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How to build a Cape Cod / Adirondack Chair
How to build a Cape Cod Chair
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Page Contents
Cover: Page contents and Read Me notes
Page 6: Shaping the wood by pattern printout
Page 1: Intro, Description, Measurements
Page 7: Shaping and cutting the pieces
Page 2: Materials & cutting list
Page 8: Assembling the seat unit
Page 3: The side, front, & top elevation plans
Page 9: Assembling the arm and leg unit
Page 4: Shaping the wood by measurements
Page 10: Joining it all together
Page 5: Shaping the wood by grid plan
Page 11: The final touches
Read Me notes
Help and back-up.
Help or back-up regarding this project is limited to any help files or back-up pages found in the appropriate
pages in the buildeazy website.
User input is always a good source of help. User comments/photos regarding this project can be seen at
http://www.buildeazy.com/capecod-12.html .
A helpful video can be seen at YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOiADkzoYF0
Any new help-files or user input will be posted on that page or directed to, from that page. Such files or
pages are updated and added to as need be.
Any content (if any) that is published, will be at the discretion of the webmaster.
Disclaimer
Although all due care is taken, no responsibility is accepted by Buildeazy for any wrongful information,
omissions, or any other irregularities regarding any Buildeazy plan-set or Buildeazy article. This project is
to be undertaken at the users own risk.
Buildeazy accepts no responsibility for any injury to any person occurring while using or undertaking this or
any other project, either directly or indirectly.
Copyright Buildeazy.Com Ltd. All rights reserved
How to build a Cape Cod / Adirondack Chair
See this page at http://www.buildeazy.com/capecod-1.html
How to build a Cape Cod / Adirondack Chair
by Les Kenny
Introduction
This style of chair is pretty much universal, and the
chair goes by various names depending on the
region. 'Adirondack' chair, 'Cape Cod' chair, and
the 'Muskoka' chair appear to be most common,
but there are more.
Description
Our chair is bigger than most similar designs more substantial and a bit more laidback (by that
we mean the angle of the back recline). Furniture
these days tends to be a bit more flimsy than that
of yesteryear. This chair leans more towards the 'old' rather than the 'new'.
It's a chair you can sit comfortably in, kick back and relax.
Measurements
The dimensions given in this project are in both imperial (inches) and metric (mm).
Throughout the script, the imperial measurements are given first, followed by the metric
measurements in brackets ( ).
For example: 2" x 4" (100mm x 50mm).
Note that most countries that use the imperial system generally call the smaller numeral first, for
example: 2" x 4" (2 inches by 4 inches). Most countries that use the metric system generally call
the bigger numeral first, for example: 100mm x 50mm (100 millimetres by 50 millimetres).
For rounding-off purposes, the imperial sizes in this project are not an exact match to the
corresponding metric sizes.
In fact, a structure built using the imperial measurements (inches) will be approximately 1.6%
larger than the same structure using the metric (mm) measurements - not really worth worrying
about.
The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are
more suited to Australasia and other countries.
The size (width and thickness) of the wood used in this project is the 'actual' (true) size.
That is, the size of the wood after it has been dressed (surfaced, planed and/or seasoned). For
example: 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" is ex 2" x 6", and the metric equivalent 140mm x 45mm is ex 150mm x
50mm.
Page 1
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How to build a Cape Cod / Adirondack Chair
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How to build a Cape Cod / Adirondack Chair
Structure
All the wood used for this project is 3/4" (19mm) thick, with the exception of the arms which are 1
1/2" (45mm) thick. That is to give a bit of meat to the arms and something substantial to screw the
upper back support to.
What you will need
For the seat sides, legs, back slats, upper back support, and the seat slats you will need...
38ft (11.5m) of 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) wood, allowing for a little bit of wastage.
For the front and rear spacers, lower back support, and arm braces you will need...
8ft (2.4m) of 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) wood, allowing for a little bit of wastage.
For the arms you will need...
64" (1600mm) of 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm) wood.
Note: When cutting, cut the longer pieces first to minimize wastage.
You will also need...
- Around 90 exterior-type 1 1/2" (38mm) long screws.
- Four 3/8" x 2" (10mm x 50mm) galvanized carriage bolts and washers.
- Exterior-type glue
The cutting list
ITEM ID
DESCRIPTION
STOCK SIZE
LENGTH
NO. REG'D
[a]
seat sides
3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm)
39" (975mm)
2
[b]
rear spacer
3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm)
23 1/4" (580mm)
1
[c]
legs
3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm)
22 3/4" (570mm)
2
[d]
lower back support
3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm)
24 3/4" (620mm)
1
[e]
back slats
3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm)
38" (950mm)
4
[f]
arm braces
3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm)
7" (175mm)
2
[g]
seat slats
3/4" x 1 3/8" (35mm x 20mm)
24 3/4" (620mm)
16
Rip (cut lengthways) from 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x
20mm) stock
[h]
arms
1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm)
32" (800mm)
2
[i]
upper back support
3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm)
30 3/4" (770mm)
1
[j]
front spacer
3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm)
24 3/4" (620mm)
1
Page 2
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How to build a Cape Cod / Adirondack Chair
Elevation plans
Page 3
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Shaping the wood. Option 1 - By measurements
Page 4
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Shaping the wood. Option 2 - By grid plan
The grid plans below show the drawings scaled in a grid where the line spacings represent
1" (25mm).
To create a full size pattern, draw a grid onto cardboard with line spacings 1" (25mm) true size.
Then copy (draw) the shapes below, onto the cardboard using the grid lines as reference points.
Cut the patterns out of the cardboard and use them to mark the chair pieces.
Page 5
Copyright Buildeazy.Com Ltd. All rights reserved
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See this page at http://www.buildeazy.com/capecod-6.html
Shaping the wood. Option 3 - By pattern printout
This option involves downloading a PDF file containing a full size pattern for every piece of wood
that requires shaping.
Simply download the pattern file to your computer and have it printed out in full size.
The file is a contribution from one of our readers.
Quote: "As a thank you for the free plans you provided, I'd like to GIVE YOU a PDF file with the
drawings. Users can email them to any copy, office supply or blueprint store, and get an 'E-sized'
drawing (34" x 44")".
We know this works well because we tried it ourselves.
How to get the file
Go to http://www.buildeazy.com/capecod-6.html.
You will be able to download the file from that page online.
What then?
You can email the file to any copy, office supply or
blueprint store, and get an "E-sized" drawing 34" x
44" (864mm x 1118mm)
Or...
You can put the file on a common portable data storage
unit such as a USB stick and take it to the printers.
Note: E-size is a US standard 34" x 44". The metric
equivalent is 864mm x 1118mm.
The point equivalent is 2448 x 3168.
Most blueprint stores would understand those
measurements.
Alternatively
You can print the file yourself onto standard A4 paper.
How? On the printer setting page select 'tile large
pages' (if applicable) and ensure scale is set to '100%'.
It should print out the full size pattern on tiles (A4
pages). In all, about 20 pages.
It will then just be a matter of joining the pages together in sequence while gluing them onto a big
piece of cardboard.
Once dry, you can then cut out the full size patterns, and they are ready to use.
Page 6
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Step 1. Cut the pieces to length
Take note, the two arm pieces are thicker than the other pieces.
Altogether there are three different stock sizes required.
Cut all the pieces to the lengths given below or refer to the cutting list on page 2.
From 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) stock...
Cut two pieces at 39" (975mm) long, for the seat sides.
Cut two pieces at 22 3/4" (570mm) long, for the legs.
Cut four pieces at 38" (950mm) long, for the back slats.
Cut four pieces at 24 3/4" (620mm) long, for the seat slats, and then rip each piece into four equal
strips making 16 slats.
Cut one piece at 30 3/4" (770mm) long, for the upper back support.
From 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) stock...
Cut one piece at 23 1/4" (580mm) long, for the rear spacer.
Cut one piece at 24 3/4" (620mm) long, for the lower back support.
Cut two pieces at 7" (175mm) long, for the arm braces.
Cut one piece at 24 3/4" (620mm) long, for the front spacer.
From 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm) stock...
Cut two pieces at 32" (800mm) long, for the arms.
Step 2. Make the patterns and/or mark the wood
Some of the pieces will need to be shaped,
therefore the shape must first be drawn on wood.
You can either make a pattern and trace the lines
onto the wood that needs shaping, or mark directly
on the wood by measuring from a plan drawing.
In this documentation there are three options on
how to do this.
Option 1 - Measuring off a plan (see page four).
Option 2 - Making a pattern using a grid (see page
five).
Option 3 - Printing out a full size plan (see page
six).
Step 3. Cut the shapes
Once all the shapes have been marked onto their
respective pieces of wood, either by tracing
around a pattern or by measuring from a plan drawing, cut them out using a tool such as a jig-saw
to cut any curved lines.
Page 7
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Step 4. Fix the lower back support to
the seat sides
Place the two seat sides (a) on an even work
surface (saw-horses, etc.) and fix the lower back
support in place with glue and wood screws.
Note: For every joining, ensure that there is ample
glue and pre-drill all screw holes in the covering
piece of wood.
Step 5. Fix the rear spacer
Fix the first seat slat (g) in place (just to keep the
seat sides parallel) and then turn the unit on its
side and fix the rear spacer (b) in place.
Pre-drill the screw holes in the seat-slat (one each
end) and also through the seat-sides (two each
side, where the rear spacer lines up) and allow
ample glue.
Step 6. Fix some of the seat slats
Turn the unit upright.
The first seat slat (g) is already fixed in place.
Add another 10 seat slats, one next to the other, in
the same manner i.e., pre-drill, glue and screw.
Note: Do not fix the rest (the last 5) just yet, we will
do that at a later stage.
Step 7. Join together a leg, brace
and arm
Join together the legs (c), braces (f) and arms (h)
in the following order.
1.) Glue and screw the braces to the arms. Refer
to the 'side elevation plan' on page 3 for
placement. Screw through the arm (pre-drill first)
into the brace.
2.) Lay the arms upside down and centralize the leg and brace combinations (also upside down)
on the arms, 2" (50mm) in from the front.
Page 8
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Step 8. Toe-nail the legs to the arms
Once the legs and braces are positioned correctly
on the arms (currently in upside-down mode, see
step 7.), they can then be secured.
Do this by gluing and toe-nailing (skew, angle
nailing) through the sides of the braces and legs
into the arms.
Pre-drill the nail holes in the braces and legs to
avoid splitting.
Step 9. Align the two arms with oneanother
Lay the two leg, brace and arm combinations
upside-down on a flat surface.
Space them apart, parallel. The distance between
the legs (currently in upright position) should be 24
3/4" (620mm), which is the length of the front
spacer (j).
Lay and fix (temporarily) a couple of strips of wood across the arms to hold them (the arms)
parallel in position, just until the upper back support (i) and the front spacer (j) have been added.
Step 10. Add the upper back support
and the front spacer
Add the upper back support (i) and the front
spacer (j).
Refer to the 'side elevation plan' on page 3 for
positioning.
You will probably need a hand to hold them in
place while fixing.
Step 11. Prepare the seat
Now is probably a good time to give the seat slats
a good sanding to make sure the seat profile is
nice and rounded.
Not all the seat slats are fixed in place at this
stage.
This is to allow room for the back slats to be fixed
without too much problem.
Page 9
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How to build a Cape Cod / Adirondack Chair
Step 12. Join the arm assembly to
the seat assembly
Place the arm/leg assembly on even surface and
prop it up so that the arms are parallel with the
even surface.
Then slip the seat assembly in between the legs,
so that it sits on the front spacer (j).
Position the seat assembly in relation to the
arm/leg assembly as shown in the 'side elevation
plan' on page 3.
Then firmly clamp the legs to the seat sides.
Step 13. Tilt the chair in preparation
for the back slats
At this point everything should be in its rightful
position, i.e., the arms should be parallel with the
surface and the leg should be 29" (725mm) from
the very back of the seat sides as shown in the
'side elevation plan' on page 3
Now tilt the chair back and prop it slightly off the
ground in order to place and fix the back slats with ease.
Step 14. Fix the back slats
Put glue along the shaped edges of both the upper
back support (i) and the lower back support (d).
Lay the two middle back slats (e) in place. The
positioning will be obvious. Make the bottom of the
back slats flush with the bottom of the lower back
support.
Pre-drill the screw holes and screw the back slats
to the back supports.
Then place the two side back slats one each side of the middle back slats, and screw them in
place.
Page 10
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Step 15. Secure the legs/seat sides
Now you can permanently fix the legs to the seat
sides.
Drill two 3/8" (10mm) diameter bolt holes through
each leg and seat side.
Refer to the 'side elevation plan' on page 3 for
positioning.
Insert 3/8" x 2" (10mm x 50mm) galvanized
carriage bolts with washers into the holes and tighten them.
Step 16. The remaining seat slats
You can now add the rest of the seat slats.
Don't forget to use ample glue first, and pre-drill
the screw holes in the seat slats.
The edge of the last seat slat may need a bit of
shaping to fit it neatly against the back slats.
Each seat slat only requires one screw at each
end. That along with the glue is sufficient.
Step 17. Final tough-up
Just the final touch-up now.
A bit of a sand here and there.
Paint?
Whatever you like. Limited only by your
imagination. A white chair would pretty much fit
anywhere, whereas a specialist color might be just
the trick to suit a particular surrounding.
Step 18. Done!
Well, that's about it: A big, strong, and
comfortable, 'Cape Cod', aka 'Adirondack', aka
'Muskoka' chair.
Happy relaxing!
Author: Les Kenny Editor: Maree Anderson
Page 11
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