-
point of
to the
exact
point
of
the inner
and
corner
edge.
This
forms
niitered
a
divides the point exactly in halves.
Still another
angle of
point.
(Fig. 3, d) is applicable to an
way
degree, but it cuts off the end of the
any
In
this
method, when
the braid
itself at
upon
the
is
the
simply
angle necessary
over
allow
to
either side of the fold to follow
in which
the order
the
braid
the line of
the design.
similar.
braid
of the
the side
under
preceding loop. This
the
is taken
pointwhere
right hand
down
the
upon
scallop. One
braid into
braid
seldom
as
as
Braid
In
all
Corners
on
form
and
a
is cut
Cubves.
and
will
or
pattern
stand
not
hook
working thread
the
to
should
out
to catch
prone
dragged
from
the
will
hold
of
out
all
stitch
will
Hurried
times.
many
corners,
of
perfection
the
stitches
carried
the pattern
to
beyond
repay
the
basting,with
often results in great loss
work.
the braid
scallops or
between
but
3ut
braid
them
(Fig.3, e),the
doubled
upon
loops, with
back
the outer
reaches the braid
upon
one
width
ping
overlapof braid
braid should
itself.
not
Baste
be
the
edge of the design until it
that checks
its course.
Turn
it
are
or
loops on either
scallops
the braid may
3,
e)
(Fig.
side of
be put
a
than
when
it
a
series
with
the
all been
edges
place.
pass
into
must
curves
do this
fine linen
very
should
and
To
carefullybasted
of the
they must-
thread.
and
over
This
the
over
of its marginal
each
the edges of spaces to be filled with twisted
bars, spiders,wheels, and other similar stitches
the working thread
thread
be omitted,and
the
its
of
in
proceeds
course
of
the
The
to
pattern, but
inner
it should
working
show
be
not
it must
fit as
it
the
lessened.
be drawn
its place
tight enough
as
flatly
as
stitch.
when
be
gathered edge smoothly down
pattern, where
its
tight
the
on
hold
to
to
the
opposite
edge.
the overcastingthread reaches
Whenever
needle
will
in this way
the braid from
draw
of the
completing the
should
overcasting thread
enough
point
braid into place
work
overcastingmay
from
pass
the passage
utilized to draw
Familiaritywith
work
must
the braid, the overcasting
of
pointalong the edge
central fig- where
on
many
On
outer
}f
of
on
loops. Only occasionally,
very large,slightly
curved lines,
may a loop be here and there omitted.
of the pattern of the next
scallopor loop.
braid
of the
edge
the
the design of the pattern contains
a
overcastingthread
back upon itself so that the fold just touches the
other braid and may
be overcast
to it. Let the
edge of the returning braid follow the outer line
Where
with
be overcast
may
series of
has
also be brought into
and Loops.
Scallops
a
the
cuttings,ami
appearance
full inner
place,the
where
the pattern contains
neater
two
opportunity.
at every
After
into
to
Where
loop
be
the risk
at
two
or
points securelyand
loose points and
of time and
A
the braid
point of
expended
care
shape.
it is
way
which
around
projection,
will be
a
the pattern
from
much
a
that
of the
Overcasting'.
such
in
pricked fingers,tangled thread, and
of
presents
Lace
Point
and
the point of the braid
cases
securelyfastened
that its end
Battenberg
Basting
of
saves
or
doubled
basting fastens the
place. It is best to cut
and this method
possible,
turning back the braid
Method
the end
with
back
of
row
layersof
reach
and
Lay the
pattern,being sure
to
braids
the bastings
is doubled
held in the left hand.
that
long
justsufficiently
or
must
the two
nearest
fingersof the left hand,
in the
the fingersof the
braid
loop.
the braid
before the basting of the preceding loop is
be done
under
this
better
the preceding
of
the opposite side it is best to turn
On
diverge,the end of the braid
3.
A
sides.
by having the two siiles
tinning the braid back upon itself
or
top of the loop,it is brought """""/"
In
completed.
Upon reaching
Fig.
but
they come,
the two
is obtained
appearance
is apat the end
proached,
the already basted
upon
point
turned
foldingsin
of
destroysthe similarity
two
edges
should
be
of the
braid
meet
or
a
place
cross,
the
passedthrough both braids,either
ill
simple overcasting stitch
a
buttonhole
When
knot.
side to the other
one
should
in the
When
the
outer
one,
braid
the
through
to
opposite
and
should
not be
only, and these uniting threads
tight enough to bring the rings firmly
a hinge,which, while
as
together,but should serve
the
to move
allows them
rings together,
be
under
no
circumstances,
should,
freely. Rings
sewed
together along their circumferences,as the
it
Cutting the Braid.
keeps
placehaving
other
braids.
ends, should
when
braid
again reach
you
This
makes
or
the
manner
the
two
braid,that
be
The
side.
work
a.
no
with
the
turned
either
very
ragged edges
of
folding over
little thicker
just
be
may
the
at
seen
either
on
the
makes
ends
should
Knots
to the other
overcast
carefully
point, and is
which, if
finish,
easilynoticed than the other
and
done, is hardly visible,
carefully
should
appear
equally neat
of
the
is
especially
rings it
forth
and
braids with
to
to
on
both
sides,it
of two
of the
each
When
thread.
made,
needle,
the
between
times
at
pletion
com-
permits
be
should
means
three
or
a
change
of
thread
new
needle
with
is necessary,
that
the
thread
then
be
be
should
hold
the
the
when
the
placing
them, to be very careful to see
is always uppermost.
Very pretty effects
size of the rings
the
obtained
graduating
by
same
When,
ring
side
are
in
a
one
to
in the
used
thread
may
be overcast
an
must
guard
be
may
its
fastened
along
the
tie the
the
end
the braids.
A
back
of
predecessor.
of the
course
should
thread
until
two
which
at
be made, and
then
occasional buttonhole
knot
The
sightbetween
should
these
place
through
carefullydrawn
knot
between
the
is to be fastened.
second
a
passed
point toward
the
braids,
intersection of two
at the
is to be fastened
the
it
lie removed
through
place If the needle
and twice upwards,
ring four times, twice downwards
it is sufficient. As the ringsare not exactly
alike
knot
backstitch
of the
the direction
buttonhole
ber
remem-
is thrust
in
two
tiny
a
thread
a
the intersection
fasteningto be made at
braids,a single buttonhole
and the thread
passed, by
back
the
When
perfect.
the limit of
justdisappearsfrom
is well
that the
later.
and
or
the
braids
the Pattern.
bastingon
basting threads have
Only enough are needed to
When
stitch
a
the
sides of the work
both
to have
lace,and
in any
appear
never
aim
worker
fitted for the finer laces.
to
is
manner.
that
more
Basting the Rings
catch in this
Fastening the Thread.
hemmed
and
over
been
to
the
These
braid.
other
the
over
completed,it
stitches has
the thread
lace
impossiblefor
the
placed
or
neatly,
down
the work
of the
side
under
the
and
After
right side.
side the
the
rings
pattern,the right side,
be reversed,and
should
procedure
of
ends
with
dainty
the basted
apt to catch between
pattern, and so delay the work.
of attachingthe rings to the braid
is very
thread
two
design put
overlyingbraid
have
to
the side next
should
ends
that
all
requires.The working
of the work
the progress
as
and
first,
of the
pointin the
at
not
the rings to the pattern only
It is best to baste
the
braids.
two
the end
the upper
it is desired
If
work,
joiningof
the
as
crossing of
and
clumsy,
and lace-like.
ture,
junc-
up and
braid
over
the
under
end
tin- second
first.
the
at
occur
the second
Pass
the
to hide
braid
under
well
design,as
to the
braid
other
or
corner,
a
down, and lay the one upon
them
Overcast
together at the end of
The beginning of the basting of the
the other.
both
no
at
meet
braid
of the upper
end
a
of the
the end
fold
braid
of
the
is stiff and
effect
the ends
of others
row
drawn
overcastingcontinued.
Where,
a
the ringsto be placed
patternrequires
together that they touch,they should be
by threads entering each ring at one point
united
side, where
be taken
stitch should
buttonhole
another
its
as
the space allotted
close
so
the
in size
decrease
side may
largest*
be the
ring may
centre
either
on
the
When
be taken
carefully woven
thread
the
curve
becomes
curve
point where
at the
braid
and
changes
curve
inner
stitch should
buttonhole
of the
edge
in the
the
those
they approachthe end or pointof
lead
to them, or a large ring may
of decreasingsize.
thread
of the overcastingthe
course
a
passes
The
series.
or
row
and
from
sides.
at both
changes, and
of the braid
single
a
edges the
braid
of two
them
connect
with
or
thread
the
work,
to
edge
knot,
thread
the
of the
or
to
end
of
a
singlebraid,it
a
braid with
hole
single buttonthe edge of the
a
braid, and the needle may then pass in a
with an occasional
of tiny running stitches,
along the body of the braid for a
series
stitch,
backshort
distance.
The
by
from
the
be
similar
a
direction
retiringthread.
to
thread
new
the needle in
the work
taken
that
the
by
is
the thread
hole
button-
continued,two
thread
new
the side of the
on
opposite the ending of the former thread.
stillless
to make
the place of juncture
serves
side.
wrong
stitches cannot
as
design and background.
composed of two parts
design should be prominently brought out,
and other
and, to accomplish this, the network
"
The
Ribbed
wheels
easilybe
so
and
worked
other
some
the wrong
better on
the
on
other stitches appear
some
side upon which
Other
they have been worked.
stitches appear alike on both sides. The ing
overcastbraids together,and
of two
able to be considered
be
patterns should
lace may
be
has its advantages
Each
side,and
conspicuous.
All
side of the
the rightside.
and disadvantages.The aim of the worker should
always be to make both sides so neatlyand carefully
that they are equally beautiful,
and
there is
no
stitches that
in with
filling
well,when
permit, to begin the
space
This
considered
all that is necessary.
are
It is often
When
along the braid
At the point where
and
fastened,
knots
opposite
working,either
then be carried
should
manner
ending of
the
upon
the
each thread, often appear
side and mar
the
upper
work, but with
that
care
side is up,
the wrong
effect of
be avoided.
can
the
When
be exercised
must
care
spider- placing the rings,which
beginningand
more
plainly
in
also be wrong side
showy
If there is any fear of soilingthe work, it is
backwebs, bars,and other open stitches for the ground.
up.
it wrong
It is well to put in the background. always advisable to make
side up.
The
under side is usuallysmoother,but the pressing
of the
stitches first,
as
they will hold the curves
be used, keeping the
stitches should
braid in
preserve the
is finished.
place,and
until the work
shape
sign
of the de-
finished makes
piecewhen
of the
and
smooth
must
both sides
equally
handsome.
Preparinga Sampler.
should
lace-maker
VERY
which
upon
prepare
holland
When
pler
sam-
a
reproduce the
to
used, no
"
additional
the smooth,
shinyholland
background
is needed.
is
"
When
cambric
is used,it is necessary to line it with a sheet
be
may
of
until
and
strong but not too stiffpaper, or a light weight
worked,
out,
repeated
proficiency
With narrow
canvas.
is acquired, and
this without danger of
tape or Battenbergbraid a
lace
various
stitches, which
cut
in
soilingor
in
will
in
the
in
comfort
of
compact,
a
satisfaction to be had
prepare
holland
to
a
make
sampler
to
to
new
sampler to
a
is checked
in
off
in one-inch
oblongsone
inch
by
braid presents a
very neat
is delightfully
appearance, and
firm if it is first basted
those
know
the
in place and
through the
size of
obtain, and
a
hundred
machine.
this
are
to
the lace-worker.
new
view
of
this, and
stitches in
the sampler
common
that
to
the
are
use, it is well
large.
sufficiently
on
the
last piece of
should
one
up
the cut
braid.
Or
covers
stitch
there
The
stitched
that passes around
the others like a frame and
their devotees,
A
then
centre
braid to be attached
be the
a
the kodak
What
stitches.
album
sampler is
great prize and is eagerlyadded
In
bric
cam-
size of the collection of stitches
hopes
collection.
over
this
squares and the remainder
one-half inch in size,as
in the possession
required. The
is
the stamp
and
becomes
use
sampler an oblongpieceof
the
upon
great incentive
is the
If
sampler.
the worker
so
prepared
Only
for
them
and
or
book
practicalform.
have
a
depends
part of
work
introduced.
be
who
this
To
to
in Fig. 4.
shown
The
practised in this way the worker
for
the
are
and
miliar
fanetworks
become
besides
while
squares
end,
having
wheels,
very
for insertions and
trated the oblongs are
have them illusbars.
the various stitches,
The
with
workers
is
stitch
is
stitch
every
of
spoiling the piece
way
any
the
which
the
Fig. 4.
pleb
show
to
Diagram
for
Lace
of
Sam
Stitches
ends
of
sampler
on
an
all-over
may be made
lace pattern; this would
the best applicationof
the various
a
shaped spaces.
the different stitches
Stitches. Bars.
Lace
be classified
stitches may
ACE
bars,
as
The
and networks.
wheels, insertions,
ground
in the backfirsttwo are used in filling
fillingin of
the
for
reserved
are
the insertions
designs,while
of
networks
and
These
bars
arrangedaccording to fancy,
in clusters
are
with
tied through the centre
series of buttonhole
a
tying thread
this
knots,and
the design itself.
be
may
of three,arranged in
grouped
centre, or are
pointsand in rays from a common
placedin parallellines,when they are sometimes
and
overcast
the
are
as
bars.
Sorrento Bars.
simplest of all stitches. The
fastened securelyin the proper place and
the
bar, is
is
thread
carried
i h J j a j a
"
a
space to be
the
across
ib t
the
over
either
the
or
by passing
edge of
held
a
work
The
and
worker
is
a
bar may
is fastened
carried
four
thread
The
the space
across
times, according to the weight
it
is then
hole
button-
loop
of
is then
lower
threads
is
the worker
each
and
helps to
and
twisting
keep
avoids the
a
selvage of
rope
or
back
turns
point from
which
pleted
com-
one
another
gun
is be-
finished bar in
curl
series of overcastingstitches along the
the
double
thread
braid.
bar, Fig. 6, is formed
twisted
castingthree threads
across
These
by
space to be filled.
stretched
threads
are
the braids without pullingthem
their
from
then
together
threads
to
the
around
them
like
a
is fastened
a
the
of
just
For
is overcast
bar
below
all tendency to
the
the
last
along
the
various
Venise
ways,
bars.
and
stitch.
braid-edgeto the
the
of the second bar, and
position
These
buttonhole bars may
repeated.
desired
in
son,
rea-
same
is reached, the
ing
is to be worked, the work-
series of bars
thread
of the bar keeps the
avoids
of shape.
end
the
low
braid-edge be-
often
are
process
be grouped
called Point
de
the
show
tendril.
Bars with
Buttonholed
Pinned
Picots.
an
casting
coilingof the overwinds
thread, which
between
place,and
the
the
are
in
allows
effect that
foundation
barLE
Ft"[stki.1
places. They
overcast
open
Where
the
to cause
them
just sufficiently
to lie in a straightline between
the
when
of
loop
threads
twist out
or
The
stitch.
one
place with
carrying of
falls in
but
position,
the foundation
itself.
upon
is carried from
right
to be thrown
not have
does
effect,
into
either from
left; but the former is
the easier,as the thread
Bar.
around
of
row
to
hole
Button-
Plain
precedingovercastingsin place, working of each
end of the bar, working thread
loop in the nearer
bar to the
by
or
overcasting of the thread
working thread
The
The
better twist
7.
a
right,or from
left to
the
the thread
where
a
secures
the
which
stitches,
be worked
may
of toward
instead
into
one
with
smoothly
Fig.
from
overcasting away
The
the
placed,and
are
buttonhole
of the bar is
reached.
one
braid-edge
the
and
entire bar filledclosely
repeatedlypassed under
tightly
working thread drawn
oppositeend
working
carried
the foundation
which
the
from
three,or
size of the
The
bar desired.
then
the bar, and the
each time, until the
securelyand
or
than
is
used, as
filled two,
be
to
thread
needle
The
nearer.
be
desired,the plain buttonhole
in Fig. 7.
bars
twisted
the
than
heavier
bar
ing
the second attach-
Twisted
Bar.
When
that the firstfastening
so
of the thread is away
5. Plain
Bar.
Plain Buttonhole
braid
the
fastening it with
knot.
again
and
pattern
secured
through
smoothly
it is held
where
filled,
Fig.
the Sorrento
plaintwisted bar,Fig.5, also called
The
When
open
picots(alsocalled
dots
or
purls)are
bar, they are formed
at intervals of halves,thirds,
the work proceeds,
as
quarters,or according to whatever arrangement is
small pin is thrust into
See Fig. 8. A
chosen.
desired
on
the
buttonholed
the pattern at
with
distance from
a
the
desired
working thread
carried
behind
the
and
outside
The
needle is then thrust with
at
of
the
right angles
and
the
loop
ing
correspondpicot. The
pin, and is
The
just made are
picot is completed.
the
until
threads,
pin. Bar with Two
One
of the
buttonhole stitch,
down
a
the
has
pinned loop
just reappeared
stitches consists of
upon which
knots.
One
of these
bar
by passing the
the
to
8.
BUTTONHOLE
Bak
Fig.
9.
Picot.
Pinned
Buttonhole
the
side
or
Bar
first stitch is
The
is
the foundation
behind
threads.
is then
drawn
buttonholing is
is
then
the
tightlyto
close to the last buttonhole
stitch
on
bar, and
the bar.
The
picot
the process is repeated. When
it
than one
buttonhole
stitch is
that more
desired,when
is desired
far
sufficiently
the
in
Bar
the
others
the
In
the
of
continued
for
Picot.
picot,the
prepared
six
or
is
threads
foundation
stitches
more
holing
button-
beyond
the
the picot is to begin; or, in other
words, the buttonholing is continued to the farther
proposed picot.
of the
carried
back
stitch,and
it and
the
the
to
seventh.
threads
the
close
is then
sixth
It
needle
between
to
the
This
This
is done
end
of the
the
two
the
of
thread
nearer
loop.
reversed
buttonhole
closelyto
the foundation
threads. The
result is two
close
and
the foundation
hole
button-
by
a
neath
be-
Fig.
Bab
11.
Rows
of
Two
with
Dots.
parallelto
threads.
stitch is placed upon
The
next
hole
regular button-
the foundation
threads
just far enough from the former pair to permit the
in of the space between by the pairof stitches
filling
to
10. Bar
prevent the
picot from curling
holed
Button-
with
Picot.
up
out
of
the
the foundation
of two
to
place. along
work
so
side.
length.
The
placed close
continued
threads, which
buttonhole
its
the other
stitch is then
and
and
stitches.
from
be worked
buttonhole
Fig.
eighth buttonhole
of
threads,over
stitch is drawn
of
thrust
seventh
upwards
needle is then
them,
secured.
is then
which
on
drawn
the
tiny bar of the thread
is
the sixth
and
(the end
loop
is
stitches secured
buttonholing. Again it
buttonhole
is
foundation
the thumb-held
again
the end
to
is carried back
The
thread
foundation
the
over
The
or
upper
passed between
then carried forward
and
The
is
thread
thumb, and secured beneath
a
end
the
nearer
foundation
point where
end
loose
passed back
buttonhole
the
making
forming
threads.
Buttonhole
The
is
bar,as
Fig. 9.
with
of the
the end
it, thus
one
shown
stitch ;
stitch. This
manner:
threaded) is then
is
needle
is fastened
allow
it and
lower
the
threads.
thread
of the
loose end
The
whose
closelybetween
be fitted
to
the bar to
from
the
rightside,
placed along
in the following
toward
the picot in place,the first one
to bind
of
hole
securelyclose to the just completed buttonit.
stitch,by placing the left thumb
upon
held
until another
continued
the
regularbuttonhole
a
to
across
the braid
to
This buttonhole
worked
stitch
to
reversed buttonhole
a
working
right-hand
thread
one
foundation
the
The
is carried
under
side of
sides of the
the
at
returned
knots
buttonhole
edge of
the second
from
needle
Picot.
with
braid
threads,
buttonhole
each
on
both
there secured
It is then
braid edge.
and
being
proposed bar, and
of the
of
exactly alike.
be
to
of two
rows
threads,causes
is fastened
thread
two
rows
effective bar
most
foundation
a
worked
are
foundation
finished
ofe
prettiestand
the opposite side,and
with
The
of Dots.
Rows
the
by
end
PIG.
then
buttonholed.
of the bar is then
remainder
the
tI!8
threads
foundation
three
buttonholed
foundation
held
thread, which
other
the
the bar, under
to
bar
the
is passed under
and
over
the
of
length
stitches
at
to
to
reversed
its
panion,
com-
the end
will show
of
groups
regular intervals
The
the
entire pattern is then
completion. A group
the first regular and
inserted in each
The
reversed,bringing
positionfor
side of the bar into
unfinished
knots,
reversed,is then
buttonhole
of the two
second
the
of the spaces left for this purpose.
cate
bar of intria closelycovered
result is
and
appearance,
fact,the
of
a
braid-like "effect.
very
worker
accomplish a
piece of lace which, though containing a braid,is
To do this, a long,narrow
entirelyhand made.
cambric,is secured.
stripof holland,or paper-lined
The
ends
then basted together,and a large
are
dation
To this the two founhoop or ring thus formed.
at regular intervals in
threads are couched
In
a
ambitious
may
straightline,circlingthe hoop
sufficient to furnish
times
the
of
number
a
Fig.
requiredlength of
12.
Raleigh
Bars.
braid.
buttonhole
pairsof
The
length of
the
down
foundation
the threads
other
the
daintystripof
side of
"braid"
side of the
one
on
Bar
then worked
are
holland
couching threads
The
the
The
threads.
reversed,and
knots
is
hoop
the
braid
released.
The
The
pleted.
com-
with
like
loop-
a
threads,which may also
the filling-in
if
stitches,
of foundation
larger size
desired.
A
than
The
stitches.
results from
pretty network
very
of this pair of regularand
use
work
is done
in rows,
net
second buttonhole
stitch of each
and
is
TfTrrTTTfT3
bars
to
bar.
first laid
are
be filled,using a
thread.
coarse
loose
sufficiently
often put in
the
twisted by the working thread
loop is made.
the next
another
as
threads
exactly
I .
II171. H
are
with
This
its
13.
XX
sx
31
IT
Buttonholed
increases
the
may
be
before
but
or
triangles,
of form.
irregularity
its
so
tightlythat it is difficult
or
impossibleto
through
is
draw
them.
the
The
placed upon
coil, and the needle
drawn through with the fingers
of the righthand.
The
in
Stitch.
so
semicircle.
a
reached.
This coilingof the thread about the needle may
.lengthserves
desired irregAt the intersection of
be used in various ways.
ular
two
irregularintervals.
in
up
that the coil is drawn
tightly
The
of the
buttonholing
is
bar, against which the picotwill rest securely,
continued
until the point for the next
picot is
After the foundation
be worked
coils
be drawn
the
Picot
with
almost into
plished
placethe buttonholingis accomoccasional
picots,either pinned,lace,
at
B
thread is pulledup
space
bars are
they
twenty
left
times
its point.These
left thumb
all in
stitch may
of squares
^^a,
.
KS
needle
the
several times
twisted
of the bars.
bullion,worked
or
This
and
division,
appearance
^*
kx^
reversed.
These
that
from
closelyand evenlyalong the
length of the needle,but not
stitch bars is
throughout
to
so
this stitch the foundation
In
through the
stitch,and
of thread must
Bullion
of the buttonhole
rightten
around
it n
Un
nmjp^fl
Bar
form
placedis reached.
part way
the thread wound
to
RaleighBars.
Raleigh
for the
covered
are
last buttonhole
Fig.
Another
thrust
two-stitch,
except that the
pairis
preparedas
threads
the picotis to be
is then
needle
are
These
be
reversed buttonhole
like the Brussels
called the
threads
stitches set close together until
placewhere
The
in Bullion Stitch.
bar.
buttonhole
the
lent
edges furnish very excelopeningsfor the needle,when the filling-in
stitches are placed.
A wider braid may
be secured by increasingthe
of
foundation
plainbuttonhole
of the
appearance
number
Picot Made
then
cut, and
then
are
with
the
of
twisted
of
twisted
the
filled with
regulardesign
chief beauty lies in
a
forming
a
with
8
bars four
bullion picots,
meeting at
be placed one
intersection,
tween
bemay
each right angle formed
by the meeting
point
threads.
network
a
checkerboard
a
See
Fig.
of lines at
appearance
14.
A
space
right angles,
when
pleted,
com-
quartet of these bullion picots at
intersection, is very effective.
each
whose
Closelyworked
networks
may
be embellished
with
Fig.15.
in
bars
shown
as
needle
the
completed
network
the
at
point which
of
Fig.
Way
14.
the network
end
of
around
Quatrefoil
Working
of
Bullion
in
The
figure.
the
point
of times
fill the
to
is to be the outer
of the needle
is then
between
space
coiled
sufficient
a
is
fully repaid by
beauty of
The
the result.
foundation
usual
three threads
across
one
is laid
the
of
corner
of
loosely
space to be filled. These
foundation threads are then
Fig.
Branched
IB.
tonhole
But-
buttonholed for about
Bars.
figure, closely
half their length,when
the working thread
is carit
ried
pears
reapto the point selected for the end of the next,
through
and
thread
sary
neces-
ground
accomplish this back-
to
the
the
and
labor
and
the
Stitch.
the point which
at
the
is
be the centre
to
time
The
through
especially
appearance,
in this
down
buttonholed
presents an
extra
is passed
case
branched
fect, rich
ef-
good
is filled
background
with
loop. A second
suppliesthe new
which
ber
num-
the disap-
The
of the needle.
and reappearance
pearance
and the needle and
thumb
is placedupon the coil,
and
third passing of the
foundation
is then- buttonholed
when
third foundation
a
is continued
This
is accomplished.
thread
this next
for
for half
its
loop,
length,
is prepared.
until the
spacingof the bars
placing of these
completethe buttonholing
When
in
the
drawn
through until the coils are closely bars it is necessary to
of an
unfinished bar before another
is begun, it
together,but in a straightline. The needle
should be done, but the work should be so planned
is then thrust through the point where it made its
that the thread need never
be broken, but will
work
former
disappearance,and the coil lies on the net-
thread
held
like
these
tiny leaf. Clusters
meeting at a common
a
coils
of three
four of
or
centre
are
very
All
a
upon
bullion
rounded
completednetwork, and
when
it is desired
have
to
it lie
flat,a
be taken
may
through the network
stitch
and
the
the
under-side
picot,thus
coiled
the
to
Fio.
15.
Stitch
Trefoils
Worked
in
Bullion
on
holed
Button-
Three
and
attached, make
See Fig. 15.
stem
loop
a
very
curely
se-
the network.
picot
coils meeting at
Foundation.
with
a
a
unfinished
by
one
the
one,
bar awaiting
completion,and
buttonholingof the bars is
completed.
Bar
Lace
with
The
lace
Picot.
picotsare
See
formed
Fig. 17. The pin
pinned picots,and the
and
and
over
behind
somewhat
is placed
thread
the
passed
foundation
worked
or
the
pretty clover leaf.
wide
to
admit
of the
use
already given,branched
in
pin should
allow
bars spaces too
of the bar stitches
of any
bars
one
near
will be very
They may be used with
fillingin backgrounds.
appropriate.
good effect,also,
A
four
to
the bar
buttonhole
be
snugly
set
Bars.
it is desired to fill with
piece
of
lace
the
loop.
should
the
in order
be
pin
to
"
17.
with
"
Buttonhole
lace
picot.
"
Bar
as
cover
the foundation
Fig.
it
as
side
inreappears
the sides of
The
loop.
upon
"When
threads
be far enough from
Buttonholed
open
around
between
stitches
Bars, or
differently.
for the
as
before, but
tre,
cen-
to
Branched
bar to bar.
of
ing
fasten-
bullion
the next
so,
circuit from
being placed,the work of completing
buttonholingof them is begun. The completion
of one
loop bringsthe working thread to
also be worked
picotmay
continuous
a
the bars
the
effective.
The
in
pass
The
first
placed as
possible,
entirely
loop.
The
x
other three stitches should
closelyand evenly,the
follow the first ones
lying against
one
last buttonhole
the
Bars.
as
insertion
an
bars
vers
at the
middle
of
edge
long narrow
equallygood.
are
of
carried
and
for
and
braid, one
brought across
length of the space
and
attached
braid,the
the centre
from
the
The
r
ie d
by
stitches
the
a
the centre.
then
carried back
parallelline
to
It is
until
Fig.
18.
Point
of
number
first end
of the
space
to
spiders are made
plain twisted
on
passed behind
the two
or
pair of
across
the side
used without
the
all the
is
threads
buttonhole
a
spider is then
This
and
loops.
knot
or
the different
20.
Spinning
cross
There
in the centre
whose
to
preferred
thread
drawn
needle
over
by the bars
tightlyor
This is continued
half bar is overcast
are
until the
the remaining
dius
ra-
regular over
are
results in
10
and the thread cut.
various
plest
kinds of spiders. The simFig. 19, and is formed
by the
and under weaving of the radii,and
is shown
halves of
space. They form diameters,
the
first bar divides
radii of a circle. The
is overcast back to the startand
halves
into
space
the
not,
as
Wheel.
or
that they all
the
to
be fastened
radii formed
spideris of sufficient size,when
Fig.
overcast
may
accomplishedby passing the
under
keeping the woven
snuglyto the centre.
manner
is
tinued
con-
woven.
and
a
is
ing-poin
each other, and
The
in such
loops
Spiders.
gether with
Wheel.
side
The thread is then overcast along the
edge of the braid for the required distance and
the space, crossing the first
again carried across
thread and entering the braid at the right place
peated
and overcast back to its beginning. This is re-
The
size of
the
depends on
They are cast
be filled at distances from
Spinning
the left
side loops
of the bar is continued
the next
until the last bar has been
19.
the
braid,at the right
the process is repeated. This
centre,when
Fig.
point of
of the work, is
of the space is completed.
filling
connectingbars the Point d'Anvers bar is
sometimes
dation
foun-
a
bars.
short
For
lines of thread should
of bars
the space.
left bar and
the
until the
The two
or
the
the
is then
It is then
placefor
reached, when
Bar.
Wheels
JHEELS
It
the right,and
over
the
a
the opposite,or
.space,and fastened.
d'Anveks
the
end
woven
the weaving
being in place,
to
in
the bars.
bar and
left,equallydistant
from
the
point of
end of the work.
brought under the
and under the last passing of the thread
rightbar
across
overcasting
distance
from
side of the space.
car-
the
passed under
through the edge of
carried
end.
is then
is then
needle thrust
of the
opposite
thread
the
The
ing,
weavduring the preceding
the edge of the braid at
as
rightas before,and, with
the
over
space as it is removed
by the overcastingstitch
at
thread
The
the
to
distance
same
and
over
Then
passedthrough
the left side of the space, with
needle toward the alreadywoven
is then
the
distance.
leaflets is made.
loops or
the left bar
over
and is
the right. It
stitch to
side
of
pair
weaving stitch
or
for the desired
of the weaving brings the working thread
space to be filled, process
it
the right bar. It is then passed behind
over
along the
the
first
so
darning
a
them
under
spaces, Point d'AnThe thread is fastened
end of the
one
passed in
used
For the filling
in of leaf-shapedspaces, and
the
tightlyacross
tightlythat they will draw the
braid
out
of place. Keeping these
foundation
the working thread is
threads absolutely
parallel,
space, but not
the bar.
Point d'Anvers
drawn
and
be perfectlyparallel,
last
stitch of
in
keeping every
alternate
radius
on
the
of
side
upper
thread
spider when
the
finished.
the
between
of
threads
radius
will
the
circling thread of
the spiderfrom rollingupon
keep
itself. Another
alternates
and
all from
the
under
wheel
before given. The
under
two
The
of these
the
Wheel
with
Knotted
Cikcles.
radius and
hide
is carried to
radii admits, in fact
or
Fig. 21.
more
with
These
the
Fig.
continual
by
circles are
the
to
as
shown
two
series of knots tied around
or
the
sufficient distance,and
in.
When
enough
of the radius
off. Smaller
and
other
a
second
circles have
is overcast
and
spiders,Point
three
spider
the
the
may
the
with
made
on
a
the
wheels
a
The
23,
founda-
11
has
thread
carried
radius and
over
on
to
where
one,
is
process
peated.
re-
The two
"shells,"
rosettes,Figs. 22 and
with
ribbed
coil
wheel,
and
the thread
ways
be combined, and
result
is
Fig.
a
seen
very
that
in drawn
Rosettes.
wheel
or
in the finished
needle toward
is often
spinning
Tbjs resiuts
twist
point
effective rosette
The
raised
this
radius at
the next
similar stitches may be placed at the
become very effective.
also called ribbed wheels, are
one
it
under
wrong
the worker
which
the
tying of each knot, and
SpinningWheel
which
is thrust
one
is then
fastened
Venise
shown
as
do
To
passed.
been made, the rest
de
the last
over
...
a
the pattern,these
next
needle
uext
always
the last radius around
circle is knotted
the thread
the
both
Upon completing the circle a few
overcasting stitches carries the thread a
more
is
the lace is being made
When
be made
of the
true and
perfectly
spider. To form these
is overcast
the
manner
under
.
radius
up.
under
each radius.
at
each
time, with
be
tne
m
must
ternating
al-
in
Wheel
Rosette.
right side
the spider
circling
knot
Spinning
22.
side
buttonhole
a
last radius
times,and the
of
of the thread,tied at
rows
equallydistant from
circles
the
radii.
prettyresult is obtained
or
and
the odd number
the
necessitates,
of the bars
with one, two,
the centre
Here
this
thread
passed,and forward
Fig. 22.
radius
one
(see
Fig. 23),and the thread
is again drawn
into position.
in Fig. 20.
before.
as
the second
the next
radius
diameter.
This
under
carried back
over
each
radii,and also
them
In many
uneven
placesthe putting in of the
bars may
be so regulated that their completion
permits a final half bar, or a radius,instead of a
A
needle is then passed under
working
21. Spinminq
lar
simi-
spider or
closelyand firmlyin
up
In
Fig.
thread
same
for the
working thread is carried
radii,drawn
dius
ra-
view, as shown
spiderwoven
threads
effect is produced
by skipping one
over
the foundation
place.
in every circuit of the
thread forming the spider.
This
of twisted threads crossingin the centre
to
twisted
two
a
The
tion
occasionallypassed
the coil
23.
Detail
Wheel
work.
The
Spinning
of
Rosette.
centre
is worked
the upper
or
working side for a
sufficientspace, when
for a similar space the work
is reversed,and the coil worked on the under side.
on
Insertions.
passed over the right-hand
loop,under the left-hand thread, and
drawn
on the loop
up. It is well to leave the thumb
till the stitch is nearlycompleted,as it avoids
positeleft.
Plain Russian Stitch.
It is then
thread of the
,HE
plain
Russian
is
stitch,Fig. 24,
the
simplestof the
tangling the
insertions,
and, like
is
insertions,
all
long,
narrow
suitable for
in
spaces
and
thread
causes
a
more
even
twist-
is then
brought up
thread,which
slipped
the
holds down
Again the thumb
the
the left side and
on
design of the pattern. This
is accomplishedby a
series
throughthe braid at the left
of buttonhole
ing
alternatstitches,
the
side of the space
is repeateduntil the space is filled.
effect'
be produced by using the
The same
may
from
one
Fig.
is
securelyfastened
farther,left-hand
with
the
thumb.
braid
needle
held
The
is then
work
and
The
again secured
is then
by
time
and
other
the
is not
Column
of
makes
needle
the
as
left
the
stitch
on
under
passes
of the space to be filled is a
while
all those on the other
stitch,
held
the thread
stitch may
be varied
thread in the middle
Twisted
Russian
by tying each
with
ing
cross-
buttonhole
a
twisted
stitch makes
This
In
knot.
at
stitch,Fig.25, is
in the
complicated. As
more
alternate
from
former,the
but the method
rightto left,
the thread down
with the left thmnb
The
thread
the latter,the
be
filled. The
evenly outwards.
effectmay
differs.
at
and
thumb
Fig.
placed upon it as near
the point of fasteningas
is
and
the thread
is
practical,
broughtto the right and again
ing
slippedunder the thumb, formboth
an
loop,
open
upon
sides of which the thumb
25.
at
the
sian
Twisted
Bus
Stitch.
right,with
The
needle
through
the
the
is
then
to
20.
Column
order
when
the stitches,
the
Stitch.
the
pronounced,will
of the
Insertion of
and, if the
almost
meet,
spokes of
a
and
have
or
is
the appearance
wheel.
is
a
very
curve
smaller side of the
evenly and quiteloosely.
the stitches along the inner
space must
be made
in order that the stitches of the two
together,
12
verge,
con-
curve
Along both sides of the long,narrow
space to be
of Brussels net (singlebuttonhole)
row
a
filled,
If the space
op-
of
coils
SingleButtonhole Stitch.
stitches is worked
rests.
thrust
edge of the braid
point directed
by reversing the
is
then
Fig.
The opposite
be obtained
of the twisted side will
the space
the
be filled,and
twisted threads will radiate
stitches
corner
twisted
be
stitch may
of the
outer
curve
the
of holding
is fastened
the upper left-hand
carried forward over
to
trifle
a
the
a
side of the
Stitch.
Russian
around
times
more
place to
The
the working
with
stitches,
or
very
pretty insertion for either
straightor curved spaces.
in this way.
This
This
side
one
plainRussian
the needle pointingtoward
side are twisted Russian
Holding the thread down with the
thread passed three
it impossible
to make
a wrong
twist, alreadytwisted thread.
never
rightside.
in Fig. 26, is a combination
shown
stitch,
stitch. Each
plain and twisted Russian
right side.
thumb
or
in results.
even
as
side of the space, with
the
the loose side of
over
Stitch.
Column
the left
repeated from
loop and under
needle is thrust
The
before.
thrust
is carried
thread
as
and with an overcastingstitch
plainRussian stitch,
extra
the
twist; but this takes more
producing
or
ward
broughtfor-
the rightside of the space,
on
toward
pointingdirectlyacross
braid
The
thumb.
upper,
against the pattern
needle
the braid at the left side.
through the
in the
It is then
corner.
the space and
over
by the left
through the
stitch.
SIAN
thread
Rcs-
Plain
24.
to the other.
The
the thumb
under
closer
rows
will be in
between
pairs,with each loop of the inner side
loops of the opposite side. This
Insertion with Cones.
two
When
fastened
effect is desired,cone
heavy, showy
a
insertion
be
may
used.
to the middle
of
working thread
The
end
one
of the
is
space
to
be filled. A
singlerow of plainRussian stitch is
throughout the length of the space. The
worked
stitches of this Russian
Fig.
27.
Insertion
an
Stitch.
hole
button-
makes
on
the two
connects
do this the thread
the
Buttonhole
either side of the space, and
regular spacing for the Russian
even,
which
Single
placesa loop oppositeevery
arrangement
stitch
of
insertion must
be
placedat
but somewhat
far apart. Upon
regularintervals,
this as a foundation,the cones
are
placed. These
worked over
each pair of threads divergcones
are
ing
from
the braid.
tached
The working thread is atto the pointof divergence of the first two
threads,which is,in other words, the point where
the thread forming the Russian
stitch is first
stitch, attached to the braid. The thread is then carried
To
of the needle over
and under these two
by means
end of one
of
at one
divergingthreads until a closelywoven, cone-shaped
is carried from side
reaching from its point at the edge of the
figure,
of net
rows
is fastened
of net
stitches.
and
stitches,
This
side,looping into each net stitch in turn.
connecting stitch may be either plainor twisted
Russian
stitch,or, as shown in the cut, may be
plainRussian on one side,and twisted Russian on
rows
to
the other.
Column
stitch may
Insertion of Buttonhole
A
also be used.
Stitch.
pleasingvariation of the foregoingstitch
very
Fig.
by arranging the singlerows of Brussels
stitches with the loops directly
oppositeeach
is made
net
The
other.
filled with
space
a
row
between
of double
two
Russian
rows
braid to the middle
is then
stitch.
Insertion
Cones.
with
of the width
of the space, is
finished.
This
The
stitches of either plain or
by placingtwo
is made
the
29.
a
working
is then carried
thread
series of overcastingor
the other half of the thread
foundation
or
by
of
means
twistingthreads
which
side of the first cone
along
is to form
on
one
the other side
of the space. The braid being reached,the thread
is carried through the open margin of the braid at
the
pointwhere
A
enters.
cone
the thread
is
woven
of the Russian
the working thread carried
threads
Fig.
twisted
close
or
28.
Insertion
Russian
compact
of
stitch
Buttonhole
in
each
Stitch.
loop. Where
on
Insertion with
A
a
insertion is desired,tripleor
stillmore
the
cones,
the
before to the
as
ing
adjoin-
oppositeside of the space.
Reversed
massive
and
stitch
these threads,and
over
Cones.
effect is produced by
in this way
ing
revers-
having their bases
quadruple Russian stitch may be used. This is
accomplished by placing three or four Russian
stitches in each loop. For all ordinarypurposes
Russian stitch is all that
double,or at most triple,
space.
A more
is necessary.
less compact effect will
or
thread.
be gained bv using a finer or coarser
The
of plain Russian stitch is worked
first row
throughout the length of the space as before. A
rest upon
the braid along the sides of the space to
the pointsof each pair of opposite
be filled,
and
cones
13
meeting
at the
centre
of the
width
of the
second
of the
row
the first in such
a
stitch is then
same
that the
manner
is attached to the braid
attachments
justhalf
of the first row.
threads of the two
worked
three
over
working thread
between
way
This
results
the
At
loop, and
net
then
net
pairof
one
of four
"bead," the
around
the filled
one, which
the next
is
the first pair,to the next
was
loop. This
loops,when
net
of the
"
bead
"
one
once
around
once
joined,as
the
completionof
the
working thread is carried
in the
crossingeach other exactly
rows
necessary to make
times
threads.
posite
op-
brings all the overcasting
carryingthe
stitches to the next,
thread
the
on
from
side
same
of the work.
Insertion with Small
Wheels.
make
this pretty stitch,the space
to be
filled is first covered with an insertion of plain
To
Russian
Fig.
Insertion
30.
Reversed
with
stitch,having the
stitches
The working
of the width of the space.
and under the first
thread is then carried over
that will
threads
in the
meet
stitch
thread
second
oppositebraid.
the
cones
worked
are
either side of
on
each
cross
Insertion
Fig.
27
the long loops opposite each other,is worked
both sides of the narrow
space to be filled.
working thread is
the end
loop to which
The
loop and
in
the
one
carried
then
needle
each
opposite
are
other.
To
under
the
is thrust
then
gether
joined to-
these
make
loop at
the
Small
must
cross
lie
or
a
loops the
right side of
the
knot
to the
oppositeloop,under
fasten
may
wheels
together,but it
to
under
is not
into
basket
two
threads
the next
wheel
on
that will hold
weave
needle
of the
of
alternate
completion of
the next
is passed behind
finished wheel, and to
intersection
(seeFig. 32),where
is worked.
it is desired to make
half wheels
may
the work
be worked
alternate connection
These
will
the side nearest
The
the
number
an
a
be
must
be worked.
point of
braid.
the crossing of
over
securely in place. The
the next
every
begun
uneven
being
the weaving thread
(five),
wheel
When
14
them
There
and under
which
the space, across
out between
also the needle passes, and is drawn
the other
the loop and the braid. This is repeated
of
is
or
Bars.
to
of the
each
D'Alencon
end
one
the effect is better if the weaving
wheel
or
of
necessary, and
the work
Insertion,
is first carried
middle
the space, and then to the
crossingof the firsttwo threads. Here, if desired,
over
Beaded
a
with
Wheels.
threads
31.
is
result
out
pretty insertion with-
thread
Insertion
32.
that
loose threads.
Fig.
a
angles,
tri-
place the wheels at
points of intersection
the threads,the working
of
Fig.
by four connecting loops,which
lines.
close parallel
They must never
lie upon
the
form
and
the
around
once
nearest, and
it is
of stitches
rows
To
stitches,
net
with
on
the
threads
further work.
Brussels
of
row
The
of the space, and
D'Alencon.
or
a
of
those
other in the middle
and
in
the
exactlyhalf
series of diamonds
same
very
As
plain Russian
the braid
of the two
as
pleted
com-
with
first,
way between
former row.
The
in the
of
the
over
manner.
Beaded
the
just twice
be in the
to
row
worked
arrival of the working
the
of
edge
the
at
succeeding pairsof
A
is then
stitches
desire them
you
until the second
threads
these two
over
completedat
is
cone
as
work.
The
centre.
weaving thread having arrived at the pointwhere
each other,the point or apex
cross
the threads
is reached,and the weaving
cone
of the opposite
continued
between
either side of the braid
on
far apart
in the centre
two
distance
Coxes.
half wheels
at
more
each
of the thread with
are
formed
orate,
elabor
at
the
by weaving
then drawn
the
the
then
first group
again thrust
the space, and
After
into the braid
thread
the leaves and
at the
the
finished in
then
are
similar
a
knot
Leaf Insertion.
An
thread
insertion with
excellent
where
heavy, rich
a
working thread
The
which
at
space
the firstterminal
opposite end
of
single loop
to
This
leaf of the
the
tion
inser-
braid, and
through
carried
under
not
threads
of the
the
the entire space
of
side
same
This
of
thread
braid
at
manner
a
twisted
in
point
to
brought back
Fig.
36.
The
behind
for
knot,
around
the terminal
pointto
stitches
the leaf.
knot
At the
or
in
up
the
carried,for
a
first leaf,which
with
and
over
drawn
in
of
the
and
one
the
when
across
a
the
completionof
this
them
close together.
twisting of the third
is then completed.
over
The
through the braid
at
its
point.
first and
admit
of
their being fastened,
the
buttonhole
stitches,to the middle
time,
without
is then filled
outlining
This makes
third bars
of each group should be just
loose or
slack enough to
tight
of
of
each
the
Fig.
three
place.
be
ing group.
The
the
bar,
braid
firstbar
succeeding trio
placed close to
of the preced-
last bar
37
tion.
16
drawing
out
should
leaf,the thread
passed again
the left leaf,and
nearly
overcast
by
threads
is carried around
and
bars,two twisted
tonhole
joinedby fine,tight but-
bar
rib,
mid-
ing
close succession of darn-
under
ful
use-
which
the three
The
illustration
second
with
ease
worked, and the thread
are
incomplete,are
worked
stitches,
thrust
a
the
until
and
charming
most
insertions,and
branches, Fig. 34.
is then
thread
is then
needle
is shown
as
insertion with
The
from
threads, and
all the
buttonhole
the
one
long threads.
two
or
Insertion.
Leap
to
of
is filled.
parallelbars
is then
thread
The
side.
is
the
the middle,
the left
on
each
proceeds in this way
work
for the third bar carried
exactlyoppositethe point
of attachment
leaf is then
are
it is made
increases its popularity. It is equally
appropriatefor straightor curved spaces. Two
right
space, and
the
caught into the
the
two
edge
to the
point of
completed
Cluster Insertion.
thrust
The
braid.
is then carried
middle
the
needle is
at the
of the
the darning stitch,
as
The
The
the
to
open
that is to form
base
The
above.
tonhole
but-
a
working
half times around
a
each time
the
is at
with
The
trio of leaves.
twisted,
un-
than
more
of
and
the knot
This
trio of leaves
the startingpoint. It is then carried
braid
leaf.
is
side leaves
midrib
of the midrib
of the next
filled with
a
pair of
the
first two.
the
passedone
threads
side leaves.
back,
the left side of the space, and attached
at that point by having the needle
to
this
thread is then carried
of the space, thrust
is then
rightside
manner.
tied to
were
as
passedthrough
of the
the end
to
two
middle
is desired.
effect
is attached
is to be worked.
to the
the
leaves in darning stitch is
and
made
is
leaf is then
the
on
the leaf
other,and
This
outlines for the second
The
of times to make
intersection of the leaflets.
the
on
the leaf
darned, after which
cling
midrib,cir-
one
heavy
foundation
two
difficultto darn.
more
the
on
so
around
makes
side and
one
on
somewhat
two
effect not
an
passingall
This
omitted.
be
threads
the but-
When
desired,the thread
may
be carried
may
under
sufficient number
a
rosette
or
at. the
tied together with
knot, the working
the knot
is
left side of
side,and
one
on
side of the leaf.
other
is
needle
The
threads
foundation
pletes
com-
the second pair of leaflets begun.
over
alternately
wheel
This
results.
of leaflets.
the leaflets are
tonhole
a
which
knot
tightened in
the thread
through, and
buttonhole
Network
Stitches.
SingleNet Stitch.
in the
all of
"INGLE
net stitch,
called Brussels point under
is the foundation
(Point de Bruxelles),
Double
of many of the net stitches,
and consists
of
of buttonhole
rows
loosely.The beautyof
and regularity
of
should
the
all be of the same
stitches must
fall in
stitches.
length,and
The
ness
even-
the
toward
working
The
even
the lower
the lower
this
and
left,
from
right. The
stitch is at
the upper
be taken
care
at
loopsbetween
a
littlemore
the
ends
; that
and,
closely,
instead
the ends
A
shall
its
Doi
edge,
carrying
to position
thread
Fig.
Net
Single
38.
next
Net
ULE
rules
Stitch.
Stitch.
narrowing that
and
stitch
apply
evenness,
stitches
two
This
true.
all
as
other
taking
two
the
firm and
work
well
as
stitch,while
is
singlenet stitch,
the
as
given for the singlenet
are
this
to
The
stitches.
as
perfect,
stitches,and trial
placingof the thread
to
as
to
same
widening,
regularity,
long
of
row
first. The
the
the
the
be
tightlyup
drawn
tance
in regulatingthe dis-
for
other, the
so
littlecare
along
der
or-
thus
second stitch must
to
in
made
keep them
each
near
parts of whole
spaces.
are
close together. In
great
row
drawn
buttonhole
one
rows.
placethe stitches that the fractional spaces
be true
of
stitch,two
left
and
of each
is,they are
to
of the
stitches
the buttonhole
less rounded
somewhat
are
in
chief difficulty
loops form diamond-shaped
spaces,
must
same
that here the
the buttonhole
lines,forming parallel
diagonal lines both from the upper right-handcorner
toward
also called Point de Sorrento,
stitch,
is made
in
Fig. 39, and the two stitch,
is the singlenet stitch,
as
manner
except
net
in
shown
loops
Stitch.
Net
Double
stitches worked
this stitch liesin the
pattern books of the sixteenth century are
the Reticella type, and cannot
be bought
designationof real Point.
as
easilymade
keeping the
more
aid in
of the most
is one
net
twice
isfactory
sat-
of the net stitches.
the effect,
will
lead to great profisoon
ciency
Three Stitch.
respect. Every loop should,in the
and all
The three stitch is also called Point de Sorrento,
followingrow, receive a buttonhole stitch,
ends
and is identical with the two stitch,
except that
widening and narrowing must be done at the
to
note
in this
of the
the
The
rows.
loops of
the
be
stitches must
size.
same
kept even,
When
this
widening and narrowing attends
the
worker
should
attempt
never
of
so
as
many
itself. The
to
retain the
stitches,and
there is
for when
room
row
an
keeping them
their
with
the work
Both
much
and will be found
very useful stitch,
desirable for large spaces.
Point proper, which
Venice originated
been
worked
1600,but
middle
it
there
came
in
isolated instances
prominentlyforward
of the seventeenth
century.
be
to
intervening
accommodate
it
stitches
These
varied
the
to
the next
be combined
may
case
and
in different
first
a
row
Fig.
40.
Three
Stitch.
of
singlenet stitch,and then a row of three stitch.
of singlenet stitch may
be followed
rows
have
Three
before
towards
placed in
be
working
row.
In this
just long enough
stitches that
the four
especially
may
used instead of
a
A good effect
ways.
nating
is produced by alter-
close in appearance.
for filling
in, this is a
more
for background and
be used.
loop should
when
regular size. This stitch may be made
large open loops,giving a very open, lacy
be made
quently
or the loops may
small,and conseeffect,
at
a
stitches may
are
are
solid effect.
heavier,more
stillcloser effect is desired,four buttonhole
results in
This
two.
If
same
throughout
must
regulate the
accommodate
only just
of stitches in every
The
irregularspace.
space
number
number
to
stitches
three close buttonhole
and
is done,
by
three
of the two
rows
variation and
the
Designs given
form
17
many
combination
stitch.
of
In fact it is the
these stitches that
of the intricate lace stitches.
Buttonholed Net
Where
Stitch.
network
a
showing
desired,buttonholed
of Brussels
row
loops.
number
of
the next.
buttonhole
The
of wide
row
placed
buttonhole
the
stitches
second.
is like the
row
stitches.
a
"
Each
stitch is
the groups
of
of
finished
the
worked.
out
be taken
the
work
to
and
stitch,
of the vertical.
top
of
should
row
pull these rows
or
long pointed
the
covers
is built.
buttonholed
first
row
stitch is shown
net
of
this
stitch
in
is formed
Fig.
them
for another
second
group
then
and
stitch),
of three stitches
far
from
make
"
space
groups
Buttonholed
a
Venise, this
stitch worked
being covered
to
rather
the
Net
ning
begin-
and
at
filled with
a
shell
buttonhole
the first row,
In
placingthe
under
rightangleswith
threads of the butstitch to be
ered.
cov-
size of the shell
The
Four
groups
row
the
and
upon
Fig.
43.
the
of
Point
A
if the first stitch is
a
of
row
stitch being
loop drawn
up
row
single net
to
curved
quite tightly
looser.
as
drawn.
are
more
placedbetween
so
Venise.
de
tightlythey
the others made
consists
buttonhole
and
row
how
shells being completed, the third
This
Stitch.
ber
num-
stitches
stitches is the usual number.
drawn,
nearly
close
the
side
effect is obtained
of three stitches.
are
it.
upon
the
which
loop of
next
shell worked
is thrust
needle
of
length to the
occupied by the
second
upon
stitches of the shell,
the
first to
two
loop
shell being finished,a
tween
be-
in
long loops
42.
another
the long loop between worked, and
equal
Fig.
of
buttonhole
be far enough from
stitch
other
of the
end
This
depends upon
sufficiently
the
the
In
the
tonhole
close
three
stitch is placed in the
and
both
by
working three buttonhole stitches rather
than room
together (with just a little more
a
width
tightlydrawn
which are worked side by side
buttonhole stitches,
close stitches at the middle of
extend to the extreme
point and each above its predecessoruntil the last one
As buttonhole stitch is made
oppositeend.
readilyfrom the left to the right,the rows
of close stitches may be worked
in that direction,
and the open rows
from right to left. This is
accomplished by beginning the work at the upper
right-handcorner.
The
de
buttonhole
This stitch should
accommodate
more
42.
Petit Point
another
top of the buttonhole
of the
Another
in the
by
side of
the
equal to the
first loop is pilaceda
the
as
sideways.
in this way
In an oblong
is carried down
distance
Into
stitch is tied
Net
Buttonholed
to
one
the other,and
or
space, the group
the
not
the
Stitch.
draw
side
stitch.
across
thread
The
the braid
filled. Care
space
should
rows
side
stitch,is very popular,and suitable either for
edgings or for the fillingin of spaces. For the
of "shells"
former
is worked around
a singlerow
the edge of the completed lace. For
fillingin
Beginning at
spaces, the work is done in rows.
of the space to be filled,
the right-hand corner
a
of even, rather loose buttonhole stitches is
row
of close buttonhole
vertical
vertical
called shell,seed,or
Point de Venise, often
stitch
first
stitches should
form
stitches form
end of the space filled.
to
sufficient to
buttonhole
The
row.
When
end
lines from
A
is like the
row
the groups
one
little loop between
stitches
second
fourth
third
Brussels net
in the
of close buttonhole
rows
with wide, regular
loops is worked a regular
Point de Venise Stitches.
of these
completelyfillthe loop from
to
is excellent.
the
is worked
net
Into each
heavy
stitch
net
effect is
precedingpattern,but, like it,
the
of stitches than
a
The
row
of
is worked.
one
stitches,
each
fit like
a
shell,
saucer
of buttonhole
the shell above it. This gives a rather
stitches, around
close effect,and is decidedly
singlebuttonhole stitch is placedin each of
a
pretty. Where
the groups
of three
between
the two loops formed
result is desired,
more
the loops may
be
open
stitches of the previous row.
is
made
The third row
larger. In this case the loops upon which
is like the second.
the shells are
like the first,
and the fourth row
made
must
also be made
as
larger,
all the loopsthroughout must
The result is a more
be of the same
open, fanciful arrangement
size.
anil
a
18
In
widening,very great care
the loops larger,
be taken not to
must
stint the
or
number
and
shells,
the opposite upper
of
give
so
right corner
the
is
latter part of the work
reached
thread
loose
straggly,
a
ance,
appearvery different from
the first part.
Another
Point
de
shown
in
is
e n
down
a
Fig. 44.
is
e
In
this the
is
than
use
of net
the
and
stitch,and
Point
varied
as
well
and
in Fig. 43.
upon
On
loop is made, and a
loop has the
loop a shell is worked.
second
the third
in this way
be used in
the
putting in the
to avoid
row
skippinga
placedclose upon
This
row
above.
each
side
shells.
is finished.
row
each
ensures
of the
When
beauty of
perfectregularity.
which
three
or
A
shells
this stitch
siae
which
stitches,
Straight.The
work
de
Venise
each
other
the side of
stitches may
row
is
of
two
of stitches used.
two-two
stitches and
The
three-one is made
of
one
side stitch,while
one
side
The
stitch consists of two
net
stitches is
called
be distinguished
by callingthem
side stitch. The
one
net
posed
com-
side stitches.
three net
the
stitches
stitch is
two
net
ing
accordtwo-one
stitches and
stitch and
one-three
three
Point
de
Venise.
must
Petit Point de Venise.
be
across
rows
This
be worked
stitch may
pactly
openly or as comdesired.
The first method
gives an
as
the
lacy effect,while
open
of
of
one
Point
the space
upon its
are
placingof
de
upper
left
Venise
is
first made,
and
placed.
stitch is worked
This
The
loops
the
sufficiently
fill the loop until it is almost
secures
the
upper
left
in
19
or
first one.
drawn
a
buttonhole
over
four
is begun at
a
stitch
second
or
shows
a
corner,
stitch beneath
the three
second
solid in appearance,
little space
so
is there between
the stitches. Beginning at the
depends
net
the
stitch almost
loose buttonhole
four side stitches
of the
Point
the number
the
stitch must
in two
stitch may
be worked
ways.
between the singlenet stitches are made
loose to admit
and
Alternating
pattern shows
pleasing arrangement
by working
stitches is made
thread is carried down
the working of the second
Point de Venise
side of every shell of the
stitch upon
a buttonhole
of
The
from
to
shell worked
single stitches between
filled. The
These
made
care
it is desired to have all the
begun.
shell omitted.
Great
method
the first row, and in this way carrying
space. This gives a corded effect to
the
loops.
The
In
This
stitches of the third
stitch.
finished the
paralleldiagonal lines
A
net
the
of Brussels
stitches are
a
A
loopof
the braid,and
worked
shell.
When
right.
by omitting
other
net
as
row
the
each
made
as
is like the first,except
row
right to left.
same
the thread,
direction,
completion of the firstrow, is carried to the
left side by thrusting the needle
once
through
de
stitch,Pig. 45, is
second
side stitches of every alternate row
to
and the intervening
point to the left,
to point
rows
it across
rows
alternating
it.
The
at the
varietywith
Venise
Venisk.
de
side stitches lie in the
much
so
Point
the
the
causes
to
stitches.
Venise.
de
rows
find it less
we
favored
every
Point
left
is very
it is
reason
more
the
fourth
open,
in less time
second
of the
that it proceeds from
in this way, the
more
45.
equal to
firstrow.
upon
the shells of
Still another
Fig.
itsedge for
space
stitches of
singlenet
is worked
fact that
is the
the
of
causes
heavy,sumptuous
Perhaps
slowlyworked
row
the
Venise.
de
slant toward
to
rows
beautiful.
the
shell
a
This
row.
the right. Worked
a
often in
Point
row
the shells of the second
slant toward
more
to
the width
stitches is omitted, and
result
tened
fas-
Pig. 46.
Fig. 44.
every loop of each
the first and third
while
the
is
braid and carried
variation of
V
when
corner, and
make
ways
sidearound
This
tightly,and
is
so
the first stitch
place.
A
second
FlG-
loose
47'
PETIT
PolNT
DE
Venise-
buttonhole stitch is
worked
and
continued
is then
by
the
to
and
two
net
of
the
edge
a
the upper
to be
gpace
To
The
forming
is
in
the needle
net
Fig.
place,
in the
49.
Point
loop at
drawn
lines.
The
is then
of the
in
of
the
in such
second
that in working from
row
they
space
and
with
to
placedin position
continued
to
the
end
two
side
of this stitch
stitches beneath
to
or by working three
stitches,
side
stitch.
stitches
will
Other
formed
variations
two
stitches with
of
suggest themselves
these
to
Point.
Spanish
Open
placedunder
again
the thumb
is beneath
The
it.
it
both
holds down
is
to
on
proper
the
completion of
repeatedto
is reversed
in.
the
needle
is
This
the
before.
and
the
of the row,
the end
the second
stitch.
when
the
of stitches
row
accomplished by forming the
proceeding
working the stitch is
left side of the thumb,
This
method
of
illustrated in Fig. 51.
by placing clearly
guard the
net
nearly
This
loop
direction of
thrust at
drawn
as
are
51.
place through the
the nearer
thread of the loop,
braid,over
upper
and under the farther thread.
The thumb
is kept
has been
the loop until the working thread
on
put
the stitches is reversed.
Variations
that
a
is then
work
is like the first,
except
rightto left the
Fig.
to
way
sides of the loop which
braid
distance from
the
thread
carried
the rightof the thumb, and
the
tight
sufficiently
side stitch is then
The
row.
is
are
stitches lie in straight,
parallel
beneath them, and the work
as
as
more
made
Venise.
of
the thread
the braid
The
Two
stitches
a
to
rows
carried down
and
placed
in
occupy,
the
at the
of the
is
convenientlypractical.
the firstpair equal
connecting loop
thumb
upon
closely
up
the buttonhole
edge
make
of
method
the
drawn
at
the
thread.
near
then
de
of
working
left hand
stitches,and
knot.
Point
the
by
thread is fastened
of the space
corner
coarseness
The
Venise.
de
the left of the
net
50.
thread
The
which varies
distance,or the width of the stitch,
in length according to the degree of fineness or
of
two
Fig.
the stitch.
left
upper
is thrust
of the stitch is the result of the
the edge of the left-hand braid for the required
accomplishthis,
stitch
long effect
twist given the
extra
are
after the second
effect.
satisfactory
a
Open SpanishPoint.
the
stitches.
net
a
filledj
upper
the base
of
rectangular
horizontal parallel
lines connected at right
to obtain
third buttonhole
across
scallopedor looped appearance
of the
corner
stitch set sideways
the two
of the
a
together by
bound
Instead
group of very
a
the other lace stitches.
the foregoingstitches,
they produce
effect of
by
togetheralong
stitches set close
These
braid.
VeniseT*
de
Spanish point stitches form
distinctive difference from
angles by the vertical twisted stitches. Their
union of the double
and, besides
appearance is very open and effective,
net stitch,
or Point
stitches for the design
making very good filling-in
de
Sorrento,and
of the pattern,they give excellent results when
the
side
stitch. used to fillin
backgrounds. As in all the filling
The thread is fastened
the lines must
be perfectly
and regeven
stitches,
ular
at
Point
This
stitch is formed
left
Fig. 48.
is
row
is finished.
Venise
de
second
"
The
equal
the first.
as
d'Espagne SpanishPoint Stitches.
Point
thread
distance
a
The
way
this is
The
row.
stitch.
same
until the space
prettyPoint
A
stitch,and
the
the braid for
in the
is continued
"
side
of
of the
width
then worked
"
a
end
carried down
the
to
tied
the
net
SpanishPoint.
one
useful
The
lace
first
the first row
maker.
of
20
of this stitch is worked
row
of the preceding one.
the
row
the
working
just as is
At the
thread
is
pletion
comcar-
ried
back
left
taken
through
of the group
passing
once
Point.
several
or
the third stitch of the
before by thrusting
to the left side
of
it through the loops of the last
the
first
row
back
is carried
thread
space.
of the space
is continued
This
above.
row
The
the
across
as
row.
is begun by placingthe
succeeding row
stitch to the right of the first stitch of the
Each
drawing
the
up
tight.
stitch
Only one
be
can
successfully
at a time, as
puttingthe
loops and then drawing
the needle
by
up
needle
Spanish
other
the
by
thread
52.
followingloop,and the third or last stitch
is placedon the long loopjust beyond
the
through each loop
and
Fig.
of
needle
space
the
=ttj =c
to
side
first
result
the
and
preceding row,
diagonal lines
extending from
stitches
of
is
series
a
of
in
of three,
groups
left corner
of the
the
upper
space toward the lower right corner.
consists of a group of six
Another combination
Spanishpoint stitches set close together,followed
thread is very apt to prdl the stitches out
slant
them
instead of
place, and so make
maintaining the desired vertical position.
When
the working thread
has reached the left
the
of
by
space wide
Another
a
enough for four stitches.
Fig. 54.
side of the space, it is carried down
the edge of
braid and the second row
of loop stitches
and
followed
by
See
of six stitches is worked
group
another
the
space
size of
the
former
worked.
This
the
one.
is
tinued
con-
until
Spanish Point.
A
the
pretty variation of this stitch is formed
very
See Fig. 53.
by placingthe stitches in groups.
Three
worked
at
Spanish point stitches are
close
in the
regular, somewhat
intervals,as
stitch.
former
Space enough for two stitches
is omitted,and the first stitch of the next group
of three stitches is placed just where
the sixth
have
would
stitch
been
stitches belonging to the
worked
fourth
had
These
three
thread
Fig.
back
continued
the
luaid.
The
is then
thrust
the
53.
Poiht.
longer loop
When
stitches.
clear
across
braid
and
necessary
The
in the
row
that
the
the
needle
distance
second
two
smaller
and
twice
of the second
loops
stitches
into
row
The
second
these
in
are
under
the
open
followed
the
of six stitches above.
arrangement of the
by
middle
This
is
the
21
the
loop is omitted
row
row
consists of
completion of
This
and
another
of
row
consists
of
each of the first four loops
is continued
consists
each
back to the left
second
The
placedin
the stitches of the
between
third
stitch is placed in the
At
space.
space.
stitches
worked.
second stitches of
Spanish stitches
first
The
vals
placed closelytogetherat regular inter-
side of the
of the groups of stitches is then
firststitch of the first group is placed
above.
worked
are
the working thread is overcast
four
row
the first and
group
in Fig. 55.
across
the
by overcasting stitches the
along the edge of the braid.
loopbetween
stitch is
to
Another
separates the' groups of
thread has been
brought
is entered
A
The third row
the end of the space.
is like the firstand the fourth is like the second.
continued
once
is shown
it
stitches
trio of stitches worked
another
through
space,
carried
begun. The
the
Spanish
space.
loop followingthe second stitch of
long loop, and
or
space
through each of the
Fig.
other
Three
the
into
left side of the
in the
in the
regular way
stitches above.
the
thread
entered
is then
following loops,and results in a trio of stitches
directly under the middle of the group of six
across
working
Point.
The
of six stitches of the row
above.
the first group
This
is followed by a stitch in each of the two
are
and
space
Spanish
54.
the
to
worked
of
groups
stitches
is
carried
fifth spaces
and
opposite
reached.
omitted.
been
at
side
the
not
braid
the
One
precedingrow.
group
across
groups
of four stitches
the space.
of three
The
stitches
placed in
the
the
between
loops
stitches of the second
of
the
between
the
fifth
the
of
consists
and forms
row
sixth
of
row
a
diamond
row
design
of
points.
the fifth
the
may
length of the Spanish point stitches.
of the braid,at the end of the
Spanish point stitches are wrorked,
entering the same
point in
the
space,
four
the
the
angle.
tri-
then
the first,
until
of
the
on
a
the ninth
space
space
spaces may
are
be
and
side
be filledwith
Spanish
these
stitches
of
row
continued
Fig.
length of the space, and may
until the oppositeedge of the
is
reached,
space
the returning
when
stitches to the
adjoinIn
of
stitches
when
56.
Point
Spanish
be worked
as
parts
to
first
are
ings
of the
shown
enable
by
working thread around
in the illustration.
the worker
A
Spanish point
third
and
is
again
through the
thread
The
overcast
SpanishNet Stitches.
The
row
at
Spanish
net
stitches form
beautiful
many
practical
the
Where
of the
a
is
working
of close
the
the stitch,
as
of
22
58. Spanish
Net.
s
.
after
row
shown
Beginning
left
space,
Spanish net
shapes.
k
Spanishnet
as
upper
of the
or
close effect
be obtained
row
Fig. 58.
little practicewill
w
the
and
desired, good
by
stitches
t
e
n
very
results may
of the twist-
to adapt this stitch to spaces
groupingsof
various arrangements and
Fig.
different
four
of
is attached
the work proceeds,
as
stitch,
by overcasting stitches to the already finished
Where
the space is wider, longer stitches
rows.
increasingthe number
left side.
the
the second
row.
the braid and
each
formed
with
connected
at
the side of the braid the
placed between
space, the pattern is turned around, and the last
from the edge of the second braid,
worked
row
and
braid
before,and
Insertion.
narrow
thread
the
stitches to the left side of the space, and the work
until the space is filled.
so continued
width,
one
are
fastened
stitches remains
of
to
only
the
between
loop
the
carried down
stitches of the
the
spaces
irregular
each
over
once
Insertion.
Shell
distance
same
of
row
ing braid.
case
Fig.
57.
It is then
tach
thread is used to at-
the last
the
connected
and,
Spanish point stitches,
twice
over
or
once
finally,
along the
worked
so
after
Row
if the
over
with the braid at the right
Spanish Point Insertion.
narrow
wide)
straight thread
so
ner
cor-
the left side.
(or twice
be
small
Long,
the
from
it is on
once
be reached
would
row
and
row,
rightside
exactly the
cast
working thread is over-
The
be
would
This
the edge
to
distance
following
row
stitches in the next
the
as
of two
row
attached
same
like the first.
point stitches.
is
thread
The
braid.
of the braid at the
begun. A long,narrow
be made
by reversing the
the beginningof the second
accomplishthis
To
increased to three
and worked
point
of
repetition
a
of single stitches.
row
continued
is
be worked
would
stitches
by overcasting
carried
the left edge of the braid,a distance
pointsis
new
order of the stitches at
row
an
is then
corner
the middle
Into
the
of
It
of the space,
oval-shapedspace, in the
left
Point.
Spanish
of
and
equalto
row
of the fourth
two
The
case
point.
stitches down
one
stitch between
is fastened
or, in the
upper
precedingrow,
and
55.
of
of three
groups
the upper
at
thread
The
Spanish point stitches.
of
composed
stitches placed
two
beautiful of all the insertions is
of the most
One
sists
con-
row
of groups
Fig.
Shell Insertion.
of four
groups
fourth
The
row.
a
in
at
corner
row
of
stitches is
worked, with just space
second
consists of groups
row
stitches worked
of five
long loop
each
over
Spanish
along the edge of the braid for the
net
The
bar.
or
thread
is
again overcast
left
the
to
before,and
as
three
the three of the former
beneath
long loop
between
stitches
not
are
each
the
gun.
be-
but
stitches,
row
is
"PrAaifeiijagi"
1^^
=
is
worked
the
of five stitches of the second
the
the thread
is overcast
Spanish
64.
A variation
After
row.
Net
Stitch.
alternately in each group
When
finished, loopsbetween
left to right,
and rightto left.
this network
presents
a
broken
check
thread
"carried
is fastened
in the
and
corner
Venetian
Point
then
by overcastingstitches along the edge of
the braid about
stitch is then
eighth of
an
quarter of
a
placed in the
inch from
the
an
inch below.
A
other
two
stitches set
together.
Sorrento.
of the
worked
at
from
a n
c e
cobwebby,misty effect that
The
thread
first group
their
to
width.
these
Fig. 63.
Spanish
Net
Stitch.
net
fall in
to
below
These
a
long loop
reaches
most
always
are
is fastened
the
openlythey presenta
is decidedly beautiful.
at
the left-hand
corner
and
filled,
of
dis-
the
across
equal
Between
Fig.
the
net
65.
Line
leave medium-sized
other,
Stitch.
space
regular
at
own
stitches
row
a
single
stitches is worked
the
of
a
They
tances
dis-
from
each
and
f
enough apart
loopsbetween, as is shown
is allowed
the
very little
reached, the thread is carried down
illustration. When
the
end
of the
row
r
a
to
in
is
the side of the
the level of the thread at its starting-point.braid,until it is on a line with the lower edge of
loose loopsand groups of three net stitches
the loops. It is then carried across
the space in a
continued
are
that
tian
Vene-
of the space to be
groups
thread
The
"
similar stitches without
worked
ond
sec-
a
the
on
and
prettiest
of stitches used.
straightline. When
net
Stitch.
Line
"
one
stitches is then
t
stitches
puttingthem
of three
group
Fig.64,and
Point de Sorrento Stitch.
or
de
stitches form
close
A
f
o
the buttonhole stitches of the former
less transparent than
one-
This is followed
by
in
buttonhole
onlytwo
of this row, and
effective groups
net
braid about
upper
comer.
w
exactly
row.
appearance,
"of oblongs and littlesquares, that is very effective.
In the Spanish Net
stitch illustrated in Fig.
63 the
r o
three above.
of this stitch is shown
is obtained by working
space, unless it is preferredto work
from
brings the
e w
beneath the other
tween
loops be-
the left side of
to
each
stitch.
stitches
Fig.
row
the two
of
n
the
groups
is thrust
threads
This
over
the
between
buttonhole
stitches
of
groups
needle
first
and
net
"each
the
third
of
composed
pairsof Spanish
Net.
three
former
row,
Spanish
These
loops between
the
This
02.
leavingthe
side,and
like the
Fig.
worked
are
row,
group.
placed in
distance
same
stitches
buttonhole
The
thread
from
the
across
is then
the
width
carried to
it is at
the
the
of
same
the
space.
distance
oppositeside.
straightline,and
passed through
braid at the left side.
the thread
Care must
the
edge
of the
be taken to have
tight enough to admit of no sagging,
tightenough to draw the braid one particle
from its place,and each successive line must
be
thread drawn quitetight in order to form a straight exactlyparallelwith its predecessors.
line across
the space. The thread is then carried
The second row
of loops is then worked, and in
corner
as
In
three close
every long loop of the first row
buttonhole stitches are worked, and the intervening
24
but
not
stitch the needle is thrust through the loop
and back of the parallel
thread,so that it is
every
above
always held
with the
and forms
stitch,
A
of
the
loops of
the
in
the
network, and
The
result is
work
in the next
this
series of open
is very odd.
a
that
close
loops
and
less
solid,unthe loops
spaces
These
made
are
ficiently
suf-
space
for the
of close buttonhole
three
stitches.
back to the
carried
of buttonhole
The
following six
are
worked,
the
next
The
k
e
rich
d.
the
spaces
the
row
Fig.
be darned
is left
in each
worked
are
and
just between
spaces of the upper
sixth
follows. The
is
row
a
very
the
a
Venetian
Double
row.
One
or
of the most
Stitch.
Cobweb
beautiful and
popularof
lace stitches is the double Venetian.
in the
the
as
in
all the
This is made
single
s
each
c
h
loop,
used.
two
stitches
other
keeping the
or
spots
Venetian
of
the
work.
stitch, buttonholed
aids
is left
iraraB
also
producing
with the net stitches
sufficient room
of
an
solid effect.
compact
of working
69.
Venetian
Stitch,
frequentlyin
Venetian lace,where it is
fillingfor leaves,scrolls,and various
ively
effectparts of the design to be thrown out most
by the open background of Raleigh bars,or
the even
regularnet ground.
seen
in
two
most
as
a
Spideror Wheel
aid
67.
Cobweb
for large
This is a very rich and beautiful filling
onal
spaces. Beginning at the upper left corner, a diagline is laid across
the space at an angle of
in
thread
Stitch.
Stitch.
firmlyin place,and
make
a
that has a very
very regular,substantial filling,
the
The loop between
fine lace-like appearance.
stitches is left loose and held in placewith a pin
shown
the
regular intervals,
richness
stitch is worked
This
used
of
Fig.
as
at
of
The
are
each
a
other fancy stitches may also be used.
very solid,cloth-like effect is desired,
Fig.
hole
button-
t it
in
this stitch is
except
a
the
almost
netian,
singleVe-
that, instead
worked
greatlyto
stitch
method
way
same
rows
succeeding
The straight
tliread
a
two
over
plain,
very effective and
fine linen floss,
or
thread,pretty tufts
together. Only
placingof
net
repetitionthe
row.
With
close
for the
plete
com-
made
so
When
the Venetian
below
Another
row.
as
following
In the
row.
Background.
trefoils in bullion
and
rings,
Stitch.
Venetian
66.
of stitches
space
of the second
add
When
in the former
the open
the two
may
Stars and
open
omitted
row
in appearance.
looselytwisted
they
number
same
were
other
reached,
are
ways, and
background.
without
When
Stitch.
a
varietyof
omissions.
any
Venetian
space has been filled with the
close Venetian stitch,
it may be embellished
is
row
68.
Venetian
Figureson
After
next
o r
next
worked
Darned
of
four omitted.
four
w
Fig.
row
Four
and
The
omitted.
are
the next
large
ample
to allow
is then
second
a
it is begun.
over
and
placed,
stitches are
four
side,and
opposite
stitches
these
thread
Fig. 68.
is decidedly
placed at regularintervals over
open spaces may
be so
the entire network, or may
spaced as to
form a design. In Fig. 66 the first row
is a series
The
in
the
way
effect
be
stitches.
with three buttonhole
shown
in
Worked
row
of stitches in the
number
close net
the
twist of the net
part of the body of the lace.
a
same
formed.
so
the
effect is produced by missing some
very novel
working
loop in
This stitch may
also be made
stitches in each loop, as
degrees.
forty-five
but without
line,so that the
in the illustration.
25
The
twisting,to
two
thread
is then
returned,
nal
diago-
the first end
of the
threads form
a
double line
lyingclose together but
distance
is laid
At
crossing.
not
the
lected
se-
second line parallelwith the first
a
pointis
variation of Brussels
Another
made
by
the space, and the thread as before
to its beginning. This is repeated until
arranging the stitches in pointsor triangles. In
consists of Brussels point
Fig. 72, the first row
parallel stitches in an even, regular row just far enough
across
returned
the space
is filled with
of double
rows
equal distances apart.
the upper right corner,
Beginning near
lines at
line is laid
the
across
degrees,which
forty-five
stitches,
to
one
each
in
placed
of the
following.
passed three
times
or
around
loops
two
This
of
arrangement
the threads of the
two
in t
an
omitted
is
continued
e r s e c
t i o ns,
tied.
not
are
working
stitches and
loop
to
of
end
the
ways
al-
must
the
row.
under
pass
Stitch.
are
is
th read
Wheel
stitches
the startingplace,
This
or
two
row
loop)are omitted,and one net stitch
two
loops. Two more
omitted
and
net
followed by two
thread,
its return
which
Spider
the second
In
row.
in each of the next
worked
the first series.
four
70.
stitches (or one
the
easilyaccommodate
other to
stitches of the next
a
The
on
each
apart from
diagonal
first lines at an angle of
makes
it at right angles
with
Fig.
Point de Bruxelles.
72.
Point
third
the
In
Fig.
the double threads
Bruxelles.
de
one
row
stitch
net
of the completed is
placedbetween each group of two net stitches
lines and
the single lines. of the second row.
over
should be worked
parallel
This row
When
the wheel is sufficiently
large,the thread is justloose enough to allow the long loops between
passed to the next intersection (which in case of the single net stitches to fall in very slightly
the first row
is the braid). A second thread is
is worked by placing
curved lines. The fourth row
thrown
the space parallel
with the first,
and
across
each of the long loops of
three net stitches on
series of
upon
wheels
its return
This
made
are
is continued
each
at
until the space
tion.
intersec-
the fourth
is filled.
second
A
very pretty arrangement of Brussels point
in Fig. 71.
A row
stitches is shown
of net stitches
is worked
The
in
pairs
the
loop,and
two
that is,two
row,
net
then the omission of
net
more
of single net
stitches.
The
stitches that
of the second
row
by
same
a
of net
row
in the
as
way
in each
one
stitches,
followed
by
one
loop,
next
form
triangle.
Larger triangles(see Fig. 73)
space.
stitches are
two
is the first
stitches in pairs placed in the
Point de Bruxelles (Brussels
Point).
across
This
row.
and is followed
series of triangles,
is the
row
the
are
row
the
points of
in the
worked
of stitches
placed nearly but
same
way, except that the number
not
gether.the trianglesis increased,and
quite close toconsequentlymore
A
space
rows
greater than
slightly
that
occupied by
pairs
these
71.
Point
second
the pairsof net
of the first row.
by placingtwo
by
consists of
row
placedbetween
groups
the
row.
ures.
fig-
of
first
The
net
The
group.
single net stitch
stitches forming the
a
third
row
The
row
is
same
ous
continu-
the
of
single
stitches in every loopformed
the singlenet stitches of the
fourth
row
r o w
is formed
stitches
shown
the distance between
second
plete
com-
Bruxelles.
de
each
The
quired
re-
to
tween
stitches is left beFig.
are
in
is like the second.
Fig.
26
73.
Point
de
Bruxelles.
smaller
net
as
in
is
the
tri-
four stitches
the left of the group
worked
angles.
In the second
and
three
loop omitted. In the third row
are
placedin the three loops of the preceding
one
stitches
row,
and
row
the work
so
the trianglesare
pointsof
are
is continued
those
fifth
the
of
in the
above.
row
in the seventh
of the groups
row
The placing
justbeneath
completes this
row
of
group
quadrilaterals.
till the
formed.
Stitch.
"Pea"
Point de
Bruxelles,
the loops being longer,they must
stitch,
of all arrangements of the
One of the prettiest
be kept tight or straightenough to prevent the
Brussels net stitches is the one commonly known
work from becoming too full for the space it occupies,
because
of the open pea-shaped
of five stitches that begin
and so the group
as the pea
stitch,
of the grouping of
the
method
of trianglesmay
the
formed
fill
each series or row
by
just
spaces
long loop prepared for them between the single the stitches. This stitch is excellent for the filling
in with networks
of large spaces, and belongs to
stitches of the last row.
to the background
and not
Many very pleasingresults may be obtained by the design stitches,
In this
stitches.
grouping in various ways of
A row
across
of Brussels net stitches is worked
In Fig.74 the first row
sists
conof a series of singlenet stitches set at regular the upper edge of the space to be filled. They
at even
distances apart,
is the same
should be placedregularly
distances apart. The
second row
them
to placethe
and with room
until the middle
enough between
loop is reached,when three net
the
arranging
Brussels net
and
stitches.
stitches instead of
one
worked.
are
In the second
single stitches of the next row.
in
is
net
stitch
single
placed the last loop
The
then
are
end
first
tinued
con-
loops,which
Two
row.
include
of
the
In the
row.
third
worked
t it
Two
net
h
c
is
es
placed in
the
74.
POINT
in the second
of three
group
stitch is
placed in
next
whole
the
half
below
the
those of the second
quadrilateral
design.
or
In the fifth row
the
row
fourth
net
figuresare
stitches is
loop precedingthe
another
placedin the third whole
to
of close
row
the close net
of
fifth
be
begun,so
placed in the
placedin
of the
row
the firstwhole
loop at
The
is reached.
requiringcare
stitches
worked
are
a
two
the
so
continued
is
lest
net
placed
next
loops, and
Stitch.
row
is like the third.
third
mistake
on
be
the long
of
Greek
three is
Greek
Net
net
spaces, and
long loop must
stitch is excellent for
is often used
the
is necessary.
27
the
perfectionwith
regularityin the
at
appearance
in large
filling
spidersand
background of
instead of
in of the
twisted bars for the filling
lace patterns. As
the
be
Stitch.
in the third row,
right and
The
the curved
the large openingsnearlyround.
necessary to make
are
as
the
actly
ex-
loop followingthe close
stitches are,
net
are
is like
stitches
previousrow.
stitches
row
Three
made.
These two groups
ends of the two
the upper
In the next
quadrilateralfiguresto be worked.
stitches of the
end
is the
row
close stitches of
group
then
more
loop of the previousrow, and a singlenet stitch is
placedbetween the two stitches between the long
completes loops. The fourth row is like the second,and the
row
and
row,
"
Pea
loopsare
two
work
of
group
Bruxelles,
de
loose to allow
sufficiently
two
before,and
"
In
row.
diamond-shaped pattern
of three
the first group
third whole
The
Point
loops.
two
missed, and
in
either side adjoining
until the
loop at
brings the three
the first. This
the
row.
second
a
loop following,
three stitches is worked.
the
right of the
A singlenet
of three in the second
the group
the
loop at
Bruxelles.
DE
is
of
more
stitches
first whole
Fir..
stitch
in each
the next
of
three
tonhole
but-
three
net
one
a
row
group
a
are
stitches,
missed, and then
the
to
s
row
of the
stitches
net
beauty of this stitch lies in
which
it is
made, absolute
length and spacingof the stitches
The
thread is fastened at the upper
left
of
of the
corner
down
the
the
braid
distance
twice
of
be
to
space
carried
filled and
quired diamond.
side
each
nearly
At
side
net
the thread
stitch,
below
of
the
corner,
is
needle
into
edge,
of
the
the
braid, and
thread
The
Fig.
To
distance from
the
make
lowing
folceding
preone
the knot used in this
in a circular loop just
pointof the proposed stitch.
by passing the thread in a
is laid
formed
is left loose
Stitch.
curve
of the loop,
stitch worked.
over
the
Greek
76.
single Spanish
a
a
by
each
equilateral,
the right,extending close to the
and
braid,
passingaround toward the left
upper
and over
the beginning of the loop. The needle is
then thrust through the braid, under
the upper
right
thrust
be
be
toward
curve
the
the
loop is
triangles formed
the
the length of one-half,
or
the braid at the
This
distance
same
from
of
the
Spanish
a
equal
the loop.
to
one
the length
stitch.
should
stitch
a
As
loops should
of
row
net
Net
slack enough
or
lower
curve, and drawn
fall
to
length up into a tight
This
of the Spanish net stitches. These single knot.
to two
stitch,repeated
stitches are worked
the
at regulardistances across
vals
at regularinterentire length of the space, and are
lifted up or
in
rather long
a
shortened
by
lengthen
the
lengthof
one
Each
and
loops
keep
the net
loop forms
twice
in
in order
between
to
loops of exactly
stitches the
side of the hexagon under
the
tion.
construc-
completed, the thread is
and
braid by a singlestitch,
each
over
drawing the loop out
The thread
Fig.
to the braid
out
loop,evenly,and withposition, its edge to
of its proper
in which
the threads
Point.
the
diamond-shaped mesh
is
When
desired, the
a
a
the rightside,and
point exactly
loops. It is then
lower
straight
the thread
to form
worker
The
thread
without
of the
the braid
the
a
distance from
requiredlength
stitch in the
the
corner
upper
the
of
braid
just
the
is
use
upper
the
form
of Turkish
the
the
across
loop,and
drawn
up
point is usuallymade
the
They
across
space.
be
may
if
made,
sired.
de-
The
pass
in this
thread
of the
illustration is
in the
fastened
the
of
edge
equal
of
of the
re-
A
Fig.
2S
78.
Point
Turque.
in
upper
right
braid
loops. The first
placed a distance
half the width
carried
the straightparallellines thrown
rienced
expe-
is fastened
left corner, and is carried down
upper
from
it. The
find this
will doubtless
pin unnecessary.
to
proper
the loop around
place,and
down
Point.
Another
a
curve
be
omitted.
crossing the
space
may
there is danger of not
When
getting the loops
exactlythe same length,it is wise to thrust a pin
the
carried
line with
a
thread
through the pattern at
in
tightknot.
Turkish
point is the
knotted.
are
Turque.
the straightthread taking the place of the
first,
braid,and the needle at each stitch being
upper
passed under the loop above, under the straight
of the laid loop,
thread, under the upper curve
into
distinctive feature of Turkish
The
way
Turkish
Point
line parallelto the upper braid and
next
attached to it. The
is exactlylike the
row
in
space
over
"
at
of the
middle
previous row.
Turque
77.
is then attached
the
Point
first
the
row.
opposite side of the space is reached.
The thread is then overcast
along the edge of the
braid the required distance,and a second row
of
like the first row, is
single Spanish net stitches,
made.
The fourth row, like the second, consists
of two
overcasting stitches in each loop of the
until
length,
same
forms
sides of the hexagon.
two
is
carried through the
is overcast
loop equal
thrust of the needle
a
first row
the
When
decided
or
corner
the
space.
short dis-
tance
from
the
corner
a
plainbuttonhole
braid.
Close
stitch is worked
to
carried
to
the end of the
down
begun.
begun at the
This
is each time
at
Turkish
The
row.
to
be
pen
or
space
Point de Filet.
the second
until
and
each
knot
completed.
pointde
method
thread
by
a
de Filet is an
easy, speedy,and, at the
backtime, very beautiful stitch used for ground
or
groundwork, instead of Brussels net.
"*u Mn
igKViHHHrw
m
jAifwa^gj
Point
same
reallyan
diagonally across
the
thread is fastened
space
at the
upper
left
It is then
network.
carried
across
Fig.
the
upper
braid
at
Point
Fir.. 79.
Filet.
de
row
it will form
The
thread
upper
a
braid
the
braid
stitch.
at
de
Filet.
without
the
that
rosettes
loop
Fasten
space, and
loopby
corner
The
braid
the
for
the distance
the
thread
Carry
proposed
farther braid,and
of
just
s o
an
same
distance
as
from
left
thread
edge
ish
Turk-
for
before from
one
of diagonal
rows
of Turkish
one-fourth
an
Bruges
Fir,. Rl.
a
-
of
the
corner.
Overcast
the
along the
of
the
braid
distance
sixteenth
inch.
of'
of
About
Stitch.
three-sixteenths of
are
stitch,
until the space is filled. The beauty of
knots
inch.
an
inch
back
thread is then attached to the
the left the
of
the space to the back or
stitch
fasten it with a buttonhole
square.
a
one-fourth
nearer
across
of the next
of
of the
corner
it along the edge of the
overcast
length of the
means
give it its elaborate
the thread at the front left
along the edge of the
distance
as
before,and is
the adjoiningfastening. These
continued
Point
carried
same
loops,secured by
netting
a
good
background for other
makes
appearance.
be just
corner
This
closely
very
The Bruges lace stitch is well adapted for the
of large spaces, and may
be used with or
filling
must
the knots
sides of the
two
is then
fastened into the
net
placeby
80.
The
square,
held in
that when
or
stitches.
corner.
twice
this
stitch
Bruges Stitch.
from
the
under
o
pointequally
distant
is then
simulates
and
of the
and
space,
fastened
t
or
stitch.
"piie needle
method
the left
corner
to
net
tightly.
the edge of the braid a
space, and brought down
side of the desired squares
distance equal to one
of the
single Brussels
ing
knot, over the workthread, under
it, and drawn
up
of the
corner
tying the
buttonhole
The
filled.
be
to
of
is secured
passed
imitation of netting. It is worked
It is
many
buttonhole
Stitch.
Groundwork
netting,and
another
it
loops above
the
Point de Filet. Net
in
pattern
be worked.
filet. The
stitch shows
This
ceeding
suc-
in
used
the
on
finished network
the
pencil. Upon
side,the plainbuttonhole stitch
point stitch.
the left of the Turkish
off
filled is checked
stitches
various
the
at
them
The work may be
loops are being made.
stilleasier,
if,before the stitch is begun, the
made
beautiful lace stitches,
may
left
is
the second
pattern
passedunder
the thread
the
when
with
is then
thread
be stuck into the
itate this, pins may
and
the right places,
is like the firstexcept that,being
is continued
row
a
the side of the space, and
row
This
this
in the
point stitch
is worked.
At the requireddistance from this pair
of stitches a second
pair is placed,with the loop
between the two pairslong or slack. This is repeated
upper
net
an
The vertical
perfectaccuracy.
and the horizontal lines
lines must
be parallel
must
be parallel.This necessitates the making of
the same
all the loops of exactly
length. To facil-
stitch
this stitch lies in its
29
inch from
space.
placetwo
and
the back braid work
over
Over
hole
a
singlebuttonthe
long thread thrown across
the length of this buttonhole stitch
other
the
buttonhole
extending toward
stitches
the front end
close together
of the space.
This
is exactlyas the
made, only two
are
used.
This
forms
parallelthreads
shells " in Point
"
the
in
of four
instead
"
knots
"
that
place.
One-half
the front braid work
another
buttonhole
the
long thread
fill its
two
buttonhole
of half
and
reached.
Overcast
of the braid
edge
the
across
thread.
space in
Fasten
nearer
half
the
space
over
it with
a
along
it is decided
When
the
is
thread
working
and
passingit over
between
make
not
tonhole stitches,
in the
a
series of knots
new
apart. Continue
with
this until the entire space is filled
parallellines
and at
even
The
from
apart, and
from
rightto left
now
ready for the
work
is
parallellines,which
exactlyhalf
must
of the space
whose
knots
second
lines extend
the
the front
the
spiderfrom
an
inch
of knots.
along the edge
stitch
from
Fasten
of the braid.
of the two
knots of the first lines.
work
the
two
thread
long
Work
over
both
another
stitches
proper
sets
be
obtained
A
form
the
but omitting the
spider,
Point
of lines
thread
the intersection
ground network
The
spaces.
thread
is
(which is the
with
knots.
is
for
excellent
fastened
the
at
large
upper
and
corner,
carried
along the
braid
upper
the
required distances
for
knot
check
one
square
It
carried
space
is then
across
to
side
same
the other three
the
and
into
Fig.
alreadyfinished )
82.
ing the
30
Point
d'Angleterke.
working
thread
or
of the network.
of
knots surrounding it,and is also half-way between
the first and second parallellines
outer
stitch
the centre
left
tight. This
together. At the
as
intersection
d'Angleterre.
This
the
the threads
each
variation of this
by surrounding
form
over
fourth
and
thrust
adorns
rosette
a
the space.
these stitches
place on the long
distance from
to
are
stitch and
line./Draw
knot holds the two
near
the point of intersection.
that
the buttonhole
the finished
stitches that
the third
through the
the long thread, and the
is then
the
are
buttonhole stitch
exactlyat
the two
as
work
a
of
far
just as
lines
a
tonhole
but-
a
repeatedin
needle
Over this buttonhole stitch
close buttonhole
Work
with
Work
this long thread
over
the intersection
the knot.
this thread
it one-sixteenth
overcast
then
this
knot just between
point of intersection is worked, and
then the knot that ties the next crossingthreads
is made
and the next rosette begun. This is continued
may
stitch and
the
too
beneath
until
the space wdl intersect
the parallel
lines almost half-way between the
rows
but-
left-hand threads two
aud
the next
until
firsttwo
at
In
is completed. The
rosette
and
across
is
This
angles. The
throughout
buttonhole
the space to
this right angle
is begun
next
worked.
series of
intersect the first series
from
thread carried
work
rosette
by the
shown
as
spider,
Fig. 81. This weaving
of making the knots
in
left of the long thread.
right to left instead of from
front to back.
This places the working of the
second lines in the same
positionfor working as
the first lines. Carry the working thread
were
by overcastingstitches along the edge of the braids
a
a
three times,by
or
surrounding threads
worked over
are
tight,
needle is
last threads of the spider. The
thrust through the spiderfrom
beneath the
at
the space.
across
the
the
under
being completed, the
that form
two
woven
the needle
has
this knot the
Around
the
left hand
and
angle, between
buttonhole stitches are
back threads,and two more
form
way between the knots of the first
the work around
that the finished
so
Turn
rows.
front to back
distances
parallelrows
inch
exactlyone-half
of
manner
positionof
until
above
exactlyas
intersectingthreads
making
the edge of the braid.
If the thread is kept
this point of attachment
will be exactly
parallel,
half an inch from
the first thread.
Again carry
the thread one-sixteenth
of an inch to the right of
the thread justfastened. At spaces exactlyin line,
from rightto left,
with the knots of the firstrow,
to
each intersection
as
(seeFig. 81).
worked
been
is
ties the
which
the knot
an
the rosettes at the
have
to
worked
work
The
is reached.
stitch
singlebuttonhole
is very effectivewhen
is desired.
intersections,
they are
carry it
the first
inch,and
an
network
open
necessary to fill the
results in the open
are
This
completed.
are
until this
in this way
Continue
the others which
which
Bruges lace stitch,
front braid is
or
with
parallel
line
a
line and
nearer
stitch
the working thread
for
are
length as before with
Repeat this at intervals
stitches.
inch until the
an
hold
inch
another knot.
work
de Venise
stitches
the
site
oppotered
en-
the
braid,alwayskeepperfectlyparallel to
If
preferred, these connecting threads
each
buttonholed
ring the
thread
is
be fastened at their pointof meeting by a singlebuttonhole
and then cut.
This
stitch. The three upper
threads are
then
independent of the others.
makes
each little ring
covered
with
a
fan and
woven
the thread
threads
fan
and
The
then covered
are
the
thread
again
with
carried
is then
continued
fans
thread
parallel
This is continued
crosses
is the
When
the
spidersor wheels.
pleted,
com-
the thread
until all the
is fastened at the
and
Rosette Stitch.
with
for the half
as
work
net-
is
pair
left
upper
Net
same
centre.
worked.
are
for this filling
stitch of littleGreek
woven
till the location for the next
of fans is reached.
double
The network
the
to
overcastingof the horizontal
Crosses.
The lower
second
a
tened
securelyfas-
carried
Greek
back through the weaving to the centre.
three
may
corner
overcast
to
the first horizontal
For
beautiful
thisexceedingly
used
canvas,
The
thread
for
work
net
tapestrywork,
the Penelope
is imitated.
parallelline.
This
thread
the
at
first meeting of
right
upper
of
"corner
the
to
overcast
fastened
is
is
four
the
U"rl
=
=
ILssi
^irkxU
\
curing
threads,se-
=
Fig.
86.
Gkeek
Crosses.
the vertical
space and
cast
over-
thread
braid
distance
to
one
left upper
a
second
fan
Fig.
line
a
the
It is then
overcast
is again carried
the former
to
parallel
braid
the
the
and
space,
the
right
of
this
at
side
in
a
then overcast
the
is continued
regular intervals
the middle
over
third
fan
last fan
two
threads.
the
thread
of threads to be
line
thus made
along
the
entire
with
these
From
at
is overcast
A
woven.
the
thread
upper
is then
It
edge of the braid
by passing under
threads.
Upon
The
thicker
the
this
Point de
The
in
for Point
either
of
two
de
more
is
squares
the
woven
and
foundation
several
times
around
raised the buttonholingupon
At
the
it,the
be prepared
In
the first way
horizontal par a 1 1 e 1
lines
across
even
The
carried
are
the
space at
distances apart.
thread
attached
to
is then
the left
braid at the left end
of the upper
is then
closely buttonholed.
of circlingthreads
effective will be the result.
Reprise may
ways.
the lower
the rings are
group
of fans is
cross
Reprise.
network
pair of horizontal
stitch along the
returned to the lower edge
pretty network
maining
re-
of this
every intersection of the vertical and
of the network.
one
the upj^er and over
This alternates the weaving.
thread
small
and
end
diagonallines
of each
overcast
and
the
covers
the next
to
Greek
thread
is then
The
overcast
along the front
edge of the braid a distance equal to one side of
the largersquares and woven
under the lower and
over
lower left
middle
the outer
pairsof parallelthreads.
lines.
and
the
covers
to
A
larger square.
is passed across
until
The
The needle
fan to the centre,and
right front threads,and the fourth
stitch along its edge.
one, and
length
is covered
space
braid, attached
pair of parallelthreads
second
threads.
Stitch.
carried to the left braid
one
to
Rosette
with
parallelto the upper
braid,and
the
Net
85.
through this
woven
required
the network.
It
threads,forming a littlefan.
is then passed
of
largersquare of
in
the centre
a
equal
side
the
overcasting.From
of four threads,
of this group
or
the
eight radii,
thread is passed over
and under the middle and
the
of
edge
right
in the
the
along
made.
the
the
one
The
Fig.
87.
Point
de
Reprise.
left
then
passed under the
again entered into the
more
32
half
that
from
and
completionof
braid
upper
-
upper
upper
and
line,
entered
into
at
tance
dis-
the upper
It
is
corner.
parallelline and
braid at
a
distance
equal
the distance between
to
the upper
thread
the upper braid. This is continued across
makes
space and
equilateralenclosures. At
and
the
rightand lower sides. This completesthe network
of equilateral
triangles.
the
These trianglesare then covered with cones
of
triangles darning.The thread is attached to the point or
the thread is at the right end of the upper line. apex of the triangleto be covered,and the thread
It is then passed under the second line and back to
is passed over
and under
the foundation threads
the first,
passingunder both the first thread and
forming the sides of the triangleuntil the space
the thread looped around
it at that point. It is
is filled. It is then passed under the threads at
again passed under the second thread and back to
the corner
angle)
(which form the apex of another trithe first,
of the
and carried down the side of the adjoining
forming the equilateraltriangles
the first row
completionof
second
This
row.
of enclosed
is continued
by
row
until
row
the entire space is laid off in a canvas-like network.
The second method of preparingthis network is
simpler. The parallelhorizontal
lines
laid
are
to
triangle
Another
as
same
distance apart
are
then
is attached
the first lines,across
the
buttonhole
woven
are
and
over
the horizontal lines
under
of the
space from the upper and right sides to the left
lower sides,
crossingthe horizontal lines at an
and
angle of sixtydegrees. A
lines is then
the
angle from the
same
way and at
and left sides to the
upper
same
darningof
this triangle
thread of the triangle. Then
the left side.
passes
triangleafter
until the
consists
coveringthe triangles
of buttonhole stitches. The
thread
the apex of the triangle. Two
stitches are
worked
the
over
over
thread
the
use
until the
close
to
foundation
worked
series of diagonal
second
in the
woven
The
of
method
before. A series of diagonalparallel
lines the
as
its apex.
accomplished and the work continued
remainingtrianglesare covered.
is
from
every
In this way
one
side to
second
right
two
are
ing
the work-
the other of
buttonhole
stitch
triangleis filled.
Combination and Miscellaneous Stitches.
taken between
Combination Stitches.
The
IGURE
88
illustrates several
In
A
the
the
braid.
fasten the
stitch
thread
the
Fasten
Make
thread
the upper
at
along the edge of the braid
stitches into the
buttonhole
the
edge. The
work
and
fourth
In the third
fifth
row
of
:
Fasten
as
seven.
the thread to the braid at
left corner.
Carry the thread
upper
to rightside of the space, leavingthe thread
so
are
rows
is like the second.
For Fig.88 B
form
the
the stitch
row
the
to
one
seven
stitches
two
is taken in the fourth stitch of the group
The
is like the third.
and
Attach
loop.
overcast
third and
Brussels net stitches.
row
each group of the four close stitches.
is Brussels net stitches,
and
the
right corner
the space
Overcast
to the left side.
loop across
a
sixth
row
folows:
as
thread to the braid again and
along
marked
leaf-shapedspace
stitch is worked
of the
stitches
applied to different shaped spaces.
fifth
a
loop.
Overcast
one
across
loose
stitch along
the edge of the braid and stretch the thread back
from right to left,keeping it perfectly
straight.
Overcast
work
over
open
two
stitches down
four buttonhole
the
straightthread.
network
where
on
braid, and
the
stitches into the
The
fourth
the buttonhole
loop and
sow
stitches
is
an
are
Bullion
33
Stitch
Used
for
Background.
Point
de Valenciennes.
Point
de
is another
stitch (seeFig.88 C ). The
form
mond
of dia-
thread is fastened
wide
down
Near, but
braid.
A
and
worked.
is
placed in
followed
by
of the
each
a
next
the two
below
are
the next
This
third
space. The
buttonhole
placedbelow
worked
Two
stitches.
tween fourth
beThe
row
is suitable
is used for wide
of the pattern.
the groups.
the
placed
of two
stitches close to the
One
above.
of two
the
stitch is
two
close to
two
stitches.
of
consists
the second
of
fifth
and
third.
row
fourth
groups
of
the
This
row
eight
the groups
row
is like
the sixth
stitches forms
of the
The
stitches placedbelow
five
placed
them, and
loop between
above.
the
ond,
sec-
is like the
arrangement
of
broad, flattened
diamonds, and is suitable for
fillinglarge spaces. Another
variation of this stitch is shown
in
Fig. 89.
COHBlSiATl
34
is worked
six
or
second
from
close
more
the
and
right
hole
button-
loop,completely
buttonhole
stitches
loops,and
six
a
from
the braid
row
with
row
is like the
of five
first stitch of the group
third
the
are
second
close buttonhole
is like the
and the
first,
second.
stitch illustrated
one,
and
by
The
to
the long
on
close
long loop is covered
tend
ex-
five stitches
groups
of
carried
each of the small
on
by placingtwo close
formed
buttonhole
The
fillingit.
loops of each
the groups
These
stitches.
of
followed
left,and consists
consists of
stitches
above, and
on
are
second
The
worked
equallydistant
thread is then
The
the space.
in the
across
are
This is followed by
stitch
stitches worked
stitches
loop
first,
distance
stitches
of the space.
singlebuttonhole
of five stitches of the
group
row
are
in
eight
above, and
the
longloop between
across
row
middle
in the two
row
Into
of eight,and
the
on
continued
is
below.
five
group
stitches
the two
the
stitch
of the
one-third
close buttonhole
Two
rows
long loops.
buttonhole
one
braid
consist of alternate
may
the
is fastened in the upper left corner,
stitch is worked into the upper
thread
The
to
close buttonhole
groups of eight two
stitches are placed
Five more
worked.
the
two
loops of
is
of
short and
fastened.
third
This
stitches at either side to
end
the
beyond
stitches
row.
single close buttonhole
four loops of the group
in the middle
worked
first
result is five close buttonhole
stitches. The
leaves
and
the second
the right of the
be used for
D may
narrow
spaces, the width
of the
middle
again carried down the edge of
right,and a buttonhole stitch is
the loop between
stitches from
stitches
Fig.88
in
spaces by increasingor decreasing
large
length of the long loops,or, in filling
or
and
the space.
across
the
eight
into the upper
of eight stitches is
row
is continued
This
braid at the
the
second
of
row
a
buttonhole
three
equal to
a
thread
The
corner
stitches is worked
space
is omitted
to, the
close
not
close buttonhole
stitches shown
The
carried
of the space and
the upper left corner
the braid at the left side of the space, a distance
than
buttonhole
stitch.
one
more
slightly
at
of Brussels Net.
Combination
Valenciennes
in
Fig. 88 E, like the
for broad
spaces
or
narrow
ceding
pre-
spaces,
by repeatingthe stripes*
The
thread is fastened
and carried down
"A short distance from
worked
into
the
the
worked.
These
corner
a
braid.
upper
stitches is omitted,and
the distance
the upper
at
left corner
the side of the braid
second
a
stitches should
the space.
across
a
stitch.
one
better twist to the threads.
single stitch is
Space for two
single stitch is
at the
carried
at
one-third
occupy
the end of the
At
pointfrom whence
same
as
the first one
to
the base.
thread
the
Space for two stitches
second singlebuttonhole
The
thread
the threads
is then
of the
space.
omitted, and
stitch is worked.
into the braid
stitch.
A
loopbetween
Six
the long
or
worked
in
to the
the
and the
first,
The
stitches
more
loop, and
third
the
in
Fig. 88
de Venise and is described
the base.
thread
thread
page
19.
base
Fans.
and
make
a
in pairs,or
singly,
be built like
They
Greek
may
make
To
trio of fans
a
the
at
oppositeside
the
It is then
of
the
a
a
the
or
of
its
tion
sec-
fan.
to
and
braid
back
overcast
the base
own
of
casting
over-
Combination
from
the worker.
that the
from
base
two
middle
threads.
the
point
the
to
base of
the
is
fan
one
are
then
woven.
base
and
these
bases
are
located
desired
of
positions
the outer
ends
close
whole
of the
of
Fans
with
Other
Stitches.
To
do
pattern is so held
point in the space
of overcastingensures
this the
is the farthest
the worker.
This way
base,are
put
in
and
position
overcast.
under
These
darning or
weaving stitch throughout their entire length.
All weaving must
begin at the narrowest
pointin
The thread may
be attached
the design to be woven.
to the braid at the completion of each ray
be carried back through the interior of the
or may
are
the design, always
the
rays are selected at equaldistances from each other,
and three threads for each ray, divergingfrom its
passedthrough
the
under
weaving is completed the needle
Rays.
own
The
is
thread
are
and
together,so that each,though a part of the
is completein itself.
central effect,
division
the
The
edge at the sides of the fan.
the two
begin the pointing,
tinued
dropped and the weaving is con-
another
showy effect (see
rays form
the converging part
Fig. 88).The base is naturally
of
of the space, and the outer edge of the group
is
the
side
the
of
Each
has
curve.
larger
ray
rays
of
the middle
right side of the space
The weaving of the
a
long thread and at
Woven
to
justhalf
width
filledwith four
fan may be woven
first. The
and under the four threads
over
even
from
Woven
point
distance
the left of the
centre
to the base.
selected for
carried to
space
with
begun
This and the third
the thread
illustrated,
point of the braid
the base of the fans.
on
as
overcast
through its centre, or between the threads of the
weaving, so as to be invisible. The thread is now
in place to begin the weaving of the second
fan.
crosses.
is fastened
the
passed
like
an
over
When
in
hour-glassesor
They may have few or many
have
threads.
foundation
graduated
They may
pointsor they may have a flat end.
trios.
way.
middle
threads
very effective filling(see
be made
Fig. 88). They may
into the
left of the left
it is desired to
outer
fans
be
The
The
same
is carried
When
Woven
is overcast
in a weaving or darning stitch and must
alternately
be drawn
just tight enough to keep the twisted
threads in place,to preserve a sharp pointat the
is the Petit Point
F
on
the base.
at
fans should
is like the
row
the
alreadyin placeis now
filled in the
is
placed upon
single stitch is then
The
to
alreadyin placeand
meeting
is like the second.
fourth
stitch used
into
stitches
then
are
A
left short
braid.
buttonhole
sufficient distance
a
This
is entered
third thread
similar threads,all overcast, equallydistant and
one
stitch is worked
the left.
to
was
The
opposite rightthread is then placed in the
The remaining distance at the left of
way.
same
fastened
carried down
the two
loop,fillingit.
attached
is then
the right and
at
singlebuttonhole
the short
above.
a
The
braid
into the braid
itstarted. It is again
the space and entered into the braid
far from the centre to the right
as
across
pointjust
a
second third of the space a singlebuttonhole stitch
is worked, making a long loop extendingacross
middle
the firstthread
When
is brought back to the base it is entered
covered
first ray
35
with
the
and overcast
over
to
and
the base of the next.
Diamond
effect is
more
thread
buttonhole
one
At
the
admit,
to
apart
second
row,
stitch
to
equal
of
space
length is followed
second
.
,
,
tinued
a
and
Fig.
90 and
91,
Sorkento.
Fig.
92,
insertion,
fig.
93,
Figs.
89, Diamond.
Point
,
the
across
con-
de
bullion
Space
filled,great care
being taken to keep the
equal length. The first
to
Knotted
Russian
spaces
between
next
Stitch.
of
them
being completed,the
row
braid
one
and
first
row.
second
first
stitch is
buttonhole
One
to
row.
by
placedon
started
decreasingof the diamonds
long loop,close
of the
begins
row
ing
the alternate increas-
fifth
The
of the first
stitch is worked.
three
stitches
between
made
groups
care
working
same
This
of two
the
stitches
the
of
groups
of two
groups
of two
loop
already
are
at
tween
be-
pletes
com-
the first
so
row.
the
row.
below
diamonds
seventh
are
followed
by
of
groups
the
three
a
group
of
stitches of the
is
sixth row, which
stitches below the
precedingrow,
the groups
and
is like the first,
stitches below
row
placed below
by
the group of four of the preceding
to the end of the
is continued
is followed
and
composed
loops between the
All the long loopsthrough-
length as
of the firstrow.
the
be taken to make
this and the group
of the
row,
the
In
above,and
new
stitches
Two
row.
stitches below
three
the left side of this
must
the
on
minishes
begun at the first row, and didiamonds
begun by the singlestitch
the
these
worked
This group
singlestitch
a
row
end of the
to the
and
the singlestitch,
The
first of
by
begun
begins
row
the
singlestitch placed close
Into each of
same
singlestitch of the first row.
the four stitches of the
the three loops between
of the first row, a single buttonhole
next
group
are
the half diamonds
the rightside of the singlestitch
is followed by a second
This
to
which
and
stitches follows,
of four
group
row.
the
row.
stitches of the
is continued
work
stitch.
In
three
consists of groups
first,
singlestitches. Below the group of
the
the edge of the
is carried down
of the
by
This is continued
of two.
last of this group,
be
thread
the
like the
the half diamond
.
are
followed
are
group
of the
row,
the two
groups
single stitches
the next
end
in each
placed one
group
of four stitches is followed
1
92
four
Stitches
four
of
stitches ;
them, and
long loops,close to the other two.
The
These
stitches.
by
of
group
fourth
first and
the
other
An-
stitch worked.
the
placed
at the left of the space, four stitches
three stitches,
are
worked, care as usual being taken to keep the
hole
button-
one
worked,
are
the left of the two
placed between
the next
of four and
1
loops
in the
stitches below
first stitch is
The
stitches
Two
to the
91
Into the
of three
stitches
three
by
stitch is
loopsof
The
is
stitches
three
omitted,and
buttonhole
to
also consists
the long loop close to the right of the two
on
the
equal
space
is continued
row
three stitches.
is followed
stitches below
These four stitches being
completed,a
third
and
two
row
stitches.
two
them.
between
loops
The
row.
of two
second
third
the
of
This
the stitches of the groups
this
the
similar
each
on
of groups
worked.
followinggroup of two.
the long loop close to
on
is
on
one
are
of the
second
stitches
These
the end
and
be just far enough
must
stitches
stitches three buttonhole
of four
following group
between
two
stitches
buttonhole
the distance of
braid
of four
a group
stitches,
worked.
upper
and
each
At
length.
same
a
single stitch of the first row
stitch is worked, both stitches
singlebuttonhole
being kept close together. Into the loops between
of the next
side
The
corner
the
for
necessary
space
left
from
equal to
corner,
the
stitch.
short distance
a
the
in
the side of the
down
brought
no
ciently the
suffi-
keeping the diamonds
close together and in straightrows.
is fastened
be of the
must
out
than
in
and
regularity,
its
is
beauty of this stitch lies in
The
stitch.
diamond
desired,there
rich,showy
appropriate for large spaces
a
stitch
the work
Stitch.
When
diamonds
alternate whole
and
of three.
completes
begun by the first
row.
Point de Sorrento.
Point
to
de
net
the
stitches makes
an
open
network
practicaland
at the upper
is very similar in appearance
of placing
The method
Sorrento
the double
stitch.
it
exceedinglyfirm, and,
beautiful.
left
where
stitch is very
thread is fastened
is desired, this
corner
The
of the space, and at equal
distances two
buttonhole
stitches
first is
together. The
into the edge of the
worked
worked
are
close
plain buttonhole
a
stitch
braid ; the
second
and
is passed
placed close to the first,
through it. To do this,the needle is thrust both
through the braid and betweeu the two threads
the sides of the
that form
loop of
the
end
the
the left side,a distance
at
is
stitch
of the space, a singleSpanish net stitch is worked,
to the edge of the braid
the thread attached
and
to the
the
rightcorner.
stitch
down
equal
corner
the rightside is from
at
is then
thread
The
the
from
distance the thread
carried
edge of the braid, and
the
one
the
on
first
stitch, left long loop three close buttonhole stitches are
stitch.
and is then drawn
worked.
Through the loop between the second
up close in a buttonhole
At the proper distance from
this pair of stitches
and third stitch,
the needle is thrust for about half
buttonhole
a second
stitch is worked
in the edge
its
its length, and the thread is wound
around
Into the loop of this stitch a second
of the braid.
is then
The
thumb
point ten or twelve times.
ibuttonhole stitch is made
as
before,and so the
placedupon the coil of threads, the needle drawn
work
is continued
rows
all
are
the
to
of
The
row.
alike,each pairof buttonhole
the thread
through,and
stitches
being placed on the loop between the two pairsof
stitches above, and each pair of stitches is interlocked.
the coil
assumes
This
a
is followed
stitches
pulled up
three
by
buttonhole
more
long loop at the
the long loop. The
on
closelythat
so
circular shape.
Spanish net stitch is covered exactly
loop. The three close buttonhole
stitches are followed
by the picotin bullion stitch
This
stitch should not be worked
too closely.
close buttonhole
and completed by three more
it is, the more
The more
showy the effect.
open
consists of
stitches. The third row, like the first,
In making buttonhole
stitches from right to left,
stitch placed on the loop in
a single Spanish net
the thread
around
right of
Point de
as
Sorrento.
be thrown
must
for
position
each
leftto right,the thread
and
the
or
carried
stitch,while,when
extra
of
left
into
working
naturally falls
movement
the
the
was
the middle
of the
second
is like the
second.
When
from
into
tion,
posi-
is rather
wide,
is
placingit
stitches will be
obviated.
the
for this
fasten the thread
arrangement
of
and
made,
of the
de Sorrento at the upper right corner
At
and
somewhat
far
distances,
equal
space.
effective
Point
ipart, groups
of two
buttonhole
rather close
together,are
The thread
is then
Draid
each
;ween
irst
row
pairof
group
a
worked.
s
;wo
The
rather
sach
a
across
of three close buttonhol
third
is like the
row
loose buttonhole
of the
stitches
stitches
long loops between
e
stitches
that is,
first,
worked
are
the
The
row.
This
of the
groups
fourth
on
space
the middle
of
buttonhole
knot
tliread
of
The
row
lpper
right corner
he braid
sh net
a
is tied
stitch is
The
and
carried down
distance equal to the
stitch. Into the upper
the
is the
the edge of
traces
is fastened
lengthof
braid,at
at
a
closemust
close
a
single
the middle
Span-
never
37
leaf
filling
not
was
may
produced to
any
be said to the
of the seventeenth
or
tent
extrary.
con-
century
approach to it, but still retains
of plaiting
stitch,which were
and Genoa
Point
in
real
point.
proper became
employed
nearest
the dress lace par
the middle
for
space.
proper
Reticella work
insertion is desired, Fig.
thread
it passes
as
useful
especially
narrow
before 1620, whatever
heavy,showy
somewhat
is curved, care
of the space, and
tightlyon each
end
one
insertion
of the
other long
3ollion Insertion.
)2 is excellent.
space
at
Point Lace
a
the.
of the space.
like the second.
When
of
to
curve
On
loose buttonhole
buttonhole
side
regularlyplace the stitches on the
an
equallygreater distance apart..
in the result. When
the
ensures
regularity
is passed to
the thread
is entirelyfilled,
taken
be
row
be filled
very neat, easily
The space is first
apart, and
the
together. When
to
Riissian stitches made
twisted
plainor
a
insertion.
distances
even
outer
stitch,and the
the loop be-
buttonhole
;hree stitches of the second
8
the space.
the edge of the
worked
of stitches begun.
row
at
stitches,
placed
carried down
length of
the
second
filled with
of
either
on
necessary
fourth
space
greater number
a
Hence, it is always well when beginning
bullion stitch.
work
that the
to so regulate your
a
stitch,
buttonhole
stitches may
be
rows
having most
Knotted Russian Stitch.
of this it is
worked from left to right. Because
Knotted
Russian
stitch is
aest to
The
row.
excellence under
Louis XIV.
Combination
of Brussels
of Brussels
row
The
and a
filled,
Brussels net stitches and just under the stitches
tervals.
regular inis like the second.
The fourth row
of the first row.
then fastened to the edge
network
shows
the
a
When
completed
pattern of
of the space, and overcast
of the braid at the left
its
along
edge
a
equal
distance
Spanish net
stitches.
Into
the
Brussels
stitches
of the
Brussels
loop
the fourth
This
is continued
third
three
to
of the
the Brussels
A
of the three
stitches of the
the
stitches.
net
of
Brussels
net
stitches
left
right
second
The
all.
Brussels
next
of the
loop
next
Brussels
to the end
stitch is
net
the work
above,and
row
of the
The
row.
placedin
so
fourth
The
Spanish
This results in the
tinued
con-
usual,and
is
row
row,
row.
as
second
a
of open
Brussels
into
is worked
net
the
the
along
of the braid
edge
loops of the first
stitch being
one
each
placed in
stitches occurring
net
at
space.
is then
thread
overcast
like the
the singleBrussels net stitches of the second
the
across
the
row
row
regular intervals
second, of singleBrussels net
and trios of Spanish net alternating.The Spanish
net stitches are
placedin the loops below or under
composed
a
Brussels net
stitches is worked
stitch encloses them
net
tened
fas-
upper
and
corner
of open
above,
row
is
the
at
and the second
first and
thread
Brussels
the
is made
(see Fig. 96).
The
Spanish
is placed in the loop at their left.
stitches is
the trio of Spanish net
In this way
the
and the loop between
considered
one
as
stitch,
net
lighterSpanish net
at right angles to
lines
parallel
The
row.
placedat
heavy lines of Brussels net
parallellines from right to
the
similar but less'geometricalnetwork
wholly
stitches.
of open
row
a
"
first stitch is
The
stitches forming
placed. The
Spanish net
end
the
is like the first
row
stitches.
net
one
with
the space, and
single left across
a
the second
Into
are
squares,
open
stitches reaching in
and into
Brussels net stitch,
worked
are
the length of
first row
stitches
Spanish net
loop holds
third
to
is worked.
stitch
net
three
at
the first loop of
the
net
be
to
stitches worked
net
a
is fastened at the
thread
of the space
thread is
The
by
tion
combina-
as
Spanish net stitches,
and
net
in Fig. 94.
rightcorner
upper
is made
pretty network
Another
shown
thread,upon reaching the end of the row, is
again attached to the braid and overcast along its
edge the length of the Spanish net stitch. The
third row consists of the singleSpanishnet stitches
placed on the little loop between the groups of
The
Stitches.
third
loop.
is the
in
The
each
loop of the second
the network, and is more
diagonallines across
gracefuland artistic than if placedin lines under
close
other.
of networks is composed of
of the prettiest
of Spanish net and Brussels net
alternatingrows
fasThe thread is tened
in Fig. 95.
shown
as
stitches,
of single
left corner, and a row
at the upper
row
One
Spanishnet
far
stitches is worked
enough apart
to
admit
at
on
net,
the
loop
Into each
row.
is worked
or
between
Combination
Stitches.
five or
Brussels
close
buttonhole,
There
stitches.
regularintervals
five or six close Brussels net stitches.
them
six
row
should
always
be
the
number
of
same
these stitches in each
When
the
loop,and there should be enough of them worked
together to nearlyfillthe loop. A row of
closely
stitches is next worked, one
net
Brussels
open
Brussels
stitch
the
edge of
opposite
the space
is
reached, the thread
is attached to the braid, and overcast
along its edge
requireddistance. A group of five or six close
stitches is worked
over
net (orbuttonhole)
the Spanishnet stitches. These
each loop between
Brussels
worked
net
and
but
closely,
are
worked.
stitches
there
must
be
evenly and
of close buttonhole
closely
should be enough of them
to fill
with
the Brussels net
next,
stitches.
38
or
fifth row,
stitches of the third
is like the
second,and
the groups
row.
The
the sixth
is like the third.
row
exceedinglydelicate and attractive stitch is
The thread is attached to the
in Fig. 97.
shown
of
the space, and three rows
of
corner
upper right
An
crowd, the loop upon which they
of stitches
Each loop of the first row
not
is filledin this way
being placedon each loop between
the
above,and
row
this
the
single Brus-
sells net
stitch is
followed
by
other
four
is
of
The
third
the group
of two
long loop of the row
The
fourth
This
five
is continued
is like the
row
ond,
sec-
and the fifth is like the third.
This
the
row.
Fig.
row
Combination
90.
Fig. 101 is a very
Stitch.
i-"
like the firstand
Stitch.
Combination
repeated to the
end
the space.
across
the
loop.
next
five close buttonhole
below
close stitches worked.
more
stitch
upon
worked
to
long loop is
a
above.
the singleBrussels
placed
are
carried up
is not
but
stitches,
stitches,swinging on the
Another
long loop is secured, and
stitches within
net
thread
in the first row, and
stitches
of
The
of two
group
secured,as
an-
cluster
above.
row
the next
the fourth
suitable for heavy,
showy stitch,
effects. The
sumptuous
thread is fastened
is like the second.
and
Combination
the
at
ner,
right cor-
upper
a
row
Stitch.
of large loops is
This
from
exceedinglybeautiful
pieceof
a
in Ireland.
the
left
is fastened
at
held by the
thumb,
loop,and
"equalto
at
a
close buttonhole
long loop
stitches
These
The
and
two
stitches
The
is entered
overcast
along
stitches
are
edge
five
distance
equal
worked.
are
somewhat
Fig.
to
loop
These
place by the thumb, and two more
placed on the middle loopsof the five
stitches of the
above.
Two
between
long.
The thread is
Stitch.
Combination
101.
row
more
down
stitch.
one
A
row
tached
at-
to the left
braid
left,
the first long
the
making
loops
second
braid at the
a
Into
stitches
and
corner
length.
same
stitches
net
long loop follows.
into the
its
A
ing
work-
rather far apart.
buttonhole
more
exactlythe
stitches.
close buttonhole
in
third
be of
thread
five
by
sels
single Brus-
long
a
long loop
worked.
are
secured, and
loopsmust
held
of this
made
thread
It is then
by a pin, in
right of the
the
to
half
or
taken
was
The
corner.
secured
or
worked.
buttonhole
two
are
is
upper
distance
side
one
stitch
lace made
of ten
and
ried
car-
close buttonhole
stitches is then worked
upon the first loop,
left
fillingit smoothly but not tightly. The
thumb
is then placed firmlyupon the second loop
to prevent its being pulled out
of shape,and to
bring the stitches close up to the edge of the braid
in order to preserve the scallopedeffect. The first
buttonhole stitch is then placed upon the second
stitches
then
are
loopand drawn up very tightlyto the braid. The
other nine stitches are then worked, and the thumb
placedon the next
long loop,and are
placed upon the third loop,ready to assist in the
This is continued to
followed
shaping of the next curve.
by two
the middle loops the end of the row.
is like the
The third row
on
first,
except that the buttonhole
of the
next
group
of five stitches.
between
This
of
to
Fig.
mo.
Combination
is continued
the end
the
the fifth and
above.
row
stitches are
placed
sixth stitches of each group
The fourth
is like the
row
second.
of the
Stitch.
row,
The
two
thread
close
firstgroup
stitch
of two
more
of
is
again attached
stitches
of two
are
worked
the
to
at
the left of
stitches of the second
Connected
braid, and
the
Connected
finish for the
One
row.
the group
placed upon the loop between
and close to them
at the right two
stitches,
after
is
close stitches
are
five close buttonhole
worked.
stitches
This
under
makes
the
a
two
Needle-made
the
to
stitch.
row
of
a
40
seed
needle-made
edge
lace
is
a
picots make
pretty
pieceof lace,and are made
tached
completed. The thread is at-
of
a
the edge of the braid with
Over
or
Picots.
side
this another
buttonhole
is worked.
stitch,
a
buttonhole
called
stitch,
This is the little
Point
de Yenise
is then
stitch
carried
alreadygiven.
and
over
the
through
The
thread
loop,and
tied
with
b
tonhole
knot
Coxxected
t-
u
side stitch.
is
This
102.
a
second
or
Fig.
is
peated
re-
Picots.
at regular
intervals,
leavingthe loopsbetween of uniform
size,and long enough to fall in gracefulcurves.
Isolated Needle-made
method
Another
isolated
to make
Picots,
of finishing
the edge of lace is
picots. These have open pendent
length of the picot. The thread is then passed
around
this pin from
right to left,and crossed
again to the right,forming an oval loop. It is
then passed across
the loop again,and the needle
behind
thrust
the buttonhole
is
extent
the machineloops,and resemble to some
made
edges. The thread is attached to the braid
with
buttonhole
stitch. A pin is then thrust
a
with
combining lace braids and stitches
lace
methods
various
and
be
may
daintiest of
effects.
In
Fig.
103.
Isolated
the
of this
exactness
net, and
over
Where
braids
used to duce
proand scroll
are
of the
net
must
drawing of
be done
This
has
an
close
overcasting stitches.
always outlines the edge
is also
buttonholed
firmly
edge of purling overcast
Wftirrmr"iWiiffi?(iBW"w"""ii!7S5ffi
smoothly on
of
perfection
the
upon
and
neatness
The
lines
through the
clearlyseen
underneath
be
is to
be fastened
cut
to
away
the net
The
stitches of fine thread.
be
fastened
into
and,
position,
if the net is not to be cut away, these
also be buttonholed to the foundation.
the
lace.
and
by
almost
these the braid is basted.
the
curves
same
attached
of braid
row
the braid is omitted
outer edge. Occasionally
the finest and
former,cords,rings, the purling alone is buttonholed to the net.
part of the work.
close buttonhole
inner
A
plique of the
apthe net
or
The
be
may
make
to
the
carefullyand
the edge of the braid must
with
regular intervals
used.
are
the pattern will be
of
before*
"S
Picots.
the finer laces the regularpoint and
stamped pattern. Much
finished work depends
the
net
a
largerscale.
foliage,bow-knots
and
is basted
net
a
employed
honiton lace braids
The
on
filmylaces. In
heavy showy
flowers
is
Antoinette
Marie
net.
the inner
curves
into
edges must
With
care
positionmay
with the buttonholing. When
this
can
be
done the overcastingis unnecessary.
When
the net
is not
to
be cut
away
the
tonhole
but-
Applique Lace.
or
be obtained by
beautiful effects may
[ANY
and
a
knot,
These
which
the lace is
picots are
repeated at
pattern, upon
still basted, at a point indicating the required along the edge of the braid.
Net
end
made
tied with
the
through
the
stitch and
the
loop over the thread that again crosses
picot,and drawn up in a tight buttonhole knot.
the first picot,a
At the required distance from
into the edge of
stitch is made
second buttonhole
ished
this and the finthe braid,and the thread between
a
straightline
picot is drawn
up to form
with the braid.
The pin is again placed
parallel
in position,
and
the second picot
of the
braid
41
Fio.
104.
Mrthop
of
Applying
Braid
to
Net.
to
to
its
and
This
makes
a
lace.
The
lighterbut
various
less durable
lace stitches
into the design of the braid.
the braid medallions
sometimes
are
sometimes
The
of
needle-made
is
into
flowers
buttonholed
the net.
position
floral
usually a
leaves
pretty leaves
stitches,
bird's-eye
stitches
bird's-eye
These
threads.
the design of the
in
worked
sprays when
dotA third method
of ting
and
lace.
little buttonholed
is to work
ringsat
point
the tiny rings used
or
regularintervals,
of the net.
usuallyfinished
several
lace may
with
be added
in
is heavy.
if the net
the lace is finished it is removed
from
from
under
When
the net to be removed
the pattern, and
rings.
of
selected mesh
a
is to work
way
using
the net
around
and
around
Another
make
and
stitch and
in tent
the meshes
are
the thread
applique
into
various
the
worked
In honiton
worked
darned
are
centres
for
then
buttonholed
are
accordingto the pattern, which
of the
design. The stems
flowers
finish
are
Instead of the lace stitches used in the point medallions and lace stitches is carefullycut away.
applique,a very pretty effect is obtained by filling The edge is also cut close to the buttonholing that
in the spaces with darned net stitches.
holds the lace edge in position.The lace is then
Dots may be sprinkled
the net by weaving
over
pressed under a damp cloth.
How
jO wasli
lace
plenty of
successfully,
and
great
are
instances
followed
success,
the
washing is necessary, take a glass
as
ble.
possibody is as nearlycylindrical
actual
bottle whose
are
but
Lace.
When
time
There
necessary.
where
hurried work
is
care
by
Wash
to
Half
fill this with sand
water, to prevent
tossing the bottle
in the kettle. Very carefully
too violently
it with
and cover
the lace around this bottle,
the
chances
or
boilingfrom
when
water
against it. A Battenberg doilybecame soiled about
in the making, so the maker
wind
rubbed white soap on
A still better
it,thrust it in a basin of hot water, and rubbed it a layer of cheesecloth or muslin.
the
and
lace
between
her
to
until
of
soil
is
baste
all trace
exactly on
smoothly
vigorously
hands,
way
then
wind
around
it
of
She
then
it
into
out
was
a
cheesecloth,
securely
pulled
piece
gone.
shape,placed
the whole with another layer
it between
and cover
two
the bottle,
towels,and rolled it up. When
nearlydry, she ironed it,still between the towels, of the cheesecloth.
cold water, a
Into a granitesaucepan
and, strange to say, that doily showed no bad
put some
results from
small piece of soap, and, if the lace is very dirty,
its rough treatment.
A still more
remarkable instance was
that of a
a
pinch of salt. Into this plunge the lace-wound
are
fine modern
thread
it
it went
the
But
these
work
a
a
for its
cases
are
to
of white
or
lace is to
when
Then
it reached
and
folded,
are
is necessary
allow
to
sheets
or
laid away
in
placed between
white
paper,
a
to
Allow
thoroughly.
dry,then
the cheesecloth.
stained
become
bath of pure
for several hours
gives
basin of
a
the
lace
or
greasy
olive oil,and
or
the
even
a
softness
day
of
it
When
the lace is too large to wind around a
baste it evenlyand securelyto a piece of
bottle,
lines
cheesecloth,with small stitches in parallel
be very greatly
improved. Lace
sheets of blue paper will keep white
to
a
separatefrom
it to remain
This
rinse
After this is
possessedwhen new.
the lace on
wind
the bottle,and
accomplished,
proceedwith the boiling,as alreadydescribed.
texture
powdered magnesia. Then place it between the
for several
a book, and allow it to remain
the magnesia is shaken out, the lace
days. When
placedbetween
longer than when
this treatment
the bottle until it is
placeit in
wear,
two.
on
real lace has
When
from
blue paper, firstsprinklingit well with
found
it and
remove
careful
two
water, and
more
perfectlyclean.
remains
and plunge into
the bottle,
remove
clean,cold
soap.
the lace to remain
tunate,
also unfor-
layit between
water
the
As
boil.
a
replacewith
off,and
Continue
until the boiling water
will
leaves of
will be
and
cold
receive the most
all that
gets dirty,pour
to
come
it
her hands
carelessness in accomplishing
should
water
washerwoman.
experiences.
rare, and
Sometimes
pieceof
at
bottle,and let the
with
accidentallywater
clean,ironed
worse
that
treatment.
clean
and
they lead
as
to the
through
mystery, but
a
white
was
none
handkerchief
familylinen
remain
home
and
the
adventures
forever
This
1000.
with
went
The
point lace handkerchief,made
No.
or
across
box.
the surface
of cheesecloth
42
over
of the lace.
Baste
it,and boil in
a
another
piece
series of waters.
After
the rinsing,
which must
be accomplishedby
pressingand squeezing,but never
by wringing,pin
clean
the cloth upon which the lace is basted smoothly
to a sheet stretched in curtain
frames ; or, if this
is impossible,
to
sheet stretched
a
and pinned over
carpet. Allow the lace to dry,and then
the sheet and
If you
from
wish
the two
the
of starch
amount
it,and, when
of
flat mass
this
Into
cream.
the extra
out
squeeze
until the
the process
Repeat
a
towel and
leave for
To color lace
black
a
coffee to
greenish hue
Machine
if
the
use
a
Lay the lace in
it
some
lace
starch.
make
To
little cold
few
in.
has
a
tea.
To
upon
it
as
as
pliable
iron unstarched
a
pad
new
lace.
lace
placeit rightside
damp
cloth and
press
with
a
thoroughlydry. This is also
newly made lace,and should be
fine lace needle,which
be
ample
and
dry.
has
point
no
ironed.
This
attempted only
to
with
and
tear
and
shape
should
be
is quite a task,and
when
the
worker
has
time and is not liable to be interrupted. A
large wooden drum or hoop of sufficient width is
best,but if this is not to be had, a large circular
Pad
box or a straightboard may
be used.
the
outer
surface
ends
of
Lace
the way
done as
muslin
until the lace
the fingers
of this drum
the board
with
on
muslin
stretched
must, of course,
sides
and
layersof
this with
a
the
white
piece
smoothly.
be damp
when
pinned,
the threads
of the
portion of the length should
picots. Only
a
removed
the
from
both
several
and then the pins will not tear
hot iron until
this cloth is
white
hot,iron until it is
been restored to its originalshape. Then
of white
thicknesses of white flannel. Over this spread carefully
a
pieceof
too
flannel,and, if preferred,cover
down
spread the
the cloth,and,taking the lace in the hands,
should
ironing-boardcovered with several
or
not
warm,
five minutes.
and
out
flannel-covered ironingthe soft,
it place a
pinned out, not
picotsinto place and see that the lace is exactlyin
its originalshape ; iron until dry. Then
pull the
lace along its entire length between
the fingers
from the footingor engrelureto the opposite
edge.
Pass the iron again over
its length. The
pulling
starched
relieves the lace of the stiff,
and
effect,
makes
a
for about
water
splitthe delicate threads,carefully
open
each picot.
Irish guipure and
real point lace
laces may be ironed directly
upon thenand smoothly pullall the
First carefully
surfaces.
squeezing,and drop
never
manipulate with
carefully
drops of
the lace
Over
Remove
a
a
will
sun
it is clean rinse it in several
it to remain
smoothlyupon
table.
roll the lace in
add
Allow
iron with
a
hours.
shade
When
Squeeze this sweetened
thoroughly
starch is well worked
the
a
the lace.
half
dip the lace,and gently
desired,and
cream
cient
suffi-
a
the basin where
daintyheap on a plate. Leave it here till
it is onlydamp, not wet.
Dissolve two lumps of
white sugar in a pint of water, and into this drop
is of the consistency
mass
hand, and spat
with the right until the
it in
Boil half of
the uncooked
amount.
in the left
whiteness.
cheesecloth.
in cold water.
partlycool,stir in
add cold water
and
layersof
lace starched,dissolve
Place
but
clear waters, pressing
a
from
remove
suds.
shine upon it. Change the lather twice a day and
let the rays of the sun
restore
the lace to its original
damp
cloth
within
which
be
it is
rolled. Should the lace,being pinned,become dry,
First pin
dampen it with a wet cloth or sponge.
little white sugar
in which
to the padded supto the
water
added
the footingor engreluredown
port,
this over-cloth is dampened will stiffen the lace,
using plenty of pins placed close together.
its width smoothly over
much
better
than
and is in some
starch.
the
cases
Spread the lace across
Another excellent method
is to dampen a pieceof
by thrusting
support,and pin each picotseparately
the pin through it and
into the flannel support as
new
organdyor other white goods containingstarch
lace
and
iron
till
if
this
cushion.
The
Place
the
it
over
were
a
or
dressing.
pins must be the exact
keep the
dry. This givesa crispnew appearance to the lace size of the picots,as their size must
of starch. Anin their originalshape. Leave the lace until
without making it at all suggestive
other picots
the pins. If
method
of washing lace is to soak it about
it is thoroughlydry and then remove
of white
the lace has a raised design,stamp it on the wrong
fifteen minutes in a bowl of suds made
to
press
the lace is removed
soon
as
soap
and water.
Pour
from
this off and
the
pattern. A
replacewith
side with
a
43
a
lace awl.
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FLA.
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