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Casitas 101:
How to build your casa without
going totally loco
Casa building Plans, pictures and instructions
Please feel free to copy these plans for your group. Questions, suggestions? Email us at [email protected]
© ULBC CasaBuilders 2004
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Casitas 101: “How to Build Your Casa
without going crazy!
Guidelines and Helps for Casabuilders
So you want to build a casa with a group of volunteers...great! Our goal with this guide is to make it as simple
and as easy as possible. We’ve taken a very basic step-by-step approach to keep the average group from becoming
overwhelmed with the task at hand.
Most groups that build are just like yours...high on excitment and somewhat lower on construction ability. And
that’s perfect. These plans will help you finish your casa in a reasonable amount of time.
We recommend that you study these plans before you get there. There’s nothing worse than pulling the plans
out of your backpack while everyone else in the group is standing around waiting to go to work! So study and get
familiar with the plans and be sure to look at some pictures of houses in process and houses that are finished
(available at www.casabuilders.org) A picture is worth a 1000 words.
Helpful Spanish Words
Hammer; “Martillo (mar-TEE-yo)
My name is _______: Me llamo _______ (May-YAH-mo )
Nails: “Clavos” (KLAH-bos)
Nice to meet you: “Mucho gusto (moo-choh-goo-stow)
Door: “Puerta” (p’ware-tah)
I don’t speak spanish: No hablo español. (No AH-blow )
Window: “Ventana” (Bain-tah-nah)
What’s your name? : “Como se llama?” (ko-mo-say yah-mah)
Help! “Ayu’deme” (ah-you-day-may)
Where’s the 1st Aid Kit? Donde’ esta el botiquin (botee-keen)
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Notes for Site Leaders
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Four-Day CasaBuilding Plan
Here is an outline to help you build a casa over a 4-day period. This is a good pace for newer groups or groups with students that are the builders.
Your goal as site-leader is to try and stay several steps ahead of your group. This means that you get people started and move ahead of them as
best as you can.
Day One:
1. Meet the family you’re building for and pray together with everyone- circle around the slab and dedicate your efforts to the glory of
God!
2. Organize your materials and set up a safe jobsite
3. Frame and install walls 1,2,3 and 4
4. Install the loft joists and plywood
5. Paint the exterior plywood and the trim pieces (plywood can be painted after it is installed)
Day Two:
1. Frame Roofing System: Ridge, Rafters, Facia and Plywood (don’t install felt paper if it isn’t going to be shingled right away… it will
blow away and if it rains, it’s very slippery)
2. Install Rough Electrical : Electrical Boxes, and Wiring
3. Begin Sheetrock Work
4. Install 3x3 windows
Day Three:
1. Finish Sheetrock installation
2. Begin Roof Shingle installation
3. Close in the gable-end of the house (the triangular plywood panels on the front and rear walls)
4. Install loft window
5. Trim Installation on exterior
6. Install sheetmetal corners on sheetrock as needed.
7. Mud and tape the sheetrock
Day Four:
1. Finish taping and mudding sheetrock
2. Install front door and lockset
3. Touch-up painting on facia, trim and knotholes
4. Electrical trimout (switches, outlets, light fixtures and coverplates)
5. Jobsite cleanup
6. House Dedication Ceremony
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Casa-building 2-Day Fast-Track Build Plan
A crew of 12-20 People with 4-5 experienced casabuilders can build a complete home in 2 days. Here are some guidelines to
keep you on track if you choose the 2-day plan.
Remember it’s not a race… don’t go nuts trying to “better your time”. Enjoy the whole process!
Goals Day One:
1. Meet your family
2. Frame,plywood, and paint exterior walls
3. Paint all trim pieces on 3 sides
4. Install 3x3 windows
5. Frame and plywood loft
6. Frame Roof structure
7. Begin Roof plywood installation
8. Rough electrical installation (boxes, wiring in walls )
9. Begin Sheetrock in Bedrooms
Goals Day Two:
1. Finish Roof plywood if needed
2. Install triangle ply on the top of the 16’ long walls
3. Install loft window
4. Install Exterior Trim
5. Install Roofing Material
6. Electrical Trimout (switches, outlets, light fixtures and coverplates)
7. Install front door and lockset
8. Cleanup on jobsite
9. House Dedication Ceremony
Items
Every Person
Hammer
Utility Knife
Tape Measure
Pencils
Gloves
Tool Belt
Every Site
General Constr.
Tool bins
Generator
Circular Saw
Chop Saw
Sawsall
Jig Saw
Safety Goggles
Electric Drill
7/8" Drill Bit
5/8" Drill Bit
Chaulk line&Chaulk
Level
Construction Stapler
Framer's Square
8" Crescent Wrench
3/4 -1" Chisel
Med. Crowbar
Elec. Power Strip
Extension Cords
Caulk gun/tubes
Ladder
Sheetmetal shears
Small Sledge Hamr.
Cat's Paw
Electrical Items
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Screw Drivers`
Pliers
Wire Nuts
Sheet Rock Tools
S/Rock Saw
S/Rock Square
Mud Trays
Putty Knives
"Potato Masher"
5-gallon bucket
Painting Tools
Paint Brushes
Paint Rollers/covers
Cleanup Tools
Rags
Broom/DustPan
Trash bags
Safety Items
First Aid Kit
Bottled Water
Sunscreen
Raingear
assort
1
You're gonna need it!
3-4 Bottles per person/day
even in the clouds
For Nov-May
great for wet paintbrush
3 more is better
3 with ext. handles
2 8" long w/big nasty teeth
1 4' Long
2 or 3 plastic or metal
4 to6
metal works best
1 thinning out mud
1 or 2 for mudding/paint/etc
assort
Who's Bringing it
must fit in van/subs
1 2000 watt or larger
1 At least 1 worm drive
1
1 with metal & wood blades
optional
2
1 don't forget chuck key!
2 spade-type is great
2 "
2
1 3 Foot or greater
1 w/3/8" staples for tarpaper
2 (speedsquare)
1 for anchor bolts
1
1
1 20 amp-rating (sugg)
3 25-50 ft.
1 for windows/2-3 tubes silicone
1 folding up to 12' is great
1 Cut s/rockcorners/flash
1 wall, attitude adjustment
2 Don't leave home w/o it!
1
1
2 1 flat, 1 phillips bit
1
assort 20 yellow/ 6 red
?
to keep nails/hammer
1 per person 16-20 oz.
at least 6 per site
5 per site
15 per site
#Req'd Comment
CasaBuilder'sTool list
To Mexico
From
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Getting Your Crew Involved
When you first arrive at the building site, your crew is going to be eager to get going. Your job as site leader is to delegate as
much of the tasks as soon as you can. Your goal should is to be thinking 3-4 steps ahead of the rest of your group so that you
can delegate things before you need them.
Here is a list in sequential order of tasks that you can hand out to your crew. A good majority of your crew will be helping you
frame the walls and nailing plywood.
1. ORGANIZE THE MATERIALS: (Everyone) When you get to your site, the lumber and materials are usually stacked on the
cement floor. You need to clear the floor because that’s where you’ll be laying out and building the walls. This is a good job
for everyone..Sort the materials by dimension and also by length… in other words, stack the 2x4 studs in a pile, and the
2x4x20 in a separate pile, be sure to keep the plywood accessible before the sheetrock.
2. LOCATE THE NAILS/HARDWARE: (1Person) Have someone talk to the Mexican family and find out where the nails are
and the hardware box. Refer to hardware indentifcation page for specifics.
3. SET UP SHOP: (2-3 People) Put the generator in a safe location from which 3 cords can be run to any spot in the
project…typically it is near the chop saw stand… run a cord with the drill set up with a 5/8” bit for drilling the sillplates.
Set up a skilsaw on a cord that can reach everywhere on the site.
4. CUT THE STUDS: (2-3 people) Have the cutting crew start cutting 2x4’s to 92 1/4” …you’ll need about 50 of
these…check the measurements of the studs…some are precut to this length … if not have them cut the 8’ 2x4’s Save the
20’ and 16’ 2x4 for the top plates and sill plates.
5. LAYOUT THE WALLS AND FRAME: (Layout 1-2, Framing: 8-12 People) The majority of your crew will be helping
here…after the plywood is attached and raised, have the painters roll the wall exterior with paint .
6. INSTALL LOFT FLOOR JOISTS AND PLYWOOD DECK: 2x6x16… You’ll need 6 2x6x16’. Have them cut the 2x4x14”
support blocks and install them as per loft plan page. There should be 5 sheets of 3/4” thick plywood for the loft floor.
This needs to be installed prior to the wall 5 and 6 below it.
7. CUT THE RAFTERS: (2-3 People) As soon as all the studs are cut, have the crew start cutting the rafters… you’ll need 26
total.. these are cut out of 10’ long 2x6….DON’T CUT THE 12’ 2X6 OR THE 16’ 2X6 FOR RAFTERS. You’ll need these for
ridge, and facia and the ladder.
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8. PAINT THE EXTERIOR WALLS: (3-6 People) Once a wall is up, have the paint crew roll them with color.
9. PAINT THE TRIM: (2-4 people) Set up with rollers and paint 3 sides of the trim 1x4. Have them find a place to stand or
lay these while they dry…There is a 1-gallon can of trim paint.
10. CUT 4 RAFTERS WITH NOTCHES FOR THE LOOKOUTS. See the rafter cutting details. These rafters are for the front wall
and the rear wall of the house…The notches allow for 2x6 to be added to support the “barge rafter at the edge of the
eaves.
11. ELECTRICAL BOX AND WIRE INSTALLATION: (3-4 People) This is a job to delegate to some go-getters. Have them locate
all the electrical parts and install the outlet boxes as per electrical plans. You can have a secondary crew drill the holes for
the wiring through the framing.
12. CUT OUT PLYWOOD FOR WINDOWS AND INSTALL WINDOWS: Drill a pilot hole each corner of the window openings, and
then connect the dots with a sawzall! Have 2 or 3 people work together on this. The windows are installed on top of the
plywood with 8d nails through the flange… use caulking under the flange if you have it.
13. BUILD RIDGE POSTS AND RIDGE: Have a crew of 2 cut and assemble ridge posts as per plans. Locate 2 of the straightest
2x6x12 for the ridge beam. These can be exactly 12’each.
14. RIDGE/RAFTER/BLOCK/FACIA INSTALLATION: A substantial sized group can be installing rafters and the blocks
between them. AFTER the blocks, install the 2x6 facia.
15. ROOF/GABLE PLYWOOD CUTTING: Have a crew of 2 ready to hand out plywood to your roofing crew. Cut as much as you
can on the ground.
16. PLYWOOD ROOF DECK INSTALLATION: (A crew of 4-8) Crew should be wearing shoes that aren’t too slippery. Try to
attach the deck over the loft first.
17. ROOFING INSTALLATION: (6-8People) Roofing install starts with the felt paper stapled in place…Don’t install this if you
aren’t going to install shingles on the same day…Many a roofing crew has come back in the morning expecting to shingle
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over their previously installed felt paper, only to find the felt paper littering the hillside. If there is any rain or dew on the
felt paper, it’s very, very slippery…
18. SHEETROCK INSTALLATION: (6-8People): Don’t start until the wiring is run to the boxes! Sheet rock installation starts
with the bedroom ceilings and works down the walls and out to the main room. Tape and mud the sheetrock as soon as
the bedrooms are complete with sheetrock and metal corners.
19. SHEETROCK METAL CORNERS: (2-3 People) The thin metal perforated corners can be installed over all “outside” corners
to protect the sheetrock. Use sheetmetal snips to cut to proper lengths. This is at the windows, and doorways to the
bedrooms.
20. CRIPPLE STUDS/PLYWOOD INSTALL FOR GABLE ENDS OF HOUSE: (2 People) Angle-cut 2x4 for backing the plywood
triangles on the 16’ long walls at the top. Attach plywood to cover. Be sure to frame for the loft window and install this
after the plywood is on the outside.
21. TRIM INSTALLATION: (2-4 people) The 1x4 trim (now painted) can be installed in the following order: Trim out the
windows, put the horizontal trim on the 16’ long walls below the triangle plywood to cover the seam, install the vertical
trim on the plywood seams and the corners as per plan. (Leave the door trim for the door installation crew)
22. ELECTRICAL TRIMOUT: (2-4 People) After the sheetrock is taped and mudded, install the light fixtures, light switches,
outlets, circuit breaker box (if supplied) and install all the light bulbs and cover plates.
23. FRONT DOOR INSTALLATION: (2-3 people) After the sheetrock is 90% complete, install front door as per door
installation guide. Install and test the lockset and give the keys to the site leader.
24. PAINT TOUCH-UPS: (2-3 PEOPLE) This is a good job for a couple of people that are getting a little burned out…it’s not hard
and involved. The facia should be painted on the outside and bottom edge. And the nails on the trim can be painted over.
It’s a good idea to paint over exposed knots in the plywood and on any unpainted cut ends of the trim.
25. JOBSITE CLEANUP: (1-3 People) This is a very overlooked and very necessary job. This can be done at all times especially
toward the end of the workday. It allows others to work more safely and efficiently.
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HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION HELPS
Your casa will stay together better if
You use the correct fasteners…
Here’s what should be used where
Get one of your Spanish-speakers to ask “Donde’ esta’ los clavos?” (Where are the nails?”) There will be a full box of 16d and
a full box of 8d nails. There are plastic bags inside the box of building parts (the family usually has these hiding under a bed or
somewhere). There will be a bag of sheetrock nails, a bag of roofing nails and a very small bag of concrete nails.
16d Vinyl-coated: these are 3.5” longand have a green coating on them.
There is a full box of these…they’re for attaching 2x4’s and 2x6’s (framing)
8d Vinyl-coated: these are for plywood on the walls and the roof deck… they
are about 2.5 “ long. There is a full box of these as well
Sheetrock nails: 1and5/8” long, a shiny black color, sometimes a cupped head.
These are in a bag inside the box of parts. Used to install sheetrock…yep…
Roofing Nail: 1” long, shiny silver color…don’t get these confused
with the sheetrock nails… roofing nails have a larger head.
Cable staple: for
attaching the electric
cables to the sides of the
framing. Look for a
small box of these.
Use a block to help
Pull bent nails….
Concrete Nails: Beefy, ribbed nail…for nailing into the concrete (in a small bag … just a handful of them)
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LAYOUT, FRAMING THE WALLS AND ROOF STRUCTURE
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FLOOR PLAN
20'
Wall #2
BEDROOM #1
Window Openings = Measure window
width and height (frame-not the flange)
and add 1/2" to both dimensions.
Wall #4
Wall #5
(Ceiling is 7' in both
bedrooms for loft above)
10'
Wall #3
LIVING AREA
(Cathedral Ceiling is
Open to Rafters here)
16'
Wall #6
BEDROOM #2
Door Opening = Measure door and frame
and add 1" to both dimensions .
10'
Wall #1
FLOOR PLAN
Denotes loft floor area
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Getting Started on the First Day
Not sure where to start? Here’s a way to get your house and crew
off to a good start!
1. Meet the Family: Smiles and “hola” work great...circle around the cement floor, hold hands and pray for your project!
Be sure to include your new family in your prayer circle!
2. Organize your materials... When you get there, most likely the materials will be stacked up on the cement floor. This
means that it’s in your way...you need to move it and put it in stacks that will allow your crew to build on the cement.
3. Find the 2x4’s ...check to see if the studs have been cut to 92 1/4 “...if they haven’t have a crew start to cut them on
the chop saw...you’ll need about 50 of them to make your exterior walls. Remember there won’t be alot of wood left over
so measure twice and cut once if needed.
4. Let your crew know it takes a little time to get the first couple of walls laid out...tell them to be patient and ready to
nail the plywood sheeting on.
Build Wall #1:
1. Cut the top and sill plates to length: Cut 2 2x4x20’s to the same length as the cement slab -> If your slab is 16 feet
long, turn to the right 90 degrees and measure it again!...
2. Mark and drill holes for the anchor bolts: After the top and sill plates are cut to length, you can have a couple of helpers
hold the sill plate on top of the bolts (make sure it’s even with the ends and side of the cement) and simply smack the sill
plate with a hammer over the top of the bolts to mark the drilling location. Then drill the holes with a 5/8 or 3/4 “ bit.
3. Layout marks for stud locations on top and sill plate: place the top and sill plates side by side and stand them up so the
1 1/2” sides are facing up (make sure the holes you drilled in the sill are oriented correctly (h*).
Take a tape measure and from one end measure over 2 feet (there usually is a mark to denote every 2 feet on your tape).
The next step is really important...from the 2 foot mark, measure back 3/4 “...and place a mark to denote the edge of the
stud (put a big X on the side where the stud will go)
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How to Mark “ON CENTER”
2. Mark a large “X” on the right hand side of the line
to show where the stud will be attached.
3. Right side of stud mark is optional...it’s
1.5 inches from the other line
Notice the plates are up on edge and next to each other.
1. Place the tape on the left end of the plates and find
the 2 foot location...back up 3/4 of an inch and place a
line on both plates
Mark each 2 feet on center as above. You’ll have to make a “California Corner” at the two ends of your wall.
(See the detail on the next page.) Have your crew nail the 92 and 1/4” studs at each location.
Once all of the studs and Cal corners are in place, CHECK FOR STRAIGHT AND SQUARE on your wall
a) check for straight: simply sight down the plate and see if it’s fairly straight ...if not line it up as best as possible.
b) check for square: take a tape measure (a 30’ tape is needed) and diagonally measure in both directions. If they
aren’t equal you need to “rack” the wall (have one or two people stand on one
plate while you tap the other plate with a hammer until the lengths are equal).
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Wall 1 (and 2)
Wall 1 and 2 layout
Top plate
Studs
Diagonal dimensions need to be the
same as opposite diagonal
dimension (within 1/8")
sill plate
4x8 Ply
Studs are framed at 2 feet on center
Side View of Wall 1 and 2
Plywood Sheet -start at one side and make
sure it is centered on the 3rd stud for nailing
Attach 5 plywood sheets to the wall before standing it up.
Plywood should overhang the SILLPlate by 1/2"
This stud is laid flat (to accomodate sheetrock corner backing)
Add one flat to each end of walls 1 and 2
(It's easier to nail the two studs together before attaching them
to the sill and top plate on the CA corners)
California Corner Detail
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“Going UP!”
Now you can lift your #1 wall up.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERYONE
KEEP THEIR TOES OUT FROM UNDER
THE WALL!!
“Going UP!”
HINT: Place scrap 2x4 blocks (2 high) next to the anchor bolts at both ends of the wall and in
the middle. Then
set the bottom end of the wall on the blocks...this will allow you to lift the wall up over the
anchor bolts.
1) Have the whole group help to lift
and steady the wall while it is
levered free of the blocks.
2) Brace the wall at both ends with
diagonal bracing (2 on each end)
<-Assembled
Wall
<-2x4 Blocks
3) Repeat this process to stand up
wall #2
Make sure those walls
are secure…we don’t
want them fallin’ down!
*
<-Cement Floor
When you see that the anchor bolts line up under
the holes in the sillplate, Place a lever under the edge
of the wall. While the group steadies the wall, push
down carefully on the lever bar to raise the wall
just enough to be able to slide the blocks out from
under the wall.
Then lower the wall down being careful of
everyone’s toes…
Then repeat in the middle and at the other end.
Place 2x4 diagonal braces to hold the wall up.
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Wall Framing Pictures
Don’t put up wall
#5 or 6 until you
have the loft
floor installed!
Wall #1 is up and diagonally braced while Wall #2 is
framed and plywooded. Lift and brace #2 as well.
Once the loft joists are in, the plywood deck can be
installed (3/4’ ply). To make nailing easier,
chalkline the joists. It’s not necessary to stagger
the plywood joints on the loft.
Wall # 3 is lifted into place and the loft 2x6 floor can be
installed next. Note that only the 2 center sheets of plywood
on wall 3 are installed before it is lifted into place (the 2 outer
pieces overlap walls 1 and 2.
Then install wall #5-same stud lengths as 1-3.
Wall #6 is under the loft joists… be sure to have
everyone get off the loft while installing #6. After
that, put up wall #4 with just the 2 center
plywood sheets
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Wall #3 Layout
Channel for wall intersection: place 1 2x4 flat on the floor and tack
2 2x4's to form a u-shape channel . You'll need 2 of these. They
are 92and 1/4" long. One is for wall 3 and is for wall 5.
Length is measured directly in between walls 1 and 2 (should be approx 185")
Channel
3x3 window
add 1/2" to
width and height
Window + 1/2"
3x3 window
add 1/2" to
width and height
Window + 1/2"
20"
21 1/2"
44"
68"
92"
116"
140"
164"
Wall #3 Layout (p.2)
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Channel
3x3 window
add 1/2" to
width and height
Plywood Sheet #2
Plywood Sheet #1
3x3 window
add 1/2" to
width and height
Place edge of Sheet #1 on center of
this side of channel, then install Sheet
#2...leave outer sheets off until
wall is up and in place!
One bedroom will be slightly wider due to channel location...it's ok ...no worries!
After the 2 center sheets of ply are nailed in place (you can cut the windows out later if you want), raise the wall and check for plumb (straight up and down) with a level, then nail to walls 1 and 2
NOTE: If your building site is a challenging location, sometimes it's helpful to leave the other 2 sheets
of plywood off as long as possible to create easier access to inside the house....like a second doorway.
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1. Attach ledger 2x6 to inside of wall #3 with the bottom edge of the ledger at 7’ above the cement floor (it’s real good to take a chalk line and
mark walls 1,2 and 3 at 7’ above the floor in the bedroom area)
2. Install 2x4x14 blocking on studs of walls 1 and 2 in the bedroom area (see diagram on next page) Secure with 16d nails- 3 in each
3. Install 16’ 2x6 on the blocks across from wall 1 to wall 2 and secure with 16d nails – there will be five of these.
4. Install the 3/4” plywood on top of the ceiling joists. You will need 5 sheets . Secure with 8d nails. Chalk line the nail lines to aid in nailing.
5. Stand on the loft floor when done and celebrate your accomplishment!
Top of Wall #2
Top of Wall #1
Bottom Edge of
Ledger
Is at 7’ above
cement
floor
Install Block of 2x4’s at least 14’ long making sure to
place the top of the block at your 7” mark from the
floor. This will allow the bottom of your 2x6 ceiling joists
to be at 7’ as well (allowing your ceiling to be nailed to
the bottom side! Be sure to secure with 16d nails in the
blocks and in the ceiling joists when installing!
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Notes to remember for next time:
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Loft framing page 2
Decking the Loft with Plywood
1. Begin at the front of the loft. You’ll need to cut the length of
the sheet of plywood so that the far end of the plywood is
centered on the ceiling joist. THE LONGER LENGTH OF THE
PLYWOOD RUNS FROM FRONT TO BACK IN THE HOUSE.
Top View (Looking Down)
of Loft Framing
-Dark Lines indicate 2x6
ceiling joists
2. Nail the deck down with 8d nails
Wall #2
Wall #5 (next step)
Attach 2x6 to
studs on top of the
2x4x14” blocks.
Secure with 16d
nails.
Plywood sheet
This edge centered on Joist->
Wall # 1
2x6 Ledger
On Wall #3
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Wall 5 Framing Details
Locate channel to line up with channel in wall #3!
Use 92 1/4'"
long studs
for wall 5.
Channel
Locate the channel so that it
lines up with the channel
in wall #3. Other wise your room
may be hard to sheetrock!
Frame #5 at 24" ON CENTER
Use 92 1/4" studs
Install wall centered bet ween side walls
Use Concrete nails to secure to the floor-> Get
Tough!
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Wall #6 Measurement /Framing
2x6 Ceiling Joists over bedroom
This wall fits in bet ween the bedrooms and below the
loft floor....you can lay it out and frame it on the
floor of the bedrooms...
Frame it at 2' on center... single top plate is ok...
Correct Measurements make this wall fit the first time...... READ BELOW...
Measure vertically from the top of the 2 x4 blocks
to the bottom of the ceiling joists ...this will give you the length of your studs for wall #6.
Check the measurement at both channels (in wall 3 and 5)
Sometimes they diﬀer...pick the shortest measurement and subtract about 1/8" so that it is easier to install under the ceiling joists
Measure the top and sill plates and subtract 1/8" from that measurement as well.
Install the wall to line up with the channels in walls 3 and 5....
Secure with concrete nails in the floor and 16d nails in the walls..
2 pieces of 2x4 blocks stacked flat on the cement floor
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Notes for next time:
Wall #6 is best framed on the bedroom floor area.
Reminder: put the loft and wall 5 up first to allow
easier installation of ceiling joists !
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Wall 5
Wall 6 lines up with the
channels you installed in wall
3 and 5. This will allow you to
nail the sheetrock in the
corners!
Wall 6
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Subtract
about 1/4”
from the
width to
allow easier
installation .
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Wall #4 Layout
The “rough opening” for the door should be 1.5-2”
wider and 1” higher than the Pre-Hung door outside
measurements… typically is you have a standard prehung 3’ door, a 38.5 width and a 6’10” height is
ample.
The “rough opening” for the winow: Add 1/2” to each
dimension of the window frame …it’s good to doublecheck this with the actual window.
Start your layout at the center
of the wall. Layout 2 ‘ on center.
It’s best to locate the window
right next to the center…it
makes it much simpler on your
layout.
Window Measurements
are from "edge to edge"
Door Opening
Measurements are
from "edge to edge"
Door and Window cutouts can
be done after the wall is up.
<-Plywood sheeting ->
Measure back to
allow for opening
2'
2'
4'
6'
Raise wall with center 2 sheets
of plywood installed…then
overlap the outside sheets onto
walls 1 and2.
6'
Length of Wall is Determined from measuring between walls 1 and 2
27
2and Top Plates
20'
Wall #2
For a strong structure, you'll need to
add a second top plate to the walls.
BEDROOM #1
THE CORNERS WILL OVERLAP THE JOINTS
OF THE EXISTING TOP PLATES-THIS MAKES
A STRONGER CONNECTION .
Wall #4
16'
Wall #3
2. FILL IN THE REST OF THE TOP
PLATES ON WALLS 1 AND 2
WITH 2X4 USING 16d NAILS
NOTED BY
Wall #5
1. CUT 3 16' TOP PLATES AND
INSTALL WITH 16D NAILS
NOTED BY
LOft Floor Ply
Wall #6
BEDROOM #2
10'
Wall #1
28
Wall-framing checklist…
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Walls completed and skinned with plywood?
Anchor bolts in place…not too tight?
Windows cut in?
Second top plate installed and joints are overlapping?
Loft floor nailed off?
Great if all this is ready, have your electrical crew start in setting their boxes and running the wiring
for the electrical circuits…
Notes:
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29
Framing the Roof
30
Framing the Roof
Framing a roofline can seem difficult, confusing and plainly intimidates a lot of casabuilders
We’ve devised a very simple, broken-into-steps strategy to make you a success
There are 3 basic steps to framing the roof
1. Assemble ridgeposts, and ridge: These are just fancy terms for the long center 2x6 that runs the length of the house and
the “thingees” that hold it up…
Ridge Beam: 2 12-foot
2x6’s joined at the center ridge
post-Pick the straightest 2x6s
for this part of your structure!
Ridge Post-one in front,
one in back, and one
In the center of the house
Blocking- between
rafters at wall topplates
Rafters 26 in all,
22 of Style #1
4 of Style #2
2. Install Blocking and the Facia: Blocks close up the holes between
the rafters and facia ties the lower end of the rafters together.
3. Install the Plywood Sheeting on the Roof Structure
Okay, it’s really not that had…LET”S GO! ->
Facia Boards
31
Ridge Post Details
Stand 2x4 up like this in your chop saw to make cuts
Side A
Center is
slightly
taller than
side a and b
Set chop saw 26 degrees to the right
45 5/8"
Center
Square cut both ends
46 1/4"
Side A
Side B
Center
Side B
Set chop saw to 26 degrees to the left
45 5/8"
You will need 3 ridge post assemblies. Use 16d nails . BE SURE TO MAKE THE BOTTOM OF THE POSTS VERY FLAT!
32
Wall 2
Center Line
Center Line
Wall 1
1.
2.
3.
4.
Measure to find the centerline at the front,center and rear of the house
Center your posts as indicated with the angled 2x4's facing walls 1 and 2
Use a level to plumb the posts (level vertically) in both directions Secure by "toe-nailing into the top plate in 4 locations on each post
33
Ridge will stick out past the
outer posts by 24”
Ridge Posts and Ridge Beam
Details
Plumb the posts with a
level…side to side and front to
back….before installing rafters!
Ridge joint is over
the center post!
Ridge Post and Beam
Installation tips
Double layer of
2x6 nailed to the
top plates
…install on both
sides of ridge
over living area.
1. Plumb the posts…this is just
“leveling vertically”. Check
plumb from side to side and front
to back….
2. The two 2x6 ridge beams will
meet over the center post.
3. When Installing the rafters, put
in the rafters at the front, back
and center FIRST…be sure to
keep your posts plumb or your
roof will play funny games with
your plywood!
4. Make a walkway over the living
room area with 2x6’s…double
them up and they won’t sag… do
this on both sides of the ridge to
allow you to install the rafters
safely.
34
9' 8"
Rafter Cutting Details
Rafter Style #1 - You'll need 22 of these..
26.5 deg.
9' 8"
1 9/16""
Rafter Style #2 - You'll need 4 of these..
44"
5 5/8"
92"
5 5/8"
Rafter:
1. Use the 2x6x10" ...avoid using the 12' or longer ones...you'll need these later.
2.Set the chop saw to 26 degrees .
3. Measure from a square end 9' 8" ... (this is the top of the rafter) and cut as indicated above.
4 . Make 22 of Style #1 and 4 of Style #2 --- Use a jigsaw or sawsall to cut the notches in #2
5. Pack-n-stack : Pack the rafters over to the walls of the house and stack them up leaning on the house
so that your rafter crew can easily reach them!
26.5 deg.
Rafter Layout Close-up
Top View of Rafters
35
Rafter Layout Procedure:
1. Mark the topplates as
indicated here… ( everything is
layed out “on—center.
2. Mark the ridge to match your
layouts you put on the
walls.(Start your on-center
layout at the outside edge of
the front and rear posts.)
3. Be sure to keep your posts level
before you nail the rafters into
the top plates.
4. Install the #2-style rafters
first. These are located at the
wall 3 and 4. (the notches
allow for the lookouts to hold
up the “barge-rafters”.
5. Install the center rafters at
the center post next
6. Fill in all the other rafters on
walls 1 and 2. Keep the ridge
as straight as you can…
7. Install eight 2x6 lookouts…
lookout length= 45 3/4”…
these are laid flat in the
notches of the rafters at the
walls 3 and 4.
Now it’s time for blocking…
36
Rafter Blocking. Facia and
Plywood decking details
Wall #1 and 2 block measurements (viewed from above)
1. Cut 4 pieces of 2x6 to 21 5/8” and cut 16 blocks at
22 3/8”
2. Install blocks between the rafters along the top plate
of walls 1 and 2 as shown above …the 4 shorter blocks
go in the outermost location…their purpose is to hold
the rafters straight and to close up the space between
the rafters above the top plate and below the plywood
roof deck…use 16d nails Refer to the pictures at the
beginning of the roofing section.
3. Install the 2x6 facia as shown at the left.. use pieces
that are longer than 8’..it looks better.
4. Install the plywood deck…stagger the seams by 4’…see
previous page for plywood layout. Nail the deck down
with 8d nails 10-12 “ apart. Be sure the ends of the
plywood are on the rafters and over the top of the
facia…
37
Gable End Framing/Close-in
Cut t wo sheets diagonally as shown....put the good side up when cutting each!
4x8 Ply
4x8 Ply
Lay 2 plywood sheets out with the good side up. Mark diagonally
one in each direction. This will give you 4 triangles to cover the front
and back gables on walls 3 and 4.
Window Header 2x4:
Add 1/2" to width of window to
determine length.
r
f te
Ra
Lo
2x4 Cripple Studs- turn sideways
angle on top is 26.5 degrees
R af
ft
te r
W
in
do
w
3rd Top Plate
1. Add a third top plate on walls 3 and 4. This will give you something to
nail the plywood to at the bottom.
2. Cut 2x4's for cripples as shown.. Cut 4 @ 22" and 3 @32" and wedge them
in under the rafter.
3. The cripple next to the window will need precise measurement to allow for
the loft window to be framed with 1/2" extra on the height and width for
the rough opening.
38
Roof-framing checklist…
1. Rafters toe-nailed to top plates?
2. Blocking in place?
3. Plywood deck nailed every 10 inches?
If you’re done, have your roofing crew get set up to install the roofing felt paper …if it’s late in the day
don’t put the felt paper on until the morning…it tends to blow away in the wind and if it gets wet, it’s
very slippery… better to wait until the a.m.
Notes:
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39
Roofing Installation
40
1. INSTALL FELT PAPER: After the plywood deck is secure, install felt paper with
3/8” staples. Start at the bottom edge, and overlap 2-4” on each course of
paper. Completely paper the roof.
2. Install DRIP EDGE FLASHING: use roofing nails to attach the drip edge flashing
over the felt paper. Attach to the perimeter of the roof. Nail on the top only.
Bent lip is down! The nails are galvanized and about 1” long.
3. INSTALL THE STARTER COURSE OF SHINGLES: Take a regular shingle and turn it
so the grooves (tabs) are facing up the slope (with the gravel side up). Nail this at
the bottom edge of the slope. LEAVE AT LEAST A 1/2” OVERHANG ON THE
BOTTOM AND THE SIDES. BUTT THE SHINGLES NEXT TO EACH OTHER…DON’T
OVERLAP THEM SIDE-TO-SIDE! Nail at the tar line in 4 places.
4. FIRST COURSE OF SHINGLES: Install the first course of shingle with the tabs
facing down the slope and nail them directly over the starter course… DON’T PUT
THE JOINTS IN THE SAME PLACE AS THE JOINTS IN THE STARTER COURSE.
5. INSTALL THE 2AND COURSE: Cut a shingle in half (lengthwise) to stagger the
tabs and joints from the first course. The shingle should overlap so that the
bottom edge of the second course is
just above the tabs of the first course.
6. Install Both side of the roof up to the top
7. INSTALL THE CAP SHINGLES: Snap several
Shingles at the tab lines to make 3 equal
Pieces. Turn them sideways and attach to
The ridge (see diagram below)
Roofing Installation
41
Electrical Layout and Wiring
42
Electrical Wiring and Layout
If wiring is a mystery to you,
Here are 3 steps to successfully wire your CASA!
1. Install or “Set” the outlet, switch and fixture boxes and the circuit breaker box * : This is
simply nailing the boxes in the right places onto the framing.
2. Run the wiring or “runnin’ the rope” –Drilling holes in the framing and running the wires
to the boxes that you installed .
3. Hook up the wires to the fixtures, switches and outlets- or “Trim Out”
¿Donde’ esta’ mi electricidad?
Remember:
“I can do all things through
CHRIST who strengthens me” Phillipians 4: 13
* it is highly recommended to install a simple breaker box in the house…we aren’t always supplied with this and it is a
good idea to visit your local Home Depot and purchase a 30amp Square D service disconnect box and 1 15amp breaker.
Be sure that you test fit the breaker…there are a couple different types so get the one that works with the box.
43
44
LOCATE BREAKER BOX 5’ UP AND ON THE
INSIDE OF THIS WALL
45
IMPORTANT!
BE SURE TO LABEL ALL
WIRES AS
INDICATED..USE A
SHARPIE PEN TO MARK
THE WHITE SHEATHING
ON THE WIRES
46
47
Assembled box and
breaker: Mount this
in the bedroom
where your circuits
will begin.
Circuit Breaker Box Parts Identification
Circuit Breaker:
Attach the black wires of your
house wiring to this screw- one
from the front circuit and one
from the back circuit. After it is
wired up, snap it in place
Main Lug: Hook the electric
service hot lead to this…if in
doubt, ask for help hooking it
up. If you want to leave it for
the owner to do, just hook up a
3’ piece of romex and hang it
outside hook the white to the
bus bar.
Available from Home Depot:
Square D brand 30A : this is the
“QO” style box and 15 Amp
breaker.
It costs about $12.
Cover Plate
With square
cut-out for
the breaker.
Neutral/ Ground buss bar.
White and bare wires will
hook up here. Make sure no
black wires touch this …
USE ONLY A 15 AMP BREAKER ! ANYTHING
LARGER MAY ALLOW WIRES TO OVERHEAT!
48
IMPORTANT!
WHEN HOOKING UP THE WIRES TO
PLUG RECEPTACLES, BE SURE TO
ATTACH THE BLACK WIRES TO
THE BRASS-COLORED SCREWS
AND THE WHITE WIRES TO THE
SILVER-COLORED SCREWS!
49
50
BE SURE.... BE SURE... BE SURE....
BE SURE...
TO HOOK
THE BLACK WIRES TO THE BRASSCOLORED SCREWS ON THE OUTLETS!
THE WHITE WIRES GO ONLY ON THE
SILVER-COLORED SCREWS...BARE
WIRES GO ON THE GREEN SCREW.
If the switches do not
have a green grounding
screw, clip out the bare
copper wire from the electrical
box.
51
52
53
Sheetrock Installation
54
Sheetrock Installation
Thinning your MUD
The sheetrock compound or “MUD” comes in boxes lined
with plastic bags. This stuff needs to be thinned out with
water before you start.
1. Dump the contents of the box into a 5-gallon
bucket…This is really fun…especially getting the
last little bit out of that bag…
2. Pour about 1 cup of water on top of the mud in
the bucket.
3. Take your “potato masher” and slowly begin to
work the water into the mud. This takes a little
bit…You’ll notice that the mud loses it’s gloss and
gets a little “flat” …that’s when it’s ready…
If you put too much water in it, your in trouble…so
err on the thick side…
You don’t want it so thin that it slops off your
trowels…
REMEMBER WE ONLY GET 2 BOXES OF THIS
STUFF PER HOUSE…some people run out because
they put it on too heavy…discourage your team
from having mud wars…at least until the taping is
done….
Sheetrock Installation:
1. Start in the bedrooms and install
the ceilings first. Try to keep your
joints smaller than 1/4”.
2. Hang the sheetrock on the walls of
the bedrooms next and work your
way out to the living area.
3. Install sheetrock strips at the
windows and the door jambs of the
bedrooms.
4. Install sheetrock metal corners to
the windows, and the door openings.
5. Mud the bedrooms first and then
the main room.
6. Nail Sheetrock every 10-12”-be
careful not to break the edges!
55
Cutting Sheetrock
Measure for your cuts
Cut with a sheetrock knife
For anything less than a full sheet, it’s a good idea to
subtract about 1/4” from each measurement…this will
give you extra room to fit your panel in without a lot of
sanding, rasping, or recutting…a 1/8” gap around the
panel is acceptable and easy to mud over.
Snap the panel
Simply bend the panel at the line and the sheetrock will
break along the line that you cut…
Then just take your knife and cut the backing paper on
the backside of the break…
Cut thru the paper front and slightly into the core of the
sheetrock panel…one pass will do it!
Use a sharp blade…
Clean up edges
If you need to remove any chunks from the edges, use a
block with sandpaper or a sure-form rasp to lightly clean
up the edges…don’t go too far or you’ll get a lot of paper
curled up on the edge and it can be a problem to tape and
mud it later….
56
Nailing Sheetrock..
Be sure to set the nail deep enough to make a dimple in
the sheetrock BUT don’t break through the paper…this
makes sure the panel in tight and the trowel can glide
over the top of the nail without hitting it!
Metal Sheetrock Corners
Metal corners are attached to the doorways into the
bedrooms and around the window openings to protect
the sheetrock from breaking away if it gets hit…
Attach with sheetrock nails every 5-6 inches
Sheetrock Install Tips
Installing sheetrock on ceilings
Install the ceiling panel perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
Try to keep the joints as tight as possible…
Get two people to help hold while one person nails.
Dimple your nails to make sure it’s tight…careful not to
crush the cut edges when you nail them!
Cut the metal corners
Cut the metal corners with tin snips…
When nailing, be careful not to hit the corner of the
metal…if it gets dented , it will be more difficult to mud!
Cover the metal in a heavy,even coat of mud…remove
any excess with your trowel
57
Taping Sheetrock Seams
First…
Cover up the nails in the center of the sheetrock panels with
a coat or two of mud…keep your trowel flat on the wall…
Third…
Apply a strip of paper tape in the coat of mud and with a
light coat of mud on your trowel and a little pressure,
carefully embed the tape in a the second coat of mud…
Second…
Apply a medium coat of mud to the nailed seams
..hold your trowel at a 30-40 degree angle from the
wall…
Fourth…
Go back over your seam with medium pressure and
remove the excess compound…just scrape it off the
trowel into your tray..
58
Taping Corners
Important:
First…
Be sure to keep your trowel clean often…wipe off
excess mud…be sure to scrape off dried mud
often…don’t put the dried back in the pan…if you can
find a rag and water wipe the tray and trowel clean
periodically
Second…
Fold a piece of paper tape along the crease in the center
and apply it gently into the mud.
Apply a medium coat of mud to both side of your corner..
Third…
Trowel the tape smoothly into the coat of mud..go back
over to remove any excess mud…be careful not to pull the
paper out of the mud!
59
Door Installation
60
61
62
63
64
Exterior Trim Details
1. 1x4 is used for trim…this should be painted on 3 sides before
installation.
2. Attach horizontally on walls 3 and 4 between the gable triangle and
the 8’ high siding first.
3. Attach at the corners as shown below
4. Attach at each veritical seam in the plywood to cover the seam.
5. Wrap the door and the windows as shown…
65
Loft Ladder
9’ 6”
66
Section Index
Site Leader Notes
Walls, Loft Framing
Roof Framing
Roofing Material Installation
Electrical Section
Sheetrock Install
Door , Exterior trim and Ladder
3
11
29
39
41
53
59