Casitas 101: How to build your casa without going totally loco
1 Casitas 101: How to build your casa without going totally loco Casa building Plans, pictures and instructions Please feel free to copy these plans for your group. Questions, suggestions? Email us at [email protected] © ULBC CasaBuilders 2004 2 Casitas 101: “How to Build Your Casa without going crazy! Guidelines and Helps for Casabuilders So you want to build a casa with a group of volunteers...great! Our goal with this guide is to make it as simple and as easy as possible. We’ve taken a very basic step-by-step approach to keep the average group from becoming overwhelmed with the task at hand. Most groups that build are just like yours...high on excitment and somewhat lower on construction ability. And that’s perfect. These plans will help you finish your casa in a reasonable amount of time. We recommend that you study these plans before you get there. There’s nothing worse than pulling the plans out of your backpack while everyone else in the group is standing around waiting to go to work! So study and get familiar with the plans and be sure to look at some pictures of houses in process and houses that are finished (available at www.casabuilders.org) A picture is worth a 1000 words. Helpful Spanish Words Hammer; “Martillo (mar-TEE-yo) My name is _______: Me llamo _______ (May-YAH-mo ) Nails: “Clavos” (KLAH-bos) Nice to meet you: “Mucho gusto (moo-choh-goo-stow) Door: “Puerta” (p’ware-tah) I don’t speak spanish: No hablo español. (No AH-blow ) Window: “Ventana” (Bain-tah-nah) What’s your name? : “Como se llama?” (ko-mo-say yah-mah) Help! “Ayu’deme” (ah-you-day-may) Where’s the 1st Aid Kit? Donde’ esta el botiquin (botee-keen) 3 Notes for Site Leaders 4 Four-Day CasaBuilding Plan Here is an outline to help you build a casa over a 4-day period. This is a good pace for newer groups or groups with students that are the builders. Your goal as site-leader is to try and stay several steps ahead of your group. This means that you get people started and move ahead of them as best as you can. Day One: 1. Meet the family you’re building for and pray together with everyone- circle around the slab and dedicate your efforts to the glory of God! 2. Organize your materials and set up a safe jobsite 3. Frame and install walls 1,2,3 and 4 4. Install the loft joists and plywood 5. Paint the exterior plywood and the trim pieces (plywood can be painted after it is installed) Day Two: 1. Frame Roofing System: Ridge, Rafters, Facia and Plywood (don’t install felt paper if it isn’t going to be shingled right away… it will blow away and if it rains, it’s very slippery) 2. Install Rough Electrical : Electrical Boxes, and Wiring 3. Begin Sheetrock Work 4. Install 3x3 windows Day Three: 1. Finish Sheetrock installation 2. Begin Roof Shingle installation 3. Close in the gable-end of the house (the triangular plywood panels on the front and rear walls) 4. Install loft window 5. Trim Installation on exterior 6. Install sheetmetal corners on sheetrock as needed. 7. Mud and tape the sheetrock Day Four: 1. Finish taping and mudding sheetrock 2. Install front door and lockset 3. Touch-up painting on facia, trim and knotholes 4. Electrical trimout (switches, outlets, light fixtures and coverplates) 5. Jobsite cleanup 6. House Dedication Ceremony 5 Casa-building 2-Day Fast-Track Build Plan A crew of 12-20 People with 4-5 experienced casabuilders can build a complete home in 2 days. Here are some guidelines to keep you on track if you choose the 2-day plan. Remember it’s not a race… don’t go nuts trying to “better your time”. Enjoy the whole process! Goals Day One: 1. Meet your family 2. Frame,plywood, and paint exterior walls 3. Paint all trim pieces on 3 sides 4. Install 3x3 windows 5. Frame and plywood loft 6. Frame Roof structure 7. Begin Roof plywood installation 8. Rough electrical installation (boxes, wiring in walls ) 9. Begin Sheetrock in Bedrooms Goals Day Two: 1. Finish Roof plywood if needed 2. Install triangle ply on the top of the 16’ long walls 3. Install loft window 4. Install Exterior Trim 5. Install Roofing Material 6. Electrical Trimout (switches, outlets, light fixtures and coverplates) 7. Install front door and lockset 8. Cleanup on jobsite 9. House Dedication Ceremony Items Every Person Hammer Utility Knife Tape Measure Pencils Gloves Tool Belt Every Site General Constr. Tool bins Generator Circular Saw Chop Saw Sawsall Jig Saw Safety Goggles Electric Drill 7/8" Drill Bit 5/8" Drill Bit Chaulk line&Chaulk Level Construction Stapler Framer's Square 8" Crescent Wrench 3/4 -1" Chisel Med. Crowbar Elec. Power Strip Extension Cords Caulk gun/tubes Ladder Sheetmetal shears Small Sledge Hamr. Cat's Paw Electrical Items Wire Cutters Wire Strippers Screw Drivers` Pliers Wire Nuts Sheet Rock Tools S/Rock Saw S/Rock Square Mud Trays Putty Knives "Potato Masher" 5-gallon bucket Painting Tools Paint Brushes Paint Rollers/covers Cleanup Tools Rags Broom/DustPan Trash bags Safety Items First Aid Kit Bottled Water Sunscreen Raingear assort 1 You're gonna need it! 3-4 Bottles per person/day even in the clouds For Nov-May great for wet paintbrush 3 more is better 3 with ext. handles 2 8" long w/big nasty teeth 1 4' Long 2 or 3 plastic or metal 4 to6 metal works best 1 thinning out mud 1 or 2 for mudding/paint/etc assort Who's Bringing it must fit in van/subs 1 2000 watt or larger 1 At least 1 worm drive 1 1 with metal & wood blades optional 2 1 don't forget chuck key! 2 spade-type is great 2 " 2 1 3 Foot or greater 1 w/3/8" staples for tarpaper 2 (speedsquare) 1 for anchor bolts 1 1 1 20 amp-rating (sugg) 3 25-50 ft. 1 for windows/2-3 tubes silicone 1 folding up to 12' is great 1 Cut s/rockcorners/flash 1 wall, attitude adjustment 2 Don't leave home w/o it! 1 1 2 1 flat, 1 phillips bit 1 assort 20 yellow/ 6 red ? to keep nails/hammer 1 per person 16-20 oz. at least 6 per site 5 per site 15 per site #Req'd Comment CasaBuilder'sTool list To Mexico From 6 7 Getting Your Crew Involved When you first arrive at the building site, your crew is going to be eager to get going. Your job as site leader is to delegate as much of the tasks as soon as you can. Your goal should is to be thinking 3-4 steps ahead of the rest of your group so that you can delegate things before you need them. Here is a list in sequential order of tasks that you can hand out to your crew. A good majority of your crew will be helping you frame the walls and nailing plywood. 1. ORGANIZE THE MATERIALS: (Everyone) When you get to your site, the lumber and materials are usually stacked on the cement floor. You need to clear the floor because that’s where you’ll be laying out and building the walls. This is a good job for everyone..Sort the materials by dimension and also by length… in other words, stack the 2x4 studs in a pile, and the 2x4x20 in a separate pile, be sure to keep the plywood accessible before the sheetrock. 2. LOCATE THE NAILS/HARDWARE: (1Person) Have someone talk to the Mexican family and find out where the nails are and the hardware box. Refer to hardware indentifcation page for specifics. 3. SET UP SHOP: (2-3 People) Put the generator in a safe location from which 3 cords can be run to any spot in the project…typically it is near the chop saw stand… run a cord with the drill set up with a 5/8” bit for drilling the sillplates. Set up a skilsaw on a cord that can reach everywhere on the site. 4. CUT THE STUDS: (2-3 people) Have the cutting crew start cutting 2x4’s to 92 1/4” …you’ll need about 50 of these…check the measurements of the studs…some are precut to this length … if not have them cut the 8’ 2x4’s Save the 20’ and 16’ 2x4 for the top plates and sill plates. 5. LAYOUT THE WALLS AND FRAME: (Layout 1-2, Framing: 8-12 People) The majority of your crew will be helping here…after the plywood is attached and raised, have the painters roll the wall exterior with paint . 6. INSTALL LOFT FLOOR JOISTS AND PLYWOOD DECK: 2x6x16… You’ll need 6 2x6x16’. Have them cut the 2x4x14” support blocks and install them as per loft plan page. There should be 5 sheets of 3/4” thick plywood for the loft floor. This needs to be installed prior to the wall 5 and 6 below it. 7. CUT THE RAFTERS: (2-3 People) As soon as all the studs are cut, have the crew start cutting the rafters… you’ll need 26 total.. these are cut out of 10’ long 2x6….DON’T CUT THE 12’ 2X6 OR THE 16’ 2X6 FOR RAFTERS. You’ll need these for ridge, and facia and the ladder. 8 8. PAINT THE EXTERIOR WALLS: (3-6 People) Once a wall is up, have the paint crew roll them with color. 9. PAINT THE TRIM: (2-4 people) Set up with rollers and paint 3 sides of the trim 1x4. Have them find a place to stand or lay these while they dry…There is a 1-gallon can of trim paint. 10. CUT 4 RAFTERS WITH NOTCHES FOR THE LOOKOUTS. See the rafter cutting details. These rafters are for the front wall and the rear wall of the house…The notches allow for 2x6 to be added to support the “barge rafter at the edge of the eaves. 11. ELECTRICAL BOX AND WIRE INSTALLATION: (3-4 People) This is a job to delegate to some go-getters. Have them locate all the electrical parts and install the outlet boxes as per electrical plans. You can have a secondary crew drill the holes for the wiring through the framing. 12. CUT OUT PLYWOOD FOR WINDOWS AND INSTALL WINDOWS: Drill a pilot hole each corner of the window openings, and then connect the dots with a sawzall! Have 2 or 3 people work together on this. The windows are installed on top of the plywood with 8d nails through the flange… use caulking under the flange if you have it. 13. BUILD RIDGE POSTS AND RIDGE: Have a crew of 2 cut and assemble ridge posts as per plans. Locate 2 of the straightest 2x6x12 for the ridge beam. These can be exactly 12’each. 14. RIDGE/RAFTER/BLOCK/FACIA INSTALLATION: A substantial sized group can be installing rafters and the blocks between them. AFTER the blocks, install the 2x6 facia. 15. ROOF/GABLE PLYWOOD CUTTING: Have a crew of 2 ready to hand out plywood to your roofing crew. Cut as much as you can on the ground. 16. PLYWOOD ROOF DECK INSTALLATION: (A crew of 4-8) Crew should be wearing shoes that aren’t too slippery. Try to attach the deck over the loft first. 17. ROOFING INSTALLATION: (6-8People) Roofing install starts with the felt paper stapled in place…Don’t install this if you aren’t going to install shingles on the same day…Many a roofing crew has come back in the morning expecting to shingle 9 over their previously installed felt paper, only to find the felt paper littering the hillside. If there is any rain or dew on the felt paper, it’s very, very slippery… 18. SHEETROCK INSTALLATION: (6-8People): Don’t start until the wiring is run to the boxes! Sheet rock installation starts with the bedroom ceilings and works down the walls and out to the main room. Tape and mud the sheetrock as soon as the bedrooms are complete with sheetrock and metal corners. 19. SHEETROCK METAL CORNERS: (2-3 People) The thin metal perforated corners can be installed over all “outside” corners to protect the sheetrock. Use sheetmetal snips to cut to proper lengths. This is at the windows, and doorways to the bedrooms. 20. CRIPPLE STUDS/PLYWOOD INSTALL FOR GABLE ENDS OF HOUSE: (2 People) Angle-cut 2x4 for backing the plywood triangles on the 16’ long walls at the top. Attach plywood to cover. Be sure to frame for the loft window and install this after the plywood is on the outside. 21. TRIM INSTALLATION: (2-4 people) The 1x4 trim (now painted) can be installed in the following order: Trim out the windows, put the horizontal trim on the 16’ long walls below the triangle plywood to cover the seam, install the vertical trim on the plywood seams and the corners as per plan. (Leave the door trim for the door installation crew) 22. ELECTRICAL TRIMOUT: (2-4 People) After the sheetrock is taped and mudded, install the light fixtures, light switches, outlets, circuit breaker box (if supplied) and install all the light bulbs and cover plates. 23. FRONT DOOR INSTALLATION: (2-3 people) After the sheetrock is 90% complete, install front door as per door installation guide. Install and test the lockset and give the keys to the site leader. 24. PAINT TOUCH-UPS: (2-3 PEOPLE) This is a good job for a couple of people that are getting a little burned out…it’s not hard and involved. The facia should be painted on the outside and bottom edge. And the nails on the trim can be painted over. It’s a good idea to paint over exposed knots in the plywood and on any unpainted cut ends of the trim. 25. JOBSITE CLEANUP: (1-3 People) This is a very overlooked and very necessary job. This can be done at all times especially toward the end of the workday. It allows others to work more safely and efficiently. 10 HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION HELPS Your casa will stay together better if You use the correct fasteners… Here’s what should be used where Get one of your Spanish-speakers to ask “Donde’ esta’ los clavos?” (Where are the nails?”) There will be a full box of 16d and a full box of 8d nails. There are plastic bags inside the box of building parts (the family usually has these hiding under a bed or somewhere). There will be a bag of sheetrock nails, a bag of roofing nails and a very small bag of concrete nails. 16d Vinyl-coated: these are 3.5” longand have a green coating on them. There is a full box of these…they’re for attaching 2x4’s and 2x6’s (framing) 8d Vinyl-coated: these are for plywood on the walls and the roof deck… they are about 2.5 “ long. There is a full box of these as well Sheetrock nails: 1and5/8” long, a shiny black color, sometimes a cupped head. These are in a bag inside the box of parts. Used to install sheetrock…yep… Roofing Nail: 1” long, shiny silver color…don’t get these confused with the sheetrock nails… roofing nails have a larger head. Cable staple: for attaching the electric cables to the sides of the framing. Look for a small box of these. Use a block to help Pull bent nails…. Concrete Nails: Beefy, ribbed nail…for nailing into the concrete (in a small bag … just a handful of them) 11 LAYOUT, FRAMING THE WALLS AND ROOF STRUCTURE 12 FLOOR PLAN 20' Wall #2 BEDROOM #1 Window Openings = Measure window width and height (frame-not the flange) and add 1/2" to both dimensions. Wall #4 Wall #5 (Ceiling is 7' in both bedrooms for loft above) 10' Wall #3 LIVING AREA (Cathedral Ceiling is Open to Rafters here) 16' Wall #6 BEDROOM #2 Door Opening = Measure door and frame and add 1" to both dimensions . 10' Wall #1 FLOOR PLAN Denotes loft floor area 13 Getting Started on the First Day Not sure where to start? Here’s a way to get your house and crew off to a good start! 1. Meet the Family: Smiles and “hola” work great...circle around the cement floor, hold hands and pray for your project! Be sure to include your new family in your prayer circle! 2. Organize your materials... When you get there, most likely the materials will be stacked up on the cement floor. This means that it’s in your way...you need to move it and put it in stacks that will allow your crew to build on the cement. 3. Find the 2x4’s ...check to see if the studs have been cut to 92 1/4 “...if they haven’t have a crew start to cut them on the chop saw...you’ll need about 50 of them to make your exterior walls. Remember there won’t be alot of wood left over so measure twice and cut once if needed. 4. Let your crew know it takes a little time to get the first couple of walls laid out...tell them to be patient and ready to nail the plywood sheeting on. Build Wall #1: 1. Cut the top and sill plates to length: Cut 2 2x4x20’s to the same length as the cement slab -> If your slab is 16 feet long, turn to the right 90 degrees and measure it again!... 2. Mark and drill holes for the anchor bolts: After the top and sill plates are cut to length, you can have a couple of helpers hold the sill plate on top of the bolts (make sure it’s even with the ends and side of the cement) and simply smack the sill plate with a hammer over the top of the bolts to mark the drilling location. Then drill the holes with a 5/8 or 3/4 “ bit. 3. Layout marks for stud locations on top and sill plate: place the top and sill plates side by side and stand them up so the 1 1/2” sides are facing up (make sure the holes you drilled in the sill are oriented correctly (h*). Take a tape measure and from one end measure over 2 feet (there usually is a mark to denote every 2 feet on your tape). The next step is really important...from the 2 foot mark, measure back 3/4 “...and place a mark to denote the edge of the stud (put a big X on the side where the stud will go) 14 How to Mark “ON CENTER” 2. Mark a large “X” on the right hand side of the line to show where the stud will be attached. 3. Right side of stud mark is optional...it’s 1.5 inches from the other line Notice the plates are up on edge and next to each other. 1. Place the tape on the left end of the plates and find the 2 foot location...back up 3/4 of an inch and place a line on both plates Mark each 2 feet on center as above. You’ll have to make a “California Corner” at the two ends of your wall. (See the detail on the next page.) Have your crew nail the 92 and 1/4” studs at each location. Once all of the studs and Cal corners are in place, CHECK FOR STRAIGHT AND SQUARE on your wall a) check for straight: simply sight down the plate and see if it’s fairly straight ...if not line it up as best as possible. b) check for square: take a tape measure (a 30’ tape is needed) and diagonally measure in both directions. If they aren’t equal you need to “rack” the wall (have one or two people stand on one plate while you tap the other plate with a hammer until the lengths are equal). 15 Wall 1 (and 2) Wall 1 and 2 layout Top plate Studs Diagonal dimensions need to be the same as opposite diagonal dimension (within 1/8") sill plate 4x8 Ply Studs are framed at 2 feet on center Side View of Wall 1 and 2 Plywood Sheet -start at one side and make sure it is centered on the 3rd stud for nailing Attach 5 plywood sheets to the wall before standing it up. Plywood should overhang the SILLPlate by 1/2" This stud is laid flat (to accomodate sheetrock corner backing) Add one flat to each end of walls 1 and 2 (It's easier to nail the two studs together before attaching them to the sill and top plate on the CA corners) California Corner Detail 16 “Going UP!” Now you can lift your #1 wall up. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYONE KEEP THEIR TOES OUT FROM UNDER THE WALL!! “Going UP!” HINT: Place scrap 2x4 blocks (2 high) next to the anchor bolts at both ends of the wall and in the middle. Then set the bottom end of the wall on the blocks...this will allow you to lift the wall up over the anchor bolts. 1) Have the whole group help to lift and steady the wall while it is levered free of the blocks. 2) Brace the wall at both ends with diagonal bracing (2 on each end) <-Assembled Wall <-2x4 Blocks 3) Repeat this process to stand up wall #2 Make sure those walls are secure…we don’t want them fallin’ down! * <-Cement Floor When you see that the anchor bolts line up under the holes in the sillplate, Place a lever under the edge of the wall. While the group steadies the wall, push down carefully on the lever bar to raise the wall just enough to be able to slide the blocks out from under the wall. Then lower the wall down being careful of everyone’s toes… Then repeat in the middle and at the other end. Place 2x4 diagonal braces to hold the wall up. 17 Wall Framing Pictures Don’t put up wall #5 or 6 until you have the loft floor installed! Wall #1 is up and diagonally braced while Wall #2 is framed and plywooded. Lift and brace #2 as well. Once the loft joists are in, the plywood deck can be installed (3/4’ ply). To make nailing easier, chalkline the joists. It’s not necessary to stagger the plywood joints on the loft. Wall # 3 is lifted into place and the loft 2x6 floor can be installed next. Note that only the 2 center sheets of plywood on wall 3 are installed before it is lifted into place (the 2 outer pieces overlap walls 1 and 2. Then install wall #5-same stud lengths as 1-3. Wall #6 is under the loft joists… be sure to have everyone get off the loft while installing #6. After that, put up wall #4 with just the 2 center plywood sheets 18 Wall #3 Layout Channel for wall intersection: place 1 2x4 flat on the floor and tack 2 2x4's to form a u-shape channel . You'll need 2 of these. They are 92and 1/4" long. One is for wall 3 and is for wall 5. Length is measured directly in between walls 1 and 2 (should be approx 185") Channel 3x3 window add 1/2" to width and height Window + 1/2" 3x3 window add 1/2" to width and height Window + 1/2" 20" 21 1/2" 44" 68" 92" 116" 140" 164" Wall #3 Layout (p.2) 19 Channel 3x3 window add 1/2" to width and height Plywood Sheet #2 Plywood Sheet #1 3x3 window add 1/2" to width and height Place edge of Sheet #1 on center of this side of channel, then install Sheet #2...leave outer sheets off until wall is up and in place! One bedroom will be slightly wider due to channel location...it's ok ...no worries! After the 2 center sheets of ply are nailed in place (you can cut the windows out later if you want), raise the wall and check for plumb (straight up and down) with a level, then nail to walls 1 and 2 NOTE: If your building site is a challenging location, sometimes it's helpful to leave the other 2 sheets of plywood off as long as possible to create easier access to inside the house....like a second doorway. 20 1. Attach ledger 2x6 to inside of wall #3 with the bottom edge of the ledger at 7’ above the cement floor (it’s real good to take a chalk line and mark walls 1,2 and 3 at 7’ above the floor in the bedroom area) 2. Install 2x4x14 blocking on studs of walls 1 and 2 in the bedroom area (see diagram on next page) Secure with 16d nails- 3 in each 3. Install 16’ 2x6 on the blocks across from wall 1 to wall 2 and secure with 16d nails – there will be five of these. 4. Install the 3/4” plywood on top of the ceiling joists. You will need 5 sheets . Secure with 8d nails. Chalk line the nail lines to aid in nailing. 5. Stand on the loft floor when done and celebrate your accomplishment! Top of Wall #2 Top of Wall #1 Bottom Edge of Ledger Is at 7’ above cement floor Install Block of 2x4’s at least 14’ long making sure to place the top of the block at your 7” mark from the floor. This will allow the bottom of your 2x6 ceiling joists to be at 7’ as well (allowing your ceiling to be nailed to the bottom side! Be sure to secure with 16d nails in the blocks and in the ceiling joists when installing! 21 Notes to remember for next time: ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ 22 Loft framing page 2 Decking the Loft with Plywood 1. Begin at the front of the loft. You’ll need to cut the length of the sheet of plywood so that the far end of the plywood is centered on the ceiling joist. THE LONGER LENGTH OF THE PLYWOOD RUNS FROM FRONT TO BACK IN THE HOUSE. Top View (Looking Down) of Loft Framing -Dark Lines indicate 2x6 ceiling joists 2. Nail the deck down with 8d nails Wall #2 Wall #5 (next step) Attach 2x6 to studs on top of the 2x4x14” blocks. Secure with 16d nails. Plywood sheet This edge centered on Joist-> Wall # 1 2x6 Ledger On Wall #3 23 Wall 5 Framing Details Locate channel to line up with channel in wall #3! Use 92 1/4'" long studs for wall 5. Channel Locate the channel so that it lines up with the channel in wall #3. Other wise your room may be hard to sheetrock! Frame #5 at 24" ON CENTER Use 92 1/4" studs Install wall centered bet ween side walls Use Concrete nails to secure to the floor-> Get Tough! 24 Wall #6 Measurement /Framing 2x6 Ceiling Joists over bedroom This wall fits in bet ween the bedrooms and below the loft floor....you can lay it out and frame it on the floor of the bedrooms... Frame it at 2' on center... single top plate is ok... Correct Measurements make this wall fit the first time...... READ BELOW... Measure vertically from the top of the 2 x4 blocks to the bottom of the ceiling joists ...this will give you the length of your studs for wall #6. Check the measurement at both channels (in wall 3 and 5) Sometimes they differ...pick the shortest measurement and subtract about 1/8" so that it is easier to install under the ceiling joists Measure the top and sill plates and subtract 1/8" from that measurement as well. Install the wall to line up with the channels in walls 3 and 5.... Secure with concrete nails in the floor and 16d nails in the walls.. 2 pieces of 2x4 blocks stacked flat on the cement floor 25 Notes for next time: Wall #6 is best framed on the bedroom floor area. Reminder: put the loft and wall 5 up first to allow easier installation of ceiling joists ! _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ Wall 5 Wall 6 lines up with the channels you installed in wall 3 and 5. This will allow you to nail the sheetrock in the corners! Wall 6 _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________ Subtract about 1/4” from the width to allow easier installation . 26 Wall #4 Layout The “rough opening” for the door should be 1.5-2” wider and 1” higher than the Pre-Hung door outside measurements… typically is you have a standard prehung 3’ door, a 38.5 width and a 6’10” height is ample. The “rough opening” for the winow: Add 1/2” to each dimension of the window frame …it’s good to doublecheck this with the actual window. Start your layout at the center of the wall. Layout 2 ‘ on center. It’s best to locate the window right next to the center…it makes it much simpler on your layout. Window Measurements are from "edge to edge" Door Opening Measurements are from "edge to edge" Door and Window cutouts can be done after the wall is up. <-Plywood sheeting -> Measure back to allow for opening 2' 2' 4' 6' Raise wall with center 2 sheets of plywood installed…then overlap the outside sheets onto walls 1 and2. 6' Length of Wall is Determined from measuring between walls 1 and 2 27 2and Top Plates 20' Wall #2 For a strong structure, you'll need to add a second top plate to the walls. BEDROOM #1 THE CORNERS WILL OVERLAP THE JOINTS OF THE EXISTING TOP PLATES-THIS MAKES A STRONGER CONNECTION . Wall #4 16' Wall #3 2. FILL IN THE REST OF THE TOP PLATES ON WALLS 1 AND 2 WITH 2X4 USING 16d NAILS NOTED BY Wall #5 1. CUT 3 16' TOP PLATES AND INSTALL WITH 16D NAILS NOTED BY LOft Floor Ply Wall #6 BEDROOM #2 10' Wall #1 28 Wall-framing checklist… 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Walls completed and skinned with plywood? Anchor bolts in place…not too tight? Windows cut in? Second top plate installed and joints are overlapping? Loft floor nailed off? Great if all this is ready, have your electrical crew start in setting their boxes and running the wiring for the electrical circuits… Notes: ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 29 Framing the Roof 30 Framing the Roof Framing a roofline can seem difficult, confusing and plainly intimidates a lot of casabuilders We’ve devised a very simple, broken-into-steps strategy to make you a success There are 3 basic steps to framing the roof 1. Assemble ridgeposts, and ridge: These are just fancy terms for the long center 2x6 that runs the length of the house and the “thingees” that hold it up… Ridge Beam: 2 12-foot 2x6’s joined at the center ridge post-Pick the straightest 2x6s for this part of your structure! Ridge Post-one in front, one in back, and one In the center of the house Blocking- between rafters at wall topplates Rafters 26 in all, 22 of Style #1 4 of Style #2 2. Install Blocking and the Facia: Blocks close up the holes between the rafters and facia ties the lower end of the rafters together. 3. Install the Plywood Sheeting on the Roof Structure Okay, it’s really not that had…LET”S GO! -> Facia Boards 31 Ridge Post Details Stand 2x4 up like this in your chop saw to make cuts Side A Center is slightly taller than side a and b Set chop saw 26 degrees to the right 45 5/8" Center Square cut both ends 46 1/4" Side A Side B Center Side B Set chop saw to 26 degrees to the left 45 5/8" You will need 3 ridge post assemblies. Use 16d nails . BE SURE TO MAKE THE BOTTOM OF THE POSTS VERY FLAT! 32 Wall 2 Center Line Center Line Wall 1 1. 2. 3. 4. Measure to find the centerline at the front,center and rear of the house Center your posts as indicated with the angled 2x4's facing walls 1 and 2 Use a level to plumb the posts (level vertically) in both directions Secure by "toe-nailing into the top plate in 4 locations on each post 33 Ridge will stick out past the outer posts by 24” Ridge Posts and Ridge Beam Details Plumb the posts with a level…side to side and front to back….before installing rafters! Ridge joint is over the center post! Ridge Post and Beam Installation tips Double layer of 2x6 nailed to the top plates …install on both sides of ridge over living area. 1. Plumb the posts…this is just “leveling vertically”. Check plumb from side to side and front to back…. 2. The two 2x6 ridge beams will meet over the center post. 3. When Installing the rafters, put in the rafters at the front, back and center FIRST…be sure to keep your posts plumb or your roof will play funny games with your plywood! 4. Make a walkway over the living room area with 2x6’s…double them up and they won’t sag… do this on both sides of the ridge to allow you to install the rafters safely. 34 9' 8" Rafter Cutting Details Rafter Style #1 - You'll need 22 of these.. 26.5 deg. 9' 8" 1 9/16"" Rafter Style #2 - You'll need 4 of these.. 44" 5 5/8" 92" 5 5/8" Rafter: 1. Use the 2x6x10" ...avoid using the 12' or longer ones...you'll need these later. 2.Set the chop saw to 26 degrees . 3. Measure from a square end 9' 8" ... (this is the top of the rafter) and cut as indicated above. 4 . Make 22 of Style #1 and 4 of Style #2 --- Use a jigsaw or sawsall to cut the notches in #2 5. Pack-n-stack : Pack the rafters over to the walls of the house and stack them up leaning on the house so that your rafter crew can easily reach them! 26.5 deg. Rafter Layout Close-up Top View of Rafters 35 Rafter Layout Procedure: 1. Mark the topplates as indicated here… ( everything is layed out “on—center. 2. Mark the ridge to match your layouts you put on the walls.(Start your on-center layout at the outside edge of the front and rear posts.) 3. Be sure to keep your posts level before you nail the rafters into the top plates. 4. Install the #2-style rafters first. These are located at the wall 3 and 4. (the notches allow for the lookouts to hold up the “barge-rafters”. 5. Install the center rafters at the center post next 6. Fill in all the other rafters on walls 1 and 2. Keep the ridge as straight as you can… 7. Install eight 2x6 lookouts… lookout length= 45 3/4”… these are laid flat in the notches of the rafters at the walls 3 and 4. Now it’s time for blocking… 36 Rafter Blocking. Facia and Plywood decking details Wall #1 and 2 block measurements (viewed from above) 1. Cut 4 pieces of 2x6 to 21 5/8” and cut 16 blocks at 22 3/8” 2. Install blocks between the rafters along the top plate of walls 1 and 2 as shown above …the 4 shorter blocks go in the outermost location…their purpose is to hold the rafters straight and to close up the space between the rafters above the top plate and below the plywood roof deck…use 16d nails Refer to the pictures at the beginning of the roofing section. 3. Install the 2x6 facia as shown at the left.. use pieces that are longer than 8’..it looks better. 4. Install the plywood deck…stagger the seams by 4’…see previous page for plywood layout. Nail the deck down with 8d nails 10-12 “ apart. Be sure the ends of the plywood are on the rafters and over the top of the facia… 37 Gable End Framing/Close-in Cut t wo sheets diagonally as shown....put the good side up when cutting each! 4x8 Ply 4x8 Ply Lay 2 plywood sheets out with the good side up. Mark diagonally one in each direction. This will give you 4 triangles to cover the front and back gables on walls 3 and 4. Window Header 2x4: Add 1/2" to width of window to determine length. r f te Ra Lo 2x4 Cripple Studs- turn sideways angle on top is 26.5 degrees R af ft te r W in do w 3rd Top Plate 1. Add a third top plate on walls 3 and 4. This will give you something to nail the plywood to at the bottom. 2. Cut 2x4's for cripples as shown.. Cut 4 @ 22" and 3 @32" and wedge them in under the rafter. 3. The cripple next to the window will need precise measurement to allow for the loft window to be framed with 1/2" extra on the height and width for the rough opening. 38 Roof-framing checklist… 1. Rafters toe-nailed to top plates? 2. Blocking in place? 3. Plywood deck nailed every 10 inches? If you’re done, have your roofing crew get set up to install the roofing felt paper …if it’s late in the day don’t put the felt paper on until the morning…it tends to blow away in the wind and if it gets wet, it’s very slippery… better to wait until the a.m. Notes: ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 39 Roofing Installation 40 1. INSTALL FELT PAPER: After the plywood deck is secure, install felt paper with 3/8” staples. Start at the bottom edge, and overlap 2-4” on each course of paper. Completely paper the roof. 2. Install DRIP EDGE FLASHING: use roofing nails to attach the drip edge flashing over the felt paper. Attach to the perimeter of the roof. Nail on the top only. Bent lip is down! The nails are galvanized and about 1” long. 3. INSTALL THE STARTER COURSE OF SHINGLES: Take a regular shingle and turn it so the grooves (tabs) are facing up the slope (with the gravel side up). Nail this at the bottom edge of the slope. LEAVE AT LEAST A 1/2” OVERHANG ON THE BOTTOM AND THE SIDES. BUTT THE SHINGLES NEXT TO EACH OTHER…DON’T OVERLAP THEM SIDE-TO-SIDE! Nail at the tar line in 4 places. 4. FIRST COURSE OF SHINGLES: Install the first course of shingle with the tabs facing down the slope and nail them directly over the starter course… DON’T PUT THE JOINTS IN THE SAME PLACE AS THE JOINTS IN THE STARTER COURSE. 5. INSTALL THE 2AND COURSE: Cut a shingle in half (lengthwise) to stagger the tabs and joints from the first course. The shingle should overlap so that the bottom edge of the second course is just above the tabs of the first course. 6. Install Both side of the roof up to the top 7. INSTALL THE CAP SHINGLES: Snap several Shingles at the tab lines to make 3 equal Pieces. Turn them sideways and attach to The ridge (see diagram below) Roofing Installation 41 Electrical Layout and Wiring 42 Electrical Wiring and Layout If wiring is a mystery to you, Here are 3 steps to successfully wire your CASA! 1. Install or “Set” the outlet, switch and fixture boxes and the circuit breaker box * : This is simply nailing the boxes in the right places onto the framing. 2. Run the wiring or “runnin’ the rope” –Drilling holes in the framing and running the wires to the boxes that you installed . 3. Hook up the wires to the fixtures, switches and outlets- or “Trim Out” ¿Donde’ esta’ mi electricidad? Remember: “I can do all things through CHRIST who strengthens me” Phillipians 4: 13 * it is highly recommended to install a simple breaker box in the house…we aren’t always supplied with this and it is a good idea to visit your local Home Depot and purchase a 30amp Square D service disconnect box and 1 15amp breaker. Be sure that you test fit the breaker…there are a couple different types so get the one that works with the box. 43 44 LOCATE BREAKER BOX 5’ UP AND ON THE INSIDE OF THIS WALL 45 IMPORTANT! BE SURE TO LABEL ALL WIRES AS INDICATED..USE A SHARPIE PEN TO MARK THE WHITE SHEATHING ON THE WIRES 46 47 Assembled box and breaker: Mount this in the bedroom where your circuits will begin. Circuit Breaker Box Parts Identification Circuit Breaker: Attach the black wires of your house wiring to this screw- one from the front circuit and one from the back circuit. After it is wired up, snap it in place Main Lug: Hook the electric service hot lead to this…if in doubt, ask for help hooking it up. If you want to leave it for the owner to do, just hook up a 3’ piece of romex and hang it outside hook the white to the bus bar. Available from Home Depot: Square D brand 30A : this is the “QO” style box and 15 Amp breaker. It costs about $12. Cover Plate With square cut-out for the breaker. Neutral/ Ground buss bar. White and bare wires will hook up here. Make sure no black wires touch this … USE ONLY A 15 AMP BREAKER ! ANYTHING LARGER MAY ALLOW WIRES TO OVERHEAT! 48 IMPORTANT! WHEN HOOKING UP THE WIRES TO PLUG RECEPTACLES, BE SURE TO ATTACH THE BLACK WIRES TO THE BRASS-COLORED SCREWS AND THE WHITE WIRES TO THE SILVER-COLORED SCREWS! 49 50 BE SURE.... BE SURE... BE SURE.... BE SURE... TO HOOK THE BLACK WIRES TO THE BRASSCOLORED SCREWS ON THE OUTLETS! THE WHITE WIRES GO ONLY ON THE SILVER-COLORED SCREWS...BARE WIRES GO ON THE GREEN SCREW. If the switches do not have a green grounding screw, clip out the bare copper wire from the electrical box. 51 52 53 Sheetrock Installation 54 Sheetrock Installation Thinning your MUD The sheetrock compound or “MUD” comes in boxes lined with plastic bags. This stuff needs to be thinned out with water before you start. 1. Dump the contents of the box into a 5-gallon bucket…This is really fun…especially getting the last little bit out of that bag… 2. Pour about 1 cup of water on top of the mud in the bucket. 3. Take your “potato masher” and slowly begin to work the water into the mud. This takes a little bit…You’ll notice that the mud loses it’s gloss and gets a little “flat” …that’s when it’s ready… If you put too much water in it, your in trouble…so err on the thick side… You don’t want it so thin that it slops off your trowels… REMEMBER WE ONLY GET 2 BOXES OF THIS STUFF PER HOUSE…some people run out because they put it on too heavy…discourage your team from having mud wars…at least until the taping is done…. Sheetrock Installation: 1. Start in the bedrooms and install the ceilings first. Try to keep your joints smaller than 1/4”. 2. Hang the sheetrock on the walls of the bedrooms next and work your way out to the living area. 3. Install sheetrock strips at the windows and the door jambs of the bedrooms. 4. Install sheetrock metal corners to the windows, and the door openings. 5. Mud the bedrooms first and then the main room. 6. Nail Sheetrock every 10-12”-be careful not to break the edges! 55 Cutting Sheetrock Measure for your cuts Cut with a sheetrock knife For anything less than a full sheet, it’s a good idea to subtract about 1/4” from each measurement…this will give you extra room to fit your panel in without a lot of sanding, rasping, or recutting…a 1/8” gap around the panel is acceptable and easy to mud over. Snap the panel Simply bend the panel at the line and the sheetrock will break along the line that you cut… Then just take your knife and cut the backing paper on the backside of the break… Cut thru the paper front and slightly into the core of the sheetrock panel…one pass will do it! Use a sharp blade… Clean up edges If you need to remove any chunks from the edges, use a block with sandpaper or a sure-form rasp to lightly clean up the edges…don’t go too far or you’ll get a lot of paper curled up on the edge and it can be a problem to tape and mud it later…. 56 Nailing Sheetrock.. Be sure to set the nail deep enough to make a dimple in the sheetrock BUT don’t break through the paper…this makes sure the panel in tight and the trowel can glide over the top of the nail without hitting it! Metal Sheetrock Corners Metal corners are attached to the doorways into the bedrooms and around the window openings to protect the sheetrock from breaking away if it gets hit… Attach with sheetrock nails every 5-6 inches Sheetrock Install Tips Installing sheetrock on ceilings Install the ceiling panel perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Try to keep the joints as tight as possible… Get two people to help hold while one person nails. Dimple your nails to make sure it’s tight…careful not to crush the cut edges when you nail them! Cut the metal corners Cut the metal corners with tin snips… When nailing, be careful not to hit the corner of the metal…if it gets dented , it will be more difficult to mud! Cover the metal in a heavy,even coat of mud…remove any excess with your trowel 57 Taping Sheetrock Seams First… Cover up the nails in the center of the sheetrock panels with a coat or two of mud…keep your trowel flat on the wall… Third… Apply a strip of paper tape in the coat of mud and with a light coat of mud on your trowel and a little pressure, carefully embed the tape in a the second coat of mud… Second… Apply a medium coat of mud to the nailed seams ..hold your trowel at a 30-40 degree angle from the wall… Fourth… Go back over your seam with medium pressure and remove the excess compound…just scrape it off the trowel into your tray.. 58 Taping Corners Important: First… Be sure to keep your trowel clean often…wipe off excess mud…be sure to scrape off dried mud often…don’t put the dried back in the pan…if you can find a rag and water wipe the tray and trowel clean periodically Second… Fold a piece of paper tape along the crease in the center and apply it gently into the mud. Apply a medium coat of mud to both side of your corner.. Third… Trowel the tape smoothly into the coat of mud..go back over to remove any excess mud…be careful not to pull the paper out of the mud! 59 Door Installation 60 61 62 63 64 Exterior Trim Details 1. 1x4 is used for trim…this should be painted on 3 sides before installation. 2. Attach horizontally on walls 3 and 4 between the gable triangle and the 8’ high siding first. 3. Attach at the corners as shown below 4. Attach at each veritical seam in the plywood to cover the seam. 5. Wrap the door and the windows as shown… 65 Loft Ladder 9’ 6” 66 Section Index Site Leader Notes Walls, Loft Framing Roof Framing Roofing Material Installation Electrical Section Sheetrock Install Door , Exterior trim and Ladder 3 11 29 39 41 53 59
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